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Godmé Père & Fils & 44 3. 4&3 4&3 " " 4 . 4 . 8 " " " " / 8 8 / / : : : , , , $ $ $ 5SBEF(PUIJD $ $ $ & & & # # Godmé Père & Fils # & At a Glance 44 3. Iconic Wines 4& " 4& 4 3 3 " "4 . " . LOCATION: Champagne, Montagne de8 Reims, EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU: 4g/l. 60% Verzenay pinot 8 " / 8 " / : / : Verzenay noir and 40% Verzy chardonnay. 80% fermented : , , in wood with only 30% malo. The pinot for this SIZE: 11 hectares (soon the be 7.6) , $ $ $ $ $ cuvée is right on the on chalk. It provides$ a $MFBSGBDF4UE & & GRAPES: chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier & # # profound mineral anchor# while the chardonnay Peter Liem is one of several important voices who goes all Tinkerbell around it, conjuring wildly with considers Godmé as “one of the finest estates in her wand discreet little comets of flavor. Then the the northern Montagne de Reims.” intricate blend of reserve wines from no less than five vintages infuses everything with umami. As to Certified Biodynamic, native yeast, no fining, no the finish, it is nothing short of contemplative: filtration, vinification in wood and ageing on lees, deeply saline, elegantly chalky, and marvelously parcel selections, low sulfur, low dosages, we fine and precise. Though an NV cuvée, this is, would be hard-pressed to name many other looks, and behaves like a prestige cuvée. Champenois who like Hughes can check all the 44&3. boxes that add up to constitute the nouvelle" vague LES CHAMPS ST MARTIN PINOT44 NOIR&3 GRAND CRU 2006: 44&3 " " . " . of champagne. Furthermore, Hugues8 has been 3g/l. 100% pinot noir from Verzenay." 100% vinified " / 8 8 / / doing all this great work in isolation: and without and aged in used barrels. No malo. It behaves like : : , any chest thumping. “Character is doing the right great red Volnay Santenots, with dark fruit, great , , $ $ $ thing when no one is watching” could have been minerality in reserve,$ all coiled up for now in the $ $ & 6OJWFST4UE & & coined for him. Consecration is imminent.# His mid-palate. Ripe, nervy, chalky, saline, savory, very # viticulture and winemaking are as cutting edge as long, concentrated yet elegant,# it is one of the best it gets. His wines are relevant, refined and Blancs de Noir in all of Champagne and proof that profound. Verzenay is one of the top terroirs in the Montagne de Reims. 4&3 "4 . 4&3 4&3 " "4 . "4 . 8 " " / 8 8 / : / : : , , , $ $ .JOJPO1SP $ $ $ $ & & & # # # 132 Background could have been coined with him Hugues mind, it Agrapart, Bereche, Boulard, Chartogne-Taillet, would be “character is doing the right thing when Marie Courtin, Horiot, Laval, Lahaye, Leclapart, The Godmés have been vignerons in Verzenay no one is watching.” Marie Noelle Ledru, and Tarlant. That’s a hell of a since the 19th century. Joseph Godmé, Hugues’ gang, and Godmé belongs among them. In his small three-story winery that looks grandfather , began bottling just after WWII and somewhat like an abandoned industrial building was soon bottling the totality of his production (a that would make a perfect setting for a movie Biodynamics rarity at that time for a small grower and a great about a gang of rebel winemakers in a dystopian testament to the quality of the wines.) Hugues’ future, Hugues has done all his great work quietly, Hugues is madly in love with his vineyards. Madly. father followed in Joseph’s footsteps and never in isolation. Only recently has he started to hang As you tour them he will barely stop to catch his had to sell a single kilo of grapes. There were out with fellow nouvelle vague producers Benoit breath while he enumerates in an uninterrupted vignerons on Hugue’s wife’s side too, in Lahaye and Vincent Laval. With Lahaye’s autistic flow every step he took to protect his Villed ommange. The first bottles were sold there sponsorship, Hugues has applied to become part vines from the vicissitudes of the vintage, every in the thirties. one of their victories over adversity. of Terre et Vins de Champagne, a group of like- Hugues was born in 1958. He got his first minded producers that includes, among others, Once Hugues has shown you the vineyards in vineyard, 1¼ acres, from his grandfather in 1976 while he was still a student at the lycée viticole. The consecration of Hugues Godmé is imminent. If it hasn’t yet happened, it is because up to now Hugues and his sister Sabine have jointly been running the estate, but unfortunately, they have very different ideas about Champagne. Sabine prefers a more traditional approach, with higher dosages, shiny aureate labels and the like. Consequently, the domaine has remained as the French beautifully put it le cul entre deux chaises, its ass between two chairs. And while the viticulture has been impeccable at Godmé for quite some time, it is only Hugues’ three single vineyards and his Extra Brut Grand Cru that are everything one wants from the nouvelle vague. Though excellent, the other cuvées have until recently been trapped in a bit of a halfway house, neither traditional nor modern. In effect, one has two styles under the same roof, and this has made the domaine a little hard to market. Their differences are so irreconcilable that Hugues and his sister Sabine have decided to split the up the family domain. As of this year, Hugues is free to produce non-vintage wines as inspired and cutting edge as his prestige cuvées are. That said, even if he had been free to make wine the way he wanted to, success would have still come to Hugues slowly. For a maker of hipster champagne, he is unusually void of chest- thumping or social media savvy. If one phrase 645 from commenting from the peanut gallery, throwing out plenty of those good old farming proverbs. A good plowing is worth a good shower, Hugues remembered as he pondered his stressed vines. So he went back to the winery, hitched a plow to his tractor, and that was that. In one fell swoop, he went back to working the soil of his entire domaine. With 9 hectares then, but only one plow and very few vineyards workers, it was a gigantic effort to undertake overnight. After a few years of soil cultivation, Hugues decided to wean his vineyards off of chemicals. Starting with an experiment on 1/10th of an acre in 2002, extending it in 2003 to 2/10th of an acre, he accelerated the conversion until the entire estate was organic in 2007. In 2004, Hugues enlisted the help of Pierre Masson, the famous biodynamic Verzenay, he will take you to the vineyards in is almost a little too private. Verzy, and after he has shown you those, he will With so much amour, it will come as no surprise ask whether you would like to see the vineyards in that Hugues manages his vineyards Villers -Marmery. “It’s just down the road”, he’ll biodynamically. This began on an impulse. venture, anxiously, lest you decline. And when you do decline because you have all his wines yet to On a scorching day in the summer of 1997, a taste and another appointment to attend to, he will miserably dry year, Hugues stood staring at his look at you a little wounded, like a child would who drought-stressed vines. The weather service had had painted a mug for you in art class, and you had no reprieve to broadcast. There was no rain in barely taken the time to look at it. sight. There is tenderness in the rapport Hughes has In the nineties, farmers of Hugues’ generation had with his vines, a solicitude for them, that is only known chemical farming –their fathers began unusual even among the greatest French farming that way in the fifties. But grandparents vignerons. Watching him in the vineyards, it feels were still around; they had farmed in an entirely at times like you have walked in on something that different manner. There was no stopping them 798 consultant to DRC and Lafon, and experimented he will use a pied de cuve. homeopathic doses of plants like horsetail, a on a few parcels. He switched the entire estate to WOOD: Hugues vinifies and ages his 15 best scarcity of lactic bacteria in his barrel cellar, and his biodynamic in 2006. Organic and biodynamic parcels (representing about 1/3 of his production) willingness to make wines that are on the edge of certification processes were begun in 2011. The separately in wood, used barrels only – he does stable. organic certification was obtained in 2013, the not like new wood. The barrels are mostly Francois FINING, FILTRATION: No. biodynamic certification in 2014. Frères that he purchases from the cooper when RÉSERVE WINES: The percentage of reserve wines in “We are working with a plant that is truly they are one or two years old. The percentage of the non-vintage cuvées varies between 40 to 70%, astonishing”, says Hugues, “we are lucky to be wine vinified in wood ending up in each cuvee with final assemblages that can include up to 6 vignerons. We can change our methods and the ranges from 15% on the brut réserve to 100% on vintages (including the base wine). Peter Liem vine just adapts to it. But because of the risks the single vineyard wines. writes that this is a “remarkably high percentage” involved in organic or biodynamic vineyard MALO, SULFUR: Until 2013, Hugues partially put his in non-vintage champagnes and that this gives manage ment, you have to really want it. It can’t wines through malo. Since last year he is fully non- Hugues’ wines “an added depth and complexity.” just be an opportunistic commitment or you will malo.
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