Delicious Traditions of Asolo Located in the Northern Italian Province of Treviso, This Idyllic Little Town Holds Big Culinary Treasures

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Delicious Traditions of Asolo Located in the northern Italian province of Treviso, this idyllic little town holds big culinary treasures.

BY SUSAN VAN ALLEN

left Venice,took a train colorful flower boxes, a medieval castle Asolo into an artistic center where top north to Montebelluna, and perched in the near distance. I wandered painters and poets ofthe day gathered. The then hopped into a taxi to away and understood Asolo's nickname: artsy vibe Cornaro began has remained. my destination: the village "City of One Hundred Horizons?'The Over the centuries Asolo has attracted such of Asolo(pronounced AHH- village is perfectly set over a stunning stars as the poet Robert Browning, Ernest zow-low). The driver smiled panorama of vineyards, olive groves, and Hemingway,travel writer Freya Stark, as I gasped over our approach—a curvy farmlands, bordered by snow-capped and, most notably, the actress Eleonora road through a lush forest—right out ofa mountains. Duse,whose beautiful image pops up in fairytale. In contrast to the crowds ofVenice and Asolo's restaurants, shops, and the lovely He dropped me offin the idyllic tiny the labyrinth ofits canals, in Asolo I could Hotel Duse, named in her honor. An easy historic center. Happy locals sat on the stroll leisurely without getting lost. There walk away from the center leads to a pretty terrace ofthe elegant Caffe Centrale, are the remains ofthe walls and castle of cemetery, where Duse's grave is a main facing a quiet piazza: fountain, bell tower, Queen Catherine Cornaro,who reigned attraction—a humble white stone,facing two story stone buildings bedecked with here in the Renaissance, transforming the majestic Monte Grappa.

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Along with all the beauty and rich the 19th century, where a boisterous card sauté until wilted. Add salt and pepper to taste. is was going on in the corner. The history, this is a delicious place. Asolo game Cook the pasta in salted boiling water in the province of Treviso, where some plate ofhomemade bigoli,thick spaghetti as directed on the package, until al dente. of Italy's finestfood and wine originated. with radicchio that was set before me, Reserve one cup of the cooking water just drain the pasta. Mix the drained that was the perfect autumn meal—a hearty before you Most were once simple peasant foods pasta in the pan with the cooked radicchio, grew to be elegantly refined and beloved dish that blended with the warm osteria gradually adding the pasta water under low worldwide. For example,there's grappa, atmosphere. To finish, the waitress offered heat, until absorbed. Serve immediately, Parmesan cheese, if desired. a traditional ending: a tiny tumbler of topped with a digestivo made of grape seeds and me Makes 4 servings. stems. Until the 1960s, it was mainly a throat tingling fine grappa to join with the drink for farmers to warm themselves up locals in toasting the traditional Asolo way. Grilled Treviso Radicchio with during the winter. Then Signora Giannola For more info: wwwvisittreviso.it Asiago Cheese Nonino, of a famous Bassano del Grappa distillery, decided to begin making grappa Susan Van Allen is the author ofI Places 4 heads radicchio Should Go and the from a single grape. She was an excellent in Italy Every Woman /14 cup extra virgin olive oil Golden Days in Italy blog. She travels Salt and pepper, to taste PR person, offering her drink free to frequently to Italy, the native land ofher 4 ounces Asiago cheese, grated journalists and restaurateurs, so slowly it grandparents, and lives in LosAngeles. gained an international following. susanvanallen.com Preheat the oven to 325°F. Trim the end of each radicchio and remove Treviso is also home to a particular type core outer leaves. Quarter each head, cutting of radicchio, a vegetable in the chicory lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper, family that's been cultivated here since and brush each head with olive oil. Place the radicchio in a seasoned, ridged the fifteenth century. Treviso radicchio grill pan, over moderate heat, covered, and is shaped like Belgian endive, but with The Recipes turn every ten minutes until browned and maroon-purple leaves and white ribs. It tender. Or, you can grill the radicchio over hot coals, turning until browned and tender, has a bittersweet taste and is so revered, it's about a half an hour. often served on its own as a second course, Transfer cooked radicchio to a baking simply grilled and topped with melted sheet and sprinkle cheese over it. Bake in cheese melts, just a few minutes. cheese. oven until Serve immediately. And there's polenta, as the flat land is Makes 4 servings. perfect for growing corn. Roman soldiers traditionally sustained themselves on a Polenta Fruit Cake porridge they called Pulemntum (where polenta got its name)that was made from /12 cup grappa /12 cup currants wheat or buckwheat,spelt or barley. Then 4 cups water corn was introduced to Italy through 1/12 cups polenta Venetian trade routes in the 16th century, 1 cup all purpose flour, plus additional for the baking dish and soon Treviso landowners realized they 1 cup butter, plus additional for the bak- could grow vast fields ofit, so the peasant ing dish porridge in these parts began to be made /12 cup dried figs, diced from cornmeal. /12 cup fennel seeds 1 cup sugar In Asolo, cornmeal is also used to 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind make pinza—a winter cake flavored with Braised Radicchio and Bigoli nuts and fruit. Since it was autumn and Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 1 pound Bigoli (thick whole wheat getting cooler, Francesco at the Gelateria a baking pan, 9 x 11 inches. Pour the grappa spaghetti) or regular whole wheat in a small bowl and add the currants, to Browning was offering pinza(made from spaghetti soak them. Bring the water to a boil and his mamma's recipe), along with mulled 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil add the polenta, stirring so no lumps form, wine—a fabulous fortifying combination. 1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed and cook for about 30 to 40 minutes. 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, diced Transfer to a mixing bowl to cool. Drain the I slipped into a folksy place for lunch, 2 large heads radicchio currants (you won't be needing the grappa, Corte del Re, and sat with friendly locals Salt and pepper, to taste but may want to reserve it to drink or use in at a long wooden table, treating myselfto Parmesan cheese, if desired another recipe). When polenta has cooled, mix in the flour, butter, currants, figs, fennel a combo plate of Asolo specialties: grilled In a large pot, boil water to cook the seeds, sugar, and lemon rind. baking pan and polenta topped with radicchio, and a pasta. Transfer the mixture to a cake with local cheese—Morlacco di Grappa—soft In a large pan, add the oil and sauté bake for about an hour. Prick the clean, the the garlic in the olive oil until it is golden. a toothpick and if it comes out and subtly flavored with herbs. Dinner temperature or Discard the garlic and then add the sliced cake is ready. Serve at room was at Osteria al Bacaro, an institution prosciutto, cooking 2to 3 minutes until chilled. that's been a thriving social center since lightly browned. Add the radicchio, and Makes 16 servings.

38 SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2014 • TASTES OF ITALIA