SKSBCTT4

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

Overview This standard is for those who baste and pocket baste a coat in bespoke tailoring. The job role may involve: 1 preparing a baste 2 marking stitching 3 preparing a canvas 4 undercanvassing 5 liaising with cutter 6 sewing in pockets 7 basting foreparts onto canvas and cutting through for pockets

SKSBCTT4 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making 1 SKSBCTT4

Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

Performance criteria You must be able to: You must be able to: P1 prepare and pad canvas P2 undercanvas foreparts P3 pad lapels P4 shrink and mould chest P5 cut body and sleeve linings, body canvas to rough shape, chest pieces, flaps in all styles, patch pockets, pocketing, stays, jetting and welts P6 cut under collar melton and canvas P7 make undercollar and baste on P8 draw collars P9 cut and shape facings P10 sew up forepart darts and centre back P11 sew and press centre back including centre vents P12 stretch blades P13 baste side seams and shoulders P14 cut and insert out breast welt plain and matching P15 attach stays P16 hand tack welt P17 make and insert flaps in desired style P18 insert jetted pockets (straight, crescent and slanted) in plain and matching P19 attach forepart lining to facing P20 insert in breast and ticket pockets P21 liaise with cutter, returning garment to cutter P22 use needle and thimble whilst sitting and standing P23 use scissors, shears and iron safely P24 use, control and maintain a sewing machine P25 communicate effectively with colleagues

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Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

Knowledge and understanding You need to know and You need to know and understand: understand: K1 stitches, including: K1.1 basting stitch K1.2 felling stitch K1.3 cross stitch K1.4 bartacks K1.5 backstitch K1.6 half backstitch K1.7 hemming stitch K1.8 serging stitch K1.9 side stitch K1.10 prick stitch K1.11 padding stitch K2 how garments are put together K3 shrinking and stretching K4 figure variations K5 construction of specialised garments K6 make accurate estimates of fabrics and materials K7 make accurate and detailed measurements K8 the company’s relevant quality standards K9 the company’s relevant systems, procedures rules, codes and guidelines K10 health & safety in the workplace

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Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

Skills Hand sewing: Threading and sewing techniques 1. threading frames and needles 2. using the needle and thimble 3. ten pick-ups and needle point control 4. needle point position 5. sewing with cotton Stitches 6. mark stitching 7. backstitching/half backstitch 8. bar tacks 9. hemming stitch 10. padding stitch 11. basting stitch 12. felling stitch 13. cross stitch 14. serging stitch 15. side stitch 16. prick stitch Machine sewing: Machine settings 1. stitch lengths 2. tension adjustments Threading the machine 3. threading needles 4. threading the machine including pull through 5. changing the spool and the needle 6. fixing and setting the guide Machine control 7. thread control 8. guiding and stopping guiding a needle down a straight line 9. sewing various lengths and stopping at fixed points 10. sewing in bursts 11. knee/ hand control Machine sewing and trimming seams 12. sewing centre parallel lines including zigzag, and including with thread

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Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

13. sewing chain cut threads 14. sewing and back tacking 15. back tacking edge 16. sewing a line in single ply and double ply 17. sewing a seam in cloth 18. sewing back tack in cloth (on edge) 19. sewing seam and back tacking 20. ripping out seam sewing 21. matching checked and striped cloth 22. scissor cuts Machine maintenance 23. cleaning the machine

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Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making

Developed by Skillset

Version Number 3

Date Approved January 2012

Indicative Review December 2015 Date

Validity Current

Status Original

Originating Skillfast-UK Organisation

Original URN O46NBCTT4

Relevant Manufacturing technologies; Crafts, creative arts and design; Design Occupations Associate Professionals; Textile and Garment Trades

Suite Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring

Keywords Make; handcraft; bespoke; coat; baste; making

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