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Home , Marne (river), Montagne de Reims, Mutigny, Verzenay

WHERE TO LIVE

ChampagneChampagnelifestyle Overflowing with , rivers and major cultural attractions, Marne has much to offer, as Paola Westbeek discovers

ocated in the region, corks, were of crucial importance for the Marne is home to 66% of production and success of champagne. Champagne’s noble vineyards, Today, as you stroll through ’ yet the department has much pleasant streets, it isn’t just the spectacular more to add to its list of vistas of slopes hugged by vines or the wondersL than the revered sparkling drink. famous abbey and church where Dom With UNESCO sites such as Épernay’s Pérignon was laid to rest that will capture prestigious Avenue de Champagne and your attention, but also the charming the magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral in alleys and houses adorned with decorative and former Abbey of Saint-Rémi, wrought-iron signs used to symbolise Marne is also known for its rich cultural work and other professions. heritage and lush green landscapes. Spending a day here is easy, whether Discover how cachet meets campagne feasting your eyes, tickling your taste buds in a department that invites you to taste – or both. its with passionate winemakers In the bright, spacious tasting room one day and go mountain biking between of G. Tribaut (one of the local producers) vineyards and forests the next. located on the edge of the village, you can educate your palate while indulging in CRADLE OF CHAMPAGNE panoramic views over a sea of vineyards. Mention Marne and most may not Or, you can stop by Au 36, a cosy and Marne immediately make the connection to the friendly bar that serves beautifully iconic drink, yet it is in this department presented local appetisers with different where champagne’s story unfolds and styles of champagne. At a continues to inspire. Some 10km to the east, nestled In Hautvillers, an historic village among the vines, is where more glance surrounded by vineyards, Dom Pérignon impressive viewpoints await. Perched (1638-1715) dedicated his life to his faith at an altitude of 240m, it is the region’s Case study and to perfecting champagne. During highest viticultural village and a must-visit 26 A family tell their story his 47 years at Abbaye St-Pierre, the for champagne novices. During the 2.2km Benedictine monk was cellar master and Sentier du Vigneron tour (including one Ask the Agent in charge of wine production. Though to three tastings), you can learn about the 28 Expert property advice he cannot be credited with inventing wine region’s history, grape varieties, soil,

the , his remarkable seasons and all the work that goes into On the market s innovations such as blending grapes from making champagne. You will leave with 30 A round-up of homes for sale age

different soils to make the perfect cuvée, a new appreciation for the distinguished tty Im e black grapes quickly to keep their bubbly, which isn’t only saved for Fact file juices clear and using heavier bottles and celebrations here! 31 Useful info and contacts thtownboy / G u 20 Living Autumn 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com Autumn 2019 Living France 21 Photo © so WHERE TO LIVE Marne

VERDANT PARADISE at the end of your visit, with a Besides wine production, Marne is a tasting of champagne. mostly agricultural and green department Come the summer, the Lac with a wealth of natural and floral du Der’s six beaches are a great splendour. In fact, Marne was voted place for soaking up some sun 5 France’s number one Département Fleuri in or partaking in water sports such 2014 with 179 towns and villages awarded as swimming, sailing, paddling, facts about one to four flowers. canoeing and fishing. Measuring Marne’s verdant paradise, Parc Naturel approximately 4,800 hectares, it is champagne The , Régional de la Montagne de Reims, Europe’s largest artificial lake and the See Marne’s vineyards from the sky in a hot air balloon Épernay’s Avenue de Champagne boasts mansions built located approximately 150km consists of 40% dense forests that provide natural habitat of more than 200 bird by wealthy wine merchants in the 19th century plenty of space for walking, cycling and species and other wildlife. east of , encompasses 34,000 all other kinds of outdoor pursuits. The hectares and stretches out over protected park spans 65 communities and SPARKLING CITIES four viticultural areas: Montagne 50,000 hectares. To the east, you’ll find Sparsely populated (and often overlooked), de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte the Faux de , home to the world’s Marne is especially appealing to those who des Blancs and Côte des Bar. only reserve of dwarf beech trees that grow crave tranquil surroundings, space and Out of the 320 Champagne in peculiar twisted shapes. Also unique fresh air. Its lively cities, however, attract villages (‘crus’), 17 are classified as in Verzy’s forest is the Perching Bar, a plenty of tourism. Reims, only 45 minutes Grand Cru and 42 as Premier Cru. chic ‘treehouse’ decked with hanging ice from Paris by high-speed train (TGV), is buckets and leather swings where you can perfect for a weekend getaway. Famed for Champagne can be made sip champagne at an altitude of 5.5 metres. its 13th-century Notre-Dame Cathedral with a blend of three grape In the neighbouring village of , where 33 rulers were crowned between 816 varieties, each one adding their the Musée de la Vigne invites you to and 1825, the ‘Coronation City’ is replete own specific characteristics to discover the history and geology of the with cultural heritage. the cuvée: Pinot meunier, planted vineyards in a lighthouse (Le Phare de The Palais de Tau, former residence mostly in Vallée de la Marne, Verzenay) dating to 1919. If you’re in of the city’s archbishop, is now a much provides roundness and notes of good shape, start the visit by climbing visited museum displaying the cathedral’s apples, pears and honey; pinot up the lighthouse’s 101 steps. You will be statues, tapestries and other treasures. noir, grown mainly in Montagne Exploring Châlons-en-Champagne de Reims, packs a punch adding rewarded with a wonderful bird’s-eye view Taittinger, Mumm, Pommery and by boat Enjoy a glass of fizz at a champagne bar in Reims of the Montagne de Reims vineyards and, other famous cellars are headquartered structure and body with forest fruits and spice; and , king of the chalky soils in the Did you in Reims making the city one of the AFFORDABLE PROPERTY Johannes says: “We transformed one of Côte des Blancs, adds elegance most important centres of champagne Johannes Landman (former ambassador the outbuildings, the Hunting Lodge, into a and finesse with white flowers, know? production in the region. to the Netherlands) fell in love with holiday cottage with two wings which can minerality and citrussy notes. During the Hundred Years’ Épernay, champagne’s prosperous Argonne, the hilly and wooded area to be rented separately or together. Millésimes are made exclusively War, Reims Cathedral and the capital, is 25 kilometres to the south. the east, when he first visited in 1979. “The east wing sleeps six to eight and from a single year, blanc des blancs Stroll through the monumental After spending summers with his French the smaller west wing has two bedrooms. city was under seige by the

e from chardonnay and blanc des English from 1359 Avenue de Champagne and admire n in-laws, he decided to buy the historic Recently, we restored the Great Stable.

pag noirs from pinot noir and/or pinot m to 1360 the sumptuous mansions that were a Château de Villers (chateau-de-villers-en- It sleeps two to eight and has a spacious meunier. Rosé are

built by wealthy wine merchants in the e Ch champagne.nl/en) in 1994, permanently loft and large balcony overlooking its own

sm made with 15% still .

19th century. Even more remarkable uri settling there after his retirement in 2009. private garden.” o ic ; In 2015, Champagne’s hillsides, perhaps is the distinguished avenue’s e / T Miraculously, the centuries-old estate, The fact that Marne is not high on on n T

ir the list of those looking to settle or buy a houses and cellars were declared

exceptional underground allure: a 110km Mar which is situated on a hill and overlooks T ; e ; A network of cellars dug out in the 18th and n the beautiful village, managed to survive second home or holiday let in France has a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ; e ; AD pag n 19th centuries and now home to more m the ravages of war. its advantages. More than 300 million bottles a pag

m of champagne are produced a

than 300 million bottles of champagne. n-Ch “Since the times of Jeanne d’Arc, this “You can find attractive property here, e

Châlons-en-Champagne, known as the e Ch region witnessed many wars, of which the maisons de caractère, as some are called, at annually, of which 50% are lons- sm a relatively low prices,” Johannes says. exported (with the UK trumping

‘Sparkling Venice’ and the department’s uri First World War was the most destructive,” o

capital, is intersected by the Marne, Nau OT Ch says Johannes. “It helps if you are handy, because the list of export markets). ; e ; T llo/ sm and Mau rivers, making the city a joy to re “The French Revolution was also restorations are not cheap. Nevertheless, o B uri e o T

discover from the water. n particularly ferocious in this border area prices are way below what you would e Its centre boasts handsome squares n and an obvious passageway into France for pay in the more popular and populated

pag MORE Lugdivi m ; ;

and cafés where you can stop for a a Austrian and Prussian troops. .”

eek ONLINE coffee before exploring attractions such e /Ch “That explains why not many castles According to Trevor Leggett, Chairman stb n

We Find out more about the Grand Est region

as the Gothic St-Etienne Cathedral Mar survived destruction,” he continues. of Leggett Immobilier (leggettfrance.com) ns T completefrance.com/regions-of-France/ and the Notre-Dame-en-Vaux church, Ha In order to meet the cost of renovations the average price of a house in Marne is alsace-champagne-ardenne-lorraine €1,578/m2 2 Reims Cathedral is a World Heritage Site which houses Europe’s largest carillon and upkeep, parts of the château’s estate , so for a house of 150m you Photos Photos © comprised of 56 bells. Photos © AD were turned into a holiday let. would pay approximately €236,000.

22 Living France Autumn 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com Autumn 2019 Living France 23 WHERE TO LIVE Marne

know?Did you The first of Dom Pérignon was 1921 and it Lac du Der has six sandy beaches and is abundant in birdlife was only released for sale in 1936 in New York

This compares to an average price in trotters in a fragrant bouillon for at least 12 France (excluding Paris) of €1,983/m2, or hours before breading them and roasting €297,450. “Of course, prices within the them in the oven. department vary,” he says. “Expect to The region’s delicate, blush-coloured pay over €2,000/m2 in prime areas (Reims lentils, delicious in soups or hearty salads, and Épernay) and under €1,100/m2 in the are another must-try. most affordable, which are away from the Sweet treats, including the cork- vineyards towards the east and south-east shaped chocolates known as bouchons de of the department.” Champagne and Maison Fossier’s biscuits e roses, are just as pretty as they are tasty. n pag m

GOURMET DELICACIES The production of the chocolates can be a

While champagne attracts wine witnessed at Chocolatier Thibaut in the e Ch sm

connoisseurs, Marne’s cuisine is equally village of , and if you visit Maison uri o tempting and will please even the most Fossier’s factory in Reims, you can see

Above: Ripe red grapes in Verzenay ier / T Below: Delicious biscuits roses de Reims discerning of palates. From October to how the pink biscuits (which according to December, black truffles grow between the tradition, should be dipped in champagne!) son Foss

roots of the region’s trees and are used to have been made since 1756. Mai ; e ; add aroma and flair to many local dishes. Clearly, Marne’s charm goes beyond n pag m

Mustard and -aged vinegar from its famed drink. The department’s food, a

Reims imparts zesty flavour to sauces, peaceful villages, historic cities and natural e Ch sm

vinaigrettes and marinades. Reims beauty make it one to keep in mind when uri o

mustard goes particularly well with the house-hunting in France. e / T n

robust jambon de Reims and other local Mar T charcuterie. Though it may not sound very appealing, if you spot pieds de porc à la -Coll/AD er

Sainte-Ménehould on a menu, do give the Turn over z ie dish a go. For a family’s story of finding their The recipe, which is believed to date to dream country villa in

the 15th century, calls for simmering pig’s Photos © R. K

24 Living France Autumn 2019 completefrance.com