GPS EDWIN- Ladakh 2018

Ladakh, Tread lightly lest you hurt the fragile landscape of Ladakh but do go nevertheless to witness the majesty of the region and its humble people. While environmental conditions make it one of the most inhospitable regions on the planet, with certain health precautions and a lot of faith, Ladakh is a lesson in treating oneself and the land with respect. Be prepared to let a land like Ladakh sweep you off your feet. You will be back for more. no other by Jose Kunnappally

Sand dunes, a sought-after tourist spot in Nubra

stances under which tourism is carried out, are very accountable for an exceptional guest experience.” Pangong reasonable. When plans go awry, only local travel The Leh airport where we landed around noon Lake trade can ensure rescheduling without a cancellation when the mercury was at 13 degrees Celsius is fee. operated by Ministry of Defence and so photography Ladakh has about 300 hotel rooms in Leh and is strictly prohibited. Ladakh is one of the most mil- another 300 are being added in 2019. Occupancy itarised areas in India owing to close proximity with during season is 80-90 per cent. Nubra Valley and hostile neighbours. Yet the biggest pillar of strength Pangong Lake, two very popular sites which tourists for the tourism industry and economy in general to Ladakh visit have a small inventory of rooms, in Ladakh is the Indian Army. The best wayside mostly camps. Ladakh is 100 per cent safe even for amenities in Ladakh while travelling by road to Nubra women travellers. and Pangong are built and managed by the defence “We want quality tourism,” says Tsetan Angchuk, “Travel agents and tour forces. I was shocked to see open pit toilets else- President, All Ladakh Tour Operator Association operators promoting where after paying Rs. 10. I wonder how women and (ALTOA). “Visitors to Ladakh have to promote sus- children would manage. The 90 million toilets built tainability and enjoy this destination by taking travel Ladakh and initiatives like by our Prime Minister do not seem to have made had heard so much about Ladakh. Many friends have precautions and respecting local sensibilities. Our their way to Ladakh! “Sustainability is the focus and travelled there and posted mesmerising pictures of carrying capacity is low and ecosystem fragile, so we GPS-EDWIN are delivering main conversation now,” assures Dorje. “The travel the landscape in all its splendour. Not many places cannot engage in mass tourism. Every travel agent a national duty. You are trade has tied up with NGOs and in the next two on Earth can offerI such diversity in topography – selling Ladakh has to keep these in mind.” years you will see excellent wayside amenities.” snow clad mountains, rocky terrain, desert, plateaux, Tourism started in the region in 1975 when there providing our people We stayed at Indus Valley, the newest boutique grasslands, lowlands, rivers and lakes. It has been on were no hotels; only homestays. Last year, about hotel in Leh with central heating, exceptionally my bucket list for a very long time and so when the 2,80,000 tourists visited Ladakh of which about bread and butter” well-appointed rooms, and just a short walk away opportunity presented itself, courtesy Global Panora- 50,000 were foreign nationals. Most of them travel Nawang Rigzin Jora from the main market. After lunch and sufficient ma Showcase – Educational Destination Workshop in May-June when the temperature is not extreme. MLA, Ladakh and former Tourism Minister, J&K rest which is very important especially on day 1, International (GPS-EDWIN), I was more than ready to Adventure tourists plan during the winter when we visited Shanti Stupa, one of the most popular pack my bags. activities like glacier walks are possible. Most of the tourist sites, facing the Ladakh Palace and offering Ladakh is one of the most inhospitable tourist hotels in Ladakh operate only from May to Octo- panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The destinations in the world. At an altitude of 11,380 ft. ber and are closed for the remaining six months. jeep safari and culture tours,” says Tundup Dorje, Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its above mean sea level, travellers need to take a host Imagine, during winter, a hotel will have to deliver hot owner of Overland Escape, the biggest DMC in the base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. We watched of precautions to enjoy their visit to this place. There water individually to room guests as the water in the region. “Now we are looking at how to extend domes- the sunset from here and it offers ample scope for are many daily flights from Delhi to Leh’s Kushok pipes freeze! The camps in Nubra and Pangong do tic season till September-October, so overcrowding selfies. Dinner was finished early at Grand Himalaya, Bakula Rimpochee Airport. Road routes from Manali not have central heating. While camps in Nubra have can be avoided. We are trying to promote Ladakh a museum hotel with lots of trinkets on display. and Srinagar are also popular. room heaters, the ones in Pangong do not have it. in key markets for winter trekking, biking, rafting, Former J&K tourism minister and sitting MLA Holidays in Ladakh come with its own set of Guests in Pangong rely on hot water bags and extra mountaineering and other adventure activities of Ladakh, Nawang Rigzin Jora has been a great unpredictability. The weather can play spoilsport any blankets to beat the cold at night! Electricity is shut among young tourists especially millennials.” supporter of tourism to Ladakh. Aamir Khan-starrer time. A traveller’s health can give in too without no- down during the night in Nubra, Pangong and many GPS’ EDWIN is a unique learning initiative to build tice. So it is best to book though a travel agent/tour other places as most hotels rely on solar energy. This destination awareness among travel trade, helping operator in Ladakh. The local travel trade community, is tourism and hospitality minus the frills of a ‘5-star’ them sell better and ensure worthwhile experiences down to the cabbie and tour guide, works in perfect but trust me, it’s totally worth it. for their guests. Says Harmandeep Singh Anand, MD, unity and offers standard rates. There is no under- Making Ladakh a year round destination requires GPS, “EDWIN helps travel agents and tour operators cutting, so do not waste time negotiating. The rates, a lot more planning, investment and infrastruc- become destination specialists who value sustain- considering the destination and the unique circum- ture. “Most domestic tourists come in May-June for able and responsible tourism, and hold themselves

(Clockwise from top) Gurudwara Sri Pathar Sahib; Scroll of Fame is also the world’s highest rafting point. Again, we The road to 3 Idiots was shot in his constituency when he was at Indian Army’s Hall of Khardungla Pass presiding over tourism. “It was my good fortune,” were here as the sun was going down and the setting Fame Museum; Indus says Jora. During his time as minister he secured turned surreal. On our return from Sangam, we visit- Valley Hotel Leh; Indian funding from Government of India for many projects ed Magnetic Hill, Gurudwara Sri Pathar Sahib and the Army’s Hall of Fame in Leh with impact on tourism. He also revised the Indian Army’s Hall of Fame Museum. Museum list of areas which are eligible for subsidy. “Now in The Magnetic Hill on the Leh-Kargil-Baltic Na- the entire district, whoever wants to start a guest tional Highway teases you with its gravity-defying house or hotel gets the subsidy of Rs. 30 lakhs,” says phenomenon. Park within the area marked in yellow the current MLA. “Tourism is the main pillar of Lada- on the road and witness the vehicle being pulled by kh’s economy offering a means of livelihood for our an invisible force! Inner Line Permit people. Travel agents and tour operators promoting Gurudwara Sri Pathar Sahib was our next stop. Inner Line Permit is Ladakh and initiatives like GPS-EDWIN are deliv- Everyone, especially tourists on bikes, pay a visit to required in Leh-Ladakh to ering a national duty. You are providing our people the Gurudwara built, maintained and managed by the visit restricted areas like bread and butter.” Indian Army. The walls are adorned with thanksgiv- Pangong, Nubra and a few The recent J&K focus of Union Ministry of Tour- ing messages cast in stone after successful opera- others. The permit per se ism (MoT) has not resulted in any gains for Ladakh. tions by the various units of the armed forces and is free but every visitor “No traveller has come to Ladakh because of any- police. The tea and snacks offered complimentarily has to pay Environment thing J&K Tourism or MoT did,” says Kamlesh Lalan after the visit is simply yummy. There is decent toilet Fee Rs. 400; Wildlife Fee of Ravine Trek, a Mumbai-based firm specialising in facility too. Rs. 20 per person per day; tours to the region. “Ladakh has grown due to word The Hall of Fame is a must-visit for every tourist Rs. 100 for Red Cross So- of mouth. J&K Tourism has only been interested in to Ladakh and my favourite discovery on this trip. ciety and nominal service promoting Kashmir. Unlike Kashmir, Ladakh has been They maintain the ‘Amar Jyothi’ and perform ‘Beat- charge for the travel agent peaceful so tourism grew organically.” ing the Retreat’ every day. The museum has a lot of managing the paper work. This junket was with over 100 travel trade part- interesting information on military award winners Scandinavian mountains told me in no uncertain So approx. Rs. 700 per ners from around India (57 cities and 16 states, to be from the region, successful operations, a souvenir terms that Ladakh is even more beautiful and pris- person. precise) and the B2B session arranged on day 2 at shop (selling dry fruits, fridge magnets and shawls) tine. Grand Dragon Hotel in Leh allowed them to meet and and the Aroma Café. The Light and Sound Show We checked in to Nubra Organic Retreat, a quaint Other short trips discuss business with 30 local suppliers operating held daily to packed audiences will make any Indian property comprising 20 Swiss deluxe tents with from Leh across the region – hoteliers, tour operators, DMCs, proud. The ‘Scroll of Fame’ is an adjoining area where attached bathroom, each offering a grand view of the  Kargil (Drass Village is cab operators and adventure tourism specialists. the names of hundreds of soldiers who have fought snow clad Himalayan peaks. Add to that an organ- the second coldest in The ball room where the B2B session was held is in the region and lost their lives in service of our na- ic vegetable garden and fruit orchard for bringing the world): 182 km the only meeting space of its size and the biggest in tion are cast in stone as an everlasting tribute. Open excellent fare on to the dining table.  MoonLand, Lamayuru: Leh. “Ladakh can only take small MICE events but the from 9 am to 6 pm, there is a nominal entry fee and Just 10 minutes away is Sandunes, a sought-after 118 km backdrop and experience it can offer are unmatched,” photography/videography is allowed. tourist spot where one can ride the Bactrian camel.  Tso Moriri Lake: 125 affirms Harmandeep of GPS. On day 3, our final destination was Nubra. Two "EDWIN helps travel It is a highly endangered sub-species and known by km During the second half, the group visited Sangam, hours from Leh is Kardungla Pass, the highest mo- the double hump on its back. This was one of the  Changtang Wildlife located on National Highway 1 to Srinagar. Watching torable road in the world and another two hours from agents and tour operators most crowded sites on our entire journey. Camel Sanctuary: 76 km the confluence of the muddy Zanskar waters with there is Nubra. The two options available on hire for become destination safaris can be undertaken for 15, 30 and 60 minutes  Zanskar Valley: 119 km the bluish-green Indus is so breathtaking. Sangam road travel are the Toyota Innova and the 15-seater and costs Rs. 600 for an hour. specialists who value Back at the retreat, we had a quiet campfire to sustainable and beat the cold before we finished an early dinner and retired to our tents. responsible tourism" While basic medical facilities are available across Ladakh, medical evacuation (air lifting) is only pos- Harmandeep Singh Anand sible from Leh. If you drink like a fish and / or smoke MD, GPS like a chimney, Ladakh most likely will make you pay for your bad behaviour. You can experience and Recommended enjoy Ladakh whether you have diabetes, asthma, Travel Tips a heart ailment or high BP as long as you take the Tempo Traveller. The roads are winding and treach- necessary precautions (see box on travel tips) and Best Period to visit erous, and there are no safety railings along the way respect your body. Ladakh is a prayer. Don’t make it Ladakh: April – October so I would insist self-driving only for those who are a penance. Many people think it’s not easy with kids  Via Srinagar Route: really good at the wheel. Having driven comfortably but little ones generally have better tolerance for high May – November to any hill station in India is no befitting experience altitude. Three of my co-travellers had to return from  Via Manali Route: June certificate to drive in Ladakh. Calling Ladakh a hill Nubra and miss Pangong, because of poor health and – September station is an insult. It’s like calling McLaren a car! you know why.  Via Zangskar Route: A proper road to Kardungla is under construction On World Tourism Day (day 4) we checked out June – December by the Indian Army. What we travelled on is a mud from Nubra Organic Retreat to travel to Pangong,  Opening/Operating of road scooped out of ice! The landscape is awe-in- the place made famous by 3 Idiots. Before leaving, above routes depend spiring and majestic. Mobile phone memory is simply we plucked a lot of apples from the organic orchard on weather condition insufficient to capture it all. Co-travellers who have at our resort and believe me apples haven’t tasted so of high pass visited the Canadian Rockies, Switzerland and the good. They are smaller than what we see in our su-  There is no off season

Photo courtesy Conduct, Attire and Hiten Sanghvi, Grooming National Studio, Nagpur  Avoid revealing attire and be modest in dressing; do not expose body to cold climate  Female traveller: No open hair, short skirts or revealing dresses Things to Carry allowed at gompa or  Woollen clothing any religious places (Gloves, Cap, Socks,  Male travellers: Sweater) / Muffler / No short pants or Shawl / Scarf sleeveless shirts  Inner clothing allowed at gompa or (Thermal wear any religious places recommended) / Sun  Avoid public smoking Hat or Cap  Ladakh is litter-free. Do  Light weight wind not throw garbage or stopper jacket & base any kind of dirt on the (Recommended) road or at passes  Sun Glasses with UV  Avoid loud talk during Protection (Highly visit to religious places, recommended) local homes or in  Sun Screen Lotion public places with min SPF 40/50  Please do not address & Cold Cream (Highly any locals as Pakistani, recommended) Chinese, Chinki, Bihari  Sandals / Slippers and or Nepali, as this will Proper Shoes (Avoid hurt their sentiments leather shoes)  Hand Towels / Do’s and Don’ts Dry Fit Towels  On landing in Leh, (Recommended) relax for first 24  Cotton / Cargo hours. Do not rush into Clothing for day physical activities or journey stay awake  Backpack for day  Do not take bath on journey day of arrival  Dry Fruits / Energy  Avoid smoking and Bars consuming alcohol  Personal toiletries  Drink water  For senior citizens – throughout the day to adult diapers remain hydrated  For female travellers –  Do not hold urine; sanitary napkins stop by at a wayside amenity centre Recommended  Do not suffocate Medicines: Please yourself at night by (Clockwise from top) consult a physician wearing multiple layers ‘Beating the Retreat’ at  Avomine – Vomiting of clothing, during time Indian Army’s Hall of  D’Cold – Common Cold of sleep Fame Museum; Shanti  Combiflam – Body  Ensure your feet are Stupa; Nubra river; (Clockwise from top) Pain always covered GPS-EDWIN delegates Thiksey Monastery; Maitreya  Vicks Vaporub or  While returning from after B2B Meet; Tundup statue at Thiksey Monastery; Inhaler – Nose Block / Dorje, Gulam Mustafa, Leh, usual cabin desert terrain; treacherous roads; Cold MD, The Grand Dragon baggage of 7 kg is Souvenir photo: Kamlesh Lalan,  Iodex Pan Relief Balm Ladakh, Tsetan Angchuk not permitted due to Harmandeep Singh Anand, Tundup / Volini Spray – Sprain and Harmandeep Singh Dorje, executive directors of J&K security protocol.  Diamox – High Anand inaugurate GPS, Tanushka Kaur Anand and However, you can Altitude Sickness B2B Meet; Camp at Sobinder Singh Kohli, and Jose check in extra 7 kg Nubra Organic Retreat; Kunnappally; Apple orchard at  Saridon – Headache along with the usual 15 Himalayan Marmot Nubra Organic Retreat; Pangong  Glucon D / Electral kg allowed Resort and Camp Powder & Camphor

Sangam, the world’s highest rafting point freshen up. “If you can survive the night in Pangong paintings and swords. One of the main points of then you are born tough,” says Lalan of Ravine Trek. interest is the Maitreya Temple installed to com- Post lunch and some rest, we went down to memorate the visit of the 14th Dalai Lama to this the lake. Props from the iconic film set have been monastery in 1970; it contains a 15 m high statue of recreated for photo opportunities and most tourists Maitreya, the largest such statue in Ladakh, cover- indulge in them. It is quite windy and how long one ing two stories of the building. can stay by the lake depends on how windy it is on We also visited Rancho’s Druk White Lotus a particular day. Pangong is a salt water lake – 75 School, Shay, Ladakh. This school became famous per cent in China; 25 per cent in India. During winter after the film. On arrival here you will be taken inside “Tourism in when the mercury drops to -40 degree Celsius, ice the campus for a guided tour. The school was dam- skating and camping are possible on the lake. aged by floods in 2010. The 3 Idiots wall is the most Ladakh has Sunrise at Pangong Lake is to die for. There is popular spot for selfies. There is a café and souvenir nothing more beautiful than this anywhere in India, shop too. grown due to and maybe hardly anywhere else in the world. At The last activity on our itinerary was shopping in word of mouth. 5:30 am, we walked down to the lake, yes, it will be Leh main market which we did after we checked back very cold and windy, and watched the first rays of in to Indus Valley hotel for the night before our flight Unlike Kashmir, the sun illuminate the rugged mountain ranges. It is back to Delhi next day morning. Since there is no totally worth it. You can also witness this from your parking in the market area, we got dropped off. With Ladakh has sit out at the tent if you do not wish to brave the many lanes and by-lanes, all of which have small been peaceful, sub-zero temperature. shops selling a variety of products, one can find After breakfast we commenced our return journey everything like dry fruits, woollen wear, handicrafts, so tourism grew Identity Proof to Leh. On the way we stopped by to say hi to the jewellery, carpets, shawls and souvenirs. The Tibetan organically”  Indian national: Always Himalayan Marmot which comes out during summer Refugee Market set up here sells locks with unique carry a photo identity and hibernates in winter. We passed through Tsoltak carvings and artefacts. While prices are negotiable, Kamlesh Lalan, card with address where there are avalanche alert boards and the roads not many places accept credit cards. Founder, Ravine Trek proof along with you become difficult. As the aeroplane started gaining altitude, I for security purpose We touched Changla Pass, the second highest thought about the last five days. You leave behind a (Passport / Aadhaar available only at the front desk and in all probability motorable road in the world, then Karu village part of you so you can come back to Ladakh to re- Card / Election Card) may not always work. In Pangong, there is no hotel where I bought a Kit Kat on MRP (Ladakhis are so claim it. Ladakh awaits you – now and then. A desti-  Foreign national: Wi-Fi or mobile connectivity. On the lake, there are righteous; even if they can sell for a premium, they nation that can make you a romantic and you cannot Please carry your two Fixed Wireless Phone (FWP) connections at will not) and arrived at the Thiksey Monastery. blame it. Contemplative. Proud. Creative. Humble. passport along with the shacks, and one can make an STD call for Rs. 5 The monastery is located in the Indus Valley. It is a Lazy. Grateful. Rejuvenated. Not many places on valid visa, and few per minute. But the FWP set has to be carried to a twelve-story complex and houses many items of Earth can offer so much. You succumb to its charm. The author was hosted photocopies of pass- particular spot on the lake side where the calls go Buddhist art such as stupas, statues, thangkas, wall Willingly. A land truly like no other. by Global Panorama port and visa through! It is both a blessing and a pain depending on Showcase (GPS) how well you had prepared for this trip. I had not and Heating faced a tough time delivering work assignments.  Only few hotels in Leh Enroute to Pangong we stopped by the 32 m have central heating "Most domestic tourists statue of Maitreya Buddha (Future Buddha) facing facility come in May-June for jeep down the Shyok River towards Pakistan. There is a  No heater will be small prayer room on the first floor, inaugurated by provided at Pangong safari and culture tours. the 14th Dalai Lama. The oldest and biggest Buddhist camps and many other monastery in Nubra Valley, the Diskit Monastery can places except Leh We are trying to promote be seen from here. (In select Leh hotels, Ladakh in key markets for The Nubra river keeps us company, flowing heating facility is peacefully, showing off its turquoise blue waters till available from October winter adventure activities the Maitreya Buddha temple. The Shyok river takes till end of April or mid over after some time. We stop at Durbuk check post of May) depending on among young tourists” to show our permit to enter Pangong. From here it is temperature Tundup Dorje a one-hour journey; it is sunny but the breeze is cold. Owner, Overland Escape The roads are decent and one has to commend the Mobile incredible work done by the Border Roads Organi-  For tourists from zation. outside the State, only We checked into Pangong Resort & Camp around post paid connections permarkets, but taste like heaven. lunch time. This is a luxury property located right on of BSNL and Airtel Mobile telephony and mobile internet connections the bank of the lake. One of the most serene and pic- work are pathetic all over Ladakh. Only BSNL and Airtel turesque waterbeds in the world, Pangong Tso as the  Routes of Zangskar, post-paid connections work but the call reception Ladakhis call it, is located at 14,270 ft. above sea lev- Kargil, Sham Valley, is patchy in Leh. It is very normal for hotels in Leh el. The dwelling units are semi-permanent structures Nubra, Tso Moriri and to inform you that hotel Wi-Fi is not working. While with canvas roofing which make them look like tents. Pangong have only travelling on the road to Nubra or Pangong, mobile There is hot water and power supply for a limited BSNL network connectivity is intermittent. At Nubra hotel, Wi-Fi is time. We had been advised not to take bath and only

00 | Destination Reporter | November 2018 November 2018 | Destination Reporter | 00