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COSTU¥Ilis WORN by WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON and HIS ASSOCIATES ABOUT the YEAR 1811 a Master's Thesis Presented to the Faculty Of

COSTU¥Ilis WORN by WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON and HIS ASSOCIATES ABOUT the YEAR 1811 a Master's Thesis Presented to the Faculty Of

worn by and his associates about the year 1811

Item Type Thesis

Authors Parker, Georgia Holt

Download date 10/10/2021 07:04:38

Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/10484/5105 ,-.------­

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COSTU¥iliS WORN BY WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON AND HIS ASSOCIATES ABOUT THE YEAR 1811

A Master's Thesis Presented to the Faculty of the School of Graduate Studies State College Terre Haute, Indiana

In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Master of Arts Degree

by Georgia Holt Parker August, 1963

" , :.' THESIS APPROVAL SHEET

The thesis of Georgia Holt Parker, contribution of the School of Graduate Studies, Indiana State College, Series I, Number 832, under the title, "Costumes Worn by William Henry Harrison and His Associates About the Year l8ll,ff is approved as counting toward the completion of the Master of Arts Degree in the amount of eight quarter hours of graduate credit.

APPROVAL OF THESIS CO~WITTTEE: ~~/~. ~~)L~2r-?~d/-_.J Signature of Committee Member t~~ (Signature of Committee Member)

3 &u-2/'ftPDate

APPROVAL FOR SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES:

~~.~~ ~2q) / 90 3 (Dean of Gradu e Studies) (Date)

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;: i ..;) AC KNOWT..ED GlVIENTS

The building of this thesis has been in a large meas­ ure the result of the interest and kindness of many friends who have contributed advice, criticisms, or special knowl­ edge; or who have graciously permitted the examination or reproduction of objects in their collections. The author wishes to gratefully acknowledge her thanks and appreciation to Mr. John G. Biel, Chairman of the William Henry Harrison Trail Commission; Miss Caroline Dunn, Librarian of the William Henry Smith Memorial Library; Miss Alameda McCollough and the Tippecanoe County Historical Association; lf~s. H. T. Watts and the Francis Vigo Chapter; Daughters of the American Revolution of Vincennes; and Miss Juliet Peddle of Terre Haute. The author is indebted to Frederick P. Todd, Di~ector of West Point Museum, for the photograph of a painting by Hugh C. McBarron, Jr., and to the Frick Art Reference Library for the photograph of a portrait of William Henry Harrison (Number 2332) by Rembrandt Peale. Particular tribute is expressed to Harold L. Peterson, Staff Historian, Department of the Interior; W. Ogden IvIcCagg of the Company of Military Collectors and Historians; and to Colonel D. G. Gilbert, Historical Services Division, Depart­ ment of the Army, for valuable information concerning source material. iv - a~so The author gratefully acknowledges the kindness. and co-operation of Dr. Elmer J. Clark, Director of Graduate Studies, and the thesis co@nittee--Dr. Elmer J. Porter, Mrs. Dorthea Tucker Swander, and Dr. Donald B. Scheick.

G.H.P. TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGEI I. THE PROBLEM AND ITS SETTING ••••••••• •• 1 II. GENERAL HARRISON IN THE WABASH COUNTRY ••• •• 6 The Settlers ••••••••••••.•• •• 7 Industry ...... 8'

1'1 ews •• ••••••••••••••• •• 8 Indian Affairs ••••••••••••• • •• 9 Tecumseh and the Prophet ••• •••.• •• 9 Preparing for war • .' •••••••••• •• 11 The march •••••••••••••• •• 12 The •••••••• •• 13 Continued warfare and the death of Tecumseh. 14 III. l~LILITARY COSTUlV"lE IN THE WABASH COUNTRY ABOUT THE YEAR 1811 •••••••••••• •• 15 of Governor William Henry Harrison, Commander in Chief •• ••••••••• •• . 16 Rembrandt Peale portrait •• •••••• •• 16 Old print of Harrison • •• ••••••• •• 19 Costume of Harrison on the march •••• •• 19 ...... 22 Sherry-vallies •• ••••••.•.•• •• 23 General Staff ••••••••••••••• •• 24 Social full •••••••• •• 25 Costume of the Militia •••••••••• •• 30 vi CHAPTER PAGE of the 1811 period ••••••••••• 33 Major Daviess' Squadron ••••••••••• 33 Captain nSpencer's Yellow ." ••• 41 •••••••••••• •• 41 Costume of the Infantry •••••••••••• 43 Military Headdress •••••••••••••• ,6 Relics--Implements of 1jiarfare •• •• ••• 60 Dirk •. .' •....•...... •. 60 Sabre ...... 60 Pistol barrel •.••••• ••• 60 IV. CIVILIAN COSTU~ffiS IN THE WABASH COUNTRY ABOUT THE YEAR 1811 •••••••••••••• 67 Costume of the Men •• · ...... 69 or hunting shirt ...... 69 and ...... 76 •••••• ·...... 76 Other garments ••• · ...... 77 Accessories ••••• · ...... 78 Costume of a Shaker ••••••••••••• 78 Costume of the Immigrant or Visitor •••••• 79. Coat •...... • 82 ••••••••••••• •• 82 1JJaistcoat •••• •• •••••••• •• 8, ••••••••••••• 8,

viii CHAPTER PAGE • ...... 114 Redingote •.•••••••• •. •• 114 Riding habit •.•• •.•••.•••.•• 114 Costume of the Children ••.• •••• 117 Costume of the Immigrant or Visiting Child 118 V. SU~~ARY AND CONCLUSIONS. • •• • •• 122 Summary • . . . . . ·...... 122 Conclusions . .. ·...... 123 BIBLIOGRAPHY •• •••• ·...... 124 APPSNDIXES: •••••••••• · .. 132 A. Knife Blades and Buttons ••• ·...... 133 B. Inventions ••• ••••••• ·...... 137 C. Tanning Leather. • •••• · . .. . 138 LIST OF PLATES· PLATE PAGE 1. General William Henry Harrison,

:1 Commander in Chief ••••••••••••• •• 17 ii 2. General ~lilliam Henry Harrison •••••••• •• 20 Ii IiI: 3. General Staff: Major General, Brigadier General,

!ii Aide-de-Camp, Colonel of Infantry •• ••• •• 26 4. United States Army Officers in Social Full Dress Circa 1808-1812: General Officer, Artillery Field Officer' •••••••• 28 5. Military Coat: Front View. ••. •••. .. 34 6. Military Coat·: Back View •••••••••• •• 36 7. Major Joseph H. Daviess' Squadron, Light Dragoons, Indiana Militia, 1811 • •• 39 8. The Hunting or Rifle Shirt •••••• •• '44 9. Enlisted Man of Infantry ••••••••••• •• 48 10. Captain of Infantry ••••••••••••• 51 11. Infantry Captain in Social Full Dress, Circa 1808-1812 •••••••••• •• 54 12. United States Military Headdress, 1812-1815 • •• 57 13. Dirk, Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe ••• •• 61 14. Sabre, (section) Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe 63 15. Barrel of a Pistol: Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe •••••••••••• •• 65 16. A French Trader ••••••••••••••• •• 70 x PLATE PAGE 17. Fur Trapper ••••••••••••••••• 72 1$. A Hunter •• ...... · . 74 19. Costume of a Young Shaker ...... · . 80 20. H~nmer Claw Tails ...... •• 86 21. Coat with Lapels, and in One •• 8$ 22. Footwear: Pump with Buckle, -Escarpin, 11 I' f! LJlilitary Napoleon and ~'lellington , il Hussar, or Souvaroff Boot, f.i I I'lan's Blue Gaiter Over T.rousers and Pump . . · . 90 23. ...... · . 95 24. Country Costume ...... ••• • •• 98 25. ••• ...... 103 26. Classical Dress with Frills ...... 105 27. Headdress ...... 109 28. Pelisse ...... 115 29. Costume of the Immigrant or Visiting Child • • . . 119 30. Knife Blades and Buttons ...... • • 134 ~ ! j CHAPTER I " THE PROBLEM AND ITS SETTING Ii I ; The purpose of this study is to present a careful and I detailed description of the various articles of costume and their related accessories worn by General William Henry Harrison and his associates about the year 1811, in the Wabash country. In 1958 the created the William Henry Harrison Trail Commission. Part of the duties and activities of the Commission are to establish in detail all that is of significance in any way to General Harrison and his soldiers before, during, and after their march from Vincennes to the Battle Ground at Tippecanoe in the. fall of 1811.1 This study of historic costume, both military and civilian, that was worn in the vicinity of Vincennes and other parts of the Wabash country during the 1811 period may be of some value to the Harrison Trail Commission in their work. It may also be of value to the stage manager, pageant directors, or the costume designer of early Indiana costume. William Henry Harrison, first governor of , was also made Commander in Chief of the territory.

lLetter from John G. Biel, Chairman of the William Henry Harrison Trail Commission, to Professor Elmer J. Porter, Chairman of the Art Department, Indiana State College, dated October 21, 1958. 2 His associates were his General Staff, the Indiana Militia,. the Volunteers, the Fourth United States Infantry from Pennsylvania, a Company of Riflemen of the Rifle Regi­ ment, United States Army, and the Indian scouts. Other asso­ ciates were the civilians--the traders and trappers, the natives of Vincennes and surrounding territory, the occa­ sional visitors, and the immigrants who came to make their homes in the new territory. The second chapter of the study deals with the histor­ ical setting of the 1811 period; the third chapter, military costume in the Wabash country; the fourth chapter, civilian costume, also of the same period and locality. The fifth . chapter contains the summary and conclusions. American military art began with a series of prints in the United States Military Magazine between 1839 and 1$41; other examples followed. Howard Pyle and Harry A. Ogden combined the arts of two mid-nineteenth century artists with their own and undertook to draw the soldier as he had for­ merly existed. In 1$86 the Quartermaster General issued - Ogden's plates covering the of the army since 1774, which was the first book of its kind in this country. Recently the work of Hugh Charles McBarron, Jr., a splendid artist, has appeared in several journals. McBarron criti­ cized the Ogden plates of the by saying that 3 nthe uniforms he drew did not exist,'n2 but he did recognize the fact that Ogden was the first to attempt original research in the field, probably because of the scarcity of source material. In doing research on his own on American military dress, McBarron also noted that: The existing official regulations are disappointingly meager and lacking in detail, pictorial evidence is almost entirely absent, and physical items in museums are usually mislabelled if exhibited at all.3 Many pictures have been painted or printed of the Revolutionary War costumes, likewise of the Civil War, but comparatively few can be found showing costumes worn just before, during, or immediately after the Battle of Tippe­ canoe. In one of the existing reproductions,4 the uniform shown is not the uniform specified by Major Daviess that he wanted his Light Dragoons to wear. 5

2Hugh C. McBarron, uAmerican Military Dress in the War of lS12," The Journal of the American Militarr Institute III (Fall, 1939T;" 191. -- 3Ibid., p. 192. 4Lovie, nCharge of Col. Daveiss 4Daviesil at Tippe­ canoe,u The Sundar (Evansville, Indiana Look, February 1, 1959, p.9:' 5Logan Esarey (ed.), Harrison's Messages and Letters, lSOO-~ (Vol. I, 2 vols.; Vol. VII·of Indiana Historical Collections, 40 vols.; Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Bureau, 1922), p. 562 •. 4 - 6 In another reproduction, Governor Harrison and some , of the other men are wearing with buff colored lapels. As early as 1799-1802, the issued by the government for the uniform of the Commander in Chief and all general officers, specified the "coat to be without lapels,,,7 single-breasted, with facings of buff. The three-cornered of the Revolution, also shown in the above-named print, disappeared in 1802, when all the officers began wearing the chapeaux , and continued to do so until much later than the Battle of Tippecanoe. These conclusions have been reached, only, after a careful study of available evidence. The general procedure was historical, using a variety of sources. The background of history studied began pri­ marily with the appointment of William Henry Harrison in 1800, and ended with the death of Tecumseh in the Battle of the Thames in 1813. Material found in published letters and diaries was useful; the mock battle and the pageant, tfTippe­ canoe," at Battle Ground in August, 1961, provided a natural setting. Other sources were artistic productions (or repro--

6Lovie, "Governor Harrison and Tecumseh at Vincennes in l8l0,tf --loco cit. 7Quartermaster's Department, United States Army, Uni­ forms of the Army of the United States, Plates by H. A. Ogden TNew York: Published by the Quarter master General, 1886), p. 4. 5 ductions): historical paintings, portraits, and portrait sculpture. A few relics of and arms were available. Records, books, and publications concerning both military and civilian costume provided information that was helpful. Preceding the detailed description of costumes in the third and fourth chapters, an effort has been made to show the relation of that costume to the life of the people who produced and wore it. The descriptive account of costumes is supplemented by two types of illustrations: first, the full-page color plates which are copies of reproductions from contemporary sources; second, line-drawings, showing the shape and character of various garments and certain implements of warfare. Relics that were available were used for the drawings. CHAPTER II .

GENERAL HARRISON IN THE WABASH COUNTRY

William Henry Harrison, first Territory, arrived in Vincennes, its first capital, early in 1801. Mrs. Harrison, the daughter of a Kentucky judge, fol­ lowed him in May of the same year•. Harrison made plans for their home, which was finished two years later--a mansion in a grove of walnut trees above the Wabash--dominating the three hundred acres of his Grous~land estate. In the council room and under the walnut trees outside, Harrison met the chiefs of all the western country. The governor was the most powerful official in the territory. He made nearly all appointments, not only to local , but also to the militia, and was superintendent of Indian affairs. On July 4, 1800, Indiana Territory came into existence by act of the United States Congress. It consisted of about four-fifths of the . Before 1810, however, Indiana was given its present boundaries with the exception of a ten-mile strip along the northern border which was not ~ added until 1816. For territorial secretary, President John Adams chose John Gibson, and for judges, William Clark, Henry Vanderberg, and John Griffin. 7 Thus, a new unit of government was formed and came into prominence. The name, Indiana, meaning "Indian land, or place of Indians,,,l was fittingly applied to this vast country, which, at that time, was owned and occupied almost entirely by Indians. Until 1801, only a few small areas, reserved by the Treaty of Greenville in 1795, were opened to white settlement.

THE SETTLERS

Most of the early settlements in Indiana were founded by the French as they explored the various waterways to the shores of the Great Lakes. The census of 1810 gave the whole territory a popula­ tion of 24,520 persons, of whom 237 were slaves. Most of the immigrants were native born Americans. Many of them came from North Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, ,and Kentucky. Others came from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York, but very few came from New England or Europe. Along the larger roads certain houses with accommoda- , tiona for travelers came to be known as taverns. The traveler 'I ; ,I was welcomed into the big house and given 'a seat before the ~ roaring fire. A boy removed his muddy boots and leggings,

lRoaa F. Lockridge, The SlOss of Indiana (second edi­ tion; Oklahoma City: Harlow Pub is ing Corporation, 1957), p. 189. 8 giving the guest a light pair of . Dry clothing was furnished, also a steaming hot supper and a warm feather bed. The following morning when the ttaveler arose, his boots and leggings had been cleaned and his greatcoat was warm and dry, ready for his journey.

INDUSTRY

The census taken in 1810 showed a beginning in indus­ try with 1 cotton mill, 1,380 spinning wheels, 1,256 looms, and 18 tanneries to help furnish the settlers with clothing. Also made in the homes were 54,977 yards of cotton cloth, 92,740 yards of flaxen goods, 61,503 yards of mixed, and 19,378 yards of woolen goods. It was not until about 1820 that imported goods began to appear.

NEWS

News came to Vincennes once a week by a post rider from Lexington, Kentucky. Other news came from traders poling up the Wabash, from Indians wandering in from the woods and prairies, from new settlers along the Ohio, and from occasional visitors on official or unofficial errands to the executive chamber at Grouseland. From hunters, traders, and wandering Indians, Harrison heard tales of two Shawnee brothers who were urging all tribesmen to unite against the white man. 9 INDIAN AFFAIRS

Tecumseh and the Prophet. Tecumseh, or Falling Star, and his brother Tenskwatawa, later called the Prophet, were born in Ohio in 1768. Tecumseh was known among the Indians as a fearless, upright, and generous man. The Prophet, "B.lCcording to one account ••• was noted in his earlier years for stupidity and intoxication.,,2 Later he quit drink­ ing whisky and became a spiritual leader of the tribesmen, preaching against drunkenness, witches, and the white man's civilization. The fame of the Prophet spread over the entire North­ west. Hundreds of Indians came on pilgrimages to see and hear this "savior of the people." Tecumseh took full advan­ tage of the popularity of his brother, talking with visiting tribesmen, and winning many of the chiefs to his own views. Havighurst commented on the Prophet's appearance and dress: The Prophet was a striking figure, commanding his listeners. ••• He wore the old wild Indian dress--a Cherokee , , leggings, of deerskin. Firelight played on his craggy face, on his silver nose­

1 and ear-rings.3 I I I :1 2Frederick Webb Hodge, Handbook of American Indians North of Mexico, Smithsonian Institution Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 30. In two ~arts, Part II (Washington: Government Printing , 19l01,p. 714• . 'Walter Havighurst, Wilderness for Sale (In American Procession Series, ed. Henry G. Alsberg; New York: Hastings House Publishers, 1956), p. 24. '''..------

10 The Shawnees had migrated westward from Ohio and set­ tled on the headwaters of White River where Anderson is now. The Prophet and his followers were driven from Andersontown so came farther west and settled on the north side of the Wabash (above the present location of Lafayette) near the mouth of the Tippecanoe. This village, known as Prophets­ town, soon became a worse nuisance than Andersontown had been, for small companies of Indians "harassed the frontier, stealing horses and destroying property.,,4 Both Tecumseh and the Prophet were ardent opponents of the advance of the white man and denied the right of the government to purchase land from any single tribe; they said that it belonged to all the tribes in common. The govern­ ment refused to recognize this principle, and Governor Har­ rison, through a series of treaties between 1801 and 1809, gained approximately the southern third of the present states of Indiana and Illinois. Indirectly, the last ces­ sion, which was at Fort vfayne, September 30, 1809, "amounted to a declaration of war between Tecumseh and Harrison.n5 There were two other main causes of the trouble with the Indians: whisky was furnished them in ever increasing

~ogan Esarey (ed.), A from Its Explorat10n to 1850 (Vol. I, 2 vols.; Indianapolis: B. F. Bowen and Company, 1918), p. 210. 5.!£.!g., p. 208. 11 amounts and at high"prices, and the English ~missaries con­ tinued to fan the growing anger of the Indians "until it burst into blaze.,,6

Preparing for~. During the summer of 1810, Governor Harrison sent his special interpreter, Joseph Barron, to the Shawnee brothers with an invitatio~ to visit Vincennes and lay their grievances before the governor. On August 12, Tecumseh appeared with four hundred armed warriors. "The chief was neatly dressed in buckskin, his small arms--pres­ ents from the British--a tomahawk mounted in silver and a hunting knife in a neat leather case.,,7 The council was broken up in anger and near bloodshed when Harrison said that the land (acquired by the Treaty of Fort Wayne) had been purchased from the Miamis who owned it. "Both retired from the council to prepare for war.,,8 Many of the Indians began to visit to secure arms from the British while others made raids on the frontier. Governor Harrison called on the United States for troops and instructions. Regulars were sent to Vincennes from the forts

6Ibid., po 205. . 7Fre~an Cleaves, Old Tippecanoe, William Henry Har- r1son and H1s Time (New York: Charles Scribnerts Sons, 1939r,I>:" 72. - g Esarey, loc. cit. 12 on the Ohio, and the militia were prepared for a campaign. Esarey reported: Governor Harrison received orders from the President, early in 1811, to break up the rendevous of the Indians on the Wabash, if he deemed it best. Colonel John P. Boyd was ordered to transfer the Fourth Regiment of the United States troops from Pittsburg to Louisville and report to Harrison for orders. The governor issued a proclamation calling for volunteers. Among the latter were many famous Indian fighters from Kentucky--General Samuel Wells, Colonel Abraham Owens, Joseph H. Daviess, Colonel Frederick Geeger, Captain Peter Funk, and Major George Crogan.9 On July 27, 1811, Tecumseh sUddenly appeared again at Vincennes with three hundred men, still asserting his friendly intentions, but also demanding the return of the land. At this time the governor paraded seven hundred fifty militia. After this conference, Tecumseh sent his warriors home, and, with twenty companions, went on a long mission south of the Ohio.

The march. In the fall of 1811, before the return of Tecumseh, Harrison marched up the Wabash with a force of nearly one thousand men. Near present-day Terre Haute, a small fort was erected and named Fort Harrison. The main army left Fort Harrison, October 29, and marched toward Prophetstown. The army consisted of 910 men. . There were 250 regulars under Boyd, 60 volunteers from 13 Kentucky, and 600 Indiana Militia. tfThe mounted men, dragoons and riflemen, numbering 270 were under command of Wells and Daviess."lO

Near Prophetsto~m, Indians became so numerous that Harrison marched his men in line of battle, protecting them by scouts. The Indians asked for a council, which was set for the following day. Harrison led his army into camp on a high point of ground indicated by the Indians. All necessary orders were given in anticipation of a night attack. The men took their position in line and slept on their arms. The night was dark and drizzly rain fell at intervals.ll

The Battle of Tippecanoe. In the Indian village the Prophet told his warriors that the Great Spirit was ready to lead them in the destruction of the white man and would pro­ tect them from his bullet. After the war-song and dance, the warriors seized their weapons and rushed out to attack the Americans. d ~ It was about four o'clock in the morning of November 7, II 1 1811, when the sharp crack of a sentry's rifle awoke the men- i i just as General Harrison was pulling on his boots preparatory. to having the army roused.

10Ibid., p. 212. llIbid., p. 213. '~w'------

14 The two armies engaged in a deadly struggle. 'Both suffered heavy casualties and neither won a decisive victory. The Indians fled at daylight and the conflict merged into the war of 1812. The next day Harrison and his men destroyed Prophetstown and then began the long journey back to Vincennes.

Continued warfare and the death of Tecumseh. The next year on the breaking out of the-War of 1812, Tecumseh at once led his forces to the support of the British, and was rewarded with a regular commission as brigadier-general, having under his command some 2,000 warriors of the allied tribes.12 Harrison resigned his position as governor to take command of the troops from Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio. He was made a Major-General in the regular army. ••• the allied British and Indians were completely defeated by Harrison, Tecumseh, himself, falling in front of his warriors, October 5, 1813, being then in his forty-fifth year. With a presentiment of death he had discarded his general's uniform before the battle and dressed himself in his Indian deerskin. ••• There is no true portrait of him in existence, the one com­ monly, given as such in Lossing's War of 1812 (1875), a~d reproduced in Appleton's Cyclopedia or-American B~ography (1894), and Mooney's Ghost Dance (1896), being a composite result based on a pencil sketch, made about 13 1812, on which were mounted his , , and uni~orm._

12 Hodge, loc. cit. 13!lli. CHAPTER III

MILITARY COSTUME IN THE WABASH COUNTRY ABOUT THE YEAR 1$11

Military costume, or uniform, denotes ••• the distinctive style of dress and equipment established by governmental regulations and worn by any naval or military organization in order that all of the individual elements of that organization will present a homogeneous appearance.l Uniforms of the United States Army were adopted from the styles of the older nations abroad with such modifica­ tions as were from time to time dictated by local conditions or national sentiment. Wars with the Indians caused changes in some of the uniforms through the use of such articles of frontiersman's dress as deerskin jackets, coonskin , and powder horns. Generally speaking, all military uniforms are divided into two principal classes: dress and undress, or fatigue. Dress uniforms are for use on occasions of ceremony and are usually more ornate and gaudy than working uniforms. •• • The Regular Army was probably at no time con­ sistently uniformed in the sense we understand today. It commenced the war2 in one variety of dress and ended

. .lcolonel Dion Williams, trmy and ~ Uniforms and Ins1gn1a (New York: Frederick • Stokes Company, 19l$~p. J. 2These statements were made relative to the War of 1812, but it seems likely that the same conditions existed 1n November, 1811. In fact, some historians name the Battle of Tippecanoe as the first battle of the War of 1812. 16 it in another, between which times it frequently suf­ fered from make-shifts of all sorts. The older organ-· izations and the new ••• often differed in their garb, and the militia, which usually formed the greater part of any military force, bore slight resemblance to the Regulars and normally presented great variety among themselves.3 The Volunteers were sometimes more military in appear- ance than the Regulars, for having no fatigue clothing, they were forced by necessity to wear their full dress uniforms. Odd pieces of civilian clothing were frequently worn for working about the camps.

COSTUME OF GOVERNOR WILLIill~ HENRY HARRISON, COMMANDER IN CHIEF

Rembrandt Peale portrait. Concerning the uniform worn by General Harrison in the portrait painted by Rem­ brandt Peale, and reproduced in Plate 1, Fred Porter Todd4 commented:

.I am of the op~n~on that the uniform depicted is most certainly of the type commonly worn between 1810 and 1820. The single-breasted coat, the tall open collar, the high-necked , and the herring-bone arrange­ ment of the buttonholes, are all distinctive of the War of 1812. It is, of course, possible that the portrait _ originally was painted earlier, but it is extremely unlikely that the uniform could have been added prior to

3Hugh C. Me Barron, "American Military Dress in the War of 1812," The Journal of the American Military Institute, III (Fall, 1939T; 192. -- --- 4nirector of West Point Museum, United States Mili­ tary Academy, West Point, New York. 17

Plate 1

GeneralWilliam"Hellt-y Har:r.il:lon) ':'~:~'~"" • .',"-" -::' ._,~;) .. ..;_-~::·l-' .. j;:." ;'CbRUnander in Cfii:e.f 'Ie,' ',. ,. . ~ . ... C '"'.("; a.fter­ ~e Yh b r-O-..,d t 'Faa (Q 19 1810, and it is out of the question for Harrison to have been wearing it when he was serving under General Wayne~ This estimate of the period of the painting is fur­ ther borne out by the short brown hair and the side­ burns of the sitter. In 1793 almost all the officers wore long hair or wigs, the order for cutting the hair not having been issued until 1801.5

Old print of Harrison. Plate 2 is from an old print.6 The uniform coat of the Commander in Chief was dark blue with yellow buttons and gold epaulets each having three silver stars. The coat was without lapels and embroidered in gold with oak leaves and acorns on the collar, breast, and cuffs. The lining of the coat was buff. The vest, or waistcoat, and trousers7 were buff in winter and of white nankeen in summer. The hat was a chapeaux bras with a white plume.

Costume of Harrison ~ the march. According to the diary of Lydia Bacon,8 Governor Harrison was wearing a hunt-

5Porter Todd, uQueries and Answers," The Journal of the American Military History Foundation, I (Fall, 1937), 136. 6courtesy of Indiana Historical Library, Indianapolis, Indiana. 7The wearing of trousers was fairly general by 1813. Trousers were worn with the hooked coat and also the buttoned coat. Swife of Josiah Bacon, a quartermaster of the Fourth Regiment of the United States Infantry, who came to Vincennes to be with her husband. 20

;Plat~ 2 , ~' General William Henry Harrison . , \

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/

I.~ ( \~ \ \ \­ t~

/ t\ \ I I > I II //// I I' \ (' I I " I II \ \ I I (, o/r pr; nt II 1/ II (\ {ro YlF\ /~~I! I \ ...... I I ;( l \ I (--. \ \ If \l-r// 22 ing shirt on the day ne left fort Knox'at Vincennes to march up the Wabash with his Army of men. Mrs. Bacon wrote: ••• Governor Harrison called on me today, equiped for the March, he had on what they call a hunting Shirt, made of calico & trimed with fringe and the of it resembled a woman Short , only the ends were pointed instead of square & tied in a hard knot to keep it snug around him, on his head he wore a round hat ornamented with a large Ostrich feather••••9 !Spelling, punctuation, and capitalization were used as -in the original~7 Jacobs referred to the costume of Governor Harrison, also on the day he left Vincennes to march up the Wabash, thus: The militia and volunteers wore ••• rough caps, hunting and breeches. Harrison was dressed similarly except that his was decorated with an ostrich plume.lO

Boots. On the morning of November 11, 1811, Harrison was "pulling on his boots at the usual hour, before rousing his men for parade."ll Harrison's boots may have been either the hussar or Wellington type--well-fitted, and of soft black leather.

9Lydia B. Bacon~ "Mrs. Lydia B. Bacon's Journal, 1811­ 1812," Vol. XL, pp. 307-86, in The Indiana ¥~gazine of History, Mary M. Crawford,editor-TIndianapolis: Indiana Historical Society, 1944), p. 380. 10James Ripley Jacobs, Beginninf of the United States Army (Princeton: University Press, 94?):-P. 358• .llcaptain Alfred Pirtle, The Battle of Tippecanoe (Lou1sville, Kentucky: John P. Morton Company Printers, 1900), p. 52. 23 The hussar, or "Souvaroff boot, named after the Rus­ sian general, appeared around 1800. It was cut lower in back than in front, the front often ornamented with a swinging tassel. It varied in height, and was known in England as the Hessian boot. Another boot of military style was popular, high over the knee in front and cut out below the knee in back. Though known as the Welling­ ton boot, it is seen worn by Napoleon in many of his portraits.12 In Plate 2~ Harrison's boots appear to be of the hussar type.

Sherry-vallies. In the various accounts of the Battle of Tippecano.e very little mention is made of the clothing that General Harrison wore. One article of costume that is mentioned by Moses Dawson is a pair of "shereyvallys.tf Toward the close of the action, the troops in charg­ ing over Major Baen, who was mortally wounded, and ••• b.eing in person very much like the Governor (Harrison), and having a pair of shereyallys on exactly resembling a pair worn by him, the Governor having been seen near that spot but a few moments before, a report was im­ mediately circulated ••• that he was killed.13

The word flsherryvalliesfl is of Polish origin14 and has been spelled in various ways such as: shereyallys

12Ruth Turner Wilcox, The Mode in Costume {New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1954~p. 23a:- l~Ioses D~wson, A Historical Narrative of the civil ~ Mili~ary Services of MpjOr-General ~~~liam H. Harrison ••• (C1ncinnati, Ohio: rinted at the Office of the Cincinnati Advertiser, 1824), p.~32. . 14Sir William A. Craigie and James R. Hulbert (eds.), A Dictionary of American English ~ Historical Principles rVol. IV, 4 vols.; Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1944), p. 2095. 24 sherry-vallies, she~ryvallies, sherry vallies, shorresvals, and sherrevalleys. Sherryvallies were a kind of , pantaloons, or protective leggings of thick cloth or leather, worn when riding on horseback. They were buttoned on the outside of each leg and generally worn over the pantaloons.

~i.hen journeys were made on horseback, sherryvallies were indispensible to the traveler.

GENERAL STAFF

The Quartermaster's Department described the uniform of the general officers in the Army of the .United States prior to this period in the following manner: The uniform of the ••• general officers to be a plue coat, with yellow buttons, gold epaulets, linings and facings of buff--the under-clothes the same with those of the commander in chief. The Major Generals to be distinguished by two silver stars in each epaulet•••• The Brigadier to be distinguished by one silver star on each eRaulet•••• The Aides of all general officers, who are taken from regiments, and the officers of inspection, to wear the uniforms of the regiments: from which they are taken. •• • The uniform of the Aides of the Commander in Chief , \ when not taken from regiments, to bea blue coat with yellow buttons, and gold epaulet, buff lining and facings-­ the same under-clothes with the Commander in Chief.l5

15Quartermaster's Department, United States Army, Uniform ~ ~ ArmI of ,the United States, Plates by H. A. Ogden (Washington: Published by the Quartermaster General, 18g6), p. 3. 25 . With the exceptron of facings, wnich apparently did not appear on the coats issued after 1810, the above descrip-' tion seems to be true also of the 1811 period. From 1810 to 1813 almost all of the uniform that sug­ gested the dress of the Revolution disappeared. The coat was entirely changed. The long cutaway became a close-buttoned, single-breasted coat with shortened . From the ten gilt buttons of the general of­ ficer's coat were long, blind buttonholes running upward from the buttons in what was called Ilherring-bone form. 1f Facings disappeared, and the collars became enormously high, rising to the tip of the ear. The blind button­ holes were embroidered. •.• All the officers wore the chapeaux bras.16 Plate 3 shows some of the officers of the General Staff, 1810-1813--Major General, Brigadier General, Aide de Camp, and Colonel of Infantry.17

Social . The uniforms shown in Plate 4 belong to the period between 1808 and the outbreak of the War of 1812. These uniforms are the off-duty styles, worn on social occasions. They are also transition types, marking the change from the cutaway style to the straight breasted coat. There is little official information concerning the uniforms of gener21 officers of the Regular Army at this time. No doubt they were more or less of their· owner's design. The uniform shown here is based on Gilbert Stuart's portrait of Major General Henry Dearborn, painted in 1812.

16Uniforms of the United States Army, paintings by H. A. Ogden (Group 3, 1799-1813 in a series of 11 portfolios (New York: Barnes and Noble, 1960 (?), LU.p~7 17 • '-Ibid 26

Plate 3

General Staff Iwlajor General Brigadier General Aide-de-Camp Colonel of Infantry

28

PlCl,te 4

United States Army Officers in Social Full Dress Circa·1808-1Sl2

General Officer Artillery Field Officer

30 ••• the coat is : •• of dark blue cloth, and embroi­ dered in gold with oak leaves and acorns on collar and breast. The two or three buttons of the breast remain unbuttoned, the turned-back lapel showing that the buttonholes are embroidered inside and out. DeaF­ born's sword is of the shoulder type, made of red morocco leather and ornamented with an oval gilt plate. He wears a white stock, shirt ruffle and high collared buff waistcoat. His breeches would also be buff. The Order of the Cincinnati is fastened to a buttonhole on the left breast.18

COSTUNffi OF THElfULITIA

One of the duties of Governor William Henry Harrison was providing for the defense of the settlers in Indiana Territory. By the law, which was amended to make it conform to new conditions, every eligible citizen was required to: • •• provide himself with musket, bayonet, two extra flints, knapsack, and pouch with twenty-four cartridges, twenty balls, and one-fourth pound of powder. All these but the knapsack must be brought to muster. ••• From each brigade there was chosen a troop of horse, consisting of thirty to sixty privates with com­ pany officers. Each had to equip himself with horse, saddle, bridle, saddle bags, boots and spurs, sabre, and a brace of pistols with ammunition. Each militiaman of whatever rank provided his own uniform according to I official regulations.19 1 The uniform of the militia of Kentucky has been

"~J

~,'I described by Clift in the following manner:

18H• Charles McBarron, Jr., "U.S. Army in Social Full Dress, c. 1808-1812ft (Plate No. 1l4J, Military Collector and Historian, VIII (Spring, 1956), 16-17. . 19Logan Esarey, A History of Indiana from Its Explora- ~ ~ 1850 (Vol. I, 2 vols.; Indianapolis: B. F. Bowen and Company; 1918), p. 87. 31 Uniforms were first prescribed for all parades, re­ views, field days and all actual service. A general or general staff officer was required to appear with a coat of blue, lapels of buff, gold epaulets and buff under­ clothes, with boots, spurs, a cocked hat, and small sword or hanger; field officers and field staff observed the same uniform, except that their coats were turned up and lapelled with red and that they wore silver epaulets; the captains, subalterns and regimental staff were to nuniform themselves as the reputation of the service will materially be affected by a conformity to a regulation so essential in a military view; pro­ vided that for good cause shewn, the courts shall not fine the subalterns for not appearing in uniform; their trimmings to be the same with the field officers, except no epaulets shall be necessary, except the officers of the dragoons, rifle, infantry, and artillery corps, who may wear and adopt their own uniforms ••••n20 "In practice," according to IvIcBarron, "uniform dress was little observed by the ordinary enrolled militia,,21 during the 1811 period, with the exception of commissioned and noncommissioned officers, who were uniformed in accord­ ance with the law. On the other hand the Volunteer Militia--the light infantry and rifle companies, the grenadiers, horse and foot artillery, and the cavalry--were almost withou~ exception completely uniformed and equipped. These uni­ forms were for the most part showy, often extremely handsome and usually harked back to the Revolution for their inspiration instead of toward contemporary Europe as did the clothes of the Regular Army. Among the uniforms of these Volunteers there was a . 1 certain uniformity or at least consistency of color• i j .1 <1 20G• Glen Clift, The nCorn Stalk" Militia of Kentucky, ~-181l (Frankfort: Kentuc~istoricalSociety, 1957), p. v. 21Hugh C. McBarron, "American Military Dress in the War of 1812," The Journal of the American Militar;y Institute, III (Fall, 19391: 192. -- --- 32 - . The infantry, artillery, much of the cavalry, and even some rifle companies had coats and pantaloons of dark blue faced and edged with red. The general officers almost always wore blue coats faced with buff and buff underclothes, and the riflemen generally wore green rifle and trousers trimmed with red or yellow fringe. ••• It is not generally realized that there were three distinct styles of uniform coat existing at the start of the war; first, the old fashioned cutaway with facings, based on the Revolutionary War type; second, a coat of more modern aspect hooked from collar to bottom edge with straight wide facings down each side, based on con­ temporary European uniforms; and third, a coat of the same general lines as the second, but buttoned from col­ lar to bottom edge. The first two styles were worn almost exclusively by the uniformed militia Volunteers . though the second was worn by ~he foot artillery of the Regular Army before 1813. The third had been worn mainly by the Regulars since 1810, but here and there the Volun­ teers had adopted coats of a similar cut. 22 A waistcoat was required with the first and second styles. With the cutaway it was a part of the uniform, for it filled the triangular gap between the waistband of the pantaloons and the one point at which the coat met on the breast. The second style needed the waistcoat in winter to cover the unavoidable gaps between the front edges, or when the coat was allowed to hang open. trAs long as the cutaway coats were worn, close fitting _ pantaloons were their proper accompaniment,,,23 but trousers were worn with the hooked coat and also with the buttoned coat.

22Ibid., pp. 192-94. 23Ibid., p. 194. 33 Coat of the 181i period. Plates' 5 and 6 are drawings of the front and back of a military coat24 "which is said to have been worn in the Battle of Tippecanoe. u25 The style is certainly of the 1811 period, but the buttons have a French inscription on them, which causes some doubt as to whether the coat was actually worn in the battle or not. The color of the coat is a very dark blue--almost black--but may have been somewhat brighter when new. The high collar, cuffs, and trimming on the back are of the same material and color as the coat itself and ornamented with braid. 'rhe braid and buttons are so tarnished that it is quite difficult to tell their original colors. The braid is a brownish color, which may indicate that it is made of gold thread that has tarnished. The buttons are about the color of lead, but may be of tarnished silver. There seems to be some discrepancy in the above conclusions, since, according to the study, the braid and buttons were both gold (or yel­ low), silver, or white.

Major Daviess t Squadron. Major Daviess' Squadron of Light Dragoons, Indiana Militia, was called into service by Governor Harrison against the Indians who were under

24Courtesy of Miss Alameda McCollough, Curator of the Tippecanoe County Museum, Lafayette, Indiana. 25Letter from Miss Alameda McCollough to Georgia Parker, dated June 16, 1959. .' 34

Plate 5

Military Coat :Front View

i,:, i ,J

'I

" \ \,\ \ ,, \

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\\ , i \ \ ~ol 0... t<. Ie. <-f 36

Plate 6

Milit;ary Coat Back View

38 Tecumseh and the Prophet. It served from September to November, 1811, and fought in the Battle of Tippecanoe, where Major Daviess was killed. "The squadron comprised a Field and Staff and two companies, one of which came from 26 Kentucky." Plate 7 shows the dress of this squadron. The Light Dragoons were well-mounted and handsomely equipped, for most of them were the wealthier citizens of Indiana and Kentucky. In his appeal for volunteers, Major Daviess specified the uniform and equipment to be worn. He wanted: ••• a blue and pantaloons without any scarlet, a hat or leather cap covered with bear skin, boots and spurs and a pair of tanned leather to spare. The arms a good sword and a brace of pistols, with good locks, and a belt round the body with cartridge box and 12 cartridges. The cartridges to consist of such number of buckshot as the caliber of the pistol will permit, provide the ammunition but omit making up cartridges 27 till we meet. Let each saddle have two secure girths. Daviess also recommended that his comrades take care not to be encumbered with too much baggage, ••• which must prevent our usefulness as cavalry. Each man ought to have a good blanket under his saddle and one girded over it, this latter with hooks and eyes so as to answer all purposes of a great coat in bad

26H• Charles McBarron, Jr., tTMajor Joseph H. Daviess' Squadron, Light Dragoons Indiana Militia 1811,ft (Plate no. 5), Military Collector and Historian, I 1lApril, 1949}, 1. 27Logan Esarey (ed.), Harrison's Messages and Letters, 1800-1811 (VoL. I, 2 vols.; Vol. VII of Indiana Historical corrections, 40 vols.; Indianapolis, Indiana Historical Bureau, 1922), p. 562. 39

Plate 7

Major Joseph H. l)aviess' Squadron, Light Dragoons, II)diana ~Iilitia, 1811

~',. •• .' ,. '.. • I" t • • _ ,, I. ..~ ..'. ~ ., (, \... I

~ I ,;~ "~~ ..

41 weather and either a tent or bed at night, a pair of tanned leather hobbles for the horse, and no clothes which need washing except sox and linen; a and saddlebags will carryall needed supplies.2$ During the Battle of Tippecanoe Major Joseph H. Daviess, the commanding officer of the Light Dragoons, Indiana Militia, wore a white (or gray) blanket tfsurtout,n sometimes called a trcapote. n Because of the white , similar to the one in Plate 7, Major Daviess was an easy target for the Indians in the early morning darkness. He led a dismounted attack with twenty dragoons and was killed.

Captain "Spencer's Yellow Jackets." Captain Spencer of Kentucky led a company of mounted riflemen in the Battle of Tippecanoe. Pirtle stated: His company, being mounted, had yellow trimmings on the uniform, which gave them the campaign name of Spencer's Yellow Jackets," and they resembled those pugnacious insects, judging by the manner they stung the enemy.29

Hunting shirt. The hunting or rifle shirt, the prin­ cipal garment of the border fighter and the Indian scout, was sometimes called a smock, wamus, or tunic. Various kinds of materials were used for the hunting shirt. Many were made of dressed deerskin, which was fairly comfortable for summer and fall wear, but which drew up when wet and often

28Ibid., p. 561.

29pl.r ' t'le,.2£.~.,. t p. 68.

"} 42 became cold and clammy ih winter. Linsey cloth soon took the place of skins. It was more comfortable, but did not stand the rough wear like buckskin. Homemade woolen gar­ ments later took the place of both skins and linsey for winter wear; linen was often used for summer. Cloth shirts were dyed in a wide variety of colors, but those intended for the chase or scout were of a dull color so as not to be easily distinguished. Those made of deerskin were usually ash or tan in color. The hunting shirt was a loose fitting garment cut to varying lengths according to the weather, but it usually reached below the middle of the thighs or just above the knees. Many of the hunting shirts were opened down the front, without buttons, and made very full so that they would lap over a foot or more when belted by a broad leather belt. Others were opened only part of the way and laced together with leather . The sleeves were very large and one or more around the shoulders were decorated with fringe. There was also fringe along the cuffs and lower edge of the tunic. A knife and hatchet were carried in the belt. In one of his messages to the Prophet, Harrison wrote, ft ••• our hunting shirts are like the leaves of the forests or the grains of sand on the Wabash. tt30

30Esarey (1922), £E. cit., p. 448. 43 31 . Adam Walker wrote the following account in his journal concerning the appearance of the men who helped them ashore at Vincennes: September 19, 1811 ••• a rabble soon gathered about the boats and assisted in hauling them ashore--their whooping yells and their appearance caused us to doubt whether we had not actually landed among the savages themselves. Many of these militia spoke the French lan­ guage, their dress was a short of deerskin, a belt around their bodies, with a tomahawk and scalping knife attached to it, and were nearly as destitute of dis­ cipline as the savages themselves. The militia from Kentucky and a few companies of Indiana were decent soldiers, yet the large knife and hatchet which consti­ tuted a part of their equipment, with their dress, gave them a rather savage appearance.J2 The hunting shirt similar to those shown in Plate g was widely used in the "army by mounted and foot troops alike. n33

COSTUME OF THE INFANTRY

Cleaves described the Fourth Regiment of the United States Infantry, under Colonel John P. Boyd, as they landed

3lAdam Walker was a private soldier in the Fourth Regiment of the United States Infantry under Colonel John P. Boyd. 32Adam Walker, A Journal of Two Campaigns of the Fourth Regiment of the United States Infantry, 1811-1812 (Vol. VII of Indiana Historical Collections, 40-voIs.; Indianapolis: Published by the Indiana Historical Bureau, 1942), p. 697. 33Frederick P. Todd, Soldiers of the American Army 11Z2-~, drawings by Fritz Krede1 (Chicago: Henry Regnery Company,. 1954) ,1n.p-,-7 44

46 their boats at Vincennes on September 9, 1811: ••• Vincennes was quite taken by the array of but­ toned regulars, elegantly garbed in tail coats and skin­ tight pantaloons, with tall stovepipe , topped with red, white, and blue , tightly strapped under the chin. The army uniform of 1811, then in a period of transition was probably the gaudiest costume ever to appear on the frontier.34 Jacobs described the Fourth Regiment in the following manner: • •• His regulars caught the eye with their brass buttons, skin-tight pantaloons, long tail coats, stove­ pipe hats, chin straps and red, white and blue cockades. In spite of the fact that their uniforms were better for the stage than the wilderness, they acquitted them­ selves well.35 Colonel John P. Boyd on July 20, 1810, wrote the fol­ lowing orders for the Fourth Regiment: The Colonel directs that the New Coats delivered to the Regiment be dipd in Clear fresh Water dried and then so fitted as to allow for the winter . The pantaloons and Gaiters also fitted the Hats so essential for use and an ornament so requisite For a soldier, must be Cut according to the pattern. ••• The Colonel is therefore Confident in their volun­ tarily expending a few Cents in trimings ••• that the discipline, and soldierlike appearance of the 4th Regi­ ment should be second to no troops in the service .•• ••• and that the last years Clothing is kept neat and Clean and worn at all times except on Duty--Officers

34Freeman Cleaves, Old Tippecanoe, William Henry Har­ rison and His Time (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1939) ,P7 '88":" - :" 35James Ripley Jacobs, The Beginning of the United (. ~:a~58.Arml, 1783-1812 (Princeton: University Press, 1947), 47 while on duty will appear in Complete Uniform, their· swords outside of their Coats suspended by a white Belt from the shoulder.36 !Spelling, punctuation, and capi­ talization were used as in the original.! In 1810, and likewise in 1811, the coat of the Infan­ try was of dark blue, single-breasted, without facings, but with silver lace extending horizontally from the buttonholes. The standing collar and the cuffs were of scarlet. The linings, buttons, and facings were white, "and the present shaped civilians '' hat also came into use. n37 Plate 9 represents Ogdenfs "Enlisted Man of the Infantry." Their Z!he enlisted men! pantaloons were of dark blue in winter and white in summer, and they wore black half gaiters seven inches long, and white cross belts. The officers of infantry and artillery wore bras with cockade, eagle and white plume, white breeches and boots. Artillery officers had gold. ••• Infantry officers had in like manner, silver epaulets, white hat trimmings and steel sword mountings. Each wore a white belt three inches wide across the shoulder with an oval breast plate, three inches by two and a half, ornamented with an eagle~ and of gold or silver to correspond with the buttons.:J8 . , 36John P. Boyd, "Manuscript General and Regimental Orders and Letter Book, 1808-1812, u.s. Infantry, Fourth Regiment." Manuscript in the William Henry Smith Memorial Library. 37Quartermasterfs Department, United States Army, £P. cit., p. 4, citing ,Regimental Order Cantonment (Washing­ ton: 18l0),~.~ 38Quartermasterfs Department, United States Army, ; citing Col. H. Burbeck 1 1st U.S. Arty., to Lieut. James R• . ,.~anham, dated March 20,1811, Magazine American History, I, .ilIJ. d:7, 486. Infantry

50 The officers of th~ line and the men wore coats of the same form, but the trimming was white, and hori­ zontal. For a short time the enlisted men wore high hats, the shape of the present silk hat ••••39 Each Colonel of the Infantry was distinguished by two epaulets; each Major, by one epaulet on the right shoulder, and a strap on the left. Captains were distinguished by an epaulet on the right shoulder, and Lieutenants by one on the left shoulder. The epaulets and straps of the regimental officers were of silver. The Infantry Captain, 1810-1813, is shown in Plate 10. The uniform of McBarronts Captain of Infantry in social full dresst ••• is based upon a portrait of Captain Duncan Lamout Clinch, 3rd Infantry, which now hangs in the Fort Clinch Museum, . He held the rank of captain from 1810 to 1813. His facings are scarlet and his lace and but­ tons are silver. • •• A second set of silver braid is applied to both layers of the double-breasted coat front so that, when buttoned across on either side or buttoned back to show the full facings, the coat front would be adequately braided•••• It is remarkable that Clinch does not wear a shoulder belt for his sword, although he has on his . Yet here, too, is a peculiarity which persists in portraits throughout the War of 1812, and this despite regulations which called for the sword belt and prohibited the sash.40 - Possibly Clinch wore his sword belt over his ­ coat instead of on the outside of his coat because he was

39Uniforms of the United States Army, loc. cit. 4~cBarron, Jr., "U.S. Army Officers in Social Full Dress, ••• , ~. cit., p. 17. 51

"}'.;. ',\.' '/'·':'p.i~ke;10

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<.<>.­ ..,.?-.(;/:': ~;:r>"~ ) /j) II i/

o..H~v H.A. O~d~1I'\ 53 - 31 attending a . His sword may have been omitted for the I 3:: same reason. The uniform coat of the Fourth Infantry Captain, as stated before, was single-breasted, so there is some doubt as to whether all the full dress coats of the Infantry were ) double-breasted or whether there were both types worn during the 1811 period. Plate 11 shows the lnfantry Captain in social full dress.4l

Sergeant ~ffijors and Quartermaster Sergeants were dis­ tinguished by two yellow worsted epaulets; Sergeants by a like epaulet on the right shoulder; Corporals by a like epaulet on the left shoulder. The musicians wore scarlet coats with blue facings and white linings. The buttonholes were of white worsted lace, with frogs. The Chief Musician was distinguished by two blue worsted epaulets; cadets wore a gold strap with fringe on the left shoulder. The uniform for the Surgeons

, i, and Mates was: A Blue Coat,--(single breasted)--Cuffs and Collar blue; the Collar or trimmed all around with Lace or Embroidered,--with one Buttonhole laced; upon the Cuffs and Pocket-flaps three Buttons each. A Chapeau Bras.-- i A Black Cockade with an Eagle and a Black Ostrich Feather. 1 Vest, Breeches or Pantaloons, white; Small Sword, or J Dirk, the Colour of the Buttons and Lace to be same as the Officers of the Corp to which they respectively J belong.

};~ '\;!: ------4~ 41Ibid,~, p. 16. 7;' ~ 54

,~ J .

11

.Captai~., in Socia~ Full Dress, , 'Circa...... 1808-1812 t .. ;~,J, ...

, '

56 Hospital Surgeons' and Mates A Blue Coat edged with Buff, made and trirmned as above, with Yellow Lace and Buttons; Vest, Breeches or Pantaloons, Buff, Small Sword, or Dirk.42 ~pelling, punctuation, and capi­ talization were used as in the original.!

MILITARY HEADDRESS

Military headdress worn during the 1811 period pre­ sented a variety of forms, but basically there were four types: the chapeau bras, the common or round hat, the cylin­ drical cap, and the dome shaped leather cap or . These styles are shown in Plate 12 •. The chapeau bras, a descendant of the old cocked hat was considered the proper headdress for officers and also for men of the foot artillery (figure A).43 The name was derived from the fact that the hat (chapeau) was. collapsible and could be carried under the arm (bras) • The cornmon or round hat of felt, an adoption from civilian tife, had a that was seven inches in height and seven inches in diameter at the top. The brim was hand­ rolled and from two to three inches wide. It was usually worn with a cockade, loop, and feather on the left side

42Quartermasterfs Department, United States Army, .Q12. cit., p. 4. 43 Ruth Turner Wilcox, The Mode in Hats and Headdress (New York: Charles Scribnerf~ons, 1948~.-Z03. rI !

57

Plate 12

United States Military Headdress, 1812-1815 ~.~ ~:: " ',' , ' '..', '. o 59 I .\ (figure B).44 In this form the round hat was worn by many of the militia in the East as well as the West. It was sometimes dressed up with a strip of over the crown from the front to the back, to resemble the more military styles of the day, particularly if a colored turban or band of leopard skin was added around the lower part of the crown (figure C). The cylindrical felt cap was nothing more than the round hat without a brim--except for the circular piece left in front for a peak or (figure D). The fourth type was the cap or helmet. It consisted of a dome shaped crown of blocked leather about seven inches high with a sloping visor. Its usual decoration was a band or turban of cloth, leopard skin, or fawn skin around the bottom and a strip of bearskin drawn over the top from front to back (figure E). This helmet was commonly worn by the French in the 1790's. In America it was worn in 1812 by the majority of the Volunteer Militia cavalry and some of the Volunteer light infantry and riflemen. of leather often took on strange and bizarre attachments and decorations. High crests, made of tin or leather and painted in gold or red or some other color, gave almost Grecian lines. Many of the helmets carried metal or leather plates in front painted with some sort of insignia; others trailed long white plumes; and almost all were adorned with

44Figures B-E in Plate 12 are from McBarron, Jr., "American Military Dress in the War of 1812," ~. cit., _ p. 198. 60 feathers, encircled 'with cloth or hair, and brightly colored. As such these creations were the property of the wealthier Volunteer cavalry companies, but few ever saw service on the battlefields of the War of 1812.45

RELICS--TIvWLllivlliNTS OF WARFARE

Dirk. Plate 13 is a drawing of the tfdirk46 carried by James H. Sale through the War of 1812, and is said to have been used in the Battle of Tippecanoe. n47 The blade is of steel, the handle of dark brown wood trimmed in silver. The case is of dark brown--nearly black--leather. The dirk was given to the museum by Edgar S. Sale, Dillsboro, Indiana.

Sabre. Plate 14 is the drawing of a piece of a cav­ alry sabre48 found on the Tippecanoe Battle Field in 1910 and was given to the museum by Richard W. Gruelick. A sabre is a heavy cavalry sword with a slightly curved blade.

Pistol barrel. Plate 15 is the drawing of the nbarrel of a flintlock pisto149 said to have been carried by Henry Moore in the Battle of Tippecanoe. 50 It was given to the museum by George Williams.

45Ibid• 46Courtesy of Miss Alameda McCollough, Curator of the Tippecanoe County Museum, Lafayette, Indiana. 47Stated by Miss McCollough in an interview with the writer. 48Ibid. 49Ibid• 50Ibid. 61

Plate 13

D:Lrk " Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe

; \ , I '\ ,,,, .r' ('II

o - o r

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Plate 14

Sabre, (section) Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe j'

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l- ".

65

Plate 15

Barrel of a Pistol Relic of the Battle of Tippecanoe -- I I @),,- I -"

I.

I i I.f ,I

---~ . CHAPTER IV

CIVILIAN COSTU~lliS IN THE WABASH COUNTRY ABOU'I' 'rHE YEAR 1811

French fur-traders, trappers, hunters, and mission­ aries were the first known white men to come to the Wabash country. Many a Frenchman had married an Indian wife, and the high cheekbones of the Creoles showed their strain of Indian blood. John Law, the first historian of Vincennes, described these men as he had seen them in earlier days, their typical dress including a blanket ,1 a blue . handkerchief around the head, and for the feet. Of the native people in and around Vincennes, Lydia Bacon wrote in her journal: tfThis place was first settled by the French, one hundred years ago ••• in their habits and appearance not much superior to the Indians•• Behind this advance guard was the vast army of ambi­ tious home seekers from the East. Pioneers usually came empty-handed and lived on game while raising their first crops. Many of their first payments for land were made with

lCapote or capotte--a long coat or sometimes 1 having a and one or more capes. 2Lydia B. Bacon, "Mrs. Lydia B. Bacon's Journal, L 1811-1812," Vol. XL, pp. 367-86, in The Indiana lVIagazine of History, Mary M. Crawford, editor (Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Society, 1944), p. 381. 1 I

68 money obtained from pelts and venison hams. For hunting they used dogs, traps, and flintlock rifles. Throughout the history of the frontier it will be noted that pioneers often continued to wear the type of clothing in which they had left the East. The businessman's world, represented by the East, continued to be the model toward which the people tried to orient themselves. The Eastern styles were copied from abroad. "In general, the American way of life ••• had brought about few changes in the essentially European styles.") ,Yet, there was developed' along the frontier a costume that was distinctly American. In this constantly changing zone of frontier exist­ ence ••• there was developed a type of costume owing almost nothing to the fashion current in the civilized circles of the day. It is a supreme example of dress being shaped by the conditions from which it sprang, and it is the one type of costume truly and uniquely American.4 Wild animals furnished the frontiersmen with much of ' their clothing. They learned the Indian's way of curing and tanning, of cutting and sewing their hunting smocks, leg­ gings, and moccasins, but as spinning wheels and looms came in--buckskin slowly gave way to linen and homespun.

)Douglas Gorsline, What People Wore (New York: The Viking Press, 1952), p. 18r:-- ~dward Warwick and Henry C. Pitz, Early American Costume with illustrations by the author (New York: The Century Company, 1929), p. 290. 69 COSTU~ili OF THE ~lliN

Tunic or hunting shirt. A very important part of the frontiersman's costume was the tunic, wamus, smock, or hunt­ ing shirt. It was worn by traders (Plate 16), trappers (Plate 17), and hunters (Plate 18), as well as by many of the Indian fighters and scouts. 5 The ,hunting shirt was made with broad capes or collars attached to the garment. Sleeve seams, lower edge of shirt, and capes were usually decorated with leather fringe, but sometimes the decoration was fur •. Some of the hunting shirts were made of homespun or linsey­ woolsey. These were usually dyed blue and sewn with yellow fringe. The fringes on the early buckskin were much longer than is commonly thought. nIt is said that they tended to drain off rain, and they were also a ready source of binding thongs. n6 These shirts hung loosely from the shoulders, but were confined at the waist by a broad leather belt. The very finest tunic was made of elkskin, manipulated and kneaded until it was soft and white as milk. An elk tunic was likely to be more richly decorated than ordinary ones. Gorsline stated:

5See pages 41-43; also Plate 8. 6Gorsline, £E. cit., p. 205. 70

~ ,. Plate 16

~------.-

72

.,\

Plate 17

Fl,lr·· Trapper

~ ! i

74

Plate 18

A Hunter

·l'~;'------­ I; Ii

76 Lumber~en usually wore .••• t~e f~miliar plaid woolen sh1rts. • •• An 1nterest1ng French-Indian holdover was the Indian-designed sash frequently worn instead of a leather belt.7

Breeches and leggings. Close-fitting breeches, usu­ ally made of buckskin, were worn with the hunting shirt, and over them a pair of buckskin leggings. The leggings were much like those of the Indians. They' were often ttgartered or tied below the knees to prevent dragging and hampering the wearer's movements." The outer seams were lined with fringe, but near the bottom they were opened a bit to permit the easy passage of the foot. Leggings were sometimes tan­ ned with the hair left inside for warmth.$

Footwear. The hunter usually wore Indian moccasins because they were easier to make and made less noise in the forest than . They fitted the foot snugly but not tightly.. Moccasins were of buckskin, often made in one piece, according to Cockrum: ••• with a gathered seam along the top of the foot and from the bottom of the heel to the ankle joint. Flaps were left on each side so as to reach some distance up the leg to be covered over with the lower part of the . leggings, and all held in place by strong ~h?ngs of buckskin tied around just above the ankle J01nt, to keep the snow and dirt out of the moccasins.9

7Ibid., p. 206. ~varwick and Pitz, ~. cit., p. 293. 9Colonel William M. Cockrum, A Pioneer History of Indiana (Oakland City, Indiana: Press of Oakland City Journal, 1907), p. 192. 77 Moccasins were very cold in winter, and dry deer hair, buffalo hair, or moss was stuffed into them to help keep the feet warm. Red pepper was sometimes put with the hair or moss for additional warmth. Trappers lived freely among the Indians and many of their moccasins were made by squaws. The hunter and trapper probably wore some type of white , but they were not mentioned in connection with the hunting shirt and other garments of that nature.

Other garments. Warwick and Pitz stated: The border men always carried as little and dressed as lightly as possible, but in cold or stormy weather they would improvise garments from blankets, skins, or fur , using them as or wrapping them about the body and holding them in place with a belt or with buckskin thongs.lO

Lumbermen Itusually wore heavy fur coats" and visored woolen caps with tied flaps which could be placed over the ears.ll Because of the ways of the forest, a close-fitting head-covering was necessary. Caps made of felt, bear, beaver, fox, , squirrel, and even the sullen opposum were worn. A coon or fox tail was often sewn to the cap and let hang down behind. In the open country away from clutch­ ing branches and exposed to the sun, wide brimmed beaver

lOWarwick and Pitz, loco cit. llIbid. 78 hats were often worn. Those too, were sometimes decorated with wampum or the bushy tail of some wild animal. In the summer, hats were made from wild oat straw and from the flag that grew near the water. "Even the inside bark of the mulberry roots was cleaned and worked into very light durable hats for summer wear.,,12

Accessories. Rifles used in those early days were long and the barrels heavy. The bullet pouch hung at the right side from a strap that passed over the left shoulder. Just above the bullet pouch hung the powder horn, which was made from a cow or buffalo horn. The horn was scraped until it became translucent and the black powder could be seen through it. The leather belt was often worn with the buckle at the back in order to conceal the glitter of light and also to avoid catching the underbrush. Hanging from the belt on the left side was a long hunting knife in its leathern scab­ bard, and at the right side, the tomahawk. Sometimes a small pack of food, blankets, powder, and shot, was carried strap­ ped to the back of the hunter.

Costume of a Shaker. Shaker Town was located on the some twenty miles north of Vincennes, and

l2Gorsline, .QE • cit., p. 206. T!

79 Governor Harrison sometimes used one of the Shaker elders to carry friendly messages to the Prophet. The elders wore long, plain coats and wide brimmed hats. The Sunday costume of the ordinary Shaker consisted of pantaloons made of blue linen with a fine white stripe in it. He also wore a vest of deep blue linsey-woolsey, stout calfskin shoes, and gray stockings. The shirts were made of cotton and their collars fastened with three buttons. The costume of a young Shaker is shown in Plate 19,

which is similar to that worn by th~ elders.

COSTUME OF THE IMMIGR4NT OR VISITOR

The costume of men changed less than that of women during the first three decades of the nineteenth century. The classical simplicity of Greece and Rome was revived in 1 France, ttpartly under the influence of the painter David, n 3 and partly because of the French Revolution. This simplicity was encouraged by Napoleon, 1$04-1$15, and during that time 14 spread to America. The British influence of Beau Brummell was also felt here in America in the fashionable world.

13Ibid., p. 129. 14George Bryan Brummell, 177$-1$40, an Englishman fashionable for his dress and manners. 80

, ','':t, ':'~< :, :;,: ': ..; , ,:;'.'i;-· ;:; .. Pla"t,~,~i~9"'>ij" ' ~-: . " .. " ... ,,'. '-

". . .', '~" Costume of,'a.'

82 Coat. In 1811, cioth coats of blue were still the favored fashion for both full dress and street costume, although tobacco brown and pea green were also worn. Coats had a casual look with wrinkles around the armseye and through the body. The claw hammer tails came to within about four inches of the knee. Some of the coats were made with long lapels ending on a line with the hip buttons; others were without lapels as in Plate 20. Coats were either single or double breasted. The collars were cut very high and slightly padded to make them fit smoothly. Buttons were of gilt, silver, or of the same cloth material as the coat. Full­ dress coats were sometimes made of velvet.

Spencer. The spencer was a very short-waisted jacket that was worn with the Empire dress. It was invented by Lord Spencer, who claimed that fashion was so absurd, that he himself could concoct a ridiculous, impractical style and it would become the "rage". He cut the tails off his own coat and went for a stroll. In two weeks, all London was wearing the "spencer," and soon fashionable men, women, and children of the Continent and the colonies were wearing the same little jacket. ••• Spencer jackets were in black, purple, mulberry, or bottle green, of satin or velvet, lined and sometimes padded. Occasionally, a narrow peplum was added and very elegant jackets were bordered with swansdown.15

15Ruth Turner Wilcox, The Mode in Costume (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1954~p:-202. Plate 20

Claw Hammer Tails .. I ~ \ /\ ,,) (

I \, :)h ( ~ 85 Waistcoat. Waist~oats were rather gay at this time. They were single-breasted and usually of colored pique or percale, with a border of contrasting color and a row of ball buttons down the front. Another favorite material was 16 striped Marseilles of various colors. For the waistcoat was white.

Cravat. In the first decade of the nineteenth cen- tury, two cravats, or neckcloths, were often worn to give the desired bulky look around the neck. A white linen or muslin cravat was first wrapped around the neck, then it was covered by a black cloth made of silk or satin. Eventually, the white cravat was replaced by the standing collar of white linen with pointed corners. The cravat then began to decrease in bulk, while the collar points rose higher, finally touching the cheeks. Black or white was favored for the neck dressing, tied into a bow in front.l?

Shirts and . Ruffles under the coat sleeve had disappeared before 1811 and shirts were generally plainer than formerly. Wilcox stated that tfthe starched points 0 f the shirt co11ar showe d above the cravat ••••"18 White shirts were worn for evening.

16Marseilles is a thick, strong, cotton cloth with a raised weave, usually striped, somewhat resembling pique. 17Wilcox, 2£. cit., p. 258. l~b~. ..--..--... _-­

I '~'I ------.

86 were made of any material that could be procured, such as coarse linen or cotton muslin, "but often the only article of underdress was a breech-clout, similar to that worn by the Indians. tt19

Trousers. The nineteenth century marks the begin­ ning of pantaloons, or trousers, for men. At first much hostility was shown toward them, both in the universities and in the pulpits, but trousers had come to stay. Trousers had been introduced into the Peninsular War by the Duke of 'i'vellington and were first known as "Wellington trousers." By 1811, pantaloons reaching to the ankle were a characteristic masculine fashion--knee breeches, or small- clothes, gradually lengthening, until the original short ones for , were seen only on elderly gentlemen. Pictures of this date show long close-fitting trousers finished with a row of small buttons above the ankles. On each side near the waistband was a small fob pocket. These close-fitting trousers were made of such mate­ rial as stockinet, drill, corduroy, pique, or even buckskin, but the most popular material of the period was buff or yel­ low nankeen, imported from Nanking, . Evening breeches reached just below the knee or above the ankle where a short opening at the side was buttoned.

19Warwick and Pitz, ~. cit., p. 295. This is the only reference that was found concerning undergarments for men...... ,' \) ,,~' I J 1":~

87 The latter style was invented by Beau Brummell. llIt is said that smartness of his black pantaloons made trousers pop­ ular. tt~W

Gaiters and leggings. Short gaiters, covering the insteps and ankles, appeared about 1804. Between 1810 and 1815, trousers and gaiters made into one, as shown in Plate 21,21 came into fashion, especially for riding. Buck­ skin was a popular name for a riding gaiter made of tan colored leather. Gaiters were also made of cloth. Long gaiters, covering the calf of the leg, were usually called leggings, or spatterdashes. They were worn to protect stock­ ings or trouser legs in wet weather, especially in riding. Gaiters were often worn with the fashionable low-cut shoes (see Plate 22).

Footwear. Pumps, or low-cut escarpins with flexible soles and flat heels, or no heels at all, were worn with the dress habit. Some of the pumps were fastened with plain strings, or latchets; others had short tongues, and were fastened by a large square buckle. Types of footwear are shown in Plate 22.

20Wilcox, loc. cit. 21"American Costume, XIX Century," Plate g of Cloth­ !Bg 1.Q!!g Ago of the Informative Classroom Picture Series lGrand Rapids, Michigan: Informative Classroom Picture Publishers, 1940) ,lE.P7! • 1I i

88

.:pfate

Coat witltLcq>;c:1+s, Trousers and :.,.;; Gai~'ers":ln One . , /:,~". !' __ \ r ~\ /~ ~~~I (I k\!I ') t I I. J \ )1 f !/-- I--====- -==- -- --

~ h o.H~ ... lA."",~ .. i~A" C."tC4_~ ,.lIX:'('C"t",",! Y'

90

Plate 22

Footwear

A. Pump with buckle

;'" ,- B. Esc~rp',in c. ~ili~ary Napoleon and Wellington boot , ~.~ " ". : D. H.~ssa'~,~ Hessian or Souvaroff boot • !"' '.:.,:<' . ,:' ~:'. E. M:~~,~:iblue gaiter over trousers and pump

,c'.,'

. 92 Long trousers made short stockings, or , popular with men. The stockings were made of silk or , striped, or plain white.

Boots, high or low, were worn with either breeches or trousers by men of all classes--civilian as well as military-­ especially in the country. Under the influence of important military events of the time, boots were known as the Napoleon, Wellington, Souvaroff, hussar, Hessian, and many others. They were elegant, well-fitted, usually of British make, of soft black leather, the white often showing between boot and breec'hes. ••• The hussar or Souvaroff boot, named after the Russian general, appeared around 1800. It was out lower in back than in front, the front often ornamented with a swinging tassel. It varied in height, and was known in England as the Hessian boot.22 Another popular boot of military style, cut high over the knee in front and below the knee in back, was known as the Wellington boot, but is seen worn by Napoleon in many of his portraits. The English jockey boot with a turned down leather was also worn during the 1811 period (see Plate 22).

Headdress. The Brutus, or short haircut of Roman emperors, was the prevailing coiffure among men after wigs were demoded about the year 1800. The ends of the hair were brushed down over the forehead and in front of the ears over

2Zwilcox, QE. cit., pp. 237-38. · 93 the cheek. About le09, curled hair in loose ringlets came into fashion, and by 1812, short side whiskers were again the mode.

In 1811, hats with low and wide, curved brims were introduced, but not to the exclusion of high hats, which had been very popular since the end of the seventeenth cen­ tury. Hats were fashioned of felt napped with long or short angora, or of beaver; straw was used for summer wear. A band was usually placed around the crown with a buckle on it. "The hatters in their announcements offered to exchange hats for good coon, fox, or muskrat skins.n23 The next year, 1812, is noticeable for a change in the shape of the high hats. Brims were made very nar­ row and drooped very much both back and front, while the crowns were narrow at the top like the sugar-loaf crowns worn in 1850.24 Men sometimes wore a tall hunting hat. It had an inner band threaded with a string which was drawn up tightly to secure the hat to the head. In the modern hat, all that remains of the drawstring is a bow in the leather sweatband.

Accessories. Small, slim bamboo sticks or riding Whips were usually carried by the men. Their gloves were

23Lee Burns Life in Old Vincennes, Indiana H~storical PUblications Vol 'VIII No.~ Printed for the Soc~ety (Greenfield, 'Indi~na: The William Mitchell Printing Company, 1929), p. 458. 24Elisabeth McClellan, History of American Costume, leOO-laZO (Vol. II of History of American Costume, 1607-1870, 94, . made of buckskin and lined with squirrel fur. rfA with a dangling fob seal was often carried in each of the two front pockets of the trousers, but a single timepiece oc­ cupied the right-hand pocket. n25 Other accessories were the indispensable snuffbox and the small bag purse. nPurses were of leather set in gilt mounts or of knitted silk worked with steel beads and tas­ selled ends.n26 Handkerchiefs were about eighteen inches square, made of white linen, and sometimes had a hemstitched border and a monogram in one corner.

Greatcoat. For winter wear, bearskin were considered in good taste until the Civil War. There were two styles of that were made of cloth. Both were double-breasted and had a rather wide square collar. The redingote was a fitted coat with a long skirt. The carrick had several deep capes and long wide sleeves. Green was a popular color for the greatcoat, which is shown in Plate 23.

COSTUYili OF THE WOMEN

Women were less numerous than men on the frontier, and ~',their dress had neither the picturesqueness nor the illustrations by Sophie B. Steel and Cecil W. Trout (2 vols. in 1; New York: Tudor Publishing Company, 1937), p. 569.

25Wilcox, £E. cit., p. 260. 26Ibid• "~,,,/.~------; .. ; . "I

,; , , , 95

.Great coa1;i ~

I I :~_l __'.J 97 27' . individuality of masculine attire." . They dressed as plainly as possible, often wearing domestic materials, in order to help support their families--particularly their men who were usually border fighters. Women also dressed accord­ ing to the weather and the work they had to do.

Dress. The dress was made pl~in and siulple of linen or cotton. In cold weather an extra jacket ~s added. A and skirt were sometimes worn instead of a dress.

The bodice ~s of fustian,28 linsey-woolsey, or leather, cut loosely to the body and sometimes laced in front. Hooks and eyes were often used on clothing instead of buttons.

Skirt. Over the dress was worn a homespun skirt, or , as it was called then. The skirt was cut rather full, but not an excessive amount of material was used. It fell in folds from under the bodice and hung about the ankles, but was often shorter than skirts worn in settled districts because of the more active life of the wearer. Plate 2429 illustrates the country costume of women.

27Warwick and Pitz, £E. cit., p. 297. 28A coarse cloth of cotton and linen. 29Edward Warwick and Henry C. Pitz, Early American Costume with illustrations by the authors (New York: The Century Company, 1929), p. 297. 98

Plate 24

Country Costume I ~ .l I I I) ',-- ~ \I ) YlIIIIIIIII.------...... ­ ·1+/' I

100 Undergarments. Often the only worn by frontier women was a coarse linen or cotton .

Footwear. In cold weather, stout shoes, moccasins, or -pacs were worn with woolen stockings. The shoe-pac was a sort of half . In summer the women went bare- ( footed.

Headdress. Little attempt was made by country women to imitate the elaborate coiffures worn by the ladies who lived in town. The hair was worn'long, in plaits, or in a knot at the back of the head. Women on the frontier seldom wore hats. During incle­ ment weather a hood or was thrown over the head. Many women wore caps, both night and day. Very old ladies wore dark colored caps made of some fine goods brought from their early childhood home. Country women also wore the regulation sun of the period, which was very much like the bonnet worn during the early part of the twentieth century. The piece over the top of the head was made with casings for splits of wood to

Ii keep the bonnet in shape. There was a gathered curtain around ii the lower edge. II I" I Accessories. Collars were seldom worn. In their i stead, a small shawl, or , made of soft material might be thrown over the shoulders or about the neck.

;. :.. : : : :~: ... -~". .. . r>~ ~... . • •• __ • _ • .. : :r: :•• :,,-.- ~.: : •• eo... , :.-.-•• III I; !,'I 101 were usually made of coarse linen. Handker­ chiefs were small squares of white cotton cloth, spun and woven in the home, as was much of their other material. Very little jewelry, ribbons, or fans were worn or used by country women, although strands of traders' beads might occasionally be seen about their necks. Leather gloves made of squirrel skins were as soft as the best kid and lasted quite as well.

Shawls. Large, woolen were woven in a similar manner as were the blankets--of any color with bright stripes at each end and heavy fringe around the edge. These shawls were worn instead of coats.

Mad Ann's costume. She was called Mad Ann by soldiers and settlers, but to the Indians she was the \ihite Squaw of the Kanawha. She was • • • a short, burly woman in a camp-stained petticoat over buckskin breeches. She rode a powerful black mare named Liverpool, with a rifle on her shoulder and a hatchet in her belt • • • a powerful squat figure wear­ ing a hunting jacket over a greasy petticoat ••• and a shot pouch swinging at her side. ••• shopkeepers treated her with whisky and filled her game bag with gifts.30

30Walter Havighurst, Wilderness for Sale (in American Procession Series, ed. Henry G. Alsberg. New York: Hast- ings House Publishers, 1956), pp. 230-31. 102 COSTUIIiIE OF 1'HE DJILUGRANT OR VISITOR FROM THE CITY

During the 1811 period of history the keynote for women's dress, as with that of the men,31 was simplicity.

Dress. The outer feminine gown became a simple white muslin sheath girded just under the breasts and was allowed to .fall straight down almost to the ground, as shown in 32 Plate 25. Sometimes the skirt, instead of being straight, was gored wider to the hem. At first the sheath dress had short puff sleeves and a low neck, either round or square, then long sleeves were added below the puffed cap sleeves, and the neck became higher. Long sleeves were often divided into several puffs; these vvere called ITmarmeluke sleeves. IT The dress was finished with a decoration of cord, braid, ribbon, of self-material, or f'rills at the neck and sleeves as shown in Plate 26. A variation of the classic style was the slit over­ dress, which became the fitted pelisse and redingo'te. Morning , McClellan said:

3lSee page 79, YlCostume of the immig'rant or visitor. lf 32ITAmerican Costume XIX Century,IT loco ill. ,------1

103

Plate 25

Sheath Dress

I ; # t:t..11 « ... U 'C4 c. ... ; c: a.. '" C'0 S I-CA ~ T I

105

Plate 26

Classical Dress with Frills

Ii

107 ••• w~re made in ~he pelisse shape, buttoned down the front w~th small r~~sed buttons, or with an front, and.stoma?her let ~n an~ laced across like a peasant's bod~ce, w~th coloured r~bbons, and others again with a short jacket trimmed with lace.33 Dinner dresses of lawn, muslin, gauze, or batiste were made low in front but high in the back. The sleeves were either long or short and the dresses trimmed with fancy borders.

Undergarments. Women's body linen usually consisted of a bandeau worn over a chemise, under-, and stockings. Due to the lightness and transparency of women's dress, petticoats edged with lace frills became an important feature. Occasionally, instead of a petticoat, drawers or pantalets were worn as a decorative part of the costume, showing below the dress. Pantalets were sometimes false, "being ruffles held at the knees with tapes. Drawers were not generally worn by the feminine sex until the 1830's.34

Footwear. Shoes were cut very low and were often without heels, the soles being merely thickened at the back._ Many shoes were laced across the instep and tied around the ankle; these were called Greek or Roman sandals. Shoes were .

33McClellan, £E. cit., p. 337. 34wilcox, £E. cit., p. 263. 108. made of kid or jean; a twilled cotton fabr;c. . ~ The toes wer~ usually pointed and sometimes a toe-cap of leather was put on fabric shoes. White stockings with clocks35 were some­ times worn with these low shoes. In cold weather ankle boots of white, red, or blue morocco were worn for walking or horseback riding.

Headdress. The short Titus cut and the hair styles similar to those of classic times were the favored coiffures for women. Those who changed from the short locks wore false braids or curls attached to combs until nature supplied them with longer hair. Long hair was dressed ~ la Psyche with a chignon, or ~ la chinoise, with the hair drawn to a knot on top of the head, and clusters of curls at the sides of the face. Plate 27 shows examples of the turban, , and lace cap. A favorite headdress during the first decade of the nineteenth century was the turban. It was originally inspired by Egyptian campaigns, and was worn not only in France and England but also in America. The turban was made of silk, satin, velvet, muslin or gauze and was ornamented with feathers. Sometimes a was tied with a bow at the right side of the face (figures A-B).

35The clock was a woven or embroidered ornament on the side of a stocking, extending upward from the ankle. 109

Plate 27

Headdress ~1"'((11 E - ---- ,4 ,0_ $rc!f!l 15 - 0 wa.."'YV" ~ (( .."J PitL - ----.:::::::::::--- f. - F Rdies 111 During the second decade of the nineteenth century-- and much longer--the poke bonnet, which varied in name, size, and shape, was worn quite generally by women. It was made of velvet, plush, satin, fur, or felt for winter, and muslin, lace, gauze, or straw for summer. The poke bonnet had a projecting brim in front and ribbons that tied under the chin. It was decorated with plumes~ ribbons, or artificial flowers. Sometimes a lace hung over the front edge (figures C-D). "Dress-caps made of lace or silk and lace combined were worn by young and old with evening dress. lt36 Some of the caps were made with a point on the forehead. These caps were worn very much on one side with the hair in curls on the exposed side. Various kinds of caps37 were also worn by older women during the day and at night for sleeping (figures E-F).

Accessories. Artificial flowers were worn in the hair and as corsages as well as on bonnets. Make up used in 1811 was pearl white powder; little or no rouge was worn at this time.

36McClellan, Q£. cit., p. 505. 37Example E in Plate 27 is a drawing of the lac~ cap worn by Mary Dougan, great, great-grandmother of Georg~a Holt Parker. Example F is a drawing of the lace ?ap worn by Nancy Dougan Emmerson, great-grandmother of Georg~a Holt Parker (the writer). 112 Aprons--both plain and lace trimmed--were worn about the house. The handkerchief, also often edged with lace was carried in the hand. Jewelry consisted of rings, bracelets and combs; long or hoop of G~~ek or Roman influence; jewelled hair­ pins and ; lockets and worn on chain, and gold chains twisted several times around the neck. Fans were quite small, but the backs were of fine silk and were decorated with designs using spangles of metal. Long gloves with many wrinkles were usually worn with short sleeves, but short kid gloves suddenly became fashion­ able. There were also knitted gloves and mittens. Purses and reticules, or small change purses, were made of beads, straw, steel, or fabric. A small purse for money was concealed in the bosom of the dress. A small , or parasol, was considered a neces­ sary part of a woman's costume during the sunny hours on a warm day, or on a rainy day (Plate 25). Long scarfs often of poppy red or violet were thrown about the shoulders, partly for protection and partly to make the shoulders look broader (Plate 25). "An accessory of importance which took hold in this period and continued to be worn for a centuryTf38 or more was

38Wilcox, ~. cit., p. 240. 113 the shawl. This fashlon dates from the return of Napoleon's . , armies from Egypt. The shawls were of all sizes and fab- rics--fine wool, silk, lace, chiffon, or cotton, often hand woven and embroidered. The fact that shawls were worn in the Wabash country early in the year, 1812, may be noted from the diary of Lydia Bacon: lfThis climate is mild, have put on no extra clothing this winter~ except when walking or riding, and then a coat or large shawl, was sufficient.,,39 The tippet, which was a flat collar with long ends hanging down in front, was made of silk, velvet, or fur and was very popular in the first half of the nineteenth century•. Muffs were made of silk and lace for summer wear, but in winter they were large and warm, covering the ~rms to the elbows, and were made of fur or gathered cloth with strips of fur on them.

,Spencer. The spencer,40 a long-sleeved, short­ waisted, fitted jacket, usually of dark colored velvet, was worn over a muslin gown, contrasting with it. The spencer was often edged with fringe or a narrow band of fur, includ­ ing the standing collar. Occasionally, a narrow peplum was added. Other variations were that an overjacket of sheer

39Bacon, .2E. .£!-..,'t p. 386. 40See paragraph on spencer, p. 82. i, 114 muslin or lace was puiled on over the head, instead of being open in front, and was called a or cannezout.

Pelisse. The pelisse, a long coat-like garment, usu­ ally made to fit the figure, was universally adopted for cold weather during the years 1800-1870. The root of the word means pelt and at first the pelisse signified a fur­ lined or fur-trimmed cloth coat, but the name was later applied to any long outer coat. The pelisse was wadded4l throughout and lined with a contrasting color of soft mate­ rial. Frogs of sewing silk called Brandenburgs were used to fasten the pelisse down the front (Plate 28).

Redingote. About the year 1812, the long, or some­ times knee-length, cloth or velvet coat with several short capes Tfcalled the redingote by the French became the fash­ ion. n42 It was high-waisted, had a standing collar, and was fastened down the center front. The same style coat appeared in summer made of percale. Such colors as Egyptian earth, pea green, and tobacco brown were used for theredingote.

Riding habit. Ladies of some wealth visiting or liv­ ing in the Wabash country may have worn a riding habit .,. ~ similar to the following: { ~. 4lpadded with a mass of soft or fibrous materials. 42Wilcox, £E. cit., p. 263. 115

Plate 28

Pelis'se

1-'.

117 I' The feminine" riding habit res"embled that of the Directoire Period, the short-waisted, double-breasted jacket with lapels over a waistcoat and shirt' with full cravat, but the masculine was not adopted.43

COSTUME OF THE CHILDREN

Until near the beginning of the nineteenth century children were dressed according to-sex in garments that reproduced exactly those of the father and mother. 44 These costumes were often quite uncomfortable because the many movements of children called for more and freedom. Esarey said: The children did not wear enough clothes in swnmer to warrant a description, the maximum being a long shirt hanging straight do~m from the shoulders to the knees. In winter they dressed like their parents, the clothes being made on the same pattern, and only slightly smaller. The pioneer boy in his everyday dress was a wonderfully skillful machine, but the same boy dressed for a camp meeting with starched shirt and brogan shoes, was the most woe-be-gone, helpless creature imaginable.45

43 Ibid., p. 240. 44In the early part of the nineteenth century chil­ dren were still dressed a great deal like their parents, which probably accounts for the scarcity of material on the . subject. A few references were found concerning the costume of girls, but almost nothing about the costume of boys. 45Logan Esarey, A History of Indiana from Its Explora­ tion to IS50 (Vol. I, 2 vols.; Indianapolis: B. F. Bowen and Company, 1915) , pp. 479-S0. 118 COSTUME OF THE I~n~IGRANT OR VISITING CHILD

The little boy shown in Plate 29 (figure C) is wear­ ing a short jacket over his waistcoat and shirt. His striped trousers are patterned very much like those of his father. 46 His shoes appear to be low cut with gaiters worn over them. The hat apparently is made of straw. Costumes for babies and little girls in the early years of the nineteenth century were very simple and pretty. A little girl living in France, England, or America between the years 1800 to 1820, probably wore a lace trimmed dress made of soft muslin with a low neck, short sleeves, high waist with a ribbon sash, and a skirt just reaching to the ankles (figure A). Occasionally the dress was made shorter and showed beneath the hem (figure D). The hair was generally worn in curls when possible. The fashion became so popular that curl papers were the tor­ ment of almost every little girl in the nursery. Caps were worn in the house by little girls as well as women from the years 1800 to 1825. Hats of beaver or straw, according to the , were worn out-of-doors and usually they were tied under the chin. These hats were sometimes worn over the caps that were worn in the house.

46See Plate 21. I

119

Plate 29

Costume of the Immigrant or Visiting Child A_ w,',. u~ ~- Stowed A"'~ r ... Ou.+ " Q.-" ,4l4oo.c~ic:...... CO~.~&44" ",( ~~"'''tL''"f.. 121 For outdoor wear a pelisse or a wrapping coat with ~ deep cape was worn. These coats were lined or padded and lined and were often trimmed with fur. The pelisse shown in Plate 29 is made of red cloth, probably kerseymere, which was a fine twilled woolen cloth (figure B). The usual outdoor garments for babies of this period were long "cloaks of merino, wadded and lined with silk, and trimmed with embroidery or swans down fur. tt47

47McClellan, £E. cit., p. 483. CHAPTER V

SU~IT1ARY AND CONCLUSIONS

A description of the various articles of costume and related accessories worn by General William Henry Harrison and his associates in the Wabash country about the year 1811 was presented in this study.

SU~~~RY

William Henry Harrison, a· young man of military origin, became the first governor of Indiana Territory. In addition to his regular duties as governor he was in charge of the militia and Indian affairs. The Indians, aided by the British, opposed the advance of the white man and as a result the Battle of Tip­ pecanoe was fought in November, 1811. Although the uniforms of the United States Army were generally adopted from the older nations abroad, wars with the Indians caused changes in some of the uniforms through the use of various articles of the frontiersmants dress. The land which became Indiana Territory in 1800, had first been settled by the French many of whom intermarried with the Indians and dressed somewhat like them. Other set­ tlers came from the East and continued to wear Eastern cos­ tumes, which had been copied from abroad. Still other 123 settlers developed and adopted a type of costume that was more suitable to the life of a frontiersman--the hunting shirt, buckskin breeches, and . Feminine costume was made rather simple and plain, whether it was worn in country districts or by immigrant or visiting ladies from the city. The latter usually wore white muslin dresses and low-cut slippers--both of classic design.

CONCLUSIONS

Existing official regulations and pictorial evidence of costumes worn during the 1811 period are meager and often lacking in detail. Physical items in museums may be mis­ labelled even if they are exhibited. One may conclude that General William Henry Harrison's Indian fighters were not consistently uniformed for the fol­ lowing reasons: was then in a period of transition; the last year's uniform may have been worn much of the time; odd pieces of civilian clothing were often worn about camps; and the fighters came from different parts of the country and represented different branches of service. Although, generally speaking, the American way of life had brought about few changes in European styles of dress, there was developed along the frontier a costume shaped by existing conditions that was uniquely American. ~~------

BIBLIOGFU\PHY 125 BIBLIOGRAPHY

A. BOOKS

Adams, Truslow, and R. V. Coleman (eds.). Dictionary of American History. Vol. II, 5 vols. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1940. Barton, Lu?y. Hi~toric Costume for the Stage. Illustrated by Dav~d Sarv~s. Boston: Walter H. Baker Company, 1935. . Boatner III, Major Marck M. Military Customs and Traditions. Illustrated by Lieutenant Colonel Lachlan M. Field. New York: David McKay Company, 1956. Bradley, Carolyn G. Costume. New York: Appleton, Century, Crofts, 1954. Burns, Lee. Life in Old Vincennes. Indiana Historical Society PUblications, Vol. VIII, No.9. Greenfield, Indiana: The William Mitchell Printing Company, 1929. Butterfield, Roger. The American Past. New York: Simon Schuster, 1957. Cleaves, Freeman. Old Tippecanoe, William Henry Harrison ------and His Time. New York: Charles Scribneris Sons, 1939. Clift, G. Glen. The "Corn Stalk" IVlilitia of Kentuc¥, ~­ 1811. Frankfort, Kentucky: Kentucky Historica Society, 1957. Cockrum, Colonel William M. A Pioneer Histor of Indiana. Oakland City, Indiana: Press of dak1anditycr Journal, 1907. Craigie, Sir William A., and Ja~es R. H~ber~ (eds.~ •.A Dictionary of American Engl~sh ~ H~stor~cal Pr~nc~ples. Vol. IV, 4 vols. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1944. Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume. Vol. II, 2 vols. New York: Crown Publishers, 1948. 126 Dawso~,.Moses~ A.Hist~fical Narrative" of the Civil and ," M111tary 0erV1ces Major-General William H. Harrison. j' Cincinnati, Ohio: ~rinted at the Office of-Cincinnati Advertiser, 1824. I' ! Earle, Alice Morse. Two Centuries of Costume in America. Two volumes in one:- New York- The Macmillan Company, 1903. - Esarey, Logan (ed.). A History of Indi~na from Its Explora­ tion to 1850. Vol: I, 2 vol5: Ind1anapolis: B. F. Bowen and Company, 1918. ____~~. Harrison's Messages and Letters, 1800-1811. Vol. I, 2 vols. Vol. VII of Indiana HiStOricar-Collec­ tions. 40 vols. Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Bureau, 1922.

Gorsline, Douglas. What People ~19re. Illustrated by the author. New York: The Viking Press, 1952. Hamersly, T. H. S. Army Register of the United States. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1881. Jacobs, James Ripley. Beginning of the United States Army 1783-1812. Princeton: University Press, 1947. Law, John. Colonial History of Vincennes. Before the Vincennes Historical and Antiquarian Society, February 22, 1839. Vincennes, Indiana: Harvey, Mason and Company, 1858. Lester, Katherine Morris. Historic Costume. Illustrated by Ida McAfee. Peoria, Illinois: The Manual Arts Press, 1925. Levering, Julia Henderson. Historic Indiana. Centennial edition, revised and enlarged. New York and London: The Knickerbocker Press, 1916. Lindley, Harlow. ~ Indiana Cent~nnial, 1916. Vo~ •. V of the Indiana Historical Collect1ons. 40 vols. Ed1ted by Secretary Indiana Historical Co~is~ion. Indiana­ polis: The Indiana Historical Comm1sS1on, 1919. Lockridge, Ross F. The Story of Indiana. Second edition. Oklahoma City: Harlow Publishing Corporation, 1957. 127 il Lossing, Benson J. The Pictorial Field Book of the War of I: 1812. Illustrations by the author. New York: Harper ( and Brothers, PUblishers, 186$. lvIcllfee, Robert B. ~ist?ry ~f the L~te War in the Western Country 1816. Bow11ng Green, Onio: Historical Publica tions Company, 1919. - McClellan, Elisabeth. History of American Costume 1800­ 1870. Vo~. II of_,His~ory of American Costume, '1607-1870. Illustra~10ns by 0oph1e B. Steel and Cecil vJ. Trout. 2 vols. 1n 1. New York: Tudor ~ublishing Company, 1937. Pirtl~, Captain Alfred. The Battle of Tippecanoe. Louis­ v1lle, Kentucky: John P. Morton Company Printers, 1900. Smith, Gale. Indiana History. Fowler, Indiana: Benton Review Publishing Company, 1959. Tipton, John. The Papers, 1809-1827. Vol. I, 3 vols. Vol. XXIV in Indiana Historical Collections, 40 vols. Compiled by Glen A. Blackburn. Edited by Nellie Armstrong Robertson and Dorthy Riker. Indiana­ polis: Published by the Indiana Historical Bureau, 1942. Todd, Frederick P. Soldiers of the American Army, 1775-~. Drawings by Fritz Kredel. Revised edition. Chicago: Henry Regnery Company, 1954. Walker, Adam. A Journal of Two Campaigns of the }I'ourth Regi­ ment of the United States Infantry, 1811-1812. Vol. VII in Indiana-Historical Collections. 40 vols. Indiana­ polis: Published by the Indiana Historical Bureau, 1942. Warwick, Edward, and Henry Pitz. Early American Costume with illustrations by the authors. New York: The Cen­ tury Company, 1929. Webster, Homer Jeptha. William ~en~y Har:ison~s Admin~stra­ tion of Indiana Territory. Ind1ana H1stor1calSoc7ety Publications, Vol. IV, No.3. Indianapolis: Sent1nel Printing Company, 1907. Wilcox, R. Turner. The Mode in Costume. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons,-r954. • The Mode in Footwear. New York and London: --....C....h-arles Scribner's Sons, 194$. 128 __.,.".._. :lhe Mode in ~Ha~s and Headdre~s. New York and London. Charles ~cr~bner's Sons, 1948.

Will~~ns, Colonel Dion. !rlny and Navy Unifo d I New York: Frederick • Stokes Company, 19j8~n nsignia. Williams! Oscar H., and others. Readings in Indiana H' t C~mp~led and ed~ted by a COmInittee of the History ~:c~ry. ~~on of the I~d~ana State Teachers' Association. Bloom­ ~ngton: Publ~shed by Indiana University, 1914.

B. BOOKS: PARTS OF SERIES

Drig s, Howar~ R= The Old 'West Speaks. Water color paint­ 9~ngs by W~ll~am Henry Jackson. Published by arrangement with Prentice-Hall. New York: Bonanza Books, 1956. Havighurst, Walter. Wilderness for Sale. In American Pro­ cession Series, ed. Henry G. Alsberg. New York: Hast­ ings House Publishers, 1956.

C. PUBLICATIONS OF THE GOVElli~~lliNT, LEARNED SOCIETIES, N~D OTHER ORGANIZATIONS

Carmony, Donald F., and Howard H. Peckham. A Brief History of Indiana. Illustrated by Clotilde Embree Funk. Fourth edition, second printing. Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Bureau, 1956. Hodge,Frederick Webb. Handbook of American Indians North of Mexico. Smithsonian Institution Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 30. In two parts, Part II. Wash­ ington: Government Printing Office, 1910. Indiana Historical Bureau. Chief Little Turtle. Indiana Heroes for Young Hoosiers, No.2. Indianapolis: His- torical Bureau, Ln.~7 William Henry Harrison. Indiana Heroes for Young ---:-:--.Hoosiersry No.3. Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Bureau, Ln.d./ Peat, Wilbur D. (ed.). George Winter Pioneer Art~st of Indiana. Exhibition of the work of George W~nter, November i-to 26, 1939. Indianapolis: John Herron Art Musewn, Ln.,d;] 129 . Quartermaster's Department, United States Army. Uniform of the ~rmy of the United States. Plates by H. A. Ogden-.-' Wash~ngton: Published by the Quartermaster General 1886. ' The Vincennes Fortnightly Club. Historic Vincennes Tour­ ist's Guide. Tenth edition. Vincennes Indiana:--The Vincennes Fortnightly Club, 1950. '

D. PERIODICALS

Bacon, Lydia B. "Mrs. Lydia B. Bacon's Journal, 1811-1812," Vol. XL, pp. 367-86, in The Indiana Magazine of History, Mary M. Crawford, editor-.--Indianapolis: Indiana His­ torical Society, 1944. McBarron, Hugh C. "American Military Dress in the War of 1812 " The Journal of the American Military Institute, III 1lFall, 1939), 191-99. lVIcBarron, H. Charles, Jr. ''If.lajor Joseph H. Daviess Squadron, Light Dragoons Indiana Militia, 1811 " (Plate No.5), Military Collector and Historian, I (April, 1949), 1. • "U.S. Army Officers in Social Full Dress, c. 1808­ ---"::"1":"r8-':-12," (Plate No. 114), Military Collector and Historian, VIII (Spring, 1956), 16-17. Monvel Roger Bontet. "Children's Costumes in the Nine­ te~nth Century, from 1800-1870," with drawings by Ma';1rice Bontet Dcl~onvel, from a portion of the Century Magaz~ne, New York City (out of print), LU.d:7, 278-89. Peterson Mendel L. "American Epaulettes l775-1820,ff (Plate B, N~. 2, 3 4), Military Collector and Historian, II (June, 1950}, 17, 21. Todd Porter. "Queries and Answers," The Journal of the American Military History Foundation, I (Fall,-r937), 136.

'':'.i I 13.0 E. UNPUBLISHED t~TERIALS

Boyd? John P. "Manuscript General and Regimantal Orders and .~etter ~ook, 1808-1812, U. S. Infantry, Fourth Regiment." Manuscr1pt in the William: Henry Smith Memorial Library pp. 84-85. '

F. NEWSP APERS

Jeffries~ Phil. "They'll Rally at' Battle Ground Indiana" The Sunday LEvansville, Indianil Look July 23 1961' pp • 8, 13. - --,"

"Tippecanoe and Vanderburgh, Too," The Sunday ~vansville Indianil Look, February 1, 1959~-P. 9. '

G. PORTFOLIOS

"American Costume, XIX Century~ft Plate 8 of Clothing Long Ago of the Informative Classroom Picture Series. Grand Rapids, Michigan: Informative Classroom Picture Pub­ lishers, 1940. Uniforms' of the United States Army. Paintings by H. A. Ogden. Group 3, 1799-1813 in a series of 11 portfolios. New York: Barnes and Noble, Inc., 1960 ~7.

H. LETTERS

II Letter from John G. Biel, Chairman of the William Henry Har­ 1 rison Trail Commission, to Professor Elmer J. Porter, ,I Chairman of the Art Department, Indiana State College, i, dated October 21, 1958. ;j, 1 Letter from Philip S. Rusk, Editor of The ~outhern Califor~ia t Rancher and an author of books, to Ju11et Peddle, arch1­ teet, Terre Haute, Indiana, dated March 14, 1959. Letter from Caroline Dunn, Librarian of the William Henry Smith Memorial Library, to Georgia Holt Parker, dated June 15, 1959. 131 Lett~~ fro~ Alameda'~cC?llough, Curator Tippecanoe County hlstorlcal Assoclatlon Headquarters to Geor~ia Holt Parker, dated June 16, 1959. ' 0 Letter from Frederick P. Todd, Director of West Point Museum, to Georgia Holt Parker, dated October 15, 1959.

Alameda McCollough, Curator of Tippecanoe County Historical Association Headquarters, Lafayette, Indiana. Juliet Peddle, architect and member of Historical Associa­ tion, Terre Haute, Indiana.

J. RELICS

Buttons and knife blades found by Charles Smock near Fort Harrison in 1904. The relics were given to the His­ torical Association, Terre Haute, Indiana, by Philip S. Rusk in 1959. Cans made of lace, owned by Georgia Holt Parker, were worn ~ by her great-grandmother, Nancy Dougan E~nerson, born in 1806, and her great-great-grandmother, Mary Dougan, born about 1780. Coat dirk, pistol barrel, and sabre, relics said to have been worn and used in the Battle of Tippecanoe, owned by the Tippecanoe County Historical Association, Lafayette, Indiana. APPENDIX 133 APPENDIX A

KNIFE BLADES AND BUTTONS

Plate 30 is a drawing of some old relics that were unearthed near Fort Harrison and later given to the Histor­ ical Society at Terre Haute. In this package are four old knife blades and two old buttons. In 1904 Charles Smock was plowing in the field just east of Fort Harrison and he uncovered these relics. He gave them to me afterward, and I have kept them among my curios. One button is quite evidently off a soldier's uniform. I The knife blades are so rusted and scarred that one cannot be certain of the identity of the name that is on one of them. The letters appear to be ARCOKE, but the K could be R or N, and there is some doubt about the second and last ,letters. Harold L. Peterson2 said: ••• these appear to be blades from pocket knives. At least each seems to have a hole for a pivot and a bearing for a spring. The letters on the specimen you inquired about would undoubtedly be the maker's name, but unfor­ tunately I do not recognize it as any with which I am familiar.3 'fhe two tarnished buttons--one plain and gray in color is possibly pewter; the other has insigni,a and appears

lLetter from Philip S. Husk to I~Iiss Juliet Peddle, dated March 14, 1959. 2Harold L. Peterson is Staff Historian, United States Department of the Interior. 3Letter from Harold L. Peterson to Georgia Holt Parker dated December 1, 1961. 134

Plate 30

Knife Blades and Buttons

I. I: I~ .:r--

4/~c:C ~ -J.(j;-. --.. ~

\Vo

Jebi I 136 to be of brass. On the latter button an eagle is displayed, , head to the left, wings up, three arrows in the right talon, an olive branch in the left, and a shield on the breast bearing the letter R. A regimental number is not visible. This button was surely worn by a man in the American Armed Forces, possibly an officer, during the years 1810-1824. 137 APPENDIX B

INVENTIONS

The following inventions mayor may not have influ­ enced costumes in the Wabash Country about 1811. Late in the eighteenth century and early in the nine­ teenth century machines were invented in England to manu­ facture net and lace in large pieces, which were used for shawls and bridal . Rubberized cloth was first patented in 1801 in London by Rudolph Ackerman. In 1801, the textile industry was revolutionized by the invention of a mechanical loom to weave patterns or brocaded fabrics. The loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard, the son of a weaver. In 1808, a Frenchman named Camus, Jr., patented the first known invention for the production of hooks and eyes by power. In 1807, in Birmingham, England, B. Sanders invented the metal button formed on two disks locked together by turning the edges. He also made the shell button with a metal shank. 138 APPENDIX C

TANNING LEATHER

The early pioneers tanned their own leather. For this purpose a large trough was an indispensable piece of property. The bark from black oak trees was carefully secured in the spring when the sap 'was up, to be dried and saved for tanning leather. The skins of deer, wolves, bears, and the cows that died or had been killed by panthers were saved. First the hides were put into a trough with strong ashes until the hair became loose and could be scraped off. Then they were put into the vat and the oak bark pounded and put between each layer of hides. When the oak liquor began to lose its strength it was drawn off and more pounded bark was added to the vat. . After several months the hides were taken out of the vat and scraped back and forth over the edge of a board in order to make them pliable. Bear oil was then worked into the hides until they were soft. The pioneers learned from the Indians that the brains of the deer were best of all to make tanned leather soft and to keep it so. It took almost three large dressed buckskins to make a hunting shirt, leggings, and two pairs of moccasins.

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