C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MAY 2011 NO. 18888 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

30th Anniversary BEQUIA HEINEKEN EASTER REGATTA See story on page 13 WILFRED DEDERER MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, for each of the six months spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Book Review ...... Book Review 34 ...... 35 Sky The Caribbean ...... 36 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 38 Readers’ Forum ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index Compass S/V Dolce Vita ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS — Bill Bouchard We truly enjoy the Great job and thanks! covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great resource for all the cruising community. We also frequently do business with your advertisers — this is the way a publication should work, meeting the needs of all stakeholders. is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Eco-News...... Caribbean 10 Regatta News...... 14 ...... 31 Meridian Passage ...... Fun Page 32 ...... 33 Island Poets ...... 33Dolly’s Deep Secrets Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]

G. LALSINGH nd the nd .... 30 ...... 20 Turtle Time Watching the gentle giants Sweet Summer In Bonaire and Curaçao Click Google Map link below to fi 11 ....12 MAY 2011 • NUMBER 188 MAY 2011 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Those idyllic islands ...... Those idyllic islands 16 San Blas Bliss Caribbean Ocean Racing Circuit ... Caribbean Ocean Racing Circuit Southern Style South Grenada Regatta 2011 A Corker! ELIZABETH BROUSE ELIZABETH DEAN BARNES DEAN Cover photo: Photographer Wilfred Dederer seizes a memorable J/24 moment at Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta 2011 Cover photo: Photographer Wilfred Dederer seizes a memorable MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 —Continuedonnextpage For moreinformationontheOECSvisitwww.oecs.org. ent fromanyother.Letthatbeourbrand.” moting, protectingandprojectingwhatmakestheOECSSpacespecial,differ- Instead oftryingtobelikeeverywhereelse,letusfocusinsteadonidentifying,pro- State contributesinthemakingofonemostbeautifulcornersworld. the totalityofthisspacewhichisOECSandcelebratethateachMember She concluded,“Wemustreshapeourthinkingtoembracetheuniquequalitiesof are practicalandresultinthebestoutcomes. ing communitytoworkwiththepublicsectorensurethatplansforindustry ture suchasdinghydocks.Shealsonotedthewillingnessofmembersyacht- fees throughouttheseEnglish-speakingislands,andtheneedforsimpleinfrastruc- importance ofsimplificationandharmonizationclearanceproceduresentry work.” Shehighlightedinputreceivedfromtheyachtingcommunitystressing deserves. Itlendsitselfexquisitelytothedevelopmentofacommonpolicyframe- an incredibleresourceliterallyonourdoorstepandmustbegiventheattentionit nomic developmentoftheOECStobeleftvagarieschance;itrepresents Dr. Ishmaelstated,“Thepotentialofthisindustryistoovitaltothesocialandeco- out ofOECSsailingwaters,notenoughisbeingdonetoimplementtheseideas. adoption ofacommonpolicyandapproachtotheclearancevesselsinto Tourism Ministershasagreedonanumberofconcepts,includingfacilitatingthe Caribbean —ifnottheworld.”SheaddedthatalthoughOECSCouncilof even thoughtheOECSliesatveryheartofbestsailingwatersin tions… yetthissectorremainsonewhosehugepotentialisstilllargelyuntapped, numbers, yachtingcontinuestooutperformthecruisesectorinmanyOECSdestina- that, “Intermsofaveragedailyexpenditurepervisitor,eveninthefacefarless Grenada, Montserrat,St.Lucia,Kitts&NevisandVincenttheGrenadines— member states—Anguilla,Antigua&Barbuda,theBritishVirginIslands,Dominica, Dr. IshmaeltolddelegatesincludingMinistersandDirectorsofTourismfromtheOECS which theOECShasademonstratedcompetitiveadvantage—thatofyachting”. Secretariat, Dr.LenIshmael,focusedherremarkson Lucia onMarch23rd,DirectorGeneraloftheOrganizationEasternCaribbeanStates’ In anaddressgiventotheWorkshoponaCommonOECSTourismPolicyheldinSt. OECS DirectorGeneralHighlightsYachtingTourism &Updates Info

“one of the tourism niche areas in ofthetourismnicheareasin “one common subregionalapproachtoyachtclearanceintheworks? economic developmentoftheOECStobeleftvagarieschance.’Soisa Visiting yachtsatRodneyBay,St.Lucia.‘Yachtingistoovitaltothesocialand MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 visit www. . World Ocean Observer Davara Manu contributor and cruiser Ellen Birrell is developing her writing. Check it out contributor and cruiser Ellen Birrell is developing her writing. Compass Friends on boats nearby heard the collision and rushed to see what had happened. and rushed to see what nearby heard the collision Friends on boats bottom next to sadly found Dan on the with an underwater torch and They dived in able to resusci- elapsed for them to be Sadly, too much time had one of the buoys. 32 years old. tate him. He was concrete time people have hit these say that this was not the first Other cruisers in front of end of Prickly Bay, directly They are by the northwest buoys in the dark. The buoys can- the Grenada coast guard. Marine travel-lift, next to the Spice Island at night. If those commuting by dinghy even with a torch, by not be seen easily, sea surface to see them against a dark cover, it is exceptionally hard there is cloud Coast after Dan’s death, the Grenada Thankfully, a few days with many shadows. fixed all the channel marker lights. Guard quickly responded and set up by Dan’s family in England to collect money A dedicated account has been to help them maintain the lights and buy lifesaving for the Coast Guard in Grenada donations would be much appreciated. The account equipment for the area. Any St. Albans, Hertfordshire, UK. Sort code 20-74-09. details are: Barclays Bank plc, Account 73969568. incident. We can all learn from this tragic (especially with cloud cover) there are many reflectionsFirstly, on the water at night on your eyes, therefore you need to motor slowly andoff the dark sea playing tricks lit). should never presume that channel buoys are always have “all eyes peeled” (you please report it in writing to your local Coast Guard.If you find any lights not working, are tethered to buoys by ropes that are so long they Secondly, sometimes boats can also cause terrible dinghy accidents. Again, please hang below the water. This Coast Guard and hopefully they can address report it in writing to your local the problem. or mount a fixed light on your outboard so that Thirdly, shine a waterproof torch to avoid collisions in the dark. other people can see you clearly underwater torches, say one in the dinghy and one on Fourthly, have at least two pack with back-up batteries included, for any night- board, sealed in a waterproof time emergencies in the water. It was a very sad occa- Dan’s family flew out from England for his memorial service. cruising friends again, get to sion, however they have said they will return to see his know Grenada and do some sailing on Cruisers’ Site-ings Naturelle of Saint-Martin is • Know the nature of St. Martin. The journal of the Réserve The most recent edition can published three times per year, in French and English. be downloaded at www.reservenaturelle-saint-martin.com/doc/journal11.pdf. Windsurfing and Kite • Miss the Tobago Carnival Regatta this year? See the and the Boarding fun at www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUx1V9oa8cs&feature=autofb Optimist racing at www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR278Nit9DE. been building a new blog to • Helping Haiti. Peter Dybing and Mandy Thody have can best help be a multipurpose forum for discussion on how small organizations Haiti. Visit http://100percentforhaiti.blogspot.com. of the World Ocean • Interested in oceans? The quarterly electronic newsletter Observatory has a new format. To subscribe to the thew2o.net and click on “Information and Resources”. • at http://boldlygo.us/Boldly_Go/Log_of_Boldly_Go/Log_of_Boldly_Go.html. —Continued on next page , at Marigot, St. Martin. As a pioneer hang-glider, a 400- Martin. As a pioneer hang-glider, , at Marigot, St. (“Sea Bird”). He fell in love with Grenada and its people (“Sea Bird”). He fell in love with Grenada and its people Wanderlust 3 Davara Manu Continued from previous page Continued from to enjoy long solo bluewater passages and cruising and racing in the Caribbean. to enjoy long solo bluewater passages and cruising and robbers, also while anchored Last June, Harker was attacked and badly beaten by at St. Martin. DAN HEMLEY recently to live on his Denise Cluistra reports: Dan Hemley moved from England Colvic 50, and decided to make Grenada his new home. 5th, he hit an un-lit concrete While dinghying to his boat at about 9:00PM on March he was knocked uncon- channel marker buoy. Judging from the gash on his head scious, fell into the sea, and drowned. — Eight Bells MIKE HARKER stroke aboard early April after suffering a Mike Harker, 64, died in Circumnavigator his Hunter 49, foot free-fall in 1977 while flying off Grenada left him in a nearly yearlong coma and left him in a nearly yearlong 1977 while flying off Grenada foot free-fall in and went on his strong will, he recovered the waist down. Owing to paralyzed from MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Island resort(www.baganara.com)offersascenicanchorageandwelcomescruis- groceries andbasicservicesareavailableinBartica,theriversideBaganara of rivertrafficandcurrents.TheEssequiboRiveroffersnoyachtservices Anchorage intheriverisgenerallyunrestricted,butuseyourcommonsenselight about tidesandweather!” clearing out,someleewayisgivenaboutactualdeparturetime:“Weunderstand Georgetown foranextension.Bartica’sairportcouldallowcrewchanges.After to seeallcrew,andwillgiveyou90days,afterwhichcanapplyin Customs clearancefeeisaboutUS$13inandanotherout.Immigrationwants drivers orwharfcoordinatorwheretotieup)andgothenearbyoffices.The to cometheboat.Uponarrival,anchor,dinghyin At Bartica,younolongerhavetocallCustomsandImmigrationwaitforthem sage fromTrinidad. yacht amonth.MostarriveinJulyandAugust,makingtheroughly400-milepas- Customs andImmigrationatBarticacurrentlyclearanaverageofaboutone says thatwhilehehasseenanincreaseinyachtarrivalsoverthepastyearortwo, Guyana remainsoffthebeatentrackformostcruisers,however.CorporalDodson tells port ofentryforyachtsvisitingGuyana,andImmigrationofficerCorporalDodson The smalltownofBartica,about35milesuptheEssequiboRiver,ismostpopular Guyana PortSays‘Welcome’toYachts — port ofBartica The commercialwharf,or‘stelling’,attheyacht-friendlyEssequiboRiver Continued frompreviouspage Compass readers,“Byallmeans,come—wewelcomeyou!” stelling (asktheferry per se

, but TOM HOPMAN TOM Good tohaveyouwithus! the MarketPlacesectionpages42through45. Villamar gourmetfoodsofSt.Vincent,onpage36andCapitalSignalTrinidad,in Trinidad, onpage28;theSt.MaartenMarineTradesAssociation,17; In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For [email protected]. get thatthereisfreewirelessinTyrrelBay—justmakeacontributiontoCCEF. tions withthestaffatCarriacouYachtClubonyourwaythrough.And,don’tfor- somewhere elseduringtheCarriacouRegattaFestival,considerleavingyourdona- es areitisagoodcandidatefordonation.Ifyouhavealreadymadeplanstobe es! Ifyouhaven’tevenseenorthoughtofaparticulararticleforoveryear,chanc- of Carriacoutobeginthenextschoolyear.Startcleaningoutyourlockersandbilg- July 29thtoraisefundsforpurchasingschooluniformsandsuppliesneedychildren The CarriacouChildren’sEducationFundwillholdits11thAnnualBenefitAuctionon Eleventh AnnualBenefitAuctioninCarriacou For moreinformationvisitwww.errolflynnmarina.com. and localarrayoftopmusicians.Thisyear’sJazzonthePierissetforJune17th. the siteofOchoRiosJazzFestival’s“JazzonPier”featuringaninternational For thethirdconsecutiveyear,ErrolFlynnMarinainPortAntonio,Jamaica,willbe Jazz onthePierinJamaica in thePacific. high watersurfacetemperaturesintheAtlanticandneutral The Coloradoofficialssaidthecauseofstormyseasonwasacombination cane days(averageis5.0). days (averageis24.5),fivemajorhurricanes2.3)andtenhurri- named storms(averageis9.6),80stormdays49.1),35hurricane The reportstatesthat2011willhaveaboutninehurricanes(averageis5.9),16 than theaverage1950-2000season. states thatthe2011Atlantichurricaneseasonwillhavesignificantlymoreactivity strike probabilityfor2011”reportbytheWilliamGray-leddepartmentspecifically The “extendedrangeforecastofAtlanticseasonalhurricaneactivityandlandfall an above-averageprobabilityofamajorhurricanelandfallfortheCaribbean. well-above-average activityforthe2011Atlantichurricaneseason,andanticipates The DepartmentofAtmosphericScienceatColoradoStateUniversityisforecasting Here WeGoAgain… e-mailed toyou,[email protected]. caribbeancompass.com/guyanaguide.htm; ifyou’dlikePartsTwoandThree 2004 cruisingguidetotheEssequiboisarchivedon Kit [email protected]’scomprehensive For moreinformationvisitwww.doyleguides.com/updatesguyana.htmlandcontact Indian, butthewildlifeandgeologyaremostimpressivelySouthAmerican. is theonlyEnglish-speakingcountryinSouthAmerica,someofcultureWest hour) fromBarticatoParikaandthereabusortaxiGeorgetown.AsGuyana Falls. Formajorshoppingorsightseeing,takeasmallpassengerferry(alittleoveran ers toitsfriendlybarandrestaurant.AskatBaganaraaboutairtoursKaieteur Compass wewelcomeaboardnewadvertisersPRIfueltreatmentsof Compass websiteatwww. MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Hubert Winstonreports:Iwouldliketointroduce New YachtServicesinDominica at thePalmasdelMarYCoffice. Fajardo atSunbayMarina’sofficeorPuertodelReyoffice,inHumacao Caribbean Compass It’s goodtobeback!Wearepleasedannouncethatregulardistributionof Compass —Continuedonnextpage transport companywithwhichFloatingLife wouldratherinvolveitselfthanDYT. and forthbetweentheCaribbean Mediterranean,thereisnootheryacht 1.00 .80 1.00 .80 SEASONAL 1.15 .90 Switzerland, Italy,MonacoandShanghai,offerscomprehensivemanagement 1.25 be onemadeinheaven.FloatingLife(www.floatinglife.com),withoffices 1.00 half ago,itbecameclearthatthismatchbetweentwocorporatedynamoswould MONTHLY When FloatingLifewasintroducedtoDockwiseYachtTransport(DYT)ayearand a Dockwise YachtTransportandFloatingLife For moreinformationonVirginGordaYachtHarbourseeadpage6. WEEKLY visit www.virgingordayachtharbour.com/vgyh/Specials.aspx. DAILY For fulldetailsonSummerSpecialDockageRates 51 –79ft 0 –50ft VESSEL/SLIP LENGTH more thanoneslipduetobeamwillbecharged11/2timesthestatedrates): based ontheoveralllengthwithaminimumfootageof32feet.Vesselsrequiring to October15th,2011.Herearejustsomesamplesummerrates(perfootperday Check outVirginGordaYachtHarbour’ssummerdockagerates,effectiveMay1st Virgin GordaYachtHarbourOffersSummerSpecials For informationaboutDominicaMarineCenterseeadonpage29. visit www.dominicayachtservices.com. Contact [email protected] the beautifulNatureIsland,forbestCaribbeanhastooffer. quickly, professionallyandlocally,whatareyouwaitingfor?JoinusonDominica, Knowing thatyouhaveacomprehensiveyachtingservicetohandleallyourneeds through theDominicaMarineCenter. Services alsoincludesmechanicalengineering,dinghyandsmall-enginesales clearance, transportation,provisioning,toursandscubadiving.DominicaYacht In additiontofuel,lubricantandenginesales,thislocalcompanyhandlesyacht can capablyhandleanyyachtingserviceneeds,whetherlargeorsmall. Portsmouth. AsanaffiliateoftheDominicaMarineCenter,YachtServices vice company,withofficesonVictoriaStreetinRoseauandBay Yacht Service,theisland’snewest,mostcomprehensiveprofessionalyachtingser- Business Briefs Servant 4 on standbyatDYT’s The motoryacht inPuertoRico in Martinique OceanEmerald hasresumedinPuertoRico.Pickupyourmonthlycopy Super services foryachtsvisitingDominica Roseau. Nowthereareevenmore

Compass JONATHAN ZIER JONATHAN designed motoryachtsback foot (41-meter)NormanFoster- porting FloatingLife’sthree131- cal details.Inthecaseoftrans- nical, administrativeandlogisti- coordination ofcountlesstech- involved withthecompany’s side entitythatbecomes employees aswellanyout- competence fromitsown highest degreeofprofessional and insodoingitdemandsthe tional clienteleofyachtowners, technical servicestoaninterna- readerstoDominica MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

J. MILMAN are the basis of are the basis . completed a voyage in completed a will cost readers £3.99 per issue to Super Servant 4 Super Servant Ocean Pearl M/Y Ocean Sapphire and and Sail Racing Magazine , and operates on a regular schedule to deliver yachts on a regular schedule to , and operates Ocean Emerald Ocean Emerald Yacht Express Continued from previous page Continued from Floating Life’s unique fractional ownership program, by which 24 families — eight program, by which 24 families unique fractional ownership Floating Life’s of days a year. for a certain number owner access to the yachts per boat — have this summer. their yachts in the Med can enjoy time aboard Floating Life owners both Toward that end, — M/Y Ocean Pearl M/Y Ocean Emerald, March from Martinique to Toulon aboard DYT’s to Toulon aboard March from Martinique With this accomplished, Barbados will be the first country in the world to have total WiFi access “from bus stop to rum shop.” Achievement of this goal will have tremen- dous marketing benefits for the island, especially in tourism. Antigua Show 2011 Dates Set Dates have been announced for the 50th anniversary Antigua Charter Yacht Show: December 4th through 10th, 2011. For more information visit www.antigua-charter-yacht-meeting.com. Dockwise owns a total of four yacht carriers, including the 686-foot (209-meter) including the 686-foot a total of four yacht carriers, Dockwise owns super ship use their like giant moving marinas, The ships, looking something around the world. allow yachts of any size to be safely floated on and off unique loading method to themselves by pumping nine million gallons of as cargo. The carriers submerge the vessels are floated into place one-by-one, then water into their ballast tanks; pumps dry to prepare for boat transport. Once the sea-fastened before the ship dis- the process is reversed so the yachts can safely ship reaches its final destination, and/or crews aboard to take them by their own embark with captains, owners DYT also orchestrates lift-on/lift-off arrangements with power to new adventures. wanting a more flexible shipping schedule or to explore third-party carriers for clients ships are not scheduled to go. destinations where the float-on/float-off routes include St. Thomas and Martinique. DYT’s global yacht transport on page 15. For more information see ad Marina, St. Maarten Low Season Specials at Lagoon till Maarten is offering low season specials from July 1st Lagoon Marina, Cole Bay St. rate for monthly dockage is US$8.00 per foot. Hurricane November 1st! The summer conditions apply! rates. Look for details at www.lagoon-marina.com/marina Gateway to the Grenadines is BridgeHouse, a hotel located in Kingstown, St. Vincent, Shafia London reports: The and from Bequia and the ideally situated to accommodate persons traveling to architecture and mod- other Grenadine islands. Characterized by colonial Spanish hotel that offers a fusion ern interior decor, The BridgeHouse is an inviting boutique of St. Vincent & the of elegance, affordable accommodation and the warmth en suite baths, free high- Grenadines. All rooms are fitted with air-conditioning, staff at the BridgeHouse is speed wireless internet access and cable television. The help plan and organize trips ready to assist with airport pick-up and drop-offs and to the Grenadines wharf, we are and meetings. Ten minutes away from the airport and stopover. bright and cozy for that relaxing getaway or pre-Grenadines For more information visit www.bridgehousesvg.com. New Digital-Only Sail Racing Mag worldwide sail racing com- A new monthly digital-only publication targeted at the munity has been launched. download or view online. Visit www.sailracingmagazine.com. Caribbean Cruise Board Game App version of the Clive Ramsden reports: I recently published an abbreviated for the iPhone and iPad. WorldWide Cruise Line Caribbean Cruise board game in the game, visiting There are a total of 400 Island Cards and Ship Cards involved history and culture of the 160 different island destinations. Players will learn of the and desperate poverty, Caribbean, of pirates and explorers, of unbelievable riches and of grand development and ecological preservation. See the app at http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/wwcl-caribbean-cruise/ id410802639?mt=8. For more information visit http://worldwidecruiselineink.wordpress.com. New Chart Apps from Imray Marine Imray Charts: North Willie Wilson reports: The first of the Imray charts apps, the iTunes store. This will run Sea and Marine Imray Charts: English Channel is now in of Imray’s charts with an on both iPhone and iPad. The app combines the quality routes, seeing tides, sav- easy to use but comprehensive set of functions for planning are included. ing waypoints, capturing tracks and more. Aerial photographs next month. There is a free Caribbean and Mediterranean coverage are due by trial app called Marine Imray Charts: Introduction. See a short video of the app at www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoohiqKzn7o. Barbados to Become 100% WiFi accessible by November November 11th is the Accomplishing island-wide WiFi access in Barbados by in its quest to make Barbados Entrepreneurship Foundation’s first major milestone world by 2020”. “Barbados the Number One entrepreneurial hub in the One pioneer in offering free WiFi is Italia Coffee House. General Manager Cecil Yearwood said that the provision of free WiFi “improves the customer experience and gives us a different demographic of customer that we would not normally see, and improves customer stay and ‘spend’ in the shops.” MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 souvenirs ishurtingtheterritory’smarineenviron- Source Rico Tourists and otherplasticcontainers. liquor bottles,softdrinkandbeercans,plasticbags bakery. Mostoftheextractedelementswerebeerand Venezuela, EPAhardwarestoreandCityMansion activities andthesponsorsofthisevent:PepsiCola Association oftheAnzoáteguiStateunderwater Coast Guard,Inparques,SPAO,BayDivers, ple stillthrowinthesea.ThanksgotoGuanta of takingthegarbagethatunfortunatelymanypeo- Park. Diversand“snorkelistas”weregiventhetask Chimana SegundainVenezuela’sMochimaNational were takenfromElFarobeachontheislandof Mochima NationalPark a tourist“mustdo”whileonvacation. as divinginmarineparksisontherisegloballyand designation willalsohelpboosttourismtotheisland decree onMaritimeManagement.Themarinepark Areas ofWildlife(SPAW)Protocolandthefederal enforced inaccordancewiththeSpeciallyProtected Maarten tohaveanofficialprotectedareathatis which isconsideredanarchaeologicaltreasure. non ballsandpotteryarestillpresentatthesite, artifacts suchasanchors,cannons,barrelhoops,can- frigate thatstruckManofWarShoalin1801,and The reefwasnamedafterthe CITES AppendixIspeciesand89IIspecies. breeding siteforthreeIUCNRedListSpecies,ten fish. Thereefalsoactsasamigratorystopoverand including whales,dolphins,sharks,seaturtlesand beds aswellalargepopulationofaquaticanimals, and Telecommunications. Minister ofEconomicAffairs,Tourism,Transportation sustainable tourism,”saidHonorableFranklinMeyers, preserve thelocalenvironmentaswellenhancing ing themarinepark,St.Maartenistakingstepsto first andmostcrucialphaseoftheprocess.Bycreat- in themakingandwearepleasedtohavebegun most importantunderwaterhabitat. taken towardspreservingProselyteReef,theisland’s December 2010.ItisthefirststepSt.Maartenhas park –theManofWarShoalMarinePark—inlate Marine Park Caribbean Eco-News According totheMarch29thissueof Environmental EducationforUSVIandPuerto For [email protected]. On March26th,700kilosofunderwatergarbage 700 KilosofTrashCollectedinVenezuela’s The newManofWarShoalMarineParkallowsSt. Proselyte Reefincludescoralreefsandseagrass “The developmentofthemarineparkhasbeenlong St. Maartenestablisheditsfirstnationalmarine St. MaartenEstablishesitsFirstNational , tourists’habitofcollectingcoralandshellsfor HMS Proselyte St. Thomas , a32-gun rubbish inthesea ignorant peoplethrow required aslong la Tortugawillbe organized byFundación efforts likethisone It’s nopicnic.Clean-up with AcademyAward-winningactorBenicioDelToro to thebeach. attempt tostoppotentialviolatorsbeforetheyevenget put upatairportsandcruiseshipterminalsinan the USCaribbean,whileeducationalposterswillbe radio stationsandinhotelsdiveshopsthroughout seagrass beds,arealsoincludedintheetiquettetips. of anchoringonasandybottominsteadincoralor reefs withtheirfins,andtellingboaterstheimportance touching. Makingsuresnorkelersdon’tsteponcoral to “leaveparadisewhereitis”byjustlookingandnot and correspondingPSAaremeanttoencouragevisitors marine habitatsforfishandcoralspecies.Thevideo Puerto Rico.Takingthemcontributestotheerosionof confiscated atairportsintheUSVirginIslandsand year almost260poundsofthesenaturalresourcesare corals andshellsfromthebeachesreefs,butevery pilfering fromtheterritory’sbeaches. the localairwavesinhopesofdeterringvisitorsfrom public serviceannouncementthatwillbeplayedon together aseven-minuteetiquettevideoand30-second the trend.NOAAandForSeaProductionshaveput Administration (NOAA)andarehopingtohelpreverse scientists fromtheNationalOceanicandAtmospheric ments, buttheUniversityofVirginIslandsand The videoisavailableinbothEnglishandSpanish, The videoandPSAwillbeairedontelevision Local lawsprohibitanyonefromtakinglivingordead or SusGren(784485-8779). com), ValerieFrancella([email protected]) cysurf.com), KimBaldwin(baldwin.kimberly@gmail. information contactMartinBarriteau(susgrenpm@vin- known beforetheendofMay. and Communitymeetingsisasfollows: local prioritiesformarinespaceandresources. the projectcomponents,andinitialdiscussionson Meetings willinvolveintroductionsanddiscussionsof Hillsborough, CarriacouattheendofJanuary. visioning workshopthatkickedofftheprojectin The meetingsareafollow-uptotheregionalstakeholder- June 2011oneveryinhabitedislandoftheGrenadines. Programme (GEFSGP). the GlobalEnvironmentFacilitySmallGrants Oceanic andAtmosphericAdministration(NOAA) 2010 toMarch2012andisfundedbyNational opment inthearea.TheprojectspansfromOctober and managementgoalstopromotesustainabledevel- plan thatwouldincorporateabroadrangeofinterests ect todevelopadraftregionalmarinemulti-usezoning the GrenadineIslands.Themeetingsarepartofaproj- management ofthemarineandcoastalresources community meetingsaboutplanningforlong-term other communitymemberstotakepartinaseriesof operators, watertaxiferries,etcetera)and users (fishers,cruisers,diveshopoperators,daytour Sustainable GrenadinesInc.invitesmarineresource areas surroundingtheGrenadineIslands?The the Grenadines! in theSpanish-languageversion. show QueNoche,isthevoiceofspottedeagleray Grisel Mamery,hostofthePuertoRicantelevision voicing themaincharacterofasmoothtrunkfish. If youwouldliketoattendand/orrequireadditional The venuesforthecommunitymeetingswillbe June 20th&21st–Mustique June 18th&19th–Bequia June 15th&16th–Canouan June 14th–Mayreau June 12th&13th–UnionIsland June 11th–PetiteMartinique June 9th&10th–Carriacou The tentativescheduleforMarineResourceUsers Community meetingsarescheduledtotakeplacein Are youconcernedaboutthefutureofmarine Help PlantheFutureofMarineResourcesin

MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 Bonne Mag 7 Cayennita bested The crew of Spinnaker Racing B winner, from St. Thomas beat out St. beat out St. Soca , tied for second place led over fellow islander, pulled ahead to win the pulled ahead to win the , and St. Maarten’s Frits . A newcomer, Puerto Rico’s . A newcomer, Orion Soca . , topped the Jib & Main Class, , topped the Jib & Main Class, Coors Light for a class second by one point for a class second by one point Cayennita Grande continued his lead in the Spinnaker continued his didn’t start the last race, and when didn’t start the last race, and when Fuakata Toda Via Bonne Chance Cayennita Grande Coors Light giving both boats three points each. giving both boats three points Coors Light Smile and Wave The circuit concluded and ties were broken at the BVI The circuit concluded and This is where Puerto Rico’s “It was a great circuit,” says Sanpere. Each of the 2011 Cape Air C.O.R.C. class winners St. Thomas’ International Rolex Regatta, held March St. Thomas’ International continued over the Indeed, perfect racing conditions Spring Regatta, held out of Nanny Cay Marina, in Tortola, Spring Regatta, held out of Nanny Cay Marina, in Tortola, during the first weekend of April. Chance Maarten’s when St. Croix’s Performance Cruising Class by one point over Puerto Rico’s Bonne Chance. to received a complimentary round-trip ticket for one The anywhere in the Caribbean that Cape Air flies. regional airline, based in the US, flies between Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, St. Croix, Tortola, Vieques and Anguilla. 25th through 27th, was back this year after a couple of 25th through 27th, was back in the circuit. “Where else in years’ hiatus as the third leg of events with our weather the world will you find a series period of time?” says regatta and breeze in such a short director, Bill Canfield. courses that char- round-the-buoy and round-the-island As for the Cape Air C.O.R.C. acterize the Rolex Regatta. that set up ties in two standings, this was the regatta A where Puerto Rico’s Luis classes. One was Spinnaker Juarbe’s Henderson 30, Bus on his Melges 24, in Spinnaker A with five points apiece. In Performance in Spinnaker A with five points Cruising, Sanpere’s Carlos Sierra, on DEAN BARNES (2) , J/36, Antonio Sanpere, St. Croix, USVI (4) , Beneteau First 40, Jaime Torres, Puerto Rico (4) , Jorge Santiago, Puerto Rico (5) , Beneteau First 35, Bernardo Gonzalez, Puerto Rico (5) , Beneteau First 35, Bernardo Gonzalez, Puerto Rico (5) continued its reign in Spinnaker B, while Sanpere’s reign in Spinnaker B, while continued its , Melges 24, Frits Bus, St. Maarten (8) , Beneteau First 38S5, Dwight Rodriguez, Puerto Rico (3) , Carlos Sierra, Puerto Rico (6) 2011 Cape Air C.O.R.C. Winners , J/27, Paul Davis, St. Thomas, USVI (4) Mag 7 , Henderson 30, Luis Juarbe, Puerto Rico (7) had to settle for second again in Performance Cruising, behind Puerto Rico’s Cruising, behind Puerto second again in Performance had to settle for Smile and Wave Soca Coors Light Mag 7 Cayennita Grande Bonne Chance Toda Via Team Maximus Fuakata “We got the boat last year and have been training about five days a month since training about five days last year and have been “We got the boat Davis’s Sunny skies and blustery winds topping 20-plus knots set the scene for the Puerto 20-plus knots set the scene blustery winds topping Sunny skies and Spinnaker Racing A 1) 2) 2) Spinnaker Racing B 1) Performance Cruiser 1) 2) Jib & Main 1) IC24 1) 2) Racing A class. of Vela Uno, Torres, who is the co-owner for regatta season,” says then, getting ready operation. “It and paddle-boarding windsurfing, kite-boarding San Juan’s largest paying off.” looks like it’s Rico regatta. In the end, Torres’ Rico regatta. In Grande Beneteau First 35, Bernardo Gonzalez’ First 38S5, Dwight Rodriguez’s Beneteau Rico’s Fraito Lugo’s while in the IC24 Class, Puerto

, led , firmly , topped the Mag 7 Smile and Wave Cayennita Grande Davis. “We finished third in class in the Mag 7’s by Carol Bareuther Smile & Wave

The next leg of the circuit — the Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta — The next leg of the circuit — the Puerto Rico Heineken The circuit kicked off in February with the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta, The circuit kicked off in February with the St. Croix “It was a great regatta,” says This year, and thanks to the sponsorship of Cape Air, Ayala turned the traditional This year, and thanks to the sponsorship of Cape Air, There’s nearly a regatta every weekend in the Caribbean come spring. Many sailors There’s nearly a regatta every weekend in the Caribbean took place in mid-March at Palmas del Mar. There was a second sign-up for the Cape took place in mid-March at Palmas del Mar. There was Air C.O.R.C. and four more boats, including two IC24s to make a class, entered. Circuit rules called for boats to race in at least three of the four regattas — one in the US Virgin Islands, one in Puerto Rico and one in the BVI — to be eligible for raffle drawings and prizes. Spinnaker Racing A, St. Thomas’s Paul Davis driving his J/27, Spinnaker Racing A, St. Thomas’s Paul Davis driving regatta, first in our C.O.R.C. class, and I even won the raffle for a Cape Air ticket.” regatta, first in our C.O.R.C. class, and I even won the where five boats (out of a fleet of 17 for the regatta) registered in the initial C.O.R.C. where five boats (out of a fleet of 17 for the regatta) registered breeze and sunny skies, three sign-up. Sailing under near-perfect 16 to 18 knots of followed them right through of these boats saw success early and it was a trend that First 40, to the end. Puerto Rico’s Jaime Torres on his Beneteau Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle into a four-event series. The new Cape Air Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle into a four-event included two US Virgin Caribbean Ocean Racing Circuit, or C.O.R.C. for short, Virgin Islands. Nine boats Islands’ regattas, one in Puerto Rico and one in the British in two classes weren’t bro- met the challenge, three sailed the whole circuit and ties ken until the last race. Spinnaker B class and St. Croix’s Tony Sanpere’s J/36, placed on the scoreboard second in Performance Cruising. Spinnaker A Class winner of the new four-regatta circuit, Puerto Rico’s Jaime Torres’ Spinnaker A Class winner of the new four-regatta circuit, Beneteau First 40, organizers, such as Puerto like to leapfrog from island to island to compete. Regatta competitive spirits: a regatta Rico’s Angel Ayala, have come up with a fix for these series that offers even more ways to win. C.O.R.C. CHALLENGE C.O.R.C. NEW CAPE AIR CAPE NEW NINE BOATS TAKE ON TAKE BOATS NINE MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Below: OverallWinne Above: ‘Thecompetitorscouldnotcomplainaboutlackofwind…’ Veuve CliquotCup r , RichardSzyjanof Category 5 , earnedtheNorthSouthWines SOUTH GRENADAREGATTA2011 Sushi, CoconutBeachRestaurant,SeafarisandTheMoorings. Grenada Marine,UnderwaterSolutions,Glenelg,ArtFabrik,DiveGrenada,DionHealingHandsMassage,Carib Chiropractor, IslandDreamsYachtServices,C&JCarHire,TheCanvasShop,PetiteAnseHotel,ModOne, included TurbulenceSails,McIntyreBrothers,SpiceIslandMarineServices,PalmTreeMarine,GaryAdams World, Act-Art&Design,Carib,TheWiremansHouse/ACDCandtheGrenadaBoardofTourism.Othersponsors Insurance, RealValueIGASupermarketandLePhareBleu;SilverSponsorsBudgetMarine,IslandWater year butnotinthemainstructureofregatta.” after thethirdeditionwethinkhavefiguredoutconceptforthissortofevent.Therewillbechangesnext ferent skillsinthewaterandonbeachwerenecessary.Theafter-racepartiesrocked. was thefavoriteforgrown-upboys.TheotherchildrenenjoyedthemselveswithPirates’Trail,wherealldif- from adifferentperspective.OthershadtrialsailwithHobieCat.Sunday’s“15-horsepowerdinghyrace” Speedboat rideswithSeafarisgavemanyGrenadianstheopportunitytoseesouthcoastforfirsttime Class: BrentMcQueenfirst,NoahBullensecondandReesEvansthird. first place,KwasiPaul,secondMozartSt.JohnandthirdplaceRondellFerguson;intheOptimist the GrenadaYachtClub.TheresultsofJuniorSailingRacesonSaturdaywere,inMosquitoClass: their roundsinthePetitCalivignyBay,organizedbySouthGrenadaRegattacommitteeco-operationwith were quitedemandingwithsomeboatsarrivingatthestartlinetooearlywhichmeantarestartforthem.” about lackofwindforthetwodaysandcourseswerechallengingallboatssailinginrollingseas.Thestarts in CruisingClass2andPaulDaleon were thesameasinfirstrace:RichardSzyjanon For fullresults,videosandmoreinformationvisitwww.southgrenadaregatta.com. The fourtheditionoftheSouthGrenadaRegattawilltakeplaceFebruary24ththrough26th,2012. The SGRcommitteewouldliketothankGoldSponsorsWesterhallRum,NorthSouthTrading,Netherlands Committee memberJanaCanigapointsout:“TheSouthGrenadaRegattaisasmallandfriendlyregatta.And Throughout bothdays,alotofactivitiesweregoingonshoreandthewaterfornon-racers. While thebigboatswerefightinghighwavesandstrongwindsalongsouthcoast,juniorsailorsturned Race OfficerJamesBenoitcomments:“Theregattawasenjoyedbyall.Thecompetitorscouldnotcomplain Alexa was even rougher than it had been the day before. In the end, the winners was evenrougherthanithadbeenthedaybefore.Inend,winners Class 2,whichwaswonbyScottWatsononthe52-foot the FunClassDufour41 5 Glover Islandandback.ThewinnerintheCruisingClass1was Class 1.BothCruising1boatsareGrenada-based. Category 5 ker) orintheFunClass,withonlytwo—RichardSjyjan’sHobie33, This yearmostoftheboatsracedeitherinCruisingClass2(non-spinna- attract racingboatsaswellkeensailorswithlessexperience. the guysinmarkerboatandphotographerpressboat!” rain thewholeday.Probablyguyswhogotworstofwere a greatatmosphereevenontheSaturdaywhenitwaspouringdownwith tacular sailing.ThemanagementofLePhareBleusucceededincreating the sailingcrewsshowedgreatseamanshipandactuallyenjoyedspec- 27th. CommitteememberDamonDuBoisconcludes,“Againstallodds, 35-knot windsandexceptionallyroughseasfromFebruary25ththrough Phare BleuMarinaontheisland’ssouthcoast. spirits atthe2011editionofSouthGrenadaRegatta,basedLe HIGH SPIRITS HIGH SEAS, HIGH WINDS, , inCruisingClass2,MikeBingley’sBeneteau38, The Sunday races took place under the shining Caribbean sun, but the sea The SundayracestookplaceundertheshiningCaribbeansun,butsea The secondracehadthesamewinnersasfirst,exceptinCruising The firstraceontheSaturdaywentfromLePhareBleuMarinaaround The goaloftheorganizersSouthGrenadaRegattaisalwaysto Nineteen entries,slightlyfewerthanlastyear,encountered15-to Weather describedbytheorganizersas“challenging”didn’tdampen inFunClass.Theregatta’soverallwinnerwas , and Category 5 Rene Froehlich inCruisingClass1,MikeBingleyon Alexa ’s Dione , withskipperPaulDale. —bravingspinnakersinCruising Category 5 TulaicheanII Boxxer . Tulaichean II . Category , andin

MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

Sumtin’s Salt Fish Die Hard edged into took first in the took first in the Die Hard second, while second, while fifth. That left fifth. That left Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware had 12 points, and had 12 points, shared the lead at ten points, shared the lead Die Hard Sumtin’s Happ’nin Sumtin’s Happ’nin Fadeaway Die Hard Sumtin’s Happ’nin . Then and nine seconds behind and nine seconds was declared both the Overall Winner of the Bequia was declared both the Overall , Melges 24, Regis Guillemot, France (4) took first and took first and Fadeaway . , IW Varvet 31, Tom Batty, UK , Surprise, Nicolas Gillet, France Fadeaway e-mail: [email protected] 14 points each. In the last race’s surprise finish, St. Lucia’s In the last race’s surprise 14 points each. Sumtin’s Happ’nin , Paul Johnson, Barbados (16) , Charlie Gloumeau, Barbados (16) (12 entries) , Jeanneau 3200, Aymric Pinto, France (9) . So, with one race to go, . So, with one (CSA non-spinnaker, 6 entries) Madonna , Nicolas Gillet, France (3) , Nicolas Poix, France (11) (one-design, 7 entries) , Hughes 38, Jerry Stewart, Grenada (5) by just one second for third, leaving by just one second (CSA spinnaker, 5 entries) , Hobie 33, Romain Szyjan, Grenada (6) Claudio Vogul Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear , IW Varvet 31, Tom Batty, UK (11) , Hallberg Rassy 39, Jack Burns, USA (9) Sumtin’s Happ’nin GFA Caraibes (one-design, 9 entries) , Robbie Yearwood, Grenada (19) , Swan 40, Henry Crallan, UK (9) , San Juan 34, Lloyd DeRoche, Trinidad & Tobago (4) , Dubois 33, Robin Smith, SVG (3) , Vianney Saintenoy, France (6) Salt Fish and Fadeaway tied with 16 points each. After application of the CSA tie- After application of the CSA tied with 16 points each. and Fadeaway Xpelair Fadeaway to Team Regis Guillemot Saboto Caesar, presents first prize in Racing Class SVG’s Minister of Tourism, Fadeaway Sumtin’s Happ’nin Sumtin’s Happ’nin Regis Guillemot Charters Category 5 Vandanvwell 2 Nirvana Bloody Mary Tabasco No Fear Dionysus Madonna GFA Caraibes Digilife Clippers Ship Sumtin’s Happ’nin Xpelair Fadeaway Die Hard Going into the last day, Going into the Thanks go out to Race Officer James Benoit from Grenada, the Bequia Sailing Club James Benoit from Grenada, the Bequia Sailing Club Thanks go out to Race Officer visit www.begos.com/easterregatta. For full results and a slideshow Club for information used in this report. Thanks to the Bequia Sailing local double-ender division of Bequia Easter Regatta 2011. Next month: A full report on the Racing Class 1) 2) 3) Cruising Class I 1) 2) 3) Cruising Class II 1) 2) 3) Surprise Class 1) 2) 3) J/24 Class 1) 2) 3) Single-Handed Round the Island CSA rated: BEQUIA HEINEKEN EASTER REGATTA 2011 WINNERS Non-CSA rated: fourth by Monday’s first race, with Monday’s first three-race series on the Saturday, with the United Insurance Trophy for that series the United Insurance Trophy on the Saturday, with three-race series going to three points ahead of three points ahead and youth team in youth team in beat Happ’nin break rules, J/24 Southern Caribbean Champion 2011. Regatta J/24 Class and the BSC volunteers, premier sponsors Heineken race committee, all the hard-working Gay the SVG Tourism Authority, main sponsors Mount (St. Vincent Brewery) and United Insurance, Mountain Top Water, Tradewinds Rum (Bryden’s, St. Vincent), Hotel, Bequia Beach Hotel, De Reef, Windward Island Cruise Club, the Frangipani this and the many more generous supporters who make Plantation and CK Greaves, success. little island’s regatta a big

ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER Fax: (758) 452 0311 from Barbados FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils

Sumtin's Happ'nin Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

from SVG from Trinidad No Fear

Nirvana

Easter’s Late, but Late, Easter’s

BEQUIA HEINEKEN EASTER REGATTA 2011 HEINEKEN EASTER BEQUIA

The J/24 Southern Caribbean Champion 2011, BEQUIA’S GREAT! BEQUIA’S While racing in all classes was intense, with the leaders in both Racing Class and With 39 yachts in three handicap classes and two one-design classes, and 28 of theWith 39 yachts in three handicap classes and two one-design A “moveable feast”, Easter is the first Sunday after the full moon following the is the first Sunday after the full moon following the A “moveable feast”, Easter The boats and the breeze turned up for the Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta 2011, up for the Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta 2011, The boats and the breeze turned

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

Cruising I going into the last day neck-and-neck, the J/24s competed not only for Easter Regatta prizes, but also for the title of J/24 Southern Caribbean Champion 2011. Another new regatta sponsor, United Insurance, lent their name to the J/24s’ famous local open sloops in seven classes, all racing in the same waters, Bequia Regattafamous local open sloops in seven classes, all racing in the Barbados, Grenada, St. Lucia,2011 was a vibrant spectacle. Sailors from Antigua, competitors from BequiaTrinidad, the UK, the USA and the US Virgin Islands joined (“France” on the scoreboard)and St. Vincent, plus a strong contingent from Martinique 2000. All classes completedthat has swelled the Racing and Surprise classes since Three race days of tried-and- three races, except for the J/24s, which knocked off six. on the Friday, around thetrue courses — Admiralty Bay to Friendship Bay and back island on the Saturday, and a tactical harbor triangle on Easter Monday — plus wind- ward-leeward and Olympics for the J/24s, exercised the fleet on every point of sail. neighboring Grenada had races at Easter. He got a laugh by “thanking the neighboring Grenada had races at Easter. He got Revolutionary Government’s Communists” on that island for the 1979-to-1983 People’s desirable time slot in 1982. neglect of sailing, which allowed Bequia to usurp this Top: All from Martinique, the Surprise Class is a Bequia favorite Top: All from Martinique, the Surprise Class is a Bequia Below left: Cruising I winner, northern hemisphere’s ecclesiastical vernal equinox, March 21st, so its date varies northern hemisphere’s ecclesiastical vernal equinox, April 24th this year, but pre- between March 22nd and April 25th. Easter fell on to coincidence with the Round event anxiety about Bequia’s turnout suffering owing Sailing Week (April 24th Guadeloupe Race (April 21st through 25th) and Antigua late again until 2095, some- through 29th) was unfounded. (Easter will not be this Moreover, new title spon- thing the current organizers will not have to worry about!) calendar feature. At the sor Heineken added a touch of “fresh green” to this spring noted that decades ago prizegiving, Bequia Sailing Club founder Sir James Mitchell Right: held April 22nd through 25th, making the event’s 30th anniversary an Alleluia 25th, making the event’s 30th anniversary an Alleluia held April 22nd through despite earlier fears that an extraordinarily late Easter Chorus of glorious sailing, and heavy rain might make it flat. and a preceding spell of calms Below right: Cruising II winner, MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 sented byNautor’sSwanBoardMembersBerndt comfortable activity. Island, JostVanDykeandMarinaCayinsixdaysof Yacht ClubandtookinVirginGorda,Norman stop-overs. ing organization,takingthefleettoarangeofisland enjoying localislandhospitalitymixedwithSwancruis- locations. TheCaribbeanvenuesuitsthoseintenton ing insomeoftheworld’smostsought-aftersailing nized byNautor’sSwanwiththeoptionoflow-keyrac- to offerstructuredcruisingandsocialoccasionsorga- a hundredparticipants. 26 Swanyachtsattendedwithmorethan March 14ththrough19th.Forthe2011cruisingevent Rendezvous heldintheBritishVirginIslandsfrom eighth editionoftheirClubSwanCaribbean in theBVI The ClubSwanCaribbeanRendezvous2011fleet REGATTA NEWS The highlycoveted‘SpiritofSwanAward’waspre- This yearthecruisingroutestartedatBitterEnd The ClubSwanRendezvousprogrammeisdesigned Nautor’s Swansawarecordentrythisyearforthe Record EntryforClubSwanCaribbeanRendezvous Hanuman warm theheartsofanyyachtenthusiast. — cameintogetherunderthreeminutes,asightto Gazelle across thefinishline— rest ofthepacknotfarbehind.Thefirstthreeyachts finished inthespaceofjustover20minutes,with ing, inaspectaculardownwindfinish,some24yachts ings wasatrickybusiness.Yetonthefinaldayofrac- a widerangeofyachtsinbetween,establishingrat- ful Js,aslewofPeriniNavis,RoyalHuismans,Alloysand and class, LesElegantesdesMers.Withracerssuchas Grande DamestoGazellesandthenewestBucket ratings dataforseveralyears. applied theirlessonslearnedfromgatheringBucket proving againthatJimTeeterandhisteamhave rate startsandincreasinglyclosefinisheseveryday, ing providedexcitingcourses,withstunninglyaccu- 24th through27th. large-yacht racingattheSt.Barths’Bucket,March contact [email protected]. Glisse Best BoatwasgiventoTwanetteTharp’sSwan62 philosophy offunwithcompetitivespirit.Theawardfor including childrenamongitscrewwithawonderful Swan 66 Brunow andSirAnthonyGreenertothecrewof ipants, buthadneverbeforewontheelusivetopprizes. The threeOverallSt.BarthsBucketwinners, The 40-boatfleetrangedfrom30to88metres, Smiled uponbytheWindGods,allthreedaysofrac- A fleetof40yachtscelebrated25yearsgreat 25th StBarth’sBucket For moreinformation Leopard followinganintensivejudgingsession. Virago Godot , and onthewater,joiningacoupleofbeauti- , and fromNorway,whichsailedtheweek Symmetry Elena Helios , werepreviousBucketpartic- , representingLesElegantes astheGrandeDame, Virago, Virago, P2

YACHT SHOTS YACHT Memorial Awardwenttotheownersof successfully aggressivemaneuvers.TheWalterHuisman Axia familyearningtheSkulduggeryCravatforsome has organizedsevensuccessfulcircumnavigations. navigation rally,Europa92.Sincethen,thecompany Bavaria, LagoonandJeanneau. duction cruisersfromhigh-volumebuilderssuchas such asHallbergRassy,Oyster,OVNIandAmeltopro- cruising designs,fromprovenblue-watermarques with children. retirement. Thereareusuallyfamilyboatssailing cal beforereturningtowork,whileothersareenjoying from manybackgrounds:somearetakingasabbati- drawn frommanynationalities.Participantsare people tojointherally. cumnavigation. Anannualeventalsoenablesmore rejoining thesubsequentrallytocompletetheircir- then takeayearouttoexploreontheirown,before This willmakeiteasierforcruiserstosailhalftherally, to thedecisionmakeWorldARCanannualevent. World ARC2012. year, withmorethan30boatsreadytotakepartin mind. InterestinWorldARChasincreasedthelast low cruisers,andastructurethatprovidespeaceof and atsea,thecamaraderieofaclosegroupfel- January 2012. event startedinJanuary2010andthenextwillstart January andfinishing15monthslater.Thecurrent from RodneyBayinSt.Lucia. will becomeanannualeventstartingeveryJanuary from 2014theWorldARCround-the-worldsailingrally or visitwww.brisaweb.net. (305) [email protected], Are” (Cruisers’Class)andthenativefolkboats. Spinnaker Racing,Jib&Main“RaceAsYou 14th. Allarewelcome.Therewillbeclassesfor regatta atIsletaMarina,Fajardo,PuertoRicoonMay results.html. who makethisallpossible. to themanyvolunteers,sponsorsandparticipants but surelynottheirlast—BucketRegatta.Thankstoo by PeterCraig,didanoutstandingjobintheirfirst— new BucketRacemanagementteam,spearheaded Hank Halsted,TimLaughridgeandIanCraddock.The round toorganizearegattaofthismagnitude,ledby capping offeachday’sracinginspectacularstyle. WWII erafighterplanesbuzzedthefleetandisland, generously arrangedforthedailyairshowsasfour Other prizeswenttoAll-StarCrew World CruisingCluborganizedthefirst-evercircum- The boatsthemselvesareacross-sectionofpopular World ARCisamulticulturalevent,withparticipants Demand fromsailorsforarallyinthe“off”yearsled Joining WorldARCprovidespracticalsupportinport World ARCiscurrentlyabiennialevent,startingin World CruisingClubisdelightedtoannouncethat World ARCCircumnavigationRallyGoesAnnual For moreinformationcontactReyGandarillasat The BrisaAssociationishostingacharityfundraising Fun FundraiserforFajardo For fullresultsvisitwww.bucketregattas.com/stbarths/ Congratulations gotothosewhoworkhardyear- —Continued onnextpage Rebecca, Marie and to andto , who , who MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 : ‘to win Best Boat at three 1 888 SHIP DYT • : Tel. +596 596 741 507 +596 596 741 507 : Tel. Team INTAC E-mail: [email protected] DYT Martinique • 1st Place Budget Marine Match Racing Cup (14 Marine Match Racing • 1st Place Budget Spinnaker Racing 2, Gill • 1st Place CSA Spinnaker Racing 2, St. Maarten • 1st Place CSA Boat of the Regatta, St. Maarten • Best Overall Race, Performance Round the Island • Best Overall 2, Rolex • 1st Place CSA Spinnaker Racing the Regatta, Rolex • Best Overall CSA Boat of Championships (14 • 1st Place Gill BVI Match Racing 2, BVI Spring • 1st Place CSA Spinnaker Racing • Best Overall Boat of the Regatta, and profession- “Due to the hard work, dedication, Toulon Toulon Palma de Mallorca Everglades Newport 11/2011 Everglades Port 06/2011 Everglades Port 06/2011 Everglades Port 11/2011 Port 12/2011 05/2011 12/2011 achieve these results for the Virgin Islands. I thank my entire crew, our sponsors, and all those who make these Caribbean regattas such a fantastic experi- ence. The Caribbean regattas are among the very best run and most fun Regattas in the World!” said Skipper and Owner Mark Plaxton. firsts in 14 races) Cup (three firsts in three races) Commodores in four Regatta (four firsts Heineken International races) Regatta Heineken International Regatta St. Maarten Heineken International firsts and three seconds in International Regatta (three six races) International Regatta firsts in 14 races) third in eight races) Regatta (seven firsts and one BVI Spring Regatta racing team we are alism of the entire INTAC/Crowley fortunate enough to very pleased to have been of the Caribbean’s premier regattas is unheard of’ The Melges 32 Through December 2011 Through VOYAGES FROM THE CARIBBEAN FROM VOYAGES Nadine Massaly DYT Representative Le Marin, Martinique WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Martinique Martinique TO THE EAST COAST USA St. Thomas Martinique St. Thomas Martinique Martinique did it again at team, said, “We worked very INTAC/Crowley GlobalInvestments and Crowley won five GlobalInvestments and Crowley INTAC INTAC/Crowley Team INTAC Results in the Caribbean Racing J/24 World Champion Anthony Kotoun, main trimmer Virgin Islands’ Team Event organizers Francois Tolede, Luc Poupon and Francois Tolede, Luc Poupon Event organizers visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com. For full results Team INTAC/Crowley Dominate Northern Island Regattas Team hard together as a team for the last several months and it has paid off handsomely for us and our sponsor”. Season 2011: pany could not be happier with the results, the team delivered beyond our expectations. All I can say is a big congratulation to Mr. Plaxton and his entire crew,” stated INTAC’s President Tim Vermeulen. on the the 40th Annual BVI Spring Regatta with a convincing the 40th Annual BVI Spring Racing 2, and also victory in their class, CSA Spinnaker Boat of the Regatta, won the trophy for Best Overall at the Heineken matching their results achieved International Rolex International Regatta and the “It is very hard to win one Regatta in the weeks prior. at three of the regatta, but to win Best Boat is unheard of. Our com- Caribbean’s premier regattas of the major Caribbean regattas in 2011 and achievedof the major Caribbean regattas of 49 races competed. an average result of 1.1 out Les Voiles de St. Barth officials, who presented each of St. Barth officials, who presented Les Voiles de a bottle of Taittinger champagne the crews with ritual that in a final French touch on a —thus putting the world involves cold beer. other parts of with the were understandably pleased Annelisa Gee his organizing of the event. Tolede and second edition 2012 Les already busy planning the committee are April 2nd through 7th. Voiles de St. Barth, Photo by Onne van der Wal Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Continued from previous page Continued from Second Les Voiles de St. Barth St. Barthélemy from April The Weather Gods blessed The first World ARC was held in 2008-09, and the cur- ARC was held in 2008-09, and The first World most of a route that makes the World ARC follows has helped more Since 1992, World Cruising Club For more information visit From racers to classics, 48 yachts met in St. Barth’s for the second Les Voiles event tradewind breezes that ranged from 17 to 32 knots, a fairly gentle Atlantic swell, and blue skies. After four days of intense racing, the second edition of Les Voiles de St. Barth seems to have etched out a place in the growing list of “must do” Caribbean events. As yachts ranging from Maxis to Classics crossed the fin- ish line they were greeted by a tender manned with 5th through 9th, offering more than 400 competitors 5th through 9th, offering more a week of perfect from 20 nations and on 48 yachts second annual Les Voiles Caribbean sailing during the conditions were de St. Barth. Dominating the rent edition, World ARC 2010-11, recently drew to a ARC 2010-11, recently rent edition, World and after 26,000 nautical miles close in St. Lucia 15 months. while and seasonal weather systems, the tradewinds of the most to enjoy some enabling the participants From the remote cruising destinations. beautiful and a decision World Cruising Club made first World ARC, route around the Cape of to follow the classic sailing avoiding areas of political Good Hope in South Africa, instability and piracy. to realize their dream than 200 boats and 950 people world. of sailing safely around the www.worldcruising.com/WORLDARC2012/index.aspx. — MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 in SantaMarta,Cartagena,andCholonBay. Colombian coastlineandthoroughlyenjoyedourtime so muchabout.Wehadsometerrificsailsalongthe Panama CanalviatheSanBlasIslandswehadheard moment fashion,wedecidedinBonairetoheadforthe early Januaryofthisyear.Intrueliving-in-the- again toSt.LuciamakethejumpABCsin chain fromtheBVIdowntoTrinidadandbackup Canada almosttwoyearsago,exploredtheisland 57-foot Bowmancutter-riggedketch.WeleftToronto, Caption twins, ClaireandWesley)onboard I livewithmyfamily(husband,Kirk,and12-year-old

byElizabethBrouse An Embarrassment San Blas— of Molas Discovery V , a

Caledonia. IthoughtKirkwasgoingtojumpshipand near theverytraditionalsmallKunavillageof enjoyed fourdaysofisolationinthemostidyllicsetting from the1700s).Asonlysailboatinsightwe anchorage atEscosés(afailedScottishsettlement say helloperiodicallyduringthepassage. Islands (KunaYala).Largedarkdolphinscamebyto 24-hour sailtothesoutheasternendofSanBlas the nightbeforeleavingCholonBayonanuneventful engine forourdinghywasstolenintheweehoursof We arrivedatmid-morningandscoutedoutan We becameafewpoundslighterastheoutboard

—Continuedonnextpage play onthebeachandexploretogether. Kuna andSpanish),grewtoincludepaddlingover relationship, whilelargelynon-verbal(theboysspeak These boyscametovisiteachdayafterschoolandthe boats, andswimmingtogetheramidstmuchlaughter. and engagingtheboys,takingturnsineachother’s broke theicebypaddlingoutinourinflatablekayak us outfromarespectfuldistance.ClaireandWes boys inadugoutcanoe( pull aRobinsonCrusoeonme…really!

The residentsherewereveryshy,withonlyafew DESTINATIONS ulu ) daringtocomebycheck MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 , which command a good price molas The people of the San Blas divide their time between and radio. Mini loaves of bread are sold for ten cents apiece. The store has three shelves with canned meat (good ole Spam) and rice along with an assortment of cold beverages (no beer or alcohol). fishing and tending the small plots of land on which they farm subsistence-style along the riverbanks of the mainland. The wives and grandmothers make the world-famous (everything is in US dollars here) and make a valuable contribution to the family. —Continued on next page dren and women peeking through the cracks in the reed peeking through the cracks dren and women these homes we caught of life inside walls. The glimpses a wooden strung over earthen floors, were of hammocks relies chairs. This village of 900 residents table and a few have TV for electricity and a few homes on solar panels . AM We had a guarded audience as we arrived, paddling Above: We spent a few days enjoying the tranquility of Kanildup (Green Island) Above: We spent a few days enjoying the tranquility of Left: The author with mola makers in Nargana our dinghy the next morning to the main dock. David was summoned while we waited outside the store with two women and ten young children quietly giggling at my attempts to speak Spanish. As David walked us through the village some of the braver children followed at a dis- creet distance, becoming bolder with encouragement. We stopped to shoot some hoops with a few local boys at the basketball court near the school where the children are taught in Kuna and Spanish. Walking through narrow lanes, we passed through small yards just feet from the windowless walls of homes to see faces of curious chil- photographs without permission and a per-person fee permission and a per-person photographs without about coming When I inquired to visit the community. fee was not get some bread he said the to the village to to show us and that he would be happy really required morning at 11:00 around the next Continued from previous page Continued from The community of Caledonia takes up every square of Caledonia takes up every The community man who speaks a bit of English from his schooling in Panama, came out to collect the US$8 anchoring fee (a receipt was issued, good for 30 days) and brought with him a list of rules for the area which included no dump- ing of trash, no giving sweets to the children, no taking inch of the island on which it is built. The reed huts on which it is built. inch of the island (often roofs are built very close together with palm-leaf a youngwithin family compounds). David, sharing walls — MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 and mainlandPanamainthedistance Discovery finally understoodthetitleofabookwehadreadyears and rougedcheeks. adorning thecalvesandforearms,goldnoserings adult womenaretheintricatebeadworkdesigns Other featuresofthetraditionalKunaadornmentfor often uptosevenmilesawaysellyoutheirmolas. at leastoneuluwillapproachfromcommunities required. Inallbutthemostisolatedofanchorages, size ofthestitching,andnumberlayerscloth and $100apiecedependingontheintricacyofdesign, rated intothedesign.Thesefetchfrombetween$10 symbols fromtheKunareligionandhistoryincorpo- and embroideryingeometricpatternswithanimalsor women andareacombinationofhand-sewnappliqué — When westartedcruisingtheEasternCaribbean MolasarethetraditionalwayofdressforKuna Continued frompreviouspage is atradition,infamilyboating at anchorwithCaledoniabehind aae oecag name exchange to managed nearby airstripfromPanama.Narganahadaplaneor new dinghymotorweorderedtobeflownintothe Nargana/Corazon deJesusareawaitinginvainforthe more popularanchorages.Wespentafewdaysinthe twice encounteredafruit-sellinguluincoupleofthe in ourthreeandahalfweeksKunaYalaweonly one ofthelargestcommunitiesintheseislands. the twinsettlementsofCorazondeJesus/Nargana, near thecommunityofPlayonChicobeforeheadingto Harbour betweentheislandsofApaitupandOgumnaga enjoyed acoupleofquieterdaysatanchorinSnug managed toexchangenameswithafewofthekids.We to atleasthavealook! as eachmola-makerhastheirownstyleitishardnot the SanBlasthereisanembarrassmentofmolas,and enough tokeepupwiththeendlesssupply.Herein mangoes aresoplentifulyoucannoteatthemfast earlier called“AnEmbarrassmentofMangoes”as My franticprovisioninginCartagenaprovedwiseas The SanBlasiscalledKunaYalabythelocal Close to: s lift inthedugoutand an Australianboatgota Claire andherfriendon kayaks betweenboats. kids swamandpaddled watch theactionasour varying ageshungoutto big ulufilledwithkidsof get ourattentionfirst.A between molamakersto and theracewason to yachtscomingthrough seemed veryaccustomed chain. Thiscommunity a bitfurtheroninthe crowd ofulusinAchutupu nings. Wegatheredquitea on thebeachmosteve- enjoyed sunsetbonfires kids onboardandwe A coupleoftheboatshad boats inTubak(IslaPinos). met upwithafewother exploration westwardand Caledonia webeganour ourselves awayfrom or Englishname.Pulling name aswellaSpanish by itstraditionalKuna and eachislandisknown what wedoandthewayit...... THE DIFFERENCEIS ofSSCA • OfficialCruisingStation • CameraSurveillance 24HourSecurity • WholeAreaPatrolledby isourPrimaryConcern • Safety,CleanlinessandService onDock“A” DeliveredonallSlipsexcept • On-SiteFuelDockandDiesel • WideConcreteFingerPiers • 282FixedSlips • ProfessionalandCourteousStaff Tel. or attheAdministrationOfficeMarina, open 7daysaweekfrom8:00amto4:00pm accidentally calledKirkmywife( laugh asIbungledthewordforhusband( molas toconsider.Theadultsinthefamilyhadagood friendly kidsanddogsonshoreofcoursemore one ateitherendofthissmallisland.Wediscovered anchoring offCanbombia,hometotwoKunafamilies, tion ofthepicturesquetinyislandChichitupubefore shallow watersandplayingwiththehugeredstarfish. the crocbutwecertainlydidenjoysnorkellingin recently claimedthelivesofacoupledogs.Nosign shallow reefsandhuntingthecrocodilereputedtohave days enjoyingthisuninhabitedislandsurroundedby tranquility ofKanildup(GreenIsland).Wespentafew bridge) afterstockinguponfreshfruitandveggies,tothe Corazon deJesusandNargana(joinedbyapedestrian ing coupleheadingdownstreamintheirdinghy. being towedbacktoourboatsbyasympatheticcruis- (but nonerighthere,Fredericoassuredus)before overhanging treeintothecrocodile-infestedwaters watching thekids(andFrederico)jumpoffalarge heading intheoppositedirection.Thehighlightwas spiders andafour-foot-longblacksnake,thankfully God forallhisblessings.AllthewildlifeIsawwashuge be soinlovewithhisfourdaughters,andtothank to methattheCanadianswerereallyhisfavourites), have somanyinternationalfriends(helaterconfided court andgenerallyletusknowhowblessedhewasto Frederico wouldstopeverytenminutesorsotohold (looking forcrocodiles,monkeysandarmadillos). hike throughthetrailstoleadusallkindsofwildlife where wewouldbedisembarkingourshorepartyto we werekindlytowedfartherupstreamtotheplace dugout withanoutboardmotor,theenginequitand mile uptheriver,with14ofuscrowdedontoalarge tering ofEnglishandwasquitetheentertainer.Ahalf Rio Diablo.Ourlocalguide,Frederico,spokeasmat- had beentravellingwithforafewdaysontripupthe (but oddlyenough,neverourdinghymotor!). two eachdayflyinginafewtouristsandsomesupplies traveled almosttwoyearsfromCanadatogethere. tiate formolasand to beablegetbeyondbasicconversations.Icannego- back onFrenchinapinch,Ifinditveryfrustratingnot for Dummies”bookiswellthumbedthroughandIfall chief translatorbymyfamily,andwhile“Spanish Parcelas Beltrán,Bo.Sardinera,Fajardo,Puerto Rico Our nextstopwastodoaquicksnorkelandexplora- We movedonfromthebusytwincommunitiesof While intheareawejoinedgroupofcruisers Back in Colombia, I had been unwillingly nominated Back inColombia,Ihadbeenunwillinglynominated our webpage 787.863.0313 and bepartofourfamily. email: ¡ VISIT US! [email protected] Join ustoday at AMENITIES www.sunbaymarina.com Fajardo langosta •Fax: • AmpleParking Located1/2mileAwaybyDinghy • USCustomandImmigration ElConquistadorHotelandCasino ElegantRestaurantssuchas • NearSmallEateriesandUpscale ConvenienceStore • NearbyShip'sChandleryand • LaundryFacilities • RestroomsandShowers • WaterandElectricity andWi-Fi • ComplementaryCableTV (lobster) and tell folks we’ve (lobster)andtellfolkswe’ve —Continued onnextpage 787.863.5282 esposa , )! esposo ) and MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 The San Blas has been an experience we won’t soon has been an experience we The San Blas culture in transition. This is definitely a people and In our nearly two years of cruising, the San Blas has Visit the sailing Brouse family’s website, to come and go. We have met many sailors here from We have met many sailors to come and go. to exchange with interesting stories around the world, adventures. of places and exploration of so glad we started our forget. We are eastern end. at the most remote this huge archipelago like Kuna way of life in communities The traditional in 100 years. not changed significantly Caledonia has history and eager to tell you about their The Kuna are the histori- revolution of 1925 when the great Kuna up with the “Spanish” cally peaceful Kuna got fed trying to tell them where (Panamanian government) language to speak, and they could live and what fertile fishing and farming attempts to take over the Kuna took up arms and the Kuna had established. The read something about the a bloody battle ensued. I’ve a massive Panamanian US stepping in to discourage the 55,000 remaining retribution at the time. Now than half a million at the Kuna, who numbered more are divided between those time of the Spanish arrival, section that does not see in the more remote eastern those in the western por- many yachts or tourism and dress for modern tion who are giving up traditional with yachties and style and have frequent contact Panama. backpackers, and mainland paddling their dugout We’ve had old Kuna fishermen plug their cell phones ulu over to us to ask if we could I have shopped for in for a couple of hours of charging. floors while listening to molas in a reed hut with dirt the latest hits of Canadian singing sensation Justin Bieber. On the island of Tubak in the small village of Mamimatu there is a raised wooden platform on the windward side of the community with a “Digicel” sign (cellular provider in the east and west Caribbean) on top, as this is the only place one can hope to get a cell signal from on the island and only when the wind is blowing the right way! Kuna women dressed in the traditional molas, with beadwork on their arms and legs, gold nose rings, and rouged cheeks will paddle over to ask for fashion magazines. been a highlight as the culture and way of life is more removed from our own than any place we’ve yet to see. If you plan to visit this intriguing land I would advise you do so soon before too many things change. And bring lots of cash for molas! web.me.com/saildiscovery. Yesterday we dropped the hook in the crowded Twelve-year-old Wes had fun playing with the starfish Twelve-year-old Wes had fun playing with the starfish at uninhabited Kanildup our early morning departure out of the San Blas to sail our early morning departure out of the San Blas to sail the 55 miles to Portobello, Panama. anchorage in the West Lemons to go to the internet bar on shore at Nugaruachirdup to get our first internet access in a month. The bar has three plugs to connect to the ethernet and the connection is painfully slow. For US$3 an hour you can drink one-dollar cold beers and chat with the other sailors waiting for their e-mails mola purchase and we would stop at the grand count and we would stop at the mola purchase hours until This vow lasted 24 of 19 in our possession. a young lady and bought one more from Kirk caved in preparing for Cays, where we sit now in the Chichime

Discovery . Laura is the 15-year-old from Holland. Laura is the 15-year-old from Guppy Continued from previous page Continued from By March 21st we had made our way to the EasternBy March 21st we had made in the Eastern and We spent a couple of nights I can exchange greetings and names and ask where greetings and names and I can exchange Holandés Cays to spend five days anchored in theHolandés Cays to spend Moredup (Barbecue “Swimming Pool” area behind of Banedup or Bug IslandIsland) and the south side here we met Laura Dekker(nicer than it sounds!). It was on board Western Lemon Cays where we finally encountered one of the famous mola makers we’d heard about for weeks, Venancio. Buying molas from Venancio was an experience of almost two hours, as he came aboard and proudly displayed each of his molas, often with an interpretation of the scene or design and the details involved. He certainly is a talented craftsman; his stitches are minute and designs very refined. After viewing the couple of hundred in his collection he then shows each one again as he puts them back into his large Tupperware container, watching you closely for a simple nod to create the “second look” pile. Our “sec- ond look” pile had about 40 molas in it and with one more quick pass we had it down to a dozen. Only at this point will Venancio talk money! Next followed negotiations between Kirk and myself as we have dis- covered over three weeks of almost daily mola pur- chasing, that we have slightly different tastes in molas. We vowed, as Venancio paddled away from to find bread, fruit, fish, etcetera. I often exchange wordsfruit, fish, etcetera. I often exchange to find bread, words in as a few have some basic with local children a couple of dog, and cat. I have learned English like fish, “dup” isKuna language: “more” is turtle, words in the doesn’t seem is Kuna for dog. (There island and “achu” these islands feral dog population in to be a significant to families, we encountered belonged and the dogs the dwellings for, are allowed inside seemed well cared masters in their ulus.) and often accompany their the youngest solo cir- who is endeavouring to become kids enjoyed a few days ofcumnavigator. She and the diving (Claire and Wessome serious snorkelling, skin no air and no weights) andwent down to 40 feet with just inside the outerdrift diving in the six-knot current Dive Instructor from areef with Laura and a Master man-sized rays, and lionfishneighbouring boat. Sharks, will be transiting thewere a few highlights. Laura time as we will and wePanama Canal around the same mature, determined andwill no doubt see more of this months to come as we allcompetent young lady in the points beyond. head to the Galápagos and — several hundred dollars richer, that this was our last several hundred dollars richer, that this was our last MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 tourism (mostlydiving)andsaltproduction.Dutchistheofficiallanguageofboth the mangrovesuntilitpassed. in case.OurplanwastoheadcoastalVenezuelanearTucacasandhangout hits. ThelasthurricanetohitBonairewasin1831,butitisgoodhaveaplanjust occasionally grazeBonaireandCuraçao,buttheyarerarenotusuallydirect an officialemergency,dockageatthemarinaisareducedrate.Hurricanesdo the mooringareacanbecomequiterollyanduncomfortable.Ifgovernordeclares people domakeannouncementsforupcomingevents. by onVHFchannel77andchangeto71or88Atalk.Thereisnocruisernet,but the fullserviceHarbourVillageMarina(US$0.10agallonin2010).Cruisersstand and mighthavetooshallowadraftifthewindreverses. music atunwelcometimesandsomeoftheballsininnerrowareclosertoshore give somethoughttolocation.Theballsinfrontofbarsmayprovideyouwithloud the feeatnearbyHarbourVillageMarina.Ifyouhaveachoiceofmooringballs Kralendijk; thecostisUS$10pernightonafirst-come,first-servedbasis.Youpay 40 mooringballsanchoredbysix-tonblocksspreadoutalongtheshorelineof industry. Youmustuseamooringball;anchoringisnotpermitted.Thereareabout of everysixmonths. which youcanstayforthreemonths.Inotherwords,monthsout return afterthesix-monthclockhasrunout,anewbegins,during mulated durationontheislanddoesnotexceedthreemonths.Ifyouleaveandthen month clockruns,possiblycomingandgoingfromtheisland,solongasaccu- in, asix-monthclockbegins.Youcanstayfortotalofthreemonthswhilethatsix- formerly partoftheNetherlandsAntilles).Undernewrules,whenyoufirstcheck changed sinceBonairerecentlybecameamunicipalityoftheNetherlands(theywere building andthereisadinghydocknearCustoms.TheImmigrationruleshave western Avesislands).CustomsandImmigrationareco-locatedinthe cruiser amenitiesandalargecommunity. and snorkelingCuraçaooffersananchoragethatiswellprotectedhas precipitation fallsfromOctobertoJanuary.Bonaireoffersworld-classscubadiving are dryislandsandmorethanhalfofthe22inches(52.8cm)averageannual DESTINATIONS LAST Bonairians areveryfriendlyandwelcomingtovisitors.Thetwomainindustries A fewtimesayearthewindreversesdirectionandcomesoutofsouthwest Fresh waterismadeatadesalinationplantandyoucanfillupyourboat’stank Kralendijk isthecapitalofBonaireandcenterisland’ssmallyachting Bonaire isadaysail(33nauticalmiles)fromVenezuela’sAvesdeSotavento(the Bonaire There areseveralattractionstospendingsummerinBonaireandCuraçao.These by DeviSharp Bonaire, CuraçaoandReturningtotheEasternCaribbean Summer CampforCruisers: and thereturntriptoEasternCaribbean. islands andthismonthIwilltellyouaboutBonaire,Curaçao month ItookyouonatripthroughtheVenezuelanoffshore —Continuedonnext page ment, sotheadageof“ifyouseeit,buyit”appliesheremorethanonmostislands. varies dependinguponwhenthecontainercomesinandifitemwasship- I boughtasmallDutch/Englishdictionaryandfoundthatveryhelpful.Theinventory ents ordirectionsinFrench,justaskingsomeonethestoreforhelptranslation. do notspeakDutchorarelatedlanguageandIoftenfoundmyselfreadingtheingredi- you upatthedock. laundromat whereyoucandropoffyourlaundryordoityourself,andtheywillpick need theycanhaveitemsshippedfromtheirlargerstoresinCuraçao.Thereisa Dutch, EnglishandFrench;itevenhassomeArawakAfricaninfluences. streets andamonglocalsisPapiamentu,whichamixtureofSpanish,Portuguese, Bonaire andCuraçaoalthoughmostpeoplespeakEnglish.Thelanguageofthe in ashelteredareaneartheCustomsbuilding Below: VenezuelanboatunloadingvegetablesinBonaire.Freshlocalproduceissold important totheisland’seconomy Above: ThesolarsaltworksareinthesouthendofBonaire.Saltproductionisstill e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E.

There are a few grocery stores that carry a variety of American and Dutch products. I There areafewgrocerystoresthatcarryvarietyofAmericanandDutchproducts.I There isaBudgetMarinethatcarriesbasicsupplies.Iftheydon’thavewhatyou S BIMINI &DODGER A including forallyour GRE I G LLS &CANVAS R CUSTOM-MADE S Come inandseeus E BBEQUIA

SAILS &CANVAS & framesatcompetitiveprices N E Q AADINES

U C D I stainless steel A A I N needs REPRESENTATIVE N E V S

A S MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

out Arctic Tern The skipper or cap- CARRIACOU Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 [email protected] (page 8), Curaçao Marine announced www.carriacouboatyard.com Caribbean Compass Wherever you anchor, you must have an anchoring permit. Wherever you anchor, you must 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini - Marina Chandlery New environmentally friendly haulout

We returned from our shore leave and finished up painting the bottom and our We returned from our shore leave and finished up painting Returning to the Eastern Caribbean balance the light windsIf you choose to return to the Eastern Caribbean you must as our one-month trip Our return to the Eastern Caribbean was not as leisurely make landfall and then see From Blanquilla you can choose where you want to Curaçao Marine is a full-service yard with secure storage and service workers on yard with secure storage and service workers on Curaçao Marine is a full-service in yard for five weeks while we went to visit family We left our boat in the working After a few days in Spanish Water we motored to Willemstad to haul After a few days in Spanish Customs is a large yellow building at Punda, north of the floating bridge and west north of the floating bridge large yellow building at Punda, Customs is a TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT ● ● ● ● ● ●

other “on the hard” chores. I re-provisioned in Curaçao, which seems to have a more other “on the hard” chores. I re-provisioned in Curaçao, consistent inventory of foods than Bonaire. early November can provideof summer and the risk of hurricanes. Late October and you risk the onset ofa good weather window. If you wait until the end of November you must keep a sharp eyethe tradewinds or early “Christmas Winds”. Regardless, might get lucky and find a fewout for hurricanes brewing in the eastern Atlantic. You to settle for a nearly wind- days of west or southwest winds. At worst you might have Bonaire to Isla Blanquilla (223less period, and motor. If you make the easting from a good trip to Puerto Rico. nautical miles), an east or southeast wind will give you to Bonaire for a few last days west had been. We checked out of Curaçao and sailed hung out with friends for a of diving. We motor-sailed to Las Aves de Sotavento and giving us a brief window of few days. Hurricane Tomas passed us by to the north to Las Aves de Barlovento and west winds and we took that opportunity to move east three-quarters of the way to on to Cayo de Agua, Los Roques. We lost our west wind an easy motor-sail. The light Cayo de Agua, but the east wind was light and it was few-hour trip to Boca de winds continued for a few days and we made a nice anchored behind a reef for the Sebastopol channel in the southeastern Roques and motoring the 120 nautical night. We departed at mid-day and spent a windless night sunrise and, being unfamiliar miles to Isla Blanquilla. We got into Blanquilla before could see to anchor at Playa with the anchorage, hove to until daylight when we resting and waiting for a Yaque. There were several other boats in the anchorage weather window. you to Puerto Rico, with the where the wind takes you. Three to four days can get so after a day of rest we right conditions. The forecast continued to be favorable Vincent & the Grenadines, headed northeast to Chatham Bay, Union Island in St. months before. where our westward adventure had started four-and-a-half that they will be obtaining Customs Free Zone status, enabling the yard to store that they will be obtaining Customs Free Zone status, will apply to the marinas and yachts without time restriction. I am not clear if this you leave your boat. boats at anchor, so be sure to check the regulations before at Curaçao Marine. The passage through St. Annabaii to Schottegat is busy and the through St. Annabaii to Schottegat is busy and at Curaçao Marine. The passage Emma floating pontoon bridge. The bridge operator first obstacle is the Queen it VHF channel 12 and will clear the bridge and move answers to “Fort Nassau” on can Cruise ships enter through the bridge, so it open only as much as necessary. boat like ours they just move it a bit. open wide, but for a small hydraulic trailer pulled by a large tractor. Budget Marine site. They haul boats with a air stocked store within the yard. You can also rent an has a small and very well for which we were very grateful as the daytime conditioner from Budget Marine, 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The yard is a bit remote from temperatures approached the large supermarkets sends a bus to Curaçao Marine grocery stores, but one of you A 15-minute walk will get you to Willemstad where Monday through Saturday. the scenic town. can get a meal or walk around office to check off the the United States. Before our flight we went to the Immigration for six months. In the boat. At that time yachts received a permit to stay in Curaçao April 2011 issue of the tain can go to clear in alone. I think you can take your boat to the Customs dock in I think you can take your boat to the Customs dock tain can go to clear in alone. it as the dock is not set up for smaller boats Willemstad, but I cannot recommend traffic. and there is a lot of commercial Annabaii), an inlet that leads into the large natural harbor called the Schottegat.large natural harbor called inlet that leads into the Annabaii), an Parts of the pastel-colored buildings. a picturesque town with bright Willemstad is that cater to There are duty-free shops World Heritage Site. town are a UNESCO and name- place to shop for electronics This is a reasonable cruise ship clientele. brand clothing. floating bridge is at Otrabanda, over the produce market. Immigration of the floating office is next to The Harbor Authority under the high bridge. to the right, directly ask you to mark anchoring permit. They will here you can obtain an Immigration and anchorages be in one of the permitted anchored and you must where you are Piscadera Baii, Porto Marie, Santa Marta and Santa (Spanish Water, Fuik Baii, Cruz). the Arctic Tern, Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE The floating Queen Emma bridge opened just enough for us to fit through Inset: The floating market in Willemstad has fresh produce from Venezuela Continued from previous page Continued from Curaçao Packet 45, After six weeks of enjoying Bonaire we sailed our Island After a few weeks of non-stop diving, my husband, Hunter, and I decided to dry diving, my husband, Hunter, and I decided to dry After a few weeks of non-stop There are several dive shops that will refill your tanks; in 2010 US$100 would buy that will refill your tanks; in 2010 US$100 would buy There are several dive shops You must check in at Customs, Immigration Bonaire is a world-renowned scuba diving destination and for good reason — the destination and for good scuba diving Bonaire is a world-renowned Not far from the Customs office there is a covered area where produce from Venezuela area where produce Customs office there is a covered Not far from the out for a few days and rented a pick-up truck to explore the island. We drove through a pick-up truck to explore the island. We drove through out for a few days and rented Park in the north end and got some really nice looks Washington Slagbaai National salt we explored the south end and drove through the at flamingos. The next day and found caves with pictographs (rock paintings) flats and salt production areas at approximately 1,000 AD. from the Arawak Indians dated you 20 refills. You can find good deals on new and used equipment and the dive good deals on new and used equipment and the you 20 refills. You can find repairs. Some of the hotels host evening presen- shops will help you with equipment was experts. During our stay the local research center tations by well-known fish hosting fish identification workshops. and the Harbor Authority within 24 hours of arriving in Curaçao waters. You can anchor in Spanish Water and take a bus to Willemstad, which is the capital city of Curaçao. Willemstad is in two distinct parts: Punda and Otrobanda. They are separated by the St. Anna Bay (St. reef is protected and the diving is fantastic. The Bonaire National Marine Park The Bonaire National and the diving is fantastic. reef is protected pay a one-time and Klein Bonaire. You must the entire coast of Bonaire encompasses or to visit the for snorkeling) to dive (US$25 for diving and US$10 “Nature Fee” and you will be pay the fee at a dive shop National Park. You Washington Slagbaai so you do not diving vest. Keep your receipt disc to wire-tie onto your given a plastic are the Washington Slagbaai National Park. The fees have to pay again if you visit You might be given a park orientation that stresses used for resource protection. of the undersea resources. If you are not a certified conservation and protection you to be, you can easily find a class to train and certify scuba diver, but would like to your tanks in your dinghy and motor the half mile as a basic diver. You can load The and tie onto a mooring for the duration of your dive. the island of Klein Bonaire also very good at the mooring field. The average water diving and snorkeling are Fahrenheit (29°C). We used our light wetsuits for diving. temperature is 80 degrees haul-out at Curaçao Marine. 30 nautical miles to Curaçao to prepare for our annual Water, which is a very large The major anchorage in Curaçao is Spanish (Spaanse) is a narrow channel, but it is bay with several marinas and services. The entrance webpage (www.noonsite.com/ well marked and quickly widens. The noonsite current information about Members/val/R2009-05-14-2) contains a wealth of anchoring permit. This docu- checking into Customs, Immigration and obtaining an ment also has information about the shopping buses, laundry, filling cooking gas, etcetera. The WiFi provider also has a very helpful document (similar and perhaps more current) that is avail- able on the homepage at no charge. There is a morning net on VHF channel 72 at 7:45 and the net is in English, even though English is not the first language of most of the cruisers. is sold. The variety is small, but it is all more or less local and fresh. This is a good place or less local and fresh. This is small, but it is all more is sold. The variety basic Spanish. to use a bit of — MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 who wanttoactasguides(forafeeofcourse).Theywillsaytheclimbis“easy”,but way. AsyouapproachtheroadtoPitonsyou’llbegreetedbyeageryoungmen Pitons, bearinmindthatitisaverychallengingclimbtakingtwoormorehourseach years themorebrittlerockaroundplugshaseroded.Ifyouwanttoclimb right betweenthePitons.TheGrosandPetitPitonsarevolcanicplugs—over Site. MooringsareavailableatSoufriere,Malgretout(justnorthofthePitons)and tains risingrightoutofthesea.TheareaaroundthemisaUNESCOWorldHeritage have morefun. and waterfall,youcanchangeintheroomsprovided,giveupyoursecondticket own orjoinaguidedgroup.Whenyouarereadytotakedipinthemineralbaths you needtobuytwotickets.Onenteringthegardencanlookaroundonyour Waterfall. Ifyouwanttovisitboththegardensandsulphurspringwaterfall, grounds therearemineralbathsfedbyundergroundhotspringsandtheDiamond sides ofthehillsaroundPitons. hot spots.Ifyouhaveagoodview,canseesteamescapingfromventsonthe indication ofhowhottheearthis,asnothingtallerthangrassescangrowonthese you’ll noticethattherearepatchesofearthhavelow-growingvegetation—an relating tothearea’svolcanicnature.AroundSoufriere(thenamereferssulphur) ing anddiving,Soufrierehasquiteanumberofattractionstoofferthevisitor,many the islandaround1803,Castriesbecameofficialcapitalandstillistothisday. 1746. ItalsoservedasthefirstcapitalcityofcountrybutwhenBritishtookover This wasthefirstofficialtownonisland,recognizedbyFrenchgovernmentin things toseeanddo.Itmaybetinybymetropolitanstandards,butitisfullofhistory. I livedinthetownofSoufriere,southisland,andfounditfullinteresting Spanish andHindimanyspeakerscannotrecognizeParisianFrench. majority ofthelanguageiscomposedFrenchdialectbutitalsocontainssome of St.LuciaisEnglish,however,theunofficiallanguageKweyol(FrenchCreole).A of thefirstthingsInoticedaboutislandwaslanguage.Theofficiallanguage byJo-AnneNinaSewlal But thereal“stars”ofSoufrierearePitons,apairimpressiveconicalmoun- If youlikeawalk,visittheDiamondBotanicalGardens.Itisquitelargeandinits It’s worthspendingsometimeinthisareaas,asidefromthewell-knownsnorkel- Most visitorstoSt.Luciastayinthenorthernpartofisland.WhileIwas In AugustoflastyearIwasfortunatetocallSt.Luciamyhomefortwoweeks.One SOUTHERN ST.LUCIA RAMBLING AROUND of history Soufriere isfull French colonialtimes, St. Lucia’scapitalin ALL ASHORE… fees areubiquitous Above: Admission HOUSEOFSEAFOOD CHATEAU MYGO wide selection of souvenirs at affordable prices. Sought-after items include batik in the wide selectionofsouvenirsataffordableprices.Sought-afteritemsincludebatikinthe of Choiseul.InthecentreSoufriereyoucanvisitTheImageTreestore,whichhasa with handicraftitems.OthercraftstoresincludetheChoiseulArtsCentreinvillage the craftsectionofCastriesCentralMarket,wheretherearerowsandstalls stores intheRodneyBayarea,butifbargainingisyourthing,you’llbeparadise placed hereduringtheSecondWorldWar. for cooking.IwassurprisedtocomeupontheoldlandingstripofaUSairbase in St.LuciaandBarbados,butnowitisusedformakingcharcoal,primarily the island.Thewoodfrommangrovesusedtobefuelsugarcanefactories the islandindistrictofVieuxFort,andcurrentlyonlypocketmangroveon island, bothofwhichareendemicspecies. may evenseetheSt.LuciaOrioleandParrot,nationalbirdof of Micoud,thisforesthasanetworkgentlyundulatingtrails.Ifyouarelucky, Trail intheQuilesseForest.Locatedsoutheastofislandnearvillage so youcaneat,relaxandswim. is largerthanthefirst.Atsecondonetherearepicnictablesandchairssetup is notsteepanda30-to45-minutewalktakesyoupasttwowaterfalls;thesecond thing. AskfordirectionsatPalmer’sGasStationontheroadintoSoufriere.Thetrail day —theviewsarespectacular. edly the“easier”climb,withsomestepscutintopartsofsteeptrail.Pickaclear you knowyourcapabilities.TheGrosPiton(at2,619feetor786metres)issuppos- of LifeSciences,UniversitytheWestIndies. this islandhastooffer.Agoodexcusevisititagain! from copra,thedriedmeat Marigot Bay, St.LuciaPhone:(758)451-4772 VHF 16 After touring this wonderful island you will need some souvenirs. There are many After touringthiswonderfulislandyouwillneedsomesouvenirs.Therearemany During mystayIalsovisitedtheMankotémangroveforest,locatedinsouthof A bitfartherfromSoufriere,youmightenjoyatrekalongtheDesCartierNature If youwantalessstrenuoushike,triptotheCanariesRivermightbejust Jo-Anne N.SewlalBSc.,MPhil.,isstudyingforherdoctoraldegreeattheDepartment My twoweeksinsouthernSt.Luciaweregreat.However,Icouldnotseeeverything Coconut oilisextracted Free watertaxipickupfrom your yachttoourdock! Right: Acoprahouse. 5 &more people&Captaineats for free! of thecoconut Free dockingforyachtsdiningwithus! * Pizzas * Seafood * Steaks on cocktails&beer! access hoursareposted. ists. Atmostlocationsthefeesand apply toeveryone,bothlocalsandtour- pay anadmissionfee.Notethatthefees guide. Evenattinywaterfalls,onehasto sion fees,tomooringhiringa sights, withcostsrangingfromadmis- income sobepreparedtopayseethe beauty, buttourismisitsmajorsourceof minute walkfromthecentreofSoufriere. Hummingbird Resort,locatedaboutafive- batik boutique“St.Lucie”atthe unique St.Lucianstyle.Youcanvisitthe St. Luciaisanislandfullofnatural All Day &Night Happy Hour MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 up to 60up to 65up to 75 $1.20up to 80 $1.35 $1.40 $1.70 $1.02 $1.15 $1.19 $1.45 $0.84 $0.95 $0.98 $1.19 up to 32up to 40up to 50 $0.80 $1.00 $1.10 $0.68 $0.85 $0.94 $0.56 $0.70 $0.77 up to 100 $1.75 $1.49 $1.23 LOA in feet Daily $/ft$/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day mths 6 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for feet bookings yachtsFor LOA, above of longer 100 periods, please contact us for a personalised quote. New Season Rates – 1 December to 31 May Season RatesNew – 1 December to 31 INDIES

WEST 1 (473) 415 0837 or email or email 0837 415 1 (473) + EGYPT | ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA EGYPT | ITALY www.cnmarinas.com/plm Port Louis Marina is justifiably known as one of the best appointed, as one of the best appointed, known justifiably is Marina Louis Port spectacular location its With the Caribbean. in full-service marinas the perfect cruising base for it’s capital, to the island’s adjacent Grenadines. the unspoilt a berth season, the forthcoming for rates new our with Now, affordable. more even is Marina Louis at Port to offer, has luxury and the marina the convenience all enjoy You’ll marina-wide security, 24-hour facilities, dockside exemplary including more. and broadband direct with airport, international own its from benefits also The island London. and York New to Miami, flights & Nicholsons Camper operated by and owned is Marina Louis Port on hand staff knowledgeable and are friendly our and Marinas, you. a day to welcome hours 24 Marina, a berth Louis about securing at Port information more For on Donelan Danny please contact [email protected] Port Louis Marina, Grenada – Grenada Marina, Louis Port affordable welcoming, beautiful, MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 with acoldbeer. water. TheAquariumrestaurantrightonthebeachmakesaniceplacetorefresh turquoise blueseabutofferssomegoodandsafesnorkelinginrelativelyshallow side ofPointSalinetoMagazineBeach.Notonlydoesithavegloriouswhitesandand draft. able conditionsitmakesacharminganchorageforthosewithshallowenough place toescapeandrelaxinthequietshallowwatersofsecludedbay.Infavour- other anchoragesandmarinasbyroad. anchor justtothenorthordockatPortLouisandcomebydinghy,arrivefrom restaurants andmakesafunlivelyplacetohangoutfortheday.Youcan Popular withbothlocalsandtouristsalike,itislinedhotelsbeachside of those,alargeexpansewhitesandbeachstretchingformorethantwomiles. reserve themforswimmingorowingtopollutionconcerns.GrandAnsebeachisone gems canbefound.Manyofthebeachesyouareunabletoanchoroff,inorder them visitwww.underwatersculpture.com. women becomehiddenbyandre-emergefromtheshiftingsandsofseafloor. age, thesefiguresdepicttheongoingdevelopmentofislandanditspeopleas Grenadian women.Scatteredaboutinanareathatsufferedconsiderablestormdam- change. GraceReefinthenorthernpartofbayplayshostto16figures statues, adaptingtotheenvironmentaroundthemaslightandmarineconditions changes inyourlife).Asthelivesofchildrenchangeandevolveovertime,sodo children holdinghands;itiscalledVicissitudes The mostrecognizableandperhapseasiest-to-findsculptureisthecircleoflife-sized each dayasmarinelifeandweatherconditionsaffectthemtheirenvironment. are damagingtothefragilecoralreefs. for marinelifetogrowandprovideanalternativewateractivitiesthatelsewhere corner. Withatotalof65sculpturestheaimparkistoprovideanenvironment a littlerolly,tryanchoringinGrandMalBaytothesouthanddinghyingaround in yourownboat.Freemooringbuoyshavebeenputplacebutifyoufindthearea Caires Taylor.Itisaccessibleeitherbyroadandashortwalk,organizedtour,or of water? boatload. Whatbetterwayforustoexplorethisislandthanthroughourlove tropical rainforests.It’snowondertouristsandcruisersalikeflocktherebythe If it’sadayofsnorkelingyoufancythentryheadingfartherwestalongthenorth For somethingalittlemoreserene,thepristinebeachatMorneRougeisperfect Grenada isnotwellknownforitsbeachesbutifyoudigalittledeepersomereal Gems ofBeaches To findoutmoreinformationabouttheseandtheothersculptureswhereto Standing inthesand,eachsculpturetellsadifferentstory,changingandgrowing The underwatersculptureparkatMoliniereBaywasdesignedbyartistJasonde Underwater SculpturePark Grenada isoneofthoseislandsthathasitall,frombeautifulbeachestolush Tel :+590872043•Fax: +590875595•[email protected] •VHF:16/12 Peace andquietatLaSagesse MARINA PORTLAROYALE by RosieBurr • • • • at marina office at marinaoffice andshopsintown surroundedby thebestrestaurants SaintMartincustomsclearances Hurricaneprotected 90dock spacesand48buoys InthecenterofMarigot,

(meaning theupsanddowns -Marigot–97150SaintMartinF.W.I —Continuedonnextpage a wildandwindsweptbeachthatformspartofGrenada’snationalparks. are morethanlikelytohavetheplaceyourself.ItfacesSugarLoafIslandandis the AtlanticOcean.LeveraBeachissomewhatmoreoffbeatentrackwhereyou of ricketybeachbars.Arockyoutcropprovidesanareatoswimin,shelteredfrom coast areworthavisitbyroad.Bathwaybeachisanotherpopularspotwithcouple at St.David’sHarbour. and walks.ItishometoLaSagesseresortrestaurant.Youcananchornearby a longstretchofundisturbedsandlinedwithpalmtreesandlacednaturetrails For somethingalittlemorewildandrugged,anyofthebeachesonnortheast Over onGrenada’ssoutheastcorner,LaSagesseisabeachfornaturelovers.It Wonderful Water Grenada: Grand Anseisafunplacetogetwet MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 .com Hiking to Mount Carmel Falls, the highest in Grenada . They have traveled through 23 countries and more than 12,000 miles in six and more than 12,000 miles through 23 countries . They have traveled So whether you want to swim off a beautiful beach, explore underwater artwork, beach, explore underwater want to swim off a beautiful So whether you Corbin 39, the Caribbean aboard their Sim Hoggarth are cruising Rosie Burr and 45-minute hike — you will find two larger falls, Au Coin and Fontainbleu. The falls, Au Coin and Fontainbleu. — you will find two larger 45-minute hike interesting to but it is nevertheless so a guide is not necessary, paths are marked, you. points of interest around point out plants and other have someone in Grenada is something water-wonderful mountain stream, there or get into a cool for you! Alianna blog at www.sailblogs.com/member/alianna39. years. Visit their Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Underwater sculptures at Moliniere Bay provide a unique snorkeling site Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Continued from previous page Continued from Concord Falls is situated halfway up the west coast. You can take a bus and a Concord Falls is situated halfway up the west coast. Mount Carmel is a less-visited site a few miles south of Grenville on the east Mount Carmel is a less-visited site a few miles south Seven Sisters is Seven Sisters is Wayside Waterfalls of the best further, Grenada has some appetite for wetness even To whet your

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

Magazine Beach, ideal for lunch and a swim long walk up the hill, or drive and park directly outside. A small fee is charged and long walk up the hill, or drive and park directly outside. allows you access to toilets and changing facilities. Concord is the first of three falls. The deep pool offers a refreshing dip in the clear water as it cascades down into the River Concord; if you are brave enough you can swim around the back of the falls and let the currents push you out the other side. Farther up — about a coast. This again takes you through private land where a small fee may be charged. coast. This again takes you through private land where through tropical foliage, A guide is useful as he takes you on a 20-minute walk over 70 feet and are the explaining all the flora and fauna. Two falls drop from highest in Grenada. not one but a series of falls — seven to be precise! A small fee and a 45-minute walk through a pri- vate plantation takes you on a trail with tropical vistas, past nutmeg and cocoa trees and down through ver- dant rainforest. Not to be done on a rainy day, flip-flops are a “no-no”. At the first waterfall, known as St. Margaret’s, you can swim in the pools below. The very of the Seven Sisters falls adventurous can take a guide and carry on up the rest falls themselves! — the only way back down being through the river and Annandale Falls near Grand Etang. A short walk leads you to the falls that drop 30 Annandale Falls near Grand Etang. A short walk leads while you snap them with feet to pools below. Locals like to jump from great heights ships days these falls can your camera for a small fee. Be warned that on cruise get very busy. waterfalls in the Caribbean. One of the most popular and easiest to drive to is most popular and easiest the Caribbean. One of the waterfalls in — MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 aboard insemi-civilizedfashiononthehard. board aloeplantthrivesonit!).Anextraaddedattractionisitsidealusewhenliving that —threemonthsafterbeingfullycompostedfromitspeatmossbase.(Ouron- odor-free, self-tendingforthreemonthsandproducingperfectgardenfertilizerafter composting toilet.Howmarvelousithasturnedouttobe:compactinsize,quiet, made, inanticipationofbeingacceptedasBayHosts,wasaportableNature’sHead to activatingournever-commissionedholdingtank.Oneoftheboatpurchaseswe waters andnopump-outstations,wewantedanenvironmentallycorrectalternative caretaking ofthispreciousresource.Withnooverboarddumpingallowedinpark nant toourdinghyandstartedofficialdutiesinmid-December2010. Proudly hoistingournewNationalParkburgeeintherigging,wepostedaNPpen- Ranger toverifythatwefullycompliedwithParkRegulations,wereaccepted. catamaran intheUSVirginIslandsandathoroughvesselinspectionbyPark Background check,aNationalParkLawEnforcementregistrationofour from thelivelyandheavilyvisitedislandofSt.Thomas.AfteraUSFederalCriminal of thecharmingislandSt.John,islocated20minutesacrossPillsburySound 60 feetintheMarineNationalParkbays.ThepristinePark,comprising85percent of gasolineamonthforouroutboardandfreemooring,mandatoryboatsunder time toslowdownabitandsmellthoserosesmorethanonce. ing 16yearscircumnavigatingboththeworldandCaribbean,perhapsitwas harbor-hopping Caribbeancruisingitinerary.Nowinourmid-seventies,afterspend- munity andenvironmentwouldsuitusforalongerperiodthanourusualshort-term nity to‘plant’ourselvesfortheminimum-requiredthreemonthsseehowcom- thought itsoundedlikeareallyworthwhileendeavorandwouldgiveusanopportu- tion ofcruisingfriendswhohadservedashostsinadifferentbaylastseason.We of St.JohnintheUSVirginIslands. cruising boatsmooredineitherCaneelorHoneymoonBaysonthenorthwestcoast when myhusband,John,andIembarkedinourdinghytomaketheroundsof Station ofthatfloatoverthere.” lopes hereforyouruse,whichyoucanplaceinthesecureslotofMooringPayment help answer?Areyouawareoftheovernightmooringfee?Wehavepaymentenve- Virgin IslandsMarineNationalParkonSt.John?Doyouhaveanyquestionswecan for thisarea.WelcometoCaneelBay.Maywegiveyousomeinformationaboutthe allowed intheParkand10:00 ing andkayakingweremarvelous.Thewhitesandbeachesareclean.Nojetskis are — waspostcard-perfect.Thewaterswereperfectlyclear,sotheswimming,snorkel- bequeathed totheNationalParkServicealongwithmostofislandSt.John Rockefeller (waybeforeitwas“in”tobesoenvironmentallyconscious),andthen place setting—infrontofthefamousCaneelBayEcoResortbuiltbyLawrence Dutch SeaScout,soourdutiesworkedoutperfectlyforusasacouple.Ourwork- and interestingyachtieseveryevening.IamthesocialpersonaJohnaformer but thesunsetsmadeupforit,asdidmeetingandhelpingmanymostlylovely true forusinournotoriouslyrollynorthwestbays,especiallythenortherlies— these couriersfromtheswiftcompletionoftheirappointedrounds”.Thesamewas blance totheearlydaysofUSPostalService,when“neitherrainnorheat…stays early fallmonths. New Jerseybeachhome,andlandtravel intheUSandEurope,forsummer Caribbean sixmonthsoftheyearaboard their catamaran to theLeewardsandWindwardsoncemore whilewe’restillyoungandableenough! envision returningagaintothislovelyspot inouradvancingyears.Butfirst,it’soff writers, artistsandactors…ourkindof folks. openings, charityracesandtheSt.JohnFilmSociety,aswellwithsomefellow the FriendsofNationalPark,AnimalCareCenter,ArtGalleryexhibition magazines, Netflix(!)andboatparts.Webegantoestablishsocialconnectionswith Depot wassoveryconvenient. board, aswellrepairouroldones),OfficeMaxforanewlaptop,KMartandHome Budget Marine,OffshoreMarine(whereweneededtopurchaseanewYamahaout- activities, thehighlypragmatictax-andduty-freeaccessforcruisingyachties to sentations attheAntillesPrepSchool.Whilenotassoul-nourishingourcultural Arts Center,the“ArtsAlive”programsinTillettGardensand“Forum” pre- restaurants andlovelybeaches,plusfilmsconcertsattheReinholdPerforming there —allduty-andtax-freeaswelltheSt.ThomasYachtClub,diverse an hourquitehandyonourdaysoff.Welovedbeingabletogetthemanyshops dining outinthemanyexcellentandinterestingrestaurantsthere. Bay, St.John’scapital,foreaseofprovisioning,shopping,culturalactivities and peaceful neighborhood.WealsovaluedtheproximityofourassignedbaystoCruz hBtVltJb J t l V t B The BestVolunteerJobTh As NationalParkBayHosts,wefeltthatshouldsettheverybestexampleof The positionofBayHostofferednopay,butwewouldbeprovidedwithtengallons We hadappliedforthevolunteerpositionsafewmonthsagoonrecommenda- So itwenteveryafternoonfrom5:00to7:00 The mostfrequentresponse:“IwantYOURjob!” “Good afternoon!We’reJohnandSuzanne,yourNationalParkvolunteerBayHosts While thejobdoesindeedsoundidyllic,itisworthnotingthattherearesem- For moreinformationontheVirginIslands NationalParkvisitwww.nps.gov/viis. Author SuzanneLongacreandherphotographer husbandJohnGideonsecruisethe Yes, webegantofeeltiestheland-based winteringcommunityandcantruly On St.John,weestablishedaMailboxatConnectionsforreceivingUSPSmail, We alsofoundtheconvenienceofbeingabletosailoverSt.Thomasinlessthan in theCaribbean! THIS CRUISINGLIFE by SuzanneLongacre PM commencementofQuietHoursmadeforavery PM fivedaysaweekforthreemonths,

Zeelander

, returningtotheir JOHN GIDEONSE JOHN MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

Cat , he is Stopp Knot as it turned Stopp Knot Stopp Knot , and their many friends along with us to the Pitons, is a difficult one for John, but provided the lessons and moti- Stopp Knot , a C&C Landfall 48, underway Stopp Knot met her demise by accidental fire on Stopp Knot Stopp Knot , and traveling up and down the chain each win- Stopp Knot Certainly, The repercussions of the evening were not complete The repercussions of the evening The adventures were not limited to the Virgins. Over Stopp Knot The loss of Left: in her prime Below: Captain John has introduced many Canadians to happy Caribbean cruising Grenada, and in St. Lucia since 2004, introduced many eastern Canadians to the beauty of the Caribbean. However, over the years, some attrition occurred with respect to the number of owners, until the boat, the chores, and all the bills were Captain John’s alone. crowd of other sailors and a few locals. Apparently, I sailors and a few locals. crowd of other disrespectful cups, and possibly a little was deep in my told me to be humorous. The captain in my attempts “Great the crowd with Canadian later that I regaled that caused Brothers” howls White North/MacKenzie pain, imitated their ears in obvious the locals to cover Queen with my best fake Christmas greetings from the Who Need People” as British accent, and sang “People Barbara Streisand and her if I were Rich Little, just as their bikes by the bar on bodyguards were walking in the harbour. their way back to a mega-yacht were preparing for a New until a week later, as we to a deep-water mooring Year’s Eve supper while tied on deck, I engaged a in Soper’s Hole, Tortola. Alone in front of us. I mentioned gentleman who was moored so close that I could jump that these moorings were at supper. He responded aboard and serve their wine “Eww, I wouldn’t like that!” with a very British accent: insulted him, I engaged Hoping I hadn’t just somehow he was from and how him further by asking him where cruise. He advised long he had been on this particular down from their home that he and his family had come last year. I responded in England, just north of Essex, all Canadians from New by explaining that we were vacation. He responded: Brunswick, enjoying a short and left harbour. the years, the captains moved the boat to Grenada and the Grenadines, and ultimately to Rodney Bay in St. Lucia. With six years in the Virgins, four years in vation for my wife and me buying our own boat, “I know. We met you in Anegada a week ago.” With “I know. We met you in Anegada a week ago.” With lingering guilt and apparent masochism, I responded with: “Sorry I don’t remember… How was that for you?” His response, again with the strong but musical British accent was: “Awful really. But we’re having counseling.” I guess I expected a shot across the bow, but that hit me right at the waterline. He went down his companionway to join his family, and I slunk qui- etly down below to share this exchange with our crew. The next morning, the British boat left its mooring and their complete crew saluted Tales ter. We have enjoyed each trip to St. Lucia, stopping in and joining John, in and around Rodney Bay. Often enough, John and crew would sail Fort de France, or the many other bays in the region. We have many pictures of the boat surfing along beside us in both the waters of Martinique and St. Lucia. June 12th, 2010, while John was in Canada, enjoying his grandchildren. he has not abandoned us in the Caribbean. While dreaming of repairing or replacing trying out shore living in Rodney Bay, with the support of his many friends in the area. I hope John finds a way to get another boat or accepts another way to stay in the part of the world he loves. He deserves it and we deserve to have him around down here, teaching us how to enjoy this life.

DAWN CORBETT (2) . Indeed, Stopp Knot CRUISER’S PROFILES CRUISER’S S/V Stopp Knot One can assume that his personal tragedies had The crews, at least under Captain John Fallon, and John was no stranger to tragedy. After finding the John was no stranger to tragedy. some bearing on his insistence on a positive attitude and positive experiences aboard John’s approach to life in the Caribbean is legendary. I can remember one early experience with him that demonstrated his approach. He and I had determined to take care of the ship’s laundry one morning at Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda. The large laundry facility was soon full of quiet women: housekeepers, chamber- maids, cruiser first mates, and charter first mates. Strangers to each other; they were all very busy, quiet, and making no eye contact. John would ask a local woman if she was being good, then ask her why, no matter what the answer. He would start up a conver- sation with another regarding their particular laundry, ask another advice on his own laundry, start a joke with a fourth, and include the fifth in the teasing. Within minutes, everyone was acknowledging and enjoying the company of the rest of the people in their surroundings, and enjoying the time being spent on their chores. at least when we were aboard, enjoyed their tots, and a lot of disposable income went to the islands via the bars and “rum houses”. One story that I am allowed to tell, since I am the protagonist, involved a Christmas day trip to Anegada. We arrived early enough to enjoy the beach bar at the Anegada Beach Hotel, with a love of his life late in his own life, he lost an adopted love of his life late in his own and lost his wife only two son to a motorcycle accident, He honoured a prom- years later in a skiing accident. young daughter in the ise to raise his remaining love and patience, even Jewish faith, and did so with atheist. though John remains an outspoken

by Laurie Corbett Topp Knot knows that we . was at least 15 years Stopp Knot was magnificent, the long was always easy. The cap- Stopp Knot Stopp Knot Enjoyment Lessons Aboard Enjoyment Lessons STOP? NOT! STOP? had a large cockpit, flat vertical stern, Stopp Knot Stopp Knot , sailed her to Canada, and overhauled was a single-masted, cutter-rigged, 1980 clean enough to enjoy her. Stopp Knot Stopp Knot Our first visit to We hopped in with our bags and headed out through As instructed, we went to the end of the nearest As instructed, we went to When we first visited this beautiful boat, John Stopp Knot Under sail, Life aboard During our times on board, we usually woke up to hear the dozens of boats to see our captain and accommo- dations for the next week. The captain, John Fallon, could not come to meet us at the dock, as a mid- afternoon cockpit/cocktail party was in full swing, with other seasonal cruisers in attendance. We soon learned that it was not a party for our arrival, just a typical event aboard rickety dock, and just started to wave our hands. In rickety dock, and just started and exotic Trellis Bay, front of us was the strange shapes and sizes, and a crowded with sailboats of all had a restaurant with a little island that we heard of nowhere, a dinghy donkey. Shortly, almost out the control of Jeanne, the appeared in our view, under very close friend from home who had convinced us to join her on this adventure. ago, but it doesn’t seem it. Dawn and I landed for the ago, but it doesn’t seem it. airport on Beef Island, first time at the quaint little instructions, we cleared Tortola and, following written luggage that included our Customs with our carry-on the door, politely turned snorkel gear, walked out made our way down the down the taxi drivers, and parallel to the runway. potholed little road to the sea, shared its ownership with five other partners, all shared its ownership with five other partners, all friends from the Royal Kennebecasis Yacht Club in Saint John, Canada. Together, they had purchased the boat from a New England gentleman, Dr. Topp, in the spring of 1994, changed her name from flat foredecks over a raked bow, and a well-defined flat foredecks over a raked bow, and a well-defined pilothouse. Under the large cockpit was a very large owner’s cabin, with two beds and a private head with shower. The fully windowed pilothouse made for a high ceiling over an airy, bright and vast salon, with easy seating for ten around the portside table, and a quarter berth/couch on the starboard side. Farther forward was a large galley, with a midships cabin on the opposite side, a second full head, and a V-berth cabin. The spacious cockpit seemed to hold as many as could show up for a drink, and was also a great place to sleep after a full day of sun and sail. C&C Landfall 48, with the typical lines and styling of C&C Landfall 48, with the typical lines and styling of the C&C yachts: always built with both racing and cruising in mind. With a stronger lean towards cruis- ing, to her systems and interior. Humorously, they had to sign a federal document saying they would not “enjoy her” in Canadian waters to avoid paying significant duty and taxes during the refit. The next year, they organized crews and sailed her to the British Virgin Islands, and began the mostly friendly bickering over vacation rotations, maintenance schedules, and man- agement schemes. waterline making even an upwind tack in the Christmas Winds seldom more than an enjoyable romp. The open-water sails to Anegada often had crewmembers at the bow, enjoying the spray as each great wave was sliced, and being airborne in each trough. learned nothing about housekeeping from John. Indeed, the first day of our vacation was usually spent getting Stopp Knot John communicating by ham radio on the Mississauga Maritime Net with his friends in Canada, and then enjoyed his pancakes with Aunt Jemima Syrup (topped up with Pusser’s Rum). We learned about daily engine checks, other maintenance chores and schedules, and sail handling — all very valuable to our future. Anyone who knows John or visited tains/owners often filled the boat with their friends, and always had an adventure. Each new crew charted their special courses back and forth around the British and Spanish Virgins, and likely made hundreds of trips across the Sir Francis Drake Channel. The great majority of meals were managed by the many restau- rants of the area, with their staff often recognizing the crews. At least they all recognized Captain John, with his easy, positive, extrovert personality. Under John’s management, the crew appeared to favour the many Pusser’s outlets; as well as the Norman’s Bight area with its unique restaurants, anchorage, and snorkel- ing. Any arguments or ill humour would result in a caution from the captain: “We don’t come down here for that foolishness.” MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 byLuisBlondet SURVEYED, PAIDANDAWAY! Part Two: (Mis)Adventures inColombia Tayana 37, paperwork requiredtoremaininRodadero,afirebrokeoutaboard (11°12.27N 74°13.70W),whichisnotaportofentry.WhileIwasashoredoingthe granted anextensiononmytemporaryimportationuntilDecember2nd,2010. been impounded. because thevessel’stemporaryimportationhadexpiredandvesselcouldhave not availableaftertheinitial180-dayperiod.Thissituationmademenervous claimed Ineededatouristvisaandwouldnotacceptthefactthatis of JuneandIwasset—orsothought. The 400,000-peso(US$200)feewaswellworththecost.visaarrivedbyend Bogota, theColombiancapital.Iwastoldvisawouldbebackinaweekorless. no laterthanJuly7th. for 12monthscouldbeprocessedinaweekandthatwouldsolvemyproblemifdone on apension.Irespondedthatwas,andhesuggestedpensioner’svisagood this timethelocalheadofDASgotintopictureandaskedmeifIwasretired sal visagoodfortwoyears.Ah,temptation….ButIaskedwhatelsecoulddo.By said, withaverywidesmile,thatIcouldgetmarriedandwouldgivemespou- what Icoulddotoextendmystaylegally.Theveryhelpfulandattractiveyounglady traband duetomyfailurerenewthetemporaryimportation. Coqui and wastoldthatmy180dayswouldexpireonJuly7th. (DAS) hadgivenmeonmypassport.InlateJune,IwenttoDASrenewtouristvisa vessel wasgiventhesamenumberofdaystostayincountrythatImmigration Rodadero. TherequiredpaperworkandDIANvisittothevesselwascompleted tion ofmysailboatastherewasnoknowndatewhenthevesselwouldleave of CustomsandInternalRevenue(DIAN)wasrequiringthatIdoatemporaryimporta- ity, inCartagena,wasprohibitive. enquiries provedthatthecostofhaving surveyor todoasurveydescribingthedamagesandestimatedcostsforrepairs, handles claimsforthemarrivedinlateJanuary.However,Ihadnoluckfindingalocal claim tomyinsurancecompany,anagentfromaclaimsprocessingcompanythat was eventuallyextinguished,thereextensivedamagebelow.Aftersubmittinga Recap fromPartOne:InDecember2009,IsailedtoColombiaaboardmy1985 Four weekslater,theissuewassettledthroughathird-partyintervention.I I wenttoDIANprovidethenewvisainformation.Itwasnotaccepted. I wenttoalocaltravelagencythatdoesthepaperworkandsubmitsitDASin I discussedthesituationwithmymarineagent.WewentbacktoDASandasked PANIC! Iknewthatifhadtoleavefor180days,asrequired,therewouldbeno After someweeks,IwasadvisedbymymarineagentthattheColombianequivalent formetocomebackbecauseDIANwouldhaveimpoundedtheboatascon- S/V Coqui. Experiencinganengineproblem,IanchoredinRodaderoBay Coqui towedtothenearestyachtrepairfacil- Coqui .

Although it S/V

engine mounts,andthenmove sufficient electricalrepairssothatIcouldhavenavigationlights,andtoreplacethe land. Towingbyseawasprohibitivelyexpensive.Sotheonlyoptionlefttomake exercise infutility.ThesettlementfundswerewiredtomybankonJuly23rd. restore a briefnegotiationonseveralitems,Iacceptedtheoffer.Itwasnotnearlyenoughto coming inafewdays.IfinallyreceivedanofferofsettlementonJune15thand,after arrived afewdayslaterandcompletedhissurveyinoneday.Fourmonthswasted! would becomingfromTrinidadtoconductasurveyfortheinsurancecompany.He information providedinthesurveyIhadsentthem,wasinformedthatasurveyor several clarificationissuesandcontactedthemarineengineertoclearthemup. 20th IFedExedthecompletedsurveytoclaimsprocessingcompany.Theyhad sample surveyfrommypreviousboatsohecouldfollowtheformat.OnFebruary the marineengineerwhohaddonefireinspectiontodosurvey.Iprovideda Cartagena tomorrowatnoon. may [email protected]@gmail.com.” local practicesthat undergoing repairs. He currentlylivesinBarranquilla,Colombiaand a hitch. way. WepassedbythedreadedmouthofMagdalenaRiverindarknesswithout November 24th: Enquiries didnotlocateacompanycapableoftransporting On May26ththeclaimsprocessingrepresentativetoldmeanofferofsettlementwas On April22nd,aftermuchdisagreementbytheirsubject-matterexpertsaboutthe As Icouldnotlocateamarinesurveyorfeltcomfortablewith,myagentcontacted November 26th: November 25th Luis says,“IhaveadditionalinformationconcerningImmigration,Customs,and Luis Blondethassingle-handedintheEasternCaribbeanandColombiasince1998. Coqui to its pre-fire condition but I knew that to fight for more would be an toitspre-fireconditionbutIknewthatfightformorewouldbean :

Departed RodaderoheadedforClubNaútico,Cartagena. Arrived atClubNaúticowithoutanymajorproblemsalongthe The Compass

zarpe readersheadedforColombiamayfindofuse.Readers hasfinallybeenissuedandIamreadytoleavefor Coqui underherownpower. Coqui isinClubNaútico,Cartagena Coqui toCartagenaby of complications nearly ayear port ledto fire inaforeign An accidental MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL An avid angler, Captain Gordon Dalgliesh of Trinidad The use of harsh injector cleaners is also not good, injector cleaners is also The use of harsh are treatments that Be careful of false claims. There all of these problems My recommendation to avoid of a biocide will kill all Firstly, the continuous use Secondly, you can also use a fuel stabilizer (not a There is a caution, however, when using biocides With the fuel stabilizer and the fuel micro-biocide

is associated with the SCL Group. See related ad on is associated with the SCL Group. See related ad on page 28. damage done to your pistons, rings, valves and injec- to your pistons, rings, valves damage done will voiduse of increased cetane in diesel tors. Also the manufacturers’ warranties. most if not all craters in time your valves develop little because over believe it or packed with carbon and, them that get valve. These acts as a seal for the not, the carbon away and cleaners take the hard carbon harsh injector valve that basically a crater in your you are left with of power and which causes loss leaks compression, black smoke. a biocide and a die- claim to be a two-in-one product: to read the labels when it sel treatment. But you have biocide is in essence a type comes to these, because a it has to be registered of poison and if it is a poison an EPA number that has with the EPA and assigned on the bottle. There are to be displayed on the label claim to have biological also fuel treatments that The fact is, enzymes are enzymes that “eat” algae. cannot survive in a amino acids and amino acids diesel or hydrocarbon car- hydrocarbon base such as riers such as xylene. growth is the use pertaining to fuel and microorganism of two fuel treatments. Remember that even fresh organisms in your diesel. Ensure that the biocide diesel contains algae, etcetera. both an initial “kill” as well is dual-action: that is it has as a residual treatment. fuel treatment). The reason why I recommend this is that the stabilizer is designed to keep the diesel fresh and up to spec (for up to a year). It keeps carbon mol- ecules from clumping up, which in turn gives you a better burn. A more complete burn maximizes your fuel efficiency, increases power, and minimizes the amount of carbon left on your cylinders, valves, etcet- era. It also significantly reduces the amount of smoke. It breaks up the existing sludge and algae into fine molecules that can be burnt off during the combustion process, it assists with burning off (small amounts of) water in your tank, and it increases the lubricity of the diesel to help lubricate the fuel pump and injectors and keep seals from drying out. and treatments in a boat with a heavily sludged and infected tank. These treatments will kill the bio-organ- isms, as well as break up the sludge. This mess will eventually find its way through to your filters, most often at the worst time (say, in ten-foot seas 50 miles from shore). You must expect to change your filters frequently when these are first introduced. However, in a reasonable time, you will find that the frequency of your filter changes will decrease, to the point where you will be changing filters mainly out of caution or regular servicing. together you can’t lose. You can rest easier at night knowing that your boat’s fuel is algae-free and will not deteriorate over time. THE iiiii Z

rrrrr

Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5

aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers and Degradation of fuel Degradation to haul our boats out by Gordon Dalgliesh Boatowner Diesel Fuel Diesel Fuel is made even worse by the fact worse the fact is made even by that during the summers we tend Agent: Dealer: the Caribbean the Caribbean All of these problems can be avoided by the simple The proper maintenance of your fuel system will However if you use the correct fuel treatments, you Dominica, WI use of the correct fuel treatments and proper mainte- nance of your fuel systems. include the changing of filters when it is necessary to do so; place gauges on top of your Racors so that you may be able to tell when they should be changed. Ensure that your fuel tank seals are not leaking. Pull and clean the pick-up meshing every now and again and if necessary, clean your tank. will eliminate or at least significantly reduce problems. The reason why I say to use the correct fuel treatments is that not all fuel treatments are the same. Some treat- ments in fact do more damage than good. For example, some fuel treatments contain cetane boosters. This idea seems great to most people, but think about it. If your engine is designed to run off of a certain amount of cetane and you add more cetane you are adding more explosion in your piston chamber than the manu- facturers catered for, so more explosions equals more ber elements get damaged as fuel passes. If the rubber get damaged as fuel passes. ber elements deteriorate, injector pump start to elements in your to move it become harder for the pump not only does and it will start to lose power over time the fuel but you fuel pump up to a trip to our favourite eventually lead but leads — which is not only costly and injector store our beloved vessels. to downtime for Budget Marine, Doyle 767-448-2705 Ext Marine 18 Victoria Street, Roseau Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Sailmaker, SeaChoice Products Mercury Marine, Yanmar Marine [email protected] DOMINICA MARINE CENTER : FEATURES ENGINES: 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) @ DUTY-FREE Prices • Easy to carry 25% lighter than wooden-floor inflatables • Air filled floor makes kneeling or sitting extremely comfortable Air Deck boats can be stowed most anywhere. Another slight drawback that diesel fuel faces is the These carbon clumps that have not burnt complete- In addition to the above, diesel fuel inherently comes This degradation of fuel is made even worse by the This degradation of fuel is The main reason for the degradation of our fuel is The main reason for the degradation Diesel fuel, like any carbon-based fuel, comes with a any carbon-based fuel, comes Diesel fuel, like We are all familiar with diesel fuel: it runs our with diesel fuel: We are all familiar Transport has never been easier – with no floor boards AVAILABLE: 6’ 7” (200cm) 46lb(21kg) 7’10” (240cm) 75lb(34kg) 8’10” (270cm) 86lb(39kg) 10’2” (310cm) 92lb(42kg) 11‘2“ (340cm) 99lb(45kg) fact that it is a very “dry” fuel. The reason that I use fact that it is a very “dry” fuel. The reason that I use the word “dry” is that it does not lubricate as it passes, so things like injector seals, plungers and all the rub- ly settle on your piston crowns, valves and injector ly settle on your piston crowns, valves and injector tips, and in the piston chambers. Also the lighter unburnt particles pass through the exhaust and on to our turbos, and eventually pass out of our exhaust as black smoke. This causes the sooting up of our tran- soms and, worse yet, it causes our engines to run inef- ficiently. These deposits on our valves cause the valves to not seat properly and thus lose compression, which results in a loss of power. Also, when we have all that excess carbon build-up on our turbos, it causes them to run inefficiently because it now becomes more dif- ficult for the turbo to spool. with a slight disadvantage owing to the fact that it is a with a slight disadvantage owing to the fact that it is a carbon-based fuel. High heat is created in your fuel in a very short space of time when it goes from low pres- sure to high pressure passing through your fuel pump. The carbon molecules tend to clump together under heat and pressure. When these tiny carbon clumps pass through your injector it’s very hard for the engine’s natural combustion to burn these clumps completely. (Consider: a piece of coal will take a long time to burn but coal dust will burn in an instant.) fact that during the summers we tend to haul our fact that during the summers boats out to do whatever repairs are necessary, or to safeguard them for the hurricane season. This extend- ed amount of time that the diesel sits in our tank allows it to degrade even further by allowing the micro- organisms to have more time to feed on the hydrocar- bons and keep on multiplying, thus creating more sludge and becoming more and more harmful to our engines as time goes on. water. This water gets into our tanks via condensation water. This water gets into some cases osmosis. The or leaks in our seals or in Caribbean makes matters fact that we are in the means that we get worse. This region’s high humidity to condensation. Also our more water in our fuel owing so we get some more water seas are generally choppy, and tank seals, etcet- coming in through the breathers into our fuel it becomes a era. Once this water gets such as bacteria, breeding ground for microorganisms microorganisms are pres- algae and fungi. Once these of the hydrocarbons in the ent in our fuel they feed off that is corrosive and diesel and create a by-product layer of emulsified oil that harmful. It also creates a they multiply and also increases the rate at which of your diesel fuel. increases the rate of degradation settle to the bottom of These organisms also die and our tanks as sludge. specific shelf life. Fuel degrades owing to many factors, Fuel degrades owing to specific shelf life. to our degrades it becomes harmful and once it get in many the quality of fuel that we engines. Also, islands is pretty bad. of the Caribbean engines and generators and most of us can’t enjoy our and most of us can’t engines and generators comes with a it. Diesel fuel, however, boats without the life and effects that may damage number of side boats. reliability of our MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! Crossword Solution 25) SIT 23) WORMS 22) FLIES 21) SEA 18) BLUE 16) COCK 14) RIGGING 13) ODOR 12) HOUSE 10) RAT 8) MATE 7) PAIL 6) HOT 2) MOSQUITOES ACROSS GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, at allIslandWaterworldstoresandJohnson'sHardware, Hurricane SeasonWeatherReports Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,ArmchairSailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore Month’s DOLLY’S ANSWERS infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, or fromwww.iUniverse.comandwww.seabooks.com Exploring Honduras’BayIslands up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com On BoardforAntiguaClassics! information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, NEW! Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Street’s GuidesandDVDsareavailable Read inNext Topical wordisTSUNAMI Street’s guidesaretimeless. Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof … 37) HURT 36) MAST 35) ANTS 34) STRAW 32) AJAR 31) AS 28) BOOBY 26) FRUIT 5) STEER 4) EPA 3) USER 2) MOLLUSK 1) ROACH DOWN and more! Compass 33) AIR 30) WASH 29) BOAT 27) TOWN 26) FAST 24) MAY 23) WOOD 22) FIRST 20) MINI 19) RATTER 17) PESTS 16) CAT 15) GULLS 11) ALGAE 9) TEREDOS 6) HEAD : before, andsomethinghadkeptthemcomingback. & theGrenadines,wereoutinforce.Mosthadalreadydonnedheadlampsanddarkclothing—theydonethis many membersoftheUnionIslandEnvironmentalAttackers,alocalcommunity-basedorganizationinSt.Vincent calling RosemanAdamson(784)526-4500. carefully laythenestsofnextgeneration. — avoidingplasticbags,propellers,and poachersintheAtlantic.IwishthemasafewelcometoBloodyBay, home withthehopethatsomeofthousands ofLeatherbacksthathatchintheCaribbeanthisyearwillmature little moredifficulttonarrowthesearch, sincethewholebeachwascoveredinfootprints—withoutturtletracks. come upslimy-wetfromtheeggs.It’sasimple wayoffindinganest,buttheturtlewatchdust-upshouldmakeit tracks —hidingherbountyfrompoachers whowalkthisbeach.Theycarrylongstickstoprobethesanduntilthey her tracks,bodypits,flipperstrokes,and ultimatelyhernest.Inessence,turtletrackswerechangedtohuman raking sand,throwingandrollingaroundonthesandareallacceptabletechniques. Thepurpose?Tocover waves. Shetookadeepbreath,anddisappearedintothesea. from theUnionIslandersaroundme.SorryAnneliese,Iknowthatwasalongnight. Nexttime,I’llwearblack. she wasalittledisoriented… glowing underthemoon.Iquicklyjukedtoside,behindshadowofadude dressedinblack,butIthink white light—whichisnaturallyonlyseenonthefoamybreaklineofsurf.My T-shirthowever,waswhite,and Roseman noticedaslightproblem:shewasheadedtowardsme.Turtlesnavigate downthebeachbylookingfor Anneliese beganherdescenttowardsthewater, while thegroupchattedandcrackedjokes.As big divots.Thiswentonforanotherhalfanhour, she wassmoothingtheareas,atothermaking — andscootedaroundfromsidetoside.Attimes sandbox, shetossedsandgrainsleftandright final stageofhertask.Likeathree-year-oldin group retreatedbacktotheperimeter. tag numberwereaddedtoherdatasheetandthe “Anneliese”, andsoitwas.Anneliese’sname, Germans livinginCanada,tonameher.Theychose fortable position.Heaskedtwoofthetouristguests, on herhind-leftflipper—outofthewayinacom- number tag,theapplicationforceps,andplacedit tagged. Rosemanacquiredthepre-fabstainless problematic primates. perhaps theirbiggestchallengeinanepoch: changes. Wecanonlyhopethattheyalsosurvive through massextinctions,andenvironmental meticulous geneticprogramming,ofcomplexadaptationmustbeareasonthespecieshaslastedmillionsyears, her throughthemotions,overthreehoursofsurgicaltolayeggshereatBloodyBay.Thatkind a quartercenturyago.Shehaslivedwithnoparentalcare,andinstructionsonnesting.Instinctguided as 27,butitisunlikelyshemucholder.Whatthatmeansthismaybeherfirsttimeonlandsincehatched and afterwardstookgreatcareincoveringthempattingthesanddown. flurry ofaction,allhadanopportunitytotouchtheturtle—andseeherupclose.Shelaidoverahundredeggs, flipper tip.Adiagramwasdrawndepictingbodyshape,previousinjuriesanddistinguishingfeatures.Inthis the watch.Othersdrewmeasuringtapesforseveraldimensions;itmeasuredsixfeetseveninchesfrommouthto and protectthebottomtopofnest.Theyarefirstlasteggslaid. count ofblankstotherecordkeeper.Theareinfertileeggs,slightlysmallerwhichintendedinsulate beach, andstartthrowingsandaround.Whatascene. gave theokaytocomecloser.Iwasfinallywitnessingoneofthesegiants,litbymoon,strokeherwayup the frontlineofcontact)identifiedherasaLeatherback,andsawshewassettlingbeginningto‘bodypit’,he still, tense—soasnottodiscourageherfromcomingup.OnceRoseman(whoisacertifiedhandler,andwason Leatherback seaturtlebumpedherwayinonthesurf.Theexcitementgroupwasremarkable.Atfirstquiet, the moonwasveryclosetoEarthatthatmoment—Ibelieveit.ApolloheldaspotlightoverUnionnight. sparse clouds,shiningsobrightlyitcastshadowsthroughthetreesduringourdescent.I’veheardalotabouthow conservation talkforthefirst-timersofgroup,andwesetoffdowntrail.Thefullmoonpeekedthrough Collins, presidentofthegroup,ledusinaprayerforsafereturn,RosemanAdamsgaverequisitesafetyand ready forturtlewatching The UnionIslandEnvironmentalAttackersandfriends, We arrivedatasecludedpaththecrestofhillleadingdowntoBloodyBayaround10:00 It’s themonthofMarchandstartTurtleWatchSeason2011onUnionIsland.Onnight19th, You canbeapartofourTurtlePatrolsby contactingtheUIEAathttp://environmentalattackers.org/contact-usor So offwewent,backupthehill,into thevan,backtoAshton,Clifton,andspotsinbetween.Ireturned The turtlewatchingworkwasnotquiteover.All16ofusstartedasort watch‘dust-up’.Kickingsand, She circledaroundonemoretime,andfinallymadeherway,arduoussweepby arduoussweep,backintothe “I couldtakethisthingoff—butI’mafraidmyskinmightbewhiter!”Isaid,gaining somequalitybellylaughs Anneliese rosefromhertranceandbeganthe And thencamethetag.Thisgirlhadnotbeen Judging byhersize,itverywellcouldhavebeenfirstlayingseason.Shemaybeasyoung25,orold Stanton, thephotographerfornight,immediatelystartedsnappingshotsofcreatureandpeopleat Our guestofhonourcouldnothavearrivedwithbettertiming.Afteronly20minutesonthebeach,ahuge Supermoon SandDune Turtle Watch TURTLE WATCHSEASON2011 by JonathanUnderwood

egg-laying ‘trance’ A nestingturtleshouldonlybeapproachedwhensheisinthe STANTON GOMES (2) GOMES STANTON “Switch towhite,andstartthecount.”Twomem- pre-assigned rolesdescendedonthecreature. “NOW! There’sthefirstone!”Fivewatchers,with other redturtlelightsglowingontheperimeter. light alreadytrainedonhercarapace,several team astheturtlebegantolay. rienced watchers,resembledaconservationswat enter whilethey’relaying—butthese,theexpe- Roseman haddescribedthetrancestateturtles finished hernest. a metredeep.Wewaited,withlightsoff,asshe pit, about60centimetresindiameter,andalmost hands ofasurgeon,shedugperfectlyround most practicedandattentiveofmotions.Likethe she madehernest.Eachstrokeresembledthe which areaboutthesizeofasmalldinnerplate, Then, shebegantodig.Withherhindflippers, sand around,andfinallysettledonherspot. headlamps tobrightwhitelightandrelayedthe perched onthesideofnestswitchedtheir bers ofthesquad,young,small,andcomfortably “Getready…”Rosemansaidcalmly,hisred I wasn’texpectingtheswitchtoflipsofast: We waitedwhileshepitted,wallowed,flung PM . Katrina MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 10 11 12 1923 13 2016 14 2112 15 2210 16 2310 17 0000 (full) 18 0010 19 0117 20 0200 21 0250 22 0336 23 0420 24 0501 25 0543 26 0624 27 0706 28 0751 29 0838 30 0928 1021 1116 Zar-Par 21 22 23 0321 24 0412 25 0459 26 0543 27 0625 28 0706 29 0747 30 0826 31 0912 0957 June 1046 1 2 3 4 1137 5 1230 (new) 6 1325 7 1419 8 1511 9 1603 1653 1742 1832 Dominican Republic Republic Dominican Guide Cruising Haiti Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com MAY & JUNE 2011 OF THE MOON Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.haiticruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com M MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Marina Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Compliments of May DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1032 5 1116 (new) 6 1203 7 1252 8 1343 9 1436 10 1529 11 1622 12 1714 1805 13 1856 14 1946 15 2037 16 2131 17 2227 18 2326 19 0000 (full) 20 0046 0127 0226 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! FREE CRUISING GUIDES CRUISING FREE

G. LALSINGH

, Susan by Katy Winter A DETOUR A DETOUR TURTLE WATCH SEASON 2011 SEASON TURTLE WATCH TO TOBAGO TO TOBAGO FOR TURTLES You can get further information on Tobago’s leatherback turtles by going to the SOS It is perhaps one of the most humbling experiences I have ever had and it’s prob- Once she lays, she then carefully covers up her nest and flicks sand over the top Slowly she starts to dig with her flippers, you can see how hard it is for her and After about an hour we’re rewarded by the sound of something moving up the John and I have dived for years; he was lucky enough to see a Leatherback off Although John and I got to Turtle Beach via a hire car from our anchorage in car from our anchorage in Although John and I got to Turtle Beach via a hire We sit very still — turtles can be put off from coming up onto a beach or scared off We sit very still — turtles can be put off from coming up John and I were sailing from Grenada to Trinidad in our 35-foot Dufour, John and I were sailing from It’s gone nine o’clock at night on March 28th, 2011 and my fiancé, John, and I are on March 28th, 2011 and my fiancé, John, and I are It’s gone nine o’clock at night Tobago website at www.sos-tobago.org or the charity’s Facebook page, SOS Tobago. ably an experience future generations won’t have if Leatherback numbers continue to decline. Come to Tobago and see this amazing feat of nature before it’s too late. to hide it from any predators and then she heads back out to sea. The whole process has taken around two hours. you sit there thinking about helping but knowing you can’t. Finally, after around three quarters of an hour, her nest is dug and then she lays her eggs. It’s a lot — apparently a female lays up to a hundred eggs each time she nests. It looks like she is crying as she lays her eggs — you can actually see tears in her eyes. You think she must be in pain or is somehow displaying emotion in some way (the females are long gone before the eggs hatch). I later found out it’s how they get rid of the excess salt in their system after being at sea for so long. beach. John and I can just make out a shadow of something about the size of a suitcase lumbering along. It’s a female Leatherback. You can see the effort it takes her, full of eggs, to come up onto the beach. She could have travelled thousands of miles to come back to the beach where she was born. We keep really still so as not to frighten her. She moves slowly along the sand, up and down for about half an hour until she finds a place to make her nest above the high-tide line. Buccoo Reef in Tobago but I have never seen one in the wild. I come from Cornwall, England, and we have had Leatherbacks washed up on the beaches there; some are stranded but sadly often dead, tied up in fishing gear or starved to death after eating marine rubbish and plastic bags mistaken for jellyfish. Researchers at the University of Exeter’s Cornwall campus have carried out extensive research into the migration patterns of these creatures to try and find out why this species is in decline. There are fears that in the next five to ten years Leatherbacks could become extinct in cer- tain oceans — another reason I am here to grab an opportunity to try and see one. Store Bay, you can go on organized tours. Save Our Seaturtles (SOS) Tobago, a Seaturtles (SOS) Tobago, a Store Bay, you can go on organized tours. Save Our gives guidelines on how charity set up to preserve the island’s turtle population, the laying and hatching you should watch turtles so as not to disturb them during and lighting beach fires process. Using flash photography, driving onto the beach during the nesting season are not allowed. SOS Tobago Volunteers patrol the beach (March to August) and SOS Tobago has a list of approved tour guides for this magical experience. in the middle of nesting by activity and by lights. At least the moonlight is bright in the middle of nesting by activity and by lights. At hear is the lap of the waves enough to see when they do come ashore. All you can watching. coming ashore and it’s just a question of waiting and and we made a detour to Tobago specifically to watch the Leatherbacks. and we made a detour to Tobago awareness of the dangers All sea turtles are endangered. Turtle watching raises development they face, including egg collecting, pollution and beachside sitting on Turtle Beach in Tobago hoping to catch a glimpse of the largest sea turtle hoping to catch a glimpse of the largest sea turtle sitting on Turtle Beach in Tobago Tobago is one of the nesting sites of these magnifi- in our oceans: the Leatherback. the been for probably thousands of years. Every year cent creatures, and it has lay spot where they were born and lay their eggs (they females return to the same every two to three years). MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 energies withpleasurablediversions. the dailystressesofcruisinglifeandrenew your carry youwhereitmay.Giveyourselfabreakfrom month. Beself-indulgentandjustletthecurrent the end. ness areanextmonthsoitwillallbalanceoutin powering, youwillhavefreshwindsinthebusi- love life.Thoughyoumayfeelthatromanceisover- of thefullmoon. Let inspirationguideyourcoursearoundthetime moon onthe17th. They willfadeintoadimmemoryaroundthefull and furiousbutwillthinoutasthedayspass. racing crew. a positiveoutcomewithyourcruisingpartneror full moon.Keepyourstingersheathedifyouwant and unfathomablesilenceswillculminateonthe rethink yourpriorities. co-captain feelingleftout.It’sagoodtimeto tion outsideofthemaincabincouldleaveyour attention. Trytorememberthattoomuchatten- madcap loveaffairlateinthemonth. will befurtherstimulatedbythepossibilityofa flow. love sailingintoport.Justrelaxandgowiththe romantic inclinationsandthepossibilityoftrue word needstobelaw. agreements abound,sodecidewhenacaptain’s pals maybefrustrating.Pettyargumentsanddis- pay offinduecourse. firm handonthehelmofthisinfluenceanditwill things willreallyheatup. cially onthe17thduringfullmoon,when inspiration tothemix.Haveagreattime,espe- of thesunsailingintoyoursignwilladdcreative the senses. business stayinitssailbagandindulgeyourself www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: You mayfeelnofairwindonanycoursethis You willstillbejugglingyourbusinesswith Concentrate yourenergiesoncreativemuse. The arrowsofromancestartthemonthflyingfast Line squallsofarguments,misunderstandings Once againboatbusinessisthefocusofyour Hello, Sailor!Creativejuiceswillbeflowingand Your cruisingcreativitywillbedivertedby Relationship difficultiesamongcreworcruising Boat businessaspectsarestillpositive,sokeepa This isatimeforromanceyou.Theinfluence Romance willhogyourhelmthismonth.Letboat SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER MAY 2011 AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

Compass CruisingCrossword 37) A10Acrossbitewill____ atthetopofthis 36) A28Acrossmight25 35) Uninvitedpicnicguests? andhats 34) Plantfiberusedtomakebaskets ifyouleavethehatch____ 32) 2Acrossand22cancomein 31) ‘Catch__catchcan’ 28) Largefish-eatingseabird 26) Mangoes,papayas,bananas,etcetera 25) Don’tlet22Across____onyourfood 23) Squirmylawnpests areall_____ 22) 12Across,26Acrossandhorse 21) TheCaribbeanisone 18) Sometypesof28Acrosshave____feet orsleeper’sannoyance? 16) Nature’salarmclock 14) Thiscanbestandingorrunning 13) Distinctivesmell communicablediseases 12) Pest_____:hospitalforpersonswith 10) Pestthatfleesasinkingship 8) Breed 7) 2Acrosscanbreedina____ofwater 6) Temperaturemanyinsectsthrivein 2) Theeveningchoir? ACROSS ‘PESTS’ 33) 22Acrossare___-bornepests avisitby15Down 30) Whatyouneedtodothedeckafter inananchorage 29) A26Downspeed____canbeapest avesselmooredalongsidein____ 27) A10Acrossislikelytocomeaboard 26) A19Downshouldmove____ 24) Whatthismonthis 23) 9Downlovetoeatthis toanewlypaintedhull 22) 11Downisthe_____thingtoattach 20) Prefixmeaningtiny 19) Agoodship’scatisa______17) Subjectofthispuzzle 16) Chases10Across pooponyourdeck 15) Birdswhositinthe14Acrossand 11) Scrubthebottomtogetthisoff 9) Ship23Acrosses 6) Topof36Across 5) Takethehelm pests(abbrev.) 4) Agencythatprotectsusfromcertain 3) Employer,ofasort 2) Memberofthelargestmarinephylum areGermanandAmerican 1) Thetwomaintypesof16Across_____

DOWN Solution onpage30 MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

, so helpful d s n t la e tide tables

s o Unlike wind waves, IIsland . If the positions of the of the coastline and the profile of the sea floor affect the size of the tides. which are difficult to predict, the times of high and low tides on Earth can be calculated with some precision. This enables the publication of PPoets to sailors everywhere. — Answer on page 30 . The height and time of high spring tides neap tides ). This is low tide. There are two tides every — Nan Hatch see diagram Chipping our way to competition, Chipping our and glitter glisten, Sequins, beads for the road, Boots made specially the stage, we showed Took us across Our paces, drank our fill, And feted down the place until… cool Exhausted, weary we would friend’s pool, Ourselves down in some good Then ever-ready to collapse, las’ lap. We’d find ourselves at some it right, What saved us all, what made Was all this finished at midnight! next day, The long drive home, the work No sympathy for us, no way! change them Our Carnivals! I would not them…. If some great force could rearrange know… Perhaps next year you never I feel I could put on a show, glistening, Bedecked in feathers, glitter In retro Mas’ dancin’ and listening beat, To Sparrow’s tunes and Kitch’s Oblivious to age or heat, the road, Jiggling and wiggling down exposed, With drink in hand and boobs For that’s the fashion of the day, In dreams, that’s me. Awake? No way! My energy is now depleted, Its dying flame can’t be reheated. If criticism comes from me – Don’t mind, it’s only jealousy. When the Moon is overhead, gravitational forces pull on the water below it. The When the Moon is overhead, gravitational forces pull The Sun also pulls on Earth’s oceans but its effect is less because it is so much WORD PUZZLE Cross out the letters of the following words from the diagram on the left. COASTLINE, EARTH, FORCE, GRAVITY, HEIGHT, LUNAR, MOON, NEAP, PREDICT, SOLAR, SPRING, SUN, TIDE, WAVE tide may not be exactly the same at all points along a coastline. Both the shape water rises and there is high tide. There is also a high tide on the opposite side of water rises and there is high tide. There is also a high the Earth at the same time, caused by a rotational force as the Earth spins on its axis. The bulge of water on the two ‘sides’ means that there is a corresponding fall in water level in between ( 24 hours and 50 minutes. The extra minutes are accounted for by a time lag between the spinning of the Earth and the orbiting of the Moon. farther away. If the Sun, Earth and Moon are in line (at new moon and full moon), solar high tides and lunar high tides “add up” and cause an extra-high high tide and an extra-low low tide. These are called Sun, Earth and Moon form a right angle, the high solar tides coincide with the low lunar tides (and vice versa) so, at that point, the high tide is at its lowest and the low tide is at its highest. These are called Unscramble those letters remaining to find a topical word.

are used

[email protected] current and tide

. ly a l e o s ?

D e s h i t

e n i

m

s

a tidal waves

i

n

e

y

m

o

M

h

!

y

o

I remember sweet and clear I remember sweet of yesteryear. The Carnivals miss an ol’ mas’ fête, We could not as it could get! That got as rude rude, Till sad to say, they got too for good, And now it seems they’ve gone Replaced by ‘all inclusive’ nights, Jumpin’ wavin’ winin’ fights, money And boy, don’t talk about the Paid to see Machel — not funny! I can remember when the tents came and went, Were where our favourites Sparrow, Kitchener, Lord Funny, their money! Boy, those men were worth we knew We sang along with words grew, And our excitement grew and Till we were all set for Jou’vert, played Tired, but when the steel band and chip We’d find the strength to sway clip. On down the road, at a good then the ‘shush’ The sound, ‘ping pong’ and crush, Of slippers on the road, the The sharing of a rum or two you knew! And hugging up some guy Boy, oh boy! Those were the days, I’m glad that the Jou’vert still plays A strong part in the festival, A fine and fancy fête for all. Then Monday Mas’, slightly subdued, See that your cart has all the brews Make sure there’s ham and hops for all For the two days, then have a ball, Come Tuesday! We are on our way! Full costumes at the break of day,

l

l m

e by Elaine Ollivierre

d

H n a parlumps marooned . In many parts of the Caribbean, the terms MY CARNIVALS! DOLLY’S DEEP SECRETS R PVI LLSEE SIRAIECTSE GDOT AUT N ISATSNWEG U TRHEPONR MIEUANINC R ETOADAI V CFNOAOTGP RYHANHLMR The name ‘tidal wave’ is actually incorrect because tides do not make waves as We’ve looked at the formation of wind waves in the ocean. Are there any other Tides refer to the regular movement of the sea caused by the relative motion of

winds do. What used to be called a tidal wave is now more properly known as a kinds of waves? What about the Earth, Moon and Sun. High tide is when the sea comes far up the shore and low tide is when the sea is furthest out. Gravitational forces between the Earth and the Moon and between the Earth and the Sun are responsible for this rise and fall of sea water. tsunami interchangeably. However, in scientific terms, tides and currents are very differ- ent. Let’s look at tides in more detail. ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2011 © 2011 OLLIVIERRE ELAINE MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 couple ofirreverentpassagesandincessantsex. those ofpioussensibilitieswhowillbeoffendedbyitsrawJamaicanvernacular,a “words, wordsandmorewords”. ing underthewindowsillofschoolroomasnewteachertaughtherpupils ing aroundwiththeRastafariansonstreetcornersinOchoRios,butmost,bylurk- near thevillageofMoneagueinParishSt.Ann,Jamaica. Patriarch VerdureEmulative…”wholivedonadietofwildfruitinthewilderness Longshoreman TechnocracyPredominateInvolutedEnrapturedParliamentarian hair, unkemptwildlooks,andathousandothernames:“AloysiusGossamer Jamaican authortellsthestoryofAloysiusHobson,amadmanwithmatted,dirty ISBN 10:1-4050-6881-7. who isusuallyverysupportiveofhiswork,didnotlikethestory.HisJamaican response tothebookbyhisimmediatefamilywasdisappointing.HisAmericanwife, helped themgetthroughchemotherapyorendurepostoperativepain,theinitial cer patientswhotoldhimthatreadingthebookmadethemlaughsohardit has beenhismostsatisfyingworkintermsoffeedbackfromreaders,includingcan- Although Winklerhassaidintheintroductionto2006edition,that This side-splitting,artisticallydistillednarrativewilldelightmanyreaders,except And howdidAloysius,withlittleschooling,learnsomanywords?Somefromhang- Anthony C.Winklerhasscoredanoffbeatnovel,firstpublishedin1987.The The Lunatic BOOK REVIEWBYJ.WYNNER ortutoringprograms.Individualtailored programsasneeded • Fullfouryearprograms,single programs,onemonthbooster toeducationalguidanceandmaterials. travelers,oranyonedoinghomeschoolingwithlimitedaccess • Specialguidededucationprogramsforboatowners,cruisers, • Individualandgrouptutoring backwhilestudentsthatneedmoreattentionarenotleftbehind • IndividualizedStudentProgramssothatfasterstudentsarenotheld • UniversityandCollegePrep • FullHighSchoolGrades9,10,11&12 & C F www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone:(800)927-9503 ull

ll C Out ofOrder Hi OOLLEGE gh L T h L lyiswt iteshoiglans aywrs Some words? many so learn schooling little with Aloysius byAnthonyC.Winkler,MacmillanPublishersLimited,2006edition, SShSch HHE E E G Graduates receiveaUSDIPLOMA W ool E W [email protected] P l P GGr OORLD RREP ade R E d L P s9 D P P 9 ' S RROGRAM 10 F F O 11 IINEST G N R & E A S 12 T M H I H I N IIGH G T T H HHE S S E CCHOOL C C H AARIBBEAN O R O I L B

B The Lunatic E A N

most naturalthingintheworldtohave. Aloysius andtheplantanimallife,whichinthisnarrativeseemsasifit’s characters andtheirinteractionwitheachother,especiallytherapportbetween you needtoread the threeoffbeatcharacters.Believeme,plotisnotonlyelementtostory; a St.Annlandowner.” and charged“forbreakingentering,feloniousassaultattemptedmurderof time togetagun.Holdingthegunonthem,shecallspolice.Theyaretakenaway Service raiseshismachetetokillBusha.Aloysius’obstructiongivesBusha’swife pated andcatchthebanditsinact.Aloysiusthrowshimselfwaywhen the robberyisbotchedwhenBushaandhiswifereturnhomeearlierthanantici- Moneague hademptieditslunaticasylumtocomeandbowlagainsttheirteam!” heroes, butnotbeforetheopposingcaptain“rantedandravedatumpire. defeated theopposingvillageby20runswithBushaandAloysiusbeingtheirteam’s match, whichwasapersonalsuccessforbothBushaandAloysius.Theirteam date fortheSunday,dayaftervillagecricketmatch. eventually agreestotherobbery.Thebushlandtriostartsrehearsingandsets He pleadswithhernottoleave.breaksdownandconfesseshislovefor two ofthemplayedtogetheronthevillagecricketteam.” Aloysius hadworkedforBusha,livinginabackroomtheservants’quarters…The problem withBusha.They“wentbackalongway.Beforehisfirstboutofmadness, open Busha’shouseandstealhismoney.Aloysiusisnotinagreement.Hehasno them undertheflamehearttree,muchtodiscontentofAloysiusandtree. animal, comparinghimtoasculptoratwork.Sheinvitescomeandlivewith Service carriesouthisjob.Ingaisimpressedwiththewayslaughters Service, abutcherwhohasbeenhiredtoslaughtergoat.Theystoplookonas long walksexploringthecountryside.Duringoneoftheirtheycomeacross accord: “Whataoutoforderwoman!” takes placewitheventhebusheschimingin.BothandAloysiusarein awakes andfindsoutwhyshe’stakingpicturesofhim,someveryamusingdialogue where Aloysiusisfastasleep.Sheseeshimandtrainshercameraonhim.Whenhe person ofInga,aGermantourist.She’stakingpicturesbirdsinthebushland woman wasrudeandoutoforder!” Aloysius coversthepuddlemadebywomanwithstonesanddirt,fretting,“De even asthewomanpicksupherbasketandcontinuesalongcountryroad begins toemptyherbladderfromanuprightposition. puts downherbasket,looksaroundfurtively,liftsdress,dropspantiesand lage womancomingoutofthebushwithabasketyamsonwaytomarket.She road. Hehearsanoiseandducksbehindcut-stonewallfromwhereheseesvil- dence coursefromanAmericanseminary”. human. Thereisalsoapreaching“bushthatclaimedtohavetakencorrespon- vicinity thereisaprofanemangotreewhichbeltsoutJamaicancusswordslikeany bushes personalitiesalloftheirown. used theseaandsharkascharacters;in human, animalandplantlifepresentsawonderfulread.In animals inthefield,andtreesbushes.Theauthor’sdepictionofhischaracters, who ispreoccupiedwiththelocationofhisfinalrestingplace. lieving butcherwhoproclaims,“MyGodismud”;andBusha,therichlandowner woman, Inga,whotellsAloysiusthatshewasacowinanotherlife;Servicetheunbe- character in the page,andprosconsaboutbook,Winklerhascreatedanendearing stupid book?” mother’s reactionwas,“Whatafool-foolbook!...Tony,youdon’tseewrite To learntheoutcomeofcase,getacopy The followingafternoon,Inga,AloysiusandServicebreakintoBusha’shome.But “The sidelinesoftheplayingfieldswerethickwithspectators”forcricket Inga tellsAloysiusifshedoesnotgetmoneywouldhavetogobackGermany. Eventually, Inga’sfatherstopssendinghermoneyandshehatchesaplantobreak Inga remainsinthebushwithAloysiusandsoontwobecomelovers.Theytake Following thisepisode,Aloysiusencountersanother‘outoforder’womaninthe Offended, Aloysiusspringsoutfrombehindthewall.Wordsensuebetweentwo We firstmeetAloysiusdancingandprancingalongamountainouscountryside At nightAloysiussleepsunderaflamehearttreewhichishisspecialfriend.Inthe Since Aloysiusisshunnedbythevillagers,hiscommunicationmostlywith But regardlessofthelanguage,sex,ortalkaboutsexatalmosteveryturn The Lunatic The Lunatic . Thesupportingcharactersaretheunconventionalwhite toexperiencetheessenceofwritingand The Lunatic The Lunatic Winklerhasgiventhetreesand The PaintedCanoe andknowthefateof he MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 ,

FIGURE 4 The Why Book of Sailing New Services: AIR AMBULANCE

To Contemplate While Having Why do clocks go “clockwise”? An early timekeeping Quiz Question: Would such a stick have a clockwise Scott Welty is the author of NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW 2100 hours all month. No figure here… it looks like a 2100 hours all month. No figure here… it looks like a cross! For those of us who have traveled to the Caribbean from exotic climes such as Chicago, the first sighting of the Southern Cross lets you know that you have indeed sailed far from home. a Glass of Wine on Deck device was a simple stick stuck vertically into the ground. As the sun moves east to west through the sky, the shadow of the stick will move “clockwise” round the stick. This is why clocks have hands as well to simulate the shadow of the stick. turning shadow in Australia? Burford Books, ©2007. FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS

FIGURE 3 You notice M13 is located within the Hercules con- I always like to mention the Southern Cross (the Sky Events This Month Sky Events This moon and four planets 1st - Crescent 3rd - New Moon 17th - Full Moon moon and four planets 29th - Crescent and for May: Hercules Featured Constellations Hercules is Of the 88 agreed-upon constellations, interest in this column and elsewhere is the confirma- tion of extra solar planets. Eleven of the stars in Hercules are known to have planets circling them. Life? Who knows? stellation. M13 is one of the more famous globular star clusters. With a nice dark sky you should be able to make this out and with your Steiners even better. Let Hercules rise high in the sky, as viewing is better over- head owing to less atmosphere for the light to go through and less light pollution from shore. M13 is composed of more than 400,000 stars spread out over 140 light years of space. Originally discovered by Edmund Halley of comet fame it is a popular target for amateur astronomers. It was a target for the pros, too, when they sent a radio message toward M13 in 1974 from the giant radio dish in Arecibo, Puerto Rico just in case anyone there was listening. This was a big deal at the time and Carl Sagan was one of the people involved in deciding what the message should contain. Figure 4 shows the message that was sent as strings of 1’s and 0’s with such information as the numbers one through ten, things about our DNA, and the dimensions of the Arecibo dish. If anyone is going to answer it’s going to be a while as the cluster is about 25,000 light years away. That makes it a minimum of 50,000 years to get a reply! The other bad news is that in 25,000 years the cluster won’t be where we aimed the message! Incomplete pass, I guess. Oh well, it was really more of a demonstration of the capability of the new equipment at the time. Still, it’s fun to think that that message is still screaming across empty space now 37 light years away from Earth! smallest of all the constellations) in May. This is the best month to see it, as it will be due south around the Southern Cross find this month. Hercules the fifth largest and easy to the northeast around 2000 (Figure 3) will be rising in easy to spot with his hours all month. He’s pretty with arms and legs stick- characteristic trapezoid body swinging a club. Of recent ing out. His right arm is

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN

by Scott Welty

IN MAY THE SKY SKY THE EARTH - Left the dance alone. SATURN - Rising in the afternoon and setting in the If you watch day by day you’ll get a feel for the rela- Take a look at Figure 1 showing the eastern horizonTake a look at Figure 1 showing The Planets in May, 2011 JUPITER — Wow… Get MERCURY, VENUS, MARS, wee hours all month. Riding in Virgo. tive motions here. It’s not simple because everything is tive motions here. It’s not simple because everything is moving around the sun including us! There are sev- eral nice pairings of the planets all month long. counter-clockwise, the four planets are going to rise just before the sun. This will be a treat all month and the crescent moon joins the party on the 1st and the 29th. So get out of that bunk and make pot of coffee! at 0500 hours on May 12th. A nice clear horizon will help as usual. Figure 2 shows a view from space, high above the North Pole of the Earth. Since the Earth spins up! Look east! They’re all there! up! Look east! They’re all there! MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 much sugar, this is the bar for you. Eating the Nib-A-Licious is sort of like biting into much sugar,thisisthebarforyou.EatingNib-A-Licioussortoflikebitinginto is intenselyfruity,andifyouwanttheflavourofpure,richcocoaunadulteratedby one called“Nib-A-Licious,”a60-percentbarwithpiecesofcocoanibs.The82-percent have surpassedtheoriginaltwoinmyaffections—onethat’s82percentcocoa,and sures. TheGrenadaChocolateCompanyisnowproducingtwoadditionalbarsthat Chocolates, atBelmontEstate(atthenortheastendofGrenada)revealsnewplea- cruiser favourites.Butavisittothecompany’srecentlyopenedshop,Bonbon makers, andits60-percent71-percentdark-chocolatebarshavelongbeen established ofthenewbreedislandchocolate I’ve found: olate. HereismyChocoholic’sGuidetowhat I’m onthelookoutforgreatisland-madechoc- chocolate-craving cruiserswholiketo“buylocal”. being betterpaidfortheirbeans,andgoodnews cocoa grows:Goodnewsforfarmers,whoare Caribbean, makingfirst-ratechocolatewherethe neurs arenow“addingvalue”tothem aren’t merelyexportedanymore.Islandentrepre- gin” and“single-estate”chocolate.Andthebeans consumers buyintothetrendtowards“single-ori- world priceforfine-flavouredcocoabeansrisesand trees, arenowbeingbroughtbacktolifeasthe were leftderelictwithcocoapodsrottingonthe became uneconomicalduringthelastcentury,and the tongue. chocolate, atruffle,orbonbonslowlymeltingon fan), butit’sjustnotthesameasasilkenbarofdark made fromoneoftheseballs(truthbetold,I’mabig thing againstanicecupofWestIndiancocoatea and sticks,notmuchelse.NotthatIhaveany- that remainedbehindwereusedtomakecocoaballs ed andturnedintochocolateelsewhere;thebeans was imported.Island-growncocoabeanswereexport- in thelate’90s,allhigh-endchocolateforsale serotonin deservemoreresearchgrants.) disease-fighting antioxidantsandmood-elevating who discoveredcocoacontainsanti-agingandheart- as actuallybeinggoodforme.(Tomymind,thefolks every time.Ievenrationalizeit(asdowithredwine) for darkchocolatewithahighpercentageofcocoa W The GrenadaChocolateCompanyisthebest- Grenada’s BarsandBonbons Wherever weanchorourTartan42, Oh, howtimeshavechanged.Cocoaestatesthat When wefirstcruisedtheWindwardsandTrinidad do inapinch,butgivenchoice,I’llgo exception: I rather thanasweetperson—withone hen itcomestofood,I’masavoury

love chocolate.Anytypewill Receta in the the , A Chocoholic’s Guide tothe Windwards byAnnVanderhoof and T& sucked straightoffthebeans—andinHotelChocolat’sinventiveCacaoBellinis Right outofthepod,cocoabeansaresurroundedbyasweetwhitepulp.It’sdelicious

—Continuedonnextpage and othertropical-fruitcentres. ing itasaseasicknesspreventative)andfilledbonbonswithpassionfruit,guava, nuts andspicestoproducetreatssuchaschocolate-coveredginger(rationalizebuy- Grenadians combinetheGrenadaChocolateCompany’schocolatewithislandfruits, Philadelphia chocolatierEricChocolates(surelya ALL PHOTOS: STEVE MANLEY STEVE PHOTOS: ALL the newBonbonshop.Undertutelageof smooth, slightlysweetchocolatearoundthem. cocoa beans—contrastingbeautifullywiththe ness andcrunchofthenibs—crushedroasted a chocolate-coveredespressobean:theslightbitter- — called“wetcocoa”beforethey’reweighed from alocalfarmer’spulp-coveredbeans removing excessliquid,twigs,andotherdebris This workeratGrenada’sBelmontEstateis As thenamesuggests,you’llalsofindbonbonsin nom deguerre ), severalyoung MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 E E U R Q too quickly on our boat. I Construction will start soon The only bar available when 70-percent bar of “Island 70-percent bar of “Island Growers” dark chocolate — which I can tell you disappeared way But there was cocoa and choco- cocoa industry. Yes, it’s actuallycocoa industry. much more thana hotel, but it’s ago, Angus that. Five years Peter Harris, Thirlwell and founders of the beloved British chocolatier Hotel Chocolat, St.bought derelict Rabot Estate, (itLucia’s oldest cocoa estate dates from 1745), and began rehabilitating the cocoa groves and restoring the old estate theyhouse. They started what call an Engaged Ethics Cocoa St.Programme, signing on 112 guar- Lucian farmers so far and willanteeing that Hotel Chocolat pay- buy all the cocoa they grow, ing them 30 to 40 percent above their world market price for thembeans and guaranteeing days. payment within seven (They’re also offering technical cocoaassistance and subsidized tree seedlings.) on a chocolate factory; for now, the beans are shipped to Hotel Chocolat in the UK and trans- formed into chocolate there. we visited shortly after Hotel Chocolat’s St. Lucia opening this spring was a smooth, fruity O M T

T

S Your #1 Choice Choice Your #1 for Provisioning for Provisioning

in the Grenadines : 456 5230

S UUSTIQUE & 3pm to 6pm Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm Monday-Saturday: 8am to Vegetables & Choice Meats

FAX Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits,

Sunday & Public Holidays: 9am to 11am Sunday & Public Holidays: 9am to D

O St. Lucia’s Cocoa Cuisine St. Lucia’s Cocoa chocolate- old master of Windward Island Chocolate Company is the If the Grenada the cocoa harvest season, you’ll see farmers bringing their “wet cocoa” to the cocoa” to the bringing their “wet season, you’ll see farmers the cocoa harvest purchased. inspected, weighed, and fascinating to see it being estate, and it’s Soufriere, is the opened in March near St. Lucia’s Hotel Chocolat, which making, then once-flourishing to revitalize the island’s block — a bold initiative new kid on the (the Creole word for a tradi- late aplenty in the Hotel Chocolat restaurant, Boucan of “cacao cuisine”: some tional cocoa drying shed). The restaurant offers a menu gimmick — over the top, even form of cocoa in almost every dish. It sounded like a be completely delicious. for an inveterate chocolate lover — but it turned out to —Continued on page 45

OOODSTORE

F F

SS ‘‘ A

E

Left: At Belmont Estate, Grenada, visitors — schoolkids and adults alike — are given a chance to ‘walkLeft: At Belmont Estate, Grenada, visitors — schoolkids turns the beans so they dry evenly in the sun. the cocoa’. Done regularly throughout the day, this process Pitons and divine desserts such Right: Hotel Chocolat in St. Lucia serves up a view of the as homemade ice creams and dark chocolate mousse R : 452 6621 • 452 6620 • 488 8479 • 488 8634

PHONE

OOREA

C

M C Continued from previous page Continued from The Grenada Chocolate The Grenada Chocolate (Aside: If you’re sailing between (Aside: If you’re sailing between You can feel good about buy- If you’re lucky when you visit Bonbon, you’ll also find slices of a chocolate layer you’ll also find slices of a when you visit Bonbon, If you’re lucky

Company’s tiny candy-box of a factory in Hermitage, up the road from Belmont up the road from Belmont Company’s tiny candy-box of a factory in Hermitage, space isn’t good for fine Estate, doesn’t offer tours — a lot of people in a small readily — but you can see chocolate, which is very sensitive and picks up odours where cocoa is grown and the part of the beans-to-bar process at Belmont Estate, on a “buying day” during beans fermented and sun-dried. If you visit the estate Grenada and Carriacou, you may Grenada and Carriacou, you spot a 13-foot Hobie Cat bounc- ing over the waves, and you’ll likely say to yourself something along the lines of, “Who in their right mind would sail a 13-foot Hobie Cat from Grenada to Carriacou?” Here’s the answer: it’s the Grenada Chocolate Company’s Mott Green, deliver- ing chocolate bars to Grenada’s sister island. He even catches fish along the way. (When you’re in Carriacou, check for his bars at Patty’s Deli.) ing Grenada Chocolate. It’s It’s ing Grenada Chocolate. Mott completely organic, and and his partner Edmund Brown now (a third founding partner is farm- deceased) have given the main ers who supply their ingredient a real leg up: they’ve coop- created a cocoa farmers’ of erative, which owns a portion the company. cake. It’s baked in a solar oven and then sandwiched with homemade sorrel, golden sandwiched with homemade in a solar oven and then cake. It’s baked fruit jam, depend- apple, or other season. Grenada ing on the co-owner Chocolate Company the cake as Mott Green describes kind of like a science experiment bak- — it combines vinegar and your ing soda (remember from school days what happens?), light, which gives it a moist, fluffy texture. — a standout Rivers rum was, surprisingly, truffle filled with local The cocoa-dusted Rivers somehow undrinkable), high-octane (some, like me, would say — the harsh chocolate. combined with high-octane mellowed when MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialistbrokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloydsam business for47years.Ihavedevelopedarapport I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance e-mail: [email protected] “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood www.street-iolaire.com Myclaimssettlementrecord Insurance Marine cannot bematched. Dear S/V Coho Louise KupkaandGordonNicholl continue toreturn. years andnotbeenabletowriteourselves. put intowordswhatwehavefeltoverthepastfive ing overthesecurityissues,Elizabethhasbeenableto great foodandcultureexcursions.Withoutgloss- provides goodservices,tradespeople,friendlylocals, and veryaptreportonherfamily’sdaysinTrinidad. Compass education andempowermentofwomen is partofthe sends apositivesignal—handoffriendship. owners andothersinthecommunityduring ourvisit, his raft,andthatweallreachedoutto local business 15-year-old VincentianGeorgeSmalltohelp himrepair indeed liveuptoourexpectations. and communitiesaspotentialthieves, theymight walls andtreatthelocalswhoallowusin theirharbors ple oftheWindwards,butifwebuildpsychological the cockpit. were invitedaboardavisitingyachttoplayScrabblein issue). Ms.Kaakmayrecallthatthelocalteenagers article aboutChateaubelair,St.VincentintheJanuary agers onboard”(asmentionedinElizabethBrouse’s when shecondemned“thecouplewhohadthreeteen- issue’s Readers’Forumwas,Ibelieve,referringtous Dear the January2011issueof Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street because everyoneelsehasavoidedhim! available todoyourrepairworkmaybe find ayardthatisfullyinsured. cost ofdamage.Ifyourboatdoesnothaveinsurance, boat isinsured,theboat’sinsurancewillcover falling overinawindstorm?Ifso,fine.not,andyour damage causedbymistakeswhenchocking?Forboats ance, donothaul. insured andthehaulingfacilitydoesnothaveinsur- (“excess” onEuropeanpolicies).Ifyourboatisnot of theboatwillhavetopayinsurancedeductible arrangement hasbeenmadewiththeyard,owner damage incurredwhilehauling,BUTunlessan insured, theboat’sinsurancewillcovercostof If theyhaveinsurance,fine.not,andyourboatis insurance tocoverdamageboatstheyarehauling. haul, ascertainwhetherornotthehaulingfacilityhas do, theboatinslingsisdamaged.Sobeforeyou slings. Theyhavebeenknowntofailandwhenthey in theCaribbeanhavethistypeofliabilityinsurance. employees. However,veryfewindependentcontractors ity forworktheydoandalsoinsuranceinjurytotheir tractors willhaveinsurancepoliciescoveringbothliabil- start makingyourarrangements. ten andaskquestions,seehowthelandlies,then popular sailors’wateringholeatHappyHour.Sit,lis- your boat,spendfourorfiveeveningsatthemost commitments forhavingworkdone,haulingorstoring would liketomakeafewadditionalcomments. and maintenanceofayachtintheCaribbean,I Brouse forherarticle“ Trinidad bashing.IwouldliketothankElizabeth FFORUM RREADERS' All Imayaddis:aslongweareinthearea,will Not onlyisTrinidadahurricanehaven,also Only byexampledopeoplelead.Ifwe believe that That KirkBrouseandJimHutchinsworked with We cantalkaboutwantinggoodrelationswithpeo- Lynn Kaakof Frank Virgintinohaswrittenanexcellentarticlein Finally, rememberthatthepersonimmediately Similarly, doesthehaulingfacility’sinsurancecover Ultra-violet raysnotonlyruinsailsbutalsotravellift In NorthAmericaandEurope,mostindependentcon- When youarriveonanisland,beforemakeany Finally, abreathoffreshairafteralltheregular O E Compass Compass Compass R March2011,forhersuccinct,non-emotional A U D , , , Silverheels M E R Discovery S inherlettertheMarch Compass '

DiscoversTrinidad”, regardingrepair Dear St. Lucia John Kessell was cleaned! how longithadbeensincetheshipthiscameoff hauled outtheresomeyearsback.Ican’timagine floor ofthedrydockinFortdeFrancewhenIwas just waitingforanewhulltoshowup! ing someideaofthemarineorganismsfloatingaround, dark themostamazingphosphorescenttrailisleftgiv- ters. Whenyourunadinghyacrossthelagoonafter sauce inagallonofpainttotrystopthelittlecrit- local friendwhousedtomixabottleofsuperhot they alllastonlyaroundsixmonthsinthere.Ihavea marine growthonthehullsofyachtsisincredible! almost nocirculationinthelagoonandasresult that withatidalrangeofaroundtwofeetthereis practically impenetrablerockandgaveup.Thismeant tion, butwhentheystartedtodigfoundalayerof end (thesouthwestcorner)toprovidesomecircula- make thelagoonwastohaveanentranceatfar The originalplanwhentheydredgedthemangrovesto Lagoon atRodneyBay,St.Lucia,wherethemarinais. anchorage thatisterribleforbarnaclegrowththe barnacles inCartagenatheAprilissue,another Dear S/V BoldlyGo Ellen Birrell are smallgesturesonthatpath. teenaged girlsintothecockpitforagameofScrabble, with theChildren’sReadingClub,andinvitingthree then doingthingslikeCherylJohnsondoesinBequia formula forimprovingtheplightofdevelopingnations, never heardofanyonedoingsuchathingbefore. the cheapestrepairhecouldandaddedthathad owner thankedherandsaidhewouldendeavourtoget daughter thanifshehad“hitandrun”.Theothercar- cunious studentbutIwasmuchmoreproudofmy she admittedliability.Ihadtopayaswasanimpe- carpark. Shegotthestafftocallovertannoyand another carwhilemanoeveringinthesupermarket driving mycarbackinScotland,putascrape to liveorhavemychildrenbehave.Mydaughter, is goodinsuranceadvice,butitnotthewayIwant (see BusinessBriefsintheAprilissue).Nodoubtthis never toadmitliability—evenifweareinthewrong er andajointefforttostraightenpulpit, etcetera. the fashionofcruisingfraternity:acup ofteatogeth- sible boatsdenyingblame.Thingshavebeen settledin been partytodenyingresponsibilityorheard ofrespon- in mutualhelpandanewfriendacquired. NeverhaveI resulted inboat-to-boatcontactithasalways resulted cruiser worthhissalthasdragged.If this hasever of coursehavedraggedandbeen upon.Every ously intheNorthandSouthAtlanticfor 11yearsand damage toourboat. for thethreeorfourhours’restorationofcosmetic might addthatatnotimewerewethinkingofclaiming inspection) thattheotherboatswereundamaged.I responsibility, claiming(overtheVHF,andwithout and cometalkabouttheaffairbuthedeniedany still totallytangled.Wetriedtogethimre-anchor ed withthescubadiverstillinwaterandourselves get thethirdparty’schainroundhisbulbkeel. yacht hadmanaged,aswellpickingupourchain,to extricating thetangledchains.Thisisbecauselarge donning scubagearandspendingperhaps15minutes and lotsofhelpincludingtheownerthirdparty eral hourssortingoutthemesswithnorecrimination dragged usontoanotherboat.Wespentthenextsev- captain thentriedtomotoroffandunfortunately and betweenuswegottheyachtonourportside.The The wifeapologizedmostsincerelyfordraggingontous onto ourboatandT-bonedbowat0430hours. this kindofinsuranceadvice.Alargeyachtdragged my wifeandIhaverecentlybeenthevictimofpossibly Below isaphotoofbarnacleIpickedupfromthe I haveusedthemostmodernantifoulingpaintsand Following onAnnWestergard’sexcellentarticle Why Iamwritingforthefirsttimeto What asadpasswe’vecometowhenweareadvised Is thisthenewway?Wehavebeencruisingcontinu- To ouramazementthelargeyacht,oncefree,depart- Compass Compass, , —Continued onnextpage Compass is that isthat MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA . for for and and Septima S/V Lala Septima with the dinghy with the dinghy and determine what had Septima loop. And we would probably Septima but could not identify her lights. I only suffered minor damage on the a boat passed by and shouted into a boat passed by and shouted another . PM and cruising kids, Septima Septima Septima . We turned on our light and dinghied over to . We turned on our light and tied up to a catamaran with the bow line that Compass In the evening we were invited to dinner on another In the evening we were invited At about 9:00 When we approached, a boat boy was quick to offer a boat boy was quick When we approached, A friendly neighbour came up to me on Editor’s note: This is a good opportunity for a remind- She was eventually taken back to the mooring in the In the morning, in daylight, we could snorkel and Guess whether we choose mooring or anchoring next I am 12 years old and I’m living aboard Luckily, Frayed mooring ropes led to frayed nerves. ‘Guess whether we choose mooring or anchoring next time!’ loaded with fresh vegetables, beers, etcetera. Everything vegetables, beers, etcetera. loaded with fresh seemed fine. 100 metres away from Swedish boat moored about Septima a nice evening together. It our friends in the dark for around us in the darkness was hard to see the boats by their lights. but could distinguish them We felt safe with a bow line from the starboard cleat to a bow line from the starboard We felt safe with We paid him back to the port cleat. the mooring and for some took the dinghy ashore EC$65 and then lunch in the internet. We had a good shopping and back to village and went mooring to be safe! mooring to be line, pulled it we accepted. He took our a mooring and to in the mooring and back through a loop looked for the wind something about a boat on the reef. We the wind something about three years. I am currently in Le Marin, Martinique and attending school at Collège Gérard Café. I would just like to tell other cruising kids that it’s not so bad! I mean, sure, they’ll laugh at your accent sometimes. But it’s natural for them to laugh! At school here you don’t bring “packed lunches” but you get a good hot meal (salad, main course and dessert). If you live close by, you can go home for lunch. The teachers are all nice (except for the biology teacher :) ). And to be really popular you can say that you’ve been to Miami. You’ll make friends fast, like I did with my best friend, Marie Josephe. But before going to school I recommend learning the language (Rosetta Stone is the best). Thank you, Readers, Lala S/V Lala —Continued on next page jumped into the dinghy and sped in her direction. Not jumped into the dinghy and sped in her direction. Not there! I turned the dinghy to leeward and found Septima had earlier been attached to the mooring now hanging, undamaged, under the bow. also lower an anchor with sufficient chain in case the mooring gives up. Claes Tornberg S/Y Septima er that, whenever possible, it’s prudent to dive on unfa- miliar moorings to inspect their condition. Dear told how he had seen her drifting, hitting a moored told how he had seen her drifting, hitting a moored wreck, and finally stranding on the reef. He had called for help at the Anchorage Yacht Club and some young men had pulled her off the reef and tied her to the catamaran. dark and we secured her with two lines to the mooring and dropped our anchor as well. check out damage on teak rail, the port sidelight torn away and some scratches on the keel. time we’re in Clifton! Only if there is limited space for anchoring would we consider a mooring. If so, we will definitely make sure the line through a loop is returned to the same cleat to minimize any relative movement between line and loop. We will also secure with a sec- ond line through happened with the mooring. This had a number of happened with the mooring. This had a number of loops and some loose ends, which seemed to have been earlier loops now broken. One of them had a “fresh” fractured loop which was probably the one used by , , a , so Ventoso , a steel entoso Septima Ventoso . I have to say it’s still a brilliant Boon floated! Readers, , Helen and I will be sailing back to the UK next . She was in a very sad way, I made a very low . She was in a very sad way, Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from We came from Chatham Bay with our Gloria Be suspicious about moorings in Clifton, Union Island! We have been staying in Tyrell Bay ever since. I love From Union we went to Carriacou’s Tyrrel Bay, I was not terribly impressed with St. Lucia: Customs That is just what happened, and on January 6th, That is just what happened, I hope not! had an to report that we have since I am happy the ferro schooner Almost two years ago I bought We had a bad experience. This is what happened. even this dark episode has a silver lining. month, so I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the wonderful people we have met and be sure that I will rave about how good the area is to my friends back home. Some years ago my father, Trevor Liberson, and my stepmother, Ley Liberson, used to sail around here aboard their cruising ground and I will miss it very much while I am away, but hope that won’t be too long! Kind regards, Max Liberson Schooner Gloria Dear Hallberg Rassy 382, in strong headwinds (as usual here) and motored into Clifton. The week before we had some trouble in Clifton with our anchor and we drifted into the channel between the reefs, so we thought this time we should spend some dollars on a and got tangled up with their anchor and then both yachts dragged onto my bow! I had 45-footer, on the port side and the Sun Odyssey 54 on my starboard bow, and only my anchors were holding; fortunately I had set two. After four hours’ work, including a fair bit of underwater scuba time, we got free. Although the Sun Odyssey’s owner denied there was any damage done and did a runner, we have now made good friends with Janet and John of V the place: it’s exactly what I thought the Caribbean the place: it’s exactly what I thought the Caribbean would be like, with friendly people, tropical and unspoilt. The only bad moment came when a Sun Odyssey 54 dragged her anchor at 0400 on a dark and blustery morning, dragged into another yacht, where we met a wonderful man called Jerry Stewart where we met a wonderful man called Jerry Stewart who runs the haul-out there. He did not have a dinghy he could sell me, and the ones in the catalogue were I far too expensive, but he lent me a bit of space and built one myself. While I was doing that I met several of the local shipwrights; it really was an honour to have their friendship and advice. Once the dinghy was completed (in a week), the shipwrights insisted we had a proper West Indian launching. I thought there was some leg-pulling going on at first, but then I got it: boats are so important to these people that even a dinghy got to get blessed! So we had a little party, and to my relief were bad tempered at Rodney Bay, and the marina were bad tempered at Rodney Bay, and the marina could have been in Europe. My girlfriend, Helen, rejoined the boat at Vieux Fort, where Customs were a lot friendlier, and we cleared out. We sailed over to Bequia, where the engine died completely. Ed was meeting another boatload of friends at Bequia and then going back to the UK, so we sadly said good-bye to him and went off to Mayreau. We stopped at the lovely Salt Whistle Bay, more like the Caribbean I was looking for! But it did get crowded. Our inflatable din- ghy started giving big trouble then, and I had to pump it up each time we used it. So we went to Union Island, and anchored at Frigate Island so we were close to Ashton. There I tried to get the local boatbuilders to build me a hard dinghy, but after a week I concluded they wanted too much money and too much time. We made great friends there in the shape of a German couple who had sailed a Folkboat across the Atlantic, and Christine and Duff who own and run a huge char- ter yacht. We all became good pals and spent several happy evenings together — what a mix! 2011 we made St. Lucia. “unreserved apology” from the owner of the large boat. from the owner of the “unreserved apology” spirit lives on! Perhaps the cruising Yours sincerely, John Quin Dear Gloria I was at that point thinking offer, and it was accepted. her up and replacing “houseboat”. But after cleaning a new one, and re-step- the old rotten coach roof with to look like a boat that ping the masts, she started attempting to earn a living could go places! I was then delivery, doing yacht by doing the occasional yacht sail training from time to maintenance and a bit of with a gentleman called time. I had some dealings many years was the head Edmund Whelan, who for Association. On his barrister at the Royal Yachting training and that’s where I retirement he took up sail RYA Cruising Instructor met him: we were on the about the schooner, and he course together. I told him to the Caribbean. And so suggested we take it across get it to the Canaries, he a plan was hatched: if I could would meet me there. — million-dollarof the ubiquitous, gleaming Is the advent all this? yacht changing MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 issue of Dear Samadhi Frank Pearce about anamazingandinspirationalwoman. for charity,andhaswrittenfivebooks.HaveasearchonGoogletofindoutmore stern youwillseeinsmallletterstherealname, Queen boat thatshenowis.SoifyouareinAntiguaandseethecatamaran large dieselenginesandproperawningsmadeherintotheexcellentdaycharter in Crabb’sBoatyardatParham,toprepareherfordaycharterwork.Heinstalledtwo the boatwasinAntigualaidupashore,probablyabout1993. Whitbread AroundtheWorldRace,butplanshadbeenshelved.NexttimeIsaw Islands, andheardthatshehadbeenbuiltforRosieSwaletotakepartinthe “dyed inthewool”old-fashionedprincipleswouldnot. — whichgoestoshowhowenthusiasmanddeterminationcansucceedwheremy birth tochildrenontheway,oneresultofwhichwasherbook I could. I leftthemtocompletetheirpreparations,nodoubthavingadvisedasbest Med, hopingthatperhapstheywouldlikeitthereandstay.Afteracoupleofdays to recallthatIsuggestedtheygodownthroughtheFrenchcanalsystem yacht; formesomethinglikea45-footColinArcherdesignwouldfitthebill.Iseem a floodofprotestfrommultihullenthusiasts)—shewasnotmyideatheperfect tainly inthosedays,whenmultihullyachtswerehardlyproven(I’llbetthatbrings Bill O’Briandesign,Idon’tthinkhehadinmindaworld-girdlingyachtand—cer- trip aroundtheworld.Ifoundmyselfinabitofquandary.Withallrespectto know nothingaboutsailing,buttheywerefullofenthusiasmtheirproposed away! (Withher,nothim,ofcourse.) quiet intellectualman,Rosiearavishinglyattractiveballoffire.Ifellinlovestraight give themsomeinstruction. apparently hadlittleknowledgeofsailing.HeaskedmetocomeoverfromPooleand new catamarantoacouplewhointendedsailheraroundtheworld,yetthey Southampton-based builderanddesignerofthe36-footBOBCat.Hewassellinga as onecanaccumulatein25years. Examiner, withnopaperworkatall,really,butasmuch“handson”experience “Yacht DeliveryContractor”.ThiswaswaybeforemytimeasanRYAInstructor/ and fairplay. may bewithheldfromprintatyourrequest.Letterseditedforlength,clarity plaints. (Kudosareokay!)Wedonotpublishanonymousletters;however,yourname contact you(preferablybye-mail)ifclarificationisrequired. Dear — Rosie hasgoneontohavefurtheradventures,includingrunningaroundtheworld The newownersengagedPeterSmith,arenownedshipwrightwhowasthenbased Some yearslaterIsaw Against allodds,theydidgoontocompletethecircumnavigation,Rosiegiving Taking themsailingoutofSouthamptonWaterIrealizedthattheyactuallydid I dulyarrivedinWoolstonandmetthecouple,RosieRobinSwale:a Out oftheblue,IhadaphonecallfromratherworriedBillO’Brian, Back inthelate1960s,beingoutofworkEngland,Ihadsetmyselfupasa St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia VC0400 Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsorregattaresultscom- Be suretoincludeyourname,boatnameorshoresideaddress,andawaywecan We wanttohearfromYOU! Thank youSeanFullerforyourinterestingarticleabout Continued frompreviouspage C&BSuperette HorizonYachtCharters Bobby’s NannyCayResort Supermarket RiteWayProspectReef Tortola MarineManagement(TMM) BVIYachtClub Conch Charters The VillageCayMarinaOffice Ample Pub Hamper GoldenHindsChandlery ROAD TOWN TheMoorings HodgesCreekMarina PORT PURCELL/PASEA TrellisBayMarket DeLooseMongoose Aragorn Studio EAST END: TORTOLA in the Ahoy, bold Virgin Trader BVI YachtSales Doyle Sailmakers(BVILTD) Parts &Power Compass Compass with“CaribbeanCruises”paintedonthetopsides,lookcloselyand Caribbean Compass Compass ): Compass , Readers PICK UP! . Ihavealittletoadd. Readers!WhenintheBVI,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof , Granary Loafer atanyoftheselocations(ouradvertisersinthisissue onthehardinSt.Helier,Jersey,Channel BitterEndYachtClub VIRGIN GORDA Sebastian’s OntheBeach D’BestCup LITTLE APPLEBAY AmpleHamper SOPER’S HOLE BigBen’sMarket Jolly Roger’s WEST END Virgin GordaYachtHarbor Granary Loafer Granary Loafer Children ofCapeHorn . in theApril Caribbean

don’t likemypowerboatbeinghere,feelfreetoleave!” Trinidad andabroad,Ihavechangedthisattitudetomycurrentopinionof“If you the pastfewyears,becauseofattitudeandactionsayachties,both in as welltheprotectionandsafetyofALLboatersinsurroundingregions. the settingupofanAuxiliaryCoastGuardforbettermentallboatinginT&T Trinidad boatsalsodonatedcashonthespot. once againdonatedalltheprizemoneyandprizestoreliefeffort,several damaged St.Lucia,theTTGFAmemberstakingpartinLuciatournament money wasdonatedtotheGrenadareliefeffort.Lastyear,afterHurricaneTomas that year’stournamentsoALLthesponsorshipfunding,entrancefeesandprize trips toGrenadawithaid.TheTrinidad&TobagoGameFishingAssociationarranged there werenothanksgiven. in astorm.Yetwiththelatter,eventhoughtherewereseveralotheryachtiesaround, when ayachtwasbecalmedoffCanningsPointincurrent,andonceScotland Bay ever, toleratetheyachtiesmonopolizingchannel68foranhourormoreeachday. if hewantedquiet,shouldhaveturneditoff.WepowerboatersinTrinidad,how- 68 at6:30inthemorning.AsItoldhim,Channelisapublichailingchannel,and bally abusedontheairbyanAmericanyachtieinGrenadaforbeingVHFchannel lesser oftheevils. I haveaholdingtanktoprotecttheenvironment.thinkthatmygeneratoris ing abigwhitebottomhangingoverthesideofyacht“doingtheirnumbers”while We havealsobeenverballyabused. do notturnoffourgeneratorswewillhaveanchorropecutorboatholed. my friendsandIhavebeenopenlythreatenedbyyachties(mostlyFrench)thatifwe modern conveniences,that’snotmyproblem.Whycan’tIusethem?Yetseveralof heater, watermaker,electricstove,etcetera,etcetera.Ifyachtiesdonotwantthese trippers andcharterboatscontribute?NOTHING. so surelywehavealsoearnedtherighttobeinSaltwhistleBay.Whatdoday- school atMayreau,andeverytripwedonateschoolbooks,textbookssupplies, eral powerboats,namely power boatersalsopatronizethebarandrestaurant.Theownerscrewsofsev- eign yachtsanchoredinthebay,onlyoneofferedtobrieflyhelpus. rather thandisposingofthemproperly.Furthermore,outthesevenoreightfor- ingly residentthereforyears,werehappilyputtinggarbagebagsdeepinthebush the rubbish.Duringthisexercise,wediscoveredthatseveralforeignyachties,seem- yachtie) completelycleaneduptheScotlandBayarea,arrangingabargetoremove Minister’s Clean-UpCampaign,fiveofuspowerboaters(accompaniedbyonelocal our boatsaretiedto,andcollectseveralgarbagebagsofrubbish.DuringthePrime paying localtaxes. what? Sodowe.Andfurthermore,wearelocalboats,employingpeopleand they arehostiletousandtheirattitudeisthathavearightbethere.Guess mally anchor,andwhenaskedtosecuretheirsternsothatwecanallsharethearea, on severaloccasions,foreignyachtiesanchorrightinthemiddleofwherewenor- the weekend,raftingupalonginnerwesternshore.ItannoysmethatIhavehad, anchor safely. a swingdiameterofmorethan140feet.Inthisspacetenpowerboatscan related tome. ion thatGoddecreedtheCaribbeanbelongstothemalone. is thatpowerboatshavegenerators.Thethird(some)yachtiestheopin- power boatersanchorbowandstern,whilesailboatsswinginthewind.Thesecond boaters ingeneral. the seeminglyinsurmountableriftbetweensailing“yachties”andpower prompted metorespond,notonlyaboutSaltwhistleBayinparticular,but power boaters,featuredintheJanuaryissueof Dear I havealwaysinthepasthadattitudeofliveandletlive.Unfortunately,over The powerboatsinTrinidadareactivelyco-operatingwiththeT&TCoastGuard in After HurricaneIvanhitGrenadain2004,Trinidadpowerboatsmadehundreds of Let’s talkaboutwhatthepowerboatshavecontributedinadditiontoabove. On twooccasions,Ihavepersonallysavedasailingyachtfromdestruction.Once In Augustlastyear,severalofusreturningfromGrenadatoTrinidadwerever- While mostyachtiesdon’tlikeustouseourgenerators,Itakegreatoffenceinsee- I purchasedaboatthathasallthecomfortsdesire:airconditioning,water Let’s discussourgenerators. It’s truethatpowerboatersanchorbowandsternclosetotheshore.However, Let’s gobacktoSaltwhistleBayintheGrenadines. Almost everyweekinScotlandBay,we,thepowerboaters,cleanupareathat At home(Trinidad)almosteveryweekend,powerboatsanchorinScotlandBayfor Firstly, ontheissueofanchorage,a30-footyachtwith40feetanchorchainhas I canonlyspeakasapowerboaterandgivemypersonalexperiences,those There arethreemaindifferencesbetweenyachtiesandpowerboaters.Oneisthat I havereadwithinterestLiesbetCollaert’sarticleaboutSaltwhistleBayand Trinidad Stuart Dalgliesh Compass , Finesse, Sirena,JordieIII the Month Letter of andothers,haveadoptedthe Caribbean Compass . Thishas MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 50’ Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ 2007 73’ Executive $250,000.00 Freshwater boat 46’ 2001 Sea Ray Sundancer, 46’ 2001 Sea Ray Sundancer, $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’

2008 50’ Lagoon 2008 50’

1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-4803 Fax: (340) 779-4803 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Compass Point 40’ 1982 Marine condition $64,900.00 ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. Trader Pilothouse, excellent Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete business separate 36’ 1980 Albin Stratus, daysail 38, classic, excellent cond. 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast excellent cond. 44’ 1988 Morgan Catalina, excellent cruiser 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, $80,000 liveaboard, needs engs. 37’ 1986 CML Trawler, Great roomy, cockpit 38’ 1977 Chris-Craft Corinthian, $45,000 classic, CG cert. 42’ 1971 Grand Banks, Wooden 450 Cats, 3 strms 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY, $20,000 $325,000 $119,000 $89,900 $30,000 $295,000 went to press — but plans change, Compass CALENDAR to [email protected] and contact information of the organizing body All information was correct to the best of our knowledge so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Highland Spring HIHO 2011, BVI (windsurf and SUP). http://go-hiho.com please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name Bonaire Heineken Jazz Festival 2011. www.bonairejazz.com Jazz on the Pier, Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio, Jamaica. Freelander Guadeloupe. www.landroverfishingfestival.com Fishing Festival, Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico. Fundraiser Yacht Race, Isleta www.facebook.com/marinabasdufort Guadeloupe Nautical Days. Lowell Wheatley Anegada Pursuit Race & Cruise. www.rbviyc.org Scientific Association of Marine Laboratories of the Caribbean 35th Les Saintes Regatta. www.triskellcup.com www.caribbeancompass.com at the time this issue of Antigua & Barbuda Sport Fishing Tournament. St. Maarten. www.smyc.com Caribbean Laser Championships, Grenadines Petite Martinique Whit Monday Regatta, Barbados International J/24 Open Championships. www.sailbarbados.com www.sunfishclass.org Sunfish World Championship, Curaçao. Ocho Rios. www.ochoriosjazz.com Jamaica International Jazz Festival, Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI. www.styc.net Scotiabank International Optimist Marlow One Design Championship, St. Maarten. www.smyc.com Offshore Regatta, St. Maarten to Statia/Nevis. www.smyc.com Fishermen’s Festival, Charlotteville, Tobago Gay Rum Barbados Regatta. www.sailbarbados.com Mount Boat Show, St. Martin Metimer Oliver’s Regatta, St. Martin. www.coyc-sxm.com Captain Underwater Carnival. www.tobagounderwatercarnival.com Tobago BVI Poker Run. www.pokerrunbvi.com Martinique to St. Lucia Race. [email protected] Quantum IC24 International Regatta, BVI. www.rbviyc.org Morro Castle Race, Havana, Cuba. [email protected] Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta, Jost Van Dyke, BVI. Puerto Rico Vela Cup. www.puertoricovelacup.com Billfish Tournament, Havana, Cuba. Ernest Hemingway International Canouan Regatta, Grenadines St. Barth Theatre Festival. www.festivaldetheatredesaintbarthelemy.com Race, Marin, Martinique. Combat des Cocques Grenada Drum Festival. www.grenadagrenadines.com Anguilla Sailing Festival. www.anguillaregatta.com [email protected] Commodore’s Cup, St. John, USVI. FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Feeder Race, St. Lucia to Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta. www.stluciayachtclub.com St. Lucia Optimist & Laser Championships. Public holiday in Bonaire (Pentecost) MOON Public holiday in many places (Whit Monday) FULL Public holiday in the BVI, Montserrat and some other places Solstice Summer Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Labour Day) Fête de la Musique, Martinique. www.fete-musique.net Public holiday in many places (Corpus Christi) Fisherman’s Birthday. Celebrations in many fishing villages FULL MOON FULL Public holiday in the Cayman Islands (Discovery Day) Day) Public holiday in Haiti (Flag St. Croix Reef Jam. www.ReefJam.com (Indian Arrival Day), Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, some places (Ascension Day) Public holiday in the Bahamas (Labour Day) Public holiday in World Environment Day www.carib1500.com Start of Atlantic Cup Rally, Tortola to Virginia. Montserrat Local Fishing Tournament, Public holiday in many places (Labour Day celebrated) to Portugal. www.worldcruising.com/arceurope Start of ARC Europe, Tortola Public holiday in some places (Armistice Day) 2 2 – 4 JUNE www.clubnautiquedumarin.com 2 – 5 3 5 6 – 11 www.hemingwaycuba.com/hemingway-fishing-tournament.html 9 – 13 10 – 13 www.antiguabarbudasportfishing.com 11 11 – 12 11 – 12 11 – 12 12 12 – 19 12 – 19 13 13 15 17 www.errolflynnmarina.com (UK Queen’s Birthday celebrated) 18 – 19 18 – 19 19 21 21 23 24 – 26 25 – 26 26 – 3 July 29 1 1 2 3 – 7 3 – 15 6 – 8 7 7 - 8 7 – 9 8 12 – 15 14 14 - 15 14 – 15 14 – 15 Contact Rey Gandarillas (305) 726-5397 14 – 15 14 - 15 16 16 – 21 17 18 18 - 20 21 – 22 23 – 27 www.amlc-carib.org 27 - 29 Jose, Costa Rica. All Professional Environmental and Meeting, San www.foxysbar.com/woodenRegatta.html and Resource Managers welcome to attend. Marine Scientists 27 - 29 27 – 29 28 – 29 29 30 TBA www.stluciayachtclub.com Day) and Haiti (Mother’s Day) Anguilla (Anguilla MAY MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHESTOOLS Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, • CLEANING SUPPLIES • TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD YACHT SERVICES Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat, MID ATLANTIC St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Antifouling, Thinners EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA appointed agents in appointed agentsin

[email protected] • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES KERRY’S MARINESERVICES (784) 4573856•Cell: (784)4952272•VHF68 Stocked withlotsofmarinehardware, McCOY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT M PPiper MarineStore MARINE SERVICE Quality Services&theBestPrices LULLEY‘S TACKLEL SHOP E-mail: [email protected] S SNORKELING &SCUBADIVINGGEAR bilge pumps, varnish&much more. c ULLE EMAIL: [email protected] TEL: (784)458-3420/485-6255T i N COY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT EL: (784)458-3420/485-6255 Bequia - Port Elizabeth Port - Bequia p O filters, nuts & bolts, impellers,

FUEL ICE WATER FRONT ST,BEQUIAISLANDST RKELIN e E-mail: [email protected] E PHONE: 1(784)5328006 Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 Tel: (784)530-8123/570-7612 # 1CHOICEINFISHING& -mail: [email protected] r KINGFISHER intheCaribbean FAX: (784)458-3797 FAX: YY‘ CH

Rigging, Lifelines UNION ISLAND U ‘ M S VHF68“KMS” Mooringsavailable • Refrigeration • Welding/Electrical • Diesel/Outboardrepair Mechanical Service G NI OIC

( & 784 O T a ,

SCU E I N I BEQUIA ISLAND AC Marine/Land r ) 458-379 N F S K i BA DIVIN LAND LE n ISH

•MOORINGS e S ING • GARBAGE HO 7

DISPOSAL S • WATER & G m t

G FUEL • o EA r R P e continuedonnextpage CARRIACOU REALESTATE

NEW Property ManagementonCarriacou & enjoy a light lunch and cocktail or a BBQ at night. & enjoyalightlunchandcocktailorBBQ atnight. Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] oroffthepremises ortakeaway. Try ourSmoothies! Enjoy ourpopularBaguetteSandwichesmadetoorder on Steaks, Baguettesbaked freshly every day. Seafood, Shrimp, Prawns, smoked &fresh Salmon, Fish, Lamb, Cheese, Cream, Juices etc. Great selectionofColdMeats, Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto, We are alsosituatedinCalliaqua, St. Vincent 4562987 Pull up your dinghy on the sand right next to it upyourdinghyonthesandrightnexttoit Pull Call uson toyouryacht service VHF forourdelivery The Pink & Blue Place on Hillsborough Beach. The Pink&BluePlaceonHillsboroughBeach. for Restaurants, Hotels, Villas orsimply toenjoy athome. e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& MARKET PLACEAD Provisioning for Yacht Charters, largeorsmallorders or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite:

Beach Bar&Bistro on Carriacou! Carriacou RealEstateLtd Experience our friendly service asalways!Experience ourfriendlyservice THIS COULDBE Hillsborough, Carriacou Land andhousesforsale YOUR Danish chefinthehouse! www.carriacou.net Tel (473)410-4216 Situatedjustbelow Coco’s Restaurant Tel: 4583485• VHF 68 frozen &cannedfoods

Specialisinginchilled,

MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

t

e n u

q

a

i

PM r n

s m

i t

o

t s

u r c . e 9 FISHING FISHING a y 8 u a

a G MMartinique 0 t

i

b r , 6 l r

s o u n (Sales & Rental) 4 from 6 - 7 i g o e a

e r 7 n

BEACH TOYS r a a 6 o BBar RRestaurant DDeli f 9 Fax: + 596 596 38 11 71 www.akwaba972.com

MMarin, m 5 Happy Hour Every Day - n

t 0

•• •• ••

o n : i t a e & SNORKEL GEAR & SNORKEL GEAR c r n e u o n a h t St. Lucia n OUTDOOR CLOTHING OUTDOOR CLOTHING s p Mon - Sat 8.30am - 5.00pm PM o e e AARC DYNAMIC C l r overlooking all amenities

. Didier and Maria I e TTelephone: 0596 74 60 89 F w - 11 I FOR RENT Saturday by appointment w WWIFI Connection for our Guests AM anchor brackets, solar panel, arches & more US$30.00 per night Rebuild and repair all types of machinery wwww.restaurant-mangobay.com APARTMENT APARTMENT tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 Rodney Bay Marina, aka ‘Chinaman’. e-mail: [email protected] Managing Director & Sunday morning & Sunday located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Lawrence Lim Chee Yung Lawrence Lim Chee Yung Specialist in welding, Tel: (758) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665 Tel: Fabrication of pulpits, stanchions, davits, chainplates, Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm TWO BEDROOM Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Opening Hours Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia machining & fabrication Voiles Assistance from 7 Call (758) 452-0147 or (758) 720-8432 Tel: + 596 596 66 67 88 Port de Plaisance - Nouvelle Extension - Le Marin Port de Plaisance - Nouvelle

[email protected] continued on next page      I  L S P E H C H A N D R          F D P  E T R A C  D N I W S E Watermakers L B A M Marine Electrics U S [email protected] N [email protected] O # Installation / Repair Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 I I R N G G G Le Marin, Martinique Shipchandler, Artimer Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] www.caraibe-greement.fr Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE            grenada   • jewelry • jewelry   F D P  E T R A C 

D N I NEILPRYDE Sails NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada W S

just steps from the carenage Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean G A [email protected] for your boat, home + friends L Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, F Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 (473) Tel: www.neilprydesails.com young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts Engineering, fabrication and

welding. Fabrication and repair of TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising. Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 St. Lucia GGOLDEN For &information reservations Tel: (758)450-9792 ST. LUCIA &BARBADOS RRODNEY [email protected] “TryKaren’sspecialYachtCrewMassage” Lovely BeachfrontHomesandLand, L'Essence Massage Waterfront HomeswithPrivateDock, Email: [email protected] or All PropertyPricesarenegotiable O Tel: (758)714-7790or 284-1435 Condominiums, Villas andHotels L Diploma inMassage/SPATherapyfromSweden O SSAILS Genuine localand internationalcuisine D BBAY Rodney BayMarina,Tel:(758)715-4661 A E D E-Mail: [email protected] N A right in the heart ofGrosright intheheart Islet I

Caribbean CompassMarketPlace FOR SALEIN N TTASTE L Y A E S S Karen O.Roberts

T Y E

RRESTAURANT servicing ofwinches.

Sail repairs,biminis, Tel: (758)452-8648or awnings, newsails, E cockpit cushions, Agents forDoyle, rigging, splicing, S Furlex &Profurl (758) 584-0291 T Call KENNY A U R A N T

&

BBAR A R WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE VHFCh16&68 P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE [email protected] www.cirexpresslogistics.com CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED Tel/Fax: +1(305)515-8388 Tel/Fax: +(599)544-3276 WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT Packages Pick–upcall: E-mail: [email protected] MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress and deliver doorto (range limitedbythehills) . continuedonnextpage MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 . One Receta high-priced: when FREE An Embarrassment of much. too and ferociously returns to Trinidad this hurri- before after Receta www.spotlessstainless.com Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. The Spice Necklace Available at Island Water World or World at Island Water Available   #   #     #   #   of Martinique. The wrapper said this “chocolat noir” hypermarchés both available in paperback and Kindle editions. You can read more about Due to the scarcity of Trinidadian beans, Hardy was working with imported cocoa Due to the scarcity of Trinidadian beans, Hardy was working Pairing Chocolate with Rum on Tobago firsthand — Dove was away I can’t vouch for Tobagonian Duane Dove’s chocolate He offers tours at his Dove’s shtick is more than just plain chocolate, however. Admittedly, there have been disappointments in my search to feed my chocolate Not all French West Indian chocolate is created equal, however, and in Deshaies, For more information: www.grenadachocolate.com www.belmontestate.net www.thehotelchocolat.com www.tobagococoa.com www.rumchocolate.com On Facebook: Gina’s Chocolate Truffles Cocobel: [email protected] (website coming soon: www.cocobelchocolate.com) Ann Vanderhoof is the author of given the rate at which it disappeared from our box, I’m inclined to agree).given the rate at which it disappeared from our box, I’m quickly in the cocoa biz, and beans when I met her last year. But times are changing cocoa. She’s experimenting she’s now managed to get her hands on a supply of Trini it, and she reports that she’s with the best way to showcase chocolate made from the raisiny flavour of her developing a rum-and-raisin truffle especially to suit Trinidadian beans. I’ll be looking for it when look for Gina’s truffles in the cane season. If you’re not a visiting politician, you can Stechers chain of stores. were only available on the when we visited Tobago, and at the time his chocolates from others. His 70-percent island at his estate — but they certainly get good reviews chocolate made from Tobago Tobago Estate Chocolate bar is the first single-estate of a French chocolatier, and beans by a Tobagonian (albeit with the collaboration inclined to forgive him.) manufactured abroad. Which is kind of cheaty, but I’m the option of a Creole dinner Tobago Cocoa Estate, near Roxborough, which include no accident that Dove is also — followed by a rum and chocolate tasting session. It’s growing up on Tobago and a sommelier, who developed a special taste for rum while now splits his time between Guadeloupe. (He subsequently settled in Sweden, and of the Caribbean are com- there and Tobago.) He believes that when these two tastes to a new dimension in bined, they complement each other, “opening the palate styles of rum with various of taste,” and he takes pleasure in matching up different “to do” list on his chocolates. Like all good cruisers, we have an ongoing item on it doesn’t involve chores such as keeping up with the brightwork or solving that pesky leak in the head. “Go visit Duane Dove,” it reads. addiction. I was tickled recently to find a very reasonably priced bar called “Elot Intense” in the contained a minimum of 52 percent cacao and was made from beans and cane sugar grown on the island. Elot is a long-established Martiniquais chocolate company (founded in 1911), but most of its products qualify (at least to this taster) as candy more than fine dark chocolate. I was hoping the “Elot Intense” would be different. Sadly, no: It tasted of sugar front and centre, with cocoa taking a distant back seat. Guadeloupe (okay, okay, I know it’s not in the Windwards), I found a 90-percent bar called “Les Planteurs de La Côte,” produced by Les Suprêmes, an artisanal chocolate company. This one was the real deal. Although it had a less-distinctive flavour profile — less personality — than bars such as Hotel Chocolat’s and the Grenada Chocolate Company’s, it was smooth and rich and definitely worth a re-buy. Except for one thing: Even in the high-priced world of fine dark chocolate, it is you convert from euros, it cost almost US$9 for a 100-gram bar! And even a confirmed chocoholic can’t let her addiction deplete the cruising kitty Mangoes, her Caribbean adventures — including an occasional chocolate blog — on her website: www.spicenecklace.com. www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass We’re on theWeb! We’re A Chocoholic’s Guide… Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Continued from page 37 When US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton paid a recent visit to sweet T&T, she was Since Brash’s fillings are made without preservatives, her bonbons require strict This cocoa renaissance has been accompanied by a bloom of small, high-end choco- Chocolate Becomes Edible Art in Trinidad From Brasso Seco in the north to Rancho Quemado in the south, cocoa estates are Cruisers on moorings between the Pitons or around the corner at Malgretout can — (featuring the pulp that Drinks such as Chocolate Daiquiris and Cacao Bellinis given a box of Cocobel bonbons, no doubt a very good thing for US–Trinidad relations. So, too, a gift was given to President Barack Obama when he was in Trinidad for the 2009 Summit of the Americas. Obama was given a box of Gina’s Chocolate Truffles, made by former lawyer Gina Hardy. These little gems are flavoured with ingredients such as Trinidadian rum and coffee. Her “Trini Truffle,” made with 54-percent dark chocolate and finely ground Trinidadian coffee, is apparently her most popular (and temperature control, and are best enjoyed within a couple of weeks — which means they can’t be sold very far from where they’re produced: in her home kitchen. She’s currently located near Westmall, but is moving to the Woodbrook section of Port of Spain soon. Luckily for cruisers, both spots are convenient to the anchorages and marinas in Chaguaramas. (She also sells at craft and gourmet fairs.) latiers. Among them is architect-turned-fanatical-chocolate-maker Isabel Brash. She calls her business Cocobel, and her filled bonbons — their soft centres infused with Caribbean flavours such as sorrel, guava, passion fruit, ginger rum, and mango pep- per — completely stole my chocolate-loving heart. Her beans come from her brother’s estate in southern Trinidad, and she makes the chocolate and processes the fruits for the fillings herself. Because of her background in architecture, she wanted her choco- lates to look as good as they taste, and each flavour of bonbon is a different piece of tiny, perfect art — so perfect you hate (for a split second anyway) to bite in. being revitalized with a vengeance on Trinidad. Demand still outpaces supply for the highly regarded Trinitario beans grown on the island. (Trinitario is a flavourful, high- yielding, hardy variety of cocoa that developed on Trinidad and is now also grown elsewhere, including St. Lucia and Grenada.) So prized are Trinidad cocoa beans that they fetch a premium price on the world market. arrange a free shoreside pickup if they want to visit for lunch or dinner, or you can hoof it up the hill. (Hotel Chocolat is across the road from another place frequented by cruisers, the restaurant at Ladera resort.) in wonderful new directions. And don’t even get me started on the desserts. Left: Cocobel’s bonbons with tropical fillings look too pretty to eat. Yeah, right… Left: Cocobel’s bonbons with tropical fillings look too pretty of her creations Right: Try the Rivers truffle! Lauren Charles with some at Bonbon Chocolates surrounds the cocoa beans in the pod) and dishes such as seared yellowfin tuna with surrounds the cocoa beans in the pod) and dishes such cocoa sauce take the bean a cocoa-and-herb pesto and dorado with a red wine and MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 2009HUNTER45DS239.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44119.500US 1999BAVARIA38/355.000US 1982 CATALINA3217.000US [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail for BenatIslandWaterWorld Turn keyspecial,US$9,999Ask deck andseatbench,bimini. console, E-TEC40hpfront 1 com/belize location-catamaran-antilles. Lying MartiniqueDétailswww. BELIZE 43,2005 [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE (596) 696907429 Email [email protected]: OFFER!! LyingStLucia. US$179,000 orMAKEUSAN www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Generator &more.Fullspecsat Air-Con, SolarPanels,Wind Pilot, EPIRB,SSB,WaterMaker, cruiser. GPS,RADAR,VHF,Auto 2007, excellentliveaboardand fiberglass, vgc,newengine YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aieCmoie t are MP 22 39 St.Maarten Guadeloupe MP 11 MP MP CIRExpress St. St.Lucia 12 Chateau MygoRestaurant MP Caribe Composite Martinique Trinidad 41 Trinidad Caribbean Yachts Martinique C/W Caribbean PropellersLtd. 23 Trinidad Caribbean MarineElectrical MP Caraibe Greement Maarten 2 Tortola Caraibe Greement Grenada SintMaarten MP Capital Signal 19 Canada Metals Bequia MP MP Camper &Nicholsons MP Grenada BVI YachtSales Trinidad MP Business DevelopmentCo. 25 21 PetiteMartinique Trinidad Budget Marine Antigua 9 Bequia Venture St.Vincent St.Lucia Barrow Sails&Canvas Barefoot YachtCharters Curacao 34 B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Art &Design Grenada ARC Dynamic Akwaba Martinique Adventure HighSchool ABC Marine MP 5’ Skiff.Brandnew BOATS FORSALE 1988 Centercock- , 175,000Euros. , center World Tel:(599)544-5310 Ask forBenatIslandWater turn keyspecial,US$26,000. well, T-TopEvinrudeE-TEC90hp. Unsinkable, brandnew,fish CAROLINA SKIFF17.8DLV, [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail at IslandWaterWorld only US$3,555.AskforBen deck andseatbench,pay 13’ Skiff.Brandnew www.alleluiaforsale.com For moreinfo: custom steelcutter/sloop. 1990 BRUCEROBERTS434 E-mail [email protected] pictures andequipmentlist inflatable/10hp. US$65,000For dition, 2yr.oldCaribe10’ inside andout.Excellentcon- and Kisswind.Teakisallbright wind vane,electricpilot,solar Liferaft, EPIRB,MOM,Monitor sive equipmentlistincluding water equippedwithexten- Orion isnowinGrenada.Blue water 37’fiberglasssloop 1979 TARTANT-37C [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail Ben atIslandWaterWorld special, US$19,999.Askfor boarding ladder.Turnkey hydraulic steeringand with EvinrudeE-TEC90hp, boat, centerconsoleRIB FLEXBOAT SR500LX, www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD Craig’s List Craig’s ListorCaribbean 0447 SeeVirginIslands St ThomasTel:(340)513- ready tosail$28,000,lying EDEL 33CATAMARAN1985, [email protected] oe aiie t ri 38 MP 13 MP St.Croix 48 20 Bequia St.Lucia Grenada 8 MP SintMaarten Kerry’s MarineServices MP Jones Maritime UK30/38 Bequia Johnson Hardware Grenada 31 Island WaterWorld Bequia St.Lucia Island Dreams MP Iolaire Enterprises 34 Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine C/W Gourmet Foods Bequia Golden Taste 4 USA Free CruisingGuides 38 26 Fernando's Hideaway Electropics Trinidad International MP Edward WilliamInsurance Tortola 9 29 Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial MP Doyle's Guides MP Carriacou 37 15 Doyle OffshoreSails Curaçao Dominica Down IslandRealEstate Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Mustique Dockwise YachtTransport Diginav Martinique Curaçao Marine Corea's FoodStore Clippers Ship 39 Show , front Fresh Fresh E-mail E-mail (868) 637-3244/743-4961 [email protected] Tel: Excellent Condition.E-mail Trinidad, ReadyToSail, US$55,000 Mooredin BENETEAU OCEANIS38’1997 E-mail makayabella@gmailcom by many.Tel(784)532-9224 A pleasuretosailandadmired for alfrescodinning. Huge shadedcentrecockpit water skisandkneeboard. 14’ dinghywith40hpYamaha, erator, 40gal/hrwatermaker, ensuite bathrooms.7kwgen- 2 doubleandtwinallwith suite bathroomGuestcabins: 2. Largemastercabinwithen 62 ftlongandeasilysailedby and beautifullymaintained Custom built,MCAcertified weeks ofcharterperyear. earn agoodincomeinjust12 yacht intheCaribbeanand YACHT 62FT CUSTOMBUILTCHARTER [email protected] Tel (784)457-4477E-mail Excellent Condition BOWEN 28FT/DIVEBOAT42FT [email protected] Grenada. £30,000.E-mail with manyextras.Lying pit sloop.Readytocruise Cruising yacht,centercock- 42' TYLERSLIPPER1979 Live on this beautiful Live onthisbeautiful ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS

bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS Tel (758)4528531 [email protected] vane bestoffer Aries Circumnavigatorwind offer, 10ftValliantRIBUS890, US 250,Yanmar3HM35Fbest Barlow, Barient,Lewmarfrom 22" fromUS200,Winches, Sail boatprops3blade13"to Tohatsu 30HPlongshaftUS2000, Tel: (340)344-3039 BTU $700eachOBO. type airconditioners,13500 Marine SeaMach,Hatch 470 hours$11,000.2Coleman remote start,exhaustparts, complete soundshield,digital 13KW Model#13-EOAD,with KOHLER MARINEGENERATOR, E-mail [email protected] at http://djarrka.blogspot.com/ 110/220v. Caribbean.Fordetails maker, outstandingliveaboard, to goanywhere,fastpassage- Composite decks.Fullyoutfitted Excellent condition.Fiberglass/ Center CockpitUS$189,000. 44' NORSEMAN4471984 from yourboat.Severalservic- market byyourself.Work Learn toinvestinthefinancial SAIL AWAYANDEARN [email protected] business inSt.Vincent.E-mail four tourguidesforland ONE BASEMANAGER [email protected] 0586/495-1849 E-mail tenance. Tel:(284)542- communications andmain- sales, inventory,language, folk, withskillsinmarketing, minded, positive,mature We arelookingforartistic to helpmanagestudio. ing foralive-aboardcouple ARAGORNS STUDIO TRELLIS BAY,TORTOLA, [email protected] ent tech.PleaseE-mailCVto Ideal forcruiserorindepend- makers &windgenerators. electrical, electronics,water- engines, ACandrefrigeration, ing experienceinmarinediesel seeking technicianswithwork- Engineering Co.inGrenadais MARINE TECHNICIAN e akPit C 14 MP MP 5 CW MP 28 St.Lucia MP MP Trinidad 10 Aruba Trinidad Sea HawkPaints Bequia Antigua Rodney BaySails Bequia Renaissance Marina MP Tortola 41 PRI FuelTreatment Power Boats Porthole Restaurant 26 Grenada Piper Marine 39 Perkins Engines C/W MP On Deck 29 7 Tortola DominicanRep Off ShoreRiskManagement Grenada Neil PrydeSails MP MP 22 Multihull Company MP Azores Colombia 24 MP Mid AtlanticYachtServices Martinique McIntyre Bros.Ltd St.Lucia St.Maarten Trinidad Marina Zar-Par Carriacou Bequia Marina SantaMarta Marina PortLaRoyale Marigot BeachClub Marc OneMarine MP Mango Bay Lulley's Tackle L’Essence St. Bequia La Playa Kingfisher MarineService Lucia MP MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- WANTED islook- Marine Marine E-mail E-mail and

[email protected] incumbent. MoreinfoE-mail to retireandseeksnew manager/shareholder wishes and localyachts.Current fessional servicetoforeign equipped toprovideapro- Chaguaramas, Trinidadisfully boating centreof rigging companyinthebusy Established in2000,thisyacht YACHT RIGGINGCOMPANY [email protected] 596 748832E-maildidier-et- Price 120000EurosTel:(596) machines (lessthan4years) Martinique. Newsewing Dockyard, LeMarin, 2002 locatedCarenantilles 100m2, establishedsince SAIL-LOFT, UPHOLSTERY www.sunnytraders.com es and opportunities available. es andopportunitiesavailable. saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou PROPERTY FORSALE email: [email protected] BUSINESS FORSALE ☛ accompanying classifiedsareUS$10. CLASSIFIEDS

Pre-paid bythe15thofmonth. REMEMBER US 50¢PERWORD Include name,address and numbersincount. Compass! Line drawings/photos aauMrn Vnzea 20 MP Venezuela MP Trinidad MP Yes Martinique Martinique Xanadu Marine St.Vincent WIND Martinique 8 West PalmHotel 36 MP Wallilabou Anchorage 6 Voiles Assistance 21 MP 35 St.Vincent MP Grenada VirginGorda St.Maarten Virgin GordaYachtHarbour 16 MP Villamar GourmetFoods St.Vincent Carriacou Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply MP Grenada St.Vincent Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout 18 Turbulence Sails PuertoRico Transcaraibes Tikal Arts&Crafts MP Technick Grenada 41 47 SVG Tourism 17 SVG Air Martinique St.Thomas Sunbay Marina Grenada St.Maarten St. ThomasYachtSales MP St. MaartenMarineTrade MP SpotlessStainless USA Spice IslandMarine Sea Services CW =CaribbeanWide MP =MarketPlacepages42to45

Tel (758)452-0147/720-8432 night, allamenities. Marina, St.Lucia.US$30.00per Overlooking RodneyBay RODNEY BAY,2BEDROOMAPT email: [email protected] term rates.Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong- Internet, cableTV.2weeks stunning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio, or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA bequialandforsale.com from US$12to$6.25/Ft.www. Ft. withplanning.Reduced Exclusive location48,902Sq. BEQUIA, MT.PLEASANT www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern multi-acre tracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, PROPERTY FORSALE RENTALS Lots and MAY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago