RETAIL STOCKS RIDE WAVE/2 THE RETURN OF RUDI?/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 3, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 111 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Big Night Out NEW YORK — Sarah Jessica Parker, the city’s ambassador of style, kicked off the industry’s biggest night — the CFDA Fashion Awards. Wearing a champagne silk cocktail by Oscar de la Renta and Fred Leighton jewels, she popped backstage for an impromptu photo session. Other stars of the night included Narciso Rodriguez, who won for Women’s Wear Designer of the Year; Michael Kors for Men’s, and for Accessories. Brian Atwood won Swarovski’s Award for Accessories and ’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Ready-to-Wear prize. The International Award went to Alexander McQueen; Lifetime Achievement to Anna Wintour; the Eleanor Lambert Award to Rose Marie Bravo, and the Eugenia Sheppard Award to André Leon Talley. Oleg Cassini was honored with a special tribute, while Nicole Kidman won the Fashion Icon Award.

Tom’s YSL Update: Rougher Space Puts Focus on Accessories By Anamaria Wilson NEW YORK — One might say Tom Ford is fixated on duality. After all, he’s a man whose tastes run toward black, minimalist interiors, bold infusions of YSL’s salon at the sex, and a design store on East 57th Street. aesthetic that toes the line between hard and soft. So it’s not surprising that his new Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche store is no exception. Situated at 3 East 57th Street, next door to the mammoth LVMH building, the 11,400-square-foot space, which opened Monday, is a EICHNER See Roughing, Page6 STEVE

Y B PHOTO 2 2003 3, Retail Shares Outride Wave WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles could be an upside to May’s second half improvement, driven

JUNE By Jennifer Weitzman

, same-store sales when the ma- by the management changes at Investors were jority of the industry reports re- the AT division. Shares of AT rose GENERAL NEW YORK — Tom Ford’s new Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche store on East 57th Street shopping for retail on Monday sults on Thursday. 72 cents, or 2.8 percent, to $26.29. with the expectation that con- The Institute for Supply Man- “We remain very encouraged 1 opened Monday, showing a sleek, polished interior with rustic accents. UESDAY T sumers have some shopping agement’s May activity index by the organizational changes at Peggy Moffitt revealed she’s in talks to relaunch the label at plans of their own. showed that the battered U.S. AT. Clearly the biggest change 2 a show of works of herself, her husband and the late designer in Phoenix. While other major indices manufacturing sector slowed its has been the addition of Jerome WWD, gave back most of the gains they rate of decline, coming in at a Jessup. However, with him and READY-TO-WEAR: The prevalence of on international runways picked up earlier in Monday’s better-than-expected 49.4 in May Mark Eisen and now most re- 11 helped push the category into double-digit gains this spring at many stores. trading session, the Standard & from 45.4 in April, and marginally cently Michele Delahunty from Children still weave carpets, sew and , pick cotton and work Poor’s Retail Index came out better than the 41.5 of February Gap, the company’s design-mer- 2 in leather tanneries and mines in countries receiving U.S. trade benefits. the big winner, closing up 2.44 2001, just prior to the start of the chandising bench is clearly points, or 0.8 percent, to 321.07. recession. beefed up,” Cohen wrote. EYE: Candace Bushnell, who believes in happy endings, is promoting her After a brief climb over the Shares of Coach won investor As reported, since last sum- 16 latest novel, “Trading Up,” plus a report from Saturday’s MTV Movie Awards. feel-good 9,000 point mark earlier adulation, advancing $1.72, or 3.5 mer, the AT unit has been bol- Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 in the session, the Dow Jones percent, to close at $50.85 on stered by the appointment of Industrial Average closed up New York Stock Exchange, after Jessup as senior executive vice To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is 47.55 points, or 0.5 percent, to end Merrill Lynch raised its rating on president for merchandising [email protected], using the individual's name. the day at 8,897.81. It was the the luxury accessories company and design, Eisen as senior vice SUBSCRIPTION RATES Dow’s highest close all year, as to “buy” from “neutral.” Coach president of design and U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the Nasdaq finished down 5.16 broke its previous 52-week high Delahunty as senior vice presi- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; points, or 0.3 percent, to 1,590.75. of $49.25, reached May 30. dent and general merchandise outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Specialty retailers garnered Analyst Mark Friedman wrote manager. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional the greatest share of the gains, in a report the boost to Coach re- Other retail gainers included: issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. but many broadline retailers, in- flected “an increased level of American Eagle Outfitters, up 60 a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., cluding department stores, confidence about the strength of cents to $17.53; Cache, up 90 cents a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. shared in Monday’s bounty as ex- the business and the ability to to $11; Charlotte Russe, up 46 No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be pectations of a modest recovery outperform in this environment cents to $10.01; Coldwater Creek, expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 in the second half combined with against tough ‘compares.’” up 68 cents to $12.97; Federated Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other . Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 a hint of optimism about same- He said he based his elevation Department Stores, up $1.15 to GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 store sales for May. on Coach’s “outstanding, differen- $33.65; Gap, up 43 cents to $17.43; Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of “My sense is there is re- tiated, fun and yet still classically May Department Stores, up 69 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. newed interest in what may be a Coach” fall- 2003 products, cents to $22.38; ShopKo Stores, up For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. recovery in the consumer sector the firm’s emphasis on testing, 46 cents to $12.15; Saks, up 28 in the second half,” Jeffrey new customer potential and its at- cents to $9.66; United Retail, up Klinefelter, a retail analyst with tractive position in the market. 14 cents to $1.95; Wilson Leather, U.S. Bancorp Piper Jaffray, said. Ann Taylor also received a up 25 cents to $5.97. Dorothy Lakner, a retail ana- kind word from Banc of America Sears Roebuck rose $2, or 6.7 In Brief lyst with CIBC World Markets, retail analyst Dana Cohen. In a percent, to $31.98 after saying it noted that, despite the soggy note maintaining her “buy” posi- would work aggressively to main- weather in the Northeast, there tion, Cohen said AT is poised for a tain its market share in appliances. MAGLI’S NEW DIGS: Today, Italian footwear and accessories firm Bruno Magli is opening its second unit at 789 Madison Avenue. The 5,000-square-foot boutique is spread over three levels, and design elements draw from the retail concept the company introduced at its Florence, Italy, boutique last DOL Report: November. The decor is gray, brown and red, and wooden Louro Peggy Moffitt in Talks Preto frames create the main display areas for and leather goods. Customers will find the brand’s full assortment of Child Labor shoes, and outerwear. The New York opening is part of To Relaunch Gernreich Magli’s retail growth strategy, which includes a store in Honolulu opening by yearend, and two others — in Las Vegas Still Abounds and Beverly Hills — next year. By Rose Apodaca Jones time.’ If for 18 years it’s the per- fect time, there’s something By Kristi Ellis THROWING IN THE TOWELS: WestPoint Stevens Inc. on PHOENIX — The man behind there that’s eternal. It made me Sunday filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection and its chief the see-through , unisex believe in the timelessness of WASHINGTON — Children still executive officer Holcombe Green resigned. Chief operating offi- looks and the notorious topless Rudi’s designs. Now, it’s about mine for gold and diamonds, cer M.L. Fontenot will become interim ceo and new independent bathing might posthumously to happen. I can’t say much weave carpets, sew clothing and members will be added to the board of directors, the company have his second coming. more than that.” footwear, pick cotton and work said. As part of the filing with the U.S. Bankruptcy Court for the The revolutionary designs of Moffitt would confirm the in leather tanneries in countries Southern District of New York, the West Point, Ga.-based textile Rudi Gernreich could very well talks, under way in recent receiving U.S. trade benefits, ac- and maker has arranged commitments for up to $300 million in be in production again within weeks, are, indeed, serious. cording to a newly released U.S. debtor-in-possession financing from a group of banks led by Bank the year, announced Peggy “This is going to happen — in a Department of Labor report. of America and Wachovia, in to continue normal opera- Moffitt, the designer’s muse and small way, but in a very presti- The 500-page report details the tions. A predecessor company with a substantial apparel fabrics tireless keeper of his legacy, at gious way that I’m comfortable “worst forms” of child labor in 146 business, WestPoint Pepperell, merged with Valley the opening Friday night of with. I think Rudi could go on trade beneficiary countries and Corp. upon the latter’s emergence from bankruptcy in 1992 fol- “Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and on.” territories, ranging from “haz- lowing investor William Farley’s hostile takeover attempt in 1989. William Claxton,” a new exhibi- Asked whether the partners ardous” jobs such as construction tion running through Sept. 14 at are American, European or to apparel, textile and footwear the Phoenix Art Museum spot- Asian, after a coy pause Moffitt production to bonded labor, drug lighting the trio’s groundbreak- replied: “Some or all of the trafficking and prostitution. ing collaboration. above. It will be a little while be- Compiled as part of a require- Corrections “For 18 years I’ve been trying fore I can announce who these ment under the Trade & Develop- In “WWD: New Waves,” a series of profiles on the nominees for the to get people interested in people are.” ment Act of 2000, the report gives Council of Fashion Designers of America Fashion Awards, a head- bringing Rudi’s clothes back,” Moffitt has long held a trade- country profiles on the percentage line under the accessories category misidentified one of the three Moffitt said following a lecture mark on Gernreich’s name, who of estimated child labor in each collections. Marc Jacobs was nominated for his signature collection, she and photographer-husband died in 1985 at the age of 63. In country, as well as the ongoing ef- as referenced on page 25 of the supplement published Monday. Claxton held prior to the gallery 1991, she and Claxton released forts to eliminate it. It does not viewing. “And for 18 years, the Taschen-published tome, offer any measurement of whether A caption on page 2, Monday, misidentified Stefano Gabbana. The everyone told me ‘That’s a ge- “The Rudi Gernreich Book.” a country has improved or wors- man on the left pictured with Domenico Dolce was Justo Arigas, nius idea and now’s a perfect Continued on page 4 ened its child labor record. vice president of public relations. In 2000, the International Labour Organization estimated that 211 million children be- WWDStock Market Index for June 2 tween the ages of five and 14 were working around the world, Composite: 105.89 Broadline Stores: 105.30 Softline Stores: 103.75 according to the report. Congress appropriated $45 million and earmarked it for the ILO in the fiscal year that ends in September and also gave an 0.61 0.32 1.87 additional $37 million to the DOL’s child labor education ini- Vendors: 108.21 Textiles: 123.14 tiatives for fiscal year 2003 and Index base of 100 is 2004, according to a labor offi- keyed to closing prices cial who requested anonymity. of Dec. 31, 2002. At least six of the DOL’s child 0.56 1.69 Continued on page 4 3 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 3, 2003 , will insists . “She’s Jade Tom Monroe Despite his — along for the Cheap-chic retailer Cheap-chic , a former contestant Roberto Cavalli Daisy Fuentes Fernanda Tavares Head divestiture will be Assisi head retail outlet business as stage a return appearance for stage a return appearance and The retailer will be putting The retailer plans to continue will “We not try to expand the John Payne, senior vice pres- Under the agreement, Tropical As reported, Tropical, in So what brings him back to the Cavalli packed a few extra As for what it takes to capture the Eva Duringer about 30 percent of Goody’s busi- ness and, according to a re- search note from Merrill Lynch analyst Virginia Genereux, Goody’s was responsible for about three-quarters of Duck Head’s wholesale volume. some marketing muscle behind its new Duck Head brand. “We’ll put millions of dollars behind the label, plus in-store fixturing, just like the great brand that Duck Head is,” said Goodfriend. the four licenses acquired from Tropical, including deals for shoes, eyewear and accessories, as well as a Japanese license. license until mid- to late-2004. Once we get a couple of lines under our , we will take that product and license it Europe,” said Goodfriend. into ident of men’s, will become sen- ior vice president and brand manger of the Duck Head busi- ness and report to Max Jones, Goody’s executive vice presi- dent of merchandising. will continue to sell existing Duck Head inventory for a period of time and Goody’s will purchase certain remaining inventory. said January, it would exit its Duck leases expire. With the sale of the trademark, the closures will be ac- celerated and a substantial portion of the $4 million in proceeds from the Duck used for the exit. The 13 remain- ing retail outlet stores are now slated to go dark by November. ride. To be lensed by be lensed ride. To kimono evening suit priced at $3,945. evening suit priced kimono VALUES: FAMILY Hennes & Mauritz’s upcoming fall & Mauritz’s Hennes will be a pure advertising campaign Not only will family affair. friends’ jokes, Jagger after starring in the Swedish firm campaign, this time their fall 2000 — bringing her two daughters she’s Amber break in mid- the campaign will said August. An H&M spokeswoman another famous mother-daughter duo is expected to appear in the they campaign, but was mum, since have yet to confirm. MR. PERSONALITY: not trying to find a new wife by he’s Miss Universe judging tonight’s said contest in Panama. The designer Monday he remains happily married to whom he first met during an earlier go-round as a judge in 1977. land of evening and ? “First off: I love the very important for me to It’s beauty. be involved in beauty.” one of which dresses for the show, fellow judge don. But he was still working on Miss Universe host so beautiful. I will try to convince Maybe yes, Iher. will do my best.” just , Cavalli said, “Unfortunately, like to give a But I would the beauty. I don’t want to prize for personality. speak about intelligence. Sometimes personality goes with the beauty. exactly how I try to design my That’s clothes. The sexy part of the woman is the personality.” was Robert Goodfriend and LVMH, Sidney Toledano Giancarlo Di Risio ’s first three-day trunk show ’s Karl Lagerfeld Meanwhile, reached in Paris, Fendi ceo Carl Icahn, a mainstay in the With news of the transaction Goody’s also received a boost Both issues trade on the Private label accounts for not available for comment, as in Monday was a national holiday for Prada and a spokesman Italy, to said the company “did not wish comment on such silly allegations.” he had Lagerfeld said it was the first which he heard of the rumor, dismissed as “ridiculous.” He quipped, “I think it [Jil Sander] than would be a bit more expensive at what she could make [working] Fendi.” Lagerfeld said he had renewed ambitions for Fendi now that Dior president will assume extra responsibilities guiding the Rome-based house’s a bad period [at “There was strategy. I think it will over. Fendi]. But it’s now.” improve with Toledano McQUEEN’S KINGS: Alexander McQueen pulled in an store at his New York impressive receipt: $1.1 million in orders for fall merchandise. Among the bestsellers were hooded fur ranging from $3,445 to $8,700, depending on the style; a $1,900 optical suit and a silk faille exchange for a “significant economic exchange for a “significant would allow her contribution,” which company from Prada. to buy back her these newspaper, According to the the “cooling rumors highlight Fendi’s relationship” between designer The paper said which controls Fendi. is renovating “the entire LVMH finds structure” of the company and work “too routine-like and tired” the of Lagerfeld, who has been designing Fendi since 1965. tions,” said the ceo. “There’s not a not talk- secondary agenda. We’re ing to anybody. We’re just going to explore the alternatives.” world of mergers and acquisi- tions, who earlier this year noted there were some good investment opportunities in retail and appar- el, upped his stake in Tropical to 920,000 shares, or 8.3 percent, of the common stock as of May 5. Roughly a month earlier, Icahn held 7.3 percent of the shares. and the search for strategic op- tions there was some good news on the market front. Shares of Tropical shot up $1.27, or 21.8 per- cent, to close at $7.11 on Monday. This made for a market cap of $78.5 million at the end of trading. from investors, who drove shares of the firm up 48 cents, or 7.1 per- cent, to $7.25. This made for a market cap of $236.1 million. Nasdaq exchange. Jil . Nicole Robert Penélope There is Lauren ’s “Dogville” ’s ’s “Birth.” ’s Patrizio Bertelli Duck Head has This time, she clearly Lars von Trier contretemps at thecontretemps at Council of from another benefit for the , even now that the designer is ’s production of “The Human ’s Jonathan Glazer ’s attendance was announced, ’s This year, Kidman was to receive Kidman This year, Adding another chapter to the Robert Goodfriend, chairman “The strongest area in our busi- Claiming its market capitaliza- want “We to grow our busi- “There are all kinds of op- NO, NO NICOLE: After last year’s didn’t make it. Kidman Fashion of America Fashion Designer the actress phantom or not, Awards, unfortunate news had to deliver the she would not be on Monday that big event night’s able to attend the after being called back to Los Angeles to reshoot scenes for Benton Kidman reportedly Stain.” (Last year, balked from attending after Cruz although her publicists have firmly denied said events.) so Fashion Icon Award, the CFDA’s to line she quickly took to the phones up a stand-in, the logistics of which were something to behold. At press time, the plan was for a PMK than publicist to retrieve none other past Fashion Icon recipient Bacall was to Irish Repertory Theatre. Bacall be chauffeured to the New York Public Library to accept on Kidman’s behalf, then whisked back to her original plans. The connection? Kidman and Bacall became friends while filming two recent projects together — and SLOW NEWS DAY IN MILAN?: no end to the rumors surrounding Sander back at the company she founded and sold to Prada chief The Italian daily Corriere della Sera printed Monday that Sander is in talks Moët Hennessy Louis with LVMH to design the Fendi line in Vuitton Fashion Scoops Fashion Goody’s Buys Duck Head Trademarks Head Duck Buys Goody’s Clark Evan By NEW YORK — found a new home at Goody’s Clothing Inc. Family growing saga of stores owning or launching proprietary brands, the 330-door based retailer, in Knoxville, Tenn., acquired the Duck Head trademarks and four related licenses from Tropical International Corp. for $4 million cash. and ceo, in a telephone inter- view, said the Duck Head brand should grow into a $35 million to $40 million business within three years. The men’s offering under the label will be expanded while women’s and kids’ offerings will be added. which Women’s, will launch next spring, could grow to side, he said. the men’s exceed ness is casual women’s sportswear and that’s exactly where the Duck Head brand fits,” said Goodfriend. just “We have mounds of potential side.” on the women’s tion fails to reflect the true value of its business, Tropical retained Merrill Lynch & Co. to assist in evaluating strategic alternatives. ness, we want to enhance our shareholder value and Merrill Lynch is going to tell us the best way to do that,” said president and chief executive Christopher Munday in a telephone interview. Possible avenues for the Tampa, Fla.-based vendor include selling the business, merging with anoth- er company or staying put. — H.H. — said Mariel. “If we did- Men’s Men’s Athletic/Urban: : Seven for all /Pageant: Prom/Pageant: Tiffany Men’s Men’s Tailored: Matteo Bridal: Anjolique Bridal, Children’s Wear: Children’s Michael Wear: Bridge/Designer: Lafayette Men’s Men’s Sportswear: LaCoste Better Classics: Mac & Jac, Young Contemporary: Young Bella Jewelry: R.J. Graziano, Ben- Intimate Apparel: Cosabella, “We want to “We create a new iden- The idea of building a new chairman Bill and Winsor, Winsor said, “Numerous pro- have “We thousands of lines But several sales representa- Karen Anderson, who reps “I think it has foresight and in- But Bernadette Mopera, who Allyson the Siler, local rep for Designs, Panoply and Precious Formals. Maggie Sottero Bridal and Mary’s Bridal. Flora Nikrooz and Fernando Sanchez. 148, De Sentino and David Meister. Amun and Seasonal Whispers. Tianello and Blue Ice. Mankind, AG and FRX. Puma and Fubu. Simon, Trish Scully and Deux Deux. Par and Nat Nast. Dahl, Juicy Couture and Hard Tail. Mass and Jack Victor. tity for the industry in the whole country,” think we n’t could make this new and innovative, then we would Center.” Trade go to the World mart arose in January when the Dallas Market Center Co. an- nounced it planned to close the International Apparel Mart next March and move its 600 tenants to its nearby Trade World Center complex of gift and home show- rooms. The first suggested site for a new apparel mart as an al- ternative to the WTC was shelved because it would not have been ready for occupancy by the time the Apparel Mart closed. chief executive officer of the Dallas dismissed Market Center, the new project. posals for a competing venue have been issued over the course of the history of the Market Center. Dallas committed to a one-million- square-foot project that is already Our key advantage is a under way. 40-year history of delivering prod- uct to buyers in a facility designed as a wholesale marketplace.” tives, including Suzanne Collier, Larry Traub, Gavin Smith and Julie Hall, continued to search for another venue and contacted Brooks Partners. Teenflo and other lines at her KLA showrooms in Los Angeles and Dallas, signed up for the proposed mart. novation,” she said Sunday in her showroom at the Apparel Mart. also shows contemporary lines in both cities, was worried that the new venture might not draw enough buyers and had signed up for space in the WTC. signed a nonbinding letter Poleci, of intent for the downtown site, but noted that Poleci’s owners had not yet made a final decision. The Dallas Market Contemporary sales

Classics, After 5 and Denim Accessories: Donald J. After 5: Chetta B, Kay Contemporary: Cynthia

A panel of fashion journalists, The nominees are: On Friday, On developer Friday, Brook John Sughrue, chief executive Sughrue, who developed the After guests saw Beck’s but- Brook Partners will start Unger and Rickie Freeman for Jon Nites. Teri

and expanding men’s wear from a single category into three: Men’s Tailored, Men’s Athletic/Urban and Men’s Sportswear. trend experts and representatives of industry associations picked the nominees in 15 categories, but winners will be determined through a vote of buyers who shop at the International Apparel Mart. They’ll receive their trophies at a formal gala at the Mart on Oct. 26 during spring market week. DFA Nominees Announced Nominees DFA DALLAS — Center announced 42 finalists in its 28th Awards annual Dallas Fashion competition. The DMC changed the categories a bit, adding Better

Another Mart Option Mart Another Haber Holly By DALLAS — Dallas Reps Offered Reps Dallas representatives who show here are weighing yet another pro- posal to build a fashion mart downtown less than three miles from the Dallas Market Center. Partners offered to invest $4 million to $5 million to create a stylish showplace for fashion in a five-story building in the city’s Arts District. But it remains un- certain whether enough reps and manufacturers will sign up to make the new mart a reality. officer of Brook Partners, speak- ing to about 75 members of the industry at the proposed site, called Southwestern Plaza, said, “We’re here to convince you that your business will not only suc- ceed here, it will charged. If be this group comes into turbo this building, we want this to be a blue-chip center.” Magnolia Theatre arts cinema at West Village here, made his pitch in the slick headquarters of the Beck Group construction company on the building’s fifth floor in order to give visitors an idea of what the mart could look like. terfly-shaped drop ceilings and curved, boldly colored walls, Sughrue presented a video virtu- al tour of the proposed mart in which each showroom front had translucent panels that pivoted open on an axis. The rooms would be arranged in a racetrack pattern on the first two 50,000- square-foot floors of the building. Temporary trade shows could be held in the 30,000-square-foot basement. Beck would handle design and building. work if it receives let- “executed ters of intent” totaling 50,000 square feet. So 30 far, sales reps have signed nonbinding letters of intent for about 40,000 square feet in the project, according to Federico Mariel, a Dallas rep and a lead proponent. Pliner, Pliner, Streets Ahead Biasia. Francesco and Steffe, Joie and Trina Turk. Steffe, Joie and Trina 4

2003 DOL Report Reveals Peggy Moffitt’s Rudi Dream 3,

Continued from page 2

JUNE A reissued collection is an in-

, Rampant Child Labor teresting next chapter for the Continued from page 2 “While the increase in ratifica- endlessly forward-looking de- labor projects from 1995 to 2002 tion of ILO conventions and the signer who once said: “To desire UESDAY

T have included efforts to reduce strengthening of labor laws are the past is to negate the present abuse in footwear, apparel and promising, there remain signifi- and the future as well.” textile production. cant gaps in many governments’ But as his most fervent cham-

WWD, At least 20 countries abuse ability to implement their commit- pion, Moffitt remembers well child labor in the production of ments to eliminate the worst forms her friend’s disillusionment one or more of the following: tex- of child labor,” the report states. with the industry, which went on tiles (including cotton harvesting Linda Golodner, president of to the next young thing as the and leather tanning), apparel, the National Consumers’ League, Seventies began. “We believed JONES jewelry (gold and diamond min- which formed the Coalition on fashion by nature is destroying ing) and footwear, according to the Child Labor 10 years ago, said, the past,” she said.

report. They include Argentina, “The fact that the DOL does a re- In a year of the revival of the APODACA Bangladesh, Bulgaria, Chile, the port like this puts countries on mini, cylinder and bold ROSE

Y

Ivory Coast, Croatia, Egypt, Ethio- notice to look at incidents of child graphic prints, Dennita Sewell, B pia, Guatemala, Guinea, , labor. If these reports weren’t curator for the mu-

Indonesia, Mali, Morocco, Paki- done, it could mean business as seum, said of Moffitt’s plans that PHOTO stan, Senegal, Swaziland, Turkey, usual in a lot of these countries.” she hopes “people today realize Peggy Moffitt in Rudi Gernreich’s Peggy Moffitt at the opening of “Rudi Venezuela and Zimbabwe. Despite these ongoing pro- how shocking they were at the “Rouault” , in a 1971 Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, William “We note in the introduction to grams, some labor and human time, how future-minded they photo by William Claxton. Claxton,” at the Phoenix Art Museum. the report there has been an in- rights groups claim the Bush ad- were. Mr. Gernreich’s designs crease in awareness about child ministration is backing away have become so much a part of “This is not a retrospective or “If you consider clothes as labor, especially the worst forms, from the Clinton administra- the modern clothing vocabulary.” a comprehensive survey of the roles to play, Rudi produced the since 1999,” said a labor official tion’s efforts to tie labor provi- His “No ,” a structureless clothes or photographs,” she best goddamn roles for me,” who requested anonymity. “We sions to trade benefits in free- transparent triangle bra that noted. “It presents their interac- Moffitt told the standing-room- are also encouraged to note the trade agreements. As a case in greets visitors to the show, re- tion together and how special a only audience during the lec- commitment to eliminating the point, the U.S. recently wrapped sembles contemporary versions collaboration can be. Each one is ture, which also ran the award- worst forms of child labor seems up a controversial bilateral tex- by vendors from The Gap to an artist in his or her own right. winning short “Basic Black.” to be gaining momentum.” tile agreement with Vietnam and . Together they created something Featuring Moffitt and other But the official also acknowl- did not tie trade preferences to Sewell, who actively stages no one person could have done.” Gernreich models and filmed edged there are many barriers labor improvements. four to six fashion exhibitions at Fourteen Gernreich looks, as and directed by Claxton, it in- to implementation, including Labor Secretary Elaine Chao the museum each year, said she well as the Pierre Cardin zip-up formed future fashion and music poverty, and a lack of financial has maintained that trade agree- aimed to showcase the trio’s col- suit he wore for the 1967 cover videos. resources makes governments ments that contain sanctions to laboration, something she be- of Time magazine (proclaiming The pair regaled the crowd more hesitant to enforce laws or enforce labor and environmental lieved was lacking in previous “The mini is here to stay — with tales, sometimes irreverent- implement programs. provisions are ineffective. showcases of Gernreich or ’til spring, anyway”), are on dis- ly recalled. Asked about her Claxton. (Prior to joining the play, as are 50 Claxton-shot color muse status, Moffitt even ques- Phoenix Art Museum three years and black and white portraits of tioned the label. “It seems nowa- ago, Sewell managed the Gern- Moffitt, arms, face and body pro- days, if you walk across the street reich collection at the Metro- jecting according to the spirit of with a designer, you’re called a Champion Steps Up politan Museum of Art). the clothes. muse. I am not a-mused.”

running within 10 days of my said. “This was achieved with great National Advertising leaving?” he said. So why did he go? success — even our competitors Because the Wallpaper look and its confirmed it. In addition, he advised MEMO PAD ilk has reached the end of the road, us on certain products. Now his it seems. “We believe that luxury work is finished, but it’s possible HIRING: Bruce Pask, the freelance and lifestyle marketing needs to that we’ll contact him to help us on stylist who has been working become much smarter,” Torstensson upcoming projects.” extensively with Annie Leibovitz on said. “The consumer is not really And it’s true that Brulé still has the “The Sopranos” campaign and responding to just a look of friends in very fashionable places various cover shoots for Vanity , sophistication anymore.” that approve of his signature look. is the latest to join the so-called Wink officials declined comment When Brulé’s old friend, Vittorio “Lucky for Men” start-up being for this story. Radice, left Selfridges for Marks & edited by Ariel Foxman. He’s heading Several past and present Wink earlier this year, Wink’s to the new imprint at the end of clients, meanwhile, continue to voice contract for Selfridges’ house June as style director. their admiration for Brulé while magazine went with him, but now An image from Meanwhile, a possible title has effacing the work Wink did for them. Wink has been hired to design the Champion’s new surfaced for the magazine. According RJR Reynolds, one of the agency’s catalogs, publicity and advertising “Greed vs. Love” to a source, a “working title” is first clients, has canceled Wink’s for the company’s first freestanding campaign. Cargo. Editorial director James “CML” custom publication for Camel store, known as Marks & Spencer Truman also had been kicking around cigarettes, but a company Lifestore. Brulé & Wink also will the idea of calling it Jake, but spokeswoman insisted “we may well control the image of and develop the seemed to cool on the idea because decide in six months to rethink that. concept of Lifestore itself, the NEWYORK — For the first politan and Runner’s World. of the similar sounding “Jaqk,” Who knows what will happen in the company said. — Greg Lindsay time, Champion Athleticwear Champion has spent be- another men’s upstart that centered future, but we do have an ongoing has launched a national TV tween $10 million and $20 mil- on gambling. A spokeswoman for relationship with Wink.” HELP WANTED: Anyone dying to work and print brand campaign. lion on the campaign, said Condé Nast declined comment on its Ditto at Williams-Sonoma, which for Graydon Carter? Send in your With the tag line “Greed vs. Robert Hall, president and name. — Jacob Bernstein commissioned Wink to create the résumés! Carter’s longtime Love,” the ads are aimed at chief executive officer of PB Teen magalog for its Pottery assistant, Punch Hutton, is moving consumers who love sports for Champion Athleticwear, a divi- CLEAN DESIGN, MESSY SITUATION: When did the “Wallpaper look” Barn chain. After taking receipt of up and his second assistant, Matt their purity, not for their high- sion of Sara Lee Corp. In re- the agency’s typically clean, post- Trainor, is moving out. Hutton will ly paid professional athletes. cent years, Champion centered from highly desired to simply distantly admired? Whenever it was, Wallpaper work on the project, become an associate editor for the The Winston-Salem, N.C.- its ads on new products or its Pottery Barn executives decided the magazine, editing the Fanfair based brand picked Publicis affiliation with the National Tyler Brulé seems to have missed it, and his consultancy Winkreative is work was so off-message they section with Anne Fulenwider. She in Dallas to develop the cre- Basketball Association and the promptly altered it beyond replaces John Gillies, who recently ative, which plays off the National Football League. The paying the price. In April, Brulé discovered he’d recognition, a source said. Now moved to fellow Condé Nast imprint pride people feel when they company has parted ways with Pottery Barn has issued a new GQ. “It’s everything that I love and achieve their personal and fit- both professional leagues. been betrayed by the creative director he’d plucked out of design request for proposals on how to it’s supposed to have its pulse on ness goals. “We’re taking a new direc- rebuild it from scratch. A company everything that’s smart and cool,” The campaign premieres tion. We wanted to make sure school, Erik Torstensson, who, along with account manager Jen Grede, was spokeswoman declined comment. said an elated Hutton by phone. FYI today on broadcast and cable all our consumers are aware But the biggest blow to Brulé’s to potential applicants: Carter likes TV, with 15-second and 30-sec- of the fact the brand has caught trying to cajole clients into leaving Wink for the rival consultancy aesthetic has been Swiss, the airline his coffee black. — J.B. ond spots featuring images of changed,” Hall said. “We’re he branded from the logo on up last athletic women and men with about the love of sports, not they planned to start, two sources close to Wink said. Both were forced year that put Wink on the map. All TOPIC B: Jann Wenner and Maer the tag line “Be Your Own the greed.” that style hasn’t prevented the Roshan will be appearing on Tina Champion.” Print ads focusing Ted Barton, president of to resign and sure enough, within two weeks, had launched Saturday, an airline from jettisoning the jet-set Brown’s second episode of “Topic on Champion Running will creative at Publicis, said, “It customer he felt it should chase in A,” which is slated to air sometime begin running in July. Champ- communicates that true cham- agency specializing in fashion and luxury goods clients. favor of hand-to-hand combat with this summer on CNBC. Wenner had ion plans to run prints ads in pions put their hearts into low-cost carriers. Chief executive actually been booked for the first magazines including People, everything they do. They play Torstensson denies ever trying to poach Wink clients, and insists he’d André Dosé still stands behind him, episode but had to bail at the last ESPN, Sports Illustrated, Out- because they want to, not be- however. “Tyler Brulé’s main job was minute because it was his night side, Shape, Fitness, Cosmo- cause they have to.” planned to resign all along. “How else would we have Saturday up and to build up the Swiss brand,” he with the kids. — J.B. Shapter ew Andr - hotography P

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AUGUST 25-28, 2003 SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 www.MAGIConline.com WT01 6 2003 3, Roughing Up YSL: New Look JUNE , Continued from page one study in contrasts and reveals a sleek, polished interior with rus- UESDAY

T tic, hand-carved accents. “There’s a rough, handmade quality to the floors and the chis-

WWD, eled wood pieces,” said Ford in a telephone interview from London, where he was putting the finishing touches on his cruise collections for both YSL and Gucci. “The Saint Laurent clothes are so re- fined, yet there is always a hand- made quality to the finishing….I always try to incorporate lots of details in the clothing so that there’s a certain complexity to it. “I wanted the same sort of modernity, but with a handmade feel to some of the pieces in the shop. I also like that some of the polish of the clothes is offset with sort of rough, almost brutal furni- ture pieces and concrete floors.” Of course, brutality in Ford’s world has a certain chicness not usually associated with its typical definitions. But a play on hardness emerges by his juxtaposition of a modern environ of sleek lines, smoky mirrors, white lacquer walls, charcoal accents and Art Deco references with rougher ele- ments such as hand-hewn wood wardrobes, slate-colored concrete floors and ponyskin daybeds in white and black. “I looked through the archives, pictures of Yves’ apartment and thought about my favorite collec- tions at Saint Laurent and the ones that really stuck out, really defined the brand for me,” said Ford. “Throughout his career Yves came back so many times to the Thirties and Forties, which was of course the period he grew up in. YSL's women's ready-to-wear area overlooking 57th Street. For me, that period was the Sixties and Seventies, which was the peri- od I drew upon when I was design- ing the Gucci stores. But YSL’s pe- riod influences of the Thirties and Forties were much more about verticality and skyscrapers and the future. “Saint Laurent for me was about black, night, evening — sexy but in a different way. So when I was designing it, I was very con- scious of making it very YSL, but also very different from Gucci,” said Ford. By tweaking the color palette, using different materials and aim- ing for a narrower, more vertical design aesthetic, Ford and archi- tect William Sofield have managed to keep both brands’ stores unique. Also, in a move that marks a bit of a departure for the designer, Ford has implemented white rooms — to counter the darkness of other YSL stores. “There’s a lot of white in this store which is really in response to our customers. Black is my fa- vorite. The Madison Avenue store has much more black in it, which I personally love. I mean, I live in a black glass house. I really like that,” said the designer. “But we had had comments from a lot of customers that felt it was too dark, so we added some white…there are more white rooms in this store than there were in the first generation [of stores].” Not quite an explosion of color, the bright white rooms, along with the dove gray accents sprinkled throughout the store, should satis- fy naysayers tired of his ultimately chic, but darkened retail enclaves. Yet the design of the 57th Street A ponyskin daybed for slipping on shoes. A corner of men’s wear. store isn’t all about weighty design 7 WWD, T ok Store Opens on 57th Street UESDAY ,

philosophies. It’s also an exercise JUNE in keen business acumen. YSL’s accessories business has grown under Ford’s helm and the compa- 3, ny is making a push to properly 2003 showcase the burgeoning product category. The first floor is made up entirely of accessories, with an array of Nadja and Mombasa bags in varied hues, a nook for YSL Beauté, and a first-ever shoe salon in the back — an exclusive addi- tion to the 57th Street location. The women’s and men’s ready-to- wear collections are situated on the second floor. “Accessories have a big part of our business, which is something I’m very proud of because when I first started there was an amazing history of clothes, obviously, and shoes to a certain extent, but there really wasn’t culturally a YSL vo- cabulary for handbags,” said Ford. “We’ve been able to establish our- selves very quickly as a serious company as well as a clothing company. “Also, the size of the collection has grown so dramatically since we designed the first store, that a large devotion to accessories real- ly allows us the opportunity to show all these things off. There’s also the simple fact that acces- sories have a higher margin and you make more money,” said Ford with a laugh. The YSL store on Madison Avenue was renovated almost two years ago and while the company is pleased with that location, it is anticipating a different customer base for 57th Street. “The nature of upper Madison Avenue is that it tends to be more locally driven and attract more A carved display table in women's. ready-to-wear-oriented cus- tomers,” said Mark Lee, president of Yves Saint Laurent. “So in terms of our long-term strategic goals, in terms of developing hand- bags and shoes and accessories, we felt it was very important to have a prime location such as 57th Street to develop those cate- gories.…It has been designed and laid out with a focus on acces- sories. We expect to capitalize on the tremendous traffic potential, local and tourist, that should exist in that location.” The new store is currently sell- ing the spring-summer collection as well as pre-collection pieces. Retail prices range from $220 to $5,400 for handbags; $1,800 to $2,700 for women’s coats; $1,200 to $3,400 for women’s and $2,600 to $6,800 for dresses. The label is also carried at high-end stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. Lee declined to reveal sales forecasts for the new store. Additional Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche stores are slated to open this summer in Beverly Hills on Rodeo Drive and the Americana in Manhasset, which will have a version of the 57th Street look and bring the number of YSL stores in the U.S. to 10. “When Gucci Group acquired the brand at the end of 1999, we only had two stores in the U.S., both in New York — on Madison Avenue and a men’s store in SoHo,” said Lee, adding the SoHo store has since been closed.

TURNER By the end of the year, there ID

V will be 59 YSL stores, according A D

Y to Lee, with new and renovated B shops opening in Rome, Paris, Hong Kong, London and

The store's exclusive shoe salon. A view of the first floor from the store's entrance. PHOTOS Singapore. 8 Textile & Trade Report 2003 3,

JUNE DuPont Ups

, Deals Create Customs Concerns By Scott Malone Canada Bid UESDAY

T NEW YORK — The slew of trade-preference pacts the U.S. has struck with countries in NEW YORK — In an effort to Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa and the entice shareholders of its

WWD, Middle East for the past few years has creat- Canadian unit to part with ed many opportunities for apparel economies their holdings, DuPont on to find new production options and for devel- Monday upped its offer for oping nations to find economic growth. the shares of DuPont Canada But they’ve also created new options for it does not own. companies that want to cheat the quota system. Acquiring the 24 percent “The government has significant concerns stake in DuPont Canada that about textiles and apparel coming in illegal- the Wilmington, Del.-based ly from restricted markets,” said Richard J. parent company does not Wilson, an import specialist with the Bureau already own is one of the of Customs & Border Protection, at a forum pieces of financial house- sponsored by the & keeping DuPont wants to com- Footwear Association and U.S. Commercial plete before selling or spin- Service in Manhattan last week. He said the ning off its DuPont Textiles & pacts offer “an extra incentive for those peo- Interiors unit by the end of ple who don’t want to work aboveboard.” the year, as reported. That’s one reason for the meticulous DuPont raised its offering attention that Customs is paying to the price to $21.75 a share and paperwork accompanying apparel being extended the period during imported into the U.S. under the Caribbean The Bureau of Customs & Border which it will buy those shares Basin Trade Partnership Act, the African Protection has stepped up its focus to June 16. The previous offer Growth & Opportunity Act and Andean on imports from countries covered by was for $21 a share. This also Trade Promotion & Drug Eradication Act. free-trade agreements, due to the marks the second extension Wilson and other speakers at the event heightened possibility of fraud. of the offer period, which was focused on how legitimate importers can originally to end May 23 and avoid having their shipments detained by was extended to June 9. Customs and how, if they are detained, to In a statement, John P. handle that situation quickly and properly. Jessup, DuPont’s vice presi- Beth Ring, a partner at the trade law firm dent and treasurer, said the of Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg, who is based teams,” to inspect factories. he said, “Eighty to 90 percent of the workers revised offer was “final.” in New York, said importers should insist The best way importers can avoid being don’t know how to sew, or their machines are “Whatever the outcome of their suppliers take great care in preparing sold illegally transshipped goods, he said, is going, but they’re not loaded with thread.” the tender offer, we will proceed the certificates of origin they must have to keep a close eye on their suppliers and If a factory draws a visit from a jump with our previously announced when their goods arrive in port. use some common sense. He pointed out a team and there’s evidence that the factory separation of DTI on the cur- “Customs routinely asks, particularly in few cases that should obviously raise an has transshipped merchandise, it’s likely rent timetable,” Jessup said. Miami,” she said. importers’ suspicions — and that would like- that Customs also will start detaining goods DuPont has acknowledged The certificate of origin must explain the ly prompt an inspection by Customs. it has shipped, said attorney Ring. She point- it is in talks with a third source of all the materials used in the gar- One case is sudden, unexplained price ed out that Customs does not publicly identi- it did not identify about the ments being imported and show that they shifts, he said: “If for some unknown reason, fy the factories it visits, so importers have no sale. According to sources, that comply with the sometimes-complicated it’s dropped from $10 a dozen and now it’s 10 way of knowing a supplier’s factory was vis- party is Wichita, Kan.-based rules of the various trade deals. cents a dozen, something is suspicious.” ited unless they are told so. Koch Industries Inc., though For instance, to qualify for the CBTPA Another case of suspicion would be if a fac- But, she said, if Customs starts detaining DuPont and Koch officials program, a pair of jeans sewn in the tory suddenly starts offering products that shipments from a factory, an importer can have declined to comment. expect that further detentions will follow. DuPont, which owned 76 “It’s mind-boggling, what you have to give to percent of the outstanding get a detained shipment released,” she said. DuPont Canada stock prior to The government has significant concerns about Detained shipments are only released by making the offer, said so far “ Customs if the bureau is presented with doc- shareholders have tendered textiles and apparel coming in illegally from umentation showing from where all the shares representing 5.5 per- materials in the products came and proving cent of the outstanding restricted markets. that each step of manufacturing was com- shares, which would boost its — Richard” J. Wilson, Bureau of Customs & Border Protection pleted where the factory claims it was. That stake to about 81.6 percent. means the bureau expects everything from The company also lowered invoices for fabric to the individual sewing the targeted minimum num- Caribbean would have to be made of denim require different machinery than they had pre- tickets showing when each item in a con- ber of shares it wants to buy woven in the U.S. But if a garment is made of viously. For instance, he said, if a vendor that tainer was completed. through the offering to a level a knitted fabric, the knitting could take place had been supplying fine-gauge knit Ring said once an importer sees a ship- that would bring its total hold- in the Caribbean region, so long as the yarn suddenly offers to sell jeans, “maybe it’s a good ment from a particular factory detained, that ings to 88 percent of outstand- was spun in the U.S. idea to go there and see what’s going on.” importer should ask the supplier to send all ing shares, down from the ear- Wilson said Customs’ key concern is that Wilson underlined the importance of the supporting documentation along with lier targeted minimum of 97.6 Asian fabric producers whose products sending sourcing managers or agents to per- each subsequent order. That at least ends percent of outstanding shares. wouldn’t be eligible for the program will try sonally tour factories from a company who the delay of needing to go back to look for the DuPont Canada includes to transship goods through beneficiary coun- plans to buy, because factories that raise documentation. nylon operations that DuPont tries to work around the quotas. Customs’ suspicions are likely to draw a visit “It must be a condition of your contract,” wants to merge into DTI prior To ensure that isn’t happening, the from a jump team. she said, “that [factories] maintain these to selling it. bureau sends out Textile Procurement & “I can’t tell you the number of times we records for a year from the date they ship the — S.M. Verification Teams, also known as “jump walk into a factory and it’s simply for show,” goods to you.”

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CONE EXTENDS CREDIT: Cone Mills characteristics of textile material , Corp. said Wednesday it had and will be led by faculty members By Tsukasa Furukawa The South American blue morpho JUNE extended its $56 million credit from the university’s School of butterfly inspired Teijin Ltd. to develop

By studying a beautiful South Amer- 3 facilities through March 2004. The Textiles and Materials Technology. TOKYO — a new way of coloring fiber. arrangement had been scheduled to ican butterfly, researchers at textiles giant Teijin , 2003 end on June 27. The facility includes PHATFETE: The retail, fashion and Ltd. have developed a new fiber that can reflect a $25 million 12 percent senior note textile division of The National a radiant color without being dyed. and a $31 million revolving variable- Conference for Community and It works by using nanostructures to affect the rate credit line, on which Cone is Justice awarded Rush way the fiber reflects light. Teijin has named it currently calling about 8.1 percent in Communications chairman and chief Morphotex, after the blue morpho butterfly, increase. The Greensboro, N.C.- executive officer Russell Simmons according to a spokesman. based company also said it settled the 2003 Humanitarian Award at a Researchers discovered the butterfly is cov- $4.1 million in equity appreciation luncheon May 20 at Manhattan’s ered with a dozen layers of microfine, scale-like rights it had granted as part of an Grand Hyatt Hotel. Simmons powder that creates “structural color” through earlier credit agreement, paying off founded the Phat Farm clothing line optical interference. the rights at half face value in cash, in 1998 and runs Phat Fashions, The layers on the butterfly are arranged like along with stock and other which includes the women’s line, an extraordinarily small forest of cedar trees, compensation. As a result of the Baby Phat. The NCCJ also honored creating a network of alternating branches and settlement, the company expects to Keith Nagy, director of filament at air layers. On the fiber, that idea is translated record a $4.1 million charge to its Celanese Acetate, with the 2003 into a multilayered thin film. second-quarter earnings. retail, fashion and textile leadership The Morphotex fiber is a conjugated yarn of Chief financial officer Gary award. Textile industry executives nanofine nylon and polyester Smith said the credit extension including Saxon Textile Corp. polymers, designed to form an “provides the time necessary to president Gail Strickler, De Marco optical structure akin to the but- evaluate potential business California principal Pearl Ann Marco, terfly’s. In developing it, Teijin opportunities that would allow us to Tencel vice president Ellen Flynn researchers studied the relation- execute our long-term vision and and Textile Distributors Association ships between wavelength of propose a comprehensive plan for a executive director Bruce Roberts color, intensity of color, refraction, long-term capital structure.” attended the annual luncheon, thickness of layer and number of LAB among others. layers needed. TEXTILES 101: Philadelphia “What we’re doing is The fiber is available in filament CHECK mixed into other materials to make golf University will host Basic Textiles, a acknowledging a worthwhile or in powder form in four colors: club shafts, cosmetics and other products. seminar to provide an introduction cause,” said Roberts, who emceed red, blue, green and purple. It can be used in fab- The research originally started some years ago to textile products from raw the luncheon. “You’re not born to rics for apparel applications including suits, for- as a three-way project of Teijin, Nissan Motor Co. material through finished fabrics, bigot. We have to educate the malwear and , the spokesman suggested. and Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo K.K., a leading pre- on its campus June 23-27. Part of public for tolerance.” Commercial production will begin in July at the cious metals trading and retail company in Asia. SCHAFER/CORBIS the school’s Continuing and Since charity is not always rate of 6,600 pounds a month, and the “price will be Nissan was probing a principle of structural KEVIN Professional Studies, the seminar is enough, Roberts said, this year’s higher than that of silk,” the spokesman said. The color on the morpho butterfly as part of its study Y recommended by the school for honorees were chosen for the time price of silk yarn can exceed $40 a pound. on biomimetics for possible application to interi- B management personnel and and effort they’ve given to promoting The company has no immediate plans to ors and exteriors of automobiles, while Tanaka PHOTO trainees employed in textile and diversity with their companies, export the product. took charge of developing metal nozzles needed Y apparel-related fields. The program, communities and families. The structural color fiber in powder form can be for the production of the nanofine fiber. TERFL BUT Quota : Going Fast The Moore Company Textile Group

t the end of May, eight countries had consumed more than 59 percent Manufacturers of Stretch Warp Knit Aof their total quota allocation for the year in 10 categories. and Macau quickly filled their swimwear quota categories to more than 70 percent, though it is too early to tell whether those categories will embargo Fabrics and Woven Narrow Elastic since swimwear is seasonal and shipments could slow down substantially after summer, according to Donald Foote, director of the agreements Swimwear division at the Commerce Department’s Office of Textiles and Apparel. But • Innovative Concepts the , Bangladesh and Myanmar all had high fill rates in the trouser and category, which is not as seasonal and could • High-Tech embargo before the end of the year. • High Quality USAGE COUNTRY PRODUCT QUOTA LIMIT TO DATE* • Consistent Performance MACAU Swimwear 231,969 kg 77.6% Intimates UNITED ARAB EMIRATES Cotton 387,826 dozen 74.7% CHINA Swimwear 699,762 kg 73.3% BANGLADESH Cotton trousers and shorts 3.73 million dozen 70.1% MYANMAR Man-made fiber trousers and shorts 26,342 dozen 66.2% Sportswear SRI LANKA Cotton and man-made fiber dresses 655,453 dozen 66.1% INDIA Knit and 5.1 million dozen 63.8% Activewear INDIA Cotton and man-made fiber 402,569 dozen 61.2% HONG KONG Cotton T-shirts and tank tops 2.3 million dozen 61.1% SRI LANKA Cotton trousers and shorts 1.5 million dozen 59.3% Medical/Surgical SOURCE: DONALD FOOTE, DIRECTOR OF THE AGREEMENTS DIVISION AT THE COMMERCE DEPARTMENT’S OFFICE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL * USAGE TO DATE IS AS OF MAY 27

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Los Angeles Los Angeles New York: (212) 382-1170 Phone: (323) 255-9705 Phone: (310) 354-8058 Los Angeles: (213) 623-5002 Fax: (323) 255-9893 Fax: (310) 354-8068 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 3, 2003 s agl a eut f h linger- the of result a largely is This exporting. in volume total their of percentage greater a do most indeed, and, markets eign for- to links strong have ready on theinternationalstage. themselves for name a make can designers Korean backing, this whether,be all will with test true The out.” starting “We’rejust out, pointed Association Fashion 10 years,”hesaid. next the over designers] Korean [for market primary the be will officialJeffKim. Ministry neighbor,western Commerce said their to looking are designers Korean more grows, consumers ing China. ever-grow- and Europe U.S., the as such markets, larger in cess suc- find designers the that is try city backstheindustry,” saidKang. the that important is it so fashion, Kang ByungWoo. official city to year,according next percent 30 to 20 by tures expendi- fashion its increase to in overseascollections. participate can they so signers de- five to up sponsor will ment govern- the Project,” Promotion to 40percent. 30 by industry the on spending increase to plans government the year, Next either. spending, on back cut to plans no are there And Commerce. the of of Ministry Kim Jeff to cording ac- industry, fashion the on year this million $2.4 about spending government. city Seoul the and Korea South of government the of backing the is it for going has here try nese buyerstofutureshows. Japa- attracting of hopes in tion FashionAssocia- Japan the with contact in is KFA instance, For efforts. promotion of because the warinIraq,”hesaid. and Kong Hong in SARS Korea, North with problem nuclear the as such — outside and try coun- our of inside situations of because event the at presence al press onvariousglobalcrises. and buyers international of lack the blames Association, Fashion for manyfirms. block building critical a is which audience, international an of much attract to failed it — shows the for sold were tickets 70,000 — help promoteit. garnered $167,000fromthecityto and presentation, fashion-week unified a in shown had signers de- the time first the was It Store. Department Lotte and Shopping Home LG Mercedes-Benz, as such sponsors corporate and ments, govern- city Seoul and national the associations; fashion three by effort group a was designers, ean global audience. and presentitsclothestoamore markets international in self it- promote to striving been has which industry, fashion Korean the showcased Week Collection — SEOUL By David Hall Seoul Seeking a Higher Designer Profile Some Korean designers al- designers Korean Some Koreathe of Chan Song Kim As “WeChina….It on focus to need Chinese of power buying the As indus- the for important Also Koreanof center the is “Seoul plans government city Seoul’s “Worldits of Designer part As is government national The indus- fashion the thing One optimistic remains Kim But internation- little was “There Koreanthe of Chan, Sung Kim turnout public big the Despite Kor- 48 featuring event, The The recent Seoul recent The that about 74 percent of her of percent 74 about that altogether.reports tribution She dis- domestic stopped she that WonPark Ji for business tive to China. travel his increase to hopes he FashionChina Weeksays he and in part take to invited was he November, Last Song. Han said Korea. in sold is million $1 Another Arabia. Saudi and Kong,Europe Hong China, U.S., the to going goods in million $5 about of total combined a with product, New York feeltothem,”hesays. his designs. New York hadabiginfluenceon added hismother. and theother, multicolored.” color single] [a side one with , baseball a was It item. the made and sketch the saw mother “My recalled. Song Han sketch,” a made I and swatches fabric the all around room er’s] by chance. happened fashion to switch The YorkUniversity.New at science political studying track, ferent this linewithhismother. on working continue to plans but well, as line couture a signs de- Song Han line. clothing a on together worked have son and mother that time first the sents turned into10years.” that but months, few a for stay to planned YorkI New 1980s. the in to went I Korea, in line wear for afewyears. Tower Trump in outpost smaller another had she and Street, 66th East on shop a had she Nineties, mid- to mid-Eighties the from stretching decade a For scene. YorkNew fashion the to stranger no is years, 30 some for business fashion the in veteran a Cho, Song. Han son, her and Cho Troa by designed line ready-to-wear a Troa, is business national started inthelateNineties. that crisis financial Asian ing and HanSong. Troa Cho Troa by Exports became such a lucra- a such became Exports important,” very is “China its of most exports firm The a have do I things the think “I in years his says Song Han way,”that designs still “He moth- [my in was I day “One dif- a on out started Song Han repre- collection Troa The ready-to- my up set I “After Among thefirmswithaninter- that doesn’t match.” nothing there’s world, this “In what theywore.” choose to ability the have n’t did- They match. didn’t clothes their — backs their on clothes the had only who Afghanistan in people and Iraqis at “Looking theme. mix-and-match her inspire helped turmoil political foreign markets. in ground lost regain to mined deter- is Jin But cuts. make to forced was she hit, crisis and Europecombined. U.S. the in stores 31 in tured fea- were clothes Her there. tained anofficeandashowroom main- and Paris in year a twice collections showed she 1997, to Teok.FromJin designer 1993 on tions threetimes. collec- Porter à Prêt Paris the in participated has He percent. 20 about have each Europe Eastern and U.S. the percent, 25 takes East Middle the exports, his of percent 35 about France,takes particularly WesternEurope, year.last exported $162,000 about with business, overseas tiny a has domestically,business million be somuchofanincrease.” won’t there year this but sons, sea- past in doubling been have “Sales region. the in and Korea in problems economic of pact able inKorea. avail- readily are they because woman iswearingthem,”shesaid. a when beautiful be should hanger,the on beautiful they look in combinationwithjeans. chiffon, as such light, something using sometimes designs, her in also aclient. School ofDesigninNewYork. Parsons at studied who Park, said clothes,” my of out sold are business isabout$1.2million. total Her countries. other to cent totheU.K.,andbalance per- 5 about France, to percent 6 almost U.S., the to go goods Jin says she then realized: then she says Jin global of scenes , This financial region’s the When toll a taken have Toughtimes $8 an has who Bong, Sang Lie im- the felt has she said Park mainly fabrics, silk uses She don’tdon’tclothes “I my if care contrast features often Park is London in Nichols Harvey they me tells always “Barneys Choon Moo Park June. all keycosmeticcounters inmid- infrared rays.Theywill beinuseat without anybodycontact using person’s temperaturetobetaken members. Thescannerenablesa about 180piecesfromallAPCD $200 eachandthere’s anorderof handheld scannerscostabout department storesector. The their keycounters,thefirstin for allcosmetichousestouseat ordered handheldthermalscanners product testing. disposable cosmeticapplicatorsfor cosmetic countersareusingonly disinfectant everyhour. Also,all and wipingthecounterwith before andafterservingcustomers check, theuseofhandsanitizers include atwice-dailytemperature customer contactprocedures over,” saidOba. day-to-day routineuntilthecaseis care andcustomersafetyinour would wanttoincorporatecustomer However, it’s notoveryetandwe seem tobeincontrolnow. APCD tokeepfightingtheepidemic. Care” campaignisthenextstepby APCD, saidthe“We’re Cool.We SARS, Takafumi Oba,presidentof procedures issuedpreviouslytofight standard customercontact smiling flowerdesign.Addingtothe specially designedbadgewitha temperature checkaretoweara cosmetic counterswhopassadaily consultants atdepartmentstore During thecampaign,allbeauty department storesalesperiod. around theendofMay a “We’re Cool.We Care”campaign Distribution inSingaporeisstarting Perfumes andCosmetics SARS SAFETY: meeting.” new developmentuntilthis meeting thisweekandthereisno this importantissue.There’s a approach thenextstepandresolve Swiss governmentonhowto Basel showisindiscussionswiththe NewYork said,“The the Baselfairin estimated $1.3million.Anofficialof industry haslostordersworthan Analysts saythatsofarthisyear, the spent $3.7milliononBaselworld. in theAprilshow. TheTDCalone that werenotallowedtoparticipate and the313HongKongcompanies money wouldcompensatetheTDC for $9millionindamages.The of theBaselWatch andJewelryFair that itwassuingtheSwissorganizers losses, theTDCannouncedlastweek season. To recoupsomeofthe coincided withtheindustry’s buying blow bySARSastheoutbreak watchmakers weredealtaserious Hong Kong’s jewelryand appears tobetheleasthardhit, the lastquarterof2003.” likely pickupstronglyonlytowards linger onforawhile,andexportswill repercussion ofSARSisexpectedto Hong Kongexports.Butthe Kong suppliers,shouldbodewellfor renewed marketingeffortsofHong by overseasbuyers,coupledwiththe Leung said,“Resumptionoftraveling percent growthpreviouslyforecast. quarter oftheyear, downfromthe4 only 3.3percentgrowthinthelast Edward Leungsaidthatheexpects growth. TheTDC’s chiefeconomist downward itsforecastforexport Development Councilrevised SLOW MOTION: In addition,theAPCDhas The association’s current “The SARSsituationmight While theclothingindustry — KojiHirano SAWATCH ASIA — ConstanceHaisma-Kwok The Associationof The HongKongTrade unveiled. few shoo-ins—areexpected tobe director JohnWoo —tonamea Chan, ChowYun-fat, JetLiand such HongKongstarsasJackie the handprintsandsignaturesof the sidewalkinApril2004,when month. Tourists canexpecttoview and willgetunderwaynext The projectwillcost$5.1million contribution tolocalmoviemaking. stars whohavemadeasignificant luminaries, aswellinternational Stars willhonorlocalfilmindustry tourism district,theAvenue of Tsimshatsui, HongKong’s premier Hollywood. To belocatedin walk offameakintothat locals backtoshopsandrestaurants. performances, designedtoentice including streetfairsand numerous communityevents, business andpoliticalleaders prominent HongKongmedical, heavy advertising,visitsabroadby Hong Kongforafriendlymatch. club Liverpoolalsowilltravelto SARS fears.FamedEnglishsoccer April, butcanceledbecauseof concerts inHongKongandChina was scheduledtoplaynumerous group TheRollingStones.latter heartthrob RickyMartinandrock City RudolphGiuliani,Latin Clinton, formermayorofNewYork list areformerU.S.PresidentBill Among thosesaidtobeontheinvite politics, sportsandentertainment. profile luminariesfromtheworldsof calls forvisitstoHongKongbyhigh- Morning Postreportedthattheplan confirmed, TheSouthChina provides incentivesfortravelers. package thatpromotesthecityand announced a$128.2million end, theHongKonggovernment to comebackHongKong.To that everyone’s lipsishowtogettourists to beundercontrol,thequestionon COME VISIT: exchange rates. figures areconvertedatcurrent wear dropped5.7percent.Dollar dropped 3.4percent,whilemen’s chain stores.Salesofwomen’s wear revenues ofthecountry’s 8,798 accounted for13.8percentofall association said.Apparelsales percent fromApril2002,the month, apparelsalesdropped5.2 and rainatthebeginningof to lower-than-normal temperatures Japan ChainStoresAssociation.Due from ayearago,accordingtothe percent to$10.2billioninApril chain storesinJapandropped2.6 WEAKENING CHAINS: price was$2.18. to $2.62inFebruary. InApril,the year from$2.50perkiloinJanuary which surgedatthebeginningof has beenthepriceofpolyester, nonexistent inApril.Anotherfactor Hong Kongwerevirtually Korean exportsofpolyesteryarnto in JanuaryandFebruary. And dramatically inMarchafterbeingup when exportstoChinafelloff percent aloneinthefirstquarter. the year. ExportstotheU.S.fell50 volume inthefirstfourmonthsof sales weredownnearly15percentin Korea’s texturedpolyesteryarns.Yarn sharp declineinsalesofSouth SARS epidemic,haveresultedina with higherpolyesterpricesandthe Asia’s textileproduction,coupled POLYESTER DIP: Plans alsowererevealedfora The spendingpackagecallsfor The impactofSARSwasevident Although detailshavenotbeen — C.H.K. Now thatSARSseems The slowdownin — K.H. — C.H.K. Total salesof 11 Ready-to-Wear Report WWD, T UESDAY , Dressed to Sell JUNE 3

David Meister, Diane Von Furst- had a lot of that inspiration, as , By Joshua Greene 2003 enberg, Tracy & Michael, Tracey did Moschino Cheap & Chic,” NEW YORK — When Louis Reese and Nanette Lepore have said Burke. “They had flirty Vuitton opened its spring runway been among Neiman’s sellers. dresses with a great mix of pat- show with a train of candy-col- According to Shauna Stein, tern, color and ruffles.” ored satin daytime dresses, it owner of On Beverly Boulevard At Janet Brown, Pucci, Bar- was a clear sign the category was in Los Angeles, European brands bara TFank, Petite Thérese and in for a bright season at retail. including Roberto Cavalli, Rohka are selling through at a According to retailers in New Blumarine and Ungaro Fuchsia rate close to 100 percent, accord- York — where the weather has are her best-selling dresses this ing to Brown. been anything but favorable for season. Since so many junior Prim and proper styles à la dresses — as well as boutiques brands that distribute in Los Jacqueline Kennedy and Grace and department stores around Angeles jumped on the vintage Kelly to go from day to evening the country, the spring and sum- theme, Stein said she are key, though Brown acknowl- mer dress category is perennially bought dresses that were still edged the category can be diffi- important. For the one-year peri- sexy, but aimed at a slightly older cult to buy since there are so David Meister’s daytime dresses are popular at department stores like Lord od ending in March, the sector customer. many types of dresses. & Taylor and Neiman Marcus. Diane von Furstenberg dresses are solid sellers generated $3.6 billion in sales, ac- “My customers see a lot of “A beautiful dress needs cre- at Scoop. cording to The NPD Group. young-looking things in other ativity to make it beautiful,” said The prevalence of dresses on stores,” said Stein. “So I have to Brown. “Each customer wants a minidress has been a strong sell- Depeche, Ruth, ABS, David the New York, Milan and Paris offer something more mature. A different type of dress. Some- er this season, too. Meister and Betsey Johnson, said runways helped push the cate- dress for daytime is either for a times you have to be Harriette Business at Scoop is up about a spokeswoman. gory into double-digit gains this luncheon or a meeting. Women in Houdini when buying.” 15 percent over last year and At Metairie, La.-based Chatta spring for many stores. L.A. don’t walk around in dresses, At Scoop, owner Stefani the company is operating with Box, buyer and co-owner Re- “Pucci dresses are money in they go somewhere in a dress.” Greenfield said dresses are the leaner inventory, she said. becca Nordgren said her cus- the bank,” said retailer Janet Though Stein said she under- key to a strong spring and sum- “For summer it’s all about the tomer is walking out the door Brown, who owns her eponymous bought the category for spring mer business. Diane Von Fursten- leg — soft and flowy,” said with colorful dresses in light- store in Port Washington, N.Y. “We and summer, her sell-throughs of berg’s long halter chiffon dress Greenfield. “A dress is like a weight fabrics including seer- are selling dresses. My business is what she did buy have been solid. for $295; Theory’s strapless side- handbag. If it’s awesome and has sucker and cotton from lines up about 15 percent for May.” More than half of her $50,000 ruched dress for $195; Marc by value, it will sell out in a minute. such as Kathlin Argiro, Yansi The daytime dress business at order with Roberto Cavalli were Marc Jacobs’ strapless cotton I wish we could find more young Fugel and Poleci. Her floor is Neiman Marcus is ahead 70 per- dresses, she said. sateen for $288 and the striped designers that are dresses first about 40 percent dresses, she cent coming out of the current Overall, her business is up crinkle cotton dress for $258, and and then sportswear rather than said. noting that business is up selling season, according to Amy about 3 percent over last year, Juicy Couture’s $85 cotton terry sportswear with some dresses.” about 5 percent over last year. O’Connor, vice president and di- though Stein said she expected to smock dress sold over Memorial At Lord & Taylor, cotton sateen “Any sundress I get in is visional merchandise manager be up as high as 8 to 10 percent Day weekend in her East dresses in coral and sage contin- going to sell,” said Nordgren. “I of Galleria dresses, who also said since her business is only four Hampton store, even though it ue to be strong sellers, as well as think it’s the designers finally she’ll continue to sell dresses at years old. rained every day. Her private lightweight black cotton dresses. paying attention to what the cus- full price through July. The aver- According to Robert Burke, label Hawaiian-print strapless Top performers include , tomers want.” age price for a daytime dress at vice president and senior fashion Neiman Marcus is between $250 director at Bergdorf Goodman, and $275, she said. Marc by Marc Jacobs, Diane Von “We’re blowing out of the Furstenberg, Tracey Reese and girly, Fifties’ theme,” O’Connor Nanette Lepore are top sellers in said. “We’re selling halter, strap- the contemporary market. less and sheath dresses. At In a larger sense, Burke said Neiman Marcus, we will always the vintage dress trend has been sell dresses at this particular so prevalent for spring and sum- time of the year. But this season, mer because the style lends it- because it was a fashion trend, self to the season’s overall color we captured a customer who and pattern trends better than may have worn sportswear.” other styles. Brands including Kay Unger, “The Marc Jacobs main line An Essential Success NEW YORK — She may have played a healing doctor on TV, but Jane Seymour also knows a thing or two about helping others in real life. On May 22, the actress was in town to launch a new group of career apparel called Essentially Jane. It is an offshoot from the Jane Seymour Signature Collection, which is distrib- uted by Crossing Pointe, a catalog and e-commerce Web site owned by Warren, Pa.-based Blair Corp. Blair Corp.’s senior vice president Seymour and Blair teamed up Robert Crowley, Jane Seymour and with Dress for Success, a not-for- profit group that provides interview Joi Gordon, executive director of suits and career development to low- Dress For Success. income women making the transition from welfare to work. At the Dress for Success New York office, Blair announced a pledge of $25,000 and plans to provide the organization with 1,000 career pieces to be distributed to the organization’s 78 offices across the U.S., U.K., Canada and New Zealand. After a few words from Blair senior vice president Robert Crowley, Seymour introduced two Dress for Success clients who picked outfits from the new Essentially Jane and Crossing Pointe collections for a makeover. It was fol- lowed by a mini displaying the fitted cotton-spandex suits, em- broidered and leather that make up the new career-oriented group, which all retails for less than $100. Leather jackets however, are just above the $100 price point. Dress for Success is widely supported by the fashion industry, however, oftentimes the smaller sizes that are donated by firms don’t fit the organiza- tion’s average size 12 customer. Since the bulk of Blair’s customer are a sim- ilar size, the two made a logical team, according to Joi Gordon, executive di- rector of Dress for Success. — J.G. 12 2003 3, JUNE , Shopping London UESDAY T LONDON — For Londoners, it’s all about boutique shopping. Here are five worth noting. The Queen’s .

WWD, COCO RIBBON open for just four months. American labels include Rick At Coco Owens, Burning Torch and New Religion; European Ribbon, every- labels include Megan Park, Voyage Passion, Alessandro thing is for sale. Dell’Acqua, Roberto Cavalli and Pucci. The pashminas Her Majesty’s Besides offering with pink flamingo feathers by Anna Trzebinski are a frilly , must-have, especially in turquoise, priced at about $980. embroidered 176 Westbourne Grove, London W11, satin cushions, (44-207) 243-8800. Working Swarovski stilet- tos and feath- TASHIA By Samantha Conti ered bags, this Sara Chiara- LONDON — Fifty years ago this week, 27-year-old luxury lifestyle monte set up Tashia, Princess Elizabeth was crowned Queen of England, and boutique is happy to sell the display furniture. Alison named after her to mark the occasion Kensington Palace has put togeth- Chow and Sophie Threapleton, who opened the shop daughter, just over a er — what else? — a display of the monarch’s crowning last September, have sought labels from here and all year ago, and now glories — hats and spanning six decades. over the world, including the U.S., France and Australia, stocks Matthew Joanna Marschner, who curated “Hats and Chow’s home country. Brands include footwear from Williamson, Calypso, Handbags: Accessories from the Royal Wardrobe,” Beatrix Ong, cashmere by Cameron Taylor and denim by Roland Mouret, said a royal exhibition was a highly appropriate Sass & Bide. Right now though, resin homeware from Johanna Ho, Buba, and obvious choice to mark the anniversary. Dinosaur Designs is flying out, priced from $16 for a tea- Language, Theory “Before deciding on a theme for the exhibition, we spoon, as are dusty pink suede bags from Zume, at $368. and Ann-Louise asked the Queen’s friends and associates what they The only thing that’s not for sale are the Cadbury’s Roswald. These thought epitomized her. Almost unanimously, they Cherry Ripe’s — they’re free to all visitors. complement her came back to us with one word: hats,” said Marschner. 21 Kensington Park Road, London W11, own Tashia line of “Over the years, hats have become the Queen’s trade- (44- 207) 229-4904. suede wraps and fur . Look for Tashia’s capsule col- mark, her leitmotif and a potent symbol of her reign.” lection of silk scarves, vintage print caftan tunics and The exhibition — which showcases some 120 THE L BOUTIQUE made from Indian saris. A visit on a sunny day is hats, , handbags and gloves — tells a va- The L Boutique is a well worth it, and the patio garden at the back of the riety of tales about the Queen. design team, a personal styl- store is a treat for weary shoppers. For a start, it shows how her style and tastes ist and a boutique all rolled 178 Walton Street, London, SW3, evolved. On display is everything from her Sixties-era into one. More like a boudoir (44-207) 589-0082. Brigitte Bardot-style green silk to the groovy, than a shop, a bed is strewn Pucci-esque number she wore to Fiji in 1977 to the with flower and diamante BARE neat, minimal straw designs from the Nineties. “You headpieces, silk dresses are London’s hip crowd can see how her style has evolved and how, in a very hung wherever there is space heads to Bare, where gentle way, fashion has been followed,” Marschner said and the mannequins could an array of brands in a telephone interview. be on any best-dressed list, includes Matthew The hats also reflect the needs of a unique career complete with silk kimonos, Williamson, Boyd, woman. They are all designed to be eye-catching — matching jewelry, bags and Gharani Strok, Markus so the Queen can stand out in a crowd — and an- . Lucia Silver opened Lupfer, Sara Berman, chored securely, whether with hat pins or a small the boutique as a tribute to , Studd and J&M comb sewn into the hatband. every woman who has ended up at a party wearing the Davidson. Accessories “This is a working wardrobe. These hats all do a same as another. Inspired by the Twenties and Thirties, by Ana Konder, maker job, and must do so efficiently,” said Marschner. everything is one-of-a-kind, the jewelry is vintage but of Chanel’s jewelry, are “They cannot be too big because then they might blow has been restrung, and even the array of organza and proving to be a hit, away, and while they have to be rather flamboyant in chiffon evening coats are all handmade. A made-to- especially the $300 fur- order to stand out, they also need to have a gravity and measure service is also available with Silver, by and-rose quartz neck- seriousness about them so as to give a sense of occa- appointment only. pieces. Owners Daisy sion and show respect for their audience.” 28 Chepstow Place, London Morrison and Tina The hats also serve as markers for major events in the W2, (44-207) 243-9190. Ferguson celebrated its Queen’s life. The exhibition begins with the small gilt cir- first anniversary with a clet made by the royal jewelers Garrard that Princess FEATHERS champagne-fueled Elizabeth wore to her parents’ coronation in 1937. It ends Relocated from shopping party in with a variety of models the Queen still wears, including Knightsbridge to Notting Knightsbridge for every the bright red hat trimmed with black feathers she wore Hill’s Westbourne Grove, “It” girl and her friend. during the Golden Jubilee ceremonies last summer. Feathers has also enjoyed a The basement features a lounge area and cocktail glass- In between, there are Frederick Fox hats the Queen revamp as well as a relaunch. es filled to the brim with Smarties. If not for the fashion wore at the christenings of her grandsons, Prince The 2,500-square-foot store or the candy, it’s worth visiting just for the dressing William and Prince Harry. Also on show is the eye-pop- has the space to carry more room, complete with a fireplace, Louis XVI furniture ping pink silk festooned with 25 pink fabric labels, luxuriously big dress- and Florentine wall varnishings. There are also plans bells, which the Queen wore to open the 1976 ing rooms including one for for a Bare in the U.S.“L.A. would be perfect for us,” said Olympic Games in Montreal. VIPs, and an on-site seam- Morrison. The exhibition, which runs until April, also fea- stress. Although the store has 8 Chiltern Street, London, W1, tures a selection of the Queen’s handbags — most of been around for more than 35 (44- 207) 486-7779. them made by the companies Rayne and Launer, and years, its new site has been — Sarah Harris gloves fashioned by Cornelia James. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 3, 2003 13 Sponsored by: “There was also a disconnect between The Bay called in all its brands to dis- As a result, the retailer dropped un- The new lines also complement INC The new lines are being backed by “The new brands give us a fashion com- Retail consultant Adam Cooper at J.C. “It is important that the Bay not be our regular and petite departments, so we merged them with one buyer buying for both.” cuss exclusivity and those not targeting the key age group and asked for the best proposals. It realized most brands were aimed at the 55-plus age group. derperforming midprice lines including Haggar, Tan Jay, Alfred Villager, Dunner and Emma James. They were replaced by Melrose, a contemporary informal wear- to-work dress line; Mac and Jac, a career and casual and line from Vancouver, Maxfield, a younger, trendier line devel- oped exclusively for the Bay by Buffalo jeans designer David Bitton. and Style & Co. from Federated Depart- ment Stores, brands the Bay started car- rying last fall. heavy TV and radio rotations and sup- ported by print advertising and by the Bay’s own fashion book. ponent at a competitive price,” said Burgess. “We know we have the 35- to 55- year-old customers who shop at the Bay for cosmetics and . Now we have the products to attract them to our clothing.” Williams Group, said Toronto, the Bay has a tough road ahead in trying to win back customers who have a specific image of the retailer carrying stale merchandise. viewed as offering everything for every- body and the TV campaign is a good strat- egy as it focuses on the particular segment of the market that they’re going after.” dıdıt. “We weren’t happy weren’t with the “We way the di- Canada, the largest women’s apparel re- tailer in Canada, with about a 15 percent market share. vision was working or with the assortment or look,” explained Brian Burgess, divi- sional merchandising manager women’s apparel, for who moved from the men’s wear department in January 2002. “In the past, all the brands we carried were also carried by our competitors, so we wanted to look at exclusivity. Melrose 7 – November 5 The Ritz-Carlton, Battery City Park, New York On going public: “Once you go public, at the end, I do really you make a believe commitment to the you market, stop.” can’t You to have grow. Domenico De Sole You can’t afford not You to be there—everyone else will. Apparel Summit | The Bay had sales of $1.7 billion last The retailer wants to increase its mar- CEO Retail Maxfield apparel sales at the Bay had an 8.1 per- cent share of the estimated $6.8 billion wear women’s market in Canada last year, or about $550.8 million. That’s down from 8.8 percent in 2001. (U.S. dollars are con- verted from Canadian dollars at current rates.) exchange year from 99 stores across Canada. ket share by 5 percent over the next three years. That would put it just below Sears DNR | WWD ” SUMMIT The Hudson’s The Bay Hudson’s Co. has Domenico De Sole, Chairman, President and CEO, Gucci Group 2002 Keynote Speaker, For For more information, or call e-mail (212) [email protected] 630-4779 He joined more than 150 of the industry’s most influential executives at the 2002 CEO Summit. Don’t miss the next one this November City. in New York O

CE

— Brian Burgess, Hudson’s Bay Hudson’s Burgess, Brian —

In the past, all

According to market research firm Executives Executives at the Toronto-based retail- The Bay’s women’s apparel market

the brands we carried were also carried by our competitors, so we wanted to look at exclusivity. “ share lags behind cosmetics, lingerie and home goods, according to the company, which has revamped its entire women’s department. It has spent years solidifying its high-end and low-end selections, offer- ing well-known brands like Lauren, and Jones New as York, well as its own moderate house brands, while its midprice selections were not at- tracting shoppers. Trendex North America of Toledo, Ohio,

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212-695-9983 y 212-719-0622. : m l o iiindsge.Public designer. division support providing corp. Allbenefits.FAXresumeto: & for sketching research, trim flat oriented. & fabric Detail for Responsible experience. years 1-3 * * 344-5613 [email protected] aeadrslealise.Ms epro- be all Must ficient inMicroSoftWord/ Excel. issues. review all resolve and communi- to cate and detail-oriented accuracy ability for a documents with be charge-backs individual store must retail of Candidate field the specialist in seeks importer NJ Secaucus, seeks Illustra- childrenswear. co. tor for brand designer CAD private Established old year 18-35 the of sportswear market. fashion of basic samples & design & Shop Very growth exp. & yrs potential buying 2 compensation least off-price at competitive Need RTW NYC. of cloth- in priced stores moderate ing Women’s 6 For shoe urban Salary+Comm. hip, Soho. Fax resume:212.274.9109Attn:YarivM in for store clothing wanted apparel buyer men’s & women’s Experienced growth Visible, +. Dept. a Bilingual, Spanish EXCE for &/or know college Must Some req’s Chains. spreadsheets. have Mass shipping & ASN, stores Must & invoicing, $75M/yr. of packing knwldg. least extensive yrs. at environment 6 whse. billing Min. in mfr. exp. supervisory apparel women’s For designer the in in experience market. PleaseFaxresumetoTizianaat: management prior or with motivated sales a player be 14th must team our Candidate in store. sales to St. with Mgr. assist Asst. & manage experienced an Seeking good with Player Team backs. a charge skills. Goodworkenvironment. be resolve to Must able & be Must investigate skills. collection & communica- tion follow-up, retailers. good have major Must working Experienced Other [email protected] * * * MS must. a skills Com- times. phone Office. Faxresumeto:212-997-0242. all and at puter showroom shipping the main- tain also inventory, Will records. purchasing and all by president the maintaining assist organ- Will communica- skills. well good tions with a individual for ized opening Immediate and or e-mailresumetoAtt:JackI. industry. commensurate Salary w collections computer apparel required. and skills follow-up phone in Strong in with in chargebacks individual firm seeks experience N.J. import Elizabeth, apparel Established goo an must. with a seeking Fax resume:212-840-8333,Att:Galina. literate person Computer is skills. Payable comm. Accts Co. exp. Apparel Growing for energeticself-motivator. * *Graphic Dsgnr:4-6x-7-16Girls $Open *Dsgnr-C/S KnitsJuniorMfr..... CAD OperatorImmed fast-paced in work to environment amust.Min.2yearsexp. ability and presenta- & tion color for eye an knowledge, APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. ADMIN/SHOWROOM ASST LARA APPARELINC. Fax resume&salaryrequirements, ACCOUNTS PAYABLE Spec Tech-Activewear-L.I.loc Spec Tech-WovenGoods-Sptswr...To$35 Prod’n Coord-Bilingual-Sptswrmfr Prod’n Coord-BetterDressmfr Prod Mgr-PrivateLabelexpSptswr HEAD Dsgnr-Jr.ActivewearMfr.... STELLA McCARTNEY Attention: C.Scott@(212)869-5237 t xeine odopruiy fa opportunity, Good experience. ith Accounts Receivable

Compliance Mgr. Fax resume&salaryrequirements A/R Analyst/Collector BUYER -APPAREL Alan Wolf-Since1971 Please faxoremailresumes with htSo kls ColourMatters skills, PhotoShop & Biller/Traffic & Fax ASST. DESIGNER Careers inFashion or faxresumeto(212)302-1161 CAD DESIGNER Asst. Mgr.-NewYork E-Mail: [email protected] FAX 212-556-5431 Buyer (OffPrice) [email protected] WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR attn. Ben@212-221-3857. c salary requirements to: Charge-Back y y n Coordinator kim@ciaolu ! our resume:(212)944-5127 yj Fax: (908)352-6219 laefxrsm o (212) to: resume fax Please BUYER obs@steveandbarr 212-255-1526 201-863-6712 Name Firm $Open$ gg a g e.com ....To $40K ...... $65K+ ...To position .. $BOE y .... s.com $BOE $50K $50K K L d x / , . A nweg ffbisadcomputer- and fabrics thorough of swimwear, girls’ knowledge background of design experience, in 5 design have Must years 4-16. branded sizes swimwear for girls’ Designer Freelance Seeking $40K. to Tech Spec W Assist Designer knowl- department. sample and A a running customer on young edge the both A Illustrator and Shop Photo and beabletoflatsketch. profi- in assis- be Must cient division. highly knit detail-oriented join to tant seeks and organized company Sportswear DESIGN ASSISTANT w computer o seeks Knowledge individual. Co. proficient Sportswear rdcinAs.weprec ncosting. in Fax resumeto Jesseat: w/experience Asst. Production W 36 Bust o are: 1/2", Hip39",Waist29",Height5’6"/5’7". feel Measurements experience model and required. fit fit Previous regarding sample. comment able be to must Candidate Headquarters. W company. and resume Fax suits experience. salar yrs & 3 Min dresses for midtown needed Draper/Cutter Experienced to directly reports V Position Merchandisin divisions. and Manufacturing Sales, specifications sewing and balance garment Experienc categories. w apparel multiple have Candidates managerial Design. must and Technical in expertise skills manufacturing seeks and firm design menswear Major w along must Mac a w Photoshop oriented. detail Illustrator, creative, and be Must motivated, aspects development. all line in of designer assists Position A generated artwork.PleaseFaxresumeto: ls motn nefc ihDesign, with a interface drawing patternmaking Important plus. technical of Knowledge expert skills. have Must einicuigft construction, fit, age including must. Technical of a aspects Design all system and staff like small or software communicate to order in construction confidence. o understanding have ag- strong, and be gressive must expe- Candidate with designer rience. sew and cut strong skills follow-up & communication Design Designer-Intimates, Daywear...$60-65K A rmnep pcn garments, computer. specing Excel exp. Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc min pre-production, yr positions needed: FittingTechnician N our for 8 size in model fit seeks DESIGNER -Freelance Designer Graphic$80-90K We areanequalopportunityemployer TECHNICAL DESIGN DESIGNERS WANTED Text graphics/illustration.Streetwear/urban. Fax ResumeAttnCarla201-894-1186 Production Assistant Fax resumeAttn:Bob(212)944-0112 ssociate-Girls 7-14Dancewear...... $50-55K .P. ProductDevelopment. lrsmswl ehl nteutmost the in held be will resumes ll seeking company junior ggressive Good required. EDI’s and UPC’ billing, entry, SN’s order 2.7, 2.6, ria KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS orks wellwithothers. t etasGleymanagement Gallery Lectra’s ith and fabrics ith productionteamandfactory. with familiar being ith Jennifer*Just Mgmt.*800-544-5878 senSfokC.Na asuL.1 LI. Nassau Near Co. Suffolk estern l salse ete prser 2 sportswear. leather established ell Label Private Sportswear omen’s Please faxresumeto(201)867-4042 Please faxresumeto212-719-2942 Fitting Technician Mac, Photoshop&IllustartorNec [email protected] or Must knowHowtoCut&Grade or [email protected] Rocawear Kids y Garment Industryfirmseeks Fax resumeto212-730-0913. DIRECTOR OF to212-398-6598.EOE full timesize10FitModel. Please sendresumesto: Boys Associate [email protected] DESIGNER [email protected] FIT MODEL FIT MODEL [email protected] Data Entry fax (212)736-1753. Email resumesto 212-502-2091

DRAPER Designer Fax resumeto718-786-6510 ehia akrudin background technical M/F/D/V

212-719-9520 / y & J g e s f f f . iaiiybnft,ada401(k) a [email protected] and or fax:708-366-4743. E-mail: benefits, package. disability ronment. Plsfaxresume:845-425-6370 envi- Low-key have software. inventory production and computerized Must of person. knowledge experienced control an inventory needs distributor and A TEXTILE DESIGNASST...... 35-40K PRODUCTION COORD...... 45-50 GRAPHIC ARTISTS(Children)...... 40-65 BOYS(Sz 2-18)DESIGN...... 60-65K TECH DESIGNASST...... 30-32 SOURCING/PRODUCTION ASST...32-35 experience; W etc. retail of inventory; yrs 2 yrsstoremanagement. improving 4 controlling Required: merchan- and expenses; dising; satisfaction; controlling the maintaining sales; of store training staff; and customer for for hiring, responsible recruiting, available be will complete position You York, manager. a New Avenue, has Madison on Oilily resume strong Fax to Brendanat:212-255-1526 Please with skills. the coupled merchandising in market experience designer ne management have our must prior Candidate for store. Manager Angeles Los store a Seeking W between technical knowledge required. some liaison production, and Must literate design skills. computer follow-up be strong with ual individ- seeks Co. Sportswear Moderate (Men’sBottomsorJuniors) (Women’s,Children’s,andJuniors) *SALES...... $60-100 * *PRODUCTION...... $30-100K (Women’sdresses/swimwear/sportswear) *DESIGNERS...... $50-100K (Boy’swear/Activewear/Urbanwear) *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-100K (Men’s,Women’s,andChildren’s) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K (AccessoriesorGiftItems) * expinPhotoshop,Illustrator,orU4IA) (Oppty’sinmen’s/women’s/urban *CAD DESIGNER...... $40-60K * *TEXTILE SALESAE...... $to60K (AssistDir.ofRetailOperations) *ADMIN COORDINATOR...... $45-50K (Expw/Mktgservices/RetailStaffing) * Call 212-986-7329 orFax212-986-7708 *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS...... $40-80 Moderate WomensCatalogCo...... $75K GROMWELL GROUP and officeduties.CallSusan:212-391-2370 Jeanswear TechDesigner (Bi-LingualChineseNecessary) Office Assistant-P/T INVENTORY CONTROL IMPORTS ASSISTANT MGR OFRETAILDEVELOPMENT individual forlightbookkeeping,phones Textile DesignStudioseeksversatile RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT. PRODUCTION/TECH DESIGN....$40-60 Temp andFreelancepositionsalsoavailable. (10 posinWovens,Cut&SewKnits,Denim) STELLA McCARTNEY ToddWa "ON THEMARKS" DVERTISING PROJECTMGR...... 60-75 µ µ µ µ µ µ µ µ Fax resume(212)764-2417Attn:Helen fe eia,dna,lf,and life, dental, medical, offer e importer manufacturer, estchester ao hlrnswa opn ae nNCi okn for looking is NYC in based company freelancers. Thefollowingpositionsareavailable: wear children’s Major Fit Model/Receptionistjuniorsize Missy–Key SalesExecutive Spec Technicians- Graphic Artists Walmart ProductionCoordinator Sales AccountAssistants Production Coordinators Kids (4-6x,7-16)KeySalesExecutive THIS EXCITINGIMPORTCOMPANYISCONTINUINGTOGROW,ANDWE Please call212-972-9300ore-mail: All applicantsmusthaveindustryexperienceandbeMacproficient. Manager -LosAngeles Many OtherOpptys Available CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: Store Manager [email protected] THE GOLDENTOUCHGROUP Email [email protected] y [email protected] We areanequalopportunityemployerM/F/D/V [email protected] Call212-947-3400 ARE ADDINGTOOURTEAMINTHEFOLLOWINGAREAS: Oilily Freelance PositionsAvailable AssociateDesigners TechnicalDesigners Please forwardresumesto:Deborahat: Kids Headquarters ProductionArtists - 1-3yearsExperience GraphicArtists or fax(212)736-1753. 1-3 yearsExperience Designers ...... $60-100 –ExperiencewithMajorRetailersamust $50-80K $60-70K –Knitwear+/orSweaterExperience w K K K K K K K –MajorRetailfollowingamust K K ak.Mjrbnft,salary benefits, work Major computer commensurate withexp.FAXresume: multi handle to tasks. heavy able and (Excel/Word), construction/lab under- garment testing, production faxes, of E-mails/ standing worldwide daily tracking, include: ties atti- Responsibili- player. team de- great oriented, skills, tail w/ communication strong person tude, firm energetic sportswear seeks women’s public Busy Computer System RLM Apparel of A Knldge Exp. Prod’n Systems 2-4yrs Be Who Must Repeats. Color Oriented. Exp. & Prints, w/U4IA Create can Designer Seeking COSTING SPECIALIST...... 40-55K A SENIOR PLANNERS...... 50-75K SR MGRPROD/SALES...... 75-100 Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc and wovens.Fittings.Correctionsetc. folk Co.NearNassauLI.Exp.inknit Patternmaker to$50K.WesternSuf- F/T System, Lectra position, Brooklynlocation. on Experienced w area Boston the seeks in co. Patternmaker sportswear exp’d moderate Major Pattern Directorto$100K xeinesol ecnetae in concentrated be should Background patterns experience patterns. first production generate to thru able be Must W PATTERNMAKER Prod’n SystemSupport$40 "ON THEMARKS" PRINT DESIGNER$65K PRODUCTION ASST. E-mail Resumes@Hillar E-mail Resumes@Hillar Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 Strong tech/mgmtskills.Gerberexp. Fax resumetoH.R.:617-332-3260 SST PLANNERS...... 30-45 omen’s wovenpants,skirts,andjackets +, butCowillTrain. aems eextremely ing totravelinternationally. be will- and organized creative, must Candi- date pillows. for designer a decorative based for looking company NY is furnishings old, home year Fifty e offeranexcellentbenefitspackage. TEXTILE DESIGNER Please emailyourresumeto: PATTERNMAKER/ –MajorRetailfollowingamust Allen *JustMgmt*800-544-5878 "PLAN AHEAD" [email protected]. –KnitBottomsaplus Call Sionat(718)382-1777 or byfax Or, faxtoD.Grach@ EXPERIENCED 212-213-1683 - 7(34-24-34)5’6’’ 212-556-5431 [email protected] MARKERS WANTED 212-947-7654 . EOP. y y Ta Ta y y lor.com lor.com y K . K K . WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 3, 2003 15 w .** y that ahoo.com y company 201-330-0001 212-391-2485 or 212-391-2485 Call: Please fax resume to [email protected] SALES PERSON to: 212-764-9332 or e-mail to ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Please fax/email resumes Please fax/email Email [email protected] [email protected] Senior Account Executives Senior Account Hotsportswearexp’d brand sales newmust people. is have Candidates 3-5w/established seeking years expoffer contemporary an along contacts. excellent benefits. package with full compensation We Updated moderate specializes in bottoms, suits,related and separatesprofessional is salesperson that seekinga has connections withstores major andprivate label business. capable dept. of doing E-mail: smcdesign2003@ ovens and knits. Experienced Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- ny type of garment from picture, **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc CAD Designer Available Road Reps Wanted A to Z - Dominican Republic; Mexico; SOURCING PROBLEMS? unior, prints, sleepwear, legwear, Experienced freelance Patternmaker. TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Production Pro Seeks Change Russia; Leave message @ 201-894-8754 PATTERNMAKER manager. Excellent factory contacts. apparel, and home products. Exp’d CADj Designer specializing in Global sourcingyears professional experience, withopportunity 14 interestedExpertise with in in ne w stable budget and company. moderate, Mfr. of Ladies’ woven Missy & Jr. shirts seeks AGGRESSIVE ROAD REPS. sketch or knock off 973-985-1205 A r r d Box#M 1076 TOGIOLA LLC Fax: 212-730-0880 New York, NY 10001 preferred. Travel required. c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl email: [email protected] salary requirements to: Please email resume and Account Executive [email protected] Well-established British contemporary sportswear company seeksCoast East Account Executivegrowing for women’s fast division.have Must 1-2 yearsand sales experience accounts. contacts Sportswear/denim back- ground with specialty omen’s Sportswear Co., seeks profes- Sportswear Sales Reps 1411 Broadway, Suite 630, NY, NY 10018 Sales Rep Established /W Nationally distributed Domestic/Import Sweater manufacture looking foryears Sales experience Repdepartment working with at with storecandidates send resume to: least majo buyers. 2 Intereste sional sales reps,and with better specialty and department relationships.territory information to: Send store resume and experience y y Fax to: 514 385 4406 212-840-0009 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] E-mail resume in strict confidence to: Private Label Sales Private Label (212) 967-8108. Please send resume to: [email protected] or Please send resume to: [email protected] Experience needed! Sales Person Children’s Outerwear Sales / Div. Head must have 2 yrs experience, good Please e-mail your resume to [email protected] or fax to [email protected] leading Children’s Apparel Compan SALES ASSOCIATE Well establishedan immediate International opening forCandidate an sportswear experienced Account must Executive. companyspecialty and have has departmentaccount stores. five management Strong skills retail years areNew York and travel is required. required. planning Position and experience is based with in both Established importerladies’ sportswear with seeks an broadto experienced seller and develop / merchandiser new deepwill private have capabilities strong labelcatalog contacts in business. marketing in The channels. thement Demonstrated ideal dept and product store candidate business develop- / developmentflexible skills specialty and are store highly essential. entrepreneurial / Weny Hong are with Kong a based strongoffering compa- financial an andstarter who can help us unlock the value in our infrastructure. outstanding operational capability. opportunity We for are the dynamic self- oven fabrics seeks self-motivated ith major dept. & chain stores. Please Salary dependent upon experience. eans. Must sell to Co’s, like GAP, Sales Professional Fax /E-mail resumes to: Kellwood, Tarrant, Levi’s, A&S,can Eagle etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agc Ameri- Established manufacturer ofw high-end salesperson for ourdate growing team. Candi- Major Ladies’ Sportswear &dealing in Dress Junior, Co., Missyseeks & an Large experienced sizes, Salespersoncurrent with working relationshipsw & contacts Sales $150K++. Current exp.j in denim Major Importer seeksability indiv to w/ sell& proven into capable all ofto distrib the bringing channels children’s aexp market. major Private a Brand label girls. must. All Goodbenefits. size workingreq, ranges Send in confidence boys conditions to:Fairchild resume & Box#C & 5008 PublicationsStreet, 4th Flr. New York, NY 10001 w/ c/o 7 salary West 34th A is currently seekinged a Sales highly Personsales, motivat- for Department Store This Infant/Toddler/4-6x/4-7 individual shoulded have establish- sizes. store Buyers. Minimum 2 years exp. relationships with Department communication skills, be highlyized. organ- E-mail resumein confidence to [email protected] w/ salary history . / . t r d d x d d ahoo.com or email ahoo.com y y 201-330-0002 through. Com- (212) 840-6877 benefits package nn-ritchie.com EOE y 212-768-7773 SALES (213) 748-5449 New York, NY FIBERS Lynn Ritchie Radiant Group Fax: 44 (0) 20 7729 2609 RAMOSPORT TRIM BUYER TRIM SALES ASSOCIATES Fax resumes to: 212-768-9058 Harriet@l requirements to: Visit www.radiantdevp.com keelergordon Must have strong following. Fax resume to: 212-563-1340 Hoxton St., London N1 6NL Showroom Sales E-mail: [email protected] y TRYST New York E-mail: [email protected] or Account Executive Tony Keeler, keelergordon, 31-37 leading UK Textile Design studio re- ork out of our NY Office & travel to ell Established sportswear company e are a well established better- orking with larger retailers, develop- Large China junior denim mfr seeks CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR Email resumes: coldweave@ ith the opening of a corporate show- ear Co. is looking for a Sales Pro. ith following in Junior, Missy, and/or and contact radiantdevp@ ill be responsible for meeting targeted Fax resume to "MAGIC JEANS" Send resume to: Fax 212-827-0011 or SALES ASST./ SHOWROOM SALES Independent Sales Reps GREAT SALES OPPTY Fashion design and willing to travel. Ladies’ Missy/Jr. Sportswea Exp’d Salesperson Wante sales person who has active accounts w off-price/discount stores. Salary+comm room. We needour the right sales peopleexperience to team. join with Candidates betterand specialty will stores need traveling to regional markets. Plus size. Wecommission offer and ament. a great salary fun plus work environ- regional markets. Must havetacts est’d con- w/good specialty communication,and stores computer organizational skills. asand friendly environment. We well offer a as warm seeks an energetic sales professional updated West Coast sportswearny. compa- We are expanding our NY presence RETAIL petitive compensation/ ing new businessroom and running are a essential.opportunity show- to This join is anpany established a com- in fantastic thebe midst in of NYOnly in growth. qualified mid We candidates June will should for fa interviews. quires SALESPERSON To be based in Data entrybe required. a U.S. ApplicantSalary - $40,000 range. citizen must or have a green card. offered. Fax resume to: 212-751-9126 If the answer’s yes, then write to: contacts with specialty stores.candidates Qualifie must beoriented detailed & withcomputer results excellent skills. Pleasesalar organized fax & resume & Bally is seekingates seasoned sales with associ- aexperience minimum in of highaccessories 2 end, and years luxuryMadison sales ready-to-wear, shoes, Ave. for Flagshipw store. its Candidates sales goals, customer developmentcustomer and service follow- A London, but to travelUSA extensively and in Europe. the Isambitious this you? with Dynamic, tions excellent skills. communica- Some/ knowledge of Textile Mfr. seeks SalesMust Pro have for NY strongcontacts. Fax resume to: Showroom. dept. & chain store w W resumes with a cover letter to: Contemporary betterw BridgeW Sports- Leading apparel mfg infessional China seeks Sales pro- Canada Reps with throughout dept.background. High commission offered. US stores & / private label W w W Growing NYmanufacturer, seeks private capableplan, person to label ordertrim. garment Applicant and shoulddetail be follow-up well orientedgood organized, computer garment and andshould math persistent, skills. have Applican with 3 years of industry experience & ambitious sales asst. Must have est’ Outerwear manufacturer seeks exp’ / r f x d ) R y (212) 840-6877 -usa.com req’s to: 212-869-5167. y y [email protected] [email protected] g Cut & Sew Knits @sixt Receptionist/ [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 y y y COMPUTER SKILLS SPEC TECH EXPERIENCED ONLY 1+ yr Exp. Wal-Mart A+ RAMOSPORT REFERENCES NEEDED in wovens & knits. Knowledge INVENTORY CONTROL JLod SHIPPING / RECEIVING Fax resume to: 212-564-7418 PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Please fax resume and salary Please fax resume Tech Designer requirements to TRYST New York TRYST E-MAIL: must. Fluent in French required. must. Fluent in French Richard Malcolm Co. 212-768-0835 Technical Designer communication, computer skills a communication, computer overseas factories. Strong written, overseas factories. Involves tech design, ordering and Involves tech design, Administrative Assistant SALES ASSIST $$$$ tracking of samples, follow-up with tracking of samples, omen’s/Missy/Petite Sportswear Co. Assistant Technical Designer ord & knowledge of Photoshop. Pls fa ith min 3 yrs experience. Knowledge /entry level to 2 yrs exp. Fast paced ble to follow through on all aspects o arious other projects as needed. Abili- ToddWa ToddWa FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agc 1) Junior Sweaters 2) Junior C/S Knits to work with designer in creating line. to work with designer 3)Childrens I-20 -- Call Barbara Murphy Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or Fax resume Attn: Daniel (212)764-2417 TECHNICAL DESIGNERS - $HI Technical Designer TECHNICAL DESIGNER Product Development / 509-757-7084 TECHNICAL DESIGNE T.D. $50-70K Ladies Outerwear Co. seeks Prod’n Asst. Ladies Outerwear Co. TECHNICAL DESIGNER TECHNICAL DESIGNER in specgarment development from construction, sketches, fit analysis. environment. Exc.resume w/salar benefits. Pls fax seeksexperience. individual Must be wellsketching, versed with in flat comments. specs, Must 3+communicate have fit with the years computer literate. factories sessions ability overseas, to & of fabric, flat & tech sketching, graded ty toresume: 917-934-2898 Attn: Dorothy multi-task aor doroth must. Please fax W Rapidly growingCounty) men’s importer seeksKnowledge (Nassau talented ofable to interpret tech garment designplete sketches into Tech construction designer. com- tion. Package & for Exp in overseas techspecs & produc- flat & sketching,W grade garment fittings.resume/sal req: 516-621-2251 Attn: Mel Exp. w/Excel, Moderate Sportswear Co. 3-5rience years expe- specs, garment constructionExperience and fitting. insystems. Gerber Quality PDS controlmust. background and Detail a oriented CAD Stationed and team in player. Fluent Hangzhou, in China EnglishFax resume to: and office. Chinese. Please Fast paced importind min knit/swtr 5 co.grading, yrs seeks exp w/childrens spec flat / dev, plusmkg fitting, sz. exp Must sketch &communication have knit pattern gmtneeded. & for const. MS Excel/Word Excellent a must. 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Calista 2003 Flockhart 3, in Grin and Bare It Michael The MTV Movie Awards, held at the Shrine Auditorium on JUNE Kors , Blonde Saturday, boasted the media company’s usual — a super- and hero theme complete with a blue carpet and comic strip Tod’s. sound effects — and plenty of skin-baring pop stars and

UESDAY glamorous fashionistas, including Beyoncé Knowles, Kate T Hudson, P. Diddy, Eve, Kate Bosworth and Calista Flockhart. Steamy temperatures meant that most stars wore as little as WD, possible. W Ambition “I’m in summer white,” said Victoria Beckham, who, As New York’s premier blonde sex scribe, along with her soccer star husband David, wore Dolce & Candace Bushnell has been compared with a Gabbana. “It’s very light and airy, although the dress is number of the city’s pulp fictionalists, but laced up nice and tight so I have to make sure I don’t pop eye® never before to Tom Wolfe. out.” Her third book, “Trading Up” “She looks fantastic,” Becks swooned. “I copied her and (Hyperion), coming out in July — and hoped I would look as good.” guaranteed to be burning up beaches from For her part, Pink was ready to get rowdy. “We have a Bridgehampton to Bondi — is filled with sex, of great show planned,” she announced. “There’s skin, song course. But it also boasts of details architectural, and strutting. I’m gonna lick someone.” financial and social that prove Bushnell’s been doing her homework. When I was eight years “old, I said, ‘I will live in New York and be one of those women like Jackie Susann and Helen Gurley Brown.’ I knew my fate. I’m like a character in one of my own books. —” Candace Bushnell

“A lot of people have been mentioning Pink in Victoria and the Tom Wolfe thing to me,” Bushnell custom David Beckham admits, calling from the Manhattan Dickie’s. inin DolceDolce && Gabbana.Gabbana. apartment she shares with her husband of a year, dancer Charles Askegard. But Samaire Bushnell’s latest, which follows the life Armstrong of Victoria’s Secret supermodel Janey in Naru Wilcox, was also inspired by Edith skirt and Wharton and Tsubi top. Jacqueline Susann’s “Valley of the Dolls.” As Wilcox spends another summer in the Hamptons, she catches the eye of a major movie mogul, an old money socialite and a handsome polo player, her story divulging as much detail about the media world, money and Candace men as shopping, Bushnell in Tuleh fashion and hairstyles. “I didn’t have to do that much research at the New York about New York and the buildings,” says City Ballet Gala. Bushnell. “I walk the streets staring at these buildings, like one at Park and 64th, and dream of buying them.” As for getting into the minds of men — corporate and otherwise — Bushnell used the silent treatment. “I kept my eyes and ears open everywhere I went,” she says. “I AQUINO may not be able to remember what I did last night, but when I’m writing, I remember JOHN

everything people have said, and I travel in a lot of circles. I talk to tons of guys when I Y B go out — nice, single, assholes, married — about what they think and feel.” Jennifer Bushnell penned the first draft before she met Askegard through a friend at the Garner in JACKET Ballet, and finished the final draft after they’d been married. “I did take Kate Dries Van BOOK

a lot of those feelings of being married and applied them to the second draft — that Bosworth Noten and ; A feeling of being in love,” she says. “I finally do believe that all New York women can in Missoni. Development. meet a great guy if they’re patient enough — and if the timing is right.”

A number of popular New York personalities seem to crop up in the book, though SARDELL Bushnell swears all her characters are composites — including the megamogul behind TO DONA

New York’s Parador Pictures, who the author insists is not based on Harvey Weinstein. PASSING THE BAR: Memo to Presidential nephew Pierce Y But Bushnell, who will depart on a major book tour and has another novel due in a Bush, age 17: Remember your twin cousins, Barbara and B year, has already interested some real-life film types in “Trading Up.” Jenna’s underage drinking troubles, and don’t swig your ARDS

EYE SCOOP W

“When I was eight years old, I said, ‘I will live in New York and be one of those dad’s beer in public. When the Bush put his bottle A women like Jackie Susann and Helen Gurley Brown,’” she says. “I knew my fate. I’m of beer down to greet hostesses Becca Cason Thrash and Suzanne Saperstein at a party in MTV like a character in one of my own books.” Thrash’s home to honor Princess Ira von Furstenberg, his son quickly scooped it up and took And with “The Devil Wears Prada” thriving, and “Bergdorf Blondes” on the way, a few swallows behind his father’s back.

Bushnell herself has become a role model for New York’s ambitious — and often Most of Houston society was there and had the chance to see von Furstenberg’s amber EICHNER; blonde — scribes. and marble candleholders topped with giant shells, serpents and ostrich eggs, “conversation STEVE

Y

“Do all these girls want to be me, really?” she purrs, sweetly. “I don’t think that’s true. pieces” that sell for between $500 and $35,000. Thrash predicted that Pierce, who chatted B And besides that, I’m not going to trash anybody. And you know why? Because these about his and his father’s upcoming trip to London, Paris and Dubai, would one day be days I’m nice, generous and loving. That’s what can do to you.” president. The younger Bush blushed. Must have been the beer.

— Merle Ginsberg BUSHNELL