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Home , Amalfi, Amalfi Drive, Atrani, Conca dei Marini, Furore, Gulf of Salerno

INSIDE: The Hotels 4 HOTELS Broaden Your Visit— and Pompeii 6 of the Guide to the Villages COAST of the 9 Offer Shopping, Cooking & Hiking 10 BEAUTY

Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government Local Favorites 12 Positano and SPECIAL REPORT:AMALFI COAST SPLENDOR

he Amalfi Coast has a dispro- dream of T portionate number of spectacu- lar places to stay, and a number of them are not only among the finest places in , but the world. I urge visitors to stay at least one night in one of these distinctive inns because most of them were originally private homes on land that is so rare and valuable today it’s almost impossible to put a price tag on it (in fact, the ITALYVolume 5, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2006 law is that one may not build on a new piece of land, only restore or add to what’s on an existing proper- SMELL LEMONS. FIND BLISS. ty). Therefore, these hotels are part of the history of the Amalfi Coast, and The Amalfi Coast Awaits are an experience. They are also, by any measure, expensive, but even a Costiera Amalfitana, perhaps is a bit overfished now, the daily catch one night is worth every euro. more than any other part of of fishermen includes a wide variety of L Italy, quintessentially defines fish and shellfish. And of course the the Italian expression dolce far climate remains appealing, Hotel Caruso () niente, carefree idleness, or lit- though it can be very hot in The newly reopened 5-star Caruso is erally, sweet doing nothing. summer and it’s cold and without doubt the Amalfi Coast’s Well before the rainy in the winter — in fact, hotel jewel. Acquired by the Orient- — Strada Statale 163 — was almost all the hotels and Express Hotels group in 1999, the completed, in 1852, the coast restaurants on the Amalfi hotel and grounds underwent a $30 and the land around Vesuvius Coast close from mid- to late- million restoration, reopening with was especially admired by November to mid- to late- 52 guest rooms (including 26 suites the Romans, who named it March. and junior suites, most with sea Felix, happy or views), two restaurants, and an out- Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government fortunate countryside. An Amalfi The Amalfi Coast heated infinity pool. The Caruso abundance of vegetables and proper includes, from west was originally a palazzo dating from fruit (including grapevines planted by to east, Positano, , the 11th century for the D’Afflitto the Greeks, who arrived before the , , family from Rome, who settled in Romans) thrived in the volcanic soil, Amalfi, , Ravello, Ravello after their ship, bound for and still do; some of the best produce Minori, , Cetara and , was wrecked off the you’ll ever eat in your life grows right . and the coast. Over the centuries the original here. The sea (technically the Sorrentine peninsula are not strictly a palazzo was destroyed, rebuilt and Tyrrhenian) also brought forth an part of the coast, and charming as neglected, but its 17th century abundance of creatures, and though it continued on page 7 continued on page 2

“This is the South, exuberant, colorful, sybaritic, Eastern, Byzantine, Greek.” —Waverly Root Hotels on the Amalfi Coast continued from page 1 “I urge visitors to stay at least one private homes on land

dens, meant for strolling; and the infin- Casa Angelina is more vertical than ity pool, which is da morire, to die for. horizontal, built into the side of a cliff And an al fresco meal at the Belvedere in Praiano, whose original name was, terrace is unmatched: the menu fea- fittingly, Pelagianum (open sea). The sit- tures a range of seafood (delivered ting rooms are furnished with Philippe daily), pasta, buffalo tenderloin steak, Starck lamps, white slipcovered sofas and an outstanding selection and chairs, contemporary Moroccan of local mozzarella and toma- tables, and whimsical sculptures made Hotel Caruso toes. Service at the Caruso is of Murano glass as well as modern colonnade and a flawless. Its 5-star rating paintings. The hip lobby level has a few other archi- forces one to ponder the five twinkling-lights ceiling and access to tectural details stars awarded other hotels. If the teakwood outdoor terrace, where survive. you stay here, you may never leave the the pool is found. The restaurant, Un grounds to see Ravello or the rest of Piano nel Cielo, is on the top floor with As the hotel’s history and four-year the coast. Which would be a shame. seating outside and in, and features restoration is well documented on the But you’d be forgiven. Mediterranean dishes enriched by Caruso’s Web site, I won’t duplicate Amalfi Coast flavors. the details here. But by the early 1900s, Piazza , 2 when it became the Hotel Caruso Ravello The 40 guest rooms are pared Belvedere, it was a favorite haunt of (39) 089 858801 down but all have plasma screen many British and American luminaries. www.hotelcaruso.com TVs, interactive digital systems, lots More impressive than the guest list is Rates: 446 to 2,350€ per room, per of space to hang garments, and a very the Caruso’s stunning location, 1,200 night, including half-board (breakfast and one mod bathroom scale. In fact, every- 2 feet above sea level — the hotel is actu- other meal). Complimentary shuttle bus thing at Casa Angelina is so mod that I ally the highest point in Ravello — service to/from Amalfi and Positano, and began to believe that anyone over the with breathtaking views and an air of complimentary boat trips from Amalfi port. age of 50 would feel lost here. Most of utter tranquility. Gift shop with one-of-a-kind items. the hotel’s guests are young — I saw Valet parking garage. only four people who appeared to be Renowned designer Federico Forquet over 50 — and though I am fairly tech- created the hotel’s new interior, for nologically savvy, it took me a good which textiles were specially created, five minutes to figure out how to get cotto tiles chosen for the flooring, and Casa Angelina (Praiano) the water to come out of the shower- rooms painted in rose, sky blue, and As the only contemporary hotel on the head. Additionally, the elevator (glass, Naples yellow. And what rooms they Amalfi Coast, the 5-star Casa Angelina with a view out over the sea) to the are: each guest room is unique, and a is a breath of fresh air. The hotel was beach drops guests off more than few feature roughhewn stone walls originally built in 1975, but underwent halfway and vaulted arches, left as they were a complete transformation, reopening down found; instead of painting over them, in June 2005 as an ultra modern, hip the cliff, the stones remain, reminding you that resort (its logo is also one of the best but you’re staying in an ancient place yet I’ve ever seen). To borrow from the there are with all modern luxuries at hand. hotel’s motto, “sea, sun, and sky become one” at Casa Angelina, and Though the guest rooms deserve a this is no exaggeration. Every room, Casa Angelina rave, to me the best part of the hotel whether public or private, frames are its many public spaces and corners, views of the Gulf of . And as still 200 steps to which never seem to be crowded, the overall look is white-on-white, climb down (and giving guests an extended sense of pri- guests are enveloped by the sky above back up). As the vacy. Other favorite features are the and the sea below. Simplicity and a main entrance to pitcher of fresh-squeezed lemon juice minimalist interior design reign, the hotel is at the with mint next to the reception desk emphasizing the sense of calm that bottom of the for guests to enjoy at any time; the gar- pervades every corner of the hotel. building, there is D.H. Lawrence wrote Lady Chatterly’s night in one of these distinctive inns because most of them were originally d that is so rare and valuable today it’s almost impossible to put a price tag on it.”

a serpentine driveway to navigate from which might offer the coast’s very by firing squad, at the age of 48 in the main road; and from the hotel’s best view. the Calabrian town of Pizzo). outdoor terrace you can climb a stone staircase for a shortcut to Praiano. Owned by the Barbaro family since There is no hint of Murat’s fateful All of this is to say that Casa Angelina 1822, the Convento also has a seawater end within the hotel, which is owned is better suited to those who are pool in a fantastic location: down the by Leni and Mario Attanasio. Part of the physically fit. flight of stairs next to the Torre, so you hotel is Murat’s original home and part are right has been tastefully added. The most The staff at Casa Angelina are remark- above the wonderful characteristics of HPM are ably friendly, energetic, and accommo- sea. And that you feel you’re in an oasis — it’s dating, and no request seems to fluster within the remarkable that you don’t hear any them. No doubt because they work in Torre itself is outside noise even though there is con- one of the world’s most original cliff a special stant foot traffic on Via dei Mulini — side retreats, and appear genuinely suite with, of Hotel Luna Convento and the garden, which bursts with enthusiastic about it. course, the palms and flowering plants. Cars very best views of all. Light-filled Luna aren’t permitted on this street (they Via G. Capriglione, 147 Convento is a swell place to stay. can’t fit) so porters on motorized carts Praiano Guests won’t long forget the magnifi- bring guests’ luggage to and fro. (39) 089 8131333 cent sea views. Though the hotel’s really exceptional www.casangelina.com rooms — numbers 5, 24 and 32 — have Rates: 200 to 720€ per room, per night. Via Pantaleone Comite, 33 views of S. Maria Assunta and the sur- Parking on-site. Excursions, babysitting, and Amalfi continued on page 4 car, limousine, boat, yacht and scooter rentals (39) 089 871002 arranged. New infinity and spa pools in 2007. www.lunahotel.it dream of 3 Rates: 210 to 600€ per room, per night. Excursions and transportation arranged. Hotel Luna Convento (Amalfi) ITALY Kathleen A. McCabe The delightful 4-star Luna Convento Publisher and Editor-In-Chief occupies a prime promontory at the Palazzo Murat (Positano) eastern extremity of town. It’s literally In Escape to the Amalfi Coast, author Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Editorial Assistants: Cailin Birch built right on the curve of SS 163, mak- Robert I. C. Fisher noted that “if Shauna Maher ing parking a bit problematic, but it’s Positano can be likened to a natural Design: Leaird Designs still convenient to everything one amphitheater, the best seat in the house www.leaird-designs.com would want to see and do in Amalfi. is probably the Hotel Palazzo Murat Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Originally a monastery founded by St. (HPM),” which is absolutely true. To Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the Francis of Assisi in 1222, the hotel grew stay at the 4-star Palazzo Murat is to and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- up around the beautiful cloister. stay in the true heart of Positano as it is able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. Monk’s cells became beautiful tile- just steps off Via dei Mulini. This beau- Three ways to subscribe: floored rooms (40 of them, plus 8 tiful building, in the style of the 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, suites), and all the rooms overlook the Vanvitelli (leading exponents of the Washington, DC, 20016 sea. The Convento’s illustrious guest Neapolitan baroque) was the summer 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, list is long, and includes Ingrid home of Joachim Murat, Napoleon’s Mastercard and American Express accepted) Bergman, Wagner and Ibsen. There is a brother-in-law. The story of Murat’s Editorial feedback is welcome. beautiful, private chapel available for life isn’t much mentioned in guide- E-mail: [email protected] weddings, and indeed, when I stayed books, but H.V. Morton, in A Traveller Advertising opportunities are available. E-mail: [email protected] there a wedding was in progress, pre- in , recounts it in full (you Copyright © 2006 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights venting me from having dinner in one may recall that Murat was — falsely — Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- of the pretty, panoramic restaurants. I accused of incitement to civil war and mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, dined instead in the hotel’s Torre conspiring against King Ferdinand IV, Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that Saraceno, directly across the street, and was sentenced to be shot; he died, may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com Lover while staying in Ravello. Hotels on the Amalfi Coast continued from page 3

rounding village, the everything, and it’s irresistible urge to jump into the water rooms at garden level are also just a few to get close to the Sirens’ call — no less special — in fact, down from described as eigher, a high-pitched tone due to the terrace plants, the good and lively or a beautiful song — and then they one has the sense of the Palazzo Murat Mediterraneo restau- would die. Le means the garden being quite vast. rant. But even with Sirens, which of course brings to mind the double-paned glass window in my a vision of an irresistible place, which The pretty, tile-floored rooms have room I could hear every vehicle and means the 5-star Le Sirenuse in every modern convenience, and the every conversation of people walking Positano. Readers of Condé Nast breakfast buffet, served on the patio, is by. My room was on the lowest floor, Traveler rated it Best Hotel in the impressive. The patio is also the setting so it’s possible that street noise was not World in 2003. They also rated it Best for frequent chamber music concerts, a problem in rooms above mine. European Hotel. I wanted to move in. and Al Palazzo, the restaurant, is also Regardless, I have a few other minor outdoors and serves pan- quibbles: when I turned on the bath- The hotel was a family home, after all. Mediterranean dishes. HPM couldn’t room light at about 1:00 a.m., a band of After World War II, four Neapolitan be more convenient, midway between small cockroaches scurried away. Not siblings in the Sersale family reunited at beach and shops, and is one of Italy’s the most comforting sight, but we all the family’s 18th-century summer special places. know the critters are everywhere; still, home in Positano. They made a deci- I didn’t see any others anywhere sion that would affect Via dei Mulini, 23 else. Lastly, the Punta Regina future generations of (39) 089 875177 Web site and brochure describe the Sersale family and www.palazzomurat.it the guest rooms as “lavish,” and set a standard in luxury Rates: 120 to 425€ per I think this is misleading. The boutique hotels: the 4 room, per night, including breakfast. rooms are very nicely appointed, family home became a Excursions, transportation, babysitting, etc. and pretty, and not lacking in hotel in 1951, with eight arranged. Family gozzo available for guests. amenities, but lavish implies rooms and a terrace much more. Punta Regina overlooking…the Islands of the Sirens. Le Sirenuse now Because I did otherwise really enjoy has 63 rooms and two suites, but hasn’t Albergo Punta Regina (Positano) the hotel — the reception desk staff lost the family home atmosphere. Punta Regina opened in 2000, having were exceptionally kind and helpful, previously been a modest pensione. The and the breakfast buffet and the out- Guest rooms are homey and beautiful, remodeling resulted in 18 guest rooms, door terrace are wonderful — I’m will- no two alike, and some with the most including two suites, on four levels. ing to overlook these faults. I do won- beautiful tile flooring made in Vietri — The overall feel of the albergo is warm der, however, if the Punta Regina is a there is one particular pattern I can’t and inviting, with terra cotta floors, 3-star hotel in disguise. stop thinking about, and wish I could pastel colored walls, marble and tile get just one tile so that I could put it bathrooms and antique furnishings. Via Pasitea, 224 under glass and frame it. The public Most of the guest rooms are quite spa- Positano spaces are cozy and filled with unusual cious (those that are smaller have bal- (39) 089 812020 antiques, mostly collected by Franco conies nearly as large as the room), and www.puntaregina.com Sersale (each guestroom includes a all face the street side — rooms on Rates: 175 to 390€ per room, per night, book detailing the history of each higher floors have an uninterrupted including breakfast. Excursions and piece). Of particular interest are the view of the sea. Some rooms have ter- transportation arranged. framed family passports lining a stair- races and balconies, while others have case wall — these are among the most an outdoor Jacuzzi. uncommon pieces in the hotel, and not like any “passport” you’ve ever seen. One of the best features of 4-star Punta Le Sirenuse (Positano) Regina is its location on Via Pasitea: it’s The legend of Odysseus and the Sirens It seems one of the decorating goals is not in the heart of Positano but still is just impossible not to love: sailors to create a feeling that there is no dis- within walking distance of absolutely passing by the Campanian coast felt an tinction between outdoors and in – “The Amalfi Drive — many people would state without hesitation every room Rates: 270 to 3,400€ per room, per night. hotel. I was envious of the big fun this is very Complimentary excursions on the hotel’s group was having — in truth, I’m not open to the gozzo; champagne at sunset on the Riva sure these folks could have hung out outdoors, Aquarama; 500+ DVDs free of charge for as casually and convivially at the swish viewing in guest rooms. Caruso — though visitors to the gar- La Sirenuse dens could easily observe their festivi- ties (the Caruso is a better place for literally, and true privacy). plants are Hotel , Ravello trained to The Caruso, Palazzo Sasso, the Rufolo Rooms at the Cimbrone, which are climb up and the Hotel Palumbo all share identified by number and the name of walls and Ravello with Villa Cimbrone. But only one of the park’s flowers, nicely com- ceilings to eventually tumble out onto the 5-star Cimbrone has the incompa- bine antique furniture, frescoed walls, outdoor terraces. Several floors down rable terrazza dell’infinito (infinity ter- stone fireplaces, and majolica tiles, from the main level is the spa and fit- race), which former resident Gore with satellite TV, high speed Internet ness center, designed by Gae Aulenti, Vidal called “the most beautiful access, and whirlpool baths. Its restau- who created a modern atmosphere of panorama in the world.” Brochures rant, The Flute of Pan, features fresh luminous white glass and teak timber and books about the Amalfi Coast ingredients from the Villa’s own gar- flooring. The spa has won numerous never fail to feature a photo of this stat- dens and excels at Campanian recipes. international awards, and includes a ue-lined terrace on a promontory The restaurant is situated on two lev- Finnish sauna, a bio-sauna, Turkish seemingly hanging over the sea; only a els, with vaulted rooms and a terrace bath and a gym. churl would deny the view doesn’t overlooking the sea. The curving pool’s take your breath away. Poet Gabriele location, too, affords sweeping vistas. Not every room has a terrace or bal- D’Annunzio described it as the only 5 cony, but as the hotel is built into the place in the world where you can be As with many worthwhile destina- side of the cliff, the sea is everywhere. “kissed by eternity.” Best of all for tions, the Cimbrone takes an effort to The restaurant La Sponda, the cham- visitors, the terrace — and the reach: it’s a 15-20 minute walk from pagne and oyster bar, and the pool all surrounding park — is open to Ravello’s piazza — cars cannot get face the sea, and all of Positano is all (5€ fee). any closer than the parking lot spread out around you. Le Sirenuse is below the piazza. The route to the not remote, which may not appeal to As unique as the gardens is the Villa is mostly flat, and there are some, though I can vouch that when hotel itself: dating back to the 11th cen- ramps alongside steps you encounter, you are outside on one of the terraces, tury, when it was called Cimbronium, but for anyone who has difficulty there are no distractions. the Villa was the private home of sev- walking, this may not be the ideal eral aristocratic families before being place to stay. (About halfway to the Today the hotel is run by Franco’s son, acquired by Ernest William Beckett, Villa is another inn, the Hotel Villa Antonio, and his wife, Carla, oversees later Lord Grimthorpe, in 1904 (he Maria, which is a four-star alternative the fantastic Emporio Le Sirenuse bou- designed the clockworks of Big Ben). as it’s still very private, you don’t have tique, across the street. She helps con- The Villa became a destination for to walk as far, and rates are 150 to 235€ vey that Le Sirenuse is really a lifestyle celebrities and others who per night; vil- as much as a hotel. Steinbeck wrote of sought privacy, including lamaria.it Positano that it “becomes beckoningly Greta Garbo and Leopold real after you have gone.” For me, it is Stokowsky. After Le Sirenuse that is Positano, and it has Grimthorpe’s death, the Villa become achingly real now that I have fell into a decline, but in the gone. 1950s it was acquired by the Villa Cimbrone local family Vuilleumier, who Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30 own it still. Now a refined, 19-room Positano hotel, the Villa Cimbrone is almost a (39) 089 875066 destination itself. When I visited, a www.sirenuse.it wedding party had reserved the entire that it is the most beautiful drive in Italy.” — Samuel Chamberlain BROADEN YOUR VISIT: Naples and the Archaeological Sites

on’t come to this area of all for 9€ each way. (39-199-600700; ruins, you’ll be amazed at how fasci- Italy without taking the www.metrodelmare.com). nated you may become if you visit Dopportunity to explore the with a good guide. Official guides are vast archaeological treasures here. You The boat arrives at Naples’ Beverello not only knowledgeable but can get can visit Pompeii (and possibly port which is at the Castel Nuovo. On you into restricted areas that aren’t Herculaneum) on one day, and then fol- your way to the museum, open to regular visitors. low it up on a different day with a visit walk up Via Toledo and Through the Ufficio to the National Archaeological stop at one of the Gay- Scavi of Pompeii and Museum in Naples, one of the world’s Odin chocolate shops (at Herculaneum (39-081- most important archaeological muse- numbers 214 and 427) to 8575347; www.pompei- ums. It holds the world’s largest collec- pick up some beautifully isites.org) you can book tion of classical antiques, and is filled wrapped chocolate bars or a tour in advance (note, with pieces excavated from Pompeii Neapolitan-scene gift Pompeii too, that there are and southern Italy. boxes. Turn right on to Via nighttime tours at Benedetto Croce to Piazza Gesù Nuovo to Pompeii, as well as two new attrac- To get to Napoli from the Amalfi Coast, see the not-to-be-missed majolica-tiled tions — Terme Suburbane and Casa del take a Metro del Mare (Subway of the cloister of Santa Chiara. Return to Via Menandro — that require reservations Sea) boat. This sea route was created to Toledo (which becomes Via Roma) to through www.arethusa.net); but inde- relieve some of the traffic on SS 163, the Museo Nazionale Archeologico pendent guides are typically more pas- and what a brilliant idea it is. The only (Piazza Museo, 19; 39-081-440-166; sionate and have passed more rigorous 6 two towns on the coast it serves are open Wednesday to Monday, 9:00 a.m. training (the first requirement is to Amalfi and Positano; but it’s a great way to 8:00 p.m.; 6.50€). Your trip will be speak two other languages besides to get between these two towns and the enriched immeasurably. Italian). only way to go to and from Naples: if you time it right, you can catch the It’s easy to visit Pompeii, Herculaneum, A superb guide is Bartolo Giusto who, boat that makes the trip in 50 minutes Oplontis, Boscoreale, Stabiae or , with over 10 years of experience, excels (by bus and train it’s two hours, by car, or all six, (you can hire a driver, or take at illuminating Campania’s sites (a over an hour). Boats are quite nice, too, the Circumvesuviana train, www.vesu- half-day tour of Pompeii is 120€) and with plush seats and a bar (of course), viana.it) and even if you’re not into he also arranges boat trips, visits to Naples, and other unique excursions). He can be reached at (39) 335 6280867 or by fax at (39) 081 8083523 and at See Naples and Eat Pizza! www.tour-italy.net (though the site Cantalupo Tours to Italy is offering a great trip to Naples and the Amalfi Coast in 2007. doesn’t convey how truly remarkable and fun Bartolo’s tours are!) Travelers (Two sets of dates: May 21 to May 30 or September 24 to October 3.) Highlights of The interested in seeing the Greek ruins at Pizza Tour of Italy include watching a pizza-making demonstration at a famous pizzeria, Paestum should note that they are at observing mozzarella being made at a traditional water buffalo dairy, and savoring a tasting their most impressive late in the menu at the Feudi di San Gregorio estate.The trips day/early evening, and before setting are led by Charles and Michele Scicolone, authors off for Pompeii, a great book to look at of Pizza,Any Way You Slice It (Charles is also wine is Pompeii: Monuments Past and Present, director at New York’s award-winning I Trulli with acetate pages you lift up to see restaurant and Michele has authored a number of the city in 79 A.D. versus now. books on ).The land-only price of the tour is $3,895 per person, based on double For more information on visiting Naples, occupancy. For more information, call (646) 837- see DOI’s October 2005 issue. 0782 or visit www.cantalupotours.com 1 € = $1.25 at press time Visit www.campaniartecard.it for information on Smell Lemons. Find Bliss. continued from page 1

Sorrento is, it doesn’t require as much odd but is quite savory); wildly deli- Michelin stars in these parts are in effort to get there, and is therefore far cious tomatoes; mozzarella (notably Ravello (Rossellinis in Palazzo Sasso, more crowded with tourists than the from and Aversa); pasta two stars) and in Sant’Agata sui Amalfi Coast and far (notably from the village of due Golfi, towards Sorrento less unique. Both , which pro- (Don Alfonso 1890, two stars). Sorrento and the Amalfi duces 26 shapes of Key grape varieties include Coast are, however, pasta); and limoncello, Falanghina, Fiano, Greco and Code part of the region of lemon liqueur. Dishes di Volpe (whites) and Aglianico Campania, itself divided tend to be simple, but are and Piedirosso (reds). Taurasi into the provinces of prepared with quality and Marisa Cuomo are reliable Naples, Caserta, HarterAmy ingredients; while few producers. , Avellino and Salerno. (The meals may knock your socks off, Amalfi Coast is within the province of none are likely to be bad. The only The best way to really experience the Naples.) coast is to visit Amalfi, Positano and Ravello and one or more of the Many visitors are surprised to smaller coastal villages; include a learn that Campania is the most Essential Reading visit to one of the tiny hamlets densely populated region in Italy. It even higher up, such as is also dominated by the city of Between Salt Water and Holy Water: Montepertuso and Nocelle (a local Naples, second city of Europe after A History of Southern Italy bus can take you there, but it’s Paris in the 16th century and a by Tommaso Astarita more rewarding to hike); and take mandatory stop on the Grand Tour The Food and Wine Guide a boat trip, as you can’t appreciate in the 19th, earning it the moniker to Naples and Campania this coast without seeing it from “See Naples and die.”Cuisine, too, by Carla Capalbo the water. This combination will 7 takes its lead from Naples, as reveal the countless things to see Arthur Schwartz notes in Naples at Naples at Table: Cooking in Campania and do on the Amalfi Coast, and Table: “…since Naples has been the by Arthur Schwartz that it is far more than dolce far pace-setter of southern Italy for so Pompeii: A Novel by Robert Harris niente. many centuries, one can prudently (see review in DOI’s Dec. 2003/Jan. 2004 issue) say that all of Campania cooks la No doubt you will read that the cucina napoletana.” [Note: Though Made in Italy Amalfi Coast has been ruined, this issue of DOI is devoted to the by Laura Morelli (a shopper’s guide to Italy’s spoiled, overdeveloped. But the Amalfi Coast, readers who plan to artisanal traditions, including listings for truth is that there isn’t any more visit Pompeii or Herculaneum will Amalfi, Naples and Vietri) land to develop than when the find that a visit to the National road was built more than 150 years BEST GUIDEBOOKS: Archaeological Museum in Naples ago. The Lattari mountain range is extremely worthwhile.] Cadogan’s Bay of Naples & Southern still divides the coast from the rest Italy, Frommer’s Naples and the Amalfi of Campania. There are more Many Amalfi Coast restaurant Coast, Knopf Guides’ Naples and tourists, and the tourist buses are menus feature some classic Pompeii, Blue Guides’ Southern Italy too large for the road (the mayor of Neapolitan dishes (fortunately Salerno Memo is a monthly periodical with Positano is reportedly the only one much better than most renditions listings for what’s happening on the Amalfi Coast who opposes them as the buses served in American restaurants), from Positano to Salerno. Look for the paper edition have nowhere to park in Positano but also feature dishes with ingre- at newsstands, or browse so tourists can’t spend any money dients wholly unique to the coast www.salernomemo.com there). But none of this can spoil that are never or rarely found in what is one of the most naturally the U. S., including sfusato lemons WEB SITES: beautiful, intoxicating corners of (larger, pointier and sweeter than Only a few sites are worthwhile: the earth. Go. Be inspired. Eat any American variety); colatura www.amalficoastweb.com mozzarella. Smell lemons. Find d’alici (juices from salted anchovies and www.ravellotime.it bliss. cured in a wooden barrel; sounds an integrated ticket for local museums and sites. A Guide to the Villages

A great trip that highlights this view is Italy and Constantinople. During this Positano: the 15-minute ride on a gozzo (wooden time its shipyards were capable of motorized boat) to the beach of , building galleys for 120 oarsmen, Superlatives about Positano abound: which can only be reached by boat. assisting crusaders in reaching the “There are no words which do Walk down to the port and look for the Holy Land. Its most famous citizen, Positano gozzo bearing a red flag Flavio Gioia, was credited with invent- justice…Positano is the imprinted with Da Adolfo, ing (or reinventing, as it’s likely the compendium of all the the name of the restaurant Phoenicians knew it first) the magnetic characteristics of the where you can order a sim- compass. Mediterranean maritime traf- Amalfi Coast, so often ple, delicious meal (try the fic was regulated by the Amalfitan considered ‘divine,’ mozzarella grilled with Tables, which are preserved in Amalfi’s where every moment lemon leaves). Call (39) 089 city hall and which remained valid and every panorama is 875022 in advance to reserve until 1570. Every June there is a race pure pleasure.” (Assunta a day bed (14€) on the between the four ancient maritime Cuozzo) And from John Steinbeck: beach. Boat departs every half hour republics — the Regata Storica della “Nearly always when you find a place from 10:30 onwards. Two unique fea- Repubbliche Marinare — and visitors as beautiful as Positano, your impulse tures of Positano are the scalinatelle may see the boat that races for Amalfi is to conceal it. You think, ‘If I tell, it (stone staircases with hundreds of in the underground arsenal/art gallery will be crowded with tourists and they steps) and Via dei Mulini, which winds between Piazza Duomo and Piazza will ruin it, turn it into a honky-tonk down to the port — it’s very reminis- Flavio Gioia. Trade with the Levant and then the local people will get cent of an Arab souk, and part of it is expressed itself in Amalfi’s architec- 8 touristy and there’s your lovely place covered by a thick trellis of flowering ture, notably in its duomo and the gone to hell.’ There isn’t the slightest vines. You can stroll for hours and stop chiostro del paradiso (cloister of para- chance of this in Positano.” (Harper’s periodically for a gelato, fresh lemon dise), wholly unlike any other on the Bazaar, 1953) Steinbeck went on to say juice, a meal, or shopping (remember, coast, and its narrow, maze-like streets. that there is only room in Positano for this walk, like most on the coast, is all Paper making, too, put Amalfi on the about 500 visitors and no more. He’d on a hill). Positano is definitely the map, and one of the most interesting probably be shocked at how creative most chic village on the things to do here is to visit the Positanese have become at accom- coast. It even has metal the Museo della Carta (via modating more than 500 visitors, but boxes mounted on the Delle Cartiere, 24; nonetheless, Positano is an intoxicating stone walls for dog www.museodellacarta.it). place. Its name may come from poop. Though the Egyptians Poseidon, Greek god of the sea, or invented the art of making Pasitea, one of the nymphs beloved by Amalfi: paper, the process was mas- Neptune. Or a freed slave named tered in Amalfi, which Posides, a favorite of Emperor Claudius The flag of the Italian became a regional center for and perhaps the owner of a Positano navy features the red, white, and green the craft. The industry eventually villa destroyed by Vesuvius, or from of the national tricolor as well as the dwindled, and in 1959, Nicola Milano, refugees from Paestum who were symbols of the four famous port cities whose family had been in the business escaping a Saracen invasion (Paestanus of , , and Amalfi. It for generations, acquired the paper was “person from Paestum”). may be hard to believe today that pret- mill and created a museum. Guided Whatever. The most magnificent view ty, touristy Amalfi was once a powerful tours (available in English) are offered of it is from the water, where you can medieval maritime republic, but it was, throughout the day, usually dependent see how it resembles a presepio, the and its achievements were remarkable. upon how many people walk in, and mini Neapolitan model of the nativity The Marine Republic of Amalfi’s reign visitors can see wooden mallets that — the buildings are packed together lasted from the 9th century to 1137; it pounded the materials into pulp, a around Santa Maria Assunta in the became an outpost of the Byzantine hydraulic wheel, and the Hollander, same way all the characters of the Empire and was the most important dating from 1745, that would squeeze nativity fan out around the baby Jesus. center for exchanges between southern as much water as possible from the In the 13th century, Ravello had a population of the Amalfi Coast

sheets of pulp. At the end of the tour bronze doors, by Barisano da , fea- the guide produces a blank sheet actu- ture 54 panels depicting the Passion of Other villages: ally made in the mill. The shop stocks Christ. Richard Wagner’s arrival in sheets and notecards of the famous, 1880 marked the beginning of What’s noteworthy about the smaller white Amalfitan paper (and it’s cheap- Ravello’s popularity in modern times. villages of Praiano, Atrani, Furore, Conca er than elsewhere in town). Amalfi is at Opera fans know that it dei Marini, Maori, Minori, once a tourist town and a regular was the Cetara and Vietri sul Mare is town, more so than Positano, and this that inspired the gar- that they are simply the anti- is its greatest attribute. den of Klingsor dote to the larger villages they (Wagner reportedly touch. They’re never crowded, Ravello: wrote in the Villa’s they’re (mostly) free of limon- guest book, on May cello shops, they’re like a Idyllic Ravello dates from the 6th centu- 26th, “The enchanted garden of breath of fresh air, and they’re quiet. ry, and about the time of the year 1,000, Klingsor has been found.”) Ravello’s Vietri has its ceramics, so it’s a bit it was populated by a group of nobles illustrious guest list has included, over busier than its neighbors, but even in from Amalfi who had rebelled against the years, Arturo Toscanini, Leonard the middle of summer it’s never as the authority of the dukes of Amalfi. Bernstein, Joan Miró, Escher, Ruskin, crowded as it is in Amalfi. Each village They picked a good spot to enlarge Turner, Gide, Graham Greene, has its particular site or quality — upon as Ravello’s height is easily Tennessee Williams, John Kennedy and Atrani is known for the sunset seen defendable. It is also the characteristic Francois Mitterand. The Ravello Concert from the piazza in front of San Salvatore that makes Ravello truly unique on the Society — also known as The Amalfi de Bireto, Minori has great, free beach- Amalfi Coast — you are so high up Coast Chamber Orchestra Festival — is es, Maiori (bombed during World War 9 that you feel truly removed, not only now the village’s most renowned fea- II, so much of the town is modern) also from the hustle and bustle of the coast ture. The 2007 dates are March 3 has nice beaches and a 15th century but from…the world, actually. Boccaccio through June 28 (39-089-858149; church — but the real reason to visit is described the Amalfi Coast as “…the www.ravelloarts.org). for what they’re not. most delightful place in Italy…a coast…covered with little towns…gar- Naples dens and fountains..amongst which there is one called Ravello,” and a pro- tagonist in the Decameron, Landolfo The Amalfi Coast Rufolo, is Ravellian. Even the vista from its fermata (bus stop) has to be the most Pompeii beautiful place in the world to wait for a bus (though note that from this spot you still have to climb up to reach the village center). Ravello’s piazza is the most delightful in the area, and the best for watching the evening passegia- ta. It’s not as loud and animated as Montepertuso Minori Ravello other tourist squares on the coast, Nocelle Vietri sul Mare though there are plenty of places to Furore Maiori Cetara eat, drink, and shop — the stores sell- Praiano Atrani ing baskets woven from chestnut strips Sorrento Positano Amalfi Conca dei are my favorite (note to self: I will find Marini a way to get one on the plane next time). The Romanesque cathedral of San Pantaleon is beautiful — step inside to see the -laden pulpit – and its of 36,000; today there are 2,500 residents. News, Tips, Deals Shopping for Souvenirs (Riccordi) Cooking on the Coast s in most other parts of Italy, parting *Pasticceria Andrea Panza (Piazza Duomo A with your money isn’t very difficult on 40, Amalfi), dating from 1830, is a beautiful the Amalfi Coast.There’s something for bar/pastry shop with many items perfect for everyone’s taste, but here are a few distinc- souvenirs. tive shops: *Solimene (Via Madonna degli Angeli, 7,Vietri *Sapori di Positano (Via dei Mulini, 6) for sul Mare; www.solimene.com), makes the list, Lemon Lifestyle (39-333-9121961; lemon-related gifts, such as soaps, table not only because the selection is vast but for linens, ceramics, salad servers and lotions. the building itself, designed by architect Paolo [email protected]) in Positano Soleri. You won’t offers in-depth cooking classes and *Artigianato Rallo (Viale Pasitea, 96, miss it: it’s a culinary/historical excursions on the Amalfi Positano) for the largest selection of hand- wild, daring Coast and the Sorrentine peninsula. Host made sandals. Positano is known for its cus- structure with Marco Predieri is amazingly passionate about tom-made sandal shops, and this one will pieces of make a pair (prices start at 30€) for you in his home and his enthusiasm is infectious. ceramics 30 minutes. HarterAmy Guests stay in his family home, Casa pressed into Giovannina, and he tailors each trip to his *La Botteguccia (Via T. Genoino, 13, Positano) the cement There are many items under 10€ clients’ desires (these have ranged from visit- is another custom sandal shop with a small each, and lots of large items for the out- 10 but smart selection. doors.The only catch here is that if you’re ing lemon and olive groves, tasting mozzarella looking for large sets of plates, for example, at its source, and early morning trips with *La Libreria in Positano (Via Cristoforo you may not find a dozen all alike, but if you fishermen for sardines). Marco doesn’t miss a Colombo, 165), the best bookstore on the don’t mind mixing and matching, you’ll get a detail — you’ll never look at a building or a coast, with novels, cookbooks, guidebooks great value and can have the items shipped and an unmatched selection of art, archaeol- landscape the same way again after you see (cost is about 60€ per kilogram). ogy and history books on Naples and them with Marco. A seven-day program is Campania.Also features gifts and paintings by *Positan Flower (Via Pasitea, 51, Positano), priced at $2,900 per person; Marco also Positanese artists. offers ceramics in exclusive and fanciful offers shorter packages. designs, handmade and hand-painted. * Emporio Le Sirenuse (directly across the Artisan/owner Peppe ships worldwide. street from the hotel) is a fabulous boutique — everything from the clothing to the table *Emporio della Ceramica (Via Cristoforo TakeaHike linens is unique, including the hotel’s signa- Colombo, 11, Positano; ture scent, Eau d’Italie, which happily is now www.emporioceramica.com), has two floors There are a number of memorable hiking also available in the U.S. at Aedes de Venustas packed with appealing designs. Celeste and routes on the Amalfi Coast, and all reward (212-206-8674; www.aedes.com) Lorenzo will help walkers with astoundingly beautiful views. you select entire Don’t even think about setting off without a place settings or copy of Landscapes of Sorrento and the Amalfi random patterns. Coast by Julian Tippet.Alternatively, ask at What’s not in stock your hotel for a local guide.Three of the is made to order most noteworthy hikes are the Sentiero degli and shipped later. Dei, Pathway of the Gods, four Emporio’s selection to five hours; the Valle delle is the best I’ve HarterAmy Ferriere walk, about five hours; seen, and its ceramic sets of wine coasters and the Atrani to Ravello hike, a and corks are great gifts. loop of about three to four hours. 1 € = $1.25 at press time The first official stop on the Amalfi and Events G Where to Catch a Bite Getting Around A meal at one of La Strada for pizza and salads the grand hotel Via G. Capriglione, 178 efore deciding where to stay, it’s best to restaurants is Praiano B first decide how you will get around recommended. (39) 089 913081 the coast. Renting a car here is difficult The food is because there is little to no parking and quite good at all ‘A Paranza for when it exists can cost as much as 70€ a day.

of them (a few HarterAmy (mostly) seafood Taxi service is good, but can also be expen- wow dishes I had were the sea bass dishes in a barrel- sive — a 10-minute ride from Praiano to carpaccio at Palazzo Murat; lobster salad vaulted room Amalfi, for example, can cost 50€ (many taxis with citrus fruits and mixed greens at Casa recommended by originate in Positano, so you pay for the Angelina; vermicelli with lemon, anchovy, Slow Food entire trip).The SITA bus line serves all the and parsley at Le Sirenuse; and a perfect Via Traversa towns on the coast but not all buses stop in peach dessert at Hotel Caruso) and the Dragone, 1/2 every village, which can Amy HarterAmy settings insure that the meal will be mem- Atrani be inconvenient at best, orable. But in addition, some great places (39) 089 871840 especially with luggage. to seek out include: The train, of course, La Zagara for delicious sweets does not run on the Via dei Mulini, 6 coast, and can only be Positano met at Salerno, where 11 (39) 089 875964 there are many trains to HarterAmy Naples and elsewhere.The Metro del Mare boat service is also an option; see details on EXPERIENCE Amalfi Life page six of this issue. Hiring a car with a driver turns out to be Amalfi Life is offering Traditional Food,Wine & Culture, a 6-night tour to this region, will run in very economical in comparison, and you April, May and October 2007, and include a cooking lesson at the famous Trattoria Da Gemma work out the details and the price in and wine tasting at Villa Cimbrone. The price of $3,530 per person includes many more activities, advance (this is particularly good for excur- accommodations and nearly all meals. For more information, call (718) 797-9300 or visit sions). Generally, rates for a Naples airport www.amalfilife.com transfer is about 90€, and excursions are about 35€ per hour; but again, prices vary and may be negotiable.Two drivers I highly EuroflyMakesGettingThereEasier recommend are Nello Russo (39-338-643- Eurofly is positively the only fleet of 11 Airbus aircrafts, On board the attendants 1229; www.drivesorrento.com) and Ottavio airline to fly for visiting the each with an average age of were extremely accommo- (39-089-811379; www.positanotaxiservice. Amalfi Coast: it’s the only one only four years. My Eurofly dating. In the high season, com). Nello, who is one of the kindest to fly direct to Naples from experience was great from Eurofly offers three flights a human beings I’ve ever met, worked for the U. S., making the journey beginning to end. I was suffer- week from New York/JFK to Diane Lane when she was in Italy filming so much easier than flying into ing from some back Naples, and the Under the Tuscan Sun. He loves to meet and out of Rome.The Milan- problems, and the roundtrip fare is Americans and no itinerary is too complicat- based airline is Italy’s leading personnel couldn’t $659. In addition to ed for him (he even helped me bargain for carrier in the leisure flights have been more Naples, Eurofly flies seasonal- some plates at Solimene in Vietri). Ottavio is market, and was also the offi- helpful — one ly to Rome, Palermo and the ultimate can-do man — if he could be cial airline for the World representative even left her Bologna. For more informa- two places at once he would — and like Cup-winning Italian soccer post and wheeled my bags tion, call (800) 459-0581 or Nello, he knows an awful lot about team. Eurofly owns a modern over to the conveyor belt. visit www.euroflyUSA.com Campania.Visitors are in good hands with either fellow. Drive is the quiet village of Nerano. A Few of Their Favorite Things

e asked a few residents and worthy of the journey. The store is steeply up within the natural gorge W habituées of the Amalfi Coast literally on the road to Naples, at that the great hotel sits above. It about what they especially love about Via R. Bosco, 969; 39-081-8029791; retains the feel of a peasant garden, this special coastline. Their recommen- www.latradizione.com] and is a fitting extension of this dations (and great tips!) were so family-run hotel that feels like home valuable that we didn’t want to cut a Giulia Sersale, supervisor, plants and (albeit a very grand one). single one, so we’ve included a small flowers, Le Sirenuse, Positano: • La Macchia Mediterranea: the collec- selection here and have featured the • Il Capitano, close to La Libreria, is run tion of wild flowers, grasses, and rest on the Dream of Italy Blog at by an antiquarian who sells original herbs that forms the indigenous www.dreamofitaly.com objects that you’re unlikely to find scrub (like France’s maquis) that Leni Attanasio, owner, with her anywhere else. gives the area its delicious scents of husband, Palazzo Murat, Positano: wild fennel, rosemary, and thyme as • Le Myricae is another art shop I love, you walk through it. These are plants • a boat trip, to anywhere — we are just down the road from Le Sirenuse. that have had to develop life-saving lucky here on the coast because • Ceramica Assunta for ceramics strategies to fend off the intense heat we’re protected by the mountains (Via Cristoforo Colombo, 97; and lack of rain in summer — like and we’re far enough from Naples www.ceramicassunta.it) silver, light-reflecting leaves, or to avoid urban problems. But we’re umbrella shapes to give shade to the right on the water, and you really • Lucia Lucibello and her sisters for plant’s roots. must look at the coast from the boat rental, (39) 089 875032. They are water to understand it. exceptionally nice and helpful. • The tiny dining tables of Ristorante Acquapazza (Corso Garibaldi, 38; • lunch at a small, unpretentious place • special dishes, such as Linguine alla 39-089-261606; www.acquapazza.it) 12 and a lazy afternoon. Puttanesca, Vermicelli di Gragnano al under the portico on the limone della costiera con colatura di alici • the small streets of Amalfi. bay at Cetara, from e foglie di prezzemolo (Vermicelli from which you can • in Positano, Marilu for Gragnano with lemon of the Amalfi watch the men in shoes; Ceramica Coast, anchovy sauce and parsley), the bar across the Assunta (see below) fresh fish baked in a salt crust, and street playing cards, and Emporio della la torta caprese, chocolate and almond the small fishing boats Ceramica for local ceramics; cake with vanilla ice cream. and bathers on the beach, and Brunella boutique for clothing. • La Gavitella restaurant in Praiano and the continuous of (39-089-8131319; www.ristorante brides and grooms, in full bridal Faith Willinger, food writer, host of lagavitella.it) Ask for Francesca or attire, coming down to the port to be Market-to-Table cooking classes, and Salvatore and have the delicious fresh photographed for the incredibly com- author of Eating in Italy and the fish. The beach at La Gavitella can be plex commemorative bridal books upcoming Adventures of an Italian very hot during the day but it truly the Campanians invest a small for- Food Lover: With Recipes from 213 of has the most beautiful sunset with tune in as a record of their marriages. My Very Best Friends: views of I Faraglioni in the distance. • the organic lemons from Solagri, a Definitely deserves a visit and an Guest Editor: Barrie Kerper cooperative of hundreds of organic aperitif. Very special thanks to intrepid travel writer and farmers. editor Barrie Kerper, who was the guest editor of this issue. She wrote all of the • Le Sirenuse, my favorite hotel in Italy. articles. Kerper, author of The • Salvatore and his superlative food Collected Traveler series, shop in Seiano-, La lived for a few years in the Carla Capalbo, author, The Food and California Bay Area, where Tradizione, which is a showcase Wine Guide to Naples and Campania: everyone told her the Big Sur for all the culinary specialties of coastline was “more beautiful Campania. [Seiano isn’t technically • The dry-stone wall, terraced veg- than the Amalfi Coast.” She on the Amalfi Coast, but is not a far etable garden at Hotel Il San Pietro di found that indeed, Big Sur was beautiful, but in no drive, and La Tradizione is definitely Positano: it is breathtaking, built way does it surpass la Costiera Amalfitana. “…in the end nature reigns supreme along the Amalfi Coast…” —Assunta Cuozzo