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6 TRAVELLEISURE LAKE GENEVA REGION MAGNUM 2015 CHOCOAL IN 1875, DANIEL PETER INVENTED MILK CHOCOLATE IN A TINY LAKE GENEVA HAMLET CALLED VEVEY. TODAY, IN AND AROUND THIS TOWN ARE SOME 0F THE BEST PLACES TO TASTE CHOCOLATE, AND LEARN HOW T0 MAKE IT. BY ADITI DATTA

e’refairly from vesselto vat—andthat’sthe kind of there isanotherconstituentthat puts the comfortable chocolate that Switzerlandmade. countrys chocolatein a leagueofitsown with the notion Swisschocolate has its own kind andthat isthe purewholesomenessofits inherited from ofgoodness, and is one that isn’t dairy.Lazycowspatchedin textbookblack pop culture casuallyconferred. Because agricultural andwhitemaygrazehappilyon deliciously and one which facts like growing of sugar and cacao greenpasturesrearedon cleanmountain we know through experienceto be beans might not be in any countrys air,but thismerryherdbenefitsmorefrom true—that indeed, lifeis likea box of control, these essential ingredients the landscapethanjust mood.Without chocolates.And ifwe happened to get can be imported from outside biologicalstressors,the qualityofmllkis the creamy milkchocolatefrom the box, Swissborders. But the blending, exceptional.Thequalityofchocolatemade we’dhave onlyVeveyto thank. Even mixing, refining, conching, moulding withthat milk—evenbetter. though chocolateassociationsare evenly and tempering must happen within Perhapsthat’swhat gavea attributed to some European neighbours Switzerland in order for a product to gentleman on Ruedes Bosquets 13, who certainlyknow their craft, there is quality as Swisschocolate. Vevey,inspiration to add milkto this that imagethat lingersin most minds of Other than perfectionoftechnique alreadyindulgent treat. Production meltingchocolateflowinguninterrupted that isonlyto be expectedofthe Swiss, of chocolatestarted in Switzerlandin

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TRAVELLEISURE

Food

8

I DANIELPETER INVENTED CHOCOLÀTE WITH 4ILK IN 1875, AND WITH THAT,VEVEYWAS SEALEDAS THE SWEETEST SPOT IN THE WORLD

From Ieft A model representing tIsechocolate train passlng throtqh LakeGeneva Region:Chocolatier malin g chocolate in Lausanrse. the pressure enormous. Here are some President, serving from 1974tiil 1981, must pass through vigourous tests noteworthy names in the chocolate who even had a standing order for a batch judged by a pretty picky panel to make game to whom we owe much happiness: to be sent to the Elysée.The trademark the cut, and once admitted, they share Giscard truffle liveson. wuthrich.ch their traditional knowledge and unique DURIGCHOCOLATIER tricks ofthe trade to move forward LAUSANNE,LAUSANNE ZURCHER,MONTREUX together, as one. conJiserie-mojonnier.ch To ensure every aspect ofchocolate It might be a good idea to f111up with makes you feel good, Durig uses only lunch at their in-house café before EARLYBECK, fair-trade organic ingredients to make heading to the chocolate and cake CHATEAUD’OEX their ail their products. Their Chocolate selection of this chocolatier whose We don’t usually like anything & Hazeinut spread is quite simply, recipes have been in the familyfor over interfering with the decadent smell of heaven on toast. durig.ch 130years. Or you might skip lunch to chocolate, except for when it’sfreshly make room only for desserts — depends ground coffeebeans we’retalking about. CHOCOLATERIE ifyou see it as stornach half-empty or The café-and-shop hails from Gstaad WUTHRICH,LAUSANNE halffull.conJlserie-zurchei:ch originallywhere the Oehrli familyhas Youmay daim to lovechocolate, but do been recreating their sperb recipes you loveit enough to have a creation MOJONNIER,LAUSANNE for four generations. We tried the named especiallyafter you?\Vell,it Opened in 1951, this chocolaterie Champagne Truffles,unsure if may have to do something with the fact might actually seem young in we needed another sinful eiement that the exquisitelycrafted chocoiate comparison with its cohorts oflegend. and are confident we can say that at Wuthrich found a fan in the French Almost run like an association, artisans joys only multiply.earlyheck.ch+

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-- Vevey,it is difficuitto miss the metai fork plunged into the lake. It’sclose enough to the lakefront that it seems to be just within people’sreach and primed for the next bite, as it stands tau and proud, and glistens in ail its glory in a shimmering pool ofblue. Ihe Fork is located directiy in front of Alimentarium, the Nestlé food museum, and was erected in 1995 to mark the lOth year anniversary of the small-scaie modem museum. After ail,this is a place that loves and understands food in a way that most cuhnary capitais of the world can oniy hope to. Ifyou look around in Lake Geneva Region,you’iifind stories ofhistory and culture in yourjourney from one place to the next. We share some here:

CharlieChaplinStatue at Quai Perdonnet, Vevey Right by The Fork,you’lisee a straight faced statue of a man that made many around the world laugh. A statue of Charhe Chaplin was erected to commemorate the 25 years that he hved in Vevey,and is a reminder in bronze of the power of humour. Taking forward Corsier-sur-Vevey’sassociation with the man, the Modem Times Hotei and the Chapiin’sWorld Museum, to open soon, wili pay homage to the comic star. FreddieMercurystatueatthe modertimesmuseum.ch Montreuxakelront. Opposite: The ForkinVevey.

LaPetite Sirène du LacLman j Littie Mermaidof LakeGeneva, nymphs done by Swissscuiptor, Edouard recording studio where much of British Lausanne Marcel-Sandoz, who was an Art band Queen’smusic was made. This A statue by artist Natacha de Senger Nouveau artist and founded the French statue was unveiled in 1996to an almost found its home on a rock in the lake in Society ofWiidlife in 1933.Located near full house. Stilivisited by fans every 1966,and has prompted scores ofpeople the point that people board the cruise single day,this statue is music in motion on the shore to wonder what if there ship, ferrying them up and down the and seems to echo Freddie Mercury’s was another form oflife in the sea? This, lake,we’reat ieast grateful to have an famous words, “Don’tstop me now, I’m whiie the mermaid looks out in hope easier ride. having such a good time.” of growing feet and livinga lifeon firm earth that we hve everyday.Maybe we do Freddie MercuryStatue, Ouverture au Monde Opening I have it better than we think. Montreux Lakefront to the World,Ouchy Lakefront It would be fair to saythat Montreux In stark contrast to more traditional Sea Nymphsand Seahorses, loves Freddie Mercury as much as forms of sculpture found in Switzerland Jardin du Rivage,Vevey he loved the town. Montreux was his lies a metal sphere of sorts, except Not much is known about the three sea sanctuary, as weli as the venue of the that it isn’ta complete circle. Made by

TRAVELLEISURE LAKE GENEVA REGION MAGNUM 2015 11 __ p-

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prominent Spanish artist Ange!Duarte flot a work of art, the simple beauty simp!yas the LBD,we’dbe honoured in 1973,it shows an otherwise round of the headstone carved with Coco to pay a visit. world !iterallyopening up, perhaps Chanel’sastrological sun sign sees its symbolising the ushering of a new age of fair share ofvisitors. For a woman who LaViergedu Lac Virginofthe z Switzerland from its romantic past. taught us about elegance, the power of Lake,Lausanne smelling good in the morning, suiting Ail of Lausanne knows every inch ofthis o Gabrielle ‘Coco’Chanel up in the day,accessorising right, and sculpture, as artist Vincenzo Kesse!ring r Headstone, Lausanne stepping out at night in the ultimate chipped away from 1987 to 1989on a Because respect must be paid. Aithough uniform of sophistication now known large block of marbie he had deposited

Château From Ieft: LeCenturion inPlace du Marche,Vevey:Virginof the Lake n Lausanne on Lake Geneva’sshore. Rumour has be happy to know that this dilemma Sculptures is usually enough for a it that the people of the town weren’t prompted British-born Charles Morgan lifetime of inspiration, as you see sure whether they wanted to keep this to turn to art in order to express scattered stories of triumph ofwill portrayal of unconventional beauty his thoughts. His fantastical mobile over anatomy. Visitors can see fantastic when it was completed but it stood sculpture made ofseeming scrap and moments in sports commemorated for the beauty of the lake nevertheless, moving bits shows the light-hearted for posterity, and if alongside them and that was too close to their hearts side of machinery that Switzerland is you spot a tom torso, don’tworry that to let go of. synonymous with. it’sincomplete. The Iessconventional works of famed post-modemnartist Homme-Poisson-Volant Femme l’enfant Woman Igor Mitoraj grace the garden and I Ma-Fish-FIying,Quai de la WithChild,Lausanne remind us of beauty in even frailty Rouvenaz,Montreux Created by award-winning sculptor and imperfection. Lausanne-born sculptor Gaspard Nicolas Delémont in 1991,the metal Delachaux was known to have a way sculpture is an abstract depiction of Before Flight, Quai Edouard with stone. In 1985,he created this a mother carrying a child in her arms, Jaccord,Montreux statue of a fishwith a pair of human their forms almost indistinguishable Created by Michel Buchs and displayed legs getting ready for flight. The texture from one another. A true reflection during the Montreux Biennale in of the wings is exquisite, giving the possibly,on the most universal 2011,this larger-than-life bird made impression of fluid movement in what is human sentiment. with wire was awarded the Jury Prize ultimately hard, cold stone. and made a permanent displayon the LeJardin des Sculptures du Montreux lakefront. It is perhaps an ode LeCenturion, Place du Musée Olympique Garden to apprehension on the brink of doing I 4arche, Vevey of Sculptures at the Olympic something great, despite the limitations. Ifyou think you’restruggiing a tiny Museum, Lausanne Its found its home in a town that has bit in the language department, you’ll A minute spent at the Garden of seen tragedy and soared above it.+

14 TRAVELLEIS1JRE LAKE GENEVA REGION MAGNUM 2015 The Poyetstore inVeveyhas racicaand racksfilled withthe sweetest creations.Trythe Chaplinshoe chocolatefor an experienceyou’llneyerforget.

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onsieurBiaisePoyetisa stemman—heisinthe chocoiatebusiness,ina chocolateIovingtown,and MEET he hasnotimeto waste.HechoseVeveyto open Biaise Poyet O shopinbecauseit issmaUyetcosmopoiitan,it knows chocoiate,andhavingbeencompleteiyburntandrebuiitinthe SERVINGAT MiddleAges,[t believesinchances.Poyetspendsasmuchtime Poyet Shop, Vevey witha boardingpassinhandashe doeswitha whisk.Technical expertiseisn’tthe oniythingneededforworldclasschocolate; SERVINGSINCE he alsoneedsnewstoriesandflavoursto makechocoiateeating Eighteen years a compieteexperience.Hiscreationforthe DaiaiLamawas carefuilyconceivedandmeticuiousiyexecuted—infusedwith lotusfiowerandmadecrunchywithsuma(Tibetanbuttertea), the chocolatesquareisadornedwitha goidringto symbolisethe wayto heaven,andmarkedwitha mandalasign.The Bombay 4 specialismadewithmango,garammasala,milkchocoiate,and chai.Poyeteyesourexcitementsuspiciousiy.Heisconvinced t we’ligobbleupthe chocoiate,whichto himisanuttersin.He staysto makesurewetakeourtimeto tastehiscreations,one biteat a time.For18 yearsandcounting,MonsieurPoyethas takenhischocolateveryseriously.con[iseriepoyet.ch+

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Things -.1- SHIPSTHATPASSin the dayor night aren’texactlystrangers; instead,they givea cheerful honk as they cross each other on their journeys up and down LakeGeneva.

IFYOU’DLIKEto refrain from O alcohol but need the perfect accompaniment to a fantastic rôsti, most restaurants willsuggest you alcohol-free beer that is every drop as good as the regular variety served around the world.

• NAVIGATINGTHE UNDULATINGlandscape ofLake Geneva Region’stowns need not be an uphiil task;hotels usuallygiveguests a complimentary city pass allowing them access to public transport and will help arrange a shuttie when you’rechecking in or out.

• IFYOUNEED aminutetosit down, Switzerlandmakes plenty of room. We found warmth and respite on benches made out ofwooden logs everyfewminutes, peppered with Clockwise from top left: Shipsgivea dashes of bright colourscoming from cheerful honk as they pans;Keep an ear out for the sound effects intrains; littlefloweredpots nestled comfortably Meringue served withhomemade ice in their embrace. —ADITI DATTA cream; Bench made out of s wooden login Villars.

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TRAVELLEISURE LAKE GENEVA REGION MAGNUM 2015 25

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who makes the more discerning choices; The historicalcastie has seen three a visit to the Chillon Castie is flot to noble owners in its centuries of existence: be missed. A mention of the castie the Savoy(responsiblefor most of the immediately bring to mmd ThePrisoner construction including the three spiky ofChillon by English poet Lord Byron, towers along the lakesidefaçade),the narrating the plight of prisoner François Bernese era, and the Vaudoisera. One Bonivard: can spend hours wandering around the Thereare sevenpillars ofGothicmould, rooms and the historical cellar.Dark, In Chi1lon’sdungeonsdeepand old, dingy passageslead to interesting parts Thereare sevencolurnns,massyandgrey, ofthe castle—Coatof-Arms Hallwith _.iÇ. Dim with a duil iniprison’dray... designs that were painted in the l3th and Much before the castie earned its the l6th century, Chapel of the dukes, place in romantic poems, and novels, and tollets,where many humour tales of it was a fortress, arsenal, and prison. It Medievaltoilet habits corne to fore. was around the 1530sthat Bonivardwas Unspoiled scenery can best be held as a politicalprisoner in the mighty observed from this architectural jewel’s dungeons. With his writing, Bryon made impressivelydecorated windowseats. a mark for Chillon Castie in the world of However, take the steps that lead to the literature, but perhaps, he wished to leave top ofthe tower (steep and seemingly a mark on the castle itself:He carved unending, I wish I was fitter) and his name on a pillar in the dungeon! spectacle before me was ofspeachless Protected by a Perspex screen, it is a beauty and glamour. chillon.ch tourist attraction itself. —AROMA SAH ANANT L TRAVEL-LEISURE LARE GENEVA REGION MAGNUM 2015 31

2015

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