Catalonia Gastronomic experiences INDEX

Catalonia, gastronomic tourism destination 3 Map of wine and food tourism 4 We are what we eat 7 What will you find in this publication? 7 Catalonia, European region of gastronomy 2016 9

Catalan gastronomy 10 Ten ways to experience Catalan gastronomy 12 Brief history of Catalan gastronomy 14

Scenery, product, cuisine 16 Scenery to feast on 18 Catalan products with distinction 20 A food for every moment of the year 22 Try seasonal dishes 24 The kingdoms of good food 26 Cuina Catalana Brand 27 The galaxy of the Michelin stars 28 Going back to the essence with Slow Food 29

Gastronomic proposals 30 The markets: the cradle of gastronomy 32 Learning to cook, the other side of the apron 36 The favourite dishes of Catalonia 38 Oil tourism, three thousand years of oil 40 Fish tourism, farmers of the sea 42 Wine tourism, the secrets of wine 44 Other craft drinks 48 Hotels for licking your fingers 50 The museums, the showcase of our culture 54 Events, fairs and gastronomic festivals 58 Welcome to my farm, the origins 62 The most sustainable gastronomic tourism 64

© Photographs by order of pages: ACT 2, 6, 8, 10-11, 12, 13, 16-17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 30-31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66-67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 81, 82, 83, 85, 86, 87. Aborígens 79. Ajuntament de Vic 75. Barcelona Beer Festival 49. Barcelona Turisme 78, 79. BCN Kitchen 37. Codorniu 80. Hotel Algadir del Delta 85. Oleasoul 21. Slowfood Catalunya 29. Thinkstock 14, 15, 48, 73. Wikimedia Commons 14, 15. Gastronomic routes 66

Cover photo: © ACT Rear photo: © ACT Glossary 86 More information 88 CATALONIA, THE DESTINATION OF GASTRONOMIC TOURISM

Catalonia is a land of around 32,000 km2, roughly the size of Belgium. Located in the north-east of the Iberian peninsula, it is formed by a large variety of landscapes that are the result of highly di- verse geography. On the one hand the Pyrenees, with peaks of up to 3,000 metres, which define the northern part of the country, with a valley aimed at the Atlantic, the Val d’Aran, which has main- tained its own culture, language (Aranese) and institutions. On the other hand, more than 500 km of Mediterranean coastline alternating different scenery from north to south, and which ends with the Delta de l'Ebre. Also inland is a territory of diverse crops and stock breeding, with a tradition strongly linked to these products. The capital, Barcelona, founded 4,000 years ago, has turned its cosmopolitan spirit into a hub of exchange and influences from all continents.

This diversity of sceneries results in a wide variety of ingredients: excellent fish and shellfish, fruit, exquisite vegetables, top quality meats and waters that deserve international recognition. In addition to all of these products, there is a real tradition of Catalan cuisine, with remarkable leading products already famous in mediaeval times. In the final years of the 20th century, the Catalan chefs gave added value to the raw materials and achieved recognition around the planet. The Roca brothers, Ferran Adrià and Carme Ruscalleda are names engraved in fire on the universe of haute cuisine.

The wines deserve their own chapter, as the country started out as an international supplier of wines in Roman times. Today, Priorat is served in the best glasses of the planet and following the example of the pioneers, the Catalan producers have wagered on the quality and promotion of their products, which have grown exponentially.

So this is a small country accessible by train, car, bicycle, on foot and even on horseback, which offers enormous perspectives for enjoying the scenery, the wine and the gastronomy. All that re- mains is to decide and embark on an exciting journey of the senses to Catalonia. Welcome to a unique experience.

4 / / 5 VAL D’ARAN

Vielha

Serradora i Museu Fariner d’Àreu

Andorra la Vella

La Xicoia el Pont Puigcerdà de Suert Sort 9 Cuina Pirinenca la Seu d’Urgell de Cerdanya 6 Mercat de la Seu d’Urgell Fogons de la Vall de Ribes VAL D’ARAN 5 Ecomuseu-Farinera Cuines de Figueres Vielha 8 la Vall de Camprodon 6 Centre d’Interpretació de l’Antic Comerç La Cuina del Vent i Botigues Museu de Salàs Joves Cuiners Tremp Ripoll Olot

PIRINEUS 12 Serradora i Club dels Sabors COSTA BRAVA Museu de l’Anxova i de la Sal Museu Fariner d’Àreu del Berguedà Cuina Volcànica Banyoles Berga

Andorra 9 Grup Gastronòmic la Vella Mercat de Torroella del Pla de l’Estany de Montgrí Solsona el Pont La Xicoia Puigcerdà Girona la Bisbal de Suert Mercat de Solsona Girona d’Empordà 11 9 Bons Fogons Sort Mercat de Vic Cuina Pirinenca Vic Museu de la Con tura la Seu d’Urgell5 de Cerdanya 6 Aeroport de Museu del Suro 7 7 Osona Cuina Mercat de la Seu d’Urgell Fogons de Girona-Costa Brava Cuina de l’Empordanet Parc Culturalla Vall de de Ribes la Santa Coloma 5 Muntanya de la Sal de Cardona Ecomuseu-Farinera Cuines de de Farners Museu de la Pesca Noguera Cuina Figueres 8 4 la Vall de Camprodon Espai del Peix 6 Balaguer Centre d’Interpretació de l’Antic Comerç Museu del Torró Mercat de Balaguer La Cuina del Vent i Botigues Museu de Salàs i la Xocolata d’Agramunt 9 Món Sant Benet - Joves Cuiners Mercat de Sant Feliu de Guíxols Tremp Ripoll Fundació AlíciaOlot Aeroport de Lleida-Alguaire TERRES DE LLEIDA PIRINEUS Manresa 12 COSTA Club dels Sabors COSTA BRAVA Cervera Museu de l’Anxova i de la Sal del BerguedàPAISATGES Cuina Volcànica BARCELONABanyoles Tàrrega Berga Lleida BARCELONA Mollerussa Granollers 9 Grup Gastronòmic Mercat de Granollers Mercat de Torroella Igualada Cuina del Vallès del Pla de l’Estany Cuina VO de Montgrí Solsona Terrassa CATALONIA, la Bisbal 10Girona ROUTE 2 Mercat de Solsona Sabadell Girona1 Mataród’Empordà 11 les Borges Bons Fogons Mercat CIC de Fassina, Vic Centre Blanques VAL D’ARAN 5 d’Interpretació delVic Cava A COUNTRYMuseu de la Con tura TO SAVOUR Aeroport de Vielha 7 Museu del Suro ROUTE 5 4 7 Osona Cuina Girona-Costa Brava Mercat de Santa Caterina BARCELONA Parc Cultural de la 8 Cuina de l’Empordanet 6 Santa Coloma Museu de la Xocolata Catalan cuisine is born out of its lands, history and culture. Trying and COSTAMuntanya DAURADA de la Sal de Cardona Mercat de la Boqueria de Farners Museu de la Pesca Serradora i Noguera Cuina Vilafranca Barcelona Museu Fariner d’Àreu ANDORRA 4 Sant Feliu enjoyingEspai the del products Peix of the country brings us to its traditions and customs. Balaguer Montblanc del Penedès Corbera Barceloneta Cuina Museu del Torró Mercat de Vilafranca Sabors de Llobregat Andorra Mercat de Balaguer la Vella i la Xocolata d’Agramunt 9 Món Sant Benetdel Penedès - Experiencing Catalonia means diving in the sea, discovering the villages Vinseum ROUTE 1 Mercat de Sant Feliu de Guíxols La Xicoia 4 Fundació Alícia Aeroport de Barcelona el Pont Puigcerdà FRANCE 3 Valls Cubat and countryside, interacting with nature... From north to south and from east de Suert Aeroport de Lleida-Alguaire TERRES DE LLEIDA 2 Manresa 8 Sort 9 Mercat de Valls Cuines del Vendrell Cheese from L’Alt Urgell and La Cerdanya Cuina Pirinenca 6 Vilanova COSTA to west, Catalonia is a country to be savoured. la Seu d’Urgell de Cerdanya Club de Tast del Gremi Mercat de la Seu d’Urgell Fogons de 11 i la Geltrú la Vall de Ribes Cervera 5 Ecomuseu-Farinera Centre PAISATGES d’Hosteleria de Sitges Cuines de 7 el Vendrell BARCELONA Figueres Tàrrega d’Interpretació 8 IGP Beef from the Catalan Pyrenees la Vall de Camprodon Mercat del Centre 6 Lleida dels Fruits BARCELONA Centre d’Interpretació de l’Antic Comerç La Cuina del Vent 5 Reus Aeroport de Reus Granollers i Botigues Museu de Salàs PDO Butter from L’Alt Urgell and La Mollerussa IGP Rustic Catalan Bread Joves Cuiners Falset del Paisatge Tremp Cerdanya Ripoll Olot PDO Fesols haricot beans from Santa Pau El gust és nostre Mercat de Granollers Designations of origin Wine gastronomic routes (all Catalonia) 3 10 PIRINEUS ROUTE 4 Tarragona Gastronòmica 12 Igualada Cuina del Vallès wines (p. 44) recommended by Traveler Club dels Sabors COSTA BRAVA Museu de l’Anxova i de la Sal Cuina VO del Berguedà Cuina Volcànica Mercat de Reus Banyoles Castell del Vi Terrassa Berga 9 É NAST T 12 ND RA V O EL Móra C E Grup Gastronòmic IGP Apples from Girona 10 S R O Mercat de Torroella Tarragona I 2 0 M Museu Oli Solé Sabadell 1 del Pla de l’Estany E 1 Mataró 1 DO Alella 6 R de Montgrí Gandesa P les Borges d’Ebre Solsona CIC Fassina, Centre la Bisbal PDO Oil from the Empordà Blanques 2 DO Catalunya Mercat de Solsona Girona Girona Bons Fogons d’Empordà 11 d’Interpretació del Cava Mercat de Vic PDO Pears from Lleida 5 Vic Museu de la Con tura Centre4 d’Interpretació de l’Oli 3 DO Cava TRUTH IN TRAVEL Aeroport de 7 Museu del Suro BARCELONA 7 Osona Cuina Girona-Costa Brava de la Vall de Llors Mercat de Santa Caterina IGP Cured sausages from Vic Cuina de l’Empordanet Parc Cultural de la Santa Coloma 8 4 DO Conca de Barberà Muntanya de la Sal de Cardona Museu de la Xocolata de Farners Museu de la Pesca 6 R0UTE 1 A region touched by the gods (p. 68) Noguera Cuina Mercat de la Boqueria 4 IGP Turron from Agramunt Espai del Peix TERRES DE L’EBRECOSTA DAURADA Balaguer 5 DO Costers del Segre 12 Museu del Torró Vilafranca Barcelona Mercat de Balaguer R0UTE 2 High mountain pleasures (p. 70) i la Xocolata d’Agramunt 9 Món Sant Benet - Club de Gastronomia del Penedès Corbera Sant Feliu Barceloneta Cuina Fundació Alícia Mercat de Sant Feliu de Guíxols Montblanc 6 DO Empordà 9 Mercat de Vilafranca Aeroport de Lleida-Alguaire TERRES DE LLEIDA Manresa de l’Ametlla de Mar Sabors de Llobregat R0UTE 3 A tasty trip to Western Catalonia (p. 72) del Penedès COSTA 1 7 DO Montsant Cervera Mercat de Tortosa Centre d’Interpretació Vinseum PAISATGES BARCELONA R0UTE 4 Travelling amidst valleys and mountains (p. 74) Tàrrega 4 Apícola Múria Cubat Aeroport de Barcelona Lleida BARCELONA 2 3 Valls 8 8 DO Penedès Mollerussa Granollers Cuines del Vendrell R0UTE 5 Discovering the central Pyrenees (p. 76) Mercat de Granollers Tortosa Mercat de Valls Igualada Cuina del Vallès Cuina VO Vilanova 9 DO Pla de Bages Terrassa R0UTE 6 Barcelona, the capital of flavour (p. 78) i la Geltrú Club de Tast del Gremi 10 11 ROUTE 3 Sabadell 1 Mataró Centre les Borges 7 d’Hosteleria de Sitges 10 DOQ Priorat CIC Fassina, Centre PDO Mongeta del Ganxet bean Essència de l'Arròs, Blanques 2 Museu de l’Arròs el Vendrell R0UTE 7 The whole colour range of wine (p. 80) d’Interpretació del Cava d’Interpretació Mercat del Centre Amposta-Delta de l'Ebre Molí de Rafelet 4 dels Fruits 11 DO Tarragona PDO Oil from Les Garrigues 5AmpostaReus Aeroport de Reus R0UTE 8 Art on stone, monumental Tarraco (p. 82) Mercat de Santa Caterina BARCELONA Falset 6 8 Museu de la Xocolata del Paisatge El gust és nostre COSTA DAURADA Mercat de la Boqueria 3 10 1 12 DO Terra Alta Vilafranca Barcelona THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA Tarragona Gastronòmica R0UTE 9 The great river where life flows (p. 84) Montblanc del Penedès Corbera Sant Feliu Barceloneta Cuina Mercat de Vilafranca Sabors de Llobregat Cuina La Ràpita- Mercat de Reus del Penedès Castell del Vi IGP Potatoes from Prades IGP Calçots from Valls Vinseum 4 Delta de l’Ebre 3 Cubat Aeroport de Barcelona 12 PDO Oil from Siurana 2 Valls 8 Móra Mercat de Valls Cuines del Vendrell IGP Chicken and Capon from El Prat Museu Oli Solé Tarragona 1 Vilanova Gandesa d’Ebre Cuisine groups (p. 26) 11 i la Geltrú Club de Tast del Gremi CentrePDO Hazelnuts from Reus d’Hosteleria de Sitges 7 el Vendrell d’Interpretació Port of Vilanova Mercat del Centre dels Fruits i la Geltrú 2 32 Markets (p. 32) 5 Reus Aeroport de Reus 10 Falset del Paisatge El gust és nostre 3 Tarragona Gastronòmica ROUTE 7 ROUTE 6 Centre d’Interpretació de l’Oli 3 Museums and Cultural Centres (p. 54) Distances between capitals Mercat de Reus PDO Oil from La Terra Alta Castell del Vi de la Vall de Llors 12 Móra DO Alella Cuisine groups Museu Oli Solé Tarragona 4 Gandesa d’Ebre DO1 Catalunya Markets DO Cava Museums and cultural centres 2 TERRES DE L’EBRE DO Conca de Barberà 5 12 Protected Designations of Origin (p. 20) Centre d’Interpretació de l’Oli DO3 Costers del Segre Protected Designation of Origin de la Vall de Llors DO Empordà Protected Geographical Indication Club de Gastronomia DO4 Montsant 6 DO Penedès Airport 9 Protected Geographic Indications (p.20) TERRES DE L’EBRE 5 12

Barcelona Girona Lleida Tarragona DO Pla de Bages High-speed Train de l’Ametlla de Mar km IGP Clementines from Les Terres Club de Gastronomia ROUTE 8 DOQ Priorat Main motorways De L'Ebre 6 9 1 Mercat de Tortosa 7 Barcelona 107 162 99 de l’Ametlla de Mar DO Tarragona Motorways Centre d’Interpretació 1 Mercat de Tortosa DO7 Terra Alta Centre d’Interpretació CataloniaDistances between capitals Apícola Múria Girona 107 255 197 Apícola Múria 8 8 Airport Tortosa 9 Tortosa Lleida 162 255 101 PDO Oil from the Baix Ebre-Montsià

9 High-speed Train 10 Tarragona 99 197 101 2 Essència de l'Arròs, Museu de l’Arròs Amposta-Delta de l'Ebre Molí de Rafelet 11 10 Main motorways Amposta 2 Essència de l'Arròs, Museu de l’Arròs 1 PDO Rice 12 Amposta-Delta de l'Ebre Molí de Rafelet 11 Motorways Cuina La Ràpita- from the Delta Amposta Delta de l’Ebre Port of Sant Carlesde l’Ebre de la Ràpita 1 12 2 3 km Barcelona Girona Lleida Tarragona Barcelona 107 162 99 Cuina La Ràpita- Girona 107 255 197 6 / Lleida 162 255 101 Delta de l’Ebre ROUTE 9 Tarragona 99 197 / 1017 2 3 WE ARE WHAT WE EAT

Beyond the Mediterranean diet, food is present at all times of life in this country. For example, on the calendar: Easter Monday for everyone is the “día de la mona” (the cake that godparents give their godchildren). Or in language: when someone is rather careless it is said that “they need to boil longer”; when something is very foreseeable, it is said that “they are counted beans”; if someone finds it hard to decide, they are qualified as a “saucepan taster” and to say that something is very long, the expression is “longer than a day without bread”. So as in many cultures of the world, in Catalonia food is present in all facets of life, not only as the system of subsistence it obviously is. What better way to get to know a people than through its gastronomy?

WHAT WILL YOU FIND IN THIS PUBLICATION?

You will find proposals for spending an unforgettable weekend and living a life of good food and drink in Catalonia through its countryside, products and cuisine. You will also see ten ways to experience Catalan gastronomy, the establishment of the “Gastro- nomic Hotels” flag, the main cuisine groups and their conceptions, wine tourism proposals, cam- paigns for seeing the products of agriculture and fishing first-hand, the best markets and fish auctions, most interesting museums for lovers of good food and new wine gastronomic routes covering practically the whole country. All of the keywords, which cannot be translated, are exp- lained at the end, in the glossary. You can also find interesting specific proposals, contacts of companies working on the diffusion of gastronomic tourism, and curiosities to enjoy yet more in Catalonia.

8 / / 9 CATALONIA, EUROPEAN REGION OF GASTRONOMY 2016

On 2 June 2015, Catalonia was awarded the title of European Region of Gastronomy 2016 by the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism, which has the support of the Eu- ropean institutions, and since then Catalonia has formed part of the Platform of European Gastro- nomy Regions.

This distinction reaffirms Catalonia as a tourist destination at the forefront of Europe, with a strong value in wine and food, and positions the local food product in the world. The candidature was prepared along three axes: the product, the territory and Catalan cuisine. The three guarantee the quality and singularity of gastronomy that is fruit of a millenary history, of a gentle Mediterra- nean climate with unbeatable natural wealth which translates into a very varied recipe book cons- tantly being updated.

A revealing table The fever of globalisation and with it the international flow of foods on the other side of the coin is a return to simple life and local products. The chefs have added to this trend and have gone for seasonal products respectfully grown near home. Catalonia was declared European Region of Gastronomy 2016, a recognition that revealed the quality of its food and tourist heritage and sym- bolised the excellence of its products, of its cuisine and of its traditions. The good work of the producers, restaurant owners, research centres, schools and chefs of Catalonia have made this cuisine an international benchmark.

Territory, cuisine and product The country’s kitchens have become a magical place. The creativity expressed by the great names of our culinary art has been taken to the limit. The three distinctive traits of Catalan gastronomy (territory, cuisine and product) have served to express a whole philosophy which was defined in an enormously vast annual programme with meetings, shows and promotional campaigns of pro- ducts, dishes and scenery. The visible face of this project is Carme Ruscalleda, a chef of world renown, enthusiast of local cuisine and a great defender of the country's tourist potential.

10 / / 11 CATALAN GASTRONOMY CATALAN GASTRONOMY

12 / Catalan gastronomy Catalan gastronomy / 13 TEN WAYS TO EXPERIENCE CATALAN GASTRONOMY ENJOYING A MEAL BY THE SEA OR The gastronomic wealth that Catalonia can offer visitors is immense, and the work LEARNING TO COOK EXPAND YOUR of the host is to show the guest what is most important from their lands. ENJOYMENT OF A Here are some essential pieces of advice. VISIT TO CATALONIA

he recommendations that can tomato as if it were a brush? Every day! be given to intensely enjoy a There is no more daily activity in this gastronomic visit to Catalonia country than pambtomaquejar or rubbing T start with asking the tourist to bread with tomato. Do we have to go into have a very active attitude They will have the kitchen? Of course you do! To enjoy to get up early, struggle to talk to the peo- the food, you start long before sitting at ple of the country, develop curiosity on the table. Do we have to go to the mar- HIT THE MARKET DIP YOUR BREAD IN OLIVE OIL extreme levels and leave their prejudices ket? Naturally! The fresh products await 1 Stroll among the market stalls 5 Stroll among the millenary oli- at home. Do we have to get on a boat? Of the sign to jump into our baskets and de- and buy local and seasonal pro- ve groves, visit an oil mill and finish course we do! And then try the fishing serve our praise. You have to do it all, and ducts. with a tasting or experience the ple- product. Do we have to tread grapes? for the peace of mind of those who plan, asure of dipping your bread. Obviously! And then try the wine and the the best thing is to book in advance via HAVE SOME PA cava. Do we have to rub the bread with https://experience.catalunya.com 2 AMB TOMÀQUET! CHECK THE CALENDAR Cheese and cured meats taste even Every season of the year sur- TAKE A SEAT THERE IS NOTHING 6 LIKE TOUCHING THE better on a slice of bread with toma- prises us all with its products. 9 Taste and savour the most tra- PRODUCTS AND to, oil and salt. Choose your favourite! ditional and creative menus offered FEELING THE EARTH WITH YOUR HANDS by the wide range of Catalan restau- TO HAVE AN rants. UNFORGETTABLE ENJOY A CALÇOT ONION TRY YOUR LUCK AT FISHING EXPERIENCE 3 Roast calçots over the vine 7 Experience traditional Cata- wood grill, dip this peculiar onion in its lan fishing in the company of a fi- BOOK ONLINE sauce, and drink wine from a pitcher. sherman. 10 Wine, oil, seafood, cheeses, cured meats, preserves, desserts... If TASTE SOME WINES GET YOUR APRON ON you already know what your gastro- 4 AND CAVAS 8 Discover the best secrets of nomic journey in Catalonia is going to At a modernist cooperative, the vine- Catalan cuisine along with its main be, follow this link and book at yards or a table at a good restaurant. players. https://experience.catalunya.com

14 / Catalan gastronomy Catalan gastronomy / 15 BRIEF HISTORY OF CATALAN GASTRONOMY The table says it all: beyond the dates and battles, gastronomy can become our best history teacher. The different dishes of the Catalan recipe book tell us how we have come this far.

TOMATO, il, wheat and wine is the trilogy Middle Ages. The most ancient is kept in AN ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT, that has marked our tradition the Llibre de Sent Soví, an anonymous REACHED THE since antiquity. The origin of manuscript from the 14th century. Little quet. In the 16th century, the bourgeoisie cod, such as esqueixada, coexist with CATALAN TABLE IN THE 16TH Mediterranean cuisine lies in after, another three recipe books appea- made the first attempts at distinction by the more cosmopolitan trends. Today, CENTURY FROM O AMERICA the Greek and Roman civilisations. The red, the Llibre d’aparellar de menjar, the emulating recipes from French cuisine, Catalan cuisine has rescued the essence presence of the Greeks in Catalonia Llibre de totes maneres de potatges and but the local taste remained closer to the of such different landscapes as the Pyre- brought us vines, almonds and olives. the Llibre de totes maneres de confits. Italian and Occitan influences which nees, the Mediterranean coast and pla- The Romans made these crops stronger. In the 15th century, contact with Ame- have now become basic in the Catalan ces like the Empordà and the Delta de Today's cuisine also includes some in- rica brought the table essentials like homes, such as party cannelloni and co- l'Ebre. The culinary culture of each terri- fluences from the Arab presence on our chocolate, potato, peppers, beans and ques de recapte (a kind of local pizza) tory finds its most modern expression in lands. above all tomatoes, an essential ingre- with seasonal and preserved ingredients. Barcelona, a city open to the world and Catalonia can boast a very ancient cu- dient in modern Catalan cuisine as The sauces with tomato and aubergines, interested in presenting the Catalan gas- linary bibliography dating back to the shown by the essential pa amb tomà- such as samfaina and the dishes with tronomic identity. Timeline 3rd Century BC 882 1324 1519 19th century 1936 1984 Garlic: it came with the Zyriab: the cook who Sent Soví: Tomato: it reached Barcelona revolution: Michelin stars: the El Bulli: Roman legions brought a recipe book One of the Catalonia in the 16th the El Suizo, Can Martin first Catalan restaurants Ferran Adrià came and is one of the bases for Arab products such oldest cookbooks century and Maison Doré to achieve two stars to the front of of Catalan cuisine. as artichokes, oranges, in Europe. and its penetration restaurants merged with were La font del lleó, the kitchen of the rice, almonds and in the cuisine was the traditional, the French Casa Llibre and La mythical restaurant, saffron. slow but definitive. and Italian cuisines. taverna vasca. now closed.

16 / Catalan gastronomy Catalan gastronomy / 17 PRODUCT, SCENERY, KITCHEN PRODUCT, SCENERY, KITCHEN

18 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 19 raw material used to make delicious ‘arrossejat’ or the ‘arròs a banda’ are cold meats. Along with the cheeses some of the essential dishes. made throughout the country, these have become the excellent bases of THE FARMER WHO LOVES THE LAND breakfasts and teas. The vineyards of the Penedès, pinned between the warm coastal climate and THE SEA’S AROMA the mountains of Montserrat, have given Catalonia has almost 600 km of coastli- rise to a renowned DO. The olive groves ne with fine sand beaches and also tiny that also mainly ex- coves with crystal clear water. In each tend to the south and port, we can try magnificent recipes of west produce some of local grilled fish and stews like those the best extra-virgin made by the fishermen of yesteryear. In olive oils. That of the the district of the Costa Brava there will arbequina variety of always be good white fish, as these the Siurana and Les SCENERIES TO have been the basis for the tasty ‘su- Garrigues area is wi- quets’ since times long past. The dely famed. The dried shrimps from Palamós and the oysters fruit of the Camp de of the Delta de l’Ebre are the star pro- Tarragona district and FEAST ON ducts that the Catalan coasts gives from the sweet fruit like north to south. Often accompanied by pears, peaches or Catalonia is a good region to explore the geography of taste. seasonal vegetables such as the much apples from Lleida are PALAU MOJA loved peas of the Maresme. In the extre- essentials on a good The Palau Moja features a It offers a recipe book of dishes that help us to understand these lands me south of Catalonia, the Delta de table, and also the restaurant area to delight anyone through the smells, flavours and textures of the products. l’Ebre, a unique natural area, places fish oranges and tangeri- interested in discovering traditional Catalan cuisine and its regional broth at the service of many meals with nes from the Terres de produce. La Cuina del Moja offers rice, the main crop of the area. The l’Ebre. guests the chance to sample an lmonds, shrimps, potatoes, nees with other inland hill ranges rich in extensive range of exclusive oils and participate in Catalan DO wine rice, nougat, beans, oil, mus- vegetation, animals and mushrooms, tastings led by experts, as well as hrooms, wine, snails, tomato- such as the Montseny and the Beseit Paint Nights – magical evenings es, sausage, anchovies, passes in the Terres de l’Ebre. Places of gastronomy and art. The restaurant, located on La Rambla, chestnutsA ... This succession could go often isolated, which have learned to be is open all day, serving breakfast, on and on and would become the gas- self-sufficient and stand out for their lunch and dinner and everything in tronomic map of the lands of Catalonia. products. Beef has brought forth tasty between. All dishes are prepared using local, organic products so It is our proposal to tour this geography stews that take a particular forms in you are guaranteed a healthy of flavours. each district or region, and also chic- option, no matter what you choose. ken, which is now part of our daily cui- The Palau building also houses a shop selling Catalan products and MEATS AND CHEESES sine. Pork, which is mainly bred in the a tourist office. IN THE MOUNTAINS northern regions of Lleida and Girona, THE RICE FROM THE DELTA DE L’EBRE, For more information: Catalonia perfectly combines the wild and also in the Osona district with the i WHICH IS OF GREAT www.palaumoja.com nature and bucolic scenery of the Pyre- famous Vic sausage Llonganissa, is the QUALITY, HAS A DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN

20 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 21 THE CHICKEN FROM EL PRAT ARE THE MAIN FEATURES OF THE CHRISTMAS CATALAN TABLES PRODUCTS WITH IMMERSION IN THE WORLD DISTINCTION OF OIL A multitude of products from the country have their name accompanied by the What does combing olive trees mean? Discover it with Olea Soul letters: DOP, IGP, ETG... This is government recognition of the quality and same place. To begin with, we will mention already triumphed at and enjoy its proposals, in which singularity of each agricultural food variety and its roots in the country. the rice from the Delta de l’Ebre, which is the Paris Universal Ex- you will see the secrets of olive oil and its preparation. You will enjoy excellent for saucepan dishes. As an aperi- hibition in 1857, and is a day of gastronomic and cultural tif and dessert, the aromatic and mild ideal for eating with experiences like a barbecue hazelnuts from Reus. Pears from Lleida are Catalan rustic bread. breakfast, harvesting the olives, chieving a high degree of quality also essential at any time. And we must not The potatoes from Pra- tasting the oils and textures, lunch implies the effort of the produ- forget the emblematic beans from Santa des compete with each with local products and featuring oil, accompanied by wine from cers to meet the consumers’ ex- Pau, ‘fesols’, and the ‘Ganxet’ haricot other to see which is the DO Costers del Segre and a A pectations of a product. This is beans, ideal with meats. the softest. Special guided tour of the Museu de l’Oli the case of the different Catalan products. A meal without cheese is inconceivable mention should be gi- de Catalunya. As well as the DOP and IGP awarded by the and Catalonia has a wide variety of quality ven to the cocks from European Union, there are other distinc- dairy products in the Alt Urgell and Cerdan- the Penedès district tions with stamps that recognise their qua- ya district, such as butter and cheese. Oil is and the chickens and i For more information about lity, such as the Guaranteed Traditional one of the pillars of Catalan gastronomy. capons from El Prat, this and other suggestions: www.oleasoul.com Specialities (Especialitat tradicional garanti- Widely recognised is that of the Empordà, also called blue foot, da, ETG), awarded amongst other things to produced since the 6th century BC; that of which are typical on cured ham and ‘panellets’. The Q Quality the Baix Ebre-Montsià, pure olive oil; that Christmas tables, along with the beef from brand distinguishes a series of products of Les Garrigues, the oldest DOP in Spain; the Catalan Pyrenees. The ‘calçots’ onions with a red seal, with a golden Q. It is worth that of Siurana, with over a thousand years from Valls complete the list. To finish off, noting the recommendation. of history; and that of the Terra Alta. the tangerines from the Terres de l’Ebre, the apples from Girona and the nougats of PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN PROTECTED GEOGRAPHIC INDICATION Agramunt, rocky and solid. (DENOMINACIÓ D’ORIGEN PROTEGIDA, (INDICACIÓ GEOGRÀFICA PROTEGIDA, DOP) IGP) THE HAZELNUTS This is a European Union distinction that Products with this distinction are of a qua- FROM REUS AND identifies a product that owes its quality lity, reputation or other characteristic attri- THE GANXET HARICOT BEANS and characteristics to its place of origin. It butable to their geographic origin. In the HOLD A DOP must be produced and transformed in the case of sausage of Vic (Llonganissa), this THAT CERTIFIES THEIR QUALITY

22 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 23 A FOOD FOR EVERY MOMENT AN EDIBLE ‘MONA’ OF THE YEAR On Easter Monday, Catalan godparents give their godchildren The best way to get to know Catalonia through the senses is to try its seasonal a cake known as the mona, a word that has its origin in products. The fact is that the delights which were born on the tables of the coast or the STRAWBERRIES the Arab term munna, which FOR THE SPRING, translates as “provision of the high mountains have colonised the dishes of the whole country on their own merit. FIGS FOR SUMMER AND CALÇOTS mouth”, a gift that the Moors FOR WINTER: offered their Lords as a symbol of THAT'S THE fertility, rebirth and hope. It was RECIPE OF originally a simple disk of bread HAPPINESS he seasons leave something cress and spinach. Capons, pigs and with as many boiled eggs as the godchild was old. Today the magic. One good day, the first game twin with sea urchins. The typical chocolate eggs are absolutely the strawberries appear in the ‘calçots’ onions cheer the large tables features and the varieties of cake market and then we know that of meetings of friends. And tangerines with a sponge base, whipped Tpicnic days are back. And the same welcome in the after-dinner chat. cream, vanilla cream, truffle and thing happens with the mushrooms, different coverings, profusely decorated with candied fruit, which announce long evenings by the THE SPRING angel bread flowers and small toy fire. BRINGS SARDINES figures. April offers large sardines, tender peas, TO HEAT THE WINTER new potatoes and crisp cucumbers. The winter stars are garlic, broccoli The strawberries arrive with great cheer. and celery, the last of which is put in And we must also leave a place for the Christmas stew. The ‘trinxat’ is snails and green asparagus, so lovely bergine, onion and courgette. The NON-MELANCHOLIC AUTUMNS made with cabbage and bacon and the in an omelette. Tuna and mackerel ri- shrimps are fantastic, just like the tuna, Turnips, radish, pumpkins, chestnuts more understanding try the broccoli val the hake and lobsters of the Costa the squid, the Norway lobsters and and the ineffable mushrooms turn Au- THE MUSHROOMS creams and delicious salads of chicory, Brava. The mussels and baby octopus sole. The fruit fields blossom with tre- tumn into a festival. This is also the CHEER THE AUTUMN cooked with onion are all the rage on asures like apricots, plums, figs, pea- time of olives and oil. A roast lamb, DAYS the tables. ches, small pears, watermelons and goose or wild boar will also be a gift for FOR PICKERS melons. Summer is time for barbecues the palate. Giltheads, oysters and sal- SUMMER WITHOUT GREEN with the large ‘butifarra’ sausages, and mon dress the best autumn tables, VEGETABLES IS NOT SUMMER improvised teas with dried sausage or which will finish with sweet pomegra- Cod finds its place in the summer with exquisite anchovies from L’Escala on nates and grapes, which can also be a sauce made with pepper, tomato, au- toasted bread rubbed with tomato. present in the best salads.

Product, scenery, kitchen / 25 TRY SEASONAL TWO VERY DIFFERENT COCAS: THE SWEET DISHES ONE OF MIDSUMMER'S Depending on the time of year, the Catalan recipe book offers dishes to warm EVE AND THE THE SUMMER FOODS cuttlefish, snails a la llauna in the oven SAVOURY the body from the cold. These traditional recipes have become part of the When the heat arrives, we look for cool or the Lenten fritters made before Eas- RECAPTE varied gastronomy. and light dishes. Empedrat is one of the ter week arrives. On the other hand, best known some options. A mixture of when the cold approaches in autumn, white beans, sliced olives, pieces of to- tables are not missing dishes like frican- mato, chopped onion and cod, all garni- dó (a stew with meat and mushrooms); n a gastronomic culture so proud ded, the pilota, which is then shared out shed with and vinegar. Just when the game and panellets, chestnuts and of its territory and products as the amongst the diners. In a Christmas ver- green vegetables are at their peak is the sweet potatoes which are eaten on 31 Catalan, dishes have to follow the sion, the stew is added a kind of pasta, time to prepare the traditional escalivada October. Apart from the seasonal di- I months and the changing sea- called galets, in the shape of an enor- with roast aubergine, pepper, tomato and shes, one of the most representative is sons. And not only this, they have to fo- mous snail. And on the next day, canne- onion. Midsummer's eve in Catalonia is the simple pa amb tomàquet. This is llow the celebrations which have their llonis are made for the feasts to go on. celebrated with a delicious brioche coca bread, which might or might not be own specific recipes to delight diners. One of the products which has brou- normally decorated with candied fruit and toasted, rubbed with tomato and dres- ght most renown to the lands of the accompanied by cava or sweet wine. sed with olive oil, which usually accom- WINTER DELIGHTS Camp de Tarragona is the calçot from panies cold meats such as sausage, The Queen of the winter is escudella. In a Valls, which is grilled over an open fire, SPRING AND AUTUMN DISHES egg sausage, white and black sausage, large pot, a stew is made with vegetables, peeled and dipped in a special sauce In the spring, a habitual dish is peas with bulls, fuets and longanizas. chicken, pork sausage, potato and chic- before eating. kpeas, and a large beef meatball is ad- And further inland, something typical of Lleida are the cassoles de tros, a stew prepared by the farmers in the fields in a THE SWEETER CATALONIA large saucepan with potatoes, snails, spi- ‘Crema catalana’ is one of the most traditional desserts at large celebrations, especially nach and pork meat; and also the coques in the spring when there is a surplus of eggs. It is not missing from any table on Saint Joseph's Day, de recapte, (the Catalan pizza) which is a on 19 March. To celebrate Easter Monday, the godparents give their godchildren a cake decorated good example of popular cuisine. Also with chocolate eggs, which is called the ‘mona’. Christmas is the time of nougats. Those from Agramunt are poetry in flavour and texture, and the same can be said of the craft wafers. On 6 typical of Catalonia are the ‘faves a la ca- January, the cake known as the ‘roscón de reyes’ will decide who is crowned King and who will talana’, which is one of the most appeti- pay for this delicious dessert. sing dishes offered by January with broad CALÇOTS ARE ROASTED beans, bacon and mint. ON AN OPEN FIRE

26 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 27 BOOKS THE CUINA CATALANA BRAND AND ‘PICADAS’ The picada is one of Catalonia’s Cuisine is the intangible cultural heritage most famous contributions to general cooking, and THE KINGDOMS of a country and an element of its identity. undoubtedly one of the elements that distinguish it from other OF GOOD gastronomies of the world. We have news of its use as far back as the 13th century. Garlic, FOOD dried fruit, fried bread, parsley, biscuits, chocolate and many other ingredients are mashed The cuisine groups of Catalonia and added to endless dishes to provide them with thickness as are distinguished by their well as characteristic aromas quality and local cuisine. and flavours. The restauranteer Ramón Parellada wrote a book They defend a reinterpretation (El llibre de les picades) in which he gathers more than a hundred of traditional cuisine, using the different ‘picadas’. To make it same ingredients. you need the classical yellow and green stone or marble mortar and the wooden pestle, generally olive wood.

The best rice and shellfish from the styles around the whole country. From the mountains to the coast, The Cuina Catalana Brand project WHAT DOES THE MCC Delta de l’Ebre cooked by the Ràpi- They act as protectors of the roots the length and breadth of Catalo- was started in 2001 by the Fundació ACHIEVE? ta – Delta de l’Ebre Cuisine Group; of Catalan cuisine thanks to the nia, there are different cuisine Institut Català de la Cuina y de la The main aims of the more than 200 or the inland cuisine with products constant work of the restauran- groups that promote the local di- Cultura Gastronòmica (FICCG) and participating establishments are to like pork, beans from Collsacabra teers, who are active agents of this shes, always with the idea of reco- is supported by more than fifty insti- guarantee the continuity of our cuisi- and truffle, which the Osona Cusi- heritage. Driven by the chefs them- vering the local product and inno- tutions and entities. In 2006, the Cor- ne, to promote Catalan agricultural ne Group offers at the gastronomic selves, they organise events to pro- vating it. These entities gather pus de la Cuina Catalana was publi- food products and to create a network dinners it organises, are examples mote local ingredients from the far- more than 200 Catalan restaurants shed with more than 1,000 recipes that involves farmers, restauranteers, of these patrols of guarantors of lo- mers, with the idea of seasoning and are a fundamental tool in pro- that use local and seasonal products food trades, hospitality schools and cal cuisine. the different local cuisines. The moting and positioning the country wherever possible. The establish- companies in the defence, promotion cuisine groups invite you to savour as a top gastronomic destination. ments of the Cuina Catalana Brand and dissemination of our culinary heri- CHEFS AND DEFENDERS the pleasure of good, traditional On the www.catalunya.com web- incorporate products regulated by tage, and also to ensure the preserva- These are the territorial barons of cooking. Some of them preserve or site, there is more information on specific distinctions (Designation of tion of the biodiversity and rural su- Catalan gastronomy. There are promote ancient recipes, others re- these groups. Origin, Protected Geographic Indica- rroundings. The Cuina Catalana brand now around twenty feuds that re- cover old cooking techniques or tion, Guaranteed Gastronomic Spe- offers quality and commitment to sus- present the variety of culinary utensils used a lot in the past. ciality, etc.). tainability and the environment.

28 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 29 THE MARKETS GOING BACK TO THE ESSENCE OF THE LAND These are the happy meeting place where the involved WITH SLOW FOOD producers and motivated THE GALAXY OF consumers share their This movement defends a gastronomy concerns. The organisers THE MICHELIN guarantee that the path that returns to the local product and respect that the foods have taken and love of seasonal dishes. to reach the tables meet the STARS concepts of good, clean and fair. In the city of Barcelona, every Saturday, the market The Catalan gastronomic offers its products in the heaven has never shone Parc de les Tres Xemeneies in Poble Sec. so bright and with such In Sitges, in the Parc del Retiro, the market is organised on the strength. Many and excellent first Saturday of each month. restaurants offer us their creations and honourably i More information: join the red guide list. http://slowfoodgarrafpenedes.com/ http://slowfoodbcn.cat

THE OSCARS lands, we find Michelin star restau- Paco Pérez and Raül Balam Rusca- SLOW COOKING, dients of local origin in other words OF RESTORATION rants of many styles. Amongst tho- lleda. Although there are figures that WISE COOKING when the restauranteer buys direct Catalonia can be considered a gas- se chosen, there are also some with have seduced the whole world with In Catalonia, Slow Food appeared from the local producer, the one tronomic power if we look at the re- three stars, the maximum score on their career like Ferran Adrià with his to correct the problems that the who has cultivated them in the case cognitions achieved in the form of this scale. passion for innovation; Carme Rus- so-called ‘fast food’ brought to the of vegetables, or bred and produ- Michelin stars, for many the Oscars calleda and her exquisite taste for traditional diet, and with a firm will ced them in those of animal origin, of restaurant activity. We have 55 THE DREAM TEAM OF CUISINE product or the loyalty to tradition of to promote the philosophy of seaso- within a radius of no more than 40 restaurants that accumulate 65 Mi- Fish, meats and vegetables, along the brothers Joan, Josep (Pitu) and nal and local products. The Slow km, thus reducing CO2 emissions. chelin stars. The centenary red gui- with rice and olive oil have been re- Jordi Roca. Food group has 3 areas of action: The traceability also guarantees de, which each year publishes a valued by these bold alchemists of These imaginative chefs not only Slow Food KM0 dedicated to res- respect for the environment and for selection of classified restaurants the kitchen. Each of them has stood aim to feed us, but to help us as di- taurants; Arca del Gust and Baluard the living beings participating in the and hotels, has rewarded the Cata- out for some special skill reflected in ners to have a unique experience, a which work on recovering products, process. We now have more than lan cuisine product for its originality the way they cook. sensorial journey similar to that of with around twenty currently regis- 65 restaurants around Catalonia. and love. From the Pyrenees to the Some of the chefs with most any other of the great artistic disci- tered, and; the Markets of the Land. The list is updated every year and Delta de l’Ebre, and from the Costa stars are: Paolo Casagrande, Fina plines like music, literature and A recipe is considered KM0 when it can be consulted on the websites at www.slowfood.com Brava and Barcelona to the western Puigdevall, Paco Pérez, Jordi Cruz, painting. has more than 40% of its ingre- the bottom of the page. www.km0slowfood.com

30 / Product, scenery, kitchen Product, scenery, kitchen / 31 GASTRONOMY PROPOSALS GASTRONOMY PROPOSALS

32 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 33 SELECTION OF MARKETS

BARCELONA

• MERCAT DE LA BOQUERIA From Mondays to Saturdays Located on the Rambla, this was the first of the municipal markets opened in 1840.

• MERCAT DEL NINOT THE MARKETS, THE CRADLE OF From Mondays to Saturdays In 2015, its complete refurbishment BARCELONA COAST COSTA BRAVA was with modern installations and bars for tasting. • MERCAT DEL CENTRE • MERCAT DE TORROELLA GASTRONOMY (Vilanova i la Geltrú) DE MONTGRÍ • MERCAT DE SANTA CATERINA From Mondays to Saturdays Mondays The markets express the character of a people. To stroll amongst their stalls, From Mondays to Saturdays A good offer of high quality fish and With a very large offer, especially in Refurbished in 2005 by the Enric shellfish. the summer. buying and talking to the traders means to discover Catalan gastronomy Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue from expert voices. team of architects, its wavy and co- • MERCAT DE GRANOLLERS • MERCAT DE SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS lourful rooftop can now be seen Thursdays Sundays from the terraces of the Gothic The formation of the mediaeval The more than one hundred sellers true gastronomic culture is ys de Mar and also at the Vilanova i la quarter. town was the result of its market bring together their stalls near the built from fresh products. Geltrú auction on working days at 8 in the operation, already documented in sea. The markets have not only morning and 4 in the afternoon. On the the 11th century and which has been and are places for dis- Costa Brava, the offer is very broad: Pa- been held without interruption until • MERCAT DE PALAFRUGELL A our days. tributing food, but are also a place for lamós opens its auction only for end con- From Tuesday to Saturdays the whole of society to meet and ex- sumers on working days from 4:30 PM to Next to the Plaça Nova, near the change. 7:30 PM; Roses has its auction on Fri- • MERCAT DE VILAFRANCA church, this daily market offers all days at 5 PM and Llançà does on the DEL PENEDÈS kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables. FISH AUCTIONS: same day and at the same time too. Saturdays FROM THE SEA TO THE TABLE In the Terres de l’Ebre district, two auc- An early 20th-century photograph of • MERCAT DE GIRONA When talking about fresh fish, we usually tions can be visited: that of l’Ametlla de the Pl. Jaume I, shows that the se- From Mondays to Saturdays use the expression “recently brought Mar, which specialises in red tuna, and llers of the district's melons and wa- With more than 70 years of history from the auction”. On the Barcelona that of Sant Carles de la Ràpita. The termelons gathered there. Now the and an area of over 1700 m2, the coastline, from Mondays to Fridays after boats come in at 3 PM so the best time to Saturday market gathers 230 stalls market building stands in Plaça del 4 PM, we can attend the auction in Aren- enjoy the auction is after 4 PM. and is in the centre of the town. Lleó. It stands out for the quality of

34 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 35 its fresh products like meat, fish, • MERCAT DE L’HOSPITALET fruit and vegetables. DE L’INFANT Sundays COSTA DAURADA Located on the promenade, it has all experiences for of the flavour of the traditional mar- Food • MERCAT DE REUS kets. Mondays and Saturdays Located opposite the former Sant SCENERIES OF BARCELONA all tastes Joan hospital, it has 130 stalls. • MERCAT DE VIC experience.catalunya.com • MERCAT DE TARRAGONA Tuesdays and Saturdays Tuesdays and Thursdays One of the prettiest markets of Catalo- a meeting place for the residents of The Rambla Nueva fills with stalls nia. This same location has housed the la Cerdanya district. and the shouts of the traders. the market since the 9th century. Here there are stands with products of the • MERCAT DE TREMP • MERCAT DE VALLS land, flowers, craftwork and poultry. Mondays Wednesdays and Saturdays A fruit and vegetable market that On Saturdays, next to the vegetable PYRENEES also sells clothes, shoes and agricul- market there are antiques stalls. tural products. • MERCAT DE SOLSONA • MERCAT DE BONAVISTA Tuesdays and Fridays • MERCAT D’OLOT (Tarragona) Every week the Plaça Major, the Mondays Sundays Plaça del Bisbe and the Plaça de la With more than 170 stalls on the Pas- This is the largest of the local region Catedral house this weekly market. sei Miquel Blay, Plaça de Jaume Bal- and is located in the west of the city, On Fridays the market is larger, and mes and in the adjacent streets, this in the district of the same name. spreads around the area of the cast- is the centre of the whole of the re- Fresh food and all kinds of products le gate and the whole of the Avenue. gion's commercial life. are offered. • MERCAT DE LA SEU D’URGELL TERRES DE L’EBRE BOOK NOW Tuesdays and Saturdays This is held in the open air in the • MERCAT DE TORTOSA streets of the town's historical centre. From Mondays to Saturdays The building was constructed by Joan • MERCAT DE SORT Torras, the “Catalan Eiffel”, by the ri- Tuesdays ver Ebre, between 1884 and 1887. This has all kinds of stalls, from clo- thes to food. TERRES DE LLEIDA

• MERCAT DE PUIGCERDÀ • MERCAT DE BALAGUER Sundays Saturdays This is known for its considerable se- This has more than 130 stalls and lection of local products and as 800 years of history.

MORE THAN 250 EXPERIENCES ALL AROUND CATALONIA ¿Which one do you prefer to experience? Excursions from Barcelona, adventure and sport, wine and gastronomy tourism, charming villages, cultural visits, family fun. 36 / Gastronomic proposals Book now and live different emotions. LEARNING TO COOK THE OTHER SIDE OF THE APRON Although it is obvious, you learn to cycle by pedalling and by cooking you learn GENERALLY, to know and appreciate Catalan cuisine. For the shy who want to meet people THE CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS or those looking to take a step further in cooking, this is your chance. END WITH A TASTING OF THE COOKED DISHES

here is a large selection of cour- view of our gastronomy. There is also a Barcelona), the Domus Sent Soví in Hos- Catalan gastronomy is a magnificent ex- ses and workshops for learning chance to have guided tours of market, talric (Costa Brava) and the Espai del Peix perience, which will become an unforge- to cook typical dishes, enjoying producers and gastronomic excursions in Palamós, also on the Costa Brava. In ttable memory if the acquired knowledge T culinary demonstrations and are offered, which include the collection the city of Barcelona, there are more and is used once home. What about making a seeing the secrets of matching with Cata- of mushrooms, forest fruits and other de- more places to learn more and better complete stew on a winter day to remem- lan wines. Many of the restaurants and lights offered by the Catalan countryside. about Catalan gastronomy. ber the aromas of traditional cuisine? cooking schools around Catalonia offer It is in the many Catalan markets where And as dessert, nothing better than a the chance to take classes in many for- gastronomy was born. To enjoy a tour SOUVENIR OF CATALONIA crema catalana, without forgetting to mats and on many levels, to get an inside guided by an expert is a fabulous adven- Is there anything more permanent than an burn the sugar at the last moment to reli- ture: the freshest ingredients produced experience? Learning to cook dishes of ve the trip with your eyes closed. locally and of indisputable quality jump from these establishments to the kit- chens. HAVE FUN COOKING

APPRENTICES AND MASTERS If you are in Barcelona, put on your apron and come discover Catalan cuisine first-hand on a There are offers for all tastes. From mas- bcnKitchen course, and learn by cooking, with a glass of wine and in good company. You will learn terclasses by super chefs for the profes- the secrets of shellfish paella, you will visit the market to learn the tricks and buy the best product, sions, to informal meetings to make jams and at the end we will try the delicious preparations together. You will take away the recipes to make for the whole family. There are cooking them whenever you want. MANY OF THE schools all around the country, like the PROPOSALS For more information on this and other activities: www.bcnkitchen.com ARE AIMED Aula de Cocina de l’Empordà, the Aula de i AT ALL PUBLICS Cocina de la Fundació Alícia (Paisatges

38 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 39 slowly. While the sauce is cooking, grind the hazelnuts, the almonds and the garlic in a grinding bowl. Add the glass of wine, stir and add THE FAVOURITE DISHES to the saucepan. Mix well for the crushed ingredients to blend in and continue cooking very slowly. Then OF CATALONIA FRICANDÓ add the fillets and pour on the bro- th. Meanwhile, sauté the clean BREAD WITH For 2 people mushrooms in a frying pan with a TOMATO Medium difficulty / 60 minutes little olive oil. Salt and pepper them Pa amb tomàquet has become a PREPARATION and add them to the saucepan. synonym of Catalan gastronomy. In a large saucepan, put all of the meat INGREDIENTS Cook it all for 10 minutes more and Of peasant origins, this is the (except for the minced pork and sausa- • 400 g of beef serve. This dish is really succulent traditional Catalan dish par ge) and the chickpeas (which will have • 1 large onion if it is made in an earthenware pan. excellence. It is easy to make, very cheap and extremely soaked all night). Fill with cold water • 1 spoonful of fresh balanced in terms of nutrition. and bring to the boil. When it begins to tomato puré How is it made? You need rustic boil, remove the froth formed on top • 1 bunch of aromatic herbs CREMA bread, ripe tomatoes, extra and leave it to boil for two hours on me- • 1 medium sized carrot CATALANA virgin olive oil and salt. You cut dium heat. • 250 g of varied mushrooms a tomato in half, you rub it on a slice of bread and add a pinch Meanwhile, on a plate, mix the min- • 3 spoonfuls of flour For 2 people of salt and a generous dose of ced pork, the chopped garlic and pars- • Extra-virgin olive oil Easy / 30 minutes extra virgin olive oil. When and ley, the breadcrumbs, the egg, a pinch • Salt and pepper where is it eaten? For breakfast, of salt and a pinch of pepper. Mix with • 200 ml of red wine INGREDIENTS tea or dinner, with cured your hands until it is smooth. Form two • 500 ml of chicken broth • 500 ml of cow's milk meats, cheeses, omelettes and anchovies, and also to accompany ESCUDELLA large compact balls and roll them in • 6 roast hazelnuts • 1 sprig of cinnamon grilled meats and fish. flour. Add the balls to the saucepan (af- • 6 roast almonds • 4 egg yolks For 2 people ter the mentioned two hours and with • 1 tooth of garlic • 100 g of sugar Medium difficulty / 3 hours all of the vegetables cleaned, peeled • 40 g of corn starch and sliced, as well as the black sausa- PREPARATION • The peel of one lemon INGREDIENTS • 100 g of lean pork ge. Leave to boil for 40 minutes on me- Slice the meat into thin medium-si- turn off the heat and allow to infuse • 3 l of water minced meat dium heat. zed fillets. Peel and chop the onion. PREPARATION for five minutes. In a bowl, mix the • 250 g of leg of beef bones • 1 egg Strain the broth and, taking care not Peel the carrot and slide it into thin In a saucepan, pour 400 ml of milk remaining milk, the yolks, the sugar • A quarter of a hen • The crumbs of one slice of white to break them, separate the vegetables strips. Put the flour on a plate and and add the cinnamon and the le- and the starch. Stir until it is a fine • One ham bone bread and the meat, which we will place on a flour the previously salted and pe- mon peel. Bring to the boil and then and even mass. Bring the sauce- • 100 g of chickpeas • 1 tooth of garlic tray and serve. Put the tray in the oven ppered fillets. Pour olive oil into a pan to the boil once more and add • 2 potatoes • Some leaves of parsley to keep it warm. saucepan and bring it up to medium the content of the bowl, stirring ca- • 1 onion • A soup spoon In a separate saucepan with the bro- heat. Add the fillets and fry them on refully. Drop the heat and stir the • 1 turnip of flour th already strained, cook the pasta as both sides. Once ready, remove the mixture until it thickens. When still • 1 leek • 100 g of ‘galets’ pasta indicated on the packet. saucepan and put to one side. In hot, pour the cream into small indi- • 2 carrots • Salt Serve the pasta soup as the first cour- the same oil, fry the onion, the sli- vidual earthenware dishes. Just • Some cabbage leaves • Ground black pepper se and the vegetables (dressed with olive ced carrot and the tomato. Add the before serving, sprinkle with sugar • 100 g of black sausage • Extra-virgin olive oil oil) and the meat as the second course. bunch of herbs and cook very and burn it with a red-hot iron.

40 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 41 OIL TOURISM THREE THOUSAND YEARS OF OIL With its golden reflections, oil is becoming easier and easier for the public to reach thanks to a series of activities that seek its promotion, like the routes IT IS WORTH and tastings of different varieties. VISITING THE MILLENARY OLIVE TREES: THEY BEAR WITNESS TO HISTORY atalonia is a great producer of through a mechanical cold extraction pro- Catalan cuisine. The classical setrill (the A NATURAL MONUMENT high-quality oil In recent times, cess. The oil is only taken from the first vessel used to hold and serve the oil, In Ulldecona, in the Montsià district, is the the Catalan producers have be- pressing and any chemical alteration or ad- made of glass with a narrow neck and largest concentration of millenary olive C come aware of the high cultural dition of synthetic substances is banned. beak for pouring) is one of the most ob- trees in the world. Events are organised value of their activity and have opened up There are five protected designations of vious graphic symbols of Catalan gastro- around them, some with theatre, to pro- their facilities more and more to explain the origin of extra-virgin olive oil in Catalonia: nomic culture. mote the heritage value of the preservation THE CULTURE process of oil production to the public. Les Garrigues, Siurana, Aceite de la Terra What's more, the ancient connection of these witnesses of history. OF OIL IN CATALONIA HAS ALWAYS BEEN Extra-virgin olive oil is of maximum pos- Alta, Aceite del Baix Ebre-Montsià and between oil, health and beauty is being The Aceite de Olivos Milenarios quality PRESENT AND sible quality. It is obtained from olives re- Aceite del Empordà, each with a product recovered in Catalan spas in the country’s brand is disseminating this heritage asso- IS ONE OF THE PILLARS OF THE cently taken from the tree in the winter with very different body and aroma. This hotels and resorts, and above all in Bar- ciated with noble products, based on MEDITERRANEAN diversity is given by the climate, the type of celona. great quality oil. DIET soil and the olive varieties used. As well as the DOP, there are traditional production areas like the Noguera, Bages and Baix Llobregat districts, which produce exce- OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE llent oils. Olive oil production at Oli de Ventalló combines tradition and modernity, all set within the magnificent To meet growing demand, almost a hun- Alt Empordà countryside. The Olive Oil Experience is a tour through the different stages involved in the production of this premium product. Starting with a walk to the olive grove, visitors learn how the olives dred producers organise tastings in the are grown before returning to the oil mill to watch a film explaining how they are harvested and a tour fields and in their own mills, which are of the rest of the facility to learn more about the production process. An opportunity to sample two extra great temples of traditional oil production. virgin olive oils brings the experience to its eagerly awaited conclusion; a choice between enjoying a tasting menu of local products or a dinner at the La Bassa restaurant.

ELIXIR OF CUISINE AND HEALTH i For more information: www.oliventallo.com Olive oil is one of the basic ingredients of

42 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 43 FISHING TOURISM FARMERS

CATALONIA IS A SMALL-SCALE FISHING COUNTRY. OF THE SEA ON THE COASTS THAT BATHE IT, The fishermen feel like farmers of the sea, and want to transmit COMING INTO CONTACT WITH their culture, gathered over generations, to visitors who decide In the port of Cambrils (Costa Daura- boat and directly share the fishermen's THE FISHERMEN IS EASY AND to take a trip on their boats. da) up to 4 different fishing tourism acti- daily experience. And in Terres de GRATIFYING vities are offered. Sailing on a fishing l’Ebre it is also possible to fish with a boat, enjoying all of the details from a professional and enjoy the fruit of his second boarding and enjoying craft fi- effort. shing and a meal at the same place are All of the experiences are both inte- he sea is fascinating. And for sible. It is just a question of choosing some of the proposals. resting and exclusive. You have to book gourmets, it is also an endless the day, putting on the right clothes and In the port of Palamós (Costa Brava) in advance and they are usually restric- source of pleasure. Discove- going to the port to board. they offer a rich and varied experience to ted to small groups. It is important to T ring the marvels of a day’s fi- allow you to discover, consider and share find out the minimum age of participa- shing from those who know the trade WHAT IS FISHING TOURISM? the colours, textures and flavours of the tion and its duration. In some ports, like none other, is one of those propo- Fishing tourism allows you to follow a sea in three activities: shrimp fishing, fish this is only done at certain times of year sals that cannot be turned down. Have professional fishing day, trying a mari- trapping and fishing along the coast. and is always subject to the weather to you ever dreamt of trying a dish with ne lunch with the crew and enjoying In l’Escala, on the Costa Brava like guarantee the safety and comfort of all recently caught shrimp? Well it is pos- the whole process of the fishing: from Palamós, the offer is to work on a small participants. the sailing to casting and bringing in the net and selecting and landing the catch. Visitors can go to the fisher- men's quay, usually restricted, and hear the stories of the older sailors LOBSTER EVERY DAY

first-hand. Until well into the 19th century, the fishermen on the Catalan coast ate lobster very often. The reason is none other than the fact it was impossible to sell, as they surprisingly found no ACTIVITIES FROM NORTH TO SOUTH customers interested in it. They generally cooked it in suquet (a traditional seafood stew typical THE FISHERMEN Fishing forms the identity of Catalonia of the Catalan coast) accompanied by potatoes and sauce, when there was nothing else. Today, ACCUMULATED however, lobster is one of the most expensive and best-loved seafoods, the main ingredient of a EXPERIENCE, as a people, as almost 600 km of coast- KNOWLEDGE OF large number of dishes that delight the most demanding gourmets and there is no restaurant on THE MEDIUM line have to influence our fishing tradi- the coast that is appreciated without lobster on its menu. According to the knowledgeable, the best AND OF THE tion, which forms part of our history and way to eat it is simply grilled. TECHNIQUES WHICH ARE future. TYPICAL OF THEIR PROFESSIONAL ACTIVITY

44 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 45 TOUR AND TASTING

For foodies looking to discover THE VINES, Montblanc’s medieval heritage, FLAT OR the Tourist Office organises ON TERRACES, guided tours that combine both DEFINE THE local history and cuisine. The tour COUNTRYSIDE stops off at two restaurants where OF CATALONIA visitors have the opportunity to WINE TOURISM sample locally sourced products representative of typical regional gastronomy and taste a selection of wines from the DO Conca de Barberà region. Some of the other THE SECRETS sites visited on the tour include, the two rampart towers, which visitors can climb for a view from the top, the rampart walkway, the churches of Sant Miquel and Santa Maria OF WINE la Major, the main square (Plaça Major) and the old marketplace, the An excellent way to discover the features of the countryside is to do so through nerve centre of Montblanc life. which produce wines with the xarel·lo ca de Barberà, a land For more information: the wines it produces. Wine culture in Catalonia draws out a large mosaic of white grape variety. To the south is one with personality that i www.montblancmedieval.cat environmental diversity. of the most productive and popular Ca- gives an excellent com- talan areas, DO Penedès, which embra- bination of heritage, culture and wine. A ces a countryside of unending vineyards visit to the Monastery of Poblet (UNES- hosoever can taste, never crasy of the country firsthand. 11 Desig- of xarel·lo, parellada and macabeo, whe- CO World Heritage), modernist wineries drinks wine, but rather tas- nations of Origin of wine and 1 of cava re to discover wines and cavas of large known as the “Cathedrals of wine”, and tes secrets”, said the bri- that allow the highly diverse wine sce- and small wineries, and traditions such the mediaeval town of Montblanc is one “W lliant Salvador Dalí. It was nery to be discovered. You can also visit as the castells (human towers). Moving of the best days out that can be planned. the Greeks who brought vine growing to more than 300 wineries, stroll through on to the districts of Tarragona, we come Just alongside, the DOQ Priorat, the the Empordà district, and then the Ro- the vineyards, enjoy a rich architectural to DO Tarragona, an area which already only Catalan qualified DO, it is region mans spread it to the southern lands. and cultural heritage or match wine with produced wine at the time of the Ro- with vineyards that grow on the precipi- gastronomy. mans, and which stands out for its mild ce with llicorella soils, kind of slate that THE 12 CATALAN DOs We start the route a step away from the climate and proximity to the sea, and gives wines full of spirituality and of in- A tour of the Catalan DOs is one of the city of Barcelona and by the sea, where borders on another three important wine ternational prestige. best prospects for seeing the idiosyn- we find the vineyards of theDO Alella, regions. On the one hand, the DO Con- Embracing it, the DO Montsant opens

46 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 47 THE ESSENTIAL WINE TOURISM EXPERIENCES TASTING WINES AND MAKING FRIENDS

Some are in modern buildings It’s a brilliant idea: a tasting that remind one of spacecraft. menu in the heart of Barcelona Others are beautiful fairytale-like and a group tasting of Catalan DO wines. Led by the sommelier farms. Some are internationally of Hotel Barcelona Catedral, the famous and others small family session reveals the secrets of businesses. And all, without ex- cava and Catalan wines through ception, offer a warm welcome to a game involving everyone in visitors as well as their excellent a team mission to discover the differences between cava and wines. other wines. This is a unique experience up to a world where family wi- specifically to theDO Pla de Bages, MAKING WINE that gets people talking and neries coexist and progress on with its dry stone wine presses and vi- 3 AN ADVENTURE interacting while at the same time immersing them in the world of NOT ONLY DO horizons marked by the extre- nes standing at the foot of Montserrat. Walking, cycling, segway, mountain wine and gastronomy. We also YOU HAVE TO me countryside of the Montsant Hill Between the Albera range and the sea, bike, 4x4, on horseback or even by TASTE THE offer cooking workshops to suit WINE, YOU range, where the village of Siurana is we are received by the Empordà, a pla- helicopter, kayak or yacht, there all tastes. MUST ALSO GO one of its symbols. Continuing wes- ce of great beauty with the spectacular are more and more activities that THROUGH THE VINEYARDS ON twards, we come to the wines produ- coastline of the Costa Brava and a CATHEDRALS OF WINE boost our adrenaline and keep our i For further information on A BICYCLE AND ced in Lleida, and specifically in theDO great environmental heritage. The DO To see the wine culture in bodies active. VISIT THE 1 these and other activities, go to: CATHEDRALS Costers del Segre, where the vines Empordà the land of Salvador Dalí, gi- Catalonia is to discover these great www.barcelonacatedral.com OF WINE wave in the winds from the Pyrenees ves wines with character, children of buildings known as ‘Cathedrals of THE BEST KEPT and where oil tourism is another of its the grenache red variety and the nor- wine’. Built in the early 20th century 4 SECRETS attractions. We will take the chance to thern winds. at the peak of modernist architec- To know the secrets of wine, both ENJOYING THE VINES discover the aromatic strength of its ture, they are called ‘cathedrals’ for in its production and its history, the 5 Obviously if the visit is at the red wines and the dry freshness of its We must also remember two desig- the size of their warehouses and best thing is to visit one of the mu- end of the summer or in autumn, har- whites. To the south, following the nations of origin that cover a large part the impressiveness of their struc- seums or visitor centres in the di- vest time, the activity focuses on course of the river Ebre, we will come of the area: the DO Catalunya, which ture. They were conceived by great fferent wine regions. The Celler picking the grapes and treading to the DO Terra Alta, with a millenary, adds up 50,000 ha of vineyards, and architects like Cèsar Martinell and Cooperatiu i Museu del Vi in L’Es- them to get their juice. A taste of re- though little known, history and wine the DO Cava, the sparkling wine made Puig i Cadafalch. pluga de Francolí or the Centre cently pressed must, sleeping under tradition. The modernist cooperatives especially with macabeo, xarel·lo and d’Interpretació del Cava in Sant the stars or enjoying a picnic and more than 20 km of greenways are parellada following the champenoise ON THE LAND Sadurní d’Anoia are just a couple of amongst the vines, strolling through added attractions. The circular route method, with its epicentre in Sant Sa- 2 Catalonia has more than them. the vineyards, smelling and tasting takes us back to inland Catalonia, durní d’Anoia, the capital of cava. 300 wineries that can be visited. their fruit are unforgettable activities.

48 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 49 OTHER DRINKS CRAFT- BARCELONA PRODUCED BEER FESTIVAL CRAFT BEER HAS COME IN STRONGLY. The sixth edition of the fair Catalonia is a country of traditions and over the years many THROUGHOUT THE (which will be held over the last COUNTRY THE weekend of March 2017) will be craft drinks have been made that are ideal to accompany the different meals PRODUCERS AND at a new venue at la Farga de SPECIALISED at different times of day. PREMISES MULTIPLY l’Hospitalet de Llobregat. With over 350 different barrel beers to taste in rotation, most of the local craft beers and a large selection of international eviously drunk by the pari- they pave a new way for the beer indus- quid is decanted, it is beers will be present, with shioners in the village bars, try, which has also been important in added sugar and wa- a special mention to the now there is no trendy group Catalonia since the early 19th century. ter and left to age in collaborating festivals, which will be Quebec, Vermont (United P that does not want to turn ver- Different events involve tasting a multi- wooden barrels for States), Lovaina (Belgium) and mouth into its plan. Vermouth, this wine tude of craft beers throughout the coun- another three months. Ólbia (Sardinia). with macerated herbs and served in try. The most important fair is the Bar- The result is an alco- aperitifs, is enjoying a true rebirth. celona Beer Festival, the largest holic drink of almost Reus was a pioneering city and in its meeting in the south of Europe for beer thirty degrees, a to- i For more information: production at the end of the 19th cen- lovers. ffee-like colour and www.barcelonabeerfestival.com tury, and in later decades, more than 30 sweet taste with a sli- companies of the area were set up to RATAFIA AND OTHER ALCOHOLS ghtly bitter touch. produce it. The tradition is now set out Related to the land and to many myths Ratafía is drunk as an aperitif or a di- in the Museu del Vermut of the same and legends, ratafía emerges with more gestive just as many other traditional city. than a thousand years of history, a drink drinks in Catalonia. that has become Catalonia's national In fact every Catalan region makes BEER, MORE ALIVE THAN EVER digestive spirit. Used in a multitude of its own, defining a close bond with the We are now experiencing a true boom cooking recipes, it is popularly said that countryside and local traditions. of craft beer in Catalonia. It was in 2010 as each family made its own, the reci- Another more modern example is rice THE VERMOUTH TRADITION HAS when these micro beer houses began to pes are infinite. liqueur, which is produced on the Delta STRONGLY proliferate, which play with flavours to It is made from tender walnuts mixed de l’Ebre. Without forgetting vi ranci, a RECOVERED. AT THE WEEKENDS, THE create original and unique beers. These with more than 40 different aromatic strong wine made with the ancient sol i PREMISES ARE firms are strongly linked to local tradi- plants. The result is macerated for at serena technique, in other words lea- FILLED TO ENJOY THIS EXPERIENCE tion and contemporary creativity and least two months in spirits. Then the li- ving the wine to age outside.

50 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 51 Hotel Terradets THROUGHOUT

THE COUNTRY Hotel l’Algadir del Delta

H BOUTIQUE HOTEL COSTA DAURADA CASA GRANADOS H HOTEL LA PLAÇA H HOTEL ANTIGA DE MADREMANYA H MASIA DEL CADET H C A L’A R PA H HOTEL MAS LA BOELLA H ES PORTAL HOTEL H HOTEL GRAN CLAUSTRE H HOTEL LLEVANT HOTELS H HOTEL CASAMAR TERRES DE L’EBRE H HOTEL EMPORDÀ BARCELONA H MAS SES VINYES H ANTIGA ESTACIÓ DE BENIFALLET H HOSTAL SA TUNA H HOTEL AMPOLLA SOL FOR LICKING H HOTEL ADAGIO H HOTEL EL MOLÍ H HOSTAL GASTRONÒMIC LA CREU H HOTEL RURAL NIU DE SOL H HOTEL RESTAURANT DIEGO PAISATGES H LA QUADRA H HOTEL L’ALGADIR DEL DELTA BARCELONA RESTAURANT HOTEL YOUR FINGERS H HOTEL ELS CAÇADORS PIRINEUS H MAS ALBEREDA DE MAÇANET When the urge to turn off reaches its peak, there is no doubt it is time to get H CA LA MANYANA H HOTEL RESTAURANT H HOTEL COTORI away to one of the more than 45 Catalan gastronomic hotels. H HOSTAL ESTRELLA EMPÒRIUM H HOTEL LA MORERA H HOTEL RESTAURANT CAN CUCH H MASIA LA PALMA H HOTEL VALL FERRERA H HOTEL RESTAURANT ANDRIA COSTA BARCELONA H HOTEL DEL PRADO his accommodation promotes an two pleasures can be combined with wine H HOTEL PARK PUIGCERDÀ authentic, traditional and creative tourism experiences that will reveal the foo- H HOTEL MAS TINELL H HOTEL EL MONEGAL gastronomy made with local pro- die side of Catalonia. Family management H FONDA EUROPA H HOTEL RESTAURANT ducts and the typical characteris- and personal treatment are two of the axes H HOSTAL DE LA PLAÇA ELS CAÇADORS Ttics of the territory and quality. Most of the on which the distinction is based, which is H HOTEL PRATS ingredients of the kitchens are recognised boasted around the country by five-star ho- COSTA BRAVA H FONDA XESC as with the Protected Designation of Origin tels, but also charming hostels and inns. H HOTEL CA L’AMAGAT and Protected Geographic Indication These are establishments with a maximum H SANT PERE DEL BOSC H CAN BOIX DE PERAMOLA stamps. Rest and good food are guaran- of 60 rooms to guarantee personalised at- HOTEL & SPA H HOTEL MUNTANYA & SPA teed in any of the gastronomic hotels. The tention for all guests. H EL FAR HOTEL RESTAURANT H HOTEL TERRADETS

52 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 53 Theresan nuns now houses one of the hotels with most character on the Costa Dorada. To complete the getaway ... THE BEST Visit Augustus Forum, a small, welcoming winery over the Medi- terranean. As well as wine, they GASTROMIC GETAWAYS make sweet and sour vinegar. You can try the two products on a visit.

H HOTEL MUNTANYA & SPA are local from the province of Gi- H HOTEL TERRADETS www.prullans.net rona. They also offer a short visit www.hotelterradets.com One warning: the terrace with views to the winery. One of the best corners for gastro- of the Pyrenees is highly addictive. nomic relaxation in the Pallars Jussà And its gastronomy too. Also every H HOTEL MAS LA BOELLA H HOTEL RESTAURANT DIEGO tings matched with cheese. The district. Located near Terradets Re- Friday the restaurant becomes a www. laboella.com www.hotelresaturantdie- activity is organised in the hotel's servoir, its restaurant offers contem- mediaeval tavern offering Cathar This is a historical 12th century go.com natural rock cellar. porary market cuisine with the dis- cuisine. country house whose cuisine turns Diego Arasa enthusiastically runs trict's gastronomic routes. To complete the getaway ... this hotel into a gastronomic must. It this gastronomic hotel where the H HOTEL L’ALGADIR To complete the getaway ... At the Cal Calsot farmhouse, the has a high range oil mill in which they treasure is the cuisine. Special at- DEL DELTA The singularity is what makes the herds are still led in the tradition bottle four different types. tention should be drawn to the www.hotelalgadirdelta.com Castell d’Encús winery different and with the ancestral knowledge To complete the getaway ... meats on the menu, most from Die- Its menu suggests up to 12 different at an altitude of almost 1000 m. of a family of the Pyrenees. You can watch how they make the go’s own farm. recipes based on the star product of You walk through a forest area to oil in Mas la Boella on a guided To complete the getaway ... the Terres de l’Ebre: seafood rice, one of the 8 fermentation presses H EL FAR HOTEL tour to the mill and the property. Immersion in the Terres de l’Ebre: ‘carnaroli’ rice in broth with Norway cut out of the rock in the 12th H CAN BOIX DE PERAMOLA RESTAURANT They cultivate 250 ha dedicated to bicycle ride along the Terra Alta lobster, rice with ribs and baby cutt- century, which the winery still www.canboix.cat www.hotelelfar.com three different olive varieties: ar- Greenway. The route crosses the lefish ... uses. La Serra d’Aubenç and Roc de Cògul It is worth staying here for the views bequina, arbosana and koroneiki. Pàndols and Cavalls hills fo- To complete the getaway ... act as a natural wall to separate the alone, but if you add the cuisine, a llowing the river Canaleta. The hotel organises a workshop external world from Can Boix. Its cui- visit to the Hotel El Far becomes a to show the whole rice process: sine has brought it international po- need. Just as the gastronomy is, H HOTEL RESTAURANT visit to the field, visit to a mill and pularity. The menu is completed with which is based on rice, fish and she- CAN CUCH aprons provided to prepare some an offer of wines and cavas of more llfish coming to the plate directly www.hotelcancuch.com rice dishes, with a glass in your than 400 references. from the fish auction in Palamós. In this typical Catalan country hou- hand. To complete the getaway ... To complete the getaway ... se, built before the 10th century, the L’Alt Urgell is a land of cheeses. A tasting of cheeses and wines at cuisine is delicate and avant-garde H HOTEL GRAN CLAUSTRE Two interesting sites to discover the Mas Oller winery. In this mat- based on the quality and excellence www.granclaustre.com this product in the district are the ching workshop, more than 10 of the raw materials. At the hand of the chef Jaume Dru- cheeseries of Mas d’Eroles, where cheeses are tasted, a risotto and To complete the getaway ... dis, its Mediterranean proposal with they make 12 different varieties, some desserts accompanied by The fashion of craft beers is here market products is a show to the and la Reula, where the same pro- wines of this historical winery of to stay. In Can Cuch they know palate and a feast to your eyes. The ducer guides us. the Empordà. All of the products this and organise craft beer tas- former 13th century residence of the

54 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 55 THE MUSEUMS, THE SHOWCASE OF OUR SELECTION OF MUSEUMS

and the history of the vineyards, the CULTURE true star characters. • VINSEUM (Vilafranca del Penedès) The present also has its place in these gastronomy research and www.vinseum.cat dissemination centres. Here are the keys to seeing the products, the Product: wine. preparations and the history of Catalan cuisine. In a former 12th century mediaeval palace, this space is conceived for visitors to experience all of the as- pects of the wine culture in Catalo- he history, traditions and gas- shop over 100 years old, find out how BARCELONA nia. tronomic culture of Catalonia oil was traditionally made and see pro- ODISSEA IN ÒPERA come together in different mu- ducts and preparations that haven't • MUSEU DE LA XOCOLATA COSTA BRAVA SAMFAINA T seums spread around a large changed in centuries. (Barcelona) www.museuxocolata.cat part of the country. Here you can disco- Product: chocolate. • ECOMUSEU-FARINERA Òpera Samfaina, the new gastronomic ver the Catalan sea and fishing tradi- A UNIVERSE TO DISCOVER This facility is in the former convent (Castelló d’Empúries) space in Barcelona’s Gran Teatre tion, how the traditional anchovies of Here we present a selection of the gas- of Sant Agustí, in the Born district of www.ecomuseu-farinera.org del Liceu, is a must for any art and gastronomy devotee, offering visitors l’Escala are made, and the history of tronomic museums around the whole of Barcelona. It presents a tour of the Product: wheat and flour. an Odyssey adventure, where the Catalan wine and cava. And you can Catalonia. Here you can go into the origins of chocolate, its arrival in Eu- A show of how the men and women senses take centre stage. also travel back in time and go into a more curious, secret and fascinating rope and its promotion as a product who grew wheat lived and still live The experience begins with an IN CATALONIA explanation of the activity programme THERE ARE aspects of Catalan cuisine. To get a between myth and reality, between and of the flour trade in the Empor- SEVERAL MUSEUMS deeper view of millenary products like its medicinal properties and its nu- dà. The building forms part of the in the Vermouth Bar, which includes DEVOTED the chance to sample a selection of oil, wine and honey, fish, wheat, salt tritive value. Inventory of Architectural Heritage TO FISHING AND delicious products. Then, on with the ITS FRUIT and preparations such as chocolate of Catalonia and was originally a hy- show: an immersive sensory spectacle, and nougat and non-food materials but BARCELONA COAST draulic mill that drew water from the designed by Franc Aleu, with El intimately related with gastronomic cul- Muga River. Celler de Can Roca chef, Jordi Roca, ture such as cork, thanks to which we CIC FASSINA CENTRE D’INTERPRE- appearing as an animated character • in a 360° projection. As they watch enjoy sparkling wines like cava. To dis- TACIÓ DEL CAVA (Sant Sadurní d’Anoia) MUSEU DE L’ANXOVA I DE LA SAL • the film, visitors will be invited to taste cover how the production of each ingre- www.turismesantsadurni.com (l’Escala) www.visitlescala.com six culinary delicacies paired with dient has changed from ancient times Product: cava. Product: anchovies. six wines, all selected by the Roca to our days and to become aware of Located in a former distillery built in This small bluefish is the main featu- brothers. how they have influenced history in ge- 1814, the Centre offers us the ori- re of this museum that shows the For more information: neral and more specifically the history gins of this sparkling wine produced history of its fishing and salting sin- i www.operasamfaina.com of Catalan cuisine. along the champenoise method, ce mediaeval times, something

56 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 57 • MUSEU DEL SURO www.hospitalet-valldellors.cat king, to improving food habits and • MUSEU DE L’ANTIGA FARINERA cessary hydraulic energy to run the (Palafrugell) www.museudelsuro.cat Product: oil. to assessing the food and gastro- (Montferrer) whole complex. The mill, which Product: cork. Located in Vandellós Mill, we can nomic heritage. A centre with a www.montferrercastellbo.cat supplied flour to the residents until This is located in what was former- see the original machinery and social vocation which offers wor- Product: wheat and flour the nineteen sixties, has been res- ly the most important cork factory also listen to the accounts of the kshops and guided tours. An irrigation channel was used to tored with the original elements. in Spain, and aims to preserve, in- millers. A historical building with a give energy to a flour mill at the be- which has turned l’Escala into a uni- terpret and revalue the heritage of modern museum exhibition invites • PARC CULTURAL ginning of the 20th century. Today TERRES DE L’EBRE que enclave on the Catalan coast. the world of cork in Catalonia, an us to discover and explore the DE LA MUNTANYA DE LA SAL we can see the facilities with the element that has shaped a sce- world of oil on audiovisual panels, (Cardona) original wooden machinery, to see • CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ APÍCOLA • MUSEU DE LA CUINA DE LA COSTA nery, formed an industry and a audio guides and soundtracks. www.cardonaturisme.cat the traditional process of turning MÚRIA CATALANA (Tossa de Mar) way of life. Product: salt. wheat into high-quality flour. (El Perelló) www.melmuria.com www.infotossa.com • LA COFRARIA. CENTRE D’INTER- The cultural park is in the former Product: honey. Product: Catalan cuisine. COSTA DAURADA PRETACIÓ DEL CALAFELL PESCADOR potash salt mine, which was one • MUSEU DE LES TREMENTINAIRES In order to disseminate the culture Open in 2016, this displays a tradi- (Calafell) www.turisme.calafell.cat of the most important in the world. (Tuixent) www.trementinaires.org and tradition of the world of honey tional Catalan cuisine and a chiller • CASTELL DEL VI Product: Sealife Product: traditional remedies and bees, this centre offers a tour dug out of the rock. It organises rou- (Falset) www.turismepriorat.org The building of the former brother- PIRINEUS The ‘trementinaires’ were primitive of different spaces where the new tes, workshops and gastronomic ex- Product: wine. hood of fishermen has become an therapists who travelled around technologies allow visitors an inte- periences. This museum is located in the for- interpretation centre of the collecti- • CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ DE Catalonia with their herbs and re- ractive and didactic view of the mer castle of the Counts of Prades, ve past of the sea district, to see L’ANTIC COMERÇ I BOTIGUES MUSEU medies they collected and made in world of beekeeping. • MUSEU DE LA CONFITURA in Falset, raised in the 12th century how the community lived and was DE SALÀS their villages in the Pyrenees. In ad- (Torrent) www.museuconfitura.com after the Christian reconquest of structured. (Salàs de Pallars) dition to extensive information on • MUSEU DE L’ARRÒS MOLÍ DE RAFELET Product: jam. new Catalonia. The Castell del Vi http://salas.ddl.net these health professionals, the mu- (Deltebre) Those responsible for this museum takes up three floors of this ancient • EL MUSEU DEL VERMUT Product: daily consumer goods. seum offers courses, workshops www.moliderafelet.com say that everything started with a fortress and offers a tour of the (Reus) www.museudelvermut.com It presents the recreation of shops and a botanical garden. Product: rice. lemon tree that gave such a lot of wine culture of the Priorat in a way Product: vermouth and establishments as they were This has the only mill built in wood fruit that a way had to be found to not suggested by the more classi- The treasure of a collector who for years ago in a small mountain vi- • SERRADORA I MUSEU FARINER that is still running on the Delta de preserve it. The museum also gives cal wine museums. three decades has collected ob- llage, with furniture, posters, ob- (Àreu) www.serradora-areu.org l’Ebre. It is managed by a family temporary displays and courses for jects related to the world of ver- jects and even original products. Product: flour. business which makes rice in limi- different levels. This is the place for • CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ DELS mouth: posters, barrels, bottles This is located in an ancient ted production in a traditional craft jam lovers. FRUITS DEL PAISATGE (Riudecanyes) and different merchandising. This • MUSEU DE GERRI DE LA SAL two-storey stone building where manner. www.cooperativariudecanyes.com is a restaurant-museum whose (Gerri de la Sal) the sawmill was on one side and a • MUSEU DE LA PESCA Product: hazelnuts, olives. speciality is naturally vermouth and http://baixpallars.ddl.net flour mill on the other with the clas- TERRES DE LLEIDA (Palamós) www.museudelapesca.org Located in the former mill of the aperitifs. Product: salt sical waterwheel producing the ne- Product: fish. Riudecanyes cooperative, the mu- The existence of a salt water • MUSEU DEL TORRÓ I LA XOCOLATA In Palamós, the fishing world does seum gives us a new view of the PAISATGES BARCELONA spring in the municipality made (Agramunt) www.vicens.com not end at the quay, but continues inland scenery of the Costa Dorada salt its most prosperous business. Product: nougat. in the museum that gives us a tour and the fruit of man's work, such as • MÓN SANT BENET-FUNDACIÓ ALÍCIA Located in the Casa de la Sal, The whole universe of nougat and of the past, present and future of the vegetables, dried fruit and oli- (Sant Fruitós de Bages) which is the most important the history of the Vicens family, this sea activity through a series of ves. www.alicia.cat non-religious building in the dis- who have made this product for a activities related to the historically Product: Catalan cuisine. trict, a visit allows us to see how century. A recreation of the factory more defining character of the Cos- • CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ DE L’OLI This is a research centre devoted this edible mineral has been pro- from 1933 can be visited, with di- ta Brava. DE LA VALL DE LLORS (Vandellós) to technological innovation in coo- cessed since mediaeval times. fferent ancient machines.

58 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 59 SELECTION OF EVENTS

BARCELONA markets of Barcelona and the main features are the Catalan local in- • BARCELONA BEER FESTIVAL gredients such as wine, fish, shell- (Barcelona) March fish, cold meat and cheeses, and Product: Craft beer. bread and pastries recently taken The most important beer festival in from the oven. the south of Europe, dedicated to ENJOY craft beer from all around the BARCELONA COAST IN THE BEST world. A unique opportunity to COMPANY also try the best Catalan craft • TEMPS DE VI beers. (Vilanova i la Geltrú) June Throughout the year there are Product: Wine and cava. a series of events not to be missed. Firstly because the MOSTRA DE VINS I CAVES DE This offers more than forty stands, • meals offered are a delight. CATALUNYA musical performances and a singu- But also because they are (Barcelona) September lar activity: tastings on the high meetings to enjoy family and Product: Wine and cava. seas. friends in a festive and relaxed A showcase of the new products of atmosphere. We are talking about the calçotades, xatonades, the Catalan designations of origin VIJAZZ • botifarrades and costellades GASTRONOMIC and an interesting way to learn (Vilafranca del Penedès) July (barbecues), generally held in the about the wine culture. Product: DO Penedés wine and open air and allowing us to cook, EVENTS, FAIRS AND FESTIVALS DO Cava. eat, drink and share experiences • MERCAT DE MERCATS In the first weekend of July, in the and good humour with a dish in your hand. Nothing is too much (Barcelona) October town's historic centre everything is Catalonia can be toured through the different gastronomic fairs and festivals effort when it comes to attending Product: Fresh food. changed for everyone who wants one of these meals. held the length and breadth of the country. A pleasant way to discover the Products are displayed from the to enjoy wine and the best jazz. gastronomic culture.

he country has a large offer of A fair is a marvellous excuse to plan a • HARVEST FESTIVAL gastronomic events and festivals gastronomic getaway, to try the local ingre- (Alella) September related to the products of the di- dients and, talking to the producers, get a Product: DO Alella wines. T fferent lands and in accordance first-hand view of how the products we eat Three exciting days to walk the vi- with the time of year. These events are the are made. A gastronomic festival allows us neyards, enjoy an early morning best way to experience the country through to approach the territory and its local cus- tasting, tread grapes, enjoy the the tastes, the conversations and the mee- toms and culture through its gastronomy gastronomic show ... and other tings between friends and residents. and wines. proposals related to the culture.

60 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 61 • CAVATAST • GALERADA POPULAR AL PORT of the south of Catalonia. They as different products of these September fair has been held with the liquid (Sant Sadurní d’Anoia) (Cambrils) February offer wine matching and tapas lands, and craftsmen show their Product: Rice. gold as its main feature, with more October Product: Crayfish. made by the restaurants of Cam- skills. The different techniques for har- than 5,000 m² of exhibition area Product: Cava. A gastronomic meeting including brils, as well as free guided tas- vesting rice as it was done yester- for traders and producers of oil Cava lovers stroll through the fair guided tours of the Brotherhood of ting, children's workshops and PIRINEUS year are reproduced. Musical per- from all over the country. with glass in hand, enjoying the di- Fishermen, culinary workshops for musical shows. formances and popular meals are fferent novelties and the delicious young chefs and sailing demons- • FIRA DE SANT ERMENGOL also held. • APLEC DEL CARGOL culinary proposals. trations, amongst other activities. • FIRA DE L’OLI DOP SIURANA (La Seu d’Urgell) (Lleida) May DE REUS - FESTA DE L’OLI NOU October • FESTA DEL VI Product: Snail cuisine. COSTA BRAVA • FIRA DEL VI DE LA COMARCA (Reus) Product: Pyrenean cheese. (Gandesa) This is a great and widely attended DEL PRIORAT November This brings in more than forty craft October or November popular festival that has the snail • VIVID - FESTIVAL DEL VI (Falset) April or May Product: DOP Siurana olive oil. cheese makers from all across the Product: DO Terra Alta wine. as its gastronomic product. (Costa Brava) April Product: DOQ Priorat and DO This is the first fair where atten- Pyrenees, from the Mediterranean Around the Gandesa Cooperative, Product: DO Empordà wine. Montsant wines. dees have the chance to try and to the Atlantic and both sides of the different wineries of the region • FESTA DEL VI DE LLEIDA This includes wine tasting, activi- The wineries will give their wines buy more than twenty different the range. Talks and workshops set up their stalls and offer their (Lleida) October ties in nature, meals with mat- for trying while talks, beginners’ oils of the Siurana Designation of are given at the same time. wines for tasting. During the festi- Product: DO Costers del Segre ching, open days and wine therapy tasting workshops, winery open Origin. val there are talks, concerts, mee- wine. treatments. days and matching sessions are • FIRA ORÍGENS tings of traditional culture, dances Coinciding with the harvest and held. PAISATGES BARCELONA (Olot) November and popular meals. the arrival of the new vintage, Llei- • ARRELS DEL VI Product: Gourmet products and da receives wine tasting and other (Sant Martí d’Empúries) • FIRA DEL VI DO TARRAGONA • MERCAT DEL RAM I LACTIUM, cuisine. TERRES DE LLEIDA parallel fun and wine activities. May or June (Tarragona) June EL SALÓ DEL FORMATGE Where the chefs of the area offer Product: DO Empordà wine. Product: DO Tarragona wine. (Vic) March or April live cooking sessions, demonstra- • FIRA DE L’OLI DE QUALITAT • FESTA DE LA VEREMA A unique opportunity to taste and A weekend to try more than a hun- Product: Agricultural products te their latest creations and re- VERGE EXTRA DE LES GARRIGUES I EL VI DE VERDÚ buy wine jewels at winery prices. dred wines, cavas and vermouths and Catalan craft cheese. commend the best local products. (Les Borges Blanques) (Verdú) October of the Alt Camp, Baix Camp, Tarra- A great festival in which there are January Product: Grapes and wine • MOSTRA DEL VI DE L’EMPORDÀ gonés and Ribera d’Ebre districts. livestock displays, agricultural TERRES DE L’EBRE Product: DOP Les Garrigues olive A festival with great participation (Figueres) September products, fun cultural and com- oil. and activities for everyone such as Product: DO Empordà wine. • FESTA DE LA VEREMA mercial activities. Here is Lac- • FESTA DE LA PLANTADA DE Les Borges Blanques is the oil ca- the vine throwing contest, the pit- This is attended by the best wine- (L’Espluga de Francolí) August tium, the craft cheese show. L’ARRÒS pital of Catalonia and for more cher lifting contest and the carrier ries of the region and other local Product: DO Conca de Barberà (Amposta, Deltebre, l’Ampolla and than fifty years, the place where a race, amongst others. producers of food and craft pro- wine. • FESTA DE LA VEREMA DEL BAGES Sant Jaume d’Enveja) June ducts. This festival offers dinners with (Artés) October Product: Rice. matching, music, visits to vine- Product: DO Pla de Bages wine. This traditional festival, staging COSTA DAURADA yards and thematic tasting, such It began as a simple way to pro- how rice was sown in the 19th cen- as the SUB25, especially planned mote the wineries and their pro- tury, aims to recover some of the • GRAN FESTA DE LA CALÇOTADA for the youngsters. ducts and has ended up as a great manifestations of the popular cul- (Valls) January tribute to wine and the vineyards ture of the Delta de l’Ebre. Product: Calçot. • CAMBRILS, ENTRADA AL PAÍS DEL VI of this district. During the festival With a varied programme of tradi- (Cambrils) October too, the history of wine is the the- • FESTA DE LA SEGA tional acts and contests related to Product: wine me behind street shows, hi- (Amposta, Deltebre, l’Ampolla the calçot. A fair for trying the different DOs gh-quality wines are tasted as well and Sant Jaume d’Enveja)

62 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 63 Catalan gastronomy to show first-hand KNOWLEDGE AND FLAVOUR where what we consume is born. It pro- IN A WEEKEND poses an event one weekend of the year, The meeting organises guided activi- in which producers from all around the ties, and farm operations all around the country open the doors to their houses to country can be visited, special menus show us their fields, their herds and their tried with local products in select res- installations. taurants and accommodation can be enjoyed with special offers for the occa- A PIONEERING PROJECT IN CATALONIA sion, as well as the different organised This initiative started in 2016 with the aim activities. of becoming an annual meeting at which Over the weekend, the public can visit farms, see herds, wi- the visitors, very near neries, olive fields, honey and cider pro- to their homes, can ducers, growers of aromatic plants, fi- discover an unknown shermen, vegetable gardens, etc. try the world of scenery, tra- products and even take them home. ditions and products which are the base of “BENVINGUTS A PAGÈS” Catalan gastronomy. MORE INFORMATION Benvingutsapages.cat the website that offers THE ORIGINS additional details of THE ‘BAP’ the products and pro- PRODUCTS Discovering where the products we eat each day are produced ducers, photographs of the event and com- During the ‘Benvinguts A Pagès’ (Welcome to the farm) event, it is pos- gives us another approach to the rural world: its lands, its people, plementary informa- sible to visit my producers of rice and its traditions, what they produce and how they make it. tion. other cereals (especially in the Terres de l’Ebre and l’Empordà districts), meat and cold meats (throughout practically the whole country), dried fruit (in Terres de Lleida, Costa nderstanding the cycles of na- THE ORIGIN OF THE PRODUCTS Daurada and Terres de l’Ebre), oil and ture, focusing on the authenti- “Benvinguts a pagès” (Welcome to my olives (throughout the country), aro- city of the products on the farm) suggests a weekend for visiting di- matic herbs and honey (the length and craft processes and the singu- fferent agricultural and livestock farms and breadth of Catalonia), fish and shellfish U (on the coast), cheeses and dairy larity of each space ... this all gives us a enjoying the best menus with products products (especially in mountainous new perspective of both gastronomy and that are sensitive to the environment. areas) and wine and cava (in virtually lifestyle in general. In this context, expe- This is an initiative of the Fundació Alí- ALL OF THE FAMILY the whole country), without forgetting riential tourism related to food production cia and the Generalitat de Cataluña go- CAN ENJOY THE the excellent fresh fruit of Terres de is a good way to take a look at local cul- vernment in order to revalue the rural ACTIVITY DURING Lleida, to name but a few examples. THE WEEKEND tures. world, inland tourism and the potential of OF WELCOME TO MY FARM

64 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 65 THE MOST SUSTAINABLE GASTRONOMIC TOURISM THE VISITORS Gastronomy is an essential value of tourist activity. In Catalonia, it has been ALREADY ENJOY SUSTAINABLE decided to respect producers, the territory and mainly those who enjoy the PROPOSALS The local markets give us the chance to SUCH AS WELCOME journey. buy food direct from producers. And this is TO MY FARM a true luxury. Who better than the person who has made the cheese with the milk atalonia has been the first inte- territory’s other commitments with the from his herd, to transmit the emotions we gral tourist destination on the natural environment, means winning in will feel when we try it? Proposals such as planet to achieve Biosphere quality. Welcome to my Farm, fishing tourism or C certification, a stamp with in- This is a country in which we, the inha- visiting wineries producing organic, biody- ternational recognition. bitants, are proud and want to share and namic wines or of integrated production This stamp has also been awarded to enjoy the diversity of scenery that the can offer these kinds of emotions. The big- the Catalan towns of Sitges and Barcelo- country offers for a long time, looking af- gest advantage of these added value pro- na, and to the Vall d’Aran. ter it in the same way as we look after our posals is that they guarantee that travellers guests. can repeat their enjoyment, that in one year A WINNING WAGER For travellers, to choose Catalonia is to or in twenty, any changes will have been for For travellers, choosing the tourist offer have the guarantee of full enjoyment of the better. In other words, these proposals under the Biosphere stamp and all of the their visit, like having the coordinates of are for today and the future. IN CATALONIA the start of the path to happiness. WE SEEK TO RECONCILE TOURIST SHORT DISTANCE GASTRONOMY INTERESTS WITH And the same thing goes for the gastro- CATALONIA OFFERS MANY EXPERIENCES SUSTAINABILITY nomy: local ingredients, organic produc- The destination has worked and continues to work so that the physical and communication tion and bought directly from producers barriers are no longer an obstacle for enjoying the tourist activities; there are already many guarantee that the dishes will become the different activities adapted so that the disabled and impaired or people with special needs can best expression of a territory. To stay in a enjoy them. Accommodation, beaches, restaurants, museums, natural spaces, emblematic buildings and activities like ballooning, discovering the world of wine, skiing or diving are within small rural hotel with its own production everyone's reach. of vegetables, milk and eggs is to enjoy a complete experience that nobody should i More information. turismeperatothom.catalunya.com miss.

66 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 67 É NAST TR ND AV O EL GASTRONOMIC ROUTES C E S R IO 2 0 M 1 E 6 R P RECOMMENDED BY

TRUTH IN TRAVEL THE TRAVELER MAGAZINE

68 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 69 ROUTE 1 A REGION TOUCHED BY THE GODS THE PERFECT The Greeks realised that Empúries had it all: sun, sea, and invigorating wind, COMBINATION: THE IMPRESSIVE fertile land and mountains. The Alt Empordà, Baix Empordà SCENERY OF THE COSTA BRAVA and Maresme districts are the worthy inheritors of their character. Then, one can knowingly enjoy a AND A VISIT TO THE suquet, a shellfish meal, a rice dish CITY OF GIRONA. or baked fish. If you are lacking in appetite or need a good digestion, or tal paths. Every so often touches of THE SEA OF TASTE simply want to enjoy the scenery, paradise are perceived: pines, rocks, Palamós and Roses ports are the you should take the coastal path that the emerald and turquoise colour of main harbours on the Costa Brava. leaves Palamós northbound and GIRONA the waters... The Greeks had such In the morning in Palamós, the blue- takes you to Castell beach, another good taste that they set up their Em- fish auction is held. In the afternoon, that should appear amongst the púries here, in front of one of the best the offer is widened to all fish and best. beaches on the Costa Brava. shellfish: shrimps, mussels, cuttlefi- Wine has been produced in the Em- sh, sea urchins, mullet come under GIRONA Products: pordà for thousands of years as the vi- the eyes of the buyers. From the Although this is an inland city, it Shrimps from Palamós, DOP Empordà Oil, DO Empordà Wine nes came with the Hellenic colonisers. Museu de la Pesca they organise vi- appears as a necessary stage. All of Another crop that came with the sits to see how the pieces are bou- the gastronomic products seen on Try: Celler de Can Roca, in Girona Greeks was that of the olives, and it is ght and also to show what, how and the way can be bought at the Lleó seu del Cinema or obviously the Ce- restaurants, a vegetable garden with and Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar still alive. The resulting oil is covered where fishing occurred, occurs and market. If anyone is hungry when ller de Can Roca, twice elected the strawberries, peas and mongetes del by its own protected designation of will occur. they get there they should try a best restaurant in the world. ganxet (white beans) with protected Essentials: Visit a winery origin. Fruit abounds in the lower ba- ‘xuixo’, a sweet pastry filled gene- designation of origin next to the mo- of the DO Empordà sin of the Ter River. In Pals, a village rously with cream, a finely fried suga- EL MARESME dernist buildings of Gaudí, Puig i Ca- that has to be visited just like its nei- red fritter. It was born in the city with We leave southwards and come to dafalch and Domènech i Montaner. THE BEST SELECTED EMPORIUM ghbouring Peratallada and Monells, a universal vocation. the Costa de Barcelona, to the Ma- And when Barcelona comes into Just as Salvador Dalí used his canva- they have recovered rice crops with a The city preserves its walls, Gothic resme district, where the most de- sight, we are in reach of the vine- ses to set out the sky of Cap de Creus result that will satisfy the most de- cathedral, Romanesque convent and manding of palates can stop at the yards of the Alella Designation of Ori- and Cadaqués, the same scenery ins- manding of palates. 19th-century relaxation. It carefully Carme Ruscalleda’s Santa Pau res- gin. This is the smallest designation pired the creation of the El Bulli restau- And now that we have come to the preserves its memory, such as the taurant in Sant Pol de Mar. It has of origin in Catalonia and the closest rants, which has reaped so many suc- ruins of Empúries, we have to stop at ancient streets of the call (Jewish three Michelin stars. to Barcelona, where elegant light, cesses. To discover this land, all you the village of L’Escala to try its ancho- quarter), but is also very modern. By The path runs alongside the Medi- perfumed and crystal-clear white wi- have to do is to follow one of the coas- vies. way of example, the magnificent Mu- terranean. There is an abundance of nes are bottled.

70 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 71 SCENERY, FAUNA AND FLORA IN THE AIGÜESTORTES ROUTE 2 I ESTANY DE SANT MAURICI NATIONAL PARK SUBSISTENCE CUISINE HIGH MOUNTAIN When there were no freezers or vacuum packers and transport was limited to a cart pulled by animals, the aim of the people PLEASURES of the mountains was to assure sustenance during the winter The highest mountains, the wild river waters and the months of snow months. There were several methods. Firstly, the milk was ask for substantial feeding. And the reply comes from the Pallars Jussà and turned into cheese, much Pallars Sobirà, Ribagorça and Val d’Aran districts. easier to preserve. Then the meat supplies were assured by different methods. Turning it into cooked and dried meats was one of the most habitual methods, paraglider or to climb. A gentler returned and are now protected by an abundance of corners, forest of humble and perfect and inside they but confit or preservation in the fat, was another method used. AIGÜESTORTES stroll can take in a large collection of the Costers del Segre Designation firs or black pines with rhododen- house masterpieces: a descent from What at one time was a means Romanesque churches: Santa Ma- of Origin. drons at their feet … Nature impo- the Cross sculpted in Erill la Vall, and of survival has now become ria de Covet, Santa Maria de Llimia- All of these delights are presen- ses itself in the national park, ma- the Christ the creator of Sant Climent delicatessen. na, Santa Maria de Mur, Santa Maria ted by the cooks of the La Xicoia king walkers feel small. in Taüll. As a complex, it is necessa- de Gerri and Sant Joan d’Isil. In any gastronomic association, which ga- The main entrances are in Espot rily classified as UNESCO World He- case, the invigorating mountain air thers fourteen restaurants of the Pa- and Boí. But there are many other ritage. will have opened your appetite. llars district. To finish, a few drops of entrances for anyone who knows To round off the visit, it is enough Products: The xolís is the most common ratafía help to digest. how to use their legs. The rewards to try the bread from Llesp, the jams cold meats, dairy products, trout, game cold meat, made of pork, salt and always exceed the effort. and the honey, to take a stroll pepper. They also make secallona AIGÜESTORTES I ESTANY DE SANT The route known as Carros de around the meadows and withdraw Try: A selection of craft cheeses (very thin sausage), panxeta (lard), MAURICI NATIONAL PARK Foc passes by the nine mountain to the spa in Caldes de Boí. from Catalonia, in Sort liver cake (like the French pâté de Valleys formed by the glaciers, huts in the park. It is more than 50

Essentials: campagne) and meats preserved in peaks of over 3000 m, tens of lakes, km long, with an accumulated climb VAL D’ARAN Trying Aranese caviar oil. Another of the most renowned of more than 9000 metres. It is hard, Although it is known for its ski slo- cold meats in the country is girella, requires experience and good equi- pes, it has many other attractions as which is made with lamb. pment, but there are many other seen by anyone who follows the Ca- A GOOD EXCUSE The rivers provide trouts, the routes depending on one's interest min Reiau, which starts in Vielha and meat, egg and flour. The gastro- We suggest a circular route starting sheep contribute with a large re- and capacity. passes through the valley’s thir- nomy also includes the Aranese pâ- from the heart of the area: the Ai- pertoire of cheeses, and throu- ty-three villages. tés. And what about the high moun- güestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici ghout the area, they have chosen A HUMBLE UNIVERSAL LEGACY Another option is to look for the tain cows’ cheeses? And to content National Park, from whence the four to produce organic meats. The po- At the top of the Boí Valley, everything best òlha aranesa, this soup that even the most demanding of pala- districts start. tatoes from Llessui, which grow at feels nearer heaven. Nine Romanes- has a little of everything. It is tes, they even breed sturgeons from The slopes and peaks of the two 1700 m, are gaining in fame. Even que temples are erected there. The cooked on low heat and in the end the Siberian Lake Baikal to produce Pallars invite one to walk, to fly on a the high mountain vineyards have bare stone is left on the outside, is added the pilota of pork mince caviar.

72 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 73 ROUTE 3 GREEN CAVIAR

The olives, so abundant and tasty in Catalonia, are highly A TASTY JOURNEY appreciated. Those of Arbeca (a village in the Les Garrigues district in Lleida that gives one of the TO THE CATALAN WEST most famous oil DOPs its name), harvested without maturing, are called green caviar. They are There is a land where the predominant colour is yellow: the yellow of the wheat generally presented alone, as an aperitif, in salads, in paté to spread fields, the yellow of the oil, the yellow of the sunsets, the yellow on bread or cooked in recipes such of the tasty cheeses and the best liqueurs. as duck with olives. The famous arbequina extra virgin olive oil is also drawn from them, renowned for its delicious aroma THIS IS A LITTLE- KNOWN AREA of dried fruit and a sophisticated the sixties created an unpreceden- Costers del Segre designation of ori- ENTERING HERE flavour that enhances any dish. ted formula: the Ratafia of the Raiers. gin, which covers the areas of Rai- GIVES AN ADDED The oil is extracted cold by ADVANTAGE, THAT pressing, avoiding any chemical LLEIDA It is said that the raiers (rafters) took mat, Segrià, Pallars Jussà, Artesa, OF ENJOYING THE treatment. a good shot of ratafía before laun- Valls del Riu Corb and Les Garrigues, ADVENTURE OF DISCOVERY ching themselves down the river dri- each with different geographic and SNAILS AND NOUGAT, ving the trunks. climatic conditions, the mountains MASS PHENOMENA Following the river, in the small villa- alternating with the plains. We now go to Agramunt, a village ge of Basturs, there is a cheese store which is synonymous of nougat Products: where they continue to wager on tradi- MYSTIC PLEASURES AND and also of stone chocolate. The DOP Les Garrigues oil, tion. What better than getting up fa- FLAVOURS tradition dates back to the Middle DO Costers del Segre wine, Agramunt IGP nougat, honey cing the Pyrenees with the aroma of a After the tasting, we continue on our Ages, and every autumn this village slice of toasted rustic bread sprinkled adventure, going down to a place becomes the stage for the Nougat Try: The Aplec del Cargol with arbequina olive oil? The fact is where the scenery becomes friend- Fair. To see the process of making that in Lleida they make one of the ly. El Congost de Mont-Rebei and these sweets, to visit the different Essentials: Trying Arbequina olive oil best oils in the world, with the Les Ga- Àger, from where to enjoy the best nougat factories in Agramunt, is a rrigues, L’Urgell and El Segrià districts starry nights in the Montsec Astro- unique experience in Catalonia. as the champions of production. nomic Park, give way to another there is a cheese store that has And finally we come to the city of BREAKFAST FACING THE MOUN- type of scenery: the cereals and been internationally awarded. Rea- Lleida, a perfect place to try one of Elysées become the stage of the TAINS A GLASS OF WINE fields of poppies alternating with ching the Monastery of Vallbona de the star dishes of these lands: snai- Aplec del Caragol 's mail meeting. We start the route in la Pobla de Se- AND A STROLL IN THE CLOUDS small elevations where mediaeval les Monges, one of the most inte- ls, which in many restaurants of the Around a hundred groups, the snai- gur, in the shadow of the Pyrenees, a We continue on our route and pass castles boldly reign. One of the resting Western cultural enclaves, area are prepared in the llauna, or ls and the music lead this meeting place of cult in the history of the Ca- the Castell d’Encus, between la Po- most interesting is that of Montso- there are some vines cultivated by roast, which is the most traditional which, with more than 12,000 talan liqueur that has its own name. bla de Segur and Tremp. An ideal nís. On the way to the convent of the people of the Cooperativa L’Oli- recipe. Since 1980 and over one group members and around Joan Portet started to work in a li- place to see how vines are cultivated the Císter it is recommendable to vera, an initiative of social integra- weekend in the month of May, the 200,000 visitors, has become a queur store founded in 1884, and in at altitude. This wine belongs to the stop at Palau d’Anglesola, where tion recognised in Europe. Segre riverbank and the Champs true mass phenomenon.

74 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 75 ROUTE 4 A TOUCH OF SOFTNESS

TRAVELLING BETWEEN With flour, eggs, sugar, a touch of salt and no yeast, one of Vic’s traditional desserts is made. Another of its traditions, the VALLEYS AND MOUNTAINS processions, gave its name to the sponge: the residents Lands of tortuous orography, with thick-walled country houses and scarce shared pinches of it while they watched the processions fields, the people who live there are proud of their roots and traditions and pass. The pa de pessic (pinch of the products they offer visitors. bread) is a kind of sponge that is soft on the inside and of firm consistence. The key to its softness lies in separating THE GASTRONOMIC the whites from the yolks in its A FEW FIRST DROPS sed with your eyes closed. The Pla- PLEASURES preparation, and whipping them OF THE AREA RIVAL with a little water and salt. IN THE SHADOW OF MONTSERRAT na de Vic is one of them. Its main THE SCENIC They are usually presented in There is no better way to get to industry comes in through the nose lamb and cold meats. In the discussion VIC individual sponges wrapped know these lands than with a glass and is tasted in slices. They have on what cold meats are best, each villa- in baking paper. of picapoll. This local grape varie- always made cold meats there in the ge protects its own and wagers on qua- ty, which gives the fruity white most diverse shapes and flavours. lity. The same happens with ratafía, the wine with a fresh aroma and crisp The discussion on the finesse of walnut and herb liqueur. The travellers texture, has been preserved in the each one would be interminable. are those who come off best. Products: DO Pla de Bages. Some wineries However, we can highlight the llon- Upstream on the river Ter, we are Vic IGP sausage Llonganissa, DO Pla de Bages wine, Santa Pau IGP beans are also recovering the red picapo- ganissa (sausage), under the Protec- awaited by another two necessary ll, sumoll or mandó varieties for the ted Geographic Indication (IGP). The stops: the monastery of Sant Joan de Try: Les Cols restaurant red wines. method is the same as that used in les Abadesses and the village of Cam- This region of central Catalonia the country houses since goodness ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER TER prodon, with its mediaeval bridge and Essentials: Visit Vic market has a rich Romanesque architec- knows when. To control the ventila- The Ripollès region is entered by fo- the Romanesque monastery of Sant tural heritage. The ancient monas- tion and damp, to know which win- llowing the river Ter. The force of water Pere. tery of Sant Benet del Bages is the dows to open or close, just a few gave life to steelmaking, the Catalan quarters of a foundation dedicated centuries of experience are needed. Forge, which had its capital in Ripoll. A WHERE THE LAND SHAKES to the study and dissemination of Vic has more attractions, such as sample of its production is the collec- If you were looking for the essence of the tected Designation of Origin. Mediterranean and particularly of the essential Museu Episcopal with tion of firearms in the Museu Etnogrà- mountains, you will find it easily in la Ga- Olot, the capital, rose from its as- Catalan gastronomy. its Romanesque and Gothic collec- fic. Ripoll also has a prime Romanes- rrotxa, which means broken land, bad to hes after the earthquakes of the 15th tion, and the cathedral with the co- que monastery with a monumental tread on. But the district also includes century. It lost its Romanesque, but it THE CATHEDRAL OF COLD MEATS lossal paintings by Josep M. Sert. porch. the Volcanic Area Natural Park. Its fertile was replaced with vitality, its list of We don't know whether there is any But it will be strolling which will bring Forests, steeper slopes and higher soil produces a unique buckwheat, cold meats, the Volcanic Cuisine other, but in any case there are very the most indelible memory, and es- mountains bring the palate mus- black turnips and the fesols (beans) of group and this subtle aniseed pastry few sceneries that can be recogni- pecially on a Saturday market day. hrooms, game, beef, a local breed of the village of Santa Pau, with their Pro- ring, or ‘tortell’.

76 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 77 ROUTE 5 THE ART OF HUNTING WILD MUSHROOMS

EXPLORING This is a somewhat wrong name. In fact these “hunters” are true lovers of the forests. They THE CENTRAL PYRENEES know that one of the world’s greatest pleasures is a stroll through the trees, off the track On the pleasant sunny slopes and in the steep shadows, forests and meadows without anything altering nature. And they know where to hunt grow, goats and cows graze and mushrooms and fruit are picked. The Cadí for these little wild mushroom THE MOUNTAIN mountains enrich the recipe book with products for all dishes. PASTURES FEED THE treasures, because they don’t DAIRY LIVESTOCK TO find or harvest them, they hunt PRODUCE EXCELLENT them. And when they have them, CHEESES they cut them carefully so that the next hunter can hunt the tion and the French army eliminated none other than to look at the Pedra- sector, so its experience is more than the emblem of la Cerdanya is much treasure again a few days later. them with all available means, and forca Mountain or climb it. Its name assured. It gathers farmers from the humbler. The trinxat consists of po- They arm themselves with a LA SEU wicker basket and a knife with D’URGELL very few managed to flee south. portrays it: a fork (forca, in Catalan) Alt Urgell and Cerdanya districts and tatoes with cabbage, which should a brush to clean the earth and From here the name, Camí dels Bons divides its rocky peak in two. In Gò- produces a cheese and butter with full have been caught slightly by the leaves off their prized booty. Homes, the route which starts at sol too, Picasso settled in 1906, one guarantees, as certified by the Protec- frost. A few teeth of garlic are added Montsegur Castle, one of the last re- year before revolutionising academic ted Designation of Origin (DOP). and the dish is crowned off with a fuges of the Occitan Cathars. The painting with his work The Young La- This area has other masters of slice of crispy bacon. path crosses the Pyrenees, the Cadí dies of Avignon. cheese. This is the case of Cuirols, of Cold meats are never lacking from Products: mountains and reaches the Queralt el Molí de Ger, Serrat Gros, Baridà, the pantries in these regions or on Cheeses, cold meats, dairy products, sanctuary over the town of Berga. CHEESES WITH NAME AND Formatgeria de Tuixent, Mas d’Eroles the travellers’ table, and are a way to Try: For the moment, starting the route in SURNAME and Formatgeria Castell-Llebre, to preserve the pork meat. They also Cheese fair of Sant Ermengol, in la Seu d’Urgell Queralt, the region's cuisine has to The origins of the Cooperativa del name but a few. There are those which preserve the mushrooms which, out be tasted. By way of suggestions, Cadí date back to 1915. It was the first work with cows’ milk; others use of season, are dried, kept in water or Essentials: Wild mushroom picking in the autumn enmascarades potatoes (with bacon in the country in the stock breeding goats’ milk. All of the animals graze oil. Any rice or stew is promoted to and cabbage), the blat escairat near the cheese works, and this is the first division with boletus or (broken corn cooked with bacon), what is called grazing cheese. And the chanterelles. And amongst the pre- lamb chops and tastet (sausage), ac- cheese changes just as the countrysi- serves, the jams are never missing: CATHAR TRACKS companied by codony (quince) garlic de changes with the seasons. forest fruits, cranberries, blackbe- the craft cheesemakers of the Pyre- The Cathars, also known as the bons sauce. Now well served, we can visit rries, raspberries, elderberries … nees, although other craftsmen and homes (good men), were the fo- the Centre Medieval i dels Càtars MOUNTAIN CUISINE stock breeders also attend. llowers of a reading of the Bible so- and the offices of the Cadí-Moixeró Duck with turnips was traditionally A VERY OLD CATHEDRAL The visit will be complete with a mewhat removed from catholic or- Natural Park, both in the village of eaten in the Cerdanya district in the The first fair of la Seu de Urgell is al- visit to the cathedral. Romanesque thodoxy. In the 14th century, a Bagà. early winter. This is a dish that de- ready documented in the year 1048. with Italian influences, it has the dio- crusade moved into the lands of Oc- Mountain lovers should go to the serves a place in any recipe book. And it is still held today. On the third cesan Museum, which is well worth a citania where they lived. The Inquisi- village of Gòsol. The reason can be However the recipe that has become weekend of October, the city gathers visit.

78 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 79 BARCELONA'S ROUTE 6 CITY MARKETS WORK AS TRUE GASTRONOMIC CENTRES OF CULTURAL GETAWAYS EXCHANGE FROM BARCELONA BARCELONA

Catalonia is a small country, THE CAPITAL OF FLAVOUR but all of its sceneries enclose flavours and all of its recipes house traditions. Get away from In this port open to all of the winds in the world, new trends disembark every Barcelona for a few hours with day. Everything enriches, everything extends the infinite palette of flavours of Aborígens, and enjoy a trip to the roots of Catalan cuisine. the dynamic capital of Catalonia. All of the craftsmen of gastronomy work discreetly, away from the fashions and the passing of time, and honestly, faithful to a rural tradition that refuses to disappear. A SWEET AND SAVOURY AWAKENING chovies and whitebait, olives, stuffed They are vine growers, shepherds, The best moment to stroll in Barcelo- peppers, clams, cheese, spicy pota- truffle harvesters... They taste the most genuine of our gastronomic na is between 6 and 8 in the mor- toes. The repertoire can be extended culture from close up. ning. Few people, a cool atmosphe- and encroach on the universe of ta- re, the morning lights … In the air pas and portions, with a selection i More information: float sufficient aromas as to write a that would end up filling several en- BARCELONA www.aborigensbarcelona.com poem. cyclopedic volumes. The bakeries open early. The Products: bread is freshly made, aromatic, FOOD FOR ALL Specialities from any part of Catalonia crisp. The offer of sandwiches or sli- If yesterday it was mixed cuisine or ces of bread with cold meats is also Japanese restaurants, today it is the Try: Eating in one of the more than 20 extensive. Apart from the weekends, vegan offers, the Vietnamese soup there, they offer a textbook crema more without forgetting the classi- Michelin starred restaurants when there is time, these will be or- premises, those doing km 0 or which catalana or the exact combination of cal rice cuisine, or those typical to

Essentials: dered mid-morning on this break make the biodynamic culture their almond milk and ice cream. Barcelona like the ‘zarzuela’. And Going out for a vermouth or having a that allows you to get to lunchtime flag. All of this without forgetting the The afternoon comes into the te- those who like to dine in an establi- cup of hot chocolate in the afternoon without yawning. avant-garde, which has a school in rritory of tapas, small beers, sandwi- shment with a star can choose Barcelona. Here is born the most au- ches on the go, pieces of coca de from the more than twenty the city THE RECONQUEST OF VERMOUTH dacious gastronomy, the cuisine that recapte, pasties or potato omelettes. offers. quality as always plus the experience From the time of our grandparents, will be celebrated in the rest of the of time. The same applies to premi- the bottle of soda has been recove- world in three or four years. GOLDEN BROOCH THE NIGHT IS YOUNG ses where you can hear jazz, sin- red. It appears on the table when it is The fusion of Catalan cuisine with Without age distinction, go out and ger-songwriter themes, flamenco gui- time for vermouth. From the Pene- CINNAMON TWIG cuisines from all around the world, enjoy the night. The classical cocktail tar, classical music or indie. The offer dès and the Priorat new craft prepa- For tea, the list of cafes serving hot of smoked products, craft beer bars have withstood without twisting is so broad that nobody, no matter rations have come. It is served with chocolate has to be put on the table. production within reach, natural wi- the fashionable gesture of the gin&to- how demanding they might be, will be a snack: sea snails, razor shells, an- If they serve the best whipped cream nes at human prices, all of this and nic. They are still there, with the same left without reward.

80 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 81 SITGES OFFERS ROUTE 7 VISITORS MANY AND VARIED TEMPTATIONS XATÓ, AIXETONAR, AIXETA THE WHOLE RANGE OF The name xató refers to an action that was, and is still, done at the end of autumn: trying the new wine. The vats of wine are pierced COLOURS OF WINE with a tap (aixeta in Catalan, which gives aixeetonar and xató) We could go back more than twenty centuries and we would have vineyards in to let it out. It was a festive day and the tasting was accompanied the Penedès. Viticulture has formed the scenery, the form of life, the culture, by a typical salad of the time character and obviously all of the nuances of the palate. made with chicory and fish in preserve like tuna, anchovies, cod and olives. And obviously the typical sauce made with almonds, red peppers, garlic, vinegar, olive then thinks he can hear the angels, mains of the DO Cava spread. Sant oil and salt. The title of “capital del xató”, is shared between el he is right: these are the angels Sadurní d’Anoia. After squeezing Vendrell, Sitges, Vilafranca del from nine to fourteen years of age the xarel·lo, macabeo and parellada Penedès and Vilanova i la Geltrú. of the monastery’s children's choir, grapes, the must undergoes a dou- The tasting can be accompanied meeting place for the four best co- Fortunately, the Ruta del xató one of the most prestigious in Eu- ble fermentation, the second in the by dishes of the land such as escali- lles (groups) of castellers (human passes through all of them. rope. bottle, following the champenoise vada, cod ‘a la llauna‘ (with garlic, tower builders). The raised cons- SANT SADURNÍ D’ANOIA method. parsley and paprika), calçots (roast tructions reach up to ten floors of SECRET DOMAINS OF CAVA The origin of this sparkling wine onions), and sweets like carquinyo- people, so excitement is guaran- Products: Everything has its other side, and dates back to 1872, when Josep lis (dry pastry with almonds). teed. The celebrations go on from Hens and capons, DO Penedès wine and Cava, peaches, chocolate we have to come down from the Raventós brought the champenoise the end of spring until well into au- heights to explore the bowels of method to Can Codorníu. Its cellars WINE, MORE WINE tumn. Try: DO Penedès wine in the Vijazz the earth. This is where the do- are a work of modernism. But the Penedès produces other and Cava at the Cavatast whites, rosés, reds, sweet wines CINEMA BY THE SEA Essentials: and sparkling under the DO Pene- Alongside the sea, in Sitges, they Following the ‘xató’ route dès, ready for all palates. make ‘malvasía’, a singular wine Whatever route you choose, it using the grape of the same name. goes through Vilafranca del Pene- This town has museums like the CHEER MADE STONE dès. In the centre of the town, the magnificent Cau Ferrat, raised on Geltrú, the neighbouring town and Montserrat raises hundreds of sto- Vinseum occupies several remar- the Mediterranean, which was the capital of the Garraf district. Both ne fingers higher and higher. It is a kable buildings. This museum dis- house and workshop of the painter, towns also dispute the maternity of holy mountain and the Mecca of plays the wine culture of Catalo- writer and modernist collector San- the ‘xató’, a chicory salad with a climbers, and also a luxury balcony nia. tiago Rusiñol. sauce that each home makes in its over the Penedès district. The ideal NOBODY CAN Also in the town, where every The town is known for its fantas- own way. Calafell, El Vendrell and place to start this route with a mató LEAVE year around the day of Sant Félix, tic Cinema Festival and its Carnival Vilafranca del Penedès have also THE PENEDÉS (curds) and honey. If the traveller WITHOUT 30 August, the Plaça de la Vila is the as animated as that of Vilanova i la added to this dispute. ENJOYING A TASTING IN A WINERY

82 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 83 PRIORAT IS THE WINE AREA ROUTE 8 OF GREATEST INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION DESIGNING THE OF THE TWELVE PERFECT MENU CATALAN DESIGNATIONS ART ON STONE, What are the keys to the best gastronomic experience? In this three-hour session, the chef of Hotel Gran Claustre will teach MONUMENTAL TARRACO you how to design and create a tasting menu worthy of the finest professional chef. You’ll learn how In addition to the work of the Roman Empire still standing in Tarragona, to select the best ingredients, here we find the monastery of Poblet, the vineyards hanging on the slopes of choose the ideal table setting and devise the perfect pairing between the Priorat and the modernist buildings of Reus. wines and other drinks for each dish. It’s not just about learning to cook but discovering how to stage the dishes you make, with exhaustive control of the timing CO World Heritage site, can be visi- queur is the vermouth, to such an and the materials and utensils ted and is often integrated in the extent that a museum has been de- used both in the kitchen and on city. For example some restaurants voted to it. A dried fruit, the hazel- the table. and wineries are housed in the cir- nut, with protected Designation of cus and the forum. Origin, is used in the sauce for the i For further information on In Tarragona, in addition to the calçots (late spring onions) from these and other activities, go to: TARRAGONA recovered Roman culinary speciali- Valls, which are cooked over open THE LANDS OF THE PRIOR The lands of the district that do not www.granclaustre.com ties, you also have to try the bluefish embers in winter. Valls is another Forty years ago, hardly anyone form part of the DOQ Priorat are inclu- Products: or shrimps, or chartreuse, a Cartu- square, and surely the oldest, where knew the Priorat. Today it has beco- ded in the Montsant Designation of Fish and shellfish, DOQ Priorat, DO Conca de Barberà and DO Montsant sian liqueur adopted by the city. to see castells. me a land of pilgrimage for all lovers Origin. Still under twenty years old, wines, DO Siurana oil, IGP calçots, Another temporary monument, but of good wine. The same happened the wines are already of spectacular DOP hazelnuts permanent in memory, are the cas- to the former Escaladei Charterhou- quality. Much older, on the other Try: tells (human towers), which are se. You have to go there, because hand, are the olives of the Siurana De- The Wine Fair of the Priorat district erected during the feasts of Santa this is the origin of everything and signation of Origin. Tecla and in the competition held stands in privileged surroundings, Essentials: Taking part in a ‘calçotada’ every two years. under the steep rocks of the Mont- CELESTIAL TRIANGLE sant. The prior has his headquarters To the north, we cross the Prades SO NEAR AND YET SO FAR here and his lands are precisely tho- hills to go down to the Conca de monastery of Santa Maria de Po- CAPITAL OF HISPANIA CITERIOR Just fifteen kilometres separate se included in the DOQ Priorat Qua- Barberà district. Here the wines blet, a UNESCO World Heritage With twenty centuries or more of Reus from Tarragona, and an abyss lified Designation of Origin. The rou- have their own designation of origin. site. The visit must be completed existence, Tarragona preserves, al- of feelings. Where Tarragona pre- te must include the villages of They produce light and fruity whites with another two Cistercian works: most intact, its Roman walls, am- sents its Roman past, Reus exhibits Porrera, Gratallops and Vilella and rosés and complex reds, the the monastery of Santes Creus and phitheatre, circus and aqueduct and its modernist legacy with numerous Baixa, where small wineries are lo- perfect complement for a land do- that of Vallbona de les Monges. The THE END OF THE other monuments from the time of buildings by Lluís Domènech i Mon- WINTER AND cated which produce great wines of minated by the mediaeval stones of three are superb and form the Ruta the empire. The complex, a UNES- taner. In this city, the reference li- SPRING international prestige. Montblanc and the great Cistercian del Císter. ARE THE PERFECT TIMES FOR THE CALÇOT

84 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 85 ROUTE 9 EBRE COOKING EXPERIENCE THE GREAT RIVER Do you want to learn to make the best rice in the world? You can do so with the chef of the restaurant of the Hotel Algadir, WHERE LIFE FLOWS THE PRODUCTS Joan Capilla. To start with, he OF THE SEA AND will take you to the market to get ESPECIALLY THE The Ebre is more than just water. For centuries it has been a communication RICE DISTINGUISH the best products. Then he will THE GASTRONOMY form teams to make the different route and an extensive market bringing together the peoples and products AND THE SCENERY rice recipes and will tell you the OF THE DELTA best-kept secrets of the Delta to DE L’EBRE of the districts that overlook it. make the recipe a success. The last part will undoubtedly be the best: lunch or dinner with rice as the main dish and a selection of starters made with products of almond trees, hazelnut trees, olive casquetes) filled with pumpkin jam. the land, washed down with DO trees and vineyards, the Terra Alta You can also find them downriver in Terra Alta wines. district is taken in through the eyes, Tortosa and Amposta, and they are but also through the nose and mou- addictive. th. The bees concentrate all of the i For more information on this scenery in the honey from Arnes, WHERE THE RIVER ORDERS and other activities: AMPOSTA which has its own festival in May, the The waters of the Ebre gently bathe www.hotelalgadirdelta.com month of flowers. The quality of the the village of Miravet. It houses hang Products: oil is assured by its own designation over the river, and above them DOP rice, fish and shellfish, duck, DO Terra Alta wines, eel of origin. Terra Alta is the district of stands a castle of austere and impo- A new chapter starts at the Ebre Ri- therefore recognised with its own wine. Grenache is the reference gra- sing cubes. ver mouth. Protected Designation of Origin. Try: Mussels and oysters from a raft pe and the soul of a white wine with The river goes on and waters. On The varieties include ‘bomba’, a subtle nose and great intensity in its banks grow citrus trees and THE SKY ON EARTH which is particularly appreciated by Essentials: Visit the cathedrals of wine the mouth. The cooperatives of amongst them, tangerines with Pro- The Ebre tries to stretch out its rou- the country's chefs. They use it in Gandesa and Pinell de Brai, built in tected Geographic Indication. Exten- te. It has dragged sediment and has their paellas, which include the sea- the 1920s, were once at the forefront sive olive groves are also made out built this arrow tip that forces its food they have alongside: the mus- of technique and today are still in use with trees over a thousand years old way into the Mediterranean. It is a sels from the Delta and the shrimps HEADS OR TAILS and open to the public. In modernist which continue to produce a quality oil strange world, a plain where the sky and crayfish from Sant Carles de la And now we almost face the sea. Picasso stayed for long periods in style and built by disciples of Gaudí. with a Protected Designation of Origin. is reflected in the flooded fields. Ràpita. Among the restaurants to try We are at some salt marshes at the Horta de Sant Joan. The second The memory of the Civil War re- The waters reach the town of Tor- Here rice is sown and ducks and fla- it, there are some with a Michelin Punta de la Banya. The Horizon time he was there, he broke down mains in the abandoned village of tosa, the capital of the Baix Ebre mingos rest there along their way. star. The rice has also been distilled opens up and here the soft water the village scenery and surroundings Corbera d’Ebre. To understand what district. Essentials include a visit to These are the domains of the Delta to produce a drink, a delicious rice mixes with the salty, the river with into basic volumes and set it out on happened, it is worth visiting Gande- the cathedral with its Baroque faca- de l’Ebre Natural Park, UNESCO cream, and its culture has its own the sea and the rafts are moored canvases shown in the books of mo- sa Museum. Then, try some pastis- de and elegant Gothic nave, and the Biosphere Reserve. museum, the Molí de Rafelet in Del- where the tasty mussels and exce- dern art. With its dry crop fields, its sets (little cakes and in Gandesa, Arab Suda castle. The rice is of great quality and is tebre. llent oysters are grown.

86 / Gastronomic proposals Gastronomic proposals / 87 GLOSSARY, THE KEYWORDS OF CATALAN GASTRONOMY

A fish separately. It is corn cooked with (see page 24): an M and pasta, typical of or vermicelli. and a long arm on served with alioli. bacon, a typical originally farm dish the Val d’Aran. patata the opposite side alioli (allioli): mató: cottage a dish of the Ber- made with pota- enmascarada used to fill it. sauce made with arrossejat: cheese. rice dish made guedà district. toes, vegetables, (see page 76): a crushed garlic mona (see page with the ‘rossejat’ party snails spinach and P traditional dish that and oil. botifarrada: 23): Easter cake technique, which and popular meal pork meat. pa amb tomàquet: combines potatoes R anchovy (anx- godparents give their slice of bread romesco: a sauce consists of toasting mainly featuring champenoise: with black or ‘perol’ ova): godchildren. made with red the rice with the the butifarra the process used rubbed with ripe sausage and crispy fillet of small blue mongeta del peppers, garlic olive oil before sausage. to make sparkling tomato and dressed bacon. fish cured in brine. ganxet (see page with olive oil and and roast tomatoes, adding the broth bull: a cooked cold wine in the style of picada: culinary arbequina: 21): a variety of toasted almonds and the fish. meat made with the region of salt. technique con- an olive variety haricot bean with a and hazelnuts, pork and pickled Champagne. panellet: a marzi- sisting of crushing from Arbeca, with a highly characteristic pan sweet made for olive oil, vinegar, fats. coca de recapte certain ingredients fruit that is smaller B soft flavour. salt, pepper and (see page 15): a and removing the fricandó (see All Saints. in a mortar to add than that of the bacallà a la llau- morter (mortar): a paprika. savoury pie made seeds, vegetables recipe page 39): pambtomaquejar: them to dishes or other varieties na: a dish of cod C strong bowl used to a with layers of are grilled or baked a meat stew with making and eating sauces that have to normally grown. that is desalted, calçotada: crush certain sub- popular meal in vegetables and and served. wild mushrooms. ‘pa amb tomàquet’. be condimented. S It produces a high floured and fried stances and reduce pancetta. with a fork, and which calçots are pieces of butifarra escudella (see panxeta: picapoll: a variety samfaina: a dish T quality oil. and prepared on them to a pulp or dressed with bacon. eaten. sausage or herring. recipe page 38): a pastisset: a small of small grape of aubergine, cour- tastet (see page arròs a banda: a tray in the oven G powder. (see page (see page stew of vegetables, cake in the shape grown in the Bages gette and pepper 76): minced and a dish of rice, fish with garlic, parsley calçots codony galet (see page 13): a variety of 76): quince. chick peas, meat of a semicircle region. diced and fried in fried pork used V and shellfish pre- and paprika. 24): kind of pasta spring onion that a and pasta or rice. O made with flour, (see page oil, onion, tomato to fill. vi ranci (see page pared by cooking blat escairat (see costellada: in the shape of a pilota is flame-grilled, popular meal esqueixada: a òlha aranesa (see sugar, olive oil, 24): large meatball and olive oil. tortell: a puff pastry 49): wood-aged wine the rice and the page 76): broken snail, cooked with salad of stripped page 71): soup aniseed and grated thin ring filled with with a sherry aroma. dressed with a mainly featuring the broth from the made with pork, secallona: cod, green and red made with meat, lemon peel, filled cured meat made whipped cream, sauce and eaten lamb ribs. ‘escudella’. picada, egg and pepper chopped vegetables, legumes with pumpkin jam with minced pork, vanilla cream, with your hands. girella: delica- flour, added to some X into small pieces, garlic and pepper. jam, marzipan or (see page 81): canneloni tessen made with soups and stews. xató onion, olives and (see page vermicelli. autumn sauce. (canelons): rolls of E lamb. platet: a dish of setrill pasta filled with empedrat (see tomato, dressed cooked meat. 41): a glass vinegar trementinaires xatonada: popular boiled and minced page 25): salad in olive oil and pollastre del Prat: or oil pot with a (see page 57): meal with a lot of meat, covered with of haricot beans, vinegar. L a local chicken narrow neck and women who went diners, featuring xató sauce and grilled. sliced olives, llicorella (see breed of El Prat de peak for pouring. from village to vil- as the main dish. carquinyoli: a pieces of tomato, F page 45): type of Llobregat. sol i serena (see lage selling natural xolís (see page 70): dry pastry made chopped onion and faves a la cata- slate. porró: a wine page 49): the meth- products with curing cold slice made with with flour, egg and cod, all dressed lana: a broad bean llonganissa: vessel with a od by which wine or properties. lean pork, salt and almonds. in olive oil and stew with pancetta, dried sausage. round base and spirit is matured in trinxat (see page pepper. casquetes (see vinegar. sausage and fresh Delicatessen based long spout ending in the open air. 77): a dish made xuixo (see page 69): page 84): cake escalivada: a mint. on pork meat with a tip from which the suquet: sauce used mainly with vege- a thin doughnut fried, filled with jam. dish in which, fesol: haricot salt and pepper, wine is poured into to garnish a fish tables and potatoes sugared and filled cassola de tros after peeling them bean. dried in the air. the mouth, stew. boiled and mashed with vanilla cream.

88 / / 89 MORE INFORMATION

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