PASQUETTA: A CLASSIC EASTER HOLIDAY DESSERT

THE BEST IN ITALIAN APRIL 2011 GREAT FLAVORS EXOTIC TASTES OF SICILY OFFLORENCE WILD HERBS, OLIVES, ALMONDS, LEMONS AND ORANGES ROMAN MEMORlES

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undisclosed family from Siena. had fired the terra-cotta tiles that were "Three hundred years later, the family being made by the thousand in the con- from Siena sold the property to the Del struction ofthe Duomo. Riccio family. The Del Riccios expanded "Another recipe incredibly anti co is il the property giving it larger quarters with a sugo finto alia contadina. It is a hearty symmetric harmonious form. Their sym- thick made without meat. It is deli- quick mo- bol was the porcupine and you can see it on cious and needs lots of time to cook. The ment from the busy Oitrarno, through the the front ground," he says. "At the end of ingredients; sage, celery, parsley, onions, Porto Romano and upward is the Poggio the 1800s, my family bought the villa and are sauteed until caramelized with Imperiale. An imperial avenue, lined with here is our family emblem. It was found in tossed in. As it slow cooks the sauce dark- tall cypress and set betvveen ancient olive the church of Santa Maria del Carmine in ens looking like a sugo di carne alla Bolog- orchards, turns into an almost one-way Florence," he points to the marble shield nese, but it contains no meat at all," says country road that leads to San Felice a with three stars and three moons that now Signore Rodolfo. Ema, and home to the Villa of Mr. Rodolfo is mounted on the wall ofthe villa. "My favorite is Pappa al Pomodoro, a Caciolli. Set in the breast of the Acciaioli San Felice a Ema is a territory not trav- hearty tomato thickened with day old Hills, the Villa is a magical property eled by tourists. It is a landscape of rolling . I remember my Mom would cut the dressed in white. The peacefulness of this hills in muted greens speckled with Tuscan hard bread with a double edge knife just area is diverse from the bustle of down- rooftops, singing bell towers, villas of the for the soup. She also prepared a minestra town Florence. Upon settling in, Benedetta Italian elite, and on a turn, a glimpse of . of ve getables, without potato, but with greets me, Luciana has dinner wait- Brunelleschi's Dome in the distance. The cavolo nero - a long black leary cabbage ing, and Signore Rodolfo welcomes me to landscape is surreal and looks more like a with an incredible taste and flavor! Ah, La the land of Kings and Queens past. Giotto masterpiece. Although times have Ribollita another typical Fiorentina soup

A cook at and great storytellel' of changed since the Florentine greats of Gio- meaning 'reboiled: At you eat it as is, all things Florentine, Signore Rodolfo in- vanni Boccaccio, Niccolo Machiavelli, and for dinner you re-boil it and it tastes vites me to his table and begins to tell of Francesco Petrarca, and Galileo Galilei even better. These are silly things, but are the villa's past. broke bread here, the has not and they're good - incredible and make me "The villa belonged to Acciaioli family, the Tu scan bread remains without salt. smile," he tells the story of his family one ofthe most powerful and wealthy fam- "The most traditional dish from Flo- recipes and the peasant for gente di ilies ofthe 14th century Italy. The villa was rence, and one I make most often in my campagna. their summer residence and its architec- , is Peposo. The Tuscan beefstew is, "Lampredotto is eaten at the outdoor ture tells a story of its illustrious past. "molto antico," he emphasizes. "It was kiosk and La Trippa alla Fiorentina is Look at the lion rampant which is carved made before the discovery of America, so eaten at home. The best lampredotto, in stone above the door, it was a symbol of there are no tomatoes in it." served steaming hot, is at a kiosk at Porto their dynasty. The origin of this villa was Using pezzi meno nobili di carne, trans- Romano;' declares Signore Rodolfo. Made the altra Medieval tower, it was used as a lating t o less than noble pieces of meat... from the stomach of the cow, it is boiled look out military tower to protect the fam- tough parts of the meat-even an ankle-it and served on a panino with salt, pepper ily. For centuries the land of this villa was is slow cooked with red wine, salt, garlic and salsa verde or piccante. Trippa sold by the exclusive t erritory of the Medici Fam- and lots ofblack pepper," he explains. pushcart vendors is a tradition that stmtcd ily with the crossroad outside, Via Maria Peposo was first made during the 1430s on the streets of Florence in the early 14th Celeste, being the main road from the Chi- when architect Filippo Brunelleschi was century. anti hills to Florence;' he says. constructing La Chiesa Santa Maria del Breaking bread with a local is the best The Acciaiolis were so connected to their Fiore, the famous Duomo in Florence. The way to learn and understand the long religion that they constructed the elaborate beefstew originated in Impruneta, a small of . Signore Rodolfo, 1I1l Monastero di Certosa in 1342 at the re- town south of Florence, known for terra- Toscano vero, gives his notes on a quest of Niccol6 Acciaioli. -nley married cotta. Peposa was slow cooked in clay pots local trattoria with a big wine cellar. into the Medici family and their splendor that were slipped into kilns during the Named after its former owner, and not continued. In 1470 they sold the villa to an night using tbe residual heat that by day Homer the ancient Greek epic poet, is

44 MARC H / APRIL 2011 • T ASTES O F ITALIA PIAZZA DELL 1\ REPUBBLI A - ---- Trattoria Omero. It's an almost hidden olive oil and sprinkled with pepper are at Omero. . place with an unassuming entrance on the served on a white plate. And within min- Florence is forever! Each visit inspires Via Pian dei Giullari. Roseanna with utes buttery yellow ribbons of Pappardelie the next return. Beautiful timeless piazzas cousins Carlo and Roberto Soldani are the in slow cooked sauce oftomato & cinghiale filled with elegant people, lines always at owners. The entrance opens into a halfcafe arrive to the table. Warm Tuscan white the Uffizi for yet another peek ofBotticelli's bar, halfmercatino and its shelves are lined beans and a bottle of Chianti complete a Primavera, and the eternall fire ofthe chest- with blue paper bags of Antonio Mattei's traditional Tuscan pranzo, without ever nut roaster at the corner ofPiazza della Re- Prato cantucci, artisan pappardelle, seeing a menu. pubblica who continues turning castagnc Pecorino di Rocca & Gran Risen'a, Roseanna invites me to the wine cellar on hot coals with weathered hands. Flo- Porchetta Cotta a Legna, Salumi Toscano, for a timely pause after the heavenly lunch. rence's beauty captures everyone. After a Vin Santo and canvas bags piled high with The cellar, home to hundreds of interest- full day walking and tasting my way dry Tuscan beans. A savory smell of all ing wines including a youngling Chianti through the Renaissance city of art, I re- things good fills the air. Castello di Monnalisa, a super Tuscan Due- treat to the Villa offering a close proximity A menu del giorno is available in the mani, and a 1967 vintage il Poggio Riserva to the city and beautiful peace of the Tus- trattoria including, Praline di Caprino Castello di Monsanto with a 350Euro price can countryside. fresco (da allevamento biologico) al tartufo tag, keeps company to hundreds of pro- Cooking with Chef Luciana at the Villa pregiato di Acqualagna, organic artisan sciutto that hang from wooden beams up Florentine's Slow Cooking program is cheese shaven with fresh truffles from Ac- above. Although there are over 300 wine available at Cooking Vacations, www.cook- qualagna; Taglierini al Tartufo Bianco, varieties in the cellar, Rosanna exclaims, ing-vacations.com. fresh pasta ribbons shaven with white truf- "Chianti is my favorite." fles; Lombattina di Vitello al Limone con As I return to my table, I hear waiter Lauren Birmingham Piscitelli is founder Cipolline Borettane all'Aceto Balsamico, Signore Antonio informing a foreigner at a and owner of Cooking Vacations Italy veal loin chops cooked with lemon sauce neighboring table that formaggio is only which specializes in culinary tours, hands- and served with aged Balsamic and Bis- put on Pasta al Pomodoro and not Pasta al on cooking classes and cultural adventures tecca alia Fiorentina. Tartufo (pasta "vith truffles). An ambrosial in Italy. www.cooking-vacations.com; (617) Fettunta, as they are called in dialect, apple cake and a steamy espresso arrive at 247-4112. small toasted garlic bread, drizzled with my table-a pelfect ending to an afternoon

I :1 46 MARCH / APRIL 2011 • TASTES OF ITALIA Tuscan Meatless Sauce

medium carrot 2 medium onions bunch fresh parsley 5 basil leaves 9 ounces of cherry tomatoes Extra virgin olive oil }2 cup broth Salt and pepper, to taste

Chop the' carrot, on ions, parsley, basil and cherry tomatoes. In a large saucepan, heat a small amount of extra virgin olive oil and add the vegetable s. Saute over low heat for about 5 minutes until the on ion is translucent and the tomatoes softened. Add the broth, a pinch of sa lt to taste and allow to cook over low heat for about 30 min- utes . When it is read y, the should be broken down into a smooth and cream y sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste and use as a sauce for your pasta Makes 4 ser vings

Apple Cake

3 large eggs 1112 cups granulated sugar + 3 tablespoons to sprinkle on top 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1112 cups "00" Italian flour or all-purpose flour teaspoon vanilla extract or zest of 1 medium lemon, as preferred 2 teaspoons baking powder Pinch of salt 112 cup pine nuts 112 cup raisins 6 medium Renett apples (or another tart apple with a soft flesh, such as 'Fuji) peeled, sliced thin, and divided

Preheat oven to 350° F. In a large mi xi ng bowl. mi x eggs with the sugar until foam y Add the melted butter, flour, vanilla or ze st, bak ing powder and salt. Mi x well and divide in half. Mix half of the with the pine nuts, raisin s, and the slices of 5 app les (save about 1apple to put on top) Butter and flour a lO-inch round cake pan and pour apple mixture into the pan Spread the rest of the dough on top, then top with the rest of the apple slices and sprinkle with a generous la ye r of sugar (a couple of tablespoons). Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F for about one hour. Use a toothpick to test if it is done, if it comes out dry it is ready Makes 8 servings

Note: "00" Italian flour may be purcha sed at specialty markets or through var ious sources on - lin e, including King Arthur Flour, wwwkingarthurflour.com.

TASTES OF ITA LI A • MARCH! APRIL 2011 47 native intelligence

Tuscan Garlic Bread

8 slices of Tuscan bread (without salt) Extra virgin olive oil, as needed clove garlic Salt and pepper, to taste Onion Soup To as t bread sl ices on a grill unt il golden. Rub each slice wi th gar li c and drizzle olive all h cup butter coo k for abou t 30 minutes on low. Next add over ea ch one. Sprinkle with sa lt and pepper 3 cups onion, sliced flou r, sa lt and peppe r and mix to dissolve the to tas te an d se rve hot. 2 tablespoons flour fl our. Ad d th e bro th slowl y, stirring conti nu- Ma kes 4 serv in gs Salt and black pepper, to taste ou sl y and cook fo r about 15 minu tes. 2 quarts vegetable broth In the meantime, cut sli ces of bread into Toasted bread cubes cubes and toas t. In each ser ving bowl, place Grated Parmigiano Reggiano th e toaste d bread the n pour the soup over the top Sp ri nkl e with Parm igiano Reg giano In a larg e pot, hea t the butter over low an d serve ho t. hea t an d add the onions. Cove r and allow to Makes 4 servings

4 8 M ARC H / APR IL 2011 • T ASTES O F ITALIA Penne with Meat Ragu

medium carrot h cup beef stock, if needed stirring occasionall y with a wooden spoon to 2 medium celery stalks Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, if desired keep it from sticking to the bottom of tl e pot. 12 medium onion Whe ready to eat. cook the pe nne III bo il - 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, Tus Chop the car rot. celery and oni on fine ly. In ing salted wa ter for about % of the cook time can preferred a large wide po t, hea t olive oil an d add (very al dente). Drai n and toss in the pan with 13 ounces ground beef chopped vegetab les and sa ute until the on ion the ragu, adding a bit of beef stock if needed 3 ounces ground pork is pale in color or blonded. Add the grou nd to dilute the sauce, and fi nish cooking the pound peeled tomatoes, pureed or meat and sa ute until it starts to brown. Add pasta for a minute a two with he sauce. 1(28-oz.) can crushed tomatoes the pu reed pee led tomatoes and the tomato Serve hot wi th Parmigiano Reggiano teaspoon tomato concentrate, optional concentrate, if desired Add sa lt and pepper grated on top, if desi red. Salt and pepper, to taste to taste and reduce hea t 0 low. Cover and Makes 4 servings pound penne Usce (smooth penne) cook sauce fo r about 3 hours over low heat.

TASTES OF IT ALIA • M AR C H I A P R I L 2011 4 9