Page 1 Thursday

wwdmen’s The beige trend abounds — plus s PARIS: Men’s Wearhouse, Vilebrequin Reviews s of Hermès, and more, pages 10 to 13.

Chloé, s BEAT: Dressing like the PARIScollections/fall ’09 and more, Jonas Brothers — or at least pages 4 to 8. their female fans, page 9.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 12, 2009 • $3.00

Sportswear/Men’s WwDThursday s Michael Kors’ wool and viscose blazer, Burberry London’s silk and cotton shirt, Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s baby camel and elastic pants. Burberry Prorsum neck piece; Dunhill gloves. Fanning The Flames “In this business you have to be aggressive and have aggressive feelings,” said Alexander McQueen before his show. And in the spectacular fashion parade he presented Tuesday night, he put his emotion where his fashion is in the most audacious and controversial collection of the season. There was plenty of high drama, as evidenced in this boldly striped evening dress, worn with a Philip Treacy hat and Leigh Bowery lipstick. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 8.

Adjustments Ahead as Charges Push Neiman’s to $509 Million Loss By Sharon Edelson The loss for the three months ended quarter of last year. Adjusted earnings Writedowns of more than half a billion Jan. 31 compares with net profits of before interest, taxes, depreciation dollars led to a $509.3 million net loss in $44.3 million in the corresponding and amortization was $24.6 million, Neiman Marcus Inc.’s second quarter, period a year earlier. Excluding $560.1 compared with $187.3 million the and the retailer said Wednesday it would million in impairment charges, the previous year. ni o adjust assortments, return merchandise company’s operating loss for the quarter The luxury retailer’s customers, hard and seek greater markdown money as was $32.6 million versus operating hit by the economy, pushed sales down

vanni giann vanni the economy continues to struggle. income of $134.3 million in the second See Charges, Page 17 o PHOTO BY gi PHOTO BY WWD.COM

WWDThursDSportswearay FASHION 4 Alexander McQueen presented a fall collection ™ that was an ode to recycling and reinvention, set against a junk-heap backdrop. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 1 Neiman Marcus Inc. said a cautious consumer and markdowns needed to coax them into stores WINDOWS OF OPPORTUNITY led to a $509.3 million second-quarter loss. 3 Bulgari is to cut jobs, reduce the number of Creative Displays May Still Tempt Nervous Consumers products and close unprofitable stores after its earnings fell 45.1 percent in 2008. As the economy continues on a downward slide, apparel in the past month. Women are suppressing 3 Gap Inc. chairman and ceo Glenn Murphy uttered even those who are not in dire financial straits are their desire to acquire, but potent enticement may many mea culpas during a speech at the Bank skittish about spending money. What, then, can encourage them to reach for their wallets. of America Consumer Conference. retailers do to tempt the timid? “At Barneys, we aim to tantalize and titillate: 12 MEN’S: Salvatore Ferragamo has unveiled a “Create desire,” explains Simon Doonan, creative our goal is to present irresistible product to our new men’s space at its Fifth Avenue flagship director for Barneys New York, whose windows are customers in an intriguing way,” Doonan says. and is mulling opening more men’s stores. the gold standard for imaginative presentations. “We present Barneys as an interesting place, a “The mandate for all window dressers is the same place of ideas.” 14 LOS ANGELES: Fledgling clothing labels are in good times and bad.” Window displays, then, are not merely vehicles working to drum up business with West Coast More than half of women get their wardrobe for the season’s newest looks, or a simple reflection stores at the upcoming contemporary market. ideas from in-store or window displays, according to of the outside world. Retailers seem unwilling 18 President Obama signed a $410 billion spending the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle to make drastic changes in the package that establishes a Vietnam and China Monitor™ survey. And females front windows; sober displays apparel import monitoring program. making more than $50,000 per for sober times, after all, will

s EYE: A crowd gathered at the Tribeca Grand for the year are significantly more likely “Our goal is to present irresistible only scare already apprehensive 20 Emily Blunt premiere of “The Great Buck Howard,” in which than those making less to be product to our customers in an shoppers away. John Malkovich plays a washed-up mentalist. influenced by window displays. “We have not fundamentally in Dsquared2. intriguing way.” Classified Advertisements...... 19 In one of her last interviews changed our approach in recent before leaving Lord & Taylor, – Simon Doonan, Creative Director, months, though I will admit I have To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. LaVelle Olexa, senior vice- Barneys New York been making a point of including WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 president and the store’s longtime more bags and shoes in ready-to- FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. fashion director, said windows can wear displays,” Doonan remarks. VOLUME 197, NO. 52. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June still capture the imagination and “Accessories are still, even in these and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division provide an uplifting moment. recessionary times, the crack cocaine of fashion.” of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services “There’s so much negativity circulating today, Places like A/X Armani Exchange stores provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage that when store windows can provide a moment have taken a different tact by installing deejays paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. that lifts the spirits, make us smile, entice us again to in store windows, attracting shoppers with the Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS dream and believe that shopping should still be fun – latest club music. to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS they are worthwhile,” Olexa states. The NRF’s Butler says there are also new CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed Some 40% of women admit to being impulse technologies available for retailers. on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all shoppers, according to Monitor data. Among the “You can have sound in glass so if a customer editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. younger set – those aged 13-to-24 – 46% were more is in front of the window, only she can hear it. Or For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. likely to buy on a whim. And overall, 42% of women you can make the storefront a computer screen so Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services making less than $25,000 admitted to making a customer can touch it and go to the shop’s web that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT impulse purchases. Interestingly, the Monitor survey site” to retrieve more information about the store RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, has found that these impulse shoppers are more likely or its product. UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER to get their clothing ideas from window displays But in these economically challenged times, MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY than women who plan out their purchases: 56% of simpler may be green lighted more often. That WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE impulse shoppers say they use windows as a source of does not translate as chintzy, Butler says. Having ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. clothing ideas, compared to 50% of shoppers who spent more than 25 years at department stores, he plan their purchases. recalls that with limited budgets – but some extra The National Retail Federation’s Daniel work – his people could mimic the sublime looks DAILY A meaningful Butler, vice-president of retail operations, confirms of the flagship stores. It boils down to creativity. “ that windows do a “I once saw QUote improvement in the great job of drawing Sources of Clothing Ideas windows covered in those who might with white paint, economy will bring [the aspirational] simply be walking by. with just a small “They’re great hole to draw people customer back into stores, although she at getting people over to peer in at to stop in and see the display,” he will be more discerning than before. Once the what you have, recalls. “Sometimes especially if you you see really economy improves, the core customer’s have a hot item in creative attempts the window,” he like that to capture shopping will become more normal. says. “And then, customer attention. once you have This spring, stores — Burton Tansky, chairman and chief ”executive of them in the store, will be watching Neiman Marcus Inc., on consumer trends. Page one. there are all the t h e i r b u d g e t s other visuals and and controlling product placement expenses. And TODAY ON techniques to get we may see more Hermès fall t h e c u s t o m e r s creative things to 2009. engaged.” m a k e w i n d ow s D e s p i t e relevant and make t h e e c o n o m i c a difference.” downturn, the majority of female consumers (61%) And perhaps remind women that it is safe to go WWD report to the Monitor survey that they still love or back inside. .com enjoy shopping. And the younger they are, the • Ongoing coverage of Paris Fashion harder they are bitten by the bug: 78% of females This story is one in a series of articles based on find- aged 13-to-24, and 82% of women 25-to-34 say Week including reviews, ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ they love to shop. tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these parties and Fashion Scoops However, the dour economy has taken its toll; pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it • Videos of key collections from more than 2 out of 10 women have spent no money ere G New York, Milan and Paris on clothes in the past month, and more than one- relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Feu third (36%) of those aged 56-to-70 were significantly and behavior regarding clothing, e • Full runs of show from all collections

more likely to have sealed the wallet shut. Of those appearance, fashion, fiber selection and PHAN • Calendar for L.A. Market Week and e T who spent, the average shopper dropped only $68 on many other timely, relevant subjects. S new restaurants to check out y B • More photos of the HOTO

P beige trend in WWDMen’s WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 3 WWD.COM Bulgari Cutting Jobs, Closing Stores Gap Looks to Redeem Brand Promise By Sharon Edelson By Andrew Roberts this year, which we signed contracts for prior to [the collapse of] Lehman [Brothers], but we NEW YORK — Gap Inc. chairman and chief executive officer Glenn Murphy MILAN — Bulgari SpA is to cut jobs, reduce its will close others, because, at this point, we can- uttered many mea culpas during a speech Thursday at the Bank of number of products and close unprofitable not allow ourselves the luxury of having stores America 2009 Consumer Conference. Among the company’s sins: not ex- stores this year after the company’s earnings which neither have a strategic value nor make citing consumers enough to lure them into stores, being overly confident in fell 45.1 percent in 2008. a profit nor have a realistic possibility of doing the brick-and-mortar channel and not wielding Gap’s considerable buying “[This year] will be a very difficult year,” so in the allotted time,” Trapani said. power to negotiate better prices from manufacturers. Bulgari chief executive officer Francesco He specified that management was work- “We have not played the hand we’ve been given as well as we should Trapani told WWD in an interview on ing on reducing investments and keeping the have,” Murphy said. “We’re fixing the North American business. The mar- Wednesday, without detailing the specifics of inventory at cash neutral levels this year and ket leader should never lose market share. We’ve been losing market share the plan. He also declined to give forecasts, cash free in 2010. He also anticipated Bulgari’s for the last couple of years. It’s unacceptable.” saying, “We don’t feel able to give a number of debt would remain at about 304 million euros, Sales at Gap Inc. decreased 8 percent in 2008 and comp-store sales any meaning because the situation is so very or $385.7 million, as it was at the end of 2008. dropped 12 percent compared with a 4 percent slide the prior year. In the complicated.” Trapani added: “Facing equally challeng- fourth quarter, Gap Inc.’s comp-store sales declined 14 percent, compared Net profits for the year ending Dec. 31 ing situations in the past, Bulgari has always with a decrease of 3 nearly halved to 82.9 million euros, or $122 been able to evolve, becoming one of the main percent in the fourth Sales at Gap Inc. million, from 150.9 million euros, or $206.8 players in the worldwide luxury market.” quarter of last year. decreased 8 million, in 2007, which Trapani attributed to Revenues fell in all categories except per- “Part of that is the percent in 2008. a “drastic” and “unforeseen” 15 percent drop fumes, where sales rose 12 percent to 248.4 macroeconomic en- in fourth-quarter sales brought on by the glob- million euros, or $365.5 million. vironment,” Murphy al financial crisis. He also cited unexpected Watch sales were hit hardest, falling 10.6 said. “A large part of losses on exchange-rate hedges. The figures percent to 263.7 million euros, or $388 million, that is us. We have to missed analysts’ estimates. while sales of jewels, Bulgari’s core business, stop the erosion of fell 2.5 percent to 448.4 mil- market share.” Bulgari’s earnings lion euros, or $659.7 million. Apparel at Gap fell 45.1 percent Accessories sales slipped 1.5 has been criticized in 2008. percent to 83.1 million euros, or as being alternately $122.3 million. too fashion-oriented Looking at revenues by re- or too basic. “We’ve gion, the picture was similarly returned to classics,” negative, with only the Middle Murphy said, “categories we feel are very sought after. Denim is a key East and Asia Bulgari’s biggest driver of the overall brand. In late summer, we’ll come back with a very market, recording a gain, al- serious proactive marketing push for denim. As the basic-classic business though the latter was boosted by becomes stronger, we’ll look at more fashion elements.” favorable currency fluctuations. Banana Republic’s clothes “got too serious,” Murphy said. “They lost Sales increased 9.1 percent to that cool factor, that edgy factor. That’s easily correctable. I’m disappoint- 63.3 million or $93.1 million, in ed it happened. The brand is still a significant and important part of our the Middle East, and edged up portfolio.” 1.6 percent to 436 million euros, Old Navy hasn’t lived up to its promise either, according to Murphy. or $641.5 million in Asia. Sales “These are times when Old Navy should be gaining market share,” he said. decreased 1.3 percent to 421.7 “The fact that it was not in tip-top shape in 2008 is a huge disappointment million euros, or $620.5 million, to me and the organization.” Nonetheless, a new advertising campaign for in Europe; dropped 11.7 percent Old Navy launched this month and includes TV commercials, print circu- in Italy, and fell 12.5 percent to lars and online ads. 154.4 million euros, or $227.2 Because of the company’s long-running problems, Gap Inc. has put off million in the Americas. updating its fleet of stores. That’s no longer possible. “We don’t have a Bulgari proposed a divi- store that customers walk into and go, ‘wow,’” he said. “When Old Navy dend of 0.10 euros a share, or was designed in 1994, it was revolutionary, for sure, and different. The 13 cents, from 0.32 euros, or 47 fact is that we redid the store in 2008 and it’s almost identical to the one cents, a share the previous fi- launched in 1994. Shame on us.” nancial year. Old Navy is already testing two prototypes. Gap will unveil new store The company issued the re- designs in the third quarter and Banana Republic’s first test stores and a sults after the close of the Milan new outlet store design will launch in the summer. “The Achilles’ heel of Bourse. Bulgari’s stock closed our organization has been traffic,” Murphy said. “For the last five years, we down 1.2 percent to 3.21 euros, haven’t been able to get people to come in the door. We have to go and get or $4.07. The shares have fallen the traffic. We have to speak to people. There will be a shift in our market- nearly 55 percent in the last 12 ing. We have to become more proactive.” months. The online and international businesses both grew by $500 million last In other Bulgari news, a St. year. E-commerce has a universality platform with all four brands. Athleta, Maarten-based jewelry deal- the women’s activewear brand Gap bought six months ago, will become the er has sued Bulgari Corp. of fifth brand. “The women’s athletic market is worth $30 billion,” Murphy America, alleging the luxury said, noting that 72 percent of Gap’s customers are women. “We have to brand reneged on a deal to drive more eyeballs to Athleta and then consider other opportunities. Full-year revenues slipped 1.4 percent to turn it into a Caribbean showcase for Bulgari There could be a sixth brand in our future.” 1.08 billion euros, or $1.59 billion. The com- wares. In a breach of contract complaint filed With 125 stores, Gap’s international business is underdeveloped. About pany did not break out fourth-quarter figures. on March 5 in federal court in Manhattan, Joe’s 60 franchised Gap stores will bow this year and Banana Republic could go Dollar figures are converted at average ex- Jewelry International says Bulgari approached to Japan and the United Kingdom. change rates for the periods to which they refer. it in October 2007 with a three-year plan to ex- The outlet division’s 300 stores have the highest sales per square foot in After raising prices in 2008, Trapani said pand its presence in the retailer’s showroom the company and give the highest return on investment. “There is a huge they would likely stay flat this year, while not- in Philipsburg, St. Maarten. The suit alleges opportunity to take that business global,” Murphy said. ing Bulgari had upped its perfume prices “a that on Dec. 1 Bulgari told Joe’s Jewelry that Gap Inc. decreased its capital expenditure by 37 percent, or $250 mil- little bit” worldwide in January, “although this it planned to sever their business agreement at lion, in 2008. “Balance sheets are increasingly important,” Murphy said. was already slated for some time.” the end of that month. Bulgari, the complaint “We generated almost $1 billion in free cash flow in 2008. We returned He said Bulgari would focus on managing says, entered into a new distribution agreement about $1 billion to shareholders. We have no debt and are sitting on $1.8 its cost base “even more rigorously” to make with a direct competitor. Joe’s Jewelry is seek- billion of cash.” efficiency savings, while underlining the ing at least $4 million for breach of contract, Murphy wants to negotiate lower rents with landlords of Gap Inc.’s 2,800 measures would not compromise the luxury legal fees and other unspecified damages. North American stores. In addition, stores will be closed and downsized. brand’s product and service quality. Bulgari did not respond to a request for “We have 40 million square feet [of retail space],” he said. “Getting conces- “We are slated to open around 10 stores comment. sions and reductions in rent as [leases] come up for renewal” makes sense.

Williamson and an interest in Saks. Sources said because Baugur Group to File for Bankruptcy Baugur holds only minority stakes in those retailers, the move is unlikely to have any impact on their businesses By Nina Jones restructuring plan is viable. However, following the rul- beyond a change in their shareholding structure. ing, we have no choice but to file for bankruptcy.” The once-acquisitive group’s business has shrunk LONDON — Baugur Group, the Icelandic retail inves- Baugur had originally been granted the moratorium rapidly. BG Holding ehf, a subsidiary of Baugur, was put tor that until recently owned swathes of the U.K. high process last month, after its talks with Icelandic banks into administration in the U.K. last month, and its stakes street, is to file for bankruptcy in Iceland, the company to restructure its estimated 1 billion pounds, or $1.38 in House of Fraser, jewelry group Aurum, toy store said Wednesday. Earlier in the day, a Reykjavik court billion, worth of debt broke down. The company has Hamleys and the Iceland Foods Group Ltd. are now rejected the investment firm’s request to extend its been struggling under the weight of its debts since the under the control of the Icelandic bank Landsbanki. moratorium process, which is equivalent to Chapter 11 collapse of the Icelandic banking system last year. Mosaic Fashions, in which Baugur held a 49 percent bankruptcy protection. According to industry sources, following the bankrupt- stake, went into pre-pack administration last week, “The court’s ruling today is a disappointment to ev- cy filing, the Icelandic court will likely appoint a liquida- and the majority of its brands were bought back by its eryone at Baugur,” said Kristin Johannesdottir, chair- tor to oversee the sale of Baugur’s assets. They include chief executive Derek Lovelock and the Icelandic bank man of Baugur Group. “We believe that the company minority stakes in the U.K. retailers Whistles, All Saints Kaupthing, who then formed a new company, Aurora fulfills all the conditions for the extension and that the and Jane Norman, along with minority stakes in Matthew Fashions. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009

HardAlexander McQueen: Masterful. And plenty unsettling.Times Alexander McQueen is one of fashion’s few for-real artistic geniuses. His collections manifest the wild wanderings of his imagination and emotional state into high theater in which his sartorial wizardry always equals the fantastical visions of his psyche. That the latter is given to considerable mood swings is not news. Even at his most romantic — the Sarabande collection’s exquisite elegy on inevitable decay; The Girl Who Lived in the Tree’s struggle to leave the darkness for light — McQueen’s work has a major dark side, one which he expresses either romantically, as in those two shows, or with all-out aggression. Such was the case with his remarkable fall collection built on last season’s Darwinian premise that only the strong and adaptable survive. Here McQueen developed the thought further with a mind- blowing ode to recycling and reinvention. Anyone with any appreciation at all for storytelling and showmanship, not to mention for remarkably crafted clothes, had to have been awed. “This [economic] crisis isn’t my fault,” the designer said the day before his show. “I have to be who I am. This is hard. It’s old McQueen, aggressive McQueen. In this business, you have to be aggressive and have aggressive feelings.” So out they poured — make that stormed — against the backdrop of a junk heap compiled from the set trappings of his past shows, veiled chandelier, carousel horse, random branches, along with all sorts of other refuse, including the proverbial kitchen sink. First out: a muscular reworking of the New Look and Audrey Hepburn-vintage Givenchy, in which, (aided by the Leigh Bowery lipstick), one sensed not only a celebration of the couture of yore, but also a dig at McQueen’s former employer and, perhaps, at a particular former designing colleague. Accurate or not, the motif made for a spectacular parade, an extravaganza of remarkable cut and construction in mix-and-match houndstooth. The bravado continued in high-drama coats, including a black, floral-flocked leather and intricately wrought knits, and went through to evening with a double-bubble ballgown, its black-and-red houndstooth morphing into a flock of dangerous birds, and a strapless siren gown crafted from tightly packed feathers. McQueen kept the recycling theme going throughout, working his own classics, finishing off looks with Philip Treacy’s spectacular hats — lamp shade, umbrella or deli plastic bag — and showing some elaborate fare in faux garbage-bag plastic and bubble wrap (actually treated silks). The message, wrapped up in haute homage, was about marshalling one’s mettle in the interests of survival. And it was one of power and provocation. At this dangerous time for fashion, the best collections of the season have been the ones in which designers have made bold, signature statements, most of them optimistic. McQueen dared to express those other emotions, anger and frustration, twinges of which nowadays must pinch at even fashion’s sunniest types from time to time. Whether his brilliant outpouring of ire will ultimately prove cathartic or reckless remains to be seen. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 5 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS WORKING MOM: Lolita Chammah, who’s the face of this year’s Cannes Film Festival, is gearing up to play daughter to her real-life mother, Isabelle Huppert, in Marc Fitoussi’s “Copacabana,” which starts shooting next week. Huppert plays a rock ’n’ roll, unemployed woman who doesn’t have much of a life and thus meddles in her more sensible daughter’s choice of a husband. Has that ever happened in real life? “No, absolutely not,” Chammah said at the Chloé show Wednesday. Fellow actress Marie-Josée Croze said she’s fully embracing this season’s Eighties trend, shooting two films set in that decade. “[The Eighties] are my best memories,” Croze said. “I was really into The Cure so I wore black E suits and really red lipstick with my hair in my face.” Chloé founder Gaby Aghion

said she hasn’t STEPHANE FEUGUER missed a show BY since launching the house in the Fifties. PHOTOS “I always feel the Patrick Demarchelier and same emotion,” she Anja Rubik. said. Meanwhile, it was the first ever fashion show for 21-year-old French actress Astrid Berges-Frisbey, who has just finished shooting “La Première étoile” (“The First Star”). “My mother worked as a Chanel saleswoman for 10 years so I like to think I have an eye,” she said. One of the three faces of Chloé’s fragrance, Anja Rubik, Lolita Chammah surprised everyone by turning up on the front row instead of in the show. “I gave them a choice, but they think me being here makes better p.r.,” she related. Later, a tanned Patti Hansen, who owns a Parisian pied-à-terre with husband Keith Richards, took in the Hermès show. “I’m just relaxing waiting for the next tour, hopefully next year,” said Hansen, referring to the Rolling Stones’ world tour. “We’ll start working on it soon.”

NOTHING TO SNIFF AT: Photographer Ellen von Unwerth has a busy year ahead. “I am in the process of doing a photography book with Phaidon. It will be focused on women and should be out in August,” said Unwerth at the launch of the eau de cologne Fantastic Man, named after the magazine, at Colette on Monday. In lieu of scent strips, Colette had visitors enter one collections/fall by one into a room where they were able to sniff the PARIS scent on a male model. “It’s really starting to smell in ’09 there,” warned one guest.

LAST DAYS: Kenzo’s James Greenfield, who assumed operational management of Kenzo last fall following the exit of Alberto Lavia to Façonnable, has been named chief executive officer of the Paris fashion house. Pierre-Yves Roussel, ceo of the fashion division of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and chairman of the board of Kenzo Mode, confirmed his promotion at Kenzo’s show Wednesday morning. Previously, Greenfield’s title was senior vice president. Also at the show, French actor Andy Gillet said he turned manga for his latest movie, which was just released in South Korea. “It’s a kind of thriller, a little bit strange,” Gillet said, adding his next project is an Italian movie this spring. “I am playing a French guy who only speaks a little Italian, which is lucky,” he chuckled. Actress Karine Viard said she would next hit the big screen in “Les Derniers Jours du Monde” (“The Last Days of the World”). “In it everyone thinks that life will never end. It’s a blend of humor and anguish,” she said, adding Burberry lent her outfits for the film. Next up, Viard plays a sister who, with her brother, prevents their father from falling in love with a homeless woman.

GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI “My look is an older person who still dresses like a teenager who really doesn’t take too much care about her appearance,” she said. Later, Viard attended Paul &

PHOTOS BY Joe along with a shades-wearing Emmanuelle Béart. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009

For full runs of show, see WWD.com.

Hermès Elie Saab

PARIScollections/fall ’09

Hermès Chloé

Hermès: In this economic climate, the venerable house of Hermès has managed Chloé: In her second season, Hannah MacGibbon is still finding her way at Chloé. The to fly above the proverbial weather on the wings of its leathers, scarves and collection she presented Wednesday showed progress, as MacGibbon desweetened bags, which luxury consumers — or what’s left of them — clearly consider spring’s girlishness with a sportier approach rooted in elements borrowed from the boys. investment pieces with a guaranteed return. With that in mind, Jean Paul Gaultier The result was a less coy, more worldly look with a waft of the Seventies, if not in its cuts delivered a fall collection full of bankable classics done with an aviator motif that per se, then in its casual flamboyance, as if the designer were channeling Lauren Hutton. underscored Hermès’ gravity-defying high-end power. MacGibbon worked a subtle military motif, opening with big blanket capes over The theme, which was mostly a matter of styling, was chosen wisely. Not only tricked-out pants, some of which worked. Here, she deftly lightened an officer’s did the Amelia Earhart angle allow him to flex Hermès’ strongest muscles — an jacket into a brass-buttoned shirt tucked into green pants. She then went utterly amazing array of trenches, expertly tailored trousers and jackets and loads of fur feminine with sexy shirtdresses, before settling into a boy-meets-girl dance that trims — but it gave him ample room to stay on trend. Indeed, there were more than paired gently frilled blouses with relaxed separates. Often, the results were a few tony tough girls clad in some combination of leather leggings, slouchy knits appealing. It was the moments when MacGibbon tried to get too interesting, as with and fetching bombers. Plaid scarf dresses and silk separates softened the mix, a wayward attempt at matching pants and boots, that revealed her still-novice status. but this collection was really about the finest in ultraluxe outerwear. Gorgeous coats, long and short, were cut from luscious leathers, croc, astrakhan and thick Kenzo: Antonio Marras is a designer who knows how to pump a theme for everything cashmere, all of which, like Hermès, will stand the test of time. it’s worth. This season, he set his sights on Russia, finding inspiration in romantic WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Limi Feu Kenzo

Chloé Limi Feu GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY ideas from “Doctor Zhivago,” Anna Pavlova, Orthodox religious icons, tsarinas and romper and her Chanel-ish jacket and skirt numbers came intriguingly deconstructed the Ballets Russes. It added up to some well-crafted, fantastical clothes with the and spliced. Yamamoto even created a cardigan-trench hybrid, which was paired ethnic imprint Marras has brought to Kenzo. Dresses came with peasant-flower with a Degas ballerina skirt. And though Yamamoto’s simple silk frocks seemed too prints, coats were richly embroidered and fur trim adorned the hems of jackets or elementary a concession to deliver on commercial merch, her sweaters were standouts, long, full skirts. A military theme in coats and jackets brought a tailored side, while whether the languid cardigan wraps or the finale knits tossed over tiered tutus. Marras toyed with Constructivism via geometric patchwork pieces in primary colors. The work was exquisite, and many pieces were quaintly beautiful. Elie Saab: Elie Saab has a new message for fall: A girl can’t live on cocktail attire alone. While the designer delivered his parade of red-carpet-ready eveningwear Limi Feu: Limi Yamamoto may have started off with some faint Spanish references — — slinky velvet gowns and those Grecian dresses — what stood out in the show tiny bolero vests thrown over white shirts and baggy jodhpurs — but by show’s end, her was his new emphasis on daywear. And there was plenty of it, all pulled-together, wanderlust was obvious. Add Yamamoto to the list of designers who’ve set their sights polished and pretty. He opened with a series of chic sheaths, accented simply with on le chic Parisien — she’s traded in spring’s punky schoolgirl for a far more polished topstitching details or punched up in graphic black-and-white patterns. A stained and sophisticated mademoiselle. Which isn’t to say that her collection lacked her glass-like mosaic print, meanwhile, added arty intrigue to a winter puffer, while trademark spunk and spirit, just that she’s giving the ladified vibe her own girlish avant- beastly fur sleeves gave a silk blouse a power-babe boost. It was a play on Parisian garde spin. Thus, her boxy wool coat turned out to be, upon close inspection, cut like a posh, even with a few hints of Lanvin. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 WWD.COM more from the shows...

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac: Jean- with gold embroidery down the side Collette Talbot Commuun Charles de Castelbajac rolled and a sexy scarf top decorated with Dinnigan Runhof out one witty idea after another: tassels. portrait dresses featuring a fringe- haired Andy Warhol or Michael Marithé + François Girbaud: Known Jackson (circa the Jackson Five for mixing technical details into era); delightful Muppet-print their clothes, Marithé and François smokings; Kermit the Frog intarsia Girbaud were true to form in a sweaters, and the political pièce largely black collection that used de résistance: the dollar-bill dress multiple drawstrings on trousers, with Barack Obama’s mug in lieu of dresses and jackets to create a George Washington’s. sporty, youthful line.

Collette Dinnigan: Collette Jeremy Scott: A famous Disney rodent Dinnigan’s signature lacy cocktail inspired one story line in Jeremy frocks and more casual shirtdresses Scott’s characteristically irreverent were nice, but she should rethink collection, seen in a white coat the unfortunate styling and crafted from Mickey Mouse gloves funereal black gowns. and a poufy printed bustier dress.

Talbot Runhof: Johnny Talbot and Bless: Set in an abandoned Adrian Runhof’s Thirties-inspired, mansion in Paris’ Marais district, dress-centric lineup had some hits design duo Desiree Heiss and Ines and misses — a strong-shouldered Kaag’s conceptual, cacophonous georgette frock in a striking print, presentation involved dozens and a slinky, high-slit black sequin of drummers outfitted in the gown were on the hit list, but brand’s signature oversize those kitschy sequin numbers silhouettes, with such embroidered with fake stones highlights as sequined didn’t make the grade. T-shirt dresses with landscape photo Commuun: Staying true to their prints, mannish minimalist aesthetic, Kaito Hori and sheepskin jackets Iku Furudate showed architectural Jean-Charles collections/fall and fleecy separates frocks enveloped in soft clouds PARIS accessorized with de Castelbajac of chiffon, dyed, in one instance, ’09 chunky knitted a shade of shocking pink, while Vanessa agnès b. Martin Boudicca sleeves or legs. new plays on texture and volume Bruno Grant included a shaggy gray mohair Tsumori Chisato: Tsumori Chisato’s cocoon dress and a sculptural “Little Prince”-themed fantasy- A-line skirt worked in the recurrent space circus ride proved a delightful embossed, croclike fabric. forum for the designer’s prints and embroideries, as in a lovely white Vanessa Bruno: Vanessa Bruno chiffon gown with a black glitter exchanged her familiar sweet moon and Pierrot collar, plus cosmic lightness for a harder, urban-warrior dresses and capes that form the vibe, seen in wool coats edged with shapes of stars and crescent moons pelts, boyish ribbed knits with gold- when folded flat. fringe epaulets and a run of dark frocks with mixed-media bodices, Bernhard Willhelm: Focusing on often layered over skinny black a longer silhouette, Bernhard leather pants. Willhelm delighted his fan club of young, trendy urbanites with agnès b.: From androgynous a lineup of joyful patchwork tailored pieces to shifts and pleated frocks inspired by everything from skirts sporting leopard spots, all the mountain climbers to prairie girls to staples of casual French chic and American football players. then some got ample screen time in Agnès Troublé’s fall collection, A.F. Vandevorst: Cleaning up their shown as a short (but not short act, design duo An Vandevorst and enough) film. Filip Arickx delivered equestrian- inspired silhouettes — right down Martin Grant: Subtle but strong to the horse hoof-esque booties — architectural looks, such as a black Zucca Marithé + Jeremy that included gray wool jodhpurs coat that was structured at the hip, François Scott and loose wraps resembling saddle added a new note to Martin Grant’s Girbaud blankets in beige flannel, green impeccable offerings, which also loden and two-fur combos for a included such classics as the striped effect. perfect putty-hued trench and kimono-sleeve coat. Lutz: Lutz spun a glitzy twist on his usual deconstructed streetwear, Boudicca: Despite its epic theme as seen in a parka dusted with — warrior queens through the sequins, metallic asymmetric ages — Boudicca’s Brian Kirkby leather jackets and twisted suits in and Zowie Broach’s compact striped tweeds. collection offered plenty for those not boasting royal lineage, from Jasmine di Milo: Showing in a suite at romantic cotton blouses with the Ritz hotel, Jasmine di Milo offered Elizabethan ruff details at the a sexy lineup of slinky evening shoulders or swashbuckling mutton dresses cut on the bias and decorated sleeves, to a line of charming, with sequins, frothed up with tulle long-sleeve dresses with delicate or streamlined with lace cutouts that pleated details, one with a ghostly looked destined for “It” girls who digital print of roses pressed want to look both rich and cool. DOMINIQUE MAITRE against glass. Veronique Branquinho Haider Ackermann Bruno Pieters: Like his show’s Zucca: At Zucca, Akira Onozuka searing white-noise soundtrack, spun the right dose of charm into Bruno Pieters’ knack for razor-sharp his aviator-inspired, outerwear-focused lineup, using whirls of Veronique Branquinho: Veronique Branquinho’s merch-friendly architectural tailoring reached almost uncomfortable extremes, khaki netting and piping as embellishment to sculpt volume on lineup focused on signature basics — mannish pants, as with his focus on a square-cut cape coat and strict mini feminine dresses, or working oversize bomber jackets in faux- whimsical knits — and also included Thirties-style silk frocks combos that appeared hard to breathe in. crocodile vinyl. with glittery panels, a new version of her pleated skirt in contrasting fabrics and some cool fur-trimmed outerwear. Cher Michel Klein: Despite the presentation’s obscure pink Barbara Bui: Barbara Bui worked a hardcore rock ’n’ roll vibe for lighting, rich textures and pretty decorative details livened up fall — a little Jim Morrison, a lot of Los Angeles’ trash-glam — Haider Ackermann: With long sinuous dresses cut on the bias, Michel Klein’s black-centric collection — presented on a row of GOIZE AND GIANNONI, FRANCOIS GIOVANNI with everything from metallic python pants and leather jackets suede jackets with zippers and high-waisted trousers, Haider mannequins — from glistening tulle-covered crystal appliqués that had zippered breakaway hems to studded cowboy boots Ackermann’s collection was serene and confident, judiciously on black T-shirts and jersey frocks to a slim dark purple jacket

and bags galore. peppered with the right amount of flash, including trousers in embroidered taffeta. PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 9 WWD.COM The Beat Burnin’ Up for Fall: Jonas Brothers Apparel By Julee Kaplan fi rst hit the scene a few years ago by selling out concert venues, making movies, CDs, TV shows and writing a book, some have speculated the trio’s popular- LOYAL FANS OF WILDLY POPULAR MUSICAL POP ity could be headed south. “Jonas Brothers: The 3D Concert Experience,” trio the Jonas Brothers can already listen to their three released last month, raked in only $12.7 million in its fi rst weekend at top-selling albums; read their recently released book, the box offi ce. The entertainment industry has called it a major disap- “Burning Up,” and even see them in 3-D at the movie the- pointment as it was expected to bring in as much as $40 million on ater in “Jonas Brothers: The 3D Concert Experience.” Now, opening weekend following the brothers’ recent sold-out tour. The coming this fall, tween girl fans can also dress the lifestyle. soundtrack sold under 50,000 copies and, to make matters worse, Thanks to Disney Consumer Products, the Jonas Brothers the fi lm ranks as one of the worst movies of all time in Internet franchise (based on Kevin, 21, Joe, 19, and Nick, 16) will soon Movie Database’s ongoing readers’ poll. include a full sportswear line for tweens, hitting mass But parents of the band’s tween fans love the boys’ squeaky clean retailers such as Wal-Mart, Kmart, Sears and J.C. image, which could compel them to spend money on the new apparel line Penney in time for back-to-school shopping. for b-t-s. And while their latest fi lm may have been a disappointment, they “We see this line as high opportunity for back-to- remain massively popular. Late last year, the Jonas Brothers became the fi rst school,” said Pamela Lifford, executive vice presi- musical act in history to occupy three spots in the Billboard Top 10 album dent, Global Fashion & Home, Disney Consumer chart in a single week. Also, after the successful Disney fi lm “Camp Rock,” a Products. “Also, as an added element, within sequel is said to be in development. In it, the Jonas Brothers are expected to each of the retailers we are offering up dif- return as the band Connect Three, and their youngest brother, eight-year-old ferentiation, so that each store has exclu- sive product on their fl oors.” The apparel collection, called Jonas, will follow the launch of the Disney Channel’s highly antici- pated “Jonas” TV show, which is set to begin airing in May. On “Jonas,” the boys play the fi ctional New Jersey-based Kevin, Joe and Nick Lucas — a trio of teenage brothers who make up the world’s most popular rock band, Jonas (which happens to be the name of the street they live on in the show). On the show, the Lucas brothers do their best to live regular lives, but always seem to fi nd themselves in the

MONEY EARNED BY THE JONAS BROTHERS IN 2008, MAKING THEM THE NINTH TOP EARNERS IN THE $ MUSIC BUSINESS LAST YEAR.

SOURCE: BILLBOARD MAGAZINE 62 million middle of some absurd situations. The comedy is set at the Lucas home, and at their private school, Horace Mantis Academy (a play on the well-known Riverdale, N.Y.- based private Horace Mann School). Another major character on the show is the Lucas’ stylist-in-training, childhood friend Stella Malone, who not only keeps the brothers grounded, but also helps them out on the fashion front. The Jonas tween apparel collection is inspired by the preppy clothing seen on the show, and nearly all of it is not char- Kevin, Joe and Nick Jonas of the Jonas Brothers on IMAGES ASTRID STAWIARZ/GETTY BY acter driven — there are argyle sweater vests Feb. 28 at a movie premiere in West Nyack, N.Y. with the Horace Mantis Academy logo on the PHOTO front; woven tops; T-shirts; polo shirts with ruffl e

accents on the neck and sleeves; plaid belted shorts; ▲ Looks from Jonas, hitting Frankie, is also slated to make an appearance. leggings; denim skirts, and jeans. The collection will stores for back-to-school. Filming is expected to begin this summer. retail from $9.99 to $24.99. The more than 200 Disney The $40 billion Disney also has plenty of ex- Stores around the country will carry a separate collec- perience developing and marketing tween-friendly merchan- tion of Jonas Brothers T-shirts, which will have graph- dise. It all started with “Lizzy Maguire,” which aired from 2001 ics of the three brothers on them. to 2004 and catapulted Hilary Duff to stardom. That show “A Jonas Brothers clothing line is a really great was followed in 2003 by “That’s So Raven” (starring Raven- idea,” said Jane Buckingham, president of the Symoné), “Kim Possible” and “Hannah Montana,” which Intelligence Group, a market research fi rm with offi ces continues to dominate the consumer products arena and in Los Angeles and New York. “These days it’s all about has made Miley Cyrus a star. lifestyle and celebrity — girls especially want to see the Merchandise from “Hannah Montana” and “High stars they love in all different aspects, and I certainly School Musical,” another highly popular Disney fran- think they will buy into a clothing line from them.” chise, raked in $2.7 billion in retail sales for 2008. Buckingham said that in a similar way adults enjoy read- Disney anticipates the Jonas enterprise will be ing about celebrities in US Weekly or People, kids want to equally, if not more, profi table for them. connect with their favorite stars by wearing their jeans. “The difference we have with the Jonas “Tweens are the right market for them,” she said of the Brothers is that we have three young men,” Jonas collection. “Even though they typically go for more Lifford said. “And when you look at their of that girl-to-girl connection, I am sure the company will be smart customer following, we have the whole heart- about how they market the brand, and I would think that the line throb play, which is a great thing for us to work wouldn’t be too masculine.” with when we are talking about tween girls.” Lifford admitted the brothers aren’t involved with the design of And could a tween boys or young men’s line the product since the clothing is based on the characters they play on the be not too far behind? At least for now, Lifford said, show, not on their real day-to-day lives. Because they are on tour, none it’s girl’s only, but Buckingham believes there’s plenty of of the Jonas Brothers was available for comment. Lifford said Disney is room for Jonas Brothers merchandise. planning major in-store promotions for the launch season and will work to “The Jonas Brothers are a lifestyle, not just a boy band,” she support each of the retailers’ needs. said. “Their movie lets you into their world, and the clothing line is just While the Jonas Brothers have generated millions of dollars since they another way to do that; it’s a way to get closer to them and their world.” 10 WWD, thursday, march 12, 2009

Men’s Beige Watch Last year’s subtle nude color has developed into a fully fleshed-out, multitonal beige palette for fall ’09. Look for men’s wear staples like camel coats and tan trenches to take the spotlight, along with modern cropped toggle coats, belted cardigans and velvet blazers, all in similar shades. — Alex Badia

For more looks, see WWD.com.

BADIA ALEX CLINIQUE; BY FOR STYLED BERNABE ANNA CAMPUZANO; BY LUIS MAKEUP AND ASSISTANT: HAIR FASHION O./WILHELMINA; RALSTON; TREVOR Band of Outsiders’ SABRINA

camel hair jacket, AND

Thom Browne’s MODEL: cotton shirt and

Michael Kors’ MICHENER cotton and IANNACCONE;

spandex pants. KEELEY Thom Browne

Bottega Veneta’s cashmere and tie and shoes; THOMAS INTERNS: velvet blazer, cashmere turtleneck Louis Vuitton BY and cotton pants. gloves. PHOTOS FASHION WWD, thursday, march 12, 2009 11 WWD.COM Men’s

Louis Vuitton’s Patrik Ervell’s cashmere jacket and cotton jacket, mohair pants. Louis Burberry Prorsum’s Vuitton gloves; Oliver cotton shirt and Peoples glasses. Ermenegildo Zegna’s cotton pants. Burberry Prorsum tie; Church belt; Dunhill gloves.

Polo by Ralph Lauren’s cashmere cardigan, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s cotton shirt and Brunello Cucinelli’s cotton pants. Church belt; Christopher Fischer gloves; Bottega Veneta shoes. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009

Men’s A look from the Men’s Wearhouse Makes Promotion Permanent collection. By Jean E. Palmieri cent at Men’s Wearhouse, 10.7 percent at K&G and, based on constant Canadian dollars, 10.5 percent at Moores. Men’s Wearhouse said it will extend indefi- Zimmer said his base compensation will be trimmed by 20 nitely a buy-one-get-one free suit promotion, and the re- percent, the board of directors’ compensation will drop by 10 tailer reported an almost 90 percent drop in fourth-quar- percent and other senior executives will take a 5 percent cut. ter net income. In fiscal 2007, Zimmer was paid $420,000 in salary and total In addition, senior executives will take annual pay cuts to- compensation of $1.67 million. taling $35 million to help lower costs during A bright spot continues to be the compa- the recession. George ny’s tuxedo rental business, which posted a Fourth-quarter net income dropped 89.9 per- Zimmer net sales increase of 3 percent in the fourth cent to $1.5 million, or 3 cents a diluted share, quarter. Tuxedo rentals account for 7.5 per- from $14.8 million, or 29 cents, a year ago, on an cent of net sales. 11 percent decline in sales to $476.4 million. Clothing sales, which accounted for 85.4 Along with “lowering costs, we’ve re- percent of net sales in the quarter, fell 12.8 defined our value proposition at Men’s percent. However, the declines were less Wearhouse and Moores stores to mean deep than expected because of “increased cus- discount, sometimes even buy-one-get-one- tomer traffic from our elevated promotional hman free,” chief executive officer George Zimmer posture in January,” said Neill Davis, chief Asc tian said Wednesday. “This change was made fol- financial officer. s lowing evidence that store traffic and suit unit The company also has aspirations for its sales rose dramatically when this promotion K&G superstore division. “Because the dis- Chri was advertised. count value sector should do better in tough

“We believe that this strategy is neces- times, we’re hopeful K&G has turned the cor- PhotoS BY sary in the current economic environment, ner,” Zimmer said. He pointed to a growing and still allows us to offer our customers women’s business, a new branding campaign extraordinary value while maintaining ad- and a store-refurbishment program as other equate margins,” he said. positive developments for this division. Barnabé Hardy’s The company instituted the buy-one-get-one-free (BOGO) For the year, profits at Men’s Wearhouse fell 59.9 percent to strategy during the holiday season to bolster sales. Zimmer said $58.8 million, or $1.13 a share, from $147 million, or $2.73 a share, that model “is being reconstituted so that it can run indefinitely. a year ago. Sales in the 12 months slid 6.6 percent to $1.97 billion We’re making 30-second commercials, which have a nice story from $2.11 billion in the prior period. Excluding one-time items New Leather Line with the BOGO message being just a part of the overall message. such as a $1.2 million impairment charge and a $5.8 million gain By Emilie Marsh So we’re actually planning on running this on a regular basis.” from the sale of a distribution center, the retailer recorded a loss He said the company routinely undercuts department of 6 cents a share in the fourth quarter ended Jan. 31. There are certain staples every stores’ regular prices on suits by $100, “and then we throw in Davis said the company expects comp-store sales to be guy should have in his wardrobe, and the another suit for free.” down in the range of 6 to 10 percent in the first half, while leather jacket is one of them — at least In the quarter, comparable-store sales declined 9.7 per- tuxedo rental sales are anticipated to rise 7 to 9 percent. that’s the mantra of men’s wear designer Barnabé Hardy, who unveils his debut col- lection of sleekly sculpted leather jackets this week in Paris. Ferragamo USA Aims to Build Momentum for Men’s “The handbag is to a woman what the leather jacket is to a man,” said Hardy from By Jean Scheidnes Turkish walnut paneling, taupe leather and his Paris-based studio. “It’s an outerwear white limestone — in proportions that create companion for the urban man, combining The men’s business has been a bright a warm, woodsy effect. Leather furniture and a chic silhouette with a host of intelligent spot for Salvatore Ferragamo’s U.S. division, secluded fitting rooms are designed to invite details to assist in everyday life.” which just unveiled a new men’s space at its men to take their time. After cutting his teeth at Balenciaga and Fifth Avenue flagship and is mulling open- Just outside the room, there is an launching the label’s men’s wear alongside ing more men’s stores. area dedicated to Tramezza, which is creative director Nicolas Ghesquière in Men’s represents 44 percent of Ferragamo’s Ferragamo’s most high-end, handmade shoe 2002, Hardy, 33, was ready to fly solo despite American business. line, as well as expanded displays for men’s the economic turbulence. “We’re known for leather shoes and hand- luggage, belts and small leather goods. “In today’s economic climate, less is bet- bags,” said Vincent Ottomanelli, president “The experience we provide needs to be ter,” he said. “Brands have overdiversified of Ferragamo USA. “On the men’s side, we the best, and that’s not easy to do in a single their offers. Clients are looking for special- don’t have a big category like handbags, so store because men shop differently from ized savoir-faire. This is a positive for young 44 percent is really strong.” women,” said Ottomanelli. That is why, he designers focusing on just one element of The men’s category has grown 20 percent said, Ferragamo is keeping a close eye on the wardrobe. We have to take advantage of in the past five years and even this year, its its only dedicated men’s store in the U.S., the moment and become the new classics.” growth rate is 5 percent. at the Beverly Center in Los Angeles, and Nearly a decade earlier, Hardy launched “That’s very good for 2009,” noted gearing up to roll out more single-gender his Les Minets par Barnabé collection of Ottomanelli. “In this difficult period, I like stores next year. sweatshirts with glitter galore, which were to think we’re making necessary adjust- “Single-gender is more intimate, and more a hit at Paris retailer Maria Luisa. Using his ments to perform, but sometimes the best A fall comfortable for men or women. We’re seeing own savings and added income from freelance defense is a good offense. Our men’s busi- look from that in the Beverly Center; it’s really winning work to finance his latest project, Hardy’s new ness is doing well, so we’re investing in it.” Salvatore for us. That store is meeting its plan, which is collection has matured with the designer. The renovated space at the Manhattan Ferragamo. saying a lot in this environment,” he said. The jackets come flagship used to be a gallery dedicated to art In addition, Ferragamo in December in nine different styles exhibitions and special events. renovated its store at Bal Harbour Shops, in black, chocolate and Barnabé The 900-square-foot, second-floor area now showcases men’s and in January revamped Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center. The dark khaki, ranging Hardy wear designed by Massimiliano Giornetti — primarily suits and company opened a unit at the Waterside Shops in Naples, from cropped bomber tailored outerwear, plus neckwear and leather goods. The inte- Fla., in February, and has a new shop in the pipeline at The and motorcycle jack- rior incorporates the same materials as the rest of the store — Bravern in Bellevue, Wash. ets to lengthier par- kas — all in baby calf, OBITUARY dipped lambskin or shearling. Details run the gamut from origa- Charles ‘Mask’ Lewis, Tapout Co-founder mi-like folds, double cuffs and matelasse By Khanh T.L. Tran vehicular manslaughter while intoxicated. The unidentified backs to hoodies, studs female passenger was arrested for public intoxication and and leather-covered LOS ANGELES — Charles “Mask” Lewis, co-founder of the later released from custody. cording. Hardy put the mixed martial arts clothing company Tapout, died in a car Lt. Craig Fox of the Newport Beach Police Dept. said offi- focus on functionality crash early Wednesday morning. cials don’t know if Kirby and Lewis knew each other or what with specially adapted According to the Newport Beach Police Dept., Lewis was they did prior to the fatal accident. pockets for keys, wal- driving a red Ferrari that spun out of control along with a Though Lewis’ age wasn’t determined — a company lets and iPhones. white Porsche on a quiet stretch of the beachside community spokesman said he was in his 30s — the entrepreneur has Retail prices are around 1 a.m. Lewis’ car struck a curb and then a light pole. spent the last 16 years mastering jiujitsu while building a expected to range be- He was pronounced dead at the scene. violent yet popular sport that spawned a reality TV series, tween 900 and 2,000 A female occupant who was ejected from the Ferrari clothing for men, women and children, a shoe line produced euros, or $1,125 to was later transported to a hospital, where she is current- under license by Skechers and a mass of fans, including sing- $2,500 at current exchange, Hardy said. ly in stable condition. Police didn’t confirm the woman’s er Mandy Moore. Tapout, based in Grand Terrace, Calif., is “I really wanted to think about the cus- identity. estimated to have annual sales of $100 million. tomer,” he added. “The target is not the Officials said the driver of the Porsche was Jeffrey Kirby, According to Tapout’s Web site, Lewis represented “the fashion victim but the regular guy who goes a 51-year-old resident of Costa Mesa, Calif. After fleeing the militant face” for the Tapout brand and lifestyle. from business meeting to dinner parties or scene, Kirby and a female passenger in the Porsche were Tapout said it is in the process of setting up a memorial from interviews to openings. One who wants found a short distance away. Kirby was arrested for gross service for Lewis. good quality for good value.” WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 13 WWD.COM Men’s Vilebrequin Ramps Up for Growth IN BRIEFS • ISAIA LINKS WITH JEFFREY: only the mash-up masters at h&m boast By Brenner Thomas plans to open eight Vilebrequin shop-in-shops more collaborations than retailer/fashion impresario Jeffrey starting in march — and is moving into new re- Kalinksy. his latest conquest: italian luxe brand isaia, whose While the recession is prompting cau- gions. since november 2008, the company has tailored clothing served as the basis for a limited collection of tion among luxury goods companies, Vilebrequin inked deals for master licenses in Brazil, central attenuated suits and furnishings. aimed at introducing isaia to is moving ahead with plans to transform its popu- america and the caribbean, the middle east, the fashion customer, the special edition wool suits, cotton shirts lar swimsuit line into a global lifestyle brand. russia and malaysia. and silk ties hit Jeffrey stores this week. suits start at $2,995 and in the past four months, the geneva-based acces- the company also expanded its swimsuit offering shirts are $495. the association is for one season but may be sories company inked five master licenses to distrib- with trimmer silhouettes, a longer boardshort and extended, according to isaia. ute to new regions, formed partnerships to bring the new fabrications in a bid to appeal to a broader de- Vilebrequin name to the classification business and mographic. it even added an opening price, vintage • GANT GROWING: it’s not quite on the scale of the new giorgio armani made good on its promise to launch sportswear. model that retails for $150. “Vilebrequin’s style can or Diesel megastores, but gant is expanding on Fifth avenue as well. the last occurred in the brand’s new, paint- appeal to many different kinds of men,” prissert said. the preppie sportswear maker has just leased another 2,450 square still-wet showroom in manhattan earlier this Vilebrequin is also looking to shore up partners feet behind its existing trilevel flagship at 645 Fifth avenue in new week, where thierry prissert, chief executive in the classification business. the company has York, taking over a space previously occupied by a Japanese hair officer of Vilebrequin’s north american opera- its eye on the footwear and sunglass markets and salon. architect annabelle selldorf will break down some walls tions, showed off the company’s first fully realized recently signed a deal with italian manufacturer and incorporate the additional selling space into the second floor sportswear collection. confezioni madamar srl to produce underwear. of the gant store. the newly renovated space should be ready for “our strategy has always been to grow little by the project, headed by the former owner of la shoppers come november. the sweden-based brand is also looking little,” he said of Vilebrequin, which was acquired perla, Daniele Borgomanero, will launch at pitti for retail opportunities downtown, primarily in the soho area, by the Dutch private equity fund Fashion Fund uomo this summer. according to ari hoffman, chief executive officer of gant usa. one in December 2007. “now we think it’s time to expand our product offering.” the sportswear collection takes its cues from classic re- sortwear and includes pique polos, a light boating jacket, linen shorts, loosely woven shirts and washed scarves — all in saint- tropez-friendly white and navy blue. aside from a wintertime knit cap and scarf, the sportswear collection never strays too far from the pool. “You’re not going to see us doing heavy sweaters and jackets,” prissert explained. “We are still in the sun business.” the expansion has prompted the company to move its deliv- ery schedule to a traditional fashion model. instead of one collection with two deliveries — one in november, the second in march — Vilebrequin will now have three separate collections — fall, cruise and spring — with related deliveries. the company expects its sportswear collection to account for 35 percent of global sales by the end of 2010. While prissert admits plans for the line were conceived before the recession, he said sustained growth in 2008 encouraged execu- tives to move forward. “We real- ize it’s not the best time, but we’re confident about the product and our plans,” prissert said. “We’re not in it for the short-term.” the privately held company does not release sales figures but said its global revenues jumped 14 per- cent in 2008; sales in the u.s. alone rose 16 percent. the brand is also gaining floor space at retail — Bloomingdale’s

A look from Vilebrequin’s sportswear line. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 WWD.COM Los Angeles Market Preview

NEW LINES and exotic shells; $12 to $300. The following lines are new at the California On White, Ute & Jim’s Accessories, A-1089. Resort- Market Center. Price ranges are wholesale. inspired dresses, skirts and tops in jersey, cotton blends and linens; $16 to $26. CONTEMPORARY Revolution, Engel’s Showroom B-1069. Rock ’n’ roll-style Dream Culture, Showroom Five 21, B-521. Jackets, PVC totes with stud and grommet details; $28 to $55. dresses, tanks and pants that mix structure with Sugar Mafia, Engel’s Showroom, B-1069. Oversize femininity; $30 to $80. Lucite and metal bracelets, rings and necklaces with Emma & Sam, Wells Apparel Group, B-1085. Muted skulls, bows and other on-trend motifs; $10 to $75. knit tops in solids and tie-dyes, and trend-focused Susan Mango, Lea Goldman, A-1012. Hand-painted denim in a range of washes; $24 to $90. Balinese leather sandals, including flats and wedges Holy G., Rep Et Trois, A-294. Young contemporary embellished with sequins and satin thongs with sportswear in brushed linens and mixed cottons; $20 semiprecious stones; $12 to $40. to $49. INTIMATES Pure & Simple, L on 5, C-555. Yoga-inspired tops, Bamboo, Addiction A-403. Boxer-briefs for men and tanks and pants in a cotton-Modal blend; $10 to $30. lace-detailed underwear and camisoles for women Buyers mingle Toku Juniors, 929 Showroom, C-42. Graphic-driven made from a blend of bamboo and spandex; $4 to $6. at the CMC. long- and short-sleeve T-shirts and tank tops in muted Valentina, Wells Apparel Group, B-1085. Imported colors with embossed graphic prints; $21 to $27. Italian hosiery and footwear with a European edge; MATERNITY $12.50 to $19. BiraBiro, Thea Showroom, B-698. Handwoven and MISSES’ embroidered organic cotton dresses from Ethiopia in AMB Designs, Carol & Erin Herzog, A-278. Nylon-and bright solids and patterns; $40 to $80. spandex T-shirts, leggings and camisoles in tie-dye, Tummy T’s, Thea Showroom, B-698. Cartoon novelty animal prints, paisleys and solids; $7 to $12. Indie Spirit maternity T-shirts, tank tops and thermals; $19 to $24. Mithra, Fern Liberson & Co., A-317. Rayon knit LA Made Maternity, West Coast Maternity, A-642. T-shirts, tanks and dresses with nature-inspired By Khanh T.L. Tran Cotton-blend garment-dyed separates in jewel-tones patterns; $20 to $64. inspired by the original LA Made line; $12 to $46. Ivy Reed, Fern Liberson & Co., A-317.Balinese printed IN THE MIDST OF A RECESSION, FLEDGLING CLOTHING LABELS ACCESSORIES tops, jackets, skirts, pants and scarves; $40 to $57. are persevering to drum up business with West Coast retailers at the Diamond Veneer, Zirconmania, A-1090. Sterling silver Inca Cotton, Fern Liberson & Co., A-317. Pre-shrunk contemporary fashion market starting March 20. and platinum-plated rings, earrings, pendants and cotton blouses, shirts and bustiers with details hand- For example, two brands, Soh and Chulette, will make the trek bracelets with cubic zirconia; $15 to $150. embroidered in Peru; $25.50 to $42.50. to Los Angeles from New York for their debut at Focus, a spe- Giacini Atelier, Marty Buss Showroom, A-1025. Kai Moon, Melody Fast Sales, A-313. Hand- cial section to be held in the California Market Center’s pent- Neutral-colored canvas totes with black vintage dyed cotton Ts, tanks and dresses with For house March 21 to 23. graphics in large and small sizes. $21-$30. gauze overlays; $32 to $56. more, “It is a tough market right now,” said Song Oh, who mas- Handbag Milan, Engel’s Showroom, B-1069. PVC bags M by M Kalan, Salt & Pepper Sales tered technical aspects of knitwear at Inc. and Anne Klein with lace overlay and ruffle details; $18 to $30. B-329. Printed and solid jersey tops, including before launching a knitwear label called Soh at Designers Marley B. Parker, Engel’s Showroom, B-1069. skirts and dresses; $26 to $46. the market & Agents’ New York expo in February. Though indepen- Necklaces, bangles, rings, and cuffs with crystal- Euphrosyne, Salt & Pepper Sales calendar, see dent retailers, ranging from Patina in Nantucket, Mass., embossed details; $8 to $40. B-329. Coats, jackets and knit tops WWD.com. to La Ree Boutique in Bellevue, Wash., have added his Meridian Jewelry & Design, Marty Buss Showroom, with Swarovski crystals and quilted line, it is important to test a variety of trade shows before A-1025. Sterling silver bracelets, necklaces, earrings details; $150 to $300. finding one that best suits a brand, he said. and rings decorated with semiprecious stones, pearls — S.L. Oh priced his line, which features men’s and women’s styles, from $65 for bamboo-and-cashmere pullovers to $300 for hand-knit cashmere-and-wool cable cardigans. One women’s cardigan features extra panels in the front, while turtlenecks inte- grate French seams trailing down the sleeves and sides. “It’s important to diversify your options,” Oh said, noting Focus will help him get exposure and start a relationship with the Los Angeles market. Lee Phutrakul, Chulette’s Thai-born designer, who will show spring and fall collections from the year-old line, agreed with Oh’s logic. Having learned from past stints at Libertine and Catherine Malandrino, Phutrakul enhances her flirty style with colorblocking on Bermuda shorts, flowing silks and neutral colors with pops of yellow and turquoise. Wholesaling from $70 to $180, nationally dis- tributed Chulette is sold at Thistle & Clover in Brooklyn, Habit in Chicago and Seaplane in Portland, Ore. “It’s a good opportunity to be out there and meet some of the buy- ers,” Phutrakul said. Chelsea Matthews, CMC’s senior trade show manager, said most lines exhibiting at Focus target boutique buyers because they may not have the ability to satisfy department stores’ requirements. There also is hope of attracting a marquee major like Nordstrom, which placed orders with vendors at Focus in January. Considering that Transit and independent expos such as Designers & Agents and Brighte also vie for retailers’ attention dur- ing the five-day market, Matthews said the decision to curate Focus and limit the number of exhibitors to 50 lets the CMC as well as the exhibitors reach a specific customer. “It gives a clear message to the buyer,” she said. Other fashion labels are coping with the difficult economy by lowering prices: Be Seduce, a 15-year-old Australian contemporary label launched in the U.S. last year, reduced wholesale prices by as much as 20 percent to between $68 and $200. “Buyers are looking for great quality at a really affordable price,” said Veronica Welch, Be Seduce’s international director of sales and marketing. “A lot of the boutiques we’re talking to that previously could sell things for $300, $400 and $500 are telling us their custom- ers don’t want to spend more than $200.” Fall collections that Be Seduce will present in its CMC showroom include silk tops in a mellow palette of plum, charcoal and off-white. Also key is a dress in an animal print evoking a hybrid of snakeskin and cheetah spots with studs adorning the neckline, arms and bottom hem. Other market debuts include a new denim line from Riser Goodwyn, the label designed by Rosetta Getty. Soyun Shin, a former owner of Los Angeles-based contemporary label Marlova, will show her fall collection, including flip coat cardigans and tuxedo vests, at Em Productions Showroom in the Cooper Design Space. The details arise in the craftsmanship, as seen in signature antique brass and nickel buttons and seams that make the garments reversible. With wholesale prices of $86 for tanks to $215 for heavyweight cardigans, Shin projects $800,000 to $1 million in first-year sales through retailers like American Rag Japan, Debbie Klein in New York and Kick Pleat in Austin, Tex. “The idea was to avoid too much trend-centered stuff and make beautiful, wearable clothes that will last beyond just this season,” Shin said. — With contributions from Sara Lerner WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 15 WWD.COM

For Elizabeth Kiester, the decision herself and employs six local seamstresses to to abandon her posh New York life for the dusty produce her $50 cotton djellaba-style dresses in streets of Southeast Asia began with that classic bright colors and prints, racer-back camisoles, dilemma — nothing to wear. In April 2008, the and other artisans to make leather flip-flops and 43-year-old Kiester found herself in Siem Reap, chunky jewelry. Children from a nearby orphan- Wander Woman Cambodia, on the eve of the Khmer New Year. age create her $1 “Wanderlust”-embroidered Because she was on a volunteer trip, she had bracelets and hand-painted postcards (and re- only jeans and T-shirts in her suitcase — noth- ceive all proceeds), and several other nonprofits ing that would cut it for the party to which she’d provide her with T-shirts, beaded necklaces and been invited. “I couldn’t find anything [on the recycled-newspaper shopping bags. Out of every- streets],” recalls Kiester, then the global cre- thing, though, Kiester admits, “the majority of my ative director at LeSportsac. “But in the same business is on dresses, because you throw it on, breath, looking around and seeing that there you put on a pair of flip-flops and you’re done.” were a lot of girls that looked just like me, both Kiester has also connected with local aid Westerners and the women working for NGOs organizations like the Coalition for Financial [nongovernmental organizations] or in the hos- Independence, an NGO that works with com- pitality sector, I thought, ‘Where the hell do munities to build sustainable, globally relevant they buy anything?’” The idea for Wanderlust, businesses. In doing so, Kiester has become an Kiester’s five-month-old boutique in Siem Reap, important piece of a larger puzzle — how to get was born. Khmer products like handicrafts to “the people “I thought, I could be the first to do this with a deeper pocket,” according to Pierre H. here,” says Kiester, who spent last summer ren- Mainguy, CFI’s executive director. “Elizabeth ovating the 1929 French Colonial building that was fortunate to travel the world, experience is now home to Wanderlust, and one flight up, to different things and tastes and truly fathom the Kiester herself. While opening a shop right out- Western markets because she was working for side a major tourist attraction (UNESCO World corporations,” explains Mainguy. “She can bring Heritage site Angkor Wat is in Siem Reap) might tremendous value added and help different seem a bizarre move for a dyed-in-the-wool communities [here] better communicate their fashion person, Kiester says it was precisely products to Westerners.” her time in the industry that sped her decision. So far, Kiester, who is completely self-fi- After 10 years as a fashion editor at glossies in- nanced, has managed to keep her expenses low cluding Mademoiselle, Marie Claire, Jane and and the sourcing and production of her prod- YM (as the fashion director) — Kiester went cor- ucts entirely local. Moving forward, she hopes porate in 2004, first as the global concept direc- her global fashion savvy and the store’s phil- tor at Abercrombie & Fitch Co. and then as the anthropic bent will translate into success with chief creative at LeSportsac, where she intro- her tricky customer base — a mix of ex-pats, duced the ongoing Artist-in-Residence line and backpackers, adventure-seekers and locals — the successful Stella McCartney for LeSportsac and allow her to weather the bad economy, and collection. At that point in her career, she need- perhaps even expand to other cities. “I am in ed a new challenge. a good position to test things, to try something Elizabeth Kiester in The other factor was her immediate fondness new and cut it in a few different fabrics and see front of her store. for Siem Reap, once the artistic hub of Southeast how it sells,” she says, noting she’s begun to cut Asia and a region whose devastation by the her dresses “on the long side” and sell match- The interior of Khmer Rouge ended only 10 years ago. “It sounds ing leggings for the women who work in Siem Wanderlust. hokey, but it’s sort of a magical place in that it’s Reap’s clinics and schools. rooted in this creative history,” Kiester notes. “I Though she often has “Lost in Translation” thought, ‘There is still that undercurrent here, moments — her part-time gig teaching English and it’s just about to take off and I want to be a to a group of monks furnishes her with plenty part of that parade.’” That there were already of these — Kiester thinks she made the right five-star hotels like the Raffles Grand Hotel decision to leave New York and her fashion- d’Angkor, world-class restaurants and even a able life there. “Of course, do I miss sitting burgeoning gallery scene made for perfect tim- front-row at Marc Jacobs? Yes!” says Kiester, ing. Wanderlust opened its bright red doors in adding bagels and “sometimes the snow” to October 2008 with a garden party and a blessing the list. However, she tries to look only at the ceremony officiated by Buddhist monks. pluses. “I have luxuries here, too, but just in

mott With her store, Kiester’s aim is twofold: a different context,” she says, offering, as be- first, to provide buy-now, wear-now fashion that fits a Manhattanite, a real estate analogy. “I McDer

n “speaks a global design language,” and second, live in a French Colonial house! Something

oh to support the Khmer people and stimulate local you would admire and go crazy for if you saw it J

by economic and industrial growth. And so, instead on Bleecker Street. But mine is on an alley in of stocking her shelves with imported Western, Siem Reap, Cambodia.”

PHOTOS or even Asian, goods, Kiester designs everything — Nick Axelrod

Decades and benefiting the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. Smaller L.A. Fashion Week Set to Launch “Designers and sponsors want to see an event hap- By Marcy Medina “With IMG gone, we definitely thought a better pen before they make a commitment, so I am doing this week could be created, but the timing was not right for to get people interested and on board,” Lewis said. LOS ANGELES — With event producer IMG out and the corporate America,” said GenArt founder Ian Gerard. Two former BOXeight staffers and an independent economy in trouble, Los Angeles Fashion Week has “Sponsorships had dropped 50 to 70 percent in the show producer have formed City of Los Angeles (COLA) managed to coalesce into a 10-day series of scaled-back first quarter.” Fashion Week, a five-show, two-night event set in the events beginning Friday. With no presenting sponsors, Gerard scaled back his garment district during market. They hope to brand the The IMG-produced Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week plans to one runway show featuring three designers. event and attract more designers and sponsors next sea- at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, a partnership However, sharing BOXeight’s venue at downtown’s Los son. “We want to make this a clean, professional event that ended last year, was seen as fashion week’s an- Angeles Theater meant that the show could handle the for buyers and editors that will get designers business chor. But detractors cited subpar designers, a lack of same size audience as GenArt’s previous events. and press,” said co-founder Jess Kane. buyers and press, an abundance of D-list celebrities It’s a mutually beneficial partnership, said Peter Smashbox Studios co-owner Davis Factor also plans and an out-of-the-way location as causes of its demise. Gurnz, BOXeight founder and chief executive officer. to get back in to fashion week, although he is sitting out Competing show producers have sought to claim a big- “We have been trying to work with GenArt forever. On this season. ger stake in fashion week, but the economy hasn’t co- one level it was good news for us that IMG had left, “It’s unrealistic to raise the money to put on the operated. Sponsorship dollars are scarce and design- but on another it was a little frightening. If the big kind of event we’d like to right now,” he said. Factor ers are short on cash. companies don’t want to do [fashion week], or can’t said he’s not worried about new events eclipsing his That hasn’t stopped GenArt and BOXeight from re- do it, you get concerned about the viability of your plans, which include a Hollywood venue with a tie- turning, nor has it deterred producers from forming own efforts, so it’s great to have a partner who shares in to the entertainment world. “There will always be new events and designers from forging partnerships or your vision.” room for a good event.” going it alone. Gurnz reduced the number of nights of his event but Young designers such as Whitley Kros, Crispin & The majority of this season’s shows finally seem boosted the designers to almost 20 by adding another Basilio and Valerj Pobega are presenting intimate pre- geared toward buyers, taking place in the downtown runway that enables him to present shows every hour. sentations or installations on days that didn’t overlap garment district and leading into or coinciding with the BOXeight still has no corporate sponsors, but signed with other events. Los Angeles fashion market that runs March 20 to 24. a three-year agreement with production company Vox “It’s always been normal for us to do things on the “Absolutely, it makes more sense and makes it eas- Entertainment Inc., bringing them resources such as fly here, so we’re able to look at the calendar for the ier for us to get to shows,” said Satine boutique owner seating for up to 1,600 people, plasma screens and the right date,” said Crispin & Basilio designer Donny Jeannie Lee. extra runway. Barrios, who noted that like many contemporary de- GenArt, which has staged biannual events in Los Veteran show producer Leanna Lewis hoped the void signers, he does business during New York market Angeles since 1997, teamed with the fashion and art or- left by IMG would enable her to introduce a multiday, week, but chooses to hold events in his hometown. ganization BOXeight this year, making its group runway invitation-only runway event called Downtown L.A. “The runway season is a long and winding road, and show on Friday the opening-night event of BOXeight Fashion Week, capped by a charity fashion show open to rather than be sad that we’re trailing behind, we’d Fashion Week, a term used loosely, as it takes place the public. Instead, she is moving forward with the char- rather celebrate that we’re still here doing what we over three nights. ity fashion show, featuring clothes from vintage retailer want to be doing.” 16 WWD, thursday, march 12, 2009

Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Hot Topic, Buckle See Gains as AEO Net Declines Retail Stocks By Alexandra Steigrad Maintain Climb Going against the grain of many youth-orient- ed retailers, The Buckle Inc. and Hot Topic Inc. reported fourth-quarter earnings that exceeded both year-ago levels For Second Day and analysts’ estimates. However, American Eagle Outfitters Inc., the largest of Retail stocks managed the three specialty chains to post results on Wednesday, only their fourth two-day win- said lackluster fashion and a weak women’s business con- ning streak of the year, and their tributed to a 76.7 percent fall in its profits for the final quar- first in over a month, as the S&P ter of the fiscal year. Retail Index went above 250 on Wednesday. AMERICAN EAGLE The performance of store eq- Net income in the quarter ended Jan. 31 was $32.7 million, uities easily outpaced those of or 16 cents a diluted share, compared with $140.5 million, the major indices. While the S&P or 66 cents a share, in the year-ago period. Excluding one- Retail Index was up 4.12, or 1.7 time items and charges, the retailer recorded earnings per percent, to 250.59, the Dow Jones share of 19 cents. Industrial Average eked out an Net sales slid 9 percent, to $900.7 million from $995.4 mil- advance of 3.91, less than 0.1 per- lion, and were off 16 percent on a comparable-store basis. cent, to end the day at 6,930.40 “As a company, we cannot accept the substandard per- and the S&P 500 crept up 1.76 formance, recession or not,” said chief executive officer Jim points, or 0.2 percent, to 721.36. O’Donnell on the company earnings call. “We know what is The Nasdaq Composite managed necessary to succeed, which is first and foremost strengthen- The Buckle’s profits rose 18.2 percent in the quarter. a 13.36 point, or 1 percent, bump ing in the AE women’s business. We know that our customer to 1,371.64. responds when we have the right fashion at the right price.” business was up about 28 percent for the quarter, led by denim, While dwarfed by the retail Stifel Nicolaus retail analyst Richard Jaffe concurred with the knit tops, outerwear, accessories and footwear, and accounted index’s 7.7 percent vault on ceo’s assessment: “Despite the difficult environment, customers for 55.5 percent of sales, versus 52.5 percent a year earlier. Price Tuesday, Wednesday’s perfor- have shown that they are willing to spend if the fashion is right.” points increased 5.5 percent, to $44.65. mance constituted a moral victo- Acknowledging this need, the company in January brought back Buckle’s net income rose 38.8 percent for the year, to $104.4 ry in that it was only the fourth Roger Markfield as vice chairman and executive creative direc- million, or $2.24 a share, from $75.2 million, or $1.63 a share, in time in 2009 that the index had tor, and his impact is expected to be seen in back-to-school assort- the prior-year period. Sales increased 27.8 percent to $792 million gained on back-to-back days. ments. Additionally, the retailer has more planned promotions, like from $619.9 million. Annual comps were up 20.6 percent. The index last was able to fol- its February event when jeans were under $30, which are preferred The company said it plans seven new stores in the spring, eight low an up day with another on to unplanned markdowns that cannibalize the company’s margins. stores for back-to-school and six for the holiday season. Feb. 6, when it closed at 279.48, Fourth-quarter capital expenditures were $39 million, down adding 3.5 percent on top of the from $60 million in the year-ago period. This year, they will be HOT TOPIC previous session’s 3.3 percent reduced to $110 million to $135 million from $265 million. Rock-inspired retailer Hot Topic Inc. registered a 19.2 percent gain. Prior to that, it was up a In 2008, the Pittsburgh-based firm had a 55.2 percent drop in bump in fourth-quarter profits, to $14.2 million, or 32 cents a di- total of 5.5 percent on Jan. 15 earnings, to $179.1 million, or 86 cents a share, from $400 million, luted share, from $11.8 million, or 27 cents a share, a year earlier. and 16 and managed its only or $1.82 a share in 2007. Revenue shrank 2.2 percent to $2.99 bil- Revenue was up 7.8 percent, to $238 million from $220.7 mil- three-day spurt at the very start lion from $3.06 billion. lion, as same-store sales grew 5.2 percent. Sales at the company’s of the year. The index actually First-quarter EPS is expected to come in between 4 and 7 cents namesake division were up 8.2 percent to $198.7 million, while moved ahead five sessions in a a share. Analysts expected 6 cents a share. revenues at Torrid, the company’s plus-size women’s concept, rose row beginning on Dec. 30 and 5.8 percent to $39.3 million. Comps rose 6.5 percent at Hot Topic finished the string on Jan. 6 THE BUCKLE but fell 2.7 percent at Torrid. at above 300, a level it has not The Buckle Inc.’s fourth-quarter profits jumped 18.2 percent, On the company conference call, ceo Betsy McLaughlin said that reached since. besting analysts’ estimates by 2 cents, as the retailer was able at Hot Topic accessories comps were up 15 percent and fashion ac- Among the strongest perform- to further increase sales and price points in both its men’s and cessories up in the midteens. “The women’s category comped up 15 ers on Wednesday was J. Crew women’s businesses. percent, [while the] men’s category comped up 4 percent,” she said. Group Inc., shares of which rose The Kearney, Neb.-based retailer’s net income jumped to $34.3 Earnings climbed 23.3 percent for the year, to $19.7 million, or 7.2 percent to $10.42 following its million, or 74 cents a share, from $29.1 million, or 63 cents a share, 45 cents a share, from $16 million, or 36 cents a share, in 2007. Net report late Tuesday of a smaller- in last year’s period. Excluding a charge of 5 cents a share related to sales rose 4.5 percent to $761.1 million from $728.1 million. Comps than-anticipated fourth-quar- the declining value of some investments, profit was 79 cents a share. were up 1 percent, led by a 12.1 percent comp increase by Torrid. ter loss. Liz Claiborne Inc. and Revenue grew 21.5 percent to $251.4 million from $207 million The City of Industry, Calif.-based firm said it expects a net loss Lululemon Athletica Inc. ramped as quarterly comps jumped 14.3 percent. of 1 cent to net earnings of 1 cent based on a comp increase in up 7.1 percent and 6.8 percent, Buckle said its men’s business, down to 44.5 percent of the total the midsingle-digit range. The company said quarterly revenues respectively, to $2.11 and $5.37, from 47.5 percent a year ago, increased about 13.5 percent for the should be between $168 million and $172 million. Analysts had and Macy’s Inc. rose 6.7 percent quarter, led by denim, woven knit shirts and outerwear. Average predicted flat earnings on sales of $168.1 million. to $7.85. price points increased 12 percent to $53.30. Buckle’s women’s — Contributions from Vicki M. Young — Arnold J. Karr

10 Best Performers 10 Worst Performers

DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt High Low Last %Change High Low Last %Change

2.20 1.41 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 6699 1.8 +27.66 3.02 2.31 CBL (CBL) 21.0 2974479 2.33 -26.03

0.89 0.72 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 291790 0.77 +20.31 9.40 7.13 Collective Brands (PSS) 20.2 5804789 7.72 -20.41

1.33 1.06 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 135705 1.33 +17.70 1.86 1.50 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 8909444 1.56 -11.86

14.16 12.12 Citi Trends (CTRN) 11.2 142690 13.95 +13.23 0.39 0.32 safilo * (SFL:MI) 6.4 2887178 0.32 -8.81

1.39 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 3.6 1046821 1.39 +10.32 4.79 4.07 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 2.1 179139 4.33 -8.26

18.26 16.70 Carter (CRI) 12.8 1835480 17.9 +8.48 9.71 8.56 macerich (MAC) - 4017937 8.80 -8.14

0.28 0.26 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 200 0.28 +7.69 59.23 53.99 Chattem (CHTT) 17.5 1356931 55.02 -7.89

2.63 2.41 Revlon (REV) 2.1 121815 2.55 +7.59 5.33 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 18630 4.98 -7.43

11.19 10.06 J. Crew (JCG) 6.7 4627767 10.42 +7.20 0.42 0.36 General Growth (GGP) 4.3 4304244 0.40 -6.98

2.12 1.89 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 1598586 2.11 +7.11 2.03 1.83 Caché (CACH) 10.3 81765 1.83 -6.63

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, thursday, march 12, 2009 17 WWD.COM Financial Charges Drag Neiman’s to $509M Loss

Continued from page one Skinner said the company chose not to do heavy provide more recognition as the level of spending in- 21.4 percent to $1.08 billion from $1.37 billion in last year’s markdowns on men’s clothing and jewelry, which will creases. He said there are a “number of ideas that will same period. Comp-store sales declined 22.8 percent. take a while to sell off. He compared the actions taken bring positive results, but for competitive reasons, we Burton Tansky, chairman and chief executive officer to reduce inventory with moves taken after the 9/11 ter- aren’t going to provide more details about other mar- of Neiman Marcus, divided customers keting plans.” into two categories. “The aspirational Neiman’s is analyzing every cost and customer has a strong desire for luxury maintaining only essential expendi- merchandise, but [her] financial capa- tures, he said. A thorough evaluation of bility is not as secure as it has been. A the business that began 15 months ago meaningful improvement in the economy has taken on new urgency. “We’ve imple- will bring this customer back into stores, mented many changes to date, such as although she will be more discerning consolidated alterations,” Tansky said. than before,” he said. “The core custom- “We reviewed entire store organization ers have seen their net worth diminish, and design and made several process some very substantially. They are heavily changes in back offices. In addition, we’ve invested in the stock market and this has combined managerial responsibilities for impacted their desire to spend.” units in multistore markets. The changes Tansky has been vigorously defend- will improve our operational efficiency ing the luxury business model, but on and expense structure.” Wednesday he acknowledged consum- In mid-February, the retailer laid off ers might never regain the same robust 450 employees from the vice president taste for shopping they’ve had for a few level on down and reduced salaries for years. “A meaningful improvement in some personnel. In January, Neiman’s the economy will bring [the aspirational] eliminated 375 jobs, many of which were customer back into stores, although she on the cosmetics sales floor in a realign- will be more discerning than before,” he ment of responsibilities in that area. said. Once the economy improves, the Company-wide, the number of employ- core customer’s shopping will become ees is down 15 percent from a year ago more normal.” and 20 percent from two years ago, the Like other luxury retailers such as spokeswoman said, noting the elimina- Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus has tions include reorganizations and not seen demand wane as consumers become filling open positions. “The eye is always more reticent about spending. Tansky ad- to maintain the customer service experi- mitted Neiman’s was promotional during ence,” she said. the holiday season and still was left with “We’ve made some very hard decisions a surplus. “We will still be under pres- as a company,” Tansky said, “the termina- sure, which could create a challenge for tion of some of our associates and pay re- us to get inventory in line for the spring ductions for all salary employees.” season,” he said during a conference call The company is reining in capital ex- with Wall Street analysts. “Our strategy is penditure. “It’s important to invest in our based on full-price selling. We believe in stores,” Tansky said. “Not surprisingly, all the long run that it’s critical to maintain proposed investments are being analyzed pricing integrity. In the short term, we to a heightened degree. Our capital plan will continue to take appropriate actions has been reduced for the year by 30 per- to adjust our inventory conditions to get cent. We eliminated some projects.” them more in line with demand.” In terms of new stores, Neiman’s Those actions include canceling or- opened a unit in Topanga, Calif, last ders, returning merchandise and asking September. The next store opening vendors for markdown money, Tansky is slated for this September, with a admitted. At the same time, Neiman 125,000-square-foot unit in Bellevue, Marcus is rebalancing assortments or Wash. The remaining stores on the ros- looking for a broader range of price ter include Walnut Creek and San Jose, points within individual brands. “We Calif.; Sarasota, Fla.; Princeton, N.J., Neiman Marcus’ operating loss may now buy more in the middle third,” and Oyster Bay, N.Y. As for future stores, for the quarter was $32.6 million. said James Skinner, executive vice the spokeswoman said, “Right now, we’d president and chief financial officer of have to have some indication that people Neiman Marcus, in an interview. are shopping in that market. Do people “With each new season comes the op- go to events? Do they dress up? It’s not portunity to start fresh,” Tansky said. The core customers have seen their net worth purely real estate. It has to be a market “As we develop our plans for the coming “ that could maintain a Neiman Marcus.” fall, we are carefully evaluating our mer- diminish, some very substantially. They are heavily Gross margins in the quarter fell 960 chandise assortment. The range of price basis points to 23.9 percent from 33.5 per- points won’t change, however, we will an- invested in the stock market and this has impacted cent in the prior year. alyze the opportunity of the allocation of In the first half of its fiscal year, price points. This will likely result in the their desire to spend.­ Neiman Marcus recorded a net loss of elimination of many of our vendors.” ” — Burton Tansky, Neiman Marcus $496.4 million compared with a profit The criteria for elimination will, for of $123.1 million a year earlier. This the most part, be sales, said a spokes- includes the impairment charges and woman. “They would have had to have been sort of mar- rorist attacks, when consumers pulled away from shop- a $32.5 million pension curtailment gain. Adjusted ginal anyway. When business is really good you can have ping for emotional reasons. EBITDA was $162.8 million, compared with $397.7 mil- some marginal [lines]. However, if sales are marginal, Tansky stressed the firm’s loyalty program, InCircle, lion a year earlier. Sales for the six months fell 17.6 per- but workmanship is terrific, a number of decisions will drives sales and creates loyalty. The company has cent to $2.07 billion from $2.51 billion. have to be made.” made changes to make the program more inclusive and — With contributions from Matthew Lynch Bon-Ton Swings to $87.7M Loss in Fourth Quarter By Vicki M. Young billion. Comparable-store sales in the quarter declined 9.7 percent. “Consistent with the retail industry in general, the highly promotional climate and soft holiday season Hurt by an impairment charge and the highly promotional nature led to higher net markdowns and a decline in our gross margin rate as compared with of the holiday season, The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. Wednesday said it swung to a large the same period last year,” said Bud Bergren, president and chief executive officer. fourth-quarter loss. Gross margin eroded to 34.7 percent of sales from 37.5 percent in the year-ago quarter. For the three months ended Jan. 31, the loss was $87.7 million, or $5.22 a diluted He added that because the retailer expects to continue to feel the effects of a weak share, against income of $75.2 million, or $4.43, in the year-ago quarter. Excluding economy in 2009, it is “projecting a decline in comparable-stores sales and, accord- noncash impairment charges to reduce the reported value of long-lived and intan- ingly, we are planning a reduction in inventory receipts until we see signs of improv- gible assets and a provision for a valuation allowance for deterred tax assets, the ing consumer sentiment.” firm would have reported net income of $2.17 a share in the quarter, 5 cents above the The retailer said in January that it was implementing cost-savings initiatives af- analyst consensus estimate. fecting operating expenses, capital expenditures and inventory levels that it project- The finish ahead of expectations helped to drive Bon-Ton shares up 20 cents, or ed would produce at least $70 million in annual savings. A one-time expense, includ- 17.7 percent, to close at $1.33 Wednesday, the third best performance on a percentage ing severance, of about $2 million is anticipated for these reductions, Bergren said. basis of all stocks tracked by WWD. For the year, the loss was $169.9 million, or $10.12 a diluted share, against income of Total revenues were down 9.5 percent to $1.06 billion in the quarter from $1.17 $11.6 million, or 68 cents, in 2007. Total revenues fell 7 percent to $3.23 billion from $3.47 billion. Revenues include a 9.4 percent decrease in sales to $1.03 billion from $1.14 billion. Revenues include a 7 percent decline in sales to $3.13 billion from $3.37 billion. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 WWD.COM

MEMO PAD Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Bernard Arnault is number 15 on the list at $16.5 billion, versus La Perla Taps Prost as CEO LIFE LOST: Rodale’s upscale men’s magazine the $25.5 billion Forbes estimated on the 2008 By Luisa Zargani Best Life has become the latest victim of list. L’Oréal heiress Liliane Bettencourt placed A look from the recession. On Wednesday, the company 21st on the list, with estimated net worth of MILAN — La Perla has ap- La Perla. said it would fold the five-year-old title. $13.4 billion. Last year, the magazine guessed pointed Alain Prost as its “Despite the great work of the sales team her wealth at $22.9 billion. Giorgio Armani and new chief executive officer, and the talent of the editorial staff, given Ralph Lauren tied for 224th on the list, with $2.8 effective April 20. the challenges of the advertising market and billion each, down from $5 billion and $4.2 The appointment con- general conditions, Best Life could not meet billion, respectively, according to the 2008 list. firms a report on WWD.com our internal benchmarks. We have made the Brothers Donald and S.I. Newhouse Wednesday. Prost succeeds decision to focus our resources on our core Jr., whose holdings include Condé Nast current ceo Jeff Hansen, brands,” said Steve Murphy, Rodale’s president Publications (parent company of WWD), are who will assume the role of and chief executive officer. The May issue will jointly listed at the 132nd spot, with $4 billion president. Hansen is a part- be the last. About 40 people will be displaced, in estimated net worth — half of what Forbes ner of La Perla’s new owner, including vice president and publisher Michael estimated last year. They tied with News Corp. San Francisco-based private Wolfe and vice president and editor Stephen chairman Rupert Murdoch, whose fortune equity fund JH Partners Perrine, but the company said it would try to also declined by about 50 percent. William LLC, which is focused on a reassign 10 of those employees Randolph Hearst 3rd, whose reorganization and relaunch at other Rodale titles. family owns the Hearst Corp., of the luxury innerwear, Best Life launched in 2004 was billionaire number 430, beachwear, apparel and ac- as the older brother to the with an estimated $1.7 billion. cessories brand. 1.8 million circulation Men’s (Last year, the magazine pegged For the past five years Health, covering finance, family his fortune at $2.4 billion.) Prost has been general man- issues, fashion and health for Gaining a spot in the ager of intimate apparel fortysomething men. According top 10 was Spanish fashion firm Chantelle Group. Prior to figures from the Audit Bureau entrepreneur Amancia Ortega, to that, the executive worked of Circulations, Best Life’s whose $18.3 billion fortune for 20 years at L’Oréal. readership grew 6 percent to was partly made from Zara, Hansen said he will con- 526,276 in the second half of and who was down only slightly tinue to be involved in La 2008, though single-copy sales (relatively speaking) from the Perla and that, despite the fell by 7 percent in the half, $20.2 billion estimated in economy, he was “encour- to 74,381. But while through 2008. — Irin Carmon aged as ever” by its pros- 2008 Best Life increased ad pects. While not divulging pages by 7 percent to 623 — a WIRED FOR THE U.K.: Condé Nast figures, the statement said La Perla’s in-house for more than 10 years. A new feat few titles accomplished — the magazine in the U.K. is pressing ahead with a magazine new owners have successfully turned creative director replacing Alessandro carried only 63 ad pages in the first quarter of launch and Web site revamp. The U.K. edition around the company, taking it from Dell’Acqua, whose contract expired 2009, a 36 percent decline. Comparatively, of Wired will debut on newsstands April 2, and operating losses to a profit in 2008 with the spring season, is expected to GQ carried 223 pages during the first quarter, the accompanying Web site, wired.co.uk, will and expecting an increase in profit be announced soon. or 33 percent fewer pages than in 2008, while go live the same day. David Rowan has been in 2009. To streamline operations, La Men’s Health carried 140 ad pages during the tapped as editor of the magazine, while Michael La Perla, based in Bologna, plans to Perla said in October it would shed period, a 24 percent fall. Parsons will be the Web site’s international bring its production entirely in-house 365 jobs at its headquarters in While Best Life is the first Rodale title to channel manager. Condé Nast said Wired would to focus on Made-in-Italy manufac- Bologna, but, in December, Italian close in the recession, the company last week take its editorial cues from the title’s American turing. In December, La Perla signed trade unions and JH Partners moved to consolidate some of its ad sales edition, but its content will be unique to the a licensing agreement with Mariella reached an agreement under which staff across Men’s Health and Women’s Health U.K., looking at “talent in the U.K. [technology] Burani Fashion Group for the produc- government funds will pay about 70 and let go of about 20 staffers. In November, industry.” Alongside the new U.K. Web site, tion and distribution of its ready-to- percent of 250 workers’ salaries for Rodale laid of 111 employees across an Italian Web site, wired.it, will also launch wear line, which had been produced a two-year period. several divisions as a result of the economic in April. The company said the Web site and downturn. — Stephanie D. Smith magazine would allow advertisers to target “a difficult to reach group of early adopters.” BILLIONAIRES, STILL: If anyone needed Meanwhile, GQ.com, the site that reminding that these are tough times for accompanies the U.K. edition of GQ, has been AAFA Names Honorees billionaires too, Forbes’ annual billionaire list, given a new look. Condé Nast said the Web NEW YORK — The American Apparel Inc., who will be presented with the which has shrunk from 1,125 to 793, was site (which is accessed outside the U.K. via & Footwear Association has revealed Lifetime Achievement award; Norma released Wednesday evening. One of those gq-magazine.co.uk) and the magazine would the list of honorees for its 31st annual Kamali who will accept the Designer left out this time? Facebook founder Mark target what they called “a new breed of male” — American Image Awards dinner at The of the Year award, and Lilly Pulitzer, Zuckerberg, presumably because of shifting whatever that may be. The new Web site features Grand Hyatt Hotel here on May 12. celebrating 50 years in business, valuations of his company amid worries about an updated fashion section with trend editorials, This year’s honorees are Blake will be presented with the Spirit monetizing social media. men’s shows coverage and a watch gallery, and Krueger, chief executive officer and of a Woman award. In addition, the Even those who kept a spot on the list saw current advertisers include Alfa Romeo, Renault president of Wolverine World Wide Fashion Maverick Award will be pre- their fortunes diminished, however. LVMH Moët and Ben Sherman. — Louise Bartlett Inc., who will receive the Excellence sented to Mattel’s Barbie in honor of in Lifestyle Branding award; Mike her 50th birthday. George, ceo and president of QVC, The Educational Foundation for who will receive the Retailer of FIT will receive 40 percent of the net the Year award; Gilbert Harrison, proceeds gathered that evening. Inter Parfums Profits Slide 40.8% founder and chairman of Financo — Julee Kaplan FOURTH-QUARTER PROFITS AT NEW crisis, as well as the continued strength of York-based Inter Parfums Inc. fell by 40.8 the U.S. dollar relative to the euro, we are percent as sales for the quarter ended Dec. revising our 2009 guidance to net sales of 31 slumped 15.9 percent, compared with $390 million, with net income of approxi- Obama Inks $410B Spending Package the same period a year ago. mately $21 million, or 70 cents per diluted Net earnings dropped to $5.1 million, share, assuming the dollar remains at cur- By Kristi Ellis or 17 cents a diluted share, from $8.6 mil- rent levels,” the company stated. lion, or 28 cents, on sales that were down Meanwhile, earlier this week, Inter WASHINGTON — President Obama signed a $410 billion spending package on to $100.4 million from $119.4 million in the Parfums SA, the Paris-based subsidiary of Wednesday that boosts the budgets of nine federal agencies this fiscal year and year-ago period. Results were below Wall Inter Parfums Inc., reported net profit for supports a new Vietnam and China apparel import monitoring program. Street analysts’ expectations of 21 cents a 2008 was up 5 percent on-year at 21.1 million Obama called the bill “imperfect” because it contains thousands of pet proj- share, according to Yahoo Finance. euros, or $31 million, at average exchange. ects of lawmakers, known as earmarks, but he said it was necessary to keep the Operating profit spiked by 8 percent for government running. Obama vowed to place restrictions on the pet projects in the year at 34.3 million euros, or $50.47 mil- future legislation and laid out an outline for reform. Beauty beat lion. The company’s sales for 2008 came in The Senate approved the bill by voice vote on Tuesday night, after clearing Net earnings were impacted by slower at 264.9 million euros, or $389.8 million, up a procedural hurdle with a vote of 62 to 35 to end a Republican filibuster. The sales of Inter Parfums’ Nickel men’s skin 9 percent year-on-year. new spending bill provides an 8 percent increase for nine government agencies, care brand, the company said, as well as “We met sales and earnings objectives including the Commerce, State, Labor and Treasury Departments, as well as the the strengthening U.S. dollar and interest for 2008 despite the challenging econom- U.S. Trade Representative’s office. expenses. ic conditions of the second half,” stated The bill sparked an outcry among some apparel-importing groups over a pro- For the full year, profits were flat — Philippe Benacin, Inter Parfums SA’s chair- vision in an accompanying report that urges the Obama administration to resur- down just 0.25 percent to $23.77 million, man and chief executive officer. rect a Vietnam apparel-monitoring program and expand it to include apparel or 77 cents a diluted share, last year “Information on the market received in and textile imports from China. The domestic textile industry, which has lost from $23.82 million, or 76 cents, in 2007. the beginning of 2009 is relatively mixed,” thousands of jobs in the past decade, has lobbied for new restraints on imports Annual sales increased by 14.5 percent to he added. “Nevertheless, despite reduced from China and Vietnam, two major U.S. suppliers. $446.1 million in 2008 over $389.6 million visibility, based on satisfactory sales for the The Vietnam apparel-monitoring program administered by the Commerce in 2007. first quarter, we have not modified annual Department to evaluate whether goods were being sold in the U.S. below market The company noted that it is “taking ac- sales targets of 273 million euros [$349.7 value or less than the cost of manufacturing, known as dumping, had expired tions to mitigate” the negative effect of the million at current exchange] for 2009. In in January. global financial crisis on consumer demand, addition, we will continue to pursue oppor- The bill would also ban Mexican trucks from U.S. highways over environ- which has resulted in the firm’s distributors tunities for external growth in an environ- mental and safety concerns by ending a controversial pilot project that allowed and retailers carrying less inventory. ment now more favorable for acquisitions.” 100 Mexican-based truck carriers to travel in the U.S. with reciprocity for U.S. Still, “As a result of the global economic — Matthew W. Evans and Brid Costello trucks driving in Mexico. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 12, 2009 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces SALES A growing menswear collection seek- COMMERCIAL ing sales help for better specialty and department stores. We are flexible and REAL ESTATE will consider applicants with experi- ence and a following. Could be compa- ny position or commission agent. Account Executive CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Could be regional, national or on an Premium Women’s Denim Collec- U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 account basis. Apply in confidence to www.sanodesignservices.com [email protected]. tion seeks exec to support growth in top-tier Women’s specialty PATTERNS, SAMPLES, retailers and Better Dept stores. MEN’S BUYER SALES REPS PRODUCTIONS An Int’l leader in the world of Men’s and Women’s Luxury An established Canadian men’s acces- Min 3 years exp selling premium All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. fashion has an immediate opening for an exp’d Men’s Buyer. sory company seeks U.S. sales reps for apparel. Must have excellent Showrooms & Lofts Call Sherry 212-719-0622. The ideal candidate will have at least 10 years exp buying medium priced, beautiful line of belts organizational skills. For immedi- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS and suspenders. Must be motivated, ate consideration, please forward Great ’New’ Office Space Avail and planning within a Luxury Boutique envir. You will experienced and well connected to ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, select and analyze seasonal buys for various markets retail stores. E-mail resume to: an updated resume to: PRODUCTIONS throughout the US and be responsible for all facets of the [email protected] fax 514-382-0726. [email protected] Full service shop to the trade. buying process from start to finish including market and sales Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. forecasting analysis and reacting to business needs accord- ingly. You will have excel comm skills and the ability to work Salesperson in a fast paced and dynamic envir. We offer a comp salary Factory seeking salesperson to bring production orders from retailer plus a full benefits package. E-mail resume to : /wholesalers and/or licensee holders. 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes [email protected] No minimum quantity with excellent Complete Line | Concept to Sample pricing from oversea production. Menswear Showrooms Bridge | Contemporary | Couture Mkt Work at your own pace. Please email D. Levy Adams & Co. #212-679-5500 By experienced Designer-Merchandiser to: [email protected] T 212 252 9370 | E [email protected] DIRECTOR OF MEN’S DESIGN SENIOR SALESPERSON Needed F-T or P-T. Must Have Incredi- TUMI, the leading international brand of luxury travel, business and lifestyle ble love of Women’s Fashion and great accessories, has an outstanding career opportunity available in our Manhat- work ethic. Must have experience in tan location for a Director of Men’s Design. Design Director women’s multi brand designer and Prestigious day and evening brand is contemporary sales in Manhattan. seeking a lead designer experienced in Must have a customer list. References Candidates must demonstrate an understanding of market/fashion trends high-end RTW . Must be able to lend required. Hourly wages and commission. as they relate to products, styles and color as well as create and develop significant creative & technical influence Valerie Feigen & lead all aspects of design to include [email protected] concepts and specs that optimize the function, value and appearance of sourcing, sample making, and producing Or [email protected] products. You will be responsible for the design and development of new a comprehensive day/evening collection 212 876 1368 product lines and styles, as well as extending current collections. You will plan. Relevant experience in a high-end day/evening RTW company with runway be expected to communicate concepts and details through verbal and written presentations are a must. Respond presentations and drawings. To qualify for this position you must have a with resume & min. salary req. in confi- proven track record in men’s accessory design and a minimum 8-10 dence to: [email protected] years experience. Domestic and international travel required. Tumi offers a competitive salary and a comprehensive benefits program. Interested candidates should send resumes to: [email protected] or fax: 908-756-8590. EOE DESIGNER AVAILABLE Recession inspired designs! Very unique approach! Freelance (lines designed). ALL categories of menswear. Exp’d. Proven track record. Lets talk! Send contact info to: [email protected]

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Sarah Jessica Parker Desirée Rogers in in L’Wren Scott. For more, Basso & Brooke. see WWD.com.

Kate Moss and Lily Allen, both in Chanel. John Malkovich Night Moves TUESDAY NIGHT A CROWD GATHERED AT THE s Emily Blunt Tribeca Grand for the premiere of “The Great Buck in Dsquared2. Howard,” in which John Malkovich plays a washed-up mentalist. But offscreen, “My magician skills were Valesca Guerrand-Guerrand- never really of an extraordinarily high caliber,” said Hermès inin Versace.Versace. Malkovich before the screening, which was hosted by the Cinema Society and Brooks Brothers. What he is more skilled at is fashion design — Malkovich designed 10 collections for his line, Uncle Kimono, but then stopped. “I may start again,” he said. “At the end of the month I’m going to Italy to meet with some people, so we will see.” Afterward, guests including co-star Emily Blunt, Jane Fonda, Debra Winger, Rose McGowan and Jason Schwartzman partied at the Soho Grand, where Tom Hanks, who produced the movie and whose son Colin is the star, held court. The younger Hanks was on a break from making his Broadway debut in “33 Variations.” “I like both stage and screen,” said Colin. “They are apples and oranges, but they are both really delicious fruit.” Meanwhile, Marjorie Gubelmann, Valesca Guerrand-Hermès, Patricia Duff, Serena Boardman and Becca Cason Thrash navigated long trains and dipping necklines at the Museum of the City of New York’s Winter Ball, which was sponsored by Versace. “I’m totally taped in — I have extra tape in my bag,” said Heather Mnuchin of her plunging gown. During dinner, museum regulars held down the fort at long tables in the first floor gallery, while upstairs a younger crowd chair-hopped and snuck cigarette breaks outside. The night before, the School of American Ballet held its Winter Ball at Lincoln Center, which was attended by Sarah Jessica Parker, Chelsea Clinton and Obama Administration Social Secretary Desirée Rogers, who may organize an SAB-related event for the White House. She has also been checking out Washington’s scene at venues like local jazz clubs. “We want them for a poetry slam,” she said of one particular spot. “It’s my job to stay ahead of the trends.” Blake Lively, a guest of the evening’s sponsor Van Cleef & Arpels, was similarly enthusiastic about the cultural mood. “I was just saying to [my boyfriend] Penn [Badgley] that coming from Los Angeles, it’s wonderful to be in a city where people come out to support the arts.” Penn Badgley and Blake Lively, And in Paris, Kate Moss was the main attraction at a party Tuesday night both in Ralph Lauren. at Chanel’s Rue Cambon headquarters for the launch of Another Magazine’s new tome, “Another Fashion Book.” The cameras trailed her from the dance floor, where she boogied with Stefano Pilati, up to the private apartment of Coco Chanel, where guests including Freida Pinto took guided tours. Revelers felt so at home they flouted the apartment’s strict no-smoking rule and set off an alarm. Lily Allen posed in a pair of Chanel rabbit ears alongside Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel’s accessories designer Laetitia Crahay. “Fancy dress is my favorite thing,” said Allen as she was handed more Chanel goodies, including tweed-covered bangles. “Put them away, we don’t want everyone

seeing,” Crahay whispered. STEVE EICHNER FEUGERE; ALL OTHERS BY Chelsea Clinton in Prada After presenting for the Discovery Channel’s “green” channel, Angela with Jill Kargman in Chanel. Lindvall said she’s next turning editor for a new, still hush-hush eco magazine. STEPHANE BY PINTO DOMINIQUE MAITRE; SCOTT RUDD; MOSS PHOTOS BY BY

Karl LagerfeldLagerfeld pointspoints aa cameracamera Heather Mnuchin Colin Hanks in Calvin PARTY HOWARD at FreidaFreida Pinto,Pinto, inin Chanel.Chanel. in Versace. Klein Collection. Valentino andand TomTom HanksHanks BUCK