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The Watchdog THE WATCHDOG Volume 2, No.4 Autumn, 1994 Guarding your interests.... AN EDITORIAL: MERCHANT SPECIES Based upon our own observations and many comments to chant for the same kind of item) for what they make. These this effect from our readers, it seems now that there are, speak- folks are the Mercedes of the reenacting world. ing very broadly, three kinds of merchants or makers of re- Now you are all sitting on the edges of your seats waiting production Civil War goods. Following are the types we have for us to start assigning names of merchants to these types, identified: aren't you? Well, in the hope ofcontinuing to publish this rag Type One is made up of folks who seem to be in it just for a bit longer without getting sued, we are not going to do that - the money, who do little research, and who make and sell what not yet, anyway. The point of this editorial is to urge someone is easiest to obtain and turn over. They show up in flocks at to find a way to bridge Types Two and Three. If somebody events and fleece many. There were booths from this class of could make really precise reproductions in a timely manner merchant at several recent events that contained not one single for affordable prices, and show up with such pods at events, item appropriate for use in Civil War reenacting! Some of a lot of reenactors' problems would be solved, and the person these folks are cross-overs from the fantasy world of buck- who did this would make a fortune very quickly. This is prob- skinning. These are the Yugos of sutlers - it is too bad they ably impossible, but we sure wish there were a way. Of course, can stay in business. we also wish we could buy a Mercedes for the price of a Type Two contains most of those people who provide the Chevrolet. great bulk of material used by reenactors. They perform a valuable service by getting a lot of people equipped -we are supposed to be re-creating armies after all. Very often, how- ever, the research upon which they base their products is dated SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION 11 or superficial, and the accuracy of their items has been com- The Wdchdog(ISSN 1067-2729) is publiphed quarterly by promised by the introduction of materials and methods better The Watchdog, Inc, a non-pmflt corporation in the Com- suited to modem-day mass production than to the careful du- monwealth of Kentucky. Subscriptiam-are $7.00 annually. plication of original items. This class of folks can be relied To subscribe, send name and addmwith check or money upon to deliver the goods in a timely manner and to allow otder to: The Walchdog most of us to enjoy the hobby and still be able to pay the P.O. Box 4582 mortgage. One might call them the Chevrolet class of mer- FranMlort, KY 406044582 chants. TypeThree makers are an elite few who allow virtually no THE WATCHDOG accepts no advertising. Contributors and writers receive no compensation for their articles. All profifs compromise in their efforts to precisely re-create in detail origi- are donated annually to battlefeld preservation orgtmizations. nal items. Some of them reproduce uniforms and equipment Contributor$ are sdely responsible for the accuracy of the re- so accurately that we suspect that if they could be shipped search and for che opinions expressed in their articles. back in time and issued to Civil War soldiers, the veterans Copyright 1994. All rights reserved. would never be able to tell the difference from what they re- ceived normally. Sadly, these folks are sometimes hard to Nicky Hughes, Publisher find (seldom setting up at events and hardly advertising),are Susan Lyons Hughes, Editor Tom Fugate, Associate Editor ponderously slow in producing their goods, and charge a Geoff Walden, Associate Editor prince's ransom (often twice.as much as a Type Two mer- Mike Cunningbam, Associate Editor I 1 Barbara Kelly, Staff Artist I I EVALUATING REPRODUCTION FEDERAL ENLISTED MEN'S FROCK COATS Michael R. Cunningham, Ph.D At the start of 1861, the manufacture of Federal uni- field. Gardiner's photographs of the Federal dead at the Rose form items was supervised by the Army Clothing Establish- Farm at Gettysburg, for example, show them wearing frock ment at Schuykill Arsenal, PA.. which developed patterns. cut coats. The Quartermaster General's Report of 1865 indi- the cloth, packed it into bundles for local women to hand sew. cates that 21 8.288 frock coats were issued in 1864. and inspected the finished goods. At that time, the U.S. Army The frock coat was issued in four sizes. Size 1 had a 36 consisted of less than seventeen thousand men in I0 regiments inch chest, size 2 was 38 inches, size 3 was 40 inches, and size of Infantry, 3 regiments of Cavalry, and 4 regiments of Artil- 4 was 42 inches. Early war coats were marked with one to lery. As the army expanded following Lincoln's call for 75,000 four dots to indicate size, but later war coats were marked volunteers, arrangments were made for private contractors to with arabic numerals. The frock coat was expected to last 7.5 supply the needs of the volunteer forces. months; 8 were issued over a 5 year enlistment. The frock Contemporary Federal reenactors are in a position simi- coat cost the government $4.08 in 1861 and $14.67 in 1865. lar to the Federal government in late 1861. There is a sub- The materials used in the construction of the frock coat are stantial need for quality uniforms, but little standardization in reported in the Quartermaster's Manual of 1865: wool quality or color, or the details of the construction and sewing. Poor quality is often rationalized with the explana- 1. Body: The body of a medium (size 2) frock coat was tion that variation existed in original specimens, so a uniform made in six pieces out of "I 314 yards of 614 (1.5 yards wide) that bears only a superficial resemblance to what Civil War dark blue woolen cloth, weighing 21 ounces per yard, 56 soldiers were issued should be accepted with prompt payment threads of fillings (woof)each square inch, 60 threads in chain and with no complaint (or so it is argued). (warp) each square inch." The skirt was made in four pieces, Unlike reenactors. the Federal Governemnt of 1861 was with pleats and pockets in the tail. The length of the body was not tolerant of the shoddy materials and workmanship sup- 18 114 inches and the length of the skirt was 16 314 inches. plied by the less reputable contractors. The Federal govern- 2. Body lining: The chests were padded with cotton bat- ment expanded its uniform inspection system to include de- ting, but the back of the coat and the skirts were not lined. pots in New York, Cincinnati, Steubenville and St. Louis. The layer behind the body of the coat was: "314 yard of 24 General Order #91. July 29, 1862, specified that uniform items inch canvas; the padding was: "I sheet of black cotton wad- were to be marked with the contractor's name and with Fed- ding;" the inner lining, next to soldier was made of: "518 yard eral inspector marks in the lining. Late in 1864, the contract of black alpaca 80 inches wide." date was added to the contractor's stamp. 3. Sleeve lining: "718 yard of unbleached muslin or cam- The uniform inspection system was not designed to pro- bric." duce the same level of standardization and interchangeability 4. Collar: The collar was 1 114 to 2 inches high, and lined as that instituted for contract arms. Nonetheless, the inspec- with "118 yard of buckram." Branch of service color was tion system put a substantial amount of uniformity in Federal piped on the neck and cuffs with a twisted cord, or welt, or a enlisted men's uniforms. I have examined more than two dozen piece of thin cloth folded over within the seam of "I inch of Civil War enlisted men's frock coats, and it is my observation sky blue facing." Soldiers often lowered the neck height, and that original specimens are much more similar to one another did not put back the top welt. The neck of frocks also con- than are current reproductions. tained a hook on the left side, and an eye on the right which The enlisted man's frock coat of the Civil War was au- often was removed. thorized in 1851, and reflected male fashion trends of that 5. Cuffs: The cuffs were covered with an exra thickness of decade. Fashion called for a padded chest, tight waist, high material which carried the branch collor piping. The piece is collar and tight cuffs. During the Civil War, men's fashion in the shape of an inverted "V," 4 inches tall at the point in also emphasized ballooning sleeves, with a circumference as front and 2 112 inches tall in the rear. The cuffs closed with much as 20 inches at the elbows. Officers' uniforms followed two functional cuff buttons. these fashions but the enlisted man's frock was conservative 6. Rear pockets: Inset into the tail of skirts were one pocket and had only 14 inch circumference elbows. on either side of the vent, made of: "318 yard of black muslin." The frock is often assumed to be a dress item, but 46% The edge of the pocket opening adjacent to the soldier was of the Army of the Potomac chose to wear frock coats into the covered with a strip of wool one to two inches wide.
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