Robert Stansfeld’s Coatee, 1826-1837

The Person

Robert Stansfeld; born 1805 Sowerby, died 1885 at Field House, Halifax. He was an active member of the military community both during and after his career. Robert joined the 19th Regiment of Foot 19th September 1826 and served in the West Indies. Service in the West Indies was fraught with danger due to the prevalence of diseases such as malaria and cholera. Two commanders of the regiment died during their service there. Robert survived and married Hannah Letitia, the daughter and heiress of the Chief Justice of the Island of Trinidad. He retired from the British Army on 2nd November 1832 but later joined his local militia where he rose from Captain in 1852 to Honorable Colonel in 1874. His obituary in the Halifax Guardian describes him as a typical country gentleman, heavily involved with his local community both military and civilian. He paid for and supervised the restoration of Sowerby Church as well as supporting the improvement of roads in his local district.

Image taken from “History of the Family of Stansfeld of Stansfield in the Parish of Halifax and its numerous branches” John Stansfeld. https://archive.org/stream/historyoffamilyo00stan#page/n11/mode/2up

The Design

This coatee has a more defined military style but still retains civilian fashion influences. It is single-breasted and buttoned to the waist. The rounded chest shape is retained by padding and quilting the lining along the breast panels. A waist seam cinches the waist and the shape of the facing panel emphasises the hourglass shape. The green facings are wider at the top than the bottom. Robert Stansfeld would have worn the coatee with a cream or white waistcoat and breeches. Waistcoats are cut shorter, corresponding to the length of the jacket. He would have also worn a gorget (a metal neck covering), a shoulder belt and a sash.

The facings of this coatee are particularly unusual in military uniforms of the period. Facings are a way of identifying soldiers by their uniform. The Green Howards, as the name suggests, wore green facings. Facings can include the collar, cuffs and in this case a large chest panel. The green facings and gold lace on the front of this jacket were required for formal occasions such as parades but not for active service or drill. Originally the panel was to be folded back on itself to hide the green broadcloth, the lining of the facing being red to blend into the rest of the coatee. However this damages the gold lace, likely making the coats appear scruffy and not up to the high standards required for formal occasions. An order from Lt. Col. Milne can be found in the Order Detail Book of Messrs Buckmasters on 23rd October 1820, which requests detachable facings. The entire panel of green superfine broadcloth can be removed and kept safe, clean and unblemished for formal occasions.

The tails of the coatee are cut with less fabric than earlier uniforms, which allows them to sit smoothly on the wearers hips. They are decorated with scalloped gold lace, buttons (which are missing) and faux turnbacks in white fabric. Conforming to male fashion of the period, the tails are cut further back on the hips, with the waist seam cut on the hip line to again emphasise the hourglass shape. Two welt pockets are cut vertically into the lining of the tails.

Continuing to follow civilian fashions of the 1820s, the sleeves are fashionably narrow and well fitting. The elbow shape is cut to follow the natural curve of the arm to reduce excess fabric and narrowed to fit the wrist closely. A plaquet has been cut into each cuff and two cloth-covered buttons attached. These pull the cuff tighter around the wearer’s wrist, so emphasising the slender profile. Each button has been covered to blend in with the fabric it is set against so that they are barely visible. The cuff itself is quite long, decorated with gold lace and buttons with the regimental 19 surmounted by a crown.

The top of the sleeve is cut with extra fabric to create a puffed effect. This style mirrors women’s wear of the 1820s and is present in both military and male civilian wear. The positioning of the shoulder and side seams is cut slightly narrower than the wearer’s shoulders.

Top left: Interior quilting. Top right: Facings and gorget. Bottom left: Tail pockets. Bottom right: Sleeve shape.

Top left: Cuff with cloth covered buttons and plaquet. Top right: Shoulder and side seam configuration.

Item Measurements and Fabrics This coatee would have been handmade and handstitched. As an officer, Robert Stansfeld would have had the garment made to measure.

Collar & Facing buttons: ¾ inch or 2 cm Cloth Cuff buttons: 3/8 inch or 1 cm

Both tail pockets are inserted into the tail lining with welt pocket openings 6 ½ inch or 16.5 cm

Pocket opening: 6 ½ inch or 16.5 cm

14 inch or 35.5 cm

12 ¼ inch or 31 cm

3 ¾ inch or 9.5 cm Collar height:  Front: 2 5/8 inch or 6.5 cm

 Back: 2 7/8 inch or 7.5 cm Facing width:

 Top: 7 7/8 inch or 20 cm wide

Chest: 38 inch or 96.5 cm  Middle: 8 ½ inch or 21.5 cm wide

Waist: 33 inch or 84 cm  Bottom: 4 ¾ inch or 12 cm wide

Left shoulder seam: Right shoulder seam: 5 ¼ inch or 13 cm 5 3/8 inch or 13.5 cm

Across the back: 12 inch or 30.5 cm Nape to waist: 16 3/8 inch or 41.5 cm

Width of back (at the top of the tails):

3 ¼ inch or 8 cm

Waist to hem:

17 ½ inch or 44cm

Sleeve length (inside seam):

Sleeve length (back of 23 ½ inch or 59.5 cm sleeve seam):

29 inch or 73.5 cm

Elbow width: 6 ½ inch or 16.5 cm

Cuff height:

3 ¾ inch or 9.5 cm

Red superfine broadcloth. Green superfine broadcloth & gold lace.

Cream superfine shalloon tail lining. Cream silk shalloon lining.

Red silk shalloon facing lining. Gilt and superfine broadcloth buttons.