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Home , 1820s, 1850s in Western fashion, Beaver hat, Coatee, Court dress, Dickey (garment)

1820s and the Davenport House Museum Christmas Interpretation 2011

 Would attending to attire have Slaves very much shattered. The persons played a role in the Davenports’ ―In Acct. Current‖ injured are recovering.‖ 6/26/1821 lives? ―Nov. 4th 1827 – To Paid for 2 Jack- p. 2 c. 5. Savannah Gazette. ets for David & Jack. 5.25 ———— ―Clothing is often compared to lan- Jany. 12, 1828 ― ― C. Cannon Silhouettes. 1823. Galley of guage that allows people to speak Clothes for servants 7.50 Cuttings - MASTER HANKES through what they put on their bod- with Common Scissors Children 11/1/27 – 1/1/29 (14 mos.) ies and how they arrange the ele- ―In Acct. Current‖ 28.69 ½ ments. Most scholars agree that, SARAH DAVENPORT, age 40: two clothes & although it can and does say things, piece and with lacy fi- Nov. 1 1827 Paid Mr. Hills for 6 pr clothing’s message is more subtle chu/corsage) and childrens Blk . 2.25 and unclear; it shifts with time and matching lacy Nov. 1 ― ― Mr. Clark ― 1 place and is without fixed rules of cuffs. Her head is for Isaiah . 2 – grammar like a true language. Yet adorned with drop Nov. 1 ― ― Mr. Foley clothes spoken and written upswept for Cornelia . 2.32 can be misunderstood, too, because hair held in place Nov. 22 ― ― dying clothes for chil- words have meanings only insofar with a comb and dren . 3.87 ½ as human beings assign them and what looks a ― ― ― O. Johnson 2 pr Shoes for agree on the linguistic rules. The feather ornamentation. children . 2.25 uncodified rules that dictated what ― ― ― I. R. Herbert 1 Plaid to wear for various occasions in the CORNELIA DAVENPORT, age 4: a for Isaiah 5.25 past, or that govern what people long sleeved with Jany 1. 1828 To Paid George New wear today, are almost as rigid as ruching in rows above Hall 1 pair shoes . 1.12 ½ grammatical rules.‖ Baumgarten. the hem and lacy trim. ― 12, 1828 ― D. Foley clothes for Lace trimmed panta- children . 6.37 ½ ―Clothing styles continued to loons. Her long hair is ——- evolve, sometimes slowly and at done in sausage curls. ―A house struck by lightning in the other times with dramatic speed. 6th instant . . . All persons+ in the Societal roles and mores, current SUSANNAH CLARK, house, nine in number were in one events, and professional de- age 67. A room and no one received any injury signers all influenced clothing. with a except Mr. Raymond, owner of the Knowing the evolution of high fash- at the neck- house, and a Mr. Davenport, both of ion does not necessarily tell the line. On her head is whom were standing, and were scholar how ordinary people dressed a segmented cap knocked down apparently dead, and for everyday . . . . Nevertheless, with ruffled trim. remained so for some time. The hair fashionable styles are a barometer She is holding eye- on the heads of both was burnt, and for predicting social evolution and . they were marked on the skin from the standing and attitudes of those head to foot. Mr. Davenport who who wear the clothes.‖ Baumgarten. ——— had a child in his arms had the skin Clothing and on torn from his . . breast and one leg., ——— Isaiah Davenport’s Estate Inven- and a number of blisters under his , vest, pantaloons and one tory: HERE IS WHAT WE KNOW  1 gold chain & seal ABOUT THE DAVENPORT were considerably scorched, while the child received 100.00 HOUSEHOLD AND  1 spinning CLOTHING. no injury. The tea-table, at which Mrs. Davenport was sitting, was wheel .50

From Susan Mason Mays’ struck and `one leg split, and the research: dishes broken, but Mr. D(avenport) 1 appeared unhurt - The house was VENDORS AND THEIR WARES IN SAVANNAH IN THE 1820S

Clothing Ware-House Canton Crape , &c, James Wilson, An invoice of elegant Canton Merchant Crape Dresses assorted colours, -- Informs his friends and former cus- 3 ½ black Levantine and tomers of the late firm of Thomp- figured Barcelona Hdkfs just re- son and Wilson, that he has taken ceived the brick store on Johnson’s For sale by Square, opposite the Bank; John Lathrop & Co where he intends keeping a general , 1820. Columbia Museum. assortment of the best Cloths, Cas- drab Castors, 1st quality, No B simeres, Vestings and Trimmings; Miss Le Count, 30 cases gentlemen’s black and and assures the public that all or- Ladies Maker, drab Castors, 2d quality, No A ders he may be favored with shall Informs her friend and the public, 25 cases men’s & boy’s black and be punctually attended to and his that she has removed in York- drab Rorams work shall be equal, (certainly not street, opposite the -house 18 do ladies’ do do inferior) to any in this city. where she will be happy to receive & white N.B. Ladies Habits and their favor. 24 do red, green and black mo- made in the latest . April 4, 1820, Savannah Republican. rocco , containing 1, 2, James Wilson and 3 dozen each May 15, 1821. Georgian. French Goods Also Fourteen boxes - just landing from 45 cases men’s & boy’s fine and John Prentice the Brig Providence, consisting of coarse Hats containing Intending for future to reside at the thread Lace, Bombazeen, Kid 75 and 150 each north, and personally superin- Gloves, , Violin Strings, With a general assortment of tended the manufacture of clothes Cords, Cambric and misses’ fancy and glazed Hats for the southern market, informs Lawn, Booth Brushes, Pearls, N.B. HOAG & JARVIS are the his friends in Savannah, that he has Beads, Pocket Combs, Paper only persons legally authorized connected himself with Mr. Hangings, Chip Flatts for to sell their HATS in Savannah George Peckham, and that the and Trimming, Perfumery, Visiting New York, Jan. 14 1820 business in this place will hereafter Cards, Whips, Gingham, Pins, &c. →orders from back country ad- be conducted under the firm of For sale by dressed to Hoag & Jarvis can George Peckham & Co. Blanchard, Brothers & co. be filed either in Savannah; or From this arrangement they flatter At Mr. J. Guenin’s counting room. at the Factory of White, Broth- May 31, 1820. Columbia Museum. themselves that they can furnish all ers & Co. N.York kinds of READY MADE February 18, 120. Savannah Republican. CLOTHING of the latest fashions, Hoag & Jarvis and of the best-materials, as cheap Have received by Emily & Vigi- Killiam & Hills, merchant Tay- as they can be furnished in New- lant from N.York lors, have just received per late York. A fresh supply of Hats arrivals, and are now opening at , 1820. Columbia Museum. From the factory of White, Broth- their store at the corner of ers & Co. and J. & L. Brewster, Whitaker street and the Bay, a Mrs. C. Judah which are opening at their new large an extensive assortment of Would inform her friends and the store, Market Square the most fashionable. public generally, that she has taken -- READYMADE CLOTHING. a store in Luccna’s buildings, in White, Brothers & C. Which are warranted to be made the rear of Broughton street, where Offer for sale at the Wholsale up in the best manner and in the she has on hand a general assort- ware-house, No 71 Liberty most fashionable ment of HATS and BONNETS, of street, being the only store in style. the latest fashions. She would also N. York where Hats of their Among which are inform the Ladies that she alters manufacture are sold Superfine dress and cleans Leghorns in the most 50 cases gentlemen’s black and st fashionable style. drab , 1 quality, No D 2 ― Waterloo , 1820. Columbia Museum. 35 cases gentlemen’s black and frock do ― Loose do Ellen, a fresh supply of Youths fine Coats and Plaid SHOES AND , Pantaloons, 20 dolls Pantaloons and Vests Consisting of Ladies’ Morocco A few gentlemen’s hats, Fine boots, buckles shoes. Walking new fashion, 7 dolls Wrappers & Drawers shoes and , heels and sprigs. Gentlemen’s kid Gloves, Also on hand. Gentlemen’s shoes & of different 75 cents Superfine Cloths and quantities and ?apes, Patent , 50 Cassimeres, with trim- Children’s leather boots, misses cents. mings for the same, Morocco slips and sa[n]dals ?, Also which will be made up which in an addition to this former 40 very fine , new to any pattern, in the stock makes it complete. mode, 20 dolls latest improved New-York fashions, An additional supply of Negro House servants’ Coats and Panta- at short notice, and on reasonable SHOES – all of whithal is offered loons, 16 dolls. terms, as they have in their employ for sale as above on reasonable Boys Suits $4.50 the best of workmen, and from their terms. White and blue plain suits from 4 to long experience in the business their , 1820. Columbia Museum. 7 dolls customer may rely upon having jus- Lion skin Great Coats, from 7 to 12 tice and satisfaction done them. New Clothing dolls January 1, 1820. Columbia Museum. A New supply of Gentlemen’s Twill’d Fearnaughts, Monkey Jack- Clothing has been received by ets and Trowsers suitable for Dry Goods. the subscriber, which they will boatmen, from 8 to 9 dls. . . . dispose of extremely low. Red Shirts, 16 dolls 50 per dozen 1do women’s Gentlemen’s double mill’d cassi- Striped do 15 dolls 1 do Carlisle Ginghams mere Pantaloons from 8 to 10 do 10 dolls 1 do extra super Prints & dollars Negro Caps, Gloves, &c. printed Muslins Do superfine cloth do dod 8 to 12 Negro do 50 cents 1 do three cord wire Thread dolls CHANET & SETZE. 1 do buff found Prints Do single mill’d cassimere do 5 to Corner of Bay and Drayton street 2 cases 8 dolls January 4, 1820. Columbia Museum. Just received from Charleston and Superfine fine, black, green and for sale by the package or smaller other fancy color cloth Coats, By Watts & Joyner quantity. Apply at the store of from 25 to 30 dollars Tomorrow, (Thursday,) 2d inst, Mr. J. Thomas Second cloth do do from 10 to 20 Will be sold at 10 o’clock precisely, No. 13 Bottom’s range dolls at their February 12, 1820. Savannah Republican. Supf blue, grey, drab, brown, bottle Auction room, without reserve, a green, &c Coats, from large and generous Choice selection of Groceries. 25 to 32 dolls Assortment of Enoch S. Jenny Fancy swansdown Vests, from 2 to English, French, German, and Do- (Anigaux’s wharf) 3 dolls mestic . . . Black florentine do from 3 to 5 Dry Goods, Also dolls. Among which are – 1800 pair prime negro Shoes Buff and black cassimere do 3.50 1 bales Scotch Osnaburgs 900 do first quality retailing men’s to 5 dolls 2 cases 8-4 superfine damask do Cotton, merino and lamb’s wool Shawls 300 do do do boy’s do knitted Shirts, from 1.50 to 3 1 case 6 -4 Carlisle Ginghams 100 do men’s fine do dolls 1 case undressed Chambrics 1 trunk men’s Worsted do do do Drawers from 1 bale 3-4 Wellington Boots for 1.50 to 3 dolls 1 bale superfine Cloths retailing. February 12, 1820. Savannah Gentlemen’s frill’d Linen shirts 1 bale second and servants do Republican. from 4 ½ to 5 folls 1 case superior silk Umbrellas Extra and small size plaid Cloaks, 1 case plain and twilled Derries John Douglass full and half wings, from 12 to 1 case plate Furniture No. 9, Gibbons Building 20 dolls 1 case chintz do Has just received from Boys’ Dresses, of a superior quality, 2 cases furniture and plain Dimity New-York, by the ship from 7 to 12 dolls 2 cases cotton Hose 3 2 case nun’s thread Cloths 4-4, 6-4, 7-4, 8-4, and long Black, 1 case Suspenders Green Baize and Plain White, and Colored Merino and 1 case linen cambric and cambric and Printed Cassi- Cashmere Shawls hdkfs meres Plaid and Striped Florences – Levantines Hirst’s Black and Blue Blue, Black, and Colored Levantine Kid, beaver and silk Gloves Broadcloth, very 6-4 and 3-4 do Bombazeens, very Ribbons and Trimmings fine fine Silk Hdkfs and Shawls – thread , Black and Worsted do Laces Mixt Cloths An assortment of Plush 50 pieces German Sacking Super Black, Blue and Mixt Cassi- Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Black and 50 pieces light Duck, &c meres White Silk Hose and Gloves . . . Low priced do do do and Sattinetts 1 Bale Real Scotch Tartan Plaid March 1, 1820. Columbia Black and Colored Plain and Figured An assortment of Plaid and Watch Museum. Bombazetts Ribbons

Black and Colored Vest- White and Colored Castor and Kid Tortoise Shell, ings Gloves Ivory and Horn English, French, and Silk do Merino Plaids and Trimmings Combs, Ladies’, Gentlemen’s, and Chil- Coronation, Gilt and Pearl . . . dren’s White, Black, and Col- Linen Tapes and Robbins The subscribers offer ored Worsted Hose Black, White, and Colored Silk for sale by the dozen, an invoice Do do and do White Cotton do of Tortoise Shell Combs of all 4-4 and 7-8 Linen, in whole and half Black Italian Lustestring sizes, pieces, very fine Black and Colored Sinchews and Very fine Ivory Combs of all sizes 3-4 do suitable for children Sarsnets Mock tortoise shell combs do do Long Lawn and Linen Cambric Marked Canvass . . . Hhdfs. With White and Colored Black and Colored Italian Sewing BLANCHARD BROTHERS & Borders Silk CO. 8-8, 8-10, 9-10, 10-12, 10-14, and 10 6-4, 4-9, 3 4 Waltham Bleached and Anderson’s Building on the Bay November 19, 1822. Georgian. -15 quarter elegant Damask Ta- Brown Sheeting ble Cloths Colored Homespuns Cheap Seasonable Fine Linen Cambrics 4-4 and 3-4 Linen Cotton Bedtick GOODS, 5-4 Irish Sheeting, Dutch Rolls, and Black and Colored Nankeens, and For cash or town acceptances, only Russia Sheeting Canton Crapes and Dresses The subscriber begs leave to inform Black Black and Colored Italian Crapes his friends and the public, that 3-4 Bird’s Eye and Russia , 10-4, 11-4, and 12-4 Marseilles the has received and is opening very cheap Quilts and Counterpanes his Store, in Mrs. Prey’s Build- 6-4, 7-1, 8-4, 9-4 and 10-4 Table Oil Cloth ing, opposite the store of Messrs. Diaper Sewing and Floss Cotton Balls Andrew Low & Co. and exten- Furniture Chintz, handsome patterns Green Table Covers sive and gen- 4-4 Printed Cambric and Calico Ladies Leghorn eral assortment 6-4 Medium Muslim and Cotton and Chip of Cambric, very fine Bonnets SEASON- Fine 6-8 do do suitable for Gentle- With a variety of ABLE DRY men’s Cravats other arti- GOODS, Real India Spriged Muslin cles, will be Consisting 6-4 and 4-4 Book and Mull, Plain, sold very Partly of Figured and Tamboured do. low on the . . . very fine above- Blue and Elegant Flounces, Inserting and mentioned White Planes Scalloped Trimmings terms. Low-priced 6 Double Ground Lace, Footing and William Turner 4 Mit and Blue Edging December 11, 1821.

4 ADVERTISEMENTS OF RUNAWAY SLAVES These often note clothing worn when last seen.

Fifty Dollars’ Reward Thirty Dollars Reward. Ranaway from the subscriber on the Ranaway from the subscriber morning of the 15th inst. A negro man in September last, two negroes, BOB named RALPH.-- Ralph is about 25 about thirty years of age, five feet six for the apprehension of said Grason years of age, 5 feet 6 or 8 inches high; or eight inches high, a little inclined to and negro, or fifty dollars for either, if dark complexion and very well made; yellow, speaks quick and intelligent, confined to any jail, where I can get speaks slow and stutters a little. He has holes in his ears, and wears hold of them. had on when he left home negro whiskers, his hair is rather long and William Davis, cloth clothes, a black hat with but little inclined to kink, he may easily Twiggs County crap? on it, and took with him a be known by two wens on his back, he September 23, 1820, Savannah Republican. twilled blanket with one black is African born, his upper fore-teeth stripe on each end, blue cloth , wide apart, he is well know in Savan- RUNAWAY cord pantaloons and some fine nah, as he drove my wagon for ten or FROM the subscriber, on the 10th in- cloths. . . . twelve years, he has blue cassimere stant, negro fellow named JEFFERY, BURWELL ATKINS, Camden pantaloons and coat, a blue about 3? Years old, and about five feet County green coat. ten inches high, dark complected, and March 25, 1820. Savannah Republican. SILLER, a woman about tolerable small eyes. He had on forty years of age African born, about when he went away, a brown Fifteen Dollars Reward. five feet eight or nine inches high, , with a small velvet coller— Ranaway from the subscriber on wears small gold ear rings, had a he took all his clothes with him; Wednesday 12th inst. A negro man mixt homespun frock, speaks rather among them were one blue and named August . . . August is about 30 slow and mild: -- Twenty Dollars will one black broad cloth coat. He will years of age and 5 feet 4 or 5 inches be paid for apprehending the said no doubt try to get to Savannah, high, large head and shoulders promi- Bob, and lodging him any jail in the where he was raised; and formerly nent breast, with small legs and feet, state, so I got him and Ten Dollars for owned by Samuel Goldsmith. A re- speaks the Spanish language, and tol- Siller, or one hundred for proof that ward of twenty five dollars will be erable English, is an intelligent fellow. will lead to conviction of their being given to any person who will deliver Had on when he went away a black harbored or taken out of the state by him to me in August, and all reason- Bombozette Coatee, Check Shirt; any white person, or fifty dollars if able expenses paid, or ten dollars to and ether Stockinette Pantaloons or having harbored by a negro. have him lodged in any jail in Georgia Russia Duck Trowsers, and carried ROBERT BURTON, Effingham or South Carolina. with him several other articles of county. ROBERT LANG waring apparel. February 12, 1825, Savannah Republican . GEORGE W. COLLINS. Ten Dollars Reward , 1819. Savannah Republican. Detect the Villain! Will be paid for apprehending A Man who called himself John M. my fellow Billy, of the late property of Fifty Dollars Reward Grason, of Emanual county, in this Mr. Michael Long—who absconded RANWAY from the Plantation of State, sold me a negro man by the yesterday morning; he is an African by Doct. Thos. Leavitt, in Burke county, name of BOB, and about 23 years of birth, dark complexion, his stature is on the 19th July, my negro Man named age, stout well made, 5 feet 9 or 10 short with broad and rather round LEW, about 24 or 25 years of age, 5 inches high, his complexion a little shoulders and short neck, his pro- feet 4 or 5 inches, thick self, pleasant yellow – he remained with me but nouncation is indistinct and stuttering, countenance, with a small scare over four days – had on when he went his consists of a blue the left eye. He has lost one upper away an old blue broad cloth coat a cloth coat with yellow metal bot- fore tooth, and the toe next to the new pair of copperas pantaloons, a tom, rather large for his person, little toe from one of his feet, probably striped vest, and a tolerable good black hat, a short sailor , the right foot, had on when he went hat. He is a keen shrewd fellow, pretty well worn, a pair of new away, a homespun shirt, and light and [has] ready answers when spoken homespun Trowsers, and black mixed cassimere pantaloons, but as to, says he was raised by Joh Alfriend, cloth vest. he carried with him different suits Screven County. From the short time Should he be taken up in the of clothing, he has probably the negro stayed with me, I am in- country, all reasonable charges will changed them. . . . duced to believe he was conveyed be paid. JOHN B. MORRISON. away by the said John M. Grason. I June 4, 1823. Savannah Daily Republican. 5 , 1820, Savannah Republican. will give One Hundred Dollars reward HISTORY OF CLOTHING/EARLY WITH EMPHASIS ON THE 1820s

MEN’S OUTERWEAR norm. Payne. obligatory un- 1815-1835 The urban life – with it dirt – influ- til 1830, and Long pants worn for all but formal enced men‘s fashion – no embroi- conservatives occasions and country sporting dered or delicate colors. Payne. continued to wear them much later.‖ events Early 19th century –In – ―. . Payne. Tight pantaloons and loose . this was the period of fine fabric, both fashionable expert cutting and skillful tailoring, Shorter coat/Longer pants - Men‘s styles had feminine silhou- fastidious grooming and debonair ―Men‘s shorter coats and longer ettes with raised, comportment, making it one of the pants were in reality an embellished narrow waist and most pleasing period in the history version of the working of full chest. of men‘s clothing.‖ George Bryan sailors and laborers. As a whole so- Coat gathered at Brummell – Beau Brummell, an arbi- ciety donned working dress, the new of arm ter of taste.. Payne men‘s fashion defined a transition By mid-1820s, full- Fashionable men - 1820-50 ― . . . into commercial and industrial skirted frock coats men now turned with enthusiasm ways.‖ Larson. coexist with tail- toward an effeminate figure, charac- Trousers - ―Long trousers or coats cut across the terized by pinched waist, rounded `pantaloons‘ were adopted by all but waist hips, and bosoming chest.‖ Payne. the most conservative or most for- mal men after about 1800. These Transformation of the male sil- In Fremin Cerveau‘s celebrated city pants were made with high waist and houette - ―The years just round portrait of Savannah 1837, Revolu- narrow `fall‘ which buttoned over 1800 saw a sharp transformation of tionary war veteran Sheftall Sheftall the pockets in the front. The seat of the silhouettes of both sexes, one (Cocked-hat Sheftall) is the only per- the trousers were often baggy, no which Americans shared with the son in knee . ―On Bay doubt to accommodate the length of people of and Western Street to the east of Bull and in front the shirttail.‖ Nylander. Europe. For men, knee breeches, of the offices of the Savannah Geor- Trousers - ―The design of trousers `long, broad-tailed coats,‘ and gian is the unmistakable figure of in the twenties contributed to the cocked or low-crowned hats gave this survivor of the Revolution. He effeminate figure. . . . The fop of way to pantaloons, `short, snug, was the only figure of this survivor the twenties wore trousers almost close-fitting‘ coats, and tall `stove- of the Revolution. He was the only skin-tight below the knee, ending 2 pipe‘ hats with narrow brims. By man in town who continued to wear or 3 inches above the anklebone.‖ 1815 adherents to traditional garb the fashions of his youth – knee- Payne. had dwindled to `a few old gentle- breeches and cocked hat of the Con- men,‘ who in clinging to their buck- tinental line.‖ Waring. Neckware - ―Collars brushed the led shoes, knee breeches, cocked ear lobes, framing the chin. With all hats and `became objects of Early century – ―crisp high shirt the thicknesses of the folded curiosity, almost derision to the boys collar, faultless cravat, freshly pleated encircling the neck twice . . .‖ Payne. in the street.‘ With a speed that ruffles, high-collared white Neckware - ―The all-enveloping must have shocked them, they came under a coat with smartly shaped, cravat was sobered in the twenties to be symbols of a seemingly ancient smoothly rolling collar and .‖ into a flat surfaced layer, still high past.‖ Larson. Payne. and stiffened, and finished off with a Trousers - ―One notable change in formal flat bow. By 1827 separate Ready to wear - ―. . . ready-to-wear men‘s costume grew directly out of collars became available.‖ Payne. shops had begun to appear in Amer- the French Revolution. The peasant ica by 1800. made up extra class had for centuries worn long Waistcoat - ― remained stock in their spare time to sell over rather shapeless pantaloons. When the only gay, colorful, individual arti- the counter. The famous firm of the revolution began it became im- cle in men‘s wardrobes long after the was founded in prudent to appear in rich attire. rest of the costume had been neu- 1818. By 1825 many tailors were Knee breeches, symbol of the aris- tralized. . . .‖ Payne. selling garments manufactured by tocracy, became suspect and disap- ―Waistcoat collars were lowered pioneers in factory production. peared. During the 1790s trousers along with the coat collar at the end However, the real transition of fac- were lengthened to the calf, and by of the period. Throughout the pe- tory-made6 apparel was slow.‖ Most 1800 to the ankle. For court wear, riod the waistline was straight and clothes were custom-made – the however, knee breeches remained near normal position.‖ Payne. ―During the twenties and thirties Full /High - men had the satisfaction of wearing Handkerchiefs - ―Handkerchiefs ―For women, there was a shift from two [waistcoats] at a time, and we were worn around the neck of both the full skirts, long sleeves and high had such combinations as white vel- men and women.‖ Nylander. necks of the late eighteenth century vet over rose-colored silk brocaded to the strikingly simple `classical‘ in gold. Stripes, colored , LADIES OUTERWEAR mode, which fit the figure much plaids, and figured silks also added a 1815-1830 more closely and exposed far more touch of gaiety to the scene.‖ Payne Bright colors return to fashion of the arms and upper body. Waistlines lowered, often with inset Younger, fashionable men and Cut of coats and sleeves - Shoul- waistbands between bodice and women changed first; older Ameri- der seams lengthened skirt cans and those in the countryside ―Leg-of-mutton sleeves followed the Skirts become fuller, often followed more slowly.‖ Larson. mode of women‘s wear.‖ Payne. padded and stiffened at hems ―By 1820, the classical influence on Coats - ―During the early part of the Puffed sleeves gradually costume was pretty well played out. twenties tail coats occupied first become huge by 1830 There then ensured a series of swell- place among coats. Cut in both sin- Corsets create hourglass ings and protuberances that lasted gle- and double-breasted styles and shape the rest of the century.‖ Payne. fitted closely at the waist, they were unique because the leg-of-mutton ―While the everyday clothing of Voluminous sleeves - ―steady in- sleeves which tapered to a narrow most men was dictated by their oc- crease in volume, by 1830 the wrist and extended to cupation, women‘s clothing was in breath across the upper part of the the knuckles. The col- large part affected by their biology. body was gargantuan. To keep the lar, rolling high at the Without effective birth control, mar- costume somewhat in balance the back, still joined the ried women expected to bear five to skirt widened also, but the top-heavy lapels in a W-notch. ten or more children, of whom sev- look was accentuated by some of the ―Payne. eral would likely die in infancy or most unique and startling millinery – ―By the early childhood. As a result, many in history.‖ Payne. mid-twenties the frock women were pregnant or nursing a coat was as popular as child much of their married life.‖ Sleeves: ―Already swollen at the top the tail coat for day- Baumgartern. by 1820, they continued to grow time wear. Its front until they required support of some edge was continuous ―By, 1820, women‘s fashion had kind, usually down filled formed or from the to the hem, which retreated from trim simplicity and stiff linings. . . the majority were the was well down toward the knees. turned to much more covered –up leg-of-mutton type largest at the top, This cut added to the svelte appear- and voluminous styles that were not diminishing gradually to the wrist. ance of the waist. Probably because to be seriously challenged again until An offshoot of this style was a sheer of its more practical nature it eventu- the early twentieth century. But men tapering sleeve worn over a short ally relegated the tail coat to evening never returned to anything remotely but very full puffed sleeve. Sleeves and .‖ Payne. like the ways of dress.‖ Larson. called ―gigots‖ were very full to the Topcoat – ―The topcoat, or redin- elbow and smoothly fitted from gote, as it continued to be called in Silhouette – ―During the 1820s and there to the wrist. ― Payne. , was styled like the frock coat , women returned to but was lengthened to midcalf.‖ with fitted , increasingly Necklines - ―New turn by the ad- Payne. lower waistlines, and full skirts. Cor- dition of a bertha or falling ruffle, or sets, which had never entirely gone a shaped band mounted to the wid- ―Even with fashions ‗Laborers‘ out of fashion, were newly shaped ened edge.‖ Payne dress,‘ as Hawthorne noted, and the with cups for the breasts, transform- ―Lengthening and dropping of working clothes of craftsmen and ing women‘s torsos from eighteenth- shoulder seams, and straightening farmers—, leather , century cones to nineteenth-century and widening of necklines contrib- heavy boots and shoes – even in hourglasses. Sleeves became very uted further to the expansiveness of store-bought fabrics, were still highly full and gathered at the upper arm.‖ the shoulder area.‖ Payne. recognizable and distinct from the Baumgartern. ―High necks also continued to dis- clothing of ministers, and play the Betsy of the previous dec- merchants.‖7 Larson. ade, often made in two or three tiers.‖ Payne. relationship.‖ Payne. linings, trim- mings, ribbons Skirts - ―Spreading contours and Fastenings - ―Practically all of the and flowers the conspicuous horizontal decora- dresses of this era fastened down being added to tion of were typical of the center back with buttons, lacing the old bonnet skirts throughout the decade. Orna- or concealed closings of hooks and frame.‖ mentation might be provided by eyes. Pelisse and walking Nylander. gathered or pleated ruffles, appli- dresses were closed down center quéd designs in self- or contrasting front and often decorated with bows Hats - ―While fabric, tucks, or rouleaus of silk or which did not necessarily function.‖ straw bonnets fur.‖ Payne. Payne and gypsy hats ―As the decade advanced, skirts began to be continued to widen. At first this Wraps – ―The redingote or pelisse imported from was accomplished by goring, later by which was comparable to our mod- in large gathered or pleated fullness of the ern coat dress, continued use during numbers, ex- waistline.‖ Payne. the twenties. In this decade it cept in periods of war and embargo, Ball gowns - ―Ball gowns, perhaps evolved into distinct garments: the New England women and girls mas- in response to the walking or carriage dress made of tered the skills of straw braiding so vogue for sprightly firm material and appropriate for successfully that it is impossible to dancing, were shorter outdoor wear, and a true outer distinguish between an American than any other cos- of warm fabric, more voluminous in and European . Indeed, the tume. Dancing - cut than earlier.‖ term `Leghorn‘ bonnet was used for pers were tied ballet ―Spencers, which gave as much women‘s straw hats regardless of fashion, with ribbons warmth as was needed for middle their origin.‖ Nylander. crossing the instep weather, lengthened as the waistline Hats - ―In the early years of this width. dropped.‖ Payne. decade hats followed much the same Toward the end of the ― Shawls, fur pelerines,and boas curve as hairdress. Bonnets differed period the dipped contributed variety to wraps.‖ little from those observed earlier. sharply downward in center front, Payne. By 1826 however, the brim had inaugurating another cycle of been lifted and the brought pointed waistlines.‖ Payne. Accessories - ― The wearing of forward; once more the wide- jewelry increased during these years, brimmed hat was in the limelight. . . Colorful Fabrics - ―The tendency but was still within modest bounds . Bulky . . . were seen fre- toward more colorful fabrics than as compared with the sixteenth cen- quently in the latter half of the dec- those of the empire period contin- tury. Matched bracelets and rings ade.‖ Payne. ued. Muslin declined in popularity, were now worn, as well as the ear- in favor of satin, velvet, gros de rings and of previous Caps – ―Women general wore caps Naples, lute-string, Irish poplin, and years. Cameos continued in favor.‖ while doing their housework. For machine-made lace. Bobinet, a ma- Payne. afternoon, when calls might be chine-made fabric resembling the ― Parasols and gloves remained made or received, most married net background of lace, had been indispensible.‖ Payne. women wore elaborately embroi- produced successfully in 1809, and dered and embellished `dress caps.‘ patterned lace, within the next dec- HAIRS AND HEADCOVERS Still more elaborately decorated caps ade. . . .‖ Payne. Generally speaking - Wearing and headdresses would be worn to something on the head - ―Neither evening parties and balls. For such Richer tones – ―Popular colors men nor women went without some formal occasions, some young during the twenties were richer in form of head covering when out- women discarded caps in favor of tone than their immediate predeces- doors.‖ Nylander. elaborately carved tortoise shell sors: dark green, purple, bright rose, combs, pile of false curls, artificial cherry, and dark ruby are mentioned Hats – ― . . . fashionable millinery flowers, and even turbans. Such on fashion plates of the era. Plaids was a most important feature of the caps and hair ornaments were con- were made in combinations of red, well-dressed woman. Milliners pro- sidered part of fashionable dress. green and black.‖ Payne. vided elaborate bonnets embellished The simple day cap were considered with a wide variety of trimmings. practical and fashionable; they were Costume - ―The de- While many of the basic hat shapes not imbued with any symbolic sig- gree and8 period of mourning were remained in fashion for up to a dec- nificance.‖ Nylander. determined by the nearness of the ade, almost every season saw new Ladies headdress – ―Loaded to ―In general men wore their serve the function of drawers. ― capacity with ribbons and feathers, hair rather full and long.‖ Baumgartern. these broad-brimmed hats appeared Payne. to take off in flight . . .‖ Payne. Women – Underwear Ladies- early decade/late decade Men - Clean Shaven and ―Custom, , and the neces- ―At their best, of the early AntiBeard - ―As they had sity to keep warm before the devel- twenties had feminine grace, pleasing been since late in the seven- opment of efficient central heating combinations of color and texture, teenth century, virtually all meant that most women continued and variations in decoration without American men were clean-shaven to wear shifts and stays, as they had exaggeration. . . During the latter until the late 1820, when `a portion in the eighteenth century. The nine- half of the twenties, however, taste of the young men,‘ . . . primarily city teenth century equivalents were took a holiday.‖ Payne. gentlemen of fashion, began to sport called different names, and Ladies Evening Wear – ―The hair mustaches.‖ Called by a writer as and followed the new fashion was brushed sleek, drawn up to the ―young exquisites‖ for natural bustlines and high waist- crown of the head, and manipulated ―Beards remained far less accepted, lines.‖ Baumgartern. by separate strands and braids into customarily worn only by a tiny mi- standing loops which required wire, nority of Orthodox Jews.‖ ―Without drawers, women were po- hairdressing, and high-backed combs [bearded men saw persecution] Lar- tentially vulnerable to complete and to hold them erect. Flowers and son embarrassing exposure.‖ Payne. feather were generously intertwined.‖ ―The chin was often clean-shaven.‖ Payne. Payne. ―Women wore under their Curls: ―The hairdress of the early dresses or gowns, and some wore twenties was a relatively subdued WOMEN’S WORK flexible stays to enhance their figures. affair, with curls from the center part Women‘s work ―Darning , Doctors continued to warn about the concentrated over the temples. By mending tears and holes were part of dangers of tight lacing, but the early 1826 sausage curls reminiscent of the a woman‘s work load. . . . In addi- 19th century was actually a time of formal arrangements of the eight- tion to plain sewing, many women moderation in this aspect of eenth century, were massed at each found time to embellish some gar- women‘s dress. Most stays were of side of the forehead. ― Payne. ments and accessories with fine em- cotton, without whalebone; the rigid broidery. . . ― Nylander. and constricting corsets widely worn Men - – ―Top hat, usually in the eighteenth century and later in black or dark gray, had reached its Seamstress - ―Working as a seam- the nineteenth were only adopted by characteristic shape by 1798 and stress was a way for a single woman a few `fashionable.‘‖ Larson dominated the entire nineteenth cen- or a widow to earn a respectable, if Nightclothes - ―Although the more tury.‖ Payne. meager, living.‖ Nylander. affluent had and night- ―The high silk or beaver hat reigned gowns, the majority of men and supreme during this period, varying UNDERWEAR women slept in their daytime shirts.‖ from year to year in height and flare Men - Underwear - ―Underneath Larson. of crown and width and roll of their trousers, men and boys wore brim.‖ Payne. only their shirts, which usually ex- CHILDREN tended to midthigh and sometimes ―The basic item of infant‘s apparel Men’s Hair - ―After 1800, and went to the knee. Women and girls was a napkin or clout, period terms powder went decisively out of fash- also wore longer shirts, often gen- for a diaper. (The American use of ion among the `better sort,‘ spurred teelly called `‘ by 1830, with the term diaper for a baby‘s napkin in part by President Jefferson‘s deter- knee-length stockings, under dresses was derived from the linen fabric minedly casual style—much to the and petticoats. ― Larson. originally used to make it.) New dismay of city barbers. American Drawers - ―Only a small minority of mothers could purchase piece goods farmers and workingmen gave up men – who seem to have worn them for making diapers, although poorer their queues, and joined the well-to- primarily for winter warmth – wore families had to do in adapting simply kept short drawers, and very few women had use recycled hair.‖ Larson adapted them.‖ Larson. linen or rags. ―Some men did not wear any draw- Because safety Curls - ―Curls in abundance adorn ers under their breeches. Instead, pins had not the beau . . . and sideburns meet the they relied on the long tails of shirts yet been in- edges of his high collar.‖ Payne and on linings sewn into breeches to vented, diapers 9 were secured with straight pins. Families of more modest means - buckles for evening.‖ ―The low Enlightened mothers sewed tape ties ―All American children wore dress- heelless , square-toed in the to their children‘s napkins to avoid like garments in their earliest years earlier years of the decade, became using dangerous pins.‖ Baumgar- and put on approximations of adult more pointed at the end. For stur- tern. clothing when they began to do seri- dier wear shoes with leather toe caps ous work. In many ordinary house- and slight heels had practical advan- ―. . . mothers dressed their infants in holds, young children wore only tages.‖ Payne. `nappies‘ or diapers and long, often long shirts of towcloth or cotton white, gowns. Up to the middle of most of the time, heavier and Men’s : Half boots were the eighteenth century, young chil- coarser versions of the garments worn under the wide-legged trousers dren of both sexes had worn which more prosperous children of the early twenties, though such women‘s gowns and petticoats, until wore beneath their outer clothes.‖ trousers as those of the . . . boys put on adult male clothing Larson. could hardly have accommodated around the age of seven.‖ Larson. them.‖ Payne. ―In poor white families as well as 3 types of boots (a favorite foot- ―The practicality of frocks for active slave households, children might wear): children is questionable. Although well have to wait for dresses or ―with heart- made of washable material, light- jacket and pantaloons until they be- shaped, Wellington ―a colored dresses soiled easily and re- came old enough to work in the boot with a higher top, cut quired frequent washing and , fields.‖ Larson. away back of the knee‖, no easy tasks in an era before auto- jockey boot, with a turned matic washers or permanent-press SHOES down top of lighter fabrics. The frocks of poor children Shod and - ―`I had no leather‖ were usually made of dark printed shoes until the ground began to Boots were worn under that did not show soil as freeze‘ . . . those (shoes) he did wear trousers, which were strapped be- easily.‖ were usually vastly oversized and neath the instep. Baumgartern. had to be stuffed with rags, since Slippers – ―for indoor and formal they were made to last him for two wear‖ ―Parents now or three years. Even crude footwear Conservative men wore low shoes put all children was costly enough so that among the and long hose with knee breeches. between in- poor and middling families children Payne fancy and three and many adults went unshod except or four years in cold weather. Barefoot men driv- SLAVES old into loose-fitting muslin frocks ing teams and shoeless women What They Received - ―Slaves that were clearly unlike the clothes working in their gardens could be might receive a or two, or a of adult women. Between four and seen almost everywhere.‖ Larson. single pair of pants and a shirt. Al- ten or eleven, girls stayed in frocks though they were often responsible while boys donned `skeleton suits,‘ ―Shoelessness diminished with the for sewing their own dresses with tight-fitting pantaloons and rapid growth of American ready- the cloth given them by their mis- that were distinctively masculine but made production. The organi- tresses, slave women rarely had the very different from the clothes of zation of New England handcraft time or materials to mend their own their fathers and brothers. Older shoe manufacture on an increasingly or their families‘ clothes. Since plan- boys and girls continued to wear large scale, accelerating in the mid- tation work was hard on clothes as slightly simplified and less formal 1820s, provided steadily lower- well as muscles `ragged‘ and versions of adult attire. But in the priced men‘s, women‘s and chil- `miserably clothed‘ slaves could be 1830s, American families again dren‘s footwear.‖ Larson seen in the fields of many planta- blurred the distinction between the tions.‖ Larson. sexes up to age ten; they abandoned Women’s Fashionable Footwear skeleton suits to dress boys in trou- - ―Shoes showed little change from Shoes - ―Plantation owners were sers and `‘ or long coats, the low slipper and the side-laced buying `slave brogans‘ – shoes made while also giving girls trousers to shoe carrying through the decade. . . especially for the Southern market – wear under their frocks, perhaps to Ackermanm‘s . . . mentions both by the barrelful.‖ Shoes for the first retain children longer in sexless in- boots and shoes of purple leather time. Larson nocence.‖ Larson. and black kid for daytime wear and white satin shoes with diamond What they Received and When - 10 ―On most plantations for which cide with a growing pated in the market economy records survive, field slaves re- belief that women through money they earned by sell- ceived only two suits of clothing were men‘s equal.‖ ing chickens, growing crops in their per year, one for winter and an- Baumgartern garden, playing the banjo or fiddle, other for summer. A man‘s winter or earning tips for household ser- ration usually consisted of a waist- ―Although slave- vice. Newspaper account com- coat with sleeves, breeches or trou- holders considered it plained of slave women who af- sers, and two shirts. A woman gen- their responsibility fected `gaiety in dress,‘ or who were erally received a jacket, , to provide wearing apparel for their `very fond of dressing well.‘‖ and two shifts. For summer, fe- laborers, the style and quality of Baumgartern. male slaves who worked outdoors clothing varied greatly and de- received linen petticoats to wear pended on the occupations, as well Ornamentation and Jewelry - with their shifts; men got summer as the workers‘ perceived impor- ―Slaves, both male and female, breeches or trousers with shirts.‖ tance and status within the white sometimes used earrings as orna- Baumgartern. community.‖ Baumgarten. mentation, a practice carried over from .‖ ―The custom of Skirts and Female Slaves - Hand-me-Downs - ―Tradition men‘s wearing jewelry in one or ―Given the apparent expense and has it that slaves routinely received both ears was especially prevalent inconvenience of full skirts, the hand-me-down clothing from in South Carolina, an area with modern observer might wonder whites. In actuality, only favored or many newly arrived slaves; a few why eighteenth century working- close personal servants, a small per- men born in America continued the women wore skirts, not trousers. centage of the total slave popula- costume.‖ Baumgartern Today, pants seem practical, com- tion, benefited from the practice.‖ fortable, and the logical choice for ―The majority of slaves, however, Handkerchiefs - ―Whereas Anglo active physical labor. Why did did not receive their master‘s used -Americans traditionally carried slaveholders, most of whom viewed clothing.‖ Baumgartern. handkerchiefs in their pockets or slaves as subhuman, distinguish wore them about their necks and between garment for men and for Lack of Individuality - ―One of shoulders, African-Americans often women? With the power to choose the characteristics of field slaves‘ wrapped them around their heads any style for their laborers, slave- clothing was its lack of individual- in a distinctively African manner.‖ holders could have dictated unisex ity.‖ Baumgartern. Baumgartern. to streamline clothing ―The fact that textiles were ordered production. Nevertheless, they in bulk and all the suites made at gave girls and women petticoats, or the same time helps explain the TEXTILES REVOLUTION skirts, to wear while working in the uniformity of field slaves‘ clothing.‖ Industry - ―The continued growth fields alongside men in trousers. Baumgartern. of British textile manufacturing, The answer lies in the eighteenth- ―Additional ready-made clothing and the rapid emergence in the century mind . With respect to ordered by the dozens such as fear- American Northeast, . . . `greatly clothing, female slaves were consid- nothing jackets, plaid hose, and cheapened and multiplied almost ered women first, and slaves sec- knitted Monmouth caps, also added every species of clothing worn.‘‖ ond. Even in the hierarchical soci- to the impression of uniformity and Larson. ety of the eighteenth century, gen- lack of individual sizing.‖ der spoke louder than issues of so- Baumgarten. Fabrics . . . New England women cial class and freedom. Only in the no longer had to spin and weave twentieth century were trousers Lack of Individuality - ―The uni- the textiles they would use. In- accepted as formity of clothing provided by stead, large amounts of American mainstream slaveholders went beyond econom- plain and printed cottons, wool and wearing ap- ics. Cognizant of the fact that dis- mixed fabrics became available parel for tinctive clothing could instill indi- along with the textiles that had tra- women. viduality, dignity, and cultural iden- ditionally been imported from Only then did tity, some slavesholders tried to Europe. These products of Ameri- advances in prevent such personal expression.‖ can factories competed successfully personal hy- Baumgartern. with handmade textiles, so that this giene and time-consuming chore was rapidly, easy-care Earned Monday - ―. . . slaves and probably gratefully, abandoned 11 clothing coin- throughout the colonies partici- in many household. Nylander. Growing abundance - ―All FASHION plates were lithographed by Wil- sorts of cotton fabrics are now so ―Clothing styles continued to liam Pendleton in Boston in 1828 cheap,‖ claimed Mrs. Farrar in the evolve, sometimes slowly and at for the publication in Cotton‘s Young Lady’s Friend in 1836, ―that other times with dramatic speed. Athenaeum.‖ Nylander. there is not excuse for any per- Societal roles and mores, current son‘s not being well provided.‖ events, and professional fashion Display of Finery - ―New She left many poor Americans, designers all influenced clothing. styles, and the yearly attention and white and black, out of her reck- Knowing the evolution of high embellishment of dress that they oning, who might dress more fashion does not necessarily tell entailed, became an ever more comfortably that in previous gen- the scholar how ordinary people important part of many women‘s erations but were far from being dressed for everyday . . . . Never- work and conversation. Ameri- ―well provided,‖ but testified truly theless, fashionable styles are a can city women, from the wives to the variety and abundance in barometer for predicting social of the nation‘s wealthiest men to dress that mass production had evolution and the standing and those of clerks and master car- made widely available. The attitudes of those who wear the penters, were well known for shelves of American stores bore clothes.‖ Baumgartern their display of finery.‖ Larson eloquent supporting testimony; they were weighed down with a Availability and Attention to Engagement in Fashion - profusion of textiles which had Fashion; Fashion Plates and ―Widespread engagement in fash- replaced the products of house- Style - ―The ascendancy of ma- ion was part of Americans‘ par- hold spinning and weaving.‖ Lar- chine-made and machine-printed ticipation in the drama of eco- son. textiles and expansion of the web nomic acquisition.‖ of commerce provided entry to Hygiene and the Quantity of the world of fashion for a widen- Clothing - ―The state of Ameri- ing circle of American women, cans‘ personal hygiene depended who in city and countryside could not only on how often they now buy cloth in a kaleidoscopic bathed, but on how frequently variety of colors and patterns with they could wash their shirts, the hair combs, ribbons, buttons and garments that lay closest to their other accoutrements. High style, skins. Cheaper cotton fabrics also for Americans, emerged from meant more and cheaper shirts, fashionable houses and dressmak- making greater cleanliness possi- ers‘ shops of what Americans ble.‖ Larson. recognized as ―the centers of fashion‖ – and Long. An- Homespun - ―Yet Americans by nual changes in bonnet styles and the millions were still wearing the cut of gowns traveled in a homespun in the 1830s. . . . To month or so to New York, and wear homespun became less a then to other American cities, via sign of humble status than of rus- illustrated magazines, ―fashion ticity, of distance from the net- plates‖ or large colored engrav- work of stores and the commer- ings, private letters and stylishly cial economy it stood for.‖ Lar- dressed foreign visitors.‖ Larson. son. Fashion Plates – ―New styles Growth of wardrobe - were transmitted from city to ―Personal wardrobes grew larger. country in a variety of ways. Women were more likely to own Fashion plates illustrating the more than one or two dresses, newest styles were included in men to have more than a single French and English magazines jacket and pair of two of panta- like Ackerman‘s Repository for loons.‖ Larson many years before they began to appear in American publications. The earliest American fashion 12 FROM THE PAPERS Why men are poor, and women thinner? as those in London. What can I say? I can‘t tell people who are doing their best to amuse From the N.Y. National Advocate 25th ult. So much do they for dinner dress, Dandy Hats -- Our city has been much That nothing‘s left to dress for dinner.‖ and please me that they are not within a hun- , 1820, Columbia Museum. dred degrees of the polish and refinement of amused with a low tripod kind of hat, English society; the very question show their made of fine beaver, and worn by our London fashions for February. – deficiency, from what can be more ill-bred Bang ups. __ Some call the Touch, oth- Opera Dress – dress of white sattin with than to ask anyone what they think of your- ers the Gape and the Stare, the real name chinamsters, set on three rows without self, and it is, in fact, neither more or less.‖ p. is the Bolingbroke. It is about 6 inches stalks—next to hems, a clochette 23 in crown, and 4 in rim, shaped like an trimmed of crape, forming full platts or New York - ―The women do not bear the inverted cone. It is real tippy. We yester- quiltings. The bust trimmed with bouf- test of evening dress. They have not, and, day saw one of the fancy dressed quite fant puffings of silk net confined by tho‘ they have plenty of good clothes on, the unique, blue frock, black silk Wellington bows of white satin Andalusian taste is not good. There was too great a mix- cravat, buff waistcoat, Cossack panta- of pink satin, trimmed with ermine with- ture of flowers and pearls and different kinds loons, high heel boots, black ribbon and out spots – a high standing up collar, of ornaments in the hair. They hold them- selves ill, I saw but one person who danced eye glass, bushy hair frizzed and sur- lined with spotted ermine finshes the well.‖ p. 23 mounted with one of these little tippy cloak. – The hair arranged in long ring- lets, and ornamented with small red Charleston - ―Then the ladies I can compare hats. He looked like an hour glass, and to nothing I ever saw except girls at the cir- minced his steps along Broadway in the roses, and white Spanish bows, the latter cus or strolling players at the Dundee Thea- real Jemmy Jump style. The ladies were very sparingly adopted. of two tre, dressed in my cast-off finery fitted up highly amused, and more glasses were rows of very large pearls. according to their own taste. Such heads, directed toward him, than would be to Walking Dress – Pelisse of gros de such fabrications of silver muslin and tinsel, the Iturbide, had he just landed; Naples the colour of the marshmallow such feathers and such flowers it would re- while our [boy] insensible to all this curi- blossom, festooned down the front with quire the pen of a poet or the pencil of a ously danced up the street, humming the three large wrought buttons. Black vel- painter to do justice to.―p. 208 favorite air of, ―Look dear mad‘am, I‘m vet bonnet, tied with marshmallow- Louisville, KY - ―We had all gone out to- quite the thing; natius hay, tippity ho!‖ coloured ribbands, and crowned with a gether but after walking bout a hundred yards , 1823. Savannah Republican. large full-bloom rose and bows of velvet. Mrs. Cownie and her little charge parted with use and turned into a shop in search of some- A Delicate Mistake! Long black Chantilly lace ; the pelisse is made with narrow French collar, sur- thing they wished to purchase. This proved When Dr. S. Johnson lodged at Kettle to be a milliner‘s shop, and the old lady was Hall, in the of Oxford, at a mounted by a double frill of Urling‘s lace. so delighted with Eliza‘s frock—one which Mr. Thompson‘s, a cabinet maker, the A double gold chain with a watch de- her Aunt Katherine worked for her—that she maid, by an unfortunate mistake, bought pending. Black kid half-boots, and yellow begged Mrs. Cownie as the greatest favour to him one day a CHEMISE of Mrs. gloves. let her see some more of her dresses. Mrs. March 26, 1824, The Georgian. Thompson‘s, to put on, instead of his Cownie very good-naturedly returned home for three of the child‘s prettiest frocks and own shirt. The Dr. contemplating on WORDS FROM THE PERIOD: nothing could exceed the admiration, not nothing but Ramblers and Idlers, and only of the milliner, but of the numerous colossal dictionaries, shoved his arms, Margaret Bayard Smith, Forty Years ladies for whom she sent to see these beauti- head and shoulders into the lady‘s linen of Washington Society. ful things. Now you must know that they before he discovered his error. ―Who ―After breakfast I went forth on a shop- have all been worn and washed for a twelve- has cut off the sleeves of my shirt? Who ping expedition and procured most of month, and I could not but imagine what has cut off the sleeves of my shirt?‖ ex- the winter clothing for the family, self would be the amazement of the Louisville claimed the enraged and hampered mor- included. One article I could not get, -- ladies could they have seen the clothes of the alist, with Stentorian vociferation, danc- curls, French curls, parted on the fore- children of some of my friends who under- ing and tugging and raring for freedom. head, you know how. You must get stand the subject so much better than I do that my little girlie‘s modest equipment could This roar brought up poor Mrs. Thomp- them for me either in New York or Phila. Now remember CURLS!‖ p. 142. not possibly bear comparison with their‘s. son, who with the most consummate However, as those ladies knew no better delicacy, shutting her two chaste eyes, ―The ladies of the Cabinet in their best they were sufficiently astonished with what slipped her hand into the room, and de- bibs and tuckers. Most of them in new they saw. Patterns were taken and a request livered her giant guest from his en- dresses just from Paris.‖ p. 248 made that one of the frocks might be sent to chanted castle. a lady at some distance, but Mrs. Cownie not August 3, 1820. Columbia Museum. Mrs. Basil Hall. The Aristocratic liking to lose sight of her property could not Journey. 1827-1828. carry her good nature so far. They had seen Epigram. - ―And the most disagree- Basil and me walk past and the next petition Wit‘s a feather, has said, able part of the manners of Americans is that was for a loan of my bonnet to copy, a bon- And ladies never doubt it, you are called upon to admire and be sur- net which I got the beginning of last summer, So those who‘ve least within their head prised to such a degree that by the time I but the milliner says that a thing being made Display the most without it. came home, I was perfectly worn out. An- from an English pattern or from what is 13 August 3, 1820. Columbia Museum. other thing too, which is very puzzling is the worn by anyone well known gets sale so constant appeal that is made whether their A Question Answered. much better and sooner than on account of manners and society are not exactly the same intrinsic value.‖ p. 267 . What is the reason, can you guess, GLOSSARY OF Negro jackets and pantaloons Index card box. Susan Mason Mays. 1994. CLOTHING TERMS Osnaburgs – course type of plain textile fabric; fabric most common Columbia Museum and Savannah Bombasine – A textile having a in slave garments (flax, tow or jute) Gazette, 1820. twilled appearance with a silk warp Pelerine. A -collar or short Savannah Republican. 1820-1828. and a worsted weft. It was usually cape, matching or contrasting black, and, because it was lusterless, The Georgian. 1820. was often used for mourning Pelisse. An outdoor garment such Margaret Bayard Smith. Forty Years as a coat or cloak. Boots - Wellington boots/Hessian/ of Washington Society. T. Fisher Jockey Boots Reticule. Lady‘s small . Unwin, London. 1906. Cambric – A very fine thin linen Ruche. Pleated or closely ruffled Mrs. Basil Hall. The Aristocratic strip of lace, net or some soft fabric Journey: Being the Outspoken Let- Casemire (cashmere). A soft to be used as trimming ters of Mrs. Basil Hall, written Dur- woolen fabric with a twill weave ing A Fourteen Mouths‘ Sojourn in originally imported from Kashmir American 1827-1828. G. P. Put- and made of the under hair of Ti- Ruff. Collar which evolved from nam‘s Sons, New York. 1931. betan goats. Later it was imitated in the small fabric ruffle at the draw- Europe. string neck of the shirt or chemise Chamois. Soft, pliable leather from sembling those work in 16th and 17th SECONDARY SOURCES chamois (goatlike antelopes) as well century Old Masters paintings, re- Lynne Zackek Bassett. Textiles for as from sheep and goats vived in the 1820s. Regency Clothing 1800-1850: A Workbook of Swatches and Infor- . A or fill-in for a Sarsnet (sarcenet). A thin silk with a mation. Q Graphics Production low-cut bodice, usually made of fine taffeta weave and a slight sheen Company, Arlington, VA. 2001 linen or cotton and often lace Spencer. A short jacket, often of trimmed contrasting color or material, and Linda Baumgarten. What Clothes Corsage. Bodice or upper part of a ending at a high waistline just below Reveal: The Language of Clothing in women‘s dress the bust. Colonial and Federal America. Co- lonial Williamsburg Foundation, Surtout - "the surtout great coat was Crape (French crepe). A thin, crin- Williamsburg, Virginia. 2002. kled silk, cotton or wool. close fitting and similar in cut to a frock coat. When there were no out- Jack Larkin. TheReshaping of Eve- En gigot. Sleeves shaped like a leg side pockets a small one was some- ryday Life, 1790-1840. HarperPer- of mutton with fullness at the shoul- times placed in the lining of the skirt ennial. 1988. der narrowing toward the wrist. for a handkerchief. One form of Jane Nylander. OSV Documents – En grand bouches. Large curls surtout was the Wellington coat, a Notes on 19th Century Clothing. kind of half and half great coat and Fearnaughts, Monkey Jackets 1980. undercoat (ie frock coat) meeting Fichu. or small , gen- close and square below the knees Blanche Payne. History of Costume: erally of thin, filmy material, that was (1828, Creevery Memoirs)". From the Ancient Egyptians to the worn around the . Tucker. A lace or lawn edging used Twentieth Century. Harper & Row, Gigot de mouton. Literally, leg of (tucked in) around the low-cut neck- Publishers, New York. 1965. mutton, referring to sleeve shapes line which are large at the shoulder and Timely Tresses. Georgian and Ro- fit closely at the wrist. Waterloo frock mantic Era Fashion Plates, 1820- 1839. 2008 Gingham. Plain-woven fabric made from dyed cotton or cotton-blend BIBLIOGRAPHY: Ackermann‘s Costume Plates: yarn. Checks or stripes. [Dorothy in PRIMARY RESOURCES. Women‘s Fashions in England, 1818 the Wizard of Oz] Cornelia Augusta Davenport, 1828; -1828. Dover Publications, New York. 1978. Kilmarnock and Scotch Caps Sarah Rosamond Davenport, 1828; Susannah Clark, 1828. Silhouettes. Leghorn. A plaited Italian wheat Joseph Frederick Waring. Cerveau‘s Master Hankes with Common straw used in hats. Savannah. The Georgia Historical Scissors. Society, Savannah, GA. 1973. Morocco boots Estate Inventory. Isaiah Davenport. Nankeen. A yellowish-brown cot- 1828. ton material Fashion Plates. Davenport House Negro14 shoes Collection.