DISCOVER ITALIA!

Clockwise from top left: Local ceramics for sale; Giorgio Filocamo’s coral shop and museum in Ravello’s main square; ancient villa in the town; a house number sign depicting the town in ceramic; the Torre Maggiore at Villa Rufolo is now known as the Torre Museo; the Villa Rufolo hosts classical music concerts; view of the Duomo bell tower on the left and the entrance tower to Villa Rufolo on the right; looking down the nave of the Duomo; visitors on the Piazza Duomo

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Photography by Laura Thayer Ravello Laura Thayer always finds something new to discover in this popular Amalfi Coast tourist destination

n a coastline famous for its rugged beaches and pretty harbours, there’s one remarkable town on the Amalfi Coast that sprawls across a promontory jutting out of the mountains high above the sea. This is Ravello. It’s a view that is hard to forget once you’ve seen it. As I write, IO gaze across the valley at the town’s unique setting about 1,200 feet above sea level. While it’s one of the most visited towns on the Amalfi Coast, along with Amalfi and Positano, there’s always something slightly more tranquil about Ravello. If someone could bottle up its tantalizing blend of panoramic Mediterranean views, the sweet scent of flowers from its famous gardens, and charming cobblestones streets, they’d have a hot item. As it is, you must make the journey to discover this place where faith, music and creativity flow. There’s no better way to experience this than on a stroll through town. And, unlike most of the rest of the Amalfi Coast, this doesn’t involve quite as many steps. Although there are still plenty!

THE HEART OF TOWN The Piazza Duomo sits right in the centre of Ravello and serves as the religious and social heart of town. Everyone passes through this square surrounded by cafés and restaurants – locals, tourists, kids chasing footballs or learning to ride their bikes. Here the Duomo, with its stark white façade, catches the eye.

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO

DUOMO DI RAVELLO 1 Piazza Duomo Z ☎ +39 089 858311 www.chiesaravello.it Ravello is dotted with churches, but the town’s most impressive is the Duomo located in the central piazza. Inside you’ll fi nd incredible examples of medieval art as well as a small museum below the church. Founded in the 11th century, the church The bronze doors of the Duomo Pulpit in the Duomo is dedicated to San Pantaleone, the town’s patron saint, who is celebrated with a big festival on the 27th of July.

VILLA RUFOLO 2 Piazza Duomo Z ☎ +39 089 857621 www.villarufolo.it At its glory in the 13th century, this sprawling villa was the home of the wealthy Rufolo family. Over the centuries it has changed, yet much was preserved and shaped to how we see it today thanks to the villa’s Scottish owner in the 19th century, Francis Nevile Reid. The romantic gardens are also the setting for the annual Ravello Festival.

MUSEO DEL CORALLO CAMO 3 Piazza Duomo, 9 Z ☎ +39 089 857461 The Ambon Cloister at Villa Rufolo www.museodelcorallo.com Tucked away behind master coral carver At the top of a flight of steps, Just across the aisle are more Giorgio Filocamo’s shop in Ravello’s main DON’T MISS square is a treasure trove of coral pieces RAVELLO a pair of bronze doors mark the animals. This time six lions ranging from intricate jewelry to religious FESTIVAL entrance to the Duomo. The supporting the spiral columns of items. Coming from a family with a Every summer intricate doors were created in 1179 the pulpit created for Nicola and tradition for coral, along with his masterful the Ravello by Barisano da Trani, whose bronze Sigilgaida Rufolo, who appear in work Giorgio has created a small museum Festival adds an doors can also be admired on the profile on the side. This incredible of important examples of coral carving that artistic touch Cathedral of Trani in Puglia and pulpit is a work of art in every can be visited at the shop. to the beauty the Duomo of Monreale in Sicily. detail, from the expressive faces of of Ravello with VILLA CIMBRONE 4 a programme of The doors are adorned with 80 bas- the lions to the elaborate mosaic Via Santa Chiara, 26Z music, theatre, relief panels of religious figures and work and the carved eagle statue ☎ +39 089 857459 dance and decorative designs, and I think I see sitting atop the pulpit. The Rufolo www.hotelvillacimbrone.com cultural events. something new every time I enter. family were the founders of this At the tip of the promontory that Ravello Many of the Down the nave of the church, church in the 11th century, and its concerts take stretches out along is the beautiful Villa there are two incredible works location was conveniently right at place on a stage Cimbrone, a 5-star hotel with extensive built in the Villa of religious art on display. On their doorstep. gardens demonstrating a blend of Italian Rufolo gardens one side is an ambon, a 12th- and English designs. The English touch with the Amalfi century platform once used during ENCHANTING GARDENS is thanks to Ernest William Beckett, who coastline serving services, and on the other a large Just steps from the Duomo and its owned the villa in the early 20th century. as a stunning pulpit from a century later. Both 12th-century bell tower is another backdrop for AUDITORIUM OSCAR NIEMEYER 5 feature elaborate mosaics and tower. This one marks the grand the open-air Via della Repubblica, 12 Z performances. narrative scenes. On the ambon, the entrance to the Villa Rufolo, once ☎ +39 089 858360 ☎ +39 089 twisted body of a winged monster the sprawling home of the Rufolo As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there’s 858422 swallowing a man is striking. It family. After passing through understandably very little modern www.ravello depicts the Biblical story of Jonah, the suitably impressive entrance architecture along the Amalfi Coast. One festival.com but instead of a whale, he’s being tower, a tree-lined pathway leads exception that has made its mark on the devoured by what’s called a pistrice in into the gardens through a cloister local landscape is a striking auditorium Italian, a mythical sea creature with with striking black and white named after its designer, Brazilian architect wings and a long snake-like tail. interlacing arches that show off the Oscar Niemeyer. It was inaugurated in 2010 and serves as a venue for concerts and Now, if that doesn’t strike fear into Arabic influences on the medieval events throughout the year. your heart, nothing will! architecture in the area. At the peak

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RISTORANTE GARDEN 6 Via Giovanni Boccaccio,Z 4 ☎ +39 089 857226 http://lnx.gardenravello.com Take in the panoramic views that Ravello is famous for while dining just moments from the town’s main piazza. The style is elegant yet familial and both the seafood and meat dishes are equally tempting and refl ect Ravello’s position between land and sea. For seafood lovers, the spaghetti with clams is a must. ●€ ●€

TRATTORIA DA CUMPA COSIMO 7 Via Roma, 44 Z ☎ +39 089 857156 Traditional is the key word at this popular trattoria in the centre of Ravello run by Netta Bottone. Local specialities are served in a rustic and welcoming atmosphere that is popular with locals and travellers alike. You can’t go wrong with the pasta sampler, especially since just picking one pasta dish from the delicious array isn’t easy! ●€ ●€

ROSSELLINIS 8 Via San GiovanniZ del Toro, 28 ☎ +39 089 818181 Statue of the Madonna www.palazzoavino.com For a splurge, enjoy an unforgettable culinary experience at Rossellinis in the of the family’s importance in the Those gardens are what bring DON’T MISS Palazzo Avino, one of Ravello’s 5-star luxury 13th-century, the villa was said to travellers from around the world. FESTA DI SAN hotels. This Michelin-starred restaurant have more rooms than there are days During Reid’s time, they were PANTALEONE offers fi ne dining with an incredible Amalfi in the year. already noted for their enchanting Ravello Coast view. The tasting menus are a great While much has been lost over setting with a maze of terraces, celebrates San option and the wine cellar is notable. Open time, the historical character that floral covered pergolas, and Pantaleone with for dinner only; reservations recommended. a festival on remains today was largely preserved, captivating views of the Amalfi ●€ ●€ ●€ thanks to an unlikely source. In the coastline. I follow a pathway to July the 27th which includes BABEL WINE BAR, DELI E ART 9 19th century, Scottish industrialist a hidden-away overlook with the religious rites, Via Santissima Trinità, 13 Z Francis Nevile Reid bought the Church of the Annunziata below a procession ☎ + 089 8586215 that meanders www.babelravello.com through the This cheery wine bar and restaurant is narrow streets, perfect for a light meal, tasty salad, or just Down the nave of the church, there are two and a grand to enjoy a glass of wine or beer. They offer fireworks display a selection of locally produced wine from incredible works of religious art on display over the town after dark. vineyards around Ravello and winemakers villa and spent his life restoring it and settle onto a bench to savour the Discover Ravello’s along the Amalfi Coast. There’s also a good and reviving its splendid gardens. view. I can imagine Richard Wagner deep connection selection of Italian beer on the menu. This legacy is lovingly preserved lost among the gardens, perhaps with their patron ●€ saint during this in the Torre-Museo, a museum the air full of the sweet scent of RISTORANTE PIZZERIA VITTORIA 10 unique summer Z cleverly built into the soaring jasmine, and his pleasure at finding festival. Via dei Rufolo, 3 Torre Maggiore watchtower. While the inspiration for the gardens ☎ +39 089 857947 climbing the tower, videos, photos, of Klingsor in his opera Parsifal. www.ristorantepizzeriavittoria.it and artefacts tell the story of the Many an artist has been inspired by ➤ KEY TO For pizza, you can’t go wrong at this Rufolo family and Reid’s recovery of these very gardens, and it’s easy to RESTAURANT PRICES restaurant and pizzeria just off the main the site. As a bonus for the climb, see why. I know I can never resist (full meal per piazza near Villa Rufolo. The pizza is cooked there’s a stunning viewing platform pulling out my camera or notebook person, not to perfection in the traditional wood- including wine) fi red oven. They offer a wide selection of on the top with a 360-degree and getting lost in the views. ●€ Up to €25 seafood, meat and vegetarian options, so panorama of Ravello and a bird’s-eye A pleasant stroll through ●€ ●€ €26-€50 there’s something for everyone. view of the villa’s gardens. Ravello leads to the very tip of ●€ ●€ ●€ More than €50 ●€

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Infi nity pool at Hotel Caruso Villa Piedimonte Villa Maria

Whether it’s the music, the views, the gardens, or just the opportunity to stroll through the streets, Ravello’s beauty has a magnetism that makes it no surprise that it has inspired travellers from around the world

Ravello is justly famed for its spectacular views

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8 WHERE TO STAY 7 BELMOND HOTEL CARUSO 11 Piazza San Giovanni del Toro,Z 2 14 ☎ +39 089 858801 1 www.belmond.com/HotelCaruso 15 Set in an 11th-century palazzo, the Hotel Caruso offers a tantalizing blend of old- 3 2 6 world style with modern luxury. The elegant rooms feature historic touches, antique 10 décor, gorgeous balconies or private 9 gardens, and offer charming views over the village or incredible sea views. The sky and sea blend into one enchanting vista at the 5 picture-perfect infi nity pool.

VILLA MARIA 12 Via Santa ChiaraZ ☎ +39 089 857255 12 www.villamaria.it Located along the peaceful pathway 4 leading to Villa Cimbrone, this lovely hotel offers a quiet respite with views down a Map data © 2018 Google lush green valley towards the sea. The rooms feel surrounded by nature and are well lit with large windows and doors opening to balconies or terraces. the promontory, which is home to experience. As you stroll down the DON’T MISS the Villa Cimbrone. This lavish Avenue of Immensity, pathways lead LA MORESCA 13 TORELLO Piazza FontanaZ Moresca, 8 estate contains a 5-star hotel and off to hidden parts of the garden L’INCENDIO +39 089 857912 beautiful gardens that, thankfully, where you can explore grottoes, On the third ☎ can be visited by the public. Even if sculptures and temples. Sunday of www.lamorescaravello.com you think you’ve seen all the views September, This small boutique hotel sits high in from Ravello, there are still more to A PLACE FOR DREAMING the hamlet of town near the Fontana Moresca, a small piazza with an 18th-century fountain. From discover. A large wooden doorway Keep going straight to the end of Torello, which lies halfway here the views are spectacular and the opens to the gardens with a view the long pathway to find one of between Ravello setting tranquil. Each of the nine rooms is down the aptly named Avenue of the Amalfi Coast’s most exquisite and the seaside decorated with colourful ceramic tiles in Immensity. This walkway is covered views. Lined with marble statues, village of the local tradition and offers views over the with a wisteria-draped pergola, and the Terrace of Infinity is a place for Minori, takes sea and mountains surrounding Ravello. if you can catch it blooming in the dreaming. Peering over the edge at centre stage. spring it’s heavenly. the sheer drop, I can feel a gust of For L’incendio di VILLA PIEDIMONTE Z14 The gardens here were the refuge salty breeze from the sea and hear Torello, the fire Via della Repubblica, 1 of Torello, the ☎ +39 089 7450036 of another expat, the British banker the seagulls calling as they drift by. houses are all www.villapiedimonte.com and politician Ernest William Meandering back through outlined with A gorgeous private villa sprawling along the Beckett, Lord Grimthorpe, who the gardens I happen across the colourful lights slope of the mountain just below the centre bought the property in 1904. Temple of Bacchus, where Lord as the town is of the village, this hotel offers a secluded set ablaze with escape with those famous Ravello views an elaborate on display from the many balconies and fireworks expansive terraces. Rooms are modern and Even if you think you’ve seen all the views display to honour the comfortable and the hotel offers plenty of Madonna outdoor space as well as a pool for enjoying from Ravello, there are still more to discover Addolorata. the views. While always seeking to retain Grimthorpe’s ashes were interred IL DUCATO DI RAVELLO 15 as far as possible elements of at his bequest. Villa Cimbrone has Piazza Duomo Z the garden’s historical character, welcomed many artists and writers ☎ +39 089 857837 Lord Grimthorpe worked on his over the years, especially during www.ilducatodiravello.com connections back home in London Grimthorpe’s time. Virginia Woolf This cute bed and breakfast is in a to bring in the talents of noted and members of the Bloomsbury farmhouse that has been fully restored English garden designers and Group sought refuge in these very and transformed into a welcoming home. architects like Vita Sackville-West, gardens. When I visit the exotically Breakfast can be enjoyed outside on the Gertrude Jekyll, and Edwin Lutyens decorated outdoor tea room and rose terrace with views across the valley to the neighbouring village of Scala. Set to add a host of varied elements garden, I half expect to stumble into just below Ravello’s central piazza, it’s a blending classic English and Italian a literary discussion taking place or convenient location for exploring the town garden designs into a one-of-a-kind find an artist at work at her easel. and accessing the area’s hiking paths.

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Ravello feels like a home to the international artists. Each season it arts, and it’s a place I return to when brings music, opera, theatre, and I need a moment to re-centre and let dance performances to a specially its beauty fill me with inspiration. constructed stage in Villa Rufolo. My favourite spot to rest and take The outdoor setting is beyond in the view while strolling around beautiful with the Amalfi Coast’s Ravello is the Belvedere Principessa lights twinkling after dark along di Piemonte, a small garden with an the coastline. For classical music oversized view. This shady spot has enthusiasts, the Ravello Concert stellar views down the coastline and, Society hosts concerts throughout most importantly, benches to sit on much of the year in historic and take it all in. locations around Ravello. The view here seems like Whether it’s the music, the a perfectly framed work of art. alluring views, the gardens, or Listening to the birds chirping away, just the opportunity to stroll The Ravello Concert Society hosts classical music concerts throughout much of the year I think back over the artists who through the charming streets in this have been inspired here. Painters and romantic town halfway between the photographers trying to capture a sky and the sea, Ravello’s beauty Villa Cimbrone moment of beauty in the landscape, has a magnetism to it that makes poets and writers carried away by it no surprise that it has inspired creativity, musicians caught up in travellers from around the world. Ravello’s romantic atmosphere. You never know, it may just inspire This is, after all, the place where you, too! Wagner found enchantment and where D.H. Lawrence, E.M. Forster GETTING THERE and countless other writers found tranquillity to write. ➤ BY PLANE Naples, to the north, is the nearest international airport. From here ARTISTIC TRADITION there are direct flights to Belfast, This artistic tradition is celebrated Birmingham, Bristol, Dublin, Edinburgh, every summer during the Ravello Leeds, Liverpool, London, Manchester Festival, an arts and music festival and Nottingham. that has brought such acclaim that ➤ BY TRAIN Ravello is now known as “The City Salerno is the closest you can get to of Music”. While it started in the Ravello by train. From here there are 1950s as a music festival dedicated connections to Naples and Rome. to Wagner, it has transformed over ➤ BY ROAD the years into an arts festival that Ravello can be approached via Sorrento Pergola at Villa Cimbrone or Salerno, but the roads can be busy. attracts lots of different and varied

The Terrace of Infi nity A sunny spot on the Piazza Duomo

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