January 2015 Issue Number One

KASBAH DU TOUBKAL MOROCCO’S PREMIER MOUNTAIN RETREAT Morocco’s premier mountain retreat Deep within the High Atlas Mountains stands KASBAH DU TOUBKAL, a restored mountain retreat set dramatically beneath the towering Jbel Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa. From its imposing location, the Kasbah offers its guests unparalleld views of the surround- ing scenery from seventeen comfortable bedrooms nestled amongst gardens and terraces. Attentive service is provided by the local Berber team. Although it is less than forty miles from Marrakech, the Kasbah’s secluded location makes it a wonderful place to get away from it all. Kasbah du Toubkal is more than a place to stay, it is an experience never to be forgotten.

We are pleased to be a founding member of the prestigious National Geographic network Clear Blue Skies and Crisp Mountain Air Contents Snow has settled on the top of Jbel Toukal, but with a brilliant blue sky and wispy clouds above, it’s a view worthy of the top of a box of That Magical 5% 4 luxurious Belgian chocolates. Hardy trekkers set off for the the Mule Project for the Imlil valley Updates 5 snowline and above, while others continues to improve the lives Education for All content themselves with a couple of mules in the region, and The Mule Project of hours wandering through the as Marrakech Atlas Etape enters Marrakech 6 walnut groves that surround Imlil, its third year we are predicting an followed by a soak in the steamy heat even bigger turn out to tackle the Atlas Etape of the Kasbah’s private hammam Ouka Monster to raise funds for Unique Lodges 8 before enjoying a traditional EFA. Moroccan dinner by candle-glow. But our biggest news this month is Coming Events 10 Welcome to the first edition that National Geographic has brought of our new Kasbah du Toubkal together a small collection of hotels Eye Candy 11 quarterly magazine. After the and resorts to create their Unique Marrakech 12 success of Reasonable Plans and Lodges of the World collection, and A Different Life, the stories of we’re extremely proud to announce Trekking in Style 14 the Kasbah and Education For All that Kasbah du Toubkal has been 16 respectively, (the updated editions selected as one of these special places The Kasbah in of which will become available just to stay. You can read more on page 8. the Media as this magazine goes to ‘digital We’d like this magazine to be a press’), I was delighted to be asked two-way street and look forward to to produce their new online magazine. receiving your comments, photos, Every three months we will be ideas for articles and what you bringing news of what’s happening would like to know more about. in and around the Kasbah, updates You can contact me direct at on the various projects we are [email protected]. working with, stories both local and from around Morocco to give you a We look forward to hearing from taste of this wonderful country, ideas you, for holidays or simply reminders of your stay with us – and a temptation Derek Workman to bring you back again. Editor Education For All (EFA) is going …and everyone at from strength to strength, with its fifth house well on its way to completion; KASBAH DU TOUBKAL 3 That MAGICAL 5% Association Bassins d’Imlil

Before a stone was laid, the ethos of needs of an increasing number Collective decision-making Kasbah du Toubkal was that as much of girls whose lives would have is nothing new in Moroccan as possible would go back into the been spent simply passing the culture, and with the Association community, but it was the arrival of years in remote villages so they Bassins d’Imlil the villages of the film scouts in 1996 who wanted to can continue their education – as Imlil valley have an umbrella use the hilltop location of the Kasbah far as university in some cases; association and, more importantly, to film scenes forKundun , Martin environmental projects that would a source of funding separate from Scorsese’s epic story of the early life falter for lack of small amounts of each independent village, giving of the Dalai Lama, that created the money to cover expenses are kept the opportunity to help fund umbrella organisation under which alive; employment and training are larger projects that would benefit the five percent added to your bill offered, but most of all, hope and the villages both individually and would be used to enrich the lives of possibility. collectively. the villagers of the Imlil valley. The first major project that the It isn’t always the five percent itself Association undertook was the The Kasbah agreed that the location that keeps many of these projects creation of a rubbish clearance could be used, but only on the going, but provided the seed corn system, with funds from Kasbah understanding that the villagers that gave confidence to larger du Toubkal and the fee from the themselves agreed and that the fee funding organisations and individual making of Kundun. For more than would go towards providing much donors who saw that Kasbah du a decade the detritus had been needed services for the greater good Toubkal, the Association Bassins transported in a mule cart, but the of all. The Association Bassins d’Imlil d’Imlil, and any projects associated animal was relieved of its duties was created to receive the fee and with them were well organised and in 2009, when the Association use it as a basis for funding future secure – and made sure the money bought the tipper wagon that now projects. They are still the main went where it was supposed to does the rounds of the villages. administrators of the five percent go - to the betterment of the local supplement. community. Through the funding of this five percent the villages of the Imlil Dreams are only the plans of the reasonable Valley have services unknown elsewhere in rural Morocco; with Reasonable Plans tells the story of Kasbah du Toubkal, its origins, its life with- in the community and the benefits that the Magical 5% has brought to the Imlil Valley their support of EFA they fulfil the and beyond. 4 Educate a boy and you educate the man; educate a girl and you educate a family, a community, a nation.

In the rural communities of the High Atlas Mountains most girls will finish their education when they leave primary school. A system of state-run boarding houses exists beside secondary schools in some of the larger towns, but parents don’t always have the confidence in them to allow their daughters to live often far from the family home and village. Equally importantly, they don’t have the money to pay for their daughters’ accommodation. In 2007, Educaton For All , with the help of the Association Basins d’ Imlil, opened its first boarding house in the market town of Asni, to give access to secondary education to 36 girls from remote villages. Two years later a second boarding house was opened in the remote town of Talaat n’Yacoub, 100km of twisting mountain roads from Marrakech. Since then three more houses have been opened. By 2016, 186 girls will be enjoying an education that was beyond even their sweetest dreams only a few years ago. But EFA is more than just numbers, it is people, hopes and aspira- tions. From the first group of ten shy 13-year-olds who only spoke their You can read the full story of all these native Berber tongue that walked into the rented house in Asni before projects and more in the boarding house was completed, five are studying at Marrakech University: biology, philosophy, French, and Islamic culture, and be- tween them are fluent in English, Arabic, French and Italian. Over the next months we will be bringing you more about the girls from Education For All. You can keep up to date by visiting their website and downloading their regular newlsetter. A Different Life tells you the full story of this wonderful adventure. Remember - many logos, photos and text take you to more information

One of the never witnessed at first-hand the suffering changing elements of a pack mule with an infected sad- burns, causing enormous discomfort of life in the High dle sore. Since his return in 2008 he for the mule. Cousquer developed Atlas is the con- has worked closely with local mule- a simple sheath of leather that is stant plodding of teers and mountain guides to better wrapped around rope donated by the mule as it goes the life of the animal on which so mountaineers, allowing the pressure about its daily work many of the community depend. to be spread over a wider, smoother as the main – in some Part of Cousquer’s work is in the area. In the spirit of co-operation that cases only – form of trans- undoing of traditional ways of work- permeates the area, the local wom- port throughout remote villages. ing with mules, and sometimes the en’s co-operative in Imlil is already You may even find yourself as part simplest change of custom can yield producing the sheaths, adding income of its cargo as you are carried up the enormous benefits. It also helps to the family home while saving their rugged slope from Imlil to Kasbah du if it involves the local community working animal from considerable Toubkal. beyond the muleteers themselves. pain. Glen Cousquer is a vet and Plastic or nylon rope is readily International Mountain Leader, and available in Morocco; it’s cheap, Keep up to date with the on his first trip to Morocco in 1995, strong and durable, but it can be the mules at while still a veterinary student, he cause of severe and repeated friction Kasbah Mules 5 A Ride for Everyone

I first came to Morocco in the early 1970s, and instantly fell in love with this enigmatic country. I loved the exotic mix of cultures and the geographic extremes of high mountains, Atlantic coastline, sand dunes and snow-covered vistas. Above all I loved the people, their history and the way their colourful culture welcomes the visitor. Being a keen cyclist, I’ve crossed the country on bike from the Mediterranean coast through the Rif mountains, on to Marrakech and then up into the High Atlas Mountains. From a cyclist’s point of view the magnificent and varied terrain does not get much better. With cycling coming of age in Morocco, and with Marrakech to Oukaïmeden as an ascent to rank with any of the climbs in the Tour de France, I believe the time for a classic cyclosportive in Morocco has arrived. While the Marrakech Atlas Etape is a challenging ride in one of the most beautiful regions of North Africa, the intention is that it will also generate income to help less fortunate members of the community—and what better charity to support than Education For All? I hope you can join us in April 2015 for the Marrakech Atlas Etape. Mike McHugo Kasbah du Toubkal

6 A Ride for Everyone A click on all logos and some photos and text takes you more articles and information

The Marrakech Atlas Etape is a true cyclosportive catering for all, it’s not only inclusive and friendly it’s an adventure, an experience full of sights and sounds you will never forget. Nigel Hale-Hunter, BPM Cycling Coach Would I go back and ride the Marrakech Atlas Etape again? One hundred per cent. A great event, super-friendly and extremely well organised. Matt Brett, Roac.cc More riders’ comments and testimonials. Click on the main photo to see more of the Marrakech Atlas Etape 2014 The Marrakech Atlas Etape is an inclusive event with 2 routes to choose from. The full ascent will challenge the serious amateur or even professional rider, as well as passionate and determined cyclists who just want to do this monster of a climb with the exhilaration of the descent. ROUTE 1: 140 KILOMETRE course really is awe inspiring Marrakech to Oukaïmeden. as the road snakes its way ever 70km out and 70km back. 2129m higher passing the villages The Ouka Monster of altitude gain. and terraced fields of the Marrakech Atlas Etape Berbers of the High Atlas. The Video Route description route back to Marrakech is This route leaves from the southern almost all downhill and the edge of Marrakesh at 495m and views truly spectacular. You can read more about the heads south, following a very gentle gradient (average 1.25%) ROUTE 2: 60 KILOMETRE Marrakech Atlas for some 29km to the start of Marrakech to the Ourika Etape the Ourika valley at an altitude of Valley. and register for the 2015 event 860m. Spectacular views of the 30km out and 30km back. here snow-capped Atlas Mountains 365m of altitude gain. should be seen throughout this Route description gentle rise to the start of the This follows the same route Ourika Valley. The route then High, Ride and follows the Ourika valley for as the first one, the turn- Handsome around point being the start 11km to where the road branches is the story of a six-day out of the valley (975m) and the main of the Ourika Valley bike ride through the High climb to Oukaïmeden begins. The Tshe return is a fast gentle Atlas Mountains. Click on next 30km of the course will rise decent back to Marrakech. the cover to read about the ups and downs of 1649m (average gradient 5.49%) This route is achievable by this exilarating ride. to the ski station at 2,624m. almost anybody who has The physical and human reasonable fitness and wants scenery on this section of the to be involved in this event. 7 Being Unique

Just as the first edition of only six in the whole of the African our magazine was going to continent. Kasbah du Toubkal press, National Geographic “Obviously we’re flattered to launched Unique Lodges of the be chosen,” says Mike McHugo, were chosen as one of the top ten World, ‘a collection of hotels and co-founder of the Berber hospitality eco hotels worldwide by the highly resorts that treat you to one of-a-kind centre, the preferred name for the regarded booking site, Mr and Mrs experiences while treating our planet Kasbah as distinct from being an Smith, which complements their with care and respect’. The selec- hotel, as it stresses hospitality over selection by Fodor as one of the tion of only twenty-two retreats traditional hotel service. “I’m sure 36 of the world’s best ecolodges in worldwide is based on respect we were noticed because of the 2012. for local cultures and ecosystems, awards we’ve won and the books “National Geographic is recog- while offering unique experiences we’ve been in, although there was nised internationally for the work for guests that support local com- a considerable vetting process to they do preserving cultures and the munities and embrace sustainable go through before being selected. environment, and I think Unique practises. We have a proven history of our Lodges is part of that concern, with It comes as no surprise that commitment to the local com- each of the member hotels and Kasbah du Toubkal has been munity, sustainability and to the resorts being committed both selected to be one of the founder environment in general.” A point individually and collectively.” members of this unique group, the further amplified by the fact only one in Morocco and one of that in November last year they See what the Daily Mail says.

A selection of beautiful National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World

Fogo Island, Canada Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort, Canada Longditude 131, Australia

Southern Ocean Lodge, Australia Three Camel Lodge, Mongolia The Brando, French Polynesia 8 ...and why the Kasbah du Toubkal was chosen...

“One of my favourite places on earth.” tripadvisor comment

9 Don’t Walk - un Howard Chambers sees no point in walkingR up a mountain if you can run up it - and he takes Jbel Toubkal in his stride It’s 7.30 on a crisp training camps. mountain morning; “Ideally we are looking at top-end amateur athletes who not a trace of cloud want to train at six thousand feet and above, using the in the pale blue sky. Kasbah as a base. The rough itinerary is to get out on daily Howard Chambers training runs, keep as high as possible while getting in plenty strolls through of climbing opportunity.” the gardens of Because of the terrain there are plenty of options, de- the Kasbah in pending on the clientele. One is to bus to the ski station at shorts, T-shirt and Oukaïmeden and then run back in the company of Berber running shoes, flex- guides who live locally, in concert with the ethos of the ing his legs as he Kasbah, which is to return as much of the income as possible goes. Within a few into the local community. Another is to make a circular route minutes he begins through the stunning natural landscape of the Imlil Valley. For his run, passing a bemused ancient sat the more hardy, Howard would like to include a two-day run, on a mule, up to Aremd, the highest of the seven villages in spending the night in Berber homes or refuges. the Imlil Valley. “I think that what we have here is something that not As an experienced mountain runner and member of even the most experienced mountain runners will have Saddleworth Runners, Howard can spot a good route. “This found. Not only is the Toubkal Natural Park glorious and is superb country for trail running. Everybody has seen the offers top quality running, but it is an opportunity to spend value of road races going up and up, but trail running is very time with the Berber people themselves, who are known as popular, so there’s real potential for people who want to being the most delightful and considerate of people.” get into trail running to come to the Kasbah. There are lots Training dates are 25th February – 1st March and 2nd - of good marked trails and a lot of potential.” 6th March. You can find more information at: This potential has been converted into two five-day The Right Altitude Over the next few months we will be offering a series of special interest courses. Keep checking at Events at the Kasbah

Surrounded by glorious mountain scenery, waterfalls, valleys and rivers, with panoramic views of the spectacular natu- ral environment, Kasbah du Toubkal is a at the spiritual haven of peace in the foothills of Yoga Jbel Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. You have the opportunity to experience yoga in this engaging and tranquil setting in the KASBAH experienced hands of Tara Fraser. 20 - 27 May 2015 With a lifelong interest in yoga, Tara has been teaching since 1993, and believes yoga Lead by Tara Fraser can help everyone to live well, feel good and of Yoga Junction in London age gracefully. author of The Easy Yoga Workbook There will be yoga sessions throughout and four other best-selling books the day, but you will also have plenty of time on yoga. to go trekking, explore local villages, take a hammam or simply relax on one of the Kas- Further information from [email protected] bah’s roof terraces. 10 He who does not travel does not know the value Eye of men. Candy Moorish proverb Morocco is one of the world’s most beautiful and photogenic countries - as these photobooks show

‘For at least the past ten years, I have lovingly paged through every book about Morocco that I could get my hands on. Morocco was definitely worth the wait and exceeded my very high expectations in every respect. The sights, the sounds, the smells, the textures, the colors were glorious and evocative of my every Moroccan dream.’ Bonnie Riehl

(Please note: Firefox uses might find some images pixilated.)

‘It’s very easy when taking photos to try for an element of one-upmanship and capture images of hidden corners and unknown places. But most people don’t have time to search these out, so why not show them places they will be able to see, and entice them to come and see them for themselves.’ Derek Workman

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11 The Beautiful haos of MarrakechC "There are certain places on the surface of the earth that possessmore magic than others. And one of those places is Marrakesh." Paul Bowles Nothing quite prepares you for Marrakech - at their homeland before the perilous journey to the the sites, the sounds, the souks and the smells. Americas. In the middle of the 11th century Marrakech was Radiating off the square, the entrances to the souks, nothing more than a kasbah and an encampment with their cupboard-size shops of dangling lamps, surrounded by an embankment protected by thorn racks of soft leatherbabouches (wonderfully comfort- bushes, an oasis under the watchful gaze of the able slippers), brightly coloured ceramics and elegant snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. It soon became djellabas, entice you into darkened mysterious alley- the most important trading settlement for the camel ways, the heart of the medina. trains carrying their precious cargos of gold, spices, Marrakech is one of the most exotic – and safest – ivory and slaves from Timbuktu. Jemaa el Fna, the places you could chose to visit, but pause for a mo- ancient heart of the city that still raises the pulse of ment and put your mind beyond the gilt and gaudi- visitors with its frenetic activity, was central to the ness. The same sense of awe and bedazzlement that Arab slave trade, many of whom would continue on- you feel has been felt by visitors to the Red City for ward to Mogador (now Essaouira), taking a last look almost a thousand years.

Discover Ltd, the British owners of Kasbah RECENT ARTICLES ABOUT THE RED CITY du Toubkal, have been arranging trips to Morocco since 1978 and are ABTA Bonded, CNN Go What to do in Marrakech holders of an ATOL license and members of AITO. 10 Amazing attractions We will be happy to arrange hotel accomodation, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC Deep in the Suqs airport transfers, guided tours etc for your stay in notes from the road The Marrakech Orangerie Marrakech. The Hedonist The Moroccan Hammam

12 The Restaurant at the end of the World

Jemaa el Fna, The Place of the Dead, The Mosque at the End of the World, North Africa’s most vibrant and exotic square, the ancient heart of Marrakech, where snake charmers, storytellers and acrobats entertain the passing crowds.

By day the bustle of henna artists, slices of liver dribbled with a green of the square, a row of chefs steam potion sellers, fresh orange juice chilli sauce, or a handful of mer- mounds of snails in battered enam- vendors and red-robed water sell- guez, thin spicy sausages, and you el bowls. The menu is simple, snails ers; by night the curling smoke of will be set up for a stroll around the or snails, but as the little gastropods a hundred barbeques spirals over souks. Kebab shops appear on al- served in a tantalizing broth are a the largest open-air restaurant in most every street corner around the gastronomic institution in Moroc- the world. When dusk falls, hand- globe these days, but in Marrakech co, it isn’t always easy to get a seat carts are wheeled into Jemaa el Fna vendors snub the effete pressed at these stalls. Apparently wonder- and unfolded to reveal portable meat served elsewhere in favour of ful for the digestion, locals drain grills, tables, benches, pots and slices of real lamb, glistening with the broth after having their fill of pans. While the mounds of food dribbling fat, sprinkled with cumin the snails. (They also often carry are prepared young men in long and salt as the cook hands it over a safety pin to wheedle the little white coats work the crowds trying to you wrapped in a to convince you that the succulent paper cone. Chicken dishes served at their stall are the with preserved lem- absolutely top-notch best; “Delia ons, delicately spiced Smith created our menu”, “All our with kasbour (fresh fish comes fresh from Sainsbury’s”. green coriander) and And Sainsbury’s would probably be served with piquant proud of the fish the stalls served, olives; brochettes dipped in flour seasoned with salt of lamb and liver, and saffron before being deep- seasoned with red fried in bubbling oil until crisp and pepper and cumin, golden. carefully grilled over charcoal, which spits Something to suit every pocket and smokes as the There are stalls to fit every taste and luscious fats fall on pocket; a bowl of harira, a tradi- to it; beef or lamb tajines, cooked devils out, but a toothpick is usu- tional rich tomato and lentil soup with raisins, prunes and almonds, ally provided.) The exotic flavours with beef or chicken, have their coni- and ambience of night-time feeding seasoned with ginger, cal tops whisked at Jemaa el Fna will stay as one of pepper, and cinnamon, off by the wait- your most vivid memories of the or b’sarra, white bean ers, just as the Red City, although you may want soup with olive oil and lids of elegant to leave the tajine of sheep’s or calf’s garlic; add a sandwich silver salvers feet and the sliced camel’s head to served in a khobz, a would be at the the locals to enjoy, and it would small, round flat loaf Savoy. take a certain amount of culinary with the top nipped off courage to sample a cooked sheep’s to form a pocket, filled Steaming snails head or bowl of sheep’s testicles – with freshly deep-fried On the west side cooked, of course. 13 Read what Lonely Planet Traveller says Trekking in Style 5 nights in the High Atlas mountains 2 nights in Marrakech Trekking in Style is a new concept in trekking that allows visitors to stay in luxury accommodation without all of the hardships traditionally associated with trips to this spectacular region. Our Trekking in Style package also provides each couple with their own personal mountain guide who will be on hand for the duration of your stay to help with planning treks. You can walk as little or as much as you like! Guests will stay at Dar Imlil—in the trailhead village of Imlil—and also at the Azzaden Trekking Lodge in the re- mote Azzaden Valley. All the trekking is fully supported with a mule and muleteer to carry your luggage when- ever needed. The High Atlas Mountains Marrakech The High Atlas Mountains, which often dominate the Marrakech is built around the 12th century Koutoubia skyline to the south of Marrakech, have always played Mosque whose beautiful minaret dominates the an important role for the city not least with regard to skyline and can be seen from almost every approach commerce. Whilst Marrakech is in itself a fascinating to the city. Any visit to Marrakech must include a visit city, a whole new experience awaits those who to the medina and its colourful souks (marketplace) venture south into the mountains. where you can barter for carpets, leather goods, Download the full Trekking in Style dossier jewellery, lanterns and spices. HERE

Special Offer We are currently offering a free accommodation upgrade from Dar Imlil (our house in Imlil village) to the Kasbah subject to availability.

14 Ben Youssef Madrasa, Marrakech For more information you can contact KASBAH DU TOUBKAL at [email protected]

Toubkal Lodge - Aït Aïssa

It’s six in the evening, the time of thepaseo , and I sit on a rock on the edge of Aït Aïssa, a mud-brick village clinging to the hillside, the next but last in the Azzaden Valley before the road comes to a dead end at Tizi Oussem. One way in, one way out. Kids play a game, posing with huge smiles until I raise my camera, then instantly dropping into a huddle and hiding their faces. Much of the vegetables to make a sold in local markets are passable grown here; potatoes, meal), to onions, cherries, apples, helping me recognise the lemon thyme, wild and it’s said that the rich sage and juniper that I can cook them with. red earth on the west side of the valley adds a On our climb we were accompanied by the sweetness to the flavour insistent clatter of cicadas, that retreated into that the grey soil on the a stony silence as we approached. The air was other side doesn’t have. so crystal clear that I felt as if I could touch Some of the produce will the other side of the valley. Stoically climbing appear in the meal I’ll with us was Brahim and his mule, and when I be eating at the trekking ask why he sometimes rides cowboy style, legs lodge, a mini version of the either side of the animal, and sometimes side- Berber comfort of Kasbah saddle, he explains that he rides side-saddle du Toubkal. on the rockier slopes so that if his mule takes an unexpected tumble he can get off quicker. Behind me is a five-hour Good thinking when your livelihood depends trek from Kasbah, during on a good pair of legs. which my guide, Abdeslam Maachou, a young man who has an encyclopaedic knowledge Tomorrow we return to Kasbah over Tizi Oudid, of the flora and fauna of the area despite his at 2219 metres, but before that I have the age, has kept me entertained and informed, pleasure of a chicken tajine to look forward to everything from how the locals trap squirrels and a night of silence and twinkling stars. with walnuts (although you need a few of them

15 The Kasbah in the Media Click on any LOGO to find out what’s been happening at Kasbah du Toubkal

As seen in...

‘After a four-year slowdown due to the economic recession and the Arab Spring shockwaves, Morocco is back with a bang and proving once again a hotspot for big U.S. shoots.’ Read the full article by Elsa Keslassy.

JAMES BOND Daniel Craig and Mark Strong were excited to meet Lahcen and Said at Kasbah du Toubkal.

Kasbah du Toubkal - Living the High Life Neil Sowerby holes up in the spectacular Atlas Mountains

Spotted at the World Travel Market in London

Planet Appetite: MarrakChef Culinary Competition

Climbing Mount Toubkal against all odds

16 I hope you have enjoyed the first issue of our magazine. I’d very much appreciate your com- ments, ideas, photos, stories – anything that you think can help us develop over the coming issues. Please contact me direct at [email protected] If you would like future issues to land on your digital doormat, please contact us with your email addressHERE . I promise hand on heart we’ll keep it to ourselves. Until next time, Derek Workman Editor

17 Register online at www.marrakech-atlas-etape.com Keep up to date with our glorious corner of Morocco... Click on the logo to receive future issues of the Kasbah du Toubkal’s quarterly magazine.

www.kasbahdutoubkal.com [email protected]

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