SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

Overview This standard is for those who forward make a coat in bespoke tailoring. The job role may involve: 1 attaching facings 2 inserting the fore-part linings 3 attaching/inserting the back 4 making up sleeves 5 basting in sleeves 6 basting on undercollar

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 1 SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

Performance criteria You must be able to: You must be able to: P1 attach canvas on edges P2 baste and fell tapes on edges P3 baste on facings, press and machine P4 press open edges and turn out P5 baste out edges P6 attach facings P7 attach back lining to back P8 turn in side seams and lining P9 close side seams P10 mark bottom and tack P11 turn up bottom baste and fasten P12 close lining on side seam P13 sew forearm seam and press P14 baste shoulders P15 insert pads P16 machine seam sleeve lining P17 baste in sleeve linings and sleeves to pitch marks P18 make and baste in pads P19 cut and pad stitch undercollar and baste on P20 make half turnback cuff, plain and matching P21 insert hare pocket tab and button P22 make and attach patch pockets, inverted pleat pockets and box pleat patch pockets P23 use needle and thimble whilst sitting and standing P24 use scissors, shears and iron safely P25 use, control and maintain the sewing machine P26 communicate effectively with colleagues and customers

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 2 SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

Knowledge and understanding You need to know and You need to know and understand: understand: K1 stitches including: K1.1 basting stitch K1.2 felling stitch K1.3 cross stitch K1.4 bartacks K1.5 backstitch K1.6 half backstitch K1.7 hemming stitch K1.8 serging stitch K1.9 side stitch K1.10 prick stitch K1.11 padding stitch K2 how garments are put together K3 shrinking and stretching K4 figure variations K5 make accurate estimates of fabrics and materials K6 make accurate and detailed measurements K7 the company’s relevant quality standards K8 the company’s rules, codes, systems, procedures and guidelines K9 health & safety in the workplace

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 3 SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

Skills Hand sewing: Threading and sewing techniques 1. threading frames and needles 2. using the needle and thimble 3. ten pick-ups and needle point control 4. needle point position 5. sewing with cotton Stitches 6. mark stitching 7. backstitching/half backstitch 8. bar tacks 9. hemming stitch 10. padding stitch 11. basting stitch 12. felling stitch 13. cross stitch 14. serging stitch 15. side stitch 16. prick stitch Machine sewing : Machine settings 1. stitch lengths 2. tension adjustments Threading the machine 3. threading needles 4. threading the machine including pull through 5. changing the spool and the needle 6. fixing and setting the guide Machine control 7. thread control 8. guiding and stopping guiding a needle down a straight line 9. sewing various lengths and stopping at fixed points 10. sewing in bursts 11. knee / hand control Machine sewing and trimming seams 12. sewing centre parallel lines including zigzag, and including with thread 13. sewing chain cut threads

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 4 SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

14. sewing and back tacking 15. back tacking edge 16. sewing a line in single ply and double ply 17. sewing a seam in cloth 18. sewing back tack in cloth (on edge) 19. sewing seam and back tacking 2 20. ripping out seam sewing 21. matching checked and striped cloth 22. scissor cuts Machine maintenance 23. cleaning the machine

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 5 SKSBCTT5

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making

Developed by Skillset

Version Number 3

Date Approved January 2012

Indicative Review December 2015 Date

Validity Current

Status Original

Originating Hand sewing: Threading and sewing techniques 1. threading frames Organisation and needles 2. using the needle and thimble 3. ten pick-ups and needle point control 4. needle point position 5. sewing with cotton Stitches 6. mark stitching 7. backstitching/half backstitc

Original URN O46NBCTT5

Relevant Manufacturing technologies; Crafts, creative arts and design; Design Occupations Associate Professionals; Textile and Garment Trades

Suite Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring

Keywords Make; handcraft; bespoke; coat; forward making

SKSBCTT5 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making 6