Big Night out NEW YORK — Sarah Jessica Parker, the City’S Ambassador of Style, Kicked Off the Fashion Industry’S Biggest Night — the CFDA Fashion Awards
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RETAIL STOCKS RIDE WAVE/2 THE RETURN OF RUDI?/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 3, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 111 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Big Night Out NEW YORK — Sarah Jessica Parker, the city’s ambassador of style, kicked off the fashion industry’s biggest night — the CFDA Fashion Awards. Wearing a champagne silk cocktail dress by Oscar de la Renta and Fred Leighton jewels, she popped backstage for an impromptu photo session. Other stars of the night included Narciso Rodriguez, who won for Women’s Wear Designer of the Year; Michael Kors for Men’s, and Marc Jacobs for Accessories. Brian Atwood won Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award for Accessories and Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Ready-to-Wear prize. The International Award went to Alexander McQueen; Lifetime Achievement to Anna Wintour; the Eleanor Lambert Award to Rose Marie Bravo, and the Eugenia Sheppard Award to André Leon Talley. Oleg Cassini was honored with a special tribute, while Nicole Kidman won the Fashion Icon Award. Tom’s YSL Update: Rougher Space Puts Focus on Accessories By Anamaria Wilson NEW YORK — One might say Tom Ford is fixated on duality. After all, he’s a man whose tastes run toward black, minimalist interiors, bold infusions of YSL’s shoe salon at the sex, and a design store on East 57th Street. aesthetic that toes the line between hard and soft. So it’s not surprising that his new Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche store is no exception. Situated at 3 East 57th Street, next door to the mammoth LVMH building, the 11,400-square-foot space, which opened Monday, is a EICHNER See Roughing, Page6 STEVE Y B PHOTO 2 2003 3, Retail Shares Outride Wave WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles could be an upside to May’s second half improvement, driven JUNE By Jennifer Weitzman , same-store sales when the ma- by the management changes at Investors were jority of the industry reports re- the AT division. Shares of AT rose GENERAL NEW YORK — Tom Ford’s new Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche store on East 57th Street shopping for retail on Monday sults on Thursday. 72 cents, or 2.8 percent, to $26.29. with the expectation that con- The Institute for Supply Man- “We remain very encouraged 1 opened Monday, showing a sleek, polished interior with rustic accents. UESDAY T sumers have some shopping agement’s May activity index by the organizational changes at Peggy Moffitt revealed she’s in talks to relaunch the Rudi Gernreich label at plans of their own. showed that the battered U.S. AT. Clearly the biggest change 2 a show of works of herself, her husband and the late designer in Phoenix. While other major indices manufacturing sector slowed its has been the addition of Jerome WWD, gave back most of the gains they rate of decline, coming in at a Jessup. However, with him and READY-TO-WEAR: The prevalence of dresses on international runways picked up earlier in Monday’s better-than-expected 49.4 in May Mark Eisen and now most re- 11 helped push the category into double-digit gains this spring at many stores. trading session, the Standard & from 45.4 in April, and marginally cently Michele Delahunty from Children still weave carpets, sew clothing and footwear, pick cotton and work Poor’s Retail Index came out better than the 41.5 of February Gap, the company’s design-mer- 2 in leather tanneries and mines in countries receiving U.S. trade benefits. the big winner, closing up 2.44 2001, just prior to the start of the chandising bench is clearly points, or 0.8 percent, to 321.07. recession. beefed up,” Cohen wrote. EYE: Candace Bushnell, who believes in happy endings, is promoting her After a brief climb over the Shares of Coach won investor As reported, since last sum- 16 latest novel, “Trading Up,” plus a report from Saturday’s MTV Movie Awards. feel-good 9,000 point mark earlier adulation, advancing $1.72, or 3.5 mer, the AT unit has been bol- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 in the session, the Dow Jones percent, to close at $50.85 on stered by the appointment of Industrial Average closed up New York Stock Exchange, after Jessup as senior executive vice To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is 47.55 points, or 0.5 percent, to end Merrill Lynch raised its rating on president for merchandising [email protected], using the individual's name. the day at 8,897.81. It was the the luxury accessories company and design, Eisen as senior vice SUBSCRIPTION RATES Dow’s highest close all year, as to “buy” from “neutral.” Coach president of design and U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the Nasdaq finished down 5.16 broke its previous 52-week high Delahunty as senior vice presi- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; points, or 0.3 percent, to 1,590.75. of $49.25, reached May 30. dent and general merchandise outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Specialty retailers garnered Analyst Mark Friedman wrote manager. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional the greatest share of the gains, in a report the boost to Coach re- Other retail gainers included: issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. but many broadline retailers, in- flected “an increased level of American Eagle Outfitters, up 60 a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., cluding department stores, confidence about the strength of cents to $17.53; Cache, up 90 cents a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. shared in Monday’s bounty as ex- the business and the ability to to $11; Charlotte Russe, up 46 No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be pectations of a modest recovery outperform in this environment cents to $10.01; Coldwater Creek, expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 in the second half combined with against tough ‘compares.’” up 68 cents to $12.97; Federated Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 a hint of optimism about same- He said he based his elevation Department Stores, up $1.15 to GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 store sales for May. on Coach’s “outstanding, differen- $33.65; Gap, up 43 cents to $17.43; Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of “My sense is there is re- tiated, fun and yet still classically May Department Stores, up 69 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. newed interest in what may be a Coach” fall-holiday 2003 products, cents to $22.38; ShopKo Stores, up For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. recovery in the consumer sector the firm’s emphasis on testing, 46 cents to $12.15; Saks, up 28 in the second half,” Jeffrey new customer potential and its at- cents to $9.66; United Retail, up Klinefelter, a retail analyst with tractive position in the market. 14 cents to $1.95; Wilson Leather, U.S. Bancorp Piper Jaffray, said. Ann Taylor also received a up 25 cents to $5.97. Dorothy Lakner, a retail ana- kind word from Banc of America Sears Roebuck rose $2, or 6.7 In Brief lyst with CIBC World Markets, retail analyst Dana Cohen. In a percent, to $31.98 after saying it noted that, despite the soggy note maintaining her “buy” posi- would work aggressively to main- weather in the Northeast, there tion, Cohen said AT is poised for a tain its market share in appliances. G MAGLI’S NEW DIGS: Today, Italian footwear and accessories firm Bruno Magli is opening its second Manhattan unit at 789 Madison Avenue. The 5,000-square-foot boutique is spread over three levels, and design elements draw from the retail concept the company introduced at its Florence, Italy, boutique last DOL Report: November. The decor is gray, brown and red, and wooden Louro Peggy Moffitt in Talks Preto frames create the main display areas for shoes and leather goods. Customers will find the brand’s full assortment of Child Labor shoes, handbags and outerwear. The New York opening is part of To Relaunch Gernreich Magli’s retail growth strategy, which includes a store in Honolulu opening by yearend, and two others — in Las Vegas Still Abounds and Beverly Hills — next year. By Rose Apodaca Jones time.’ If for 18 years it’s the per- fect time, there’s something By Kristi Ellis G THROWING IN THE TOWELS: WestPoint Stevens Inc.