136 Proceedings of the Society, February 12, 1894

136 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, FEBRUARY 12, 1894.

II. NOTES ON A PAIR OF PAMPOOTIES, OR SHOES OF RAW HIDE, FROM ARAN MORE, GALWAY BAY. BY M. 3. G. MACKAY, LL.D., F.S.A. SOOT., SHERIFF OF FIFE AND KINBOSS. AND ON C(JARAN AND OTHER VARIETIES OF SHOES USED IN THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. BY ALEXANDER CARMICHAEL, COBR. MEM. S.A. SCOT.

I hav pleasure eth presentinf eo Societe th o gt ypaia f shoeo r s made of rough untanned hide, which I got last summer at Kilronan, in the islan f Arao d n More largese e threth ,th f eo t Aran Island n Galvrai s y Bay, where this kin f shoo d s stilei common i l n use. Thoug s usehit now only linger n remoti s n eancieni islandss wa t t i time, e mosth s t usual though not the only form of foot-gear worn by the Celtic natives of Irelan Scotlandd dan . St Columba, unless he went barefoot, probably wore a pair like them exils , hi t bot lona ed when i han ae cam h n o visi t et End S t a of e namAranTh e. Pampooties, evidently neither Celtir no c Teutonic s usei , n Arai d n I havonly d ean , been unabl traco t e t i e languagey toan commoe Th . n Celtic nam s Cuaran,ei Teutonie th d an c or Scottish nam Rivelins.s ei Martin, writing in 1703 of the Western Isles of Scotland,1 says:— " The shooes anciently wore, was a piece of the Hide of a Deer, Cow, or Horse, wit Haie , beinhth on r g tied behin beford an d e wit Poina h f o t

Leather. The Generality now wear shooes having one thin Sole onlys and shaped after the right and left Foot; so that what is for one Foot, will not serve the other." Similar shoes of untanned hide are still or have been recently worn in the Hebrides, as well as in Orkney -and Shetland and the Isle of Man. The Society possesses examples from Shetland presented by Mr Gilbert Goudie and Sir Arthur Mitchell illustratew ne e th df o 3 figures 35 i . whicf 7 (Nos.p o . t , da hNo 9) , 78 , e editioCatalogueth f e Nationalo nth f o Museum f Antiquitieso f o Scotland, to which the Members, as well as all persons interested in Scottish antiquities o mucs e har , indebtedablm a o shot e I w. a. . 207P 1 . NOTE PAMPOOTIESN O S SHOER O , EAF O SW7 13 HIDE.

specimen, similar though more finished in workmanship, made of white calf-skin, which came from Shetland, throug e kindnesth h f theio s r owner r AlexandeM , s rarhi r e o Carmichaelt knowledg e ow I f d eo an ; the habits and customs of the West Highlands, as well as of their languag literatured ean , valuable differen e noteth n so t varietie f Celtiso c shoes, printe close th thif t eo da s paper. f suco e h us shoes wels i e s lTh a ,t knownoriginallno s wa , y confined to the outlying Isles, which are in this small matter, as in others more important, natural museum oldef so r habits, customs speechd an , . Scot- land itself is a portion of an island whose northern and western High- lands were separated from its valleys and plains by mountain barriers, long more difficult to pass than those of the surrounding often narrow seass nativeIt . s retained longer than their English neighbours, through their povert d pride an ye habit th , f theio s r forefathers o thas s it , t antiquities have a special character and interest. It was from wearing shoes like these that our countrymen got the name from the English of Ked Shanks and of rough-footed Scots, and they did not disdain to use it of themselves. John Elder, who though a clerk calls himself a Bed Shank in a letter to Henry VIII. in 1543, containing a pro- posal for uniting Scotland with England, writes :1—"After that we have slayne red d beydd setting e an skyn deian , e th flay y w f rf o be eo e our hair foote on the insyde thereof, for neide of cunnyge shoemakers by your Graces pardon we play the sutters; compasinge and mesuringe so moche therof s shala r ancklers, ou l o retcht p , u epryckyng e th e upper part thereof also with holis, thae waterepay th t ma rs whet i n entres, and stretchide up with a stronge thwange of the same, meitand above our saide ancklers, so, and pleas your noble Grace, we make our shopis: Therefor e usingw , e such mane f shooiso r e roghth , e hairie syde outwart, in your Graces dominion of England, we be callit roghe footede Scottis; which maner of schoois (and pleas your Highnes) in Latyn e calleb e d perones, whereo e poeth f t Virgill makis mencioun, sayinge, Tha e oldth t e auncient Latyn n tymi s f warro e s uside suche mane f shoos.o r " Hector Boeces descriptiohi n i e ,poo th rf o ncontent e Scotcth f so h 1 Collectanea dc Rebus Albaniais, i>p. 29. and 30. 138. PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , FEBRUARY 12, 1894. camp at Stanhope Park, on the "Wear, which Douglas after his daring raid deserted n 1328i , mention e largth s e quantit f sucyo h shoes left. I quote Bellenden's translation.: — "Als gone as Inglismen wer advertist tha e Scottith tr departitwe s , thay come haistele placth eo t yquhar e thair tentis lay, in esperance of sume riche spulye ; and fand xv pair of Hieland schone, skatterit throw all boundis quhair the army of Scotland lay, qubilki r leftwe s behin e cariageth d s impedimena , t to thair ganging. The Inglismen belevit sic thingis .left to thair derisioun ; and returnit hame, but any proffet or honoure falling to thai e thimb s vayage. e wor r shoTh dfo " e use Boecy b d "s ei Pero, " which Gavin Douglas translates' " Eilling " in Virgil's lines in the 7th Book of the " Thare left bareas futd l tharan ewa , g ele Ane rouch rilling of raw hyde and of hare, The tothir fute oouerit wele and knyt." But English satirists turned the mock the other way, and it became a common-plac describo et e barbarianth e e Nortth f wearers o hsa f o s this roug d readan h y kin f shoeo d , which migh e madb t quicklo s e y and cast away wit littlo s h e loss. Thus Eobert do Brunne l writef so Edward I. : — " He salle the ken, our lond to bren, and werre bigynne Thou gete thingo sn , hot thi rivelyng, hano t inne. e gth " Minots poemhi n unluckilo i ,s 2 y composed before Bannockburn, wrote : — " Rughfute riveting ; now kindels thi care Bere-bag, wit i bostehth i biginth , bars gi e; Fals wretche and forsworn, in hides wiltow fare ; " and Skelton doggeres hi n ,i l line Floddenn so , speak"e roche-footeth f so d Scottis " from whom his countrymen " had taken their bottis." Eewylynys, Eowlingis, Eillings, Eulyions r Eulliono , s wer e Angloeth r Saxo r broao n d Scotch variant r thisfo s untanned sho f e hideo e Th . oldest form appears> to have been Eivelingas, which is translated in Archbishop Alfric's Anglo-Saxon Glossary of the 10th Century "Obstrir gilli," a Low Latin word for a sandal fastened to the foot by straps:

Hearties' ed., p. 282.. Minot's Poems, p. 7.

1 a NOTE PAMPOOTIESN O S SHOEK O , KAK O S9 W 13 HIDE.

Wyntounl mentions it as a sign of great distress that knights of Sir David de Strathbogie,. Earl of Athol, when pursued by the Earl of Murray to the Highlands, in 1335, were reduced to wear Kewelyns— " Of hydis or of hart hemmynys." The hemming was the piece of the hart's skin set apart for shoes, as in Sir Tristreni's Venery .-2— " Tristrem schare the brest e ton t nex pridTh ge sa th t e The heminges swithe on est He schar and layd hi side." Blind Harry use fore sth m Bewlingis Eivilid an , stils ni commoe th l n name earl th Shetlandn ei yn r vi o e forme presenc th f f Th e o s .th f eo word render doubtfu e etymologth l y from f somethini roll, s a g rolled round the foot. I am disposed to connect it rather with the old English word rivel, wrinkleo t Gowen i s a , r :— " Here cheki witn shbe teret swe ryvelid emptn a An s sa y sl\yn Hengande down unt chyn.e oth " M. DigbyS . , 230. Dunbar, in the Flyting, describes his rival Kennedy as still wearing Highlane th d garb— " Ersch Katherane, wit poly hth k breik rilling.d an , " shoA esame madth same f o eth materia en i way d an ,l thought no perhaps quite of the same shape, was well known to the Romans of the Empir wors s edeemea rusticsy wa b n d marda an ,f theio k r character, just as the English treated the Scottish Rivelin, though the Eoman satirist made a better use of it than the English. Its common name was " Pen," as in the passage already cited from Virgil, which preserves a record of the curious custom of wearing it on one foot only. Juvenal, when denouncing luxury in his 14th Satire by the mouth of Marsiad ol e th n warrior, make teacm s childrehi shi h n that "thn ma e who walks on the ice with long shoes of hide, and faces the east wind in skins turned inside out, will do nothing wrong. It is the purple that Chronicle, viii. 29, 1. 273 (1. 4421, Laing's ed.).

1 Sir Tristrem, Sc. Text Society's ed., 1. 474-8. 3 0 14 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH F O S , FEBKUAK , 189412 Y .

lead o crime.t se epithe Th " t " altus n thii " s passage appearo t s indicate a shoe more like a buskin, covering a part of the leg as well as the foot. " Nil vetitum,.fecisse volet, quern non pudet alto Per glaoiem perone tegi: qui submovet Euros Pellibus inversis. Peregrina ignotaque nobis Ad scelus atque nefas, qusecunque est, purpura ducit." Persius refers to the Peronatus Arator, and Sidonius Apollonaris, a

bisho poed e secon pf Gauan h century th o t 5t n i lde th hal ,f o speakf f so 1 the "Pero," in a form more like the Rivelin, as reaching only to the ankle: " Pedes perone setoso talos adusque vinciebantu r; genua , crura, suraque sine tegmine." This probably may be the explanation of the somewhat obscure descriptio e glossarth f no Isidoreo yt f Seville,o e liveo th n wh di 6th century, which describes the s "calceme a th i tibiati o qu t i p m(u shins) calceabantur. n Gordon'I " s Itinerarium Septentrionale paia f o r such shoe figuree sar d belongin collectioe th r Gilpino gt M f no , Recorder of Carlisle, which were found nea e wal th rf Hadrian. o l rudeA 2 r pair, in the collection of Sir John Clerk of Penicuik, are said to have been found near the wall of Antonine. Both these were probably worn not by Roman legionaries but by their British subjects. 'They are quite different from the military shoes (paligx), of which there is a specimen in Alnwicke th Castle Museum, r AndersoD 3 gooo s s d nwa a ? o point t ou t me, which were foun t Bremeniumda f whico r d BrachD an , e says many specimens have been found which " are always made right and left; the soles are double and are strongly studded with iron nails. The upper leathe caughs i r t betwee solese th n thona , gatheres gha uppee dth r part of the shoe together and bound it tightly round the foot." The Caligce, or militar ye Roma shoeth f o sn soldier, becam metaphoea r militarrfo y . service, as the Pero was for rural work. The Romans were too good masters of the art of war to neglect this elementary but essential part of the soldier!s kit, and these Caligce would .do credit to the best modern make f shootino r r fishingo g boots. Man ypooa r Trench soldier would have been glad of such a pair in the Franco-German "War. Some much more elaborate and ornate specimens of Roman shoes, found in the

'Lib. 4, Epist. 20. .... Plate 10, p. .9.6...... Catalogue, p. 152.

2 3 •NOTES ON PAMPOOTIES, OR SHOES OF RAW HIDE. 141

Thames r e Wright'figureM ar , n e e i Celt,de Saxon,th Th s th d an Roman.1 ] The single sole which was a necessary characteristic of the Cuaran or Bivelin long continued to be the form of sole used after the Highlanders d learnha o makt t Lowlane e brogueth th e d an ,d craf f cordinero t r so souter single-solee sth d ballae shooth f f "Thndo o e Souter f Selkirk,so " who use "e delshith n lingl birse.abld m a showean o e t I " , through tha• i kindnes r CarmichaelM f so paia , f roughly-tanneo r d single-soled shoes of country make from the Hebrides. About another pair of much more artistic style made quite recentl Balquhiddern yi r Yellowlees,M , - formerly Provos f Stirlingo t s writte interestinn ha a , e nm g letter. VICTORIA SQUABE, STIRLING, February 7, 1894. MY DEAR SHERIFF MACKAY,—The makin Highlanf go d " Brogues," although universal in the Scottish Highlands a century ago and for centuries previous,' e fashionabla los t refeth t t no f courso bu artt ro O l d . al I ee w shoino s e which goes by that name, and resembles the original brogue only in the cut of the uppers, with double and winged frpchans (toecaps), double quarters, and. vandyked edges. In Sinclair's Statistical Account (now nearly 100 years old) several parishe mentionee sar s havinda mano gs y brogue makero s d san many shoe makers. Thaservy o marma t e e timkth e whe e simplnth t ebu ingeniou formee th tastefu d f o sran t begae supersedear b l o more nt th ey b d complicate varied dan d stylelattere th f so . n Balquhidder,I Perthshire a ,famil f M'Uiarniidyo s have been first brogue and then shoe makers for generations. The present descendant, Duncan M'Diarmid, still possesses the art of broguemaker, and probably there is not doeo anothewithio s wh n nrma sigh Stirlinf o t g Castle. likels i s businesso hi tako y t wh p eu n so , o n Dunca s ha d gettins ni an d gol mak Bo asket O1 m paiea d hi f genuinro e Highland tha, brogueme t ther sfo y t intmighr locapu o ou e lb t museu f makino m t beforar g e sucth e h articles becomes quite extinct in our district. paie Thath I rhav s ti e borrowe nowu I askesenyo d . curatoe o dan t dth r weao t r week Museue w theth fe takmo a sn t i r em fo of bran-nee fth w appearance, and I see he has done so. You may remark about them— 1st. The uppers are of deer-skin, tanned and dressed, and the sole of light bullock's hide. The e brogueyar r housfo s e wear; thos r outdoofo e r wear svould be precisely the same for " make," but of thicker materials. . . - . 396-71Pp . 142 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, FEBRUARY 12, 1894.

•- 2nd. The sewee yar d wit ha singl e e laceancienTh . t broguemaket no d di r understan modere dsewinf th o t nar g with double rosin ends. 3rd. The sewing is entirely done with a leather lace both in the sole and upper parts. No hemp, lint, linen, or silk thread was used by Highlanders in. making their foot coverings. Indeed there was nothing besides the leather they made used for brogues except the wooden pins, which the craftsman made for himself (no l madwal Yankey eb e machiner d importeyan d from America) bucklee th heele d used th an , t san whic; da oftes hwa n ornatevaluablf o d ,an e metal. 4th. When I got the shoes from M'Diarmid a month or two ago he said these were " made precisel shoee e samth y th s a ePrinc e Charlie wore.f O " course I cannot certify this to be true, but probably it is so.—Yours sincerely, R. YELLOWLEES. It may be hoped that the art of brogue-making will not, as Mr Yellowlees fears, entirely die out. It would certainly be curious if the more ancient Cuaran survive Brogue,e Cuarae dth th d stills ni an , beyond doubt, made and worn by a considerable number of Irish and Scotch, islanders r ArthuSi . r Mitchell s wore Pasthi n theTh ki n i , Present, mentions, with referenc Scottise th o t e h Rivelin, " ther s probabli e o yn older or ruder form of shoe known. It appears in the tombs of Egypt, s inferioi d an n desigi r d executionan e Mocassi th Norte o th t n f ho n American Indian. Yet it happens that there are thousands of people in Scotland who wear this shoe at this hour. It is in most common use Shetlandn alss i i ot i frequentlt bu , yOrknee seeth Hebridean d ni yan n Islands t SandA . villaga , e quite near Lerwick scor a I , hav t f eo me e women wearin ge see b l ove theme al nShetlano t t th rthe e bu , ar y d Islands. I am certainly within the mark when I say that thousands of pairs coul t thida s momen purchasee b t n thadi t single county." This was written in 1880, since which it is probable that the use of these Scottise shoeth n si h Island diminisheds sha . e onlTh y safe conclusione th e drawf sb o than e nca us t froe mth sama simila r eo r kin f fooo d t coverin n ancieni g d moderan t n times over so wide a field are, that necessity and opportunity taught men of different race e samth s e primitive art, tha t necessaro s eve n i nd an y primitive an art as clothing the feet improvements often advance slowly, but once made it becomes certain they will ultimately prevail. We can still see the Bivelin worn by the Shetlanders and the Cuaran by the NOTES ON PAMPOOTIES, OR SHOES OF RAW HIDE. 143

Aran and Sfc Kilda islanders, but these survivals must before long disappear, as they have disappeared on the mainland. Yet it is curious mano s thisn n yi notici o t s othew a , eho r cases e pasd obsoletth , an t e custom leaves its mark in the present use, as if in small as well as great thing e continuitth s f historo y y mus e preserveb t y symbolsb d , even whee chaie linkth th nf n so disappear holee Th s. pierce uppee th n rdi Cuarane parth f o t descende e vandykee brogue,th th o d t d an d fraochan or toe-cap of the brogue may still be noticed in our 19th century boots and shoes. DEAR SHERIFF MACKAY,—remembew no t no ro d whaI I tsai shoen do s e discussioth n i n following your paper befor e Societth e f Antiquariesyo I . will, however t dowjo , n what . occurme o st If meagre and unsatisfactory in modern science and art, Gaelic is copious and descriptiv naturan i e arte scienced lth s an objectsn i d sol d knowe an , th o t n people e followinTh . g name r shoefo s s will show thae peoplth o t wh e originated them were accurate observers. I wish I had time to extend the list, and to avail myself more of the privilege whic havu hyo e accorde writinn i e dm g these notes.—Yours very faithfully, ALEXANDER OARMICHAEL. 1 ST BERNARD Kow, EDINBURGH, 22nd June 1894. Bachaill, brachaill, sprachaill.—These forms are used in different localities, and mean shoes shoesd ol , , shapeless shoes. Lismorn i n t somma me ed e ol friendn A s with who remainede mh . When lie cam ef grea o hom n wifs t hi ema e a reprover drinkings fo wa m e hi dH . honesty and simplicity of character, and replied—"An ta gu dearbh air m' fhalluinn fhein a Mhor, , na'n robh agams a bhachald a l bhroige dh-fhai m g nochd fhein thu—ch fheirinn a' oichn nao e eile leat." " verity a Indeed f o d , an , by mine own mantle, Marion, if I had two bachalls of shoes, I would leave thee this very night I ,woul t remaino d n another night wito htw thee.e Th " old people were so touchingly attached to one another that they could not live apart even for a few hours. Brog.—Shoe; sock, socket; busk, busket, buskin. Brogeneria s gi c term for socket, or that which resembles a socket, as brog crainn, the socket of the mast e ste th ,whic n pi e masa boa hth f o t stands. Brog na cuthaig, shof eo the cuckoo, the blue violet. Brogach, brog-eich, horseshoe ; and brog an eich, horsee shoth f eo , coltsfoot, tussilago better-knowe Th . n nam gallan,s ei while brogach, brog an eich is applied, and more correctly, to the leaf of the white water-lily Nymphxa alba. Brog bioraich, coltsfoot; brog searraich, foalsfoot, 4 14 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH F O S , FEBRUAR , 189412 Y .

are applied to the leaf- of,this beautiful lily, which covers the face of s.ome of Wester e lakee th th n si n Isles. Brogan daimsaidh.—Dancing shoes, pumps. Brogan duaisean, brogan cluaiseanach.—Eared shoes, shoes.with flaps akin, e "Lomtoth e shoes." Brogan duaisean, eared shoes e mentionear , d ol n i d Gaelic songs, and, among others followine th n i , g verse :— '' Troidh chuimi broim a r g cluaisean 'S gach gruagach ort an geall." "A shapely foot in an eared shoe And every maide lovn ni e with thee." Brogan duaisean.—Eared shoes were specially adapte r bucklesdfo , though some preferred laichets. Duncan Ban Macintyre says— bucalm "A l a' dunad bror ha g 'Seam barr-ial bhoichu lb e leinn." buckle "Th e fastenin shoer gou s The latchet were prettier to us." In the burlesque of "Biodag air Mac-Thomais," the satirist says— " Tha bucallan na blirogan ' 'S gur math gum foghnadh iall da." " Ther buckle e shoes ear hi sn si When well the whang might do him." Brog eill.—A shoe stitched together with leather cord instead of with hemp bese cordTh t .cor r thidfo s purpos s obtaineewa d from 'th alses sealowa s ,a the .best leather for shoes, horse-harness, ropes, and other purposes. Hence the seal is spoken of among the Isles as ran eill, ran eilleach, thong seal, thonge de tersealTh m . occur n mansi y songs, among othera n i s beautiful song compose a daughte y db f Macleoo r f Harrir husbano d he o t s d Macneil Barraf lo , from estranged s whowa e msh . namhaiu t u "B d a' Chatham Thi adhar gai r a' seoladh Agus namh an Eoin eillich Thigo sgeirean a mhor-chuain." "foe Tho eth Bernicle ot fth uar e [goose] Tha sailingr ai t comee th , n si thongee th f o e d fo Sea e th l d An That comes from the great ocean skerries." Brogan Gaidhealach.—Highland shoes, knowe tradth s "brogues.o ea t n " Shooting imitatioshoen i e sar thesef no . Brogan ctrd.—High shoes. The toes of these high shoes, turned up as high NOTE PAMPOOTIESN O S 5 14 HIDEW SHOER RA O ., F O S

e ankleath s , sometime e middloccasionall lege d higs th sth a an , s f ha o e s ya high as the knee. They were held up by cords or chains fastened to the waist musd an , t have been grotesqueinconvenienty sa o t t no , . These high shoes were wor statn t Courtno a ed occasionsan , Middle th n i , e Ages resembled an , d thos mandariny eb worw nno othed an s r state-officern si China. e broganTh . ard, high shoes e mentionear , e Mackintosth n i d h Lament, Islane th recovere n Barraf i dbereavee o e Th m . y db d maiden wife says— " 'S tu dhannsadh gu comhnard, D'uair sheinneadhte ceol duit ; 'S ch afeoirnea m luba u at n Fo shroin do bhrog arda." " It is thou that wouldst dance rhythmically "Whe tbeo playes nt ewa musice dth , Nor wouldst thou bend the grass-blade Beneath the point of thy high shoes." Brogan direach.—Straight e shoesstraighTh . t shoes wer alternatn o e e feet on alternate days. They were common in the Lowlands as well as in the Highlands, and down to recent times. Lord Cockbum mentions them in his Life and Times, and says that he wore them when he attended the High School of Edinburgh. Brogan cama, coma bhrogan.—Shaped shoes. These were shapee th o t d reverse straighe th feetth d f eo an , t shoes. The preternaturally wise Islay child—An Leanabh Ileach—was asked what kind of shoes he would like. He replied— " Brogan bileach, baileach, barr, A druim leathar nan aighean, A tarr leathar nam ba, Gearra-bhoinn a mnigh Farra-bhoinn a staigh Bailt chaol, chroma-dhireach, NVn sineadh eadar-riu sin Buaudas brog inhic airein Eireachdas brog mhic righ D' uair a bhuaileadh ise chlach Gam bu mheas dha'n chlach na dlii." '' Shoes edgy, complete, surpassing, Froheifere hide e bacth m th f th e f o k ,o ; w co Fro e hidrume e th m th th f eo f po Short soles without, Soft soles within; VOL. XXVIII. " K 146 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, FEBEUAKY 12, 1894.

Welt slender, even-curved, Stretched down between these. The lastingness of the shoe of the son of the ploughman, The beauteousness of the shoe of the son of the king. When it should strike against a stone That wors stone e th shoul eo t thae db it.o nt " , Gaiseart.—Shoes, kindy shoean f s.o Literally, foot furnishing; from cas, foot, and heart, furnishing. Cuaran.—Sock, socket, busk, busket, buskin, an envelope, a cover; from cuar, covera . cuarane Th cover e solesth , toe ,t alwayheel no sidesd t e inste,an sth bu , p laceds i foot e t oI th f ,. sometimes fancifully interlaced, ove instepe th r . The cuaranis generally made of raw hide, preferably warm from the animal, hide th e being then pliabled sofan teasil d an , y adaptehide foote Th eth . o dt over the knee was much sought after for cuarans, especially that over the houghfooe heee th tf Th o fittel . d int holloe kneee oth th f wo , especially into hollo e houghe th th f wo , whil frictioe th e whico nt e kneehth s were subjected in the lying down and the rising up of the animal rendered the skin of the knees peculiarly tough and durable. The cuaran, like the mogais, is made of raw hide, the hair side out, the flesh t Kild S mad s i n I t abirf i esido d. ein skin dowe feather,th d bire nan th d f so being nexcuaran e foote e HighlandTh th tth .f o pampootie e th s si f Irelando * reveline th d Shetlandf o an . The cuaran is mentioned in the songs and proverbs of the people, as— " D'uair bha mi ris a' bhuachailleachd, Cha'n fhaighinn ach na cuaranah ; 'Se thu brogaa gn n uallach domh Mi 'shuathadh ris a' champa." " While I was herding, I would only get the cuarans ; What got me the dainty shoes Wa joininy sm camp.e gth " "Feumaidh fear nan cuaran Eirigh uair romh fheabrog.m na r " euaranse th f o n "Musma e th t shoes.e Risth houf n eo a "n r beforma e th e The accepted interpretation of this doubtful proverb is that, as the wearer of cuarans had more lacing to do, he had to begin earlier than the wearer of shoes, whlesd osha lacin. do o gt Probably, however, the meaning is more philosophical and far-reaching than NOTE PAMPOOTIESN O S SHOER O , F RAO S7 W 14 HIDE.

this, implying that the poor man of the cuarans had to rise earlier than the shoese th f o . ricn hma " He that would thrive must rise by five, He that has thriven may lie till seven." Another proverb would see suppormo t t this interpretation— brogacm "A h beag cuaranaon a , h nior." '' The shoey little, the cuarany big." Shoes were expensive, and he who indulged in them young was under the necessity when old to be content with cuarans. Down to recent times, many children in the Highlands wore no shoes, or foot-gear of any kind. Even grown-up lada went about without shoes, often without bonnets—ceann-ruisgte, cas-ruisyte—head-bare, foot-bare. Many old men in my time wore no foot-gear except on Sunday, feast day, or some other gala day. I have ofte womed n Oute e an seeth n n ri me Isleworkin d sol t theiga r crofts barefooted, bareheaded. Their neighbours thought non e lesf th eo s I kne . wI d thathedi this r r tm thifo no , s arose partly from habi partld tan y from a frugal desire to "owe no man anything," and that no head-gear or foot- gear could add to the native courtesy of mind or to the native kindliness of heart within thesn O e. occasions deprecatiny m n o , apologiey gan r theifo s r appearance people th , e would reply— " Ge nach duin t-aodachn ea , Cha duine duin aonais.s ea " " Though the clothing is not the man, withoun ma a t it.no "s i n ma e Th A messenger came to Tongue House from Dunrobin Castle, and being a messenger of consequence, he placed his cuarans on the dresser. The cook was indignant t lik bu ,ewis a e woman hel r counseldhe .aske n Wher ma d fo e nth cuaranss hi resumo t returs ehi n journey, with characteristic privileg cooe eth k likee breakfasts h dhi w ho aske m .d hi " I never enjoyed breakfast better," replied the man. " Then," said the cook, "you have the satisfaction of know- thacarrg u in tyo y your cuarans inside t outsidno , thiu se yo neve d timeAn r. you again take upon yourself to place your upstart Gower cuarans on the dresse gentlf o r e folks." Captain Burt, in his Letters from the North (Letter 22), thus refers to the Cuarans, r "o Quarants, terme h s "a s them :—Short Stocking Broguesd an s r o pumps without Heels. By the way, they cut holes in their brogues, though new made, to let out the water, when they have so far to go and rivers to pass ; thi spreservo t the o yd e their feet from galling...... Som I ehav e seen 8 14 PEOCEEDINC SOCIETYE TH F O S , FEBRUAR , 189412 Y ' .

shod with a kind of pumps made out of a raw cowhide, with the hair turned "outward, which being ill made, the wearers' feet looked something like those of a rough-footed hen or pigeon. These are called Qiutrants, and are not only offensive to the sight but intolerable to the smell of those who are near them." Logais, logaisean.—Shoes, d shoesol , splayed shoes ,y kindshoean f ,o s feet, human feet, animal feet; hencWhite th leae f eth o e f Water-lil calles yi d logais, fro resemblancs mit rounde th o et , beautifu name lfoale hooth Th f .e o f sond Skyf ol occurg o n a e n callesi roghaindo "M nrun.o 'sm " "La dhomh "s mi siubhal nam fnar-bheann Thachair a' ghruagach og orm Mo roghainn ru no 'sm A. chunnde n ' i am Bha i fodha gu da chruachainn 'S i ri buain nan logaisean J Mo roghaiun 's mo run A chunn i 'na m de." whey da nwaI " A s travellin mountaine gth s youna t me g I maiden fai seeo t r , My choice and nay love Who yestreenw sa m I . She waa immersed to her two hips, And she pulling the water-lilies, M ylov y choicm e d ean Whom I saw yestreen." Mr John Whyte informs me that an old woman from Islay told him that she was present at the birth of a child, when she and those in charge on the occasion continue severar dfo l night buro st n logaisean, shoesd ol keeo ,t p away the fairy folks! On these occasions the doors, windows, and crevices are closed, nothing being lefegrese farlos,roofe ridge e th t e r th th th smokopef s th f o fo ,t e n o i d n bu ean ingres lightf e smelso Th f burnin. o l g leather fillin housee g th escapin d an , g throug farlose hth , keep faire sth y folks from enterin spiritind gan g away either mothe r childo r . Iron pinspiked san drive e sar n int groune oth wald dan l round the mother and child, to safeguard them till the baptism of the one and e purificatioth e otherth f o n. Whe e chil nth mothed dan r have gone under hande e pearsth th f so eaglais, persona ecclesia, pine thee th e safesar d yar an , removed. There is no increase on the women of fairyland, hence the desire to spirit away children, and mothers to nurse them. -Innumerable stories, in prose and 1 Sometimes logairean. .NOTES ON PAMPOOTIES, OR SHOES OF KAW HIDE. 149 rhyme, graphic and realistic, are told throughout the Highlands and Islands of newly-born parturienf babeo d san t women carried e bruthainnawath o yt shith sithichean,n na underground bower fairiese th f so . Mogais, plural mogaisean (Anglicised, moggins, r muggins,o moggasheens,r o muggasheens).—Shoes, ankle-shoes, shoes coming up the calf of the leg. It is singular tha n namei n appearanceti s a , e mogaiseanth , e Highlanderth f o s should be identical with the moccasins of the Red Indians. Possibly the writer who introduce e foot-geaname th de th Indianf th o ea Highlander f s o r swa , accustomed to the name of the similar foot-gear of his countrymen. Mogais hold same sth e relatio theno t . cuaran, tha booe th t tshoee doeth o .st The word is from mog, a husk, a sheath, a cylinder, and occurs in various forms, as mogal peasair, peas husk; mogul ponair, bean husk ; mogan, a footless stocking ; mogan Itrigis, leg of a trouser. Slaopag.— d shapelesThisol n tera r sm fo shoe foune b o n t ,i d whic t no s hi Dictionaries of Modern Gaelic, occurs in the following lullaby, which I got at Bunawe, along with several other archaic words. " Dean an cadal gaolach ; Mo ehaomhan thu 's mo chamh. ghrado m u ht ; r gu ! Hio r !! rio h ! bratu g hu ! Hit a !r hiur !gu o abh Chuirinn erod r bhuailhai e dhut, 'S an cuallach bhi air each. Hi! ri ! ho ! ro ! Chuirinn spreidh air ghliimibh dhut 'Us greid r bhitmibhai h ard. Hi! ri ! ho ! ro ! Chuirinn bog r ghleuhai s dhut 'Us saighead beur na dhail. Hi! ri! ho ! ro ! Mar sid us cuspair aithriseach 'Us claidhe geur da-lainih. Hi ! ri! ho ! ro ! 'S chuirinn fir air faiehe dhut Air aisir lunis-ail ! Hi! ri ! ho ! ro ! Ach fair a nail domh slaopag, 'S gun caobaimi Domhull Ban ! "! o r ! o h Hi! i r ! " Do thou the sleep so lovely, My prattlerbelovey m d dan . Hi ! ri! ho ! ro ! them art my darling; Hi ! hiura bo ! thou art for ever. 150 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, FEBRUARY 12, 1891.

I would place cattle upo meae ntlieeth r dfo , And their tending upon others. I would place flocks upon the glens for thee And herds upo mountaine nth s high. I would place a bow in trim for thee And a piercing arrow close beside. Likewise a well responsive target And a sharp two-handled sword. And I would place men ou the plain for thee Pase I Innishainf th so ! l But bring to me a slaopag Til I punisl h Donald Bane [fair]! "