Contents
Nova Gorica 4 On foot around the city 6 Trg Evrope (Square of Europe) 6 Railway station 8 Museum collection “Kolodvor” (Railway Station) 10 Erjavcevaˇ ulica (Erjavcevaˇ Street) – alley of remembrance 11 Trg Edvarda Kardelja (Edvard Kardelj Square), pine grove and con-cathedral Jesus the Saviour 20 Žabji kraj, Šolska ulica (Šolska Street), Solkan Squares 24 Solkan bridges, war cemetery 27 Ulica IX. korpusa (IX. Korpusa Street) 29 Between apartment blocks to main street 30 City centre, sports park and modern apartment blocks 34 Kostanjevica, Rafut 37 In sporting mood around the outskirts 40 Panovec 40 Socaˇ River 41 Guardians of the Alps 42 A full table of delights 46 Nova Gorica
The settlement of the area of Goriška goes back a long way into the past but older cultures living here left behind very few traces. The first preserved deeds, which clearly mention this region, are from the middle of the Middle Ages, dating precisely from 1001 when Solkan was more important than Gorica. The same deed confirms that the name “Gorica” is of Slavic origin although in later centuries, when Gorica became the centre of the region, it was also written as Görz, Goritia, Gurize, and Gorizia. The area was inhabited by Slovenians, Friulians, Germans, Jews, Austrians, and Italians, who, regardless of their nationality, lived through the same experiences, were part of the same organized political communities, worshipped the same Gods and cursed the same authorities! For many years, from 1500 until the First World War, Goriška (with rare interruptions) belonged to the Habsburg or Austrian Crown. During the First World War, this was where vicious conflicts took place between the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and Italy and as a result local people had to flee as refugees. When coming back, they were faced with ruins and another state: Italy. After the Second World War, precisely, on 15 September 1947, a new state border was created between Italy and Yugoslavia cutting the thousand-year long ties, leaving the town to Italy and encouraging the growth of a new centre, the new Gorica. Politicians, who were ready to invest billion of dinars into the new town, declared it would be “A city to shine across the border”. The urban design by Edo Ravnikar came the closest to the idea, when he drew a new axis, the city’s main road, in parallel with the railway line. The Nova Gorica foundation stone was laid on 13 June 1948. In spite of the belief in the future, which is represented by the construction of the new, we have to nurture the archive of memories. There is no lack of recollections of times past. We would like to invite you to take a leisurely walk through the city, as far as the railway bridge across the Soča River (know in Italian as Isonzo) which will reveal an interesting piece of history about Slovenians at the western front of the national territory. In this particular case, our starting point will be the Square of Europe near the Railway Station. If you would prefer to experience the area in a more energetic way we would like to propose a climb to the peaks above the city, or the recreational activities in the Panovec Forest or near the Soča River. But you can also stay smart and bury yourself in the library, spend the day by visiting museum collections, visit an exhibition or a theatre performance, or catch the last bet in the casino. In any case, do not forget to visit some of the “gostilnas” and restaurants which are in abundance in the city and its vicinity. Welcome!
5 On foot around the city Trg Evrope (Square of Europe)
The newest square in the young city The area of Goriška attracted got its name upon the entry of Slovenia entrepreneurs and artists and, due to its into the European Union on 1 May favourable climate, wealthy noblemen 2004. It is decorated with a mosaic of and retired officers for whom Gorica was the new Europe which was designed becoming a kind of Austrian Nice. An by Franko Vecchiet, a Slovenian artist organised and calm city, it was famous from Trieste. The architectural solution for its multiculturalism. Even simple was contributed by a citizen of Gorica, people, quite often barely literate, had Romano Schnabl who had a difficult task no difficulties in communicating in since he was elaborating on the legacy four languages: Slovenian, German, left by Max Fabiani (1865-1962), the then Italian and Friulan. Did all this belong to most respected Austro-Hungarian town- another time and another perception of planning professional and a renowned the space? Did it dry up with the former architect. Fabiani drew the streets, population? Can it ever return? The joint which run from the station in the form Square of Europe is definitely better of a fan, into five directions, although than the barbed wire in the middle most of them ended up in fields after of the square but all the rest is only approximately hundred metres! Fabiani memories and dreams for now. envisaged a fast development of the city, which actually did start to breathe with the coming of the railway. 6 In sunny weather it is possible to read the exact time on the sun clock made from the driving wheel of a steam locomotive and set up on the Italian side of the square. A peculiarity of the clock is that in the winter time, the exact time is shown on the lower side of the wheel, and in the summer, on the upper part of the wheel.
7 Railway station
This mighty building, which is the line was managed on which powerful oldest public building in the city, was steam locomotives pulled 70 trains a day. constructed together with the Bohinj The direct fast trains sped to Prague, railway line and began its functioning Vienna, Munich, Ostende, and Trieste. in 1906. The plan for the building was The local line to Ajdovščina was contributed by the Vienna architect, supposed to be extended to Ljubljana Robert Seelig. The historical design has opening a new route to the East. a rich decoration of the Secessionist Bohemian inhabitants from Goriška style, the most expressive on the west went to drink coffee in Trieste in the façade and in details of the furnishings: morning, and a beer in Carinthia in unfortunately, many have been lost. the afternoon! Locomotives were From here, a bustling traffic on the maintained and prepared for the
8 journeys in a mighty half-circled Today, only a few local trains to Sežana, engine-shed at the eastern part of Ajdovščina, Jesenice and Ljubljana run the station where a water tower and on it. In 1974, steam locomotives were a coal loading facility are preserved. retired in favour of diesel trains but The entire line from Prague crossing occasionally, the steam powered train Linz and Villach to Trieste, also is put into harness and its whistle can known as the “Neue Alpenbahnen” still be heard. or “Transalpina” is 717 km long and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Europe. Its formal opening which took place on 19 September 1906 was attended by the successor to the throne himself, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria. Unfortunately, less than a decade later, the line found itself in the middle of the maelstrom of the war and after the First World War the state borders cut the route in such a manner that it never shone again with its initial splendour. The border after the Second World War also cut the connection to Trieste.
9 Museum collection “Kolodvor” (Railway Station)
In the twentieth century the roof and occasionally inscriptions like inhabitants of Goriška changed their “We are building socialism” or “Long live state more often than they bought a brotherhood and unity of our nations” new dress, but above all, the border were added. Today, the star is one of cut through the space which they had the exhibits of the museum collection always before felt as theirs. In addition, which presents the events on the this was not an ordinary border, but border from the end of the Second a line of separation between the World War to the Independence of East and the West, protected with Slovenia and its accession to the barbed wire. The railway station European Union in pictures, in words unintentionally became the silent and with objects. herald of the birth of a new society: a great red star was dragged onto the
10 Erjavcevaˇ ulica (Erjavcevaˇ Street) – alley of remembrance
Going south from the railway station busts of famous citizens from the area to the right would take you to Gorica and other people who have worked and to the left Erjavčeva Street takes creatively here or have significantly you to Nova Gorica. Once, this road marked our space are lined up and used to lead to the main city cemetery there are monuments of freer forms which was destroyed during the First that are dedicated to other persons. World War and later relocated several The monuments are not set up one kilometres to the south. During both after another in chronological order wars, this is where people dug and and in the continuation of the text they burned clay; today the last preserved are described as they are encountered building of the former brickworks on the way to the city centre. Along (“Frnaža”) hosts the Local Community Erjavčeva Street and on Edvard Kardelj Centre. The street ends at the Square there are five more sculptures by roundabout at the main city road – young artists. These are not thematically Kidričeva Street. An energy channel connected: “The Nine Heads” by Mirko which was discovered by an interpreter Bratuša (the crossroads with Cankarjeva of geomancy, the landscape poet, Street), “The Stone Circles“ by Zmago Marko Pogačnik, runs across the grassy Posega (1959-2009) located in front of area and through the library and brings the HIT headquarters, “Blocks“ by Matjaž us to the little pine grove where the Počivavček (on a grassy area in front of centre of vitality and energy of Nova the Town Hall), “Pine on the Beach” by Gorica is said to be situated. Jakov Brdar (in front of the Library) and Erjavčeva Street is a real alley of “Ferryman of Souls” by Mirsad Begić remembrance. Along the street, the (next to the Town Hall). 11 After the dissolution of Italy he returned home on foot and joined partisans where he became a commander. He drowned while crossing the Soča River on his way back from a gathering in Brda (in Italian: “Collio”). The sculptor: Stojan Batič.
Milko Kos (1892–1972) was a Slovenian historian, born in Gorica, later the Dean of the University of Ljubljana and a Member Father Stanislav Škrabec (1844–1918) of the Academy. He was most interested was one of the most important in the Middle Ages into which period he Slovenian linguists of the 19th century placed the arrival of the Slavs into the and is considered the father of Slovenian space between the Alps and the Adriatic. phonetics. He stayed in the Kostanjevica The sculptor: Negovan Nemec (1947-87). Monastery from 1873 to 1915 when he withdrew to Kamnik because of the war. He was convinced that Slovenian is one of the most beautiful languages and took the view that language is too great a gift for an individual to fool around with. He published his linguistics studies on a magazine cover: Cvetje iz vrtov Sv. Frančiška (Flowers from Gardens of St. Francis). The sculptor: Mirko Bratuša.
Jože Srebrnič (1884–1944) was a farmer, a politician and revolutionary, a participant of the October Revolution, a founder of the Communist Party of Italy (1921), an organiser of farmer’s cooperatives and Slovenian cultural Lojze Bratuž (1902–37) was a societies, and mobile reading societies. musician and a choirmaster of Goriška, In 1924 he was elected to the Parliament but most of all, a nationally conscious of Rome on a list of the Communist Party Slovenian. During the years when the of Italy, but was confined two years later Slovenian language was repressed, he to islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea (Ustica, conducted numerous Slovenian Lipari). He illegally resided in Ljubljana church choirs, since Slovenian song, for a short period of time, and was later although allowed in churches, was not imprisoned in a fascist concentration welcomed by the authorities. After camp Renicci di Anghiari near Arrezzo. the Sunday mass on 27 December 12 Andrej Budal (1889–1972) from Štandrež near Gorica, obtained a PhD in the Romance languages in Vienna. He was employed as a professor of Slovenian, wrote school textbooks, but also stories, novels and poetry. In addition, he was a good translator from Italian and French: among other books, he translated into Slovenian: Boccacio’s The Decameron. In 1947 he was a part 1936, he was kidnapped by the fascists, of the Goriška delegation at the Paris beaten up and forced to drink a mixture Peace Conference which decided the of petrol and engine oil. Because of future of post-war Italy, including the poisoning, he died in agony on 16 course of the border between Italy and February 1937. A day before his death, Yugoslavia. For many years he led the on his birthday, Slovenian boys came theatre Slovensko stalno gledališče v secretly to sing below his hospital Trstu (Permanent Slovenian Theatre in window. Trieste). The sculptor: Negovan Nemec. The sculptor: Negovan Nemec.
Engelbert Besednjak (1894–1968) was a visible Christian Socialist, a lawyer and a journalist. He wrote for numerous newspapers and magazines, when in 1954 he founded Novi list in Trieste. In the years from 1924 to 1928 he was a Deputy in the Italian Parliament, later his career led him to Vienna and Belgrade where he represented the interests of people from the region of Primorska and Slovenians living under Italy. The sculptor: Negovan Nemec.
13 Anton Velušček – Matevž (1912–44) with his ex-schoolfellow and friend, was one of the best and the most self- Milan Spasić, remained on the ship and sacrificing organisers and leaders of the blew it up to prevent it falling into the National Liberation War in the Primorska hands of the enemy. region. As many others did, he fled to The creators of the monument are: Yugoslavia in 1935 in order to avoid Rafael Nemec (1914-93) and Vasilij Željko. mobilisation for the war in Ethiopia (the Abyssinia immigrants). He soon joined Josip Vilfan (1878–1955) was a lawyer the Communist Party. In the summer of and politician from Trieste, a fighter for 1941 he returned to Goriška where he the rights and equality of Slovenians organised a movement: Osvobodilna and other southern Slavs both within fronta (the Liberation Front) and the the framework of the Austria-Hungary partisan movement which was also and later Italy. In spite of the arson of joined by Italians. In the beginning of the Narodni Dom (The National House) 1944 he was sent to Trieste where the on 13 July 1920 and twenty other enemy caught and tortured him, after headquarters and assembly places of which all traces of him were lost. the Slavs in Trieste on the same day, The sculptor: Janez Pirnat. he believed in the legal order and was a Deputy in the Parliament of Rome Sergej Mašera (1912–41) was a citizen for two mandates (1921-28). Later, of Gorica who moved with his family to he strived for the rights of minorities Carinthia after the First World War and within the framework of the European later to Ljubljana. In 1932 he finished at Nationalities Congress (1925-39) with the Maritime War Academy in Dubrovnik. its headquarters in Vienna which he At the beginning of the Second World presided over in the period from 1928 to War he was a gunnery officer on the 1939. After the annexation of Austria by destroyer Zagreb, anchored in Boka Germany, he moved to Belgrade. He is Kotorska. Upon the capitulation of considered the father of the idea of the Yugoslavia, he had to abandon the ship common Slovenian cultural space. The together with his crew, but he, together sculptor: Negovan Nemec.
14 Ljubljana. He was also an excellent alpinist: during his life, two of his books were published: Imenoslovje Julisjkih Alp (The Onomastics of the Julian Alps) (1929) and Pomen in razvoj alpinizma (The Significance and Development of Alpinism) (1930), and after his death, Iz mojega življenja (From My Life) (1937). The sculptor: Boris Kalin (1905-75), completed by Marjan Keršič- Belač (1920-2003).
Alojz Gradnik (1882–1967), in simple Henrik Tuma (1858–1935) was born words– a poet; but officially also, a judge and died in Ljubljana, but he spent many in Gorica, Cormons, Pula, Cerkno. After years in the Primorska region, in particular the Italian occupation of the region of in Gorica, where he was elected a regional Primorska he withdrew to Yugoslavia deputy in 1895 and 1902. As the first where he was a judge in Ljubljana Slovenian in the regional council he and Zagreb, and for some time also a consistently used Slovenian. He was active legal adviser at the Ministry of Foreign in leftist circles, was an excellent speaker Affairs in Belgrade. He belongs to the and he consistently fought for the equality representatives of expressionism, and in of Slovenians in all fields. He spread the addition to love themes, very often linked initiative “Svoji k svojim!” (One’s own to with sacrifice and death, he also wrote one’s own!), which in other Slavic countries patriotic songs dedicated particularly of the Austria-Hungary was directed to his native village Medana in Brda. At against the Germans, to the boycott of the same time he translated and wrote Italian stores, notaries, and restaurants. songs for children. Owing to his passion At the same time he encouraged the of expression, many place him side by immigration of Slovenian entrepreneurs, side with France Prešeren, the greatest craftsmen and merchants into Gorica. Slovenian poet. The sculptor: Negovan He was the initiator and the founder of Nemec. the cooperative: Trgovska obrtna zadruga (Cooperative of Commerce and Trade). At the same time he was the editor the magazine Naši zapiski (Our notes) in which he wrote about socialism, sociology but also sexology. Because after the First World War the authorities refused his application for citizenship, he could not receive compensation for four demolished houses and his attorney’s office and he moved to 15 several reading societies (čitalnice in Slovenian), also the one in Solkan (1867). He led preparations for mass rallies (tabor in Slovenian) which were the most significant manifestation of the awakening of Slovenian national consciousness in the second half of the 19th century. He was striving for the enhancement of the economic power of Slovenians, encouraged the organisation of industry and the development of trade and commerce. He fought for the deployment of Slovenians in public life, Ivan Trinko Zamejski (1864–1954), in schools, at courts and in documents. a nationalist and a spiritual father Because he failed to introduce the use of Venetian Slovenians, was born in of Slovenian in the regional council a small village Tarčmun under the owing to the opposition of Italians, he mountain Matajur. He was two years resigned. He demanded a protective act old when Slavia Veneta became a for Slovenians and he strove for a united part of the Kingdom of Italy. After Slovenia within the federal arrangement schooling in Cividale he went to Udine of Austro-Hungary, and the idea of a theological seminary, and after his Yugoslavian unity was not strange to ordination he continued with the study him either. The sculptor: Boris Kalin of philosophy and Slavic languages. He was a professor of philosophy and Anton Gregorčič (1852–1925) Italian while simultaneously teaching his from Vrsno was a politically active fellow countrymen written Slovenian. theologian, a professor, a member of By publishing poems and other essays the regional council, a deputy of the in various Slovenian magazines he Governor General of the province and brought Slavia Veneta and Resia closer a member of various regional councils to Slovenian readers. He developed Slovenian geological and ethnological terminology, translated, wrote music, drew and held exhibitions. The sculptor: Negovan Nemec.
Karel Lavrič (1818-76), born in Prem, carried out the greatest part of his legal career in the Primorska region where he was one of the most visible nationalists. He assisted in establishing
16 and commissions; he was also elected and partially also edited numerous into the National Council in Vienna. magazines which importantly In 1890 he became a president of the influenced the growth of the political political society Sloga but later became consciousness of Slovenians in the rather thorn between various political Goriška region, among which the most movements which were increasingly important was the magazine Soča. dividing Slovenians in the Goriška region. Mostly he worked in liaison with Anton He was finally among the founders of Gregorčič. In Slovanska knjižnica, he the Slovenska ljudska stranka (Slovenian published the book Narodne pripovedke People’s Party). He is considered the v Soških planinah (National Stories father of the Slovenian school system: of the Soča Mountains) which as a he encouraged the foundation of private teacher he collected in the region of schools and kindergartens of the society Kobarid. The sculptor: Boris Kalin. Sloga, achieved the transfer of the Slovenian college of education for men Simon Gregorčič (1844–1906) came from Koper to Gorica, had a decisive role from Vrsno to Gorica as a child, where in the establishment of the first national after general upper secondary school general upper secondary school in Gorica he attended the theological seminary. in 1913. During the war he withdrew He started to write songs while still in to Vienna where he dealt with refugee school: he rhymed words with such issues. The sculptor: Negovan Nemec. an ease that he was soon nicknamed the Nightingale of Goriška. He Andrej Gabršček (1864–1938), published three volumes of poetry: by birth from Kobarid (in Italian: Poezije (1882, 1887, 1902), the fourth Caporetto), was first a teacher, and after volume was published after his death moving to Gorica, a newspaper man, (1908). His poems are educational, publisher, bookseller and politician. encouraging, expressive, and patriotic; In 1893 he established the Goriška he later wrote several poems for Printing House, and five years later a special occasions. He was always of printing house in Pula. He published delicate health; he used his last ounce
17 of strength in the translation of The a partisan commander, member of the Book of Job and for his work with special squad and informer, by birth young people in the School’s House. from Podgora (today Italy). He is considered the Slovenian poet The sculptor: Zdenko Kalin. with the greatest number of poems that have passed into folklore. The When passing we may call into the sculptor: Zdenko Kalin (1911-90). market where we can check the produce from farms in the neighbouring Fran Erjavec (1834–1887) was a villages. Ever since its early settlement professor of natural science at high the Goriška region was known for good schools in Vienna, Zagreb and from gardeners who owing to the mild 1871 in Gorica and at the same time climate have supplied the market with an attentive observer and describer early vegetables and various fruits. The of nature. When young he wrote most appreciated local delicacies are the fables, later also stories and traveller’s winter chicory of Solkan or “regut” as it is diaries. His special subject of study called by the locals, the cherries of Brda was the snail; he united his scientific and peaches of Vipava. A cheese maker and traveller’s observations in a wittily or a beekeeper is often a guest at the written essay Kako se je Slinarju z Golovca market, in late summer and in autumn, po svetu godilo (Around the World with mushroom pickers drop by. the Slug from Golovec). He could have become a professor at the University Edvard Rusjan (1886–1911) was not of Zagreb but he preferred to stay in only “our” first pilot but he also personifies Gorica where he had more time for a visionary thinking intertwined with a natural science. The sculptor: Boris Kalin. creative and entrepreneurial spirit. He was reading about aerodynamics and was A few metres to the left, there is a bust simultaneously a constructor, manufacturer of Rastislav Delpin Zmago (1920-56), and test pilot of his planes. He grandly named his father’s workshop in which he and his brother constructed planes: “Fabrique technique d‘aéroplans Rusjan”, the Rusjan Technical Factory for Airplanes. In 1909, he rose into the air for the first time with his plane Eda I in Male Rojce near Gorica and flew at a height of 60m. He made as many as seven planes in his domestic workshop and he flew in all of them. The most successful model of the plane of this period is Eda V; a replica of this aircraft, made of better material, flies even today on special occasions. The Rusjan 18 brothers continued their work in Zagreb the way to the hospital. The monument where they received all the necessary which remembers the Slovenian support of an entrepreneur, Mihajlo “Icarus” was designed by Janez Lenassi Merćep. The aeroplane from 1910 made (1927-2008). The bust of the young pilot a world record in the speed of its takeoff: (creator: Matej Vinazza) is located in the after only 28m it was already in the air. France Bevk Library, one of monumental The successful presentation in Zagreb buildings in Edvard Kardelj Square which was supposed to be followed by a real we spot in front of us. Before that we pass tour, and possibly, a serial production by the memorial to the defenders of of planes. The first stop was Belgrade Slovenian independence 1990-91; its where a huge crowd awaited Rusjan. core is a tank obstacle made of concrete He flew in spite of the unfavourable (creator: Darko Likar), while a few metres weather conditions, performed a series to the right, in Kidričeva Street, there is a of spectacular fly-pasts but then a gust sculpture by Negovan Nemec, dedicated of wind broke the wing and the plane to the Saboteurs of the National crashed on the railway line; he died on Liberation War (NOV).
19 Trg Edvarda Kardelja (Edvard Kardelj Square), pine grove and con-cathedral Jesus the Saviour
Edvard Kardelj Square is actually a piece thorns with the ease of the dance. The of grassland at the junction of Kidričeva monument is set on an energy channel Street and Tolminskih puntarjev Street which has its source behind the Library in which is enclosed by the municipal the pine grove and runs in the direction palace to the north and the Theatre and of Venice. The landscape poet Pogačnik Library to the east. It is an ideal space set another five similar litopuncture for larger events, both assemblies and stones in the area of the Goriška holon concerts. In the non-built up corner (energy field) of which two are located in there is a monument created upon front of the Vid clinic in nearby Kromberk. the thousand anniversary of Gorica, One of these stones presents the sign made by the sculptor Marko Pogačnik. of the identity of the space of Goriška The stone cut in two pieces illustrates where the energy fields of Friuli, the Soča the moment when man cut into the River and the Vipava Valley meet. integrity of the landscape and built the first settlement. The left half brings forward a transcript of the deed of gift signed by the Emperor Oton III from 1001 which mentions Solkan and Gorica, and the right side, a cosmogram of Gorica, derived from a rose. Thorns, says the author, symbolise the shadowy side of the space, its tragic splitting, but six flower leaves overgrow the armour of 20 The Municipal Palace built of stone is (a vine grower binds the vine with trust from 1950. With its calm mightiness it into the future). Frescos in the central infuses trust into authority since from hall, the Green Hall, the work of Slavko far behind it reflects a serious strength. Pengov (1908-88), set in a row scenes In addition to municipal offices, it from Slovenian history, and particularly houses all kinds of offices of public the history of Primorska region. administration. It was designed by Vinko Glanz (1902-1977), four statues France Bevk Public Library, above the entrance are the work of established in 1949, has been housed Boris Kalin and they demonstrate a in a new building since 2000 which is rebellion (breaking of fetters), a fight, considered the peak of the architectural a victory (the gun is laid aside but the expression of Vojteh Ravnikar (1942- soldier is still on the lookout) and peace 2010). The ground floor of this playfully
21 designed building is as a partly closed remains of the former clay pits. The book which communicates with the soil holds water which attracts frogs outer world through a large glassed and birds, also migratory birds. This is area. Everything here guides you to the a real oasis of peace at hand. On the thought that studying is a pleasant and south side there is a well-maintained creative experience. children’s playground with a set of play equipment, and at the eastern edge In a building with a terracotta façade, of the grove there is a monument also the work of Vojteh Ravnikar, we to women of Alexandria by the may laugh or cry during performances sculptur Nika Šimac. In its simplicity it of the theatre: Slovensko narodno represents a a woman- mother figure, gledališče (Slovenian National Theatre) near whom we feel safe. It is dedicated which was formed as the Goriško to thousands of girls and young gledališče (Goriška Theatre) in 1955. women who left for Egypt in the years In 1969 it was renamed Primorsko between 1850-1960 in order to earn dramsko gledališče (Primorska Drama money as nannies, governesses, and Theatre) and in 2004 received the wet nurses of children of rich families status of an institution of national to help their husbands and children importance and the current name. who stayed at home. Their experience Only after four decades in operation, is an intertwining of heroic and tragic the theatre ensemble received a stories; it is the society’s responsibility suitably large stage and the hall and in that this does not slip into oblivion: 2011, the small stage was additionally Društvo za ohranjanje kulturne dediščine constructed. At the back of these two aleksandrink (Maintaining the Cultural buildings there is a pine grove, a Heritage of Alexandria Women Society). unique biotope in the middle of the city, planted in the area of the last 22 We continue our walk on the (1838-1902), the first Slovenian cardinal promenade along Vojkova Street (appointed in 1899), talked him into to the contemporarily designed returning to Gorica. Educated and parish church of Christ the Saviour, nationally conscious, he was a herald constructed in 1982 following the of a demand that religious lessons designs of the architect Franc Kvaternik. should be given in the mother tongue, The Way of the Cross and a 5.3 m and he persisted with this idea also high sculpture of Christ the Saviour during fascism when he confronted were created by the sculptor Stane the seconding of Italian priests into Jarm (1931-2011) in a contemporary Slovenian villages and gave support to expressionist style. He is also the the maintenance of Slovenian singing creator of the statue of the Mother of in churches. Because of constant God with Child in the side chapel. The discrediting, demonstrations and insults church has been a con-cathedral since he asked for dismissal and he died soon 2004. In front of it, there is a bust of afterwards. the Archbishop of Goriška, Frančišek Borgia Sedej (1854-1931), the last of the four Slovenian archbishops who led the archdiocese of Goriška from 1883 to 1931. Before that, archbishops were Germans or Austrians, later Italians. By birth from Cerkno, after the consecration, he went to study at the Vienna Avguštinej (the Imperial and Royal Institute St. Augustine for Education of Priests), where he later taught as a professor. The archbishop Jakob Missia 23 Žabji kraj, Šolska ulica (Šolska Street), Solkan Squares
Let’s stroll eastwards: across the fields we Villa houses the Goriška Museum. There arrive at the route which used to connect are several permanent collections open the Vipava Valley with Solkan. Turn to the to the public. Finds from the time when north: there are some fields which still our territory was traversed and invaded by resist urbanisation, and on the slopes of Langobards are found on the first floor, and the Kekec hill vineyards, olive groves, and objects related to the activity of restoration cherry orchards can be seen. When the are exhibited for the most part of other houses become dense, we are in Žabji kraj, two floors. There is a library located in the a section of Solkan which was known for new premises which is considered to be the most fertile land. At the crossroads, the richest museum library in Slovenia. The there is a monument to refugees: main collections of the Goriška Museum are because of bombing during the First World found a few kilometres away at Kromberk War, all of the people from the village, Castle, once the home of the counts approximately 3000, had to leave their Coronini-Cronberg, a manor house with homes. The sculptor: Vinko Torkar. typical construction elements of the 18th century and a park in the baroque style. We turn right to the Bartolomei Villa, In the vicinity of the Bartolomei Villa, at a countryside mansion of a middle Pirjevčeva Street 5, there is a small private class family from Gorica, who lived here museum of the First World War, which periodically until the Second World War. has been created by Rok and Jordan Boltar. After the expropriation from the owners, Years ago, many people from the locality the post-war authority dedicated the villa collected the remains of arms to sell as scrap to the secret police UDBA, this is where the material, but today, gathering such items Nova Gorica Prison was located. Today, the has become a passion for many collectors. 24 Taking Šolska Street we arrive at Solkan Passing the birthplace of the sculptors, primary school, built in 1905. The Boris and Zdenko Kalin, with a local school was mentioned in 1843, memorial plaque on its façade, we arrive although allegedly the first school was at IX. Korpusa Street. Immediately to the officially established in 1856. Lessons right, there is a gigantically designed took place in private premises for the monument to the fallen soldiers and first half of century! Under fascism it was activists of the National Liberation War, given a high-sounding name after the the work of the architect Vinko Glanz and Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci, but the sculptor Boris Kalin. the content of teaching was not based on humanism since teachers brought from At the beginning of Mizarska Street, the south of Italy conducted a very severe there is a memorial to carpenters from anti-national policy. The school library Solkan, an enlargement of a woodcut with Slovenian books was an early victim by a local, Jože Srebrnič (1902-1991). In and was burnt down in 1923. In 1976, a the 19th century and at least until the first new school was built next to the old one. half of the 20th century, carpentry was the principal craft in the town, since as much
25 as one fifth of men were carpenters or The houses around St. Stephen’s church their assistants. After the Second World (the key is in the parson’s house), are built War it was the carpenters from Solkan densely in the form of a horseshoe; there who formed the core of the furniture should have been two such horseshoes, company (later renamed into Meblo), but only one is preserved in its entirety. instituted in Kromberk. The square next On façades and walls there are memorials to the Solkan church dededicated to St. and signs lined up which provide Stephen (Sv. Štefan), was named after evidence of the varied history of Solkan; Mark Anton Plenčič (1705-1786), a in front of the building housing the Local doctor born in Solkan who worked and Community Centre, there is a stone which lectured in Vienna where the Empress used to mark the border between the Maria Theresa granted him his aristocratic municipalities Gorica and Solkan. At the and chivalric titles. In his work Opera lower square, named after Jože Srebrnič, medicophysica (1762) he developed the there is a central point of attraction, the theory on microorganisms (animalcula fountain, which represents the Soča River minima) as the agents of illnesses and in an abstract way when, near Solkan, defended the idea that every illness has its the river is thorn from the embrace of the own agent. Deriving from this knowledge mountains. Once, a working well with he proposed the use of medicines which drinking water stood here and also the act directly on germs. Soča River near Solkan was drinkable. Once.
26 Solkan bridges, war cemetery
Along Soška Street we arrive soon at the not have the significance of a great transport “Brda” road bridge across the Soča River artery that it once had and even though which has the longest arch of reinforced in construction, only reinforced concrete concrete in Slovenia from which the truly was used for bridges of such magnitude. most courageous are willing to jump, into During the Second World War, quite the void, tied only by an elastic cord (yes, - a often, the bridge was a target of air raids bungee jump!). But our view is soon caught by the Allies but it was hit by only one by the Solkan railway bridge which is bomb which, luckily, did not explode. In considered the last among the great stone 1985 it was declared a technical monument. bridges and which is with its 85m long stone arch really the longest in the world. It was Quite close, there is the cemetery of Austro- completed in 1905 and traffic started to run Hungarian soldiers from the beginning of on it a year later. The journey of the royal train the battles at the Soča Front; entry is at across the bridge was greeted by thousands your own risk. The modest cemetery does who made it clear to the heir-presumptive not give a real impression of the slaughter Emperor Franz Ferdinand that this is where which followed in the next three years and the Slavic race lives. At the beginning of demanded the greatest sacrifices right at the the Sixth Battle at the Soča Front, during very front taking place in Goriška. In addition the night from 8 to 9 August 1916, the to individual graves, in the middle of the strategists of the Austro-Hungary Army blew cemetery there is an ossuary, and above it a it up so that the Italians could not get hold of built tower – obelisk with an inscription “ICH it. Later, when after the Treaty of Rapallo, the HATT EINEN KAMARADEN”, “I had a comrade”. territory was occupied by Italians, the stone This is where approximately 2,500 soldiers arch was reconstructed although the line did are supposed to be buried. 27 28 Ulica IX. korpusa (IX. Korpusa Street)
We turn back to the square and follow The Sabotin Hotel is housed in a former the main traffic route, IX. Korpusa Street. A Puppi Mansion (House Number 35) from dense construction hides narrow streets the first half of the 18th century when it was called gasa, groups of houses around the built by the Mulitsch pl. Palmenberg family. inner courtyard which is usually not seen The mansion, however, changed owners at all from the street. Near the grocery store several times. In 1933 it was bought by Karel there is a monument to the kayakers of Kumar who reconstructed it into a hotel Solkan who organised themselves into with a restaurant, called Villa Montesanto. a society soon after the annexation and The main façade was once on the north with their displays of skill filled people side where there are remains of a formal with enthusiasm at competitions around park. The Lenassi Villa (House Number the new homeland and later on at all 98) belonged to Zofija Dolec Lenassi who international and world championships, in 1857 bought a former farm and turned including the Olympic Games. The sculptor it into a villa with numerous Palladian of the monument: Vinko Torkar. elements, which in that period of time were still a point of reference for the designers of In addition to typical farmers’ and workers’ villas in the Goriška region. The main front houses there are some larger villas which was on the north side while the east side have not served their original purpose looks over the street. A park also belonged for a long time. The largest complex is to the villa in which lime trees, almond Panjakovo (House Number 52-58) with as trees, Japanese cherry trees, and magnolias many as seventeen window axes, a typical grew, which, however, did not survive balcony and entry portal and neo-baroque the maelstrom of the war. Today, a petrol elements, and which after the Second station is sited there. After the First World World War housed the headquarters of the War it housed the institution for abandoned Goriška District, and later the Music School. children, after the Second World War, the Today, this is a residential building. headquarters of the Police. 29 Between apartment blocks to main street
We turn back to Nova Gorica taking and Anton Rutar (1901-96). TIGR Lavričeva Street and then between (Trieste, Istria, Gorica, Rijeka) was an the apartment blocks on Gradnikove illegal organisation which responded to brigade Street. Residential areas the fascist crusade against Slovenians are distinctively designed as parks and Croats with the same means: with many green areas and a space with sabotage and destroying the dedicated to pedestrians. At the Obrtni headquarters of the fascists, pro-Italian dom (Craft Centre) we turn left to kindergartens and schools. They also Jelinčičeva Street. At the crossroads cooperated with Italian communists with Kidričeva Street, to the left and even agreed for the respecting of and right, there are monuments minority rights in a future country once dedicated to two members of the TIGR free from the fascist terror. In the region organisation, Zorko Jelinčič (1900-65), of Goriška, TIGR was active mainly in
30 the cultural field and it was Jelinčič and armament of the Italian army in who was the organiser of assemblies the Friuli-Venezia Julia. In 1938 they in which care was taken to maintain planned an assassination of Mussolini the Slovenian language. Jelinčič was during his visit to Kobarid but did not also an excellent climber. TIGR received carry it out because of their worries support both from the Kingdom of of too many civilian casualties. Even Yugoslavia as well as from Great Britain: though they normally only operated in they received arms from Yugoslavian threes, in 1941 the fascists managed to barracks for their armed conflict with capture nine members of TIGR. Accused the Italian army which actually took of terrorism and war espionage, they place as early as 13 May 1941, and were imprisoned and five were put to they sent information to the British death. The Osvobodilna fronta (OF- the intelligence service on the number Liberation Front) had never admitted
31 the primacy held by the TIGR members A building near the hotel, which in their fight against fascism, although housed all the social and political many partisan units were armed organisations of the former SFRJ, was with weapons, collected by TIGR. The given the nickname Kremlin. In front of recognition with the award of the Order it, there are monuments to the leaders of Freedom of the Republic of Slovenia of the NOVJ (National Liberation War came only in 1997. of Yugoslavia): the political commissar, The sculptor: Zmago Posega. Martin Greif- Rudi (1918-75), the commander, Jože Lemut – Saša Across the street, there is the Perla (1918-42) and vice commander, Mile Hotel, which is boasted to have the Špacapan – Rudi (1910-42), are set leading role of the greatest European up in the line; the sculptor: Negovan casino. In addition to a set of slot Nemec. A little distance away, there machines and gaming tables, guests is a monument to a combatant of are attracted by the poker tournaments, the Spanish War and a partisan, Aleš delicious culinary treats, entertainment Bebler – Primož (1907-81), by the programme, spa centre, conference sculptor Marjan Keršič Belač. Closer to halls. Nova Gorica is actually a place the building of the municipality, there where evening hours easily turn into is also a monument to a revolutionary, morning hours since people wishing who gave the name to the main road, to party may choose from numerous Boris Kidrič (1912-53); the sculptor: casinos, amusement arcades and night Zdenko Kalin. clubs. 32 On the western side of the road, in the Vstajenje Primorske (The Resurrection of greenery near the city shopping centre, Primorska). The sculptor: Negovan Nemec. there are two more monuments, at least indirectly linked to the NOB (National The musician is in the company of a Liberation War). Rado Simoniti (1914- writer France Bevk (1890-1970), who 1981), by birth from Brda, is depicted in his stories of the region preserved for showing the conductor’s vigour. During Slovenians the consciousness of those the NOB, Simoniti organised and led places in Primorska which after the the choir of Slovenians from Primorska, First World War and the Second World composed of “men from across the sea”. War remained within the boundaries These were boys and men, mobilised of the Italian state. In 1923 he became into prisoner work brigades and the principal of the Goriška Library. confined to the south of Italy or to His most known work is Kaplan Martin islands who joined the allies and the Čedrmac (1938) which describes the NOVJ after the fall of Italy. Immediately sorrows of a Slovenian pastor from Slavia after the war, the choir performed Veneta, faced with the prohibition to across the whole of Europe and with the use Slovenian in a church. Bevk himself singing word expressed the demand for was also imprisoned; after he escaped the joining of Primorska to Yugoslavia. from prison he joined the partisans and Simoniti was a productive composer: became one of the leaders of the NOB in he set 600 pieces to music; solos, operas Primorska. Bevk’s opera addresses mainly and choir songs, including among them younger and simpler readers. also the (unofficial) anthem of Primorska The sculptor: Boris Kalin. 33 City centre, sports park and modern apartment blocks
When we turn to Bevkov Square we The city centre where there are, in notice a mock-up cast in bronze addition to shops, a health centre of Ravnikar’s urban layout design with the pharmacy, the cultural house, of Nova Gorica, and next to it a tourist agencies and various offices, monument to the first builders of also several schools, offers numerous Nova Gorica, youth work brigades who possibilities for sitting idly in the open came from the whole of Yugoslavia to and chatting with a cup of coffee or tea, regulate water courses, dig foundations maybe taking a fast snack. The choice and build the first apartment blocks. is mostly limited to pizzas, bureks and The sculptor: Zmago Posega. kebabs, and the old custom is, that the delicatessen prepares sandwiches
34 (local panin) according to the wishes bowling is on our left – unless we are of an individual. We continue our way tempted to be energetic, and take off along Rejčeva Street but before that to do some sports, and raise a sweat!! we throw a glimpse at the courtyard of the Milojka Štrukelj Primary School and In front of the crossroads with Gimanzija (general upper secondary Partizanska Street, there are some school) where we can spot a sculpture contemporarily designed apartment of a pretty fifteen-year old girl, for blocks. Some among them, for which the sculptor, Boris Kalin, received example, the Salamander by Špela the Prešeren’s Award in 1947. In front of Videčnik and Rok Oman, aroused the the technical school centre we notice attention of international experts. The a cubistic sculpture “Costume” by Salamander was included among the Janez Pirnat. The sports park with the ten most attractive and technologically swimming pool, tennis courts, football interesting residential buildings in the stadium, athletic track, gym, and world! Next to it, stands the Star, by
35 the pair: Sadar – Vuga, while Vojteh ruski bloki (Russian apartment blocks) Ravnikar is the architect of the unusual near the Korn stream, the nebotičnik tower block with displaced floors in the (the Skyscraper) and čebelnjak (the Majske poljane quarter. In the following Beehouse), as well as the kitajski zid years, some other notable Slovenian (China Wall) connected apartment architects should be included in the blocks in Gradnikove brigade Street designing of buildings giving character that stand out, while the latest period to the city. From the first decades of the is marked by the currently tallest construction of Nova Gorica, there are skyscraper called Eda Center.
36 Kostanjevica, Rafut
When we cross Erjavčeva, we go up preserved the greater part of its former to Kostanjevica or Kapela which is splendour (paintings, stuccoes) at the most western part of the forest least in the interior, while, in the past reserve Panovec where there are the the façade was also distinctively more church and the monastery seen from playful in its baroque style. far away. The first chapel (a smaller church), dedicated to the Annunciation In spite of being frequently moved, of Our Lady was made built by whereupon thousands of precious the count Matija Thurn in 1623-25 books were lost, the library of the presumably in appreciation because monastery is still extremely rich, the Pope allowed him to marry his having more than 10 000 units in relative. He simultaneously built a various languages. Its greatest value smaller monastery dedicated to the comprises thirty incunabula among church’s caretakers and to the spiritual which the oldest dates back to 1476. lessons for laymen. Both church and Unique is the first Slovenian Grammar the monastery have a varied history Book by Adam Bohorič (1520-92), in which is marked by expansions, Latin written Arcticae horulae succisivae closure, reopening, demolition and (Winter hours, 1584), which is given construction, intrigues among the an additional value by the author’s various orders of monks, destruction dedication. The library, which holds the and salvation of the library, buying name of Stanislav Škrabec, has been a and selling the church organs, altars, cultural and historical monument ever bells. After the last reconstruction in since 1952. the period from 1924-29 the church 37 Since it has always been a locally Minister of Charles X, Pierre Louis Jean important sanctuary with tombs of Casimir deBlacas, who followed him numerous aristocrats from the Goriška into exile. region, Kostanjevica is also the last In the garden under the monastery residence of the French kings from there is a collection of the Bourbon the Bourbon dynasty or a “little Saint roses, probably the most extensive in Denis”, as it is called with all due respect the world. It is worth having a look at it by the French Royalists. In the crypt particularly in the spring time when it is under the altar, in the sarcophagi made in full blossom. of the stone from Aurisina (Nabrežina in Slovenian), there are the mortal remains Our route continues along the ridge of of Charles X of France (1757-1836), Kostanjevica, and then we descend to the last King of France and Navarre the right on the asphalted road towards (between 1824 – 30), his son Louis XIX Rafut-Pristava. In a (currently closed) (1775-84) and grandson Henri V (1820- park on our right hand side, the Rafut 83) who both never ruled, Louis’ wife Villa is hidden which surprises with its Marie Thérese Charlotte (1778-1851), style, closer to Arabic than European Henri’s sister, the Duchess of Parma, construction methods. The villa is Louise Marie Thérèse d’Artois (1819- encircled by three hectares of park with 84) and Henry’s wife, Marie Thérese a free landscape shape and numerous Beatrice Gaetana (1817-86) who made exotic plants (palms, sequoias, bamboo her husband’s last wish come true and trees, camellias, camphor laurels, cork united the last members of the dynasty oaks, various cypresses…). During the in one place, as only Charles X and his years from 1908-14, it was constructed son died in Gorica. The wife of Charles by the architect from Gorica, Antonio X, Maria Theresa of Savoy, is buried in Lasciac (1856-1946) who worked in Graz. The crypt is “guarded” by the Court Egypt from 1882, first in Alexandria and 38 then in Cairo. He was so appreciated, the Institute for Health Care for many that the viceroy Abas II gave him the years. At the moment, this extraordinary noble title “bey”. Lasciac (of course, by and rare example of a neo-oriental birth of Slovenian roots, and Laščak, architecture in non-Islamic world is although he himself felt more a Friulan unfortunately falling apart. Taking the and Italian), supposedly, never lived in footpath and the cycling track next to the villa which was severely damaged the railway line and through the tunnel during the First World War, and he later under Kostanjevica we return to the sold it to the insurance company INA. starting point. After the Second World War, it housed
39 In sporting mood around the outskirts Panovec
The plain on which the urban part soil was a good base for the growth of the city is located is closed on of mighty trees.Because of this forest’s the south side by the hilly Panovec, managers also grew non-native tree a popular recreational area for the species suitable for manufacturing citizens. Some are satisfied with a walk, wooden vessels in the nearby others run or cycle on forest tracks shipbuilding yards. Some of these and paths and the remainder follow may be met when taking a walk on the recommended exercises on the the Forest Educational Path. The forest recreational path. The forest has always boasts a wide diversity of flora and been protected because the flysch fauna.
40 Socaˇ River
In many regards, the Soča River is a true of the season was considered to be a sacred river although it is starting to jump into the river on St. Valentine’s lose the significance which it used to Day. Along the Soča River, there were have for the people from Solkan. This numerous gravel pits where real picnics is where barriers to catch the wood, a were organised on Sundays and during tobacco mill, a real industrial zone with holidays. At the gravel pits, women a sawmill, mills and paper factory were used to dry laundry, washed right in situated. The ferryman (barkador in the river. There are almost no sand or local dialect) used to take you across gravel pits any longer since, owing to the Soča River, later, the shores were dams, there is no substitute for the sand connected by a suspension bridge. which is taken away by high waters. Young people, but also older ones, liked The ruins of former buildings are today to swim in the Soča River: the opening pleasantly included in the facility of the Kajakaški center Solkan (Solkan Kayak Centre) where swimmers also like to stay. The Soča River provides excellent conditions both for the initial courses of kayaking and slalom and sprint races at the highest level. Sport fishing is truly more established in the upper part of the river basin but also in Solkan it is possible to catch a nice example of the Soča trout (Salmo trutta marmoratus Cuvier) or the grayling (Thymallus thymallus). 41 Guardians of the Alps
Škarbijel (646m), Skalnica – Sveta Gora your way around is not too demanding. (681m) and Sabotin (609m) are a trio of Climbs may be grouped into a daily tour hills above Nova Gorica which do not starting in Solkan. belong in the history of climbing but thousands have died to conquer these Škabrijel is the peak closest to the city. peaks. When after Italy declared war The ascent across the pass Vratca (403m) on Austria-Hungary on 23 May 1915, runs partly through a supply ditch where the latter withdrew from the border in we are greeted by a book cut into the the plain area and fortified its defence stone, a work of an unknown soldier. At positions on peaks above the Soča River the top there is a memorial dedicated – the Soča Front commenced during to all soldiers who fell on this hill and which eleven battles were triggered by a lookout tower. It was the worst on Italians, and the twelfth, by a break- Škabrijel during the Eleventh Battle (17 through in Kobarid (Battle of Caporetto), by the united units of the Austro- Hungarian and German army. There are numerous paths leading to these peaks, today a popular excursion destination point. Some are directed through former ditches and caverns which is why, in addition to trekking shoes, suitable equipment is advisable (a helmet, head torch). Orientation boards and signs are not always adequate but finding 42 August – 15 September 1917) when a Sveta Gora (Monte Santo in Italian), record number of guns poured fire onto once Skalnica (Rocky Mountain), the top, and long-lasting cannonading is mainly the hill with the pilgrimage was followed by the charges of storm route but also an extended point of the troops, the “Arditi”. However, all attacks Slovenian Mountain Transversal. The were in vain. Of the defenders, among basilica of the Assumption of Mary these, the soldiers of the 87th infantry was built on a place where Mary holding regiment (from Celje) particularly Jesus in her arms was shown to the distinguished themselves, the war shepherd-girl Urška Ferligoj in 1539 and historians wrote that they survived the asked her “to tell the people to build a hardest battle which had ever been house for her here and ask her for mercy”. fought by any Austrian Army. The official circles did not believe Urška and they confined her but she saved
43 herself twice in a miraculous way and the Queen of the Holy Mountain but after two years of preparation works, the carved ceiling, the Way of the Cross, they started to build the church. It was stained glass windows are also to be consecrated in 1544; upon this occasion, admired. Behind the main altar there is a the Aquileia Patriarch donated the image plate-mould which served the pilgrims of the Holy Mary to the church which is of the first church in preparing souvenirs attributed to the Venetian painter Jacobo with the soft inside of bread. On the Negretti - Palma il Vecchio (Old Palma) front, there is an eloquent inscription (1480-1528). The image was crowned in Ego autem steti in montem sicut prius (I 1717, that is why the Mary of the Holy stand on the mountain as before) taken Mountain is – the Queen. The present from the Book of Moses from the Old church is at least the fourth one on the Testament. Within the scope of the same place, constructed in neo-baroque style in the period from 1924-28 upon the plans of the architect Silvan Barich (in Italian – Baresi; 1884-1958), by birth from Podgrad in Istria. The monumentally designed basilica is adorned with a 50m high bell tower with mighty bells. The main attention is given to the image of 44 church and the monastery there is the Independence War put on display. The Mariano museum. most detailed description is given to the Sixth Battle (6th to 17th August 1916), fatal The ascent to Sabotin is maybe the for Sabotin, when Italian soldiers broke most beautiful one owing to the diversity through the defence circle of the Austro- of the flora and fauna, rich outlooks, and Hungary Army and conquered the top. slopes with precipices above the canyon of the Soča River. This is where the Alps, the Dinaric Karst and the Mediterranean meet. The ruins of the former church of St. Valentine on the south hillside of the top ridge remind us of the once popular pilgrimage path. The entire area has been proclaimed a cross-border Park of Peace. In a mountain shelter and war veteran’s house (once a frontier barrack of the JLA – Yugoslav National Army), it is possible to eat a snack at weekends, and there are also some war exhibits from the First and the Second World War and the 45 A full table of delights
Only in the greatest metropolises exchanged ingredients and methods of are there so many culinary traditions preparation. One would introduce nuts, intertwined as in the region of Goriška. another raisins and the third maybe This was the contact point of the butter and then the combination would German, Latin and Slavic worlds which is begin. A whole range of produce why, without any exaggeration, we may would be introduced in this way: fish, say that people from Gorica introduced pork, juniper berries, tarragon, oregano, in practice the principles of uniting cabbage, chicory, potato, maize. Think of recipes of various nations long before the the fresh fruit on offer such as cherries, international culinary discipline started peaches, apples. And then bring in the to talk about “fusion cuisine”. Nations many different methods of cooking: remained on their own shores but in the frying, roasting, boiling. These ingredients kitchen, the melting pot was king. People and cooking methods are all brought
46 47 together in the Goriška region which is these places. The choice of wine offer is a maritime, a highland, and a peasant enviable. We are at the western part of countryside that is why both shellfish the wine region of the (Lower) Vipava and sea fish as well as game, mushrooms, Valley where both white and red wine produce of the field and vegetables are varieties flourish. Pinela, Zelen, Klarnica all at the heart of the local specialties. and Rebula are thought to originate right here, among the newcomers, introduced Until the frost in 1929, the local into our vineyards in the second half production of olive oil satisfied all of the 19th century, there are almost cooking needs but later nearly every farm completely domesticated Chardonnay, bred a few pigs and used the fat. The Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Vert (once climate conditions enable natural drying Tokai Friulano), Pinot, Merlot, Cabernet of meat: salami, “zašinek” (made of the Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes. pork shoulder), “pršut” (air-dried cured The old tradition, which the local people ham). Numerous dishes are of a seasonal never allowed to be taken away from nature, some common, others with a them, is the distilling of their brandy flavour of a holiday, such as Kostanjevica (similar to grappa), particularly tropinovec, presnic (delicious traditional cake). A strong spirit made of grape pomace. list of good gostilnas and restaurants is Especially older people have always laced long, that is why you should not worry: their coffee with it. They say it’s good for you will not remain hungry. Gorica your health! means a hill with a vineyard: a vine and the wine therefore accompany us from the beginning of the settlements of 48 49 Info
Turistični informacijski center Nova Gorica Tourist information center Nova Gorica Delpinova ulica 18 b, SI-5000 Nova Gorica tel.: 00386 (0)5 330 46 00 fax: 00386 (0)5 330 46 06 [email protected] www.novagorica-turizem.com
Turistična zveza Nova Gorica Nova Gorica tourist board Ulica tolminskih puntarjev 4, SI-5000 Nova Gorica tel.: 00386 (0)5 330 46 02, 330 46 04 fax: 00386 (0)5 330 46 05 [email protected] www.novagorica-turizem.com
MESTNA OBČINA NOVA GORICA Editing: Turistična zveza – TIC Nova Gorica Art director and coordinator: Dejana Baša Text: Toni Gomišček Translation: Perspektive, Maja Vitežnik s.p. Photopgraphy: Mirko Bijuklič, Leo Caharija, Toni Gomišček, Marijan Močivnik, David Verlič, Manuel Kovšca, Metod Zavadlav, photo on the cover: www.istockphoto.com Design: A-media d.o.o. Print: A-media d.o.o. Print run: 2500, 2012-05-21 50 www.novagorica-turizem.com