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Home , Diamond (gemstone), Jewellery, Jewellery design, Miss World 2017

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Issue number 395 CONTENTS

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85 Fairs 25 100 43 Fine gems, innovative shine 10 25 at June HK Fair 46 Trendy collections, gems glitter at Las Vegas show

Pearls 50 intensifies global 24 promotion 51 Japan showcases Filipino artistry with Rajo Laurel and Jewelmer

Gemstones 53 Dealers see sparkling demand outlook for 58 turns spotlight on fine gems and

Greater 18 Crossover events motivate, upgrade 60 A love affair with diamonds Shuibei’s jewellery 64 Dominion reveals CanadaMark 21 Festival shines spotlight on Da Luo Jewellery Competition winner Tang’s jewellery sector 65 Venus Jewel launches user-friendly mobile App Jewellery 66 SRK unveils new promise, 24 French jewellers display artistry and e-commerce portal sophistication 67 GIA develops app for modern 27 HK jeweller banks on market consumers diversification to sustain growth 68 Forevermark captures eternal love 30 King Fook stays true to its brand with latest collections heritage 69 Alrosa to strengthen focus on market 34 Thai jeweller underscores enduring leadership and business muscle

Jorge Vazquez / Image.net by Getty Images Jorge Vazquez designs 70 Group announces plans to invest in start-ups Conversations 36 Shamballa’s mystic journey News 5 JNA Awards announces 2017 Design Honourees 38 Marie Mas: ‘Jewels of movement’ 6 Next-gen jewellery designs to take centre stage at GIT competition 7 International retailer unveils latest 40 Jewellery trader remains jewellery resourceful amid uncertainties 41 Manufacturer presents 3D resin JNA Style printer 10 Sweet inspiration 42 Modern jewellery photography 12 Height of elegance solutions from Flex Line 14 Totem Collection

In Love With 16 ‘In Eternal love with Platinum’ Next issue On the Cover Major manufacturers, and dealers share their Butterfly in set with perspectives and insights about the an icy centre gem, US jewellery market. , diamonds and enamel by 12 Shirley Zhang of Shenzhen HEMEI Art * All figures in this publication are in US Design Co Ltd. To know more about dollars unless otherwise stated. Zhang’s fine creations, turn to page 6.

︱July 2017 3 Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Telephone: (852) 2827 6211 Fax: (852) 3749 7348 www.jewellerynewsasia.com

Group Publisher Irene Foo EDITORIAL Editor Marie Feliciano Assistant Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo Staff Writers Christie Dang, Olivia Quiniquini, Sze Man Young, Dodo To (Shenzhen) SALES Head of Sales, Regional Christine Sinn Advertising Manager Tina Hui Account Manager Jennifer Chan MARKETING AND CIRCULATION Senior Marketing Executive Grace Tam Senior Circulation Executive Lonita Hui ONLINE & SOCIAL MEDIA Assistant Marketing Manager Winkle Yim Senior Marketing Executive Althea Long Online Specialist Pansy Lo PRODUCTION Senior Production Manager Jessie Quek Armando Recio Advertising Administration Eva So REPRESENTATIVE OFFICES China: Wendy Yip, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd Tel: (86) 20 8666 0158 Fax: (86) 20 8667 7120 E-mail: [email protected] Shenzhen Office Tel: (86) 755 8268 6301 Fax: (86) 755 8268 6310 E-mail: [email protected] Japan: Nobuaki Nito, UBM Japan Co Ltd, Tel: (81) 3 52961020 Fax: (81) 3 52961018 E-mail: [email protected] Korea: Sue S J Seo, UBM Korea Corporation Tel: (82) 2 2209 5885 Fax: (82) 2 432 5885 E-mail: [email protected] Taiwan: Sabine Liu, UBM Asia Ltd - Taiwan Branch Tel: (886) 2 2738 3898 Fax: (886) 2 2738 4886 E-mail: [email protected] : Anuchana Vichvech, UBM Asia (Thailand) Co Ltd Tel: (66) 2 642 6911 Fax: (66) 2 642 6919-20 E-mail: [email protected]

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President & CEO Jimé Essink Senior Vice President Wolfram Diener Founder Letitia Chow Mei Lai

Copyright Contents of Jewellery News Asia are copyright. Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorisation of the publisher. Jewellery News Asia is published in Hong Kong each month and is available on subscription. Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. NEWS

JNA Awards announces 2017 Honourees

JNA Awards 2017 Honourees

Brand of the Year – Goldendew Co Ltd – Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd – China Soft Touch Jewellers LLC – Tanaka Kikinzoku Jewelry K K – Japan

eSupplier of the Year Kela – China Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd – Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd – India

Industry of the Year 3D Jewellery Company Ltd – China Jim Li of Guangdong Gems & Exchange; Caroline Yuen of Shanghai Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co Ltd – Hong Kong Exchange; Peter Suen of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group; Wolfram Diener of UBM Asia; Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd – Switzerland Shenzhen Lingchengben Technology Letitia Chow of UBM Asia; Rita Maltez of Rio Tinto Diamonds; Abhishek Parekh of KGK Corporation Ltd – China Group and Liu Zheng of Guangdong Land Holdings Shenzhen Perfect Love Diamond Co Ltd – China Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd – China Voguegold Jewellery – China he JNA Awards has year with record-breaking entry Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd – China announced its highly numbers, with first-time entrants Manufacturer of the Year – Jewellery anticipated list of Honourees accounting for 22 percent of KGK Group – Hong Kong T Shenzhen Foreway Group Co Ltd – China or finalists across 10 categories the applications. Nowadays, Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd – China Shenzhen Gemhorn Jewelry Co Ltd – China at a news conference held on the companies have to innovate, not sidelines of the June Hong Kong only to thrive, but to survive. The Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – ASEAN China Stone Co Ltd – Thailand Jewellery & Gem Fair. impact of innovation is evident in Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company – The event, now in its sixth year, different aspects of production, Tomei Consolidated Berhad – is a premier awards programme including marketing, supply chain Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – that recognises and celebrates management, gem and Greater China Jewellery Group Holdings Ltd – excellence and in the , product development China jewellery and gemstone industry, and business strategies.” Hiersun – China Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd – China with a focus on advancing the The 2017 independent judging Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial trade in Asia. panel consisted of industry experts Co Ltd – China Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd – China This year, close to 100 highly namely Albert Cheng, advisor to Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India qualified entries from 13 countries the World Gold Council, Far East KGK Diajewels India Pvt Ltd – India and regions, namely China, (WGC); James Courage, former Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd – India RMC Gems India Ltd – India , Hong Kong, India, Japan, executive of Platinum Guild Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below) Malaysia, , South Korea, International and former chairman Kashi Jewellers – India Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, of the Responsible Jewellery Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company – Vietnam United Arab Emirates and Vietnam, Council; Lin Qiang, president and SK Jewellery Pte Ltd – Singapore were received. managing director of the Shanghai Tomei Consolidated Berhad – Malaysia The categories that drew the Diamond Exchange (SDE); Nirupa Sustainability Initiative of the Year J Hunter – Fiji most number of entries were the Bhatt, managing director of the KGK Diajewels India Pvt Ltd – India Industry Innovation of the Year, Gemological Institute of America PANDORA Production Co Ltd – Thailand Brand of the Year – Retail and (GIA) in India and the Middle East; Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below) Young Entrepreneur of the Year. Yasukazu Suwa, chairman of Suwa Mr Rihen Mehta, 7Cs Group – Letitia Chow, chairperson of & Son, Inc of Japan; and Mark United Arab Emirates Mr Zhou Can Kun, Shenzhen Batar Investment the JNA Awards and director of Lee, research director of Asia Holding Group Co Ltd – China Mr Zhang Guo Tao, Shenzhen Darry Jewelry Business Development – Jewellery Pacific Institute for Strategy (APIFS). Co Ltd – China Group at UBM Asia, remarked, “It Ms Qi Xiaoman, Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd – China is very motivating to see another continued on page 7

︱July 2017 5 NEWS

Next-gen jewellery designs to take centre stage at GIT competition

rganised by the Gem and providing an international platform GIT is also organising the First Jewelry Institute of Thailand to next-generation Gem-Cutting Competition for the O(GIT), the Eleventh Gem to showcase their talents and first time to give an opportunity and Jewelry Design Contest and the eventually contribute to Thailand’s to Thai students and to First Gem-Cutting Competition are gem and jewellery sectors. improve their skills and be able to The contest’s compete internationally. theme is “Illusion through the The institute likewise – Where the Mystery announced the members of its of Your Design Begins.” The judging committee, which includes winner will be given the Royal experts in the , gemstone Shield Award by HRH Princess and jewellery sectors. Chulabhorn Walailak and a grand The judges for the Eleventh prize of 500,000 Baht (around Gem and Jewelry Design Contest $14,600). are Suriyon Sriorathaikul, managing According to GIT, the main director of Beauty Gems Group objective of the contest is to (Thailand); Nisan Ongwuthitham, encourage budding designers to founder and owner of Ong Jewelry showcase their designs to local Design (Thailand); Wunporn and international audiences. Poshyanond, editor-in-chief of “The competition was set up Harper’s Bazaar Thailand; Alessio to also serve as a platform to Boschi, jewellery designer at Rachane Potjanasuntorn, chairman of the exchange ideas with international Alessio Boschi (Italy); Sirapat board of executive directors of the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, at the participants. The winner’s design Pipatveeravat, marketing director press conference on the Eleventh Gem will also be produced by GIT of Dermond Anandara; and and Jewelry Design Contest and the First or other sponsors,” noted the Thadchawin Suraseth, managing Gem-Cutting Competition institute. director of LS Jewelry Group. JNA

Shirley Zhang enchants with nature-inspired enamel jewellery ewellery designer Shirley Having won several awards Zhang is bringing the around the world, Zhang specialises Jenigmatic appeal of enamel in enamelling. She draws inspiration jewellery to the fore with her latest from nature and traditional cultural creations launched under Artoriz, elements, and her creative a jewellery brand that supports process is heavily influenced by independent designers and the distinctive properties of the designer brands. materials she uses. Zhang, founder of Shenzhen The designer’s technique, HEMEI Art Design Co Ltd (H-ADC) combined with artistic colour and creative director of HEMEI compositions, results in one-of-a- Group, has made a name for herself kind pieces. as an enamel jewellery designer. H-ADC has so far liaised with Founded in 2016, H-ADC about 50 global independent strives to redefine designer labels designers, including French jewellery and help global independent designers Marie Paule Quercy and designers implement and actualise Fine enamel jewellery by Shirley Zhang Marie Pierre Canivet; Sarah Graham, their own businesses. for Artoriz Anthony Lent and Zheng Yexuan. JNA

6 ︱July 2017 NEWS

International retailer unveils latest tanzanite jewellery line

anzanite is the of a new The collection is offered fine jewellery collection under in a variety of sizes, T the Safi Kilima Tanzanite according to Diamonds brand, which is exclusively available International. at jewellery retailer Diamonds The WOW Collection, Tanzanite from the International. meanwhile, offers timeless WOW Collection. Diamonds International is a designs combined with All jewellery products by privately held jewellery retailer in the modern-day sophistication. Safi Kilima Tanzanite Caribbean, and Alaska. Safi Kilima Tanzanite’s Safi Kilima Tanzanite, launched Spring/Summer 2017 10 years ago, introduced the jewellery collections embody Forget Me Not Collection, which a tanzanite’s rarity and pay features resembling the homage to the stone’s classic Alaskan flower on a and roots. The overall style is strong . silhouettes. The brand is aiming to promote love for tanzanite as the industry celebrates tanzanite’s discovery 50 years ago. Tanzanite is being piece of history. We are calling marketed as “thousand this #TheYearofSafi as we times rarer than diamonds” continue to raise awareness with a little over a and help commemorate decade of supply the 50th anniversary of remaining. tanzanite,” noted Danielle “Safi Kilima Tanzanite Riesel, Safi Kilima ‘Forget Me Not’ earrings adorned offers everyone a Tanzanite’s director of with tanzanites chance to acquire a Tanzanite couture marketing. JNA

JNA Awards ... from page 5 creative marketing,” Courage platform to showcase the commented. industry’s development and WGC’s Cheng said, “I “The shortlisted entries not only successes. It’s very impressive am happy to see increased demonstrate solid achievements to see the participants’ passion, participation this year, especially and effective approaches in innovation and contribution to from and China. problem-solving, they also set the trade.” Although this creates more examples of good leadership,” The winners will be announced debate for the judging panel, noted Lin of SDE. at the JNA Awards Ceremony it helps further strengthen the GIA’s Bhatt shared, “It is and Gala Dinner scheduled Awards.” encouraging to see the high for September 14 during the “The quality and geographical quality of entries, which makes September Hong Kong Jewellery breadth of this year’s entrants our responsibility as judges & Gem Fair. The 2017 edition confirm the relevance of such more challenging and exciting. of the JNA Awards is supported awards, reflecting the focus of Recognition like this inspires by Headline Partner Chow Tai the region’s push on innovative entrants to further grow their Fook and Honoured Partners and evolving technical and talent and accelerate the pace of KGK, Rio Tinto Diamonds, SDE, environmental developments, innovation.” Guangdong Gems & Jade while increasing the importance Lee of APIFS added, “The Exchange, and Guangdong Land of consumer responsibility and JNA Awards is an excellent Holdings Ltd. JNA

︱July 2017 7

JNA STYLE FILE

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esigner Jorge Vazquez, one Dof the essential names in ’s fashion scene, once again impresses with a collection that combines understated elegance and wearability. Soft, graceful and playful, these Fall/Winter looks are also evident in the world of fine jewellery. inspiration Sweet

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10 ︱July 2017 JNA STYLE FILE

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1. This bold ring is from Magerit’s Babylon Collection 2. Ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and freshwater 5 pearls from Utopia’s Aqua Collection 3. & 4. pendant and earrings from Stenzhorn’s Mine Collection 5. ‘Coralia’ ring with a Paraiba centre gem by 6. A pair of coloured gemstone earrings by Giovanni Ferraris Photo credit: Runway photos from the Jorge Vazquez show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week . All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images

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︱July 2017 11 JNA STYLE FILE

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Height of elegance

alencian designer Juan Vidal celebrates feminine Velegance in a collection that showcases his mastery of creating structured and layered looks with subtle details such as , flowers and fringes. The colour palette is dominated by black, and gold – shades ideal for fall and winter. Perfectly enhancing this collection are these opulent jewellery pieces by some of the world’s most renowned brands.

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︱July 2017 JNA STYLE FILE

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1. & 2. Ring and earrings from Brumani’s Laces Collection. The collection is created by Brazilian designer Lethicia Bronstein exclusively for Brumani, and includes rings, earrings, and in three different versions: Pink gold with white and champagne diamonds, white gold with diamonds and , and white gold with diamonds and pearls 3. Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory – the . The Fabergé are a series of comfort-fit open-set bangles, available in white, and rose gold, and adorned with Fabergé’s iconic egg-shaped design element 4. Minuendo pendants by Minù, Giovanni Ferraris’ easy-to-wear jewellery line. Fresh, contemporary and colourful, Minù has a charm all its own 5. The Bohème diamond necklace from Gellner embodies everything that today’s confident woman could wish for. With attention to detail and casual elegance, the unconventional loop chain in 18-karat rose gold ensures an impressive appearance. The detailed decoration with numerous, delicate diamond roses and finely facetted diamond briolettes lends an air of colourful playfulness to the voluminous necklace Photo credit: Runway photos from the Juan Vidal show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images

︱July 2017 JNA STYLE FILE

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Totem Collection

esigner Ulises Merida pays homage to women everywhere with his Totem DCollection. The opulent line features vertical and twisty silhouettes, with large enveloping pieces that define the protective, spiritual and sometimes mystical qualities of a woman. Thick fabrics with marked textures including woven mohair cloths, thick knitted fabrics mixed with leather, technologically woven materials and sequins that give the fabric an armour-like appearance are prevalent in the collection. All of them coexist with fabrics such as satin and silk weaves, laminated cloths with a litmus appearance or tricot knits with a lurex base. The colours reflect an autumnal nature that is based on the most intense blacks and browns, with touches of dry green, Persian and iridescent purple. Perfectly mirroring Merida’s collection are these fine jewels that remind one of fall’s myriad .

14 ︱July 2017 JNA STYLE FILE

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4 1. Pearl ring from Autore’s Timeless Collection 2. Serpenti Viper rings with demi pavé diamonds by 3, 4. & 5. Moselle Collection by Atelier 5 . The Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry Collection was created exclusively for the carpet. Retail delineations of the pieces will be available in 2018 6. Pearl pendant from Autore’s Timeless Collection 6 7. Divas Dream Gioco e Vanita high jewellery earrings in pink gold with two , four rubellite beads (6.84 carats), four mandarin beads 7 (7.53 carats), round -cut and pavé diamonds (2.30 carats) by Bulgari Photo credit: Runway photos from the Ulises Merida show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. All pictures provided by Image.net by Getty Images

︱July 2017 15 IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM

‘In Eternal love with Platinum’ PGI® unveils Chinese Actor Yang Yang as New Ambassador

latinum Guild International Platinum: (PGI®) recently announced Pure and enduring Pthe appointment of its new brand ambassador and Yang’s determination to the launch of its latest platinum strive for the best is what jewellery line. makes him special. Although According to PGI®, Chinese touted as a “crowd favourite,” actor Yang Yang has been a “ for viewers” and named as its new ambassador. “the most popular male artist in The 25-year-old actor, who mainland China,” he remains went from being a dancer to humble and believes there is one of the brightest stars in always room for improvement. mainland China, is a dream Similar to rare platinum, which chaser who always stays is painstakingly extracted from true to himself. PGI® believes ore, Yang is now displaying Yang’s wholeheartedness his brilliance following years and determination have made of sheer hard work and him the perfect candidate to perseverance. represent the brand values that Over the years, PGI® has platinum possesses. committed itself to promoting During the shooting of the platinum among Chinese advertisement, “In Eternal Love consumers. Thanks to its with Platinum,” Yang shared Photo provided by PGI® efforts, platinum is now known as his thoughts on eternal love. the “metal of love,” which symbolises According to him, love is all about persistence. It purity and eternity. Looking forward, PGI® will further is important to keep on expressing love to make it strengthen its emphasis on to add last forever. In this regard, platinum is a medium that diversity to its offerings and cater to consumers’ needs. can stand the test of time and witness to the It also aspires to become a trendsetter in the platinum best moments in one’s life. This is also why Yang is jewellery category to connect with consumers on an fascinated by the metal. emotional .

New Platinum Jewellery Selection by PGI®

The Dandelion Platinum Jewellery love and vitality. The collection’s platinum Collection Inspired by the fragility of dandelions dandelion design, which symbolises endless Although not as splendid as blooming love, represents one’s pledge to an enduring flowers, the dandelion flourishes in its own lifetime commitment. way regardless of its habitat. Much like the dandelion, platinum is also an emblem of Dandelion Platinum Collection - necklace

16 ︱July 2017 IN LOVE WITH PLATINUM

Engrave your endless love in platinum Platinum is considered by lovers as a symbol of love and commitment for its purity and timeless characteristics. Its durability and ductility also make it an ideal material for jewellery artisans to showcase their skills, harnessing their creativity to turn a design inspiration into a . With great tenacity, platinum allows diamonds to be mounted firmly. Its pure white also sets off the lustre of diamonds in the best possible way. PGI® launched the Dandelion Platinum Jewellery Collection in the presence of its new ambassador, Yang. By capturing the beauty and essence of dandelions fluttering in the air, PGI® succeeded in creating a collection that represents a true celebration of eternal love.

[Facts about platinum] Q: How do I know if a piece of jewellery is made of genuine platinum? A: The easiest way is to ensure that the jewellery you bought carries the Pt or “鉑” mark. The mark is like the identity card of platinum. Only jewellery with Pt marks are genuine platinum jewellery. According to Chinese national standards, each piece of platinum jewellery must carry a Pt mark ® with the purity information indicated. For example, Photo provided by PGI Pt900 or “鉑900” signifies a purity of 900‰, while “足鉑” indicates a purity of more than 990‰. JNA

Dandelion Platinum Collection - Dandelion Platinum Collection - earrings

About PGI® Platinum Guild International (PGI®) was founded in 1975 and is a trade organization supported by the major South African platinum producers. PGI® has specialist teams dedicated to developing demand for platinum jewelry through consumer and trade facing programmes in the four key jewelry markets of China, India, Japan and the . In China, PGI® works to cultivate and guide Chinese consumers’ passion for platinum jewelry by providing a full range of support to promote the local platinum jewelry industry, and has achieved great results. In 2000, China became the biggest market for platinum jewelry in the world.

︱July 2017 17 GREATER CHINA Crossover events motivate, upgrade Shuibei’s jewellery industry

huibei’s jewellery industry is determined to make a comeback and strengthen its role as Sthe hub of China’s jewellery industry. To achieve this, industry stakeholders are collaborating with other sectors to create synergy through a series of crossover events. The 2017 Crossover Fashion Show was recently held at the International Business Center (IBC) in the Shuibei region of Shenzhen, China. Parties from different sectors pooled their talents and The ‘Dream ’ resources to stage the show. by Liu Fei Amidst dazzling visual effects created by Shenzhen’s technology companies, models from New Silkroutes Group Ltd (New Silkroutes) ruled the catwalk in elegant from Shenzhen Fashion Week, accented by stunning jewellery pieces provided by publicly listed companies. The revitalisation of the Shuibei jewellery hub is slowly but gradually gaining momentum. Apart from improvements in product design, craftsmanship, corporate management and operations, the inauguration of IBC provided the necessary hardware for the upgrade of industry-related support services. IBC is also hoping to transform itself into Shenzhen’s fashion centre by consolidating resources in the jewellery, fashion, , finance and technology sectors. It is

Opening ceremony of the Shenzhen International Fair Shuibei Jewellery Parallel Session

18 ︱July 2017

GREATER CHINA

believed that the influx of resources and professionals The 2017 with new perspectives and vision will contribute to the Crossover growth and development of the jewellery industry. Fashion The concept of harnessing resources residing in Show wins industry various sectors is not a new idea. support “Inter-industry convergence and resources-sharing are an effective way of improving efficiency. It is also a driving force in the development of the gold jewellery industry and jewellery consumption,” Zuo Jin Ping, deputy mayor of the Luohu District Government, said at the opening ceremony of the Shenzhen International Cultural Industry Fair Shuibei Jewellery Parallel Session. Crossover events like fashion shows serve as effective platforms for various industries to communicate and collaborate. IBC President Lu Li Hang pointed out that these events will help them explore new business and profit models. By enhancing brand experiences and interaction through technological means, it is hoped that this could promote the sector, drive consumption and make general manager Miao Zhi Guo, Ideal has been fashion a part of daily life. exploring the crossover concept for some time now to As such, IBC has entered into agreements with meet consumer needs. leading companies and institutions in the fashion, For it to work, the crossover strategy must be finance and technology industries during the show. practical, which means the concept itself must The list included the Shenzhen Garment Industry have commercial possibilities either as a product or Association, Guangdong Development Bank – a service, said Miao. He also pointed out that this Shenzhen Branch and the HTC VIVE VR Club. concept is environmentally friendly since resources will be reallocated or reused. Unveiling the ‘Dream Blues’ crown Ideal’s crossover to the wedding photography 2017 and the New Silkroutes China has been a success so far. The company initially Model Contest were the results of a strategic invested RMB1.4 million ($205,000) setting up stores agreement between IBC and New Silkroutes. The at wedding photography studios. Today, the business “Dream Blues” crown was created for the latter generates RMB1 million (about $150,000) in turnover competition. The crown, adorned with an 88-carat each month. sapphire, was designed by Liu Fei, a graduate of the Identifying its target audience is the reason behind School of Jewellery of City University and Ideal’s success. According to the company, couples a multi-awarded designer. visit wedding photography studios an average of six Inspired by the city of Dunhuang, one of the times, much higher than the number of times they important stations in the old Silk Road, the crown visit jewellery stores. This created opportunities for the symbolises the fusion of between the East manufacturer to introduce its products and engage and the West. By using the ribbon-themed design with clients. enhanced by graduating colours, the crown represents Ideal is planning to open 2,000 to 3,000 stores at a bond between the two cultures, which also reflects wedding photography studios across mainland China the vision of “ and Road” and the crossover within the next two to three years. Consumers of the cooperation between IBC and New Silkroutes. post-80s and ‘90s generations are its target audience Liu hopes that his creation could, to a greater since these groups favour trendy jewellery collections. extent, help gain recognition for China’s industries and Ideal is also teaming up with artists in creating a cultural heritage on the international stage. fine jewellery collection inspired by masterpieces of renowned traditional Chinese painters. Expanding market share “Connoisseurs collect artworks; they also purchase Shenzhen Ideal Jewellery Co Ltd (Ideal) was one jewellery,” said Miao. “The combination of fine art of the six publicly listed companies that participated in and jewellery is a new business concept that we are the Crossover Fashion Show. According to company exploring.” JNA

20 ︱July 2017 GREATER CHINA

Festival shines spotlight on Da Luo Tang’s jewellery sector

anyu, located in China’s Guangdong Province, is Pone of the primary jewellery industry clusters in the world. The sector took root in Panyu more than 30 years ago, transforming the province into the country’s jewellery production and export centre. Today, it is fortifying its position as a global powerhouse in jewellery production and exports. Referred to as “Jewellery The inauguration of the memorial arch in Da Luo Tang’s ‘Jewellery Town’ Town” by many, Panyu’s Da Luo Tang is located right in the heart Revolving around the theme, Design and Craftsmanship, which of the jewellery district. With more “Heritage, Ingenuity and Quality,” is awarding 20 artisans for their than 300 jewellery processing the festival features a number of ingenuity, pursuit of creativity and companies and over 2,000 attractions including an exhibition, for promoting innovation. jewellery retailers, the district is jewellery workshops and free home to over 50,000 jewellery jewellery appraisals. Industry alliance practitioners. Da Luo Tang According to organisers, the The Guangdong-Hong accounts for approximately 30 festival succeeded in raising Kong- Bay Area Jewellery percent and 70 percent of global public awareness and interest in Industry Alliance, co-initiated by and Hong Kong-Macau region the district’s jewellery industry. the Guangdong Gems & Jade jewellery production, respectively. The event, which was presented Exchange and the Guangzhou To further strengthen its like a carnival, did not only Diamond Exchange, was launched influence in the domestic improve consumer confidence; at the festival. jewellery market, Da Luo Tang’s it also encouraged creativity The Guangdong-Hong Kong- local government and industry and strengthened the bond Macau Bay Area has an important stakeholders are reinvigorating and collaboration between the role in China’s jewellery industry, the sector through infrastructure production and marketing teams. according to trade leaders, who development. Recently, a memorial As the community grew noted that the establishment of arch in “Jewellery Town” was bigger, Da Luo Tang has set the alliance was a reaction to unveiled as part of the second Da up the Committee of Jewellery the government’s call to deepen Luo Tang Jewellery Festival. cooperation among industry stakeholders in the region. By working as a team, members of the alliance can achieve synergy to strengthen the industry in terms of communication, resources- sharing, business cooperation and the promotion of best business practices. The industry will also benefit from greater support from the government, which can lead to The second Da Luo Tang Jewellery Festival the promotion of policy and system is a significant event for the local jewellery industry reforms. JNA

︱July 2017 21

JEWELLERY

French jewellers display artistry and sophistication

By Bernardette Sto. Domingo

rench jewellers’ exceptional designs and Merovee pendant unparalleled craftsmanship further cement and in ’s reputation as a centre of glamour 18-karat gold F by Commelin and the creative arts. of Arthus- Backed by decades of expertise in Bertrand jewellery , French jewellery houses have a proven track record in the global fine jewellery industry, constantly making waves in the gold, diamond, coloured gemstone and pearl jewellery sectors. JNA sat down with renowned maisons Arthus- Bertrand, Commelin, Group Schmitgall, Loris Paris and Joïa to talk about their core products, business strategies and France’s illustrious role in the fine jewellery world.

Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin Established in 1803, Arthus-Bertrand specialises in the manufacture of various products including and insignias. The company eventually transitioned to production of gold, and gem-set jewellery although medals and decorations remain a vital part of its business. Its design philosophy is mainly anchored upon a fusion of modernity and timelessness, injecting every Arthus- Bertrand piece with a one-of-a-kind character and charisma. At the beginning of 2017, the company merged with Commelin, one of the oldest French manufacturers of charms and a specialist in translucent enamel, according to Isabelle Latour of Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin. Since 1880, Commelin has made a name for itself in enamelling 18-karat gold medals and fine jewellery. The jeweller manufactures nearly 2,000 different types of charms. Commelin’s creations stand out because the enamel changes its colour depending on the intensity of light, added Latour.

Astre Royal necklace and bracelet by Commelin of Arthus-Bertrand

24 ︱July 2017 JEWELLERY

“These two companies are now at gemstones. We have since been exporting to the forefront of fine jewellery-making Asia,” revealed Pinot. in France, with emphasis on enamel The company has a store in , jewellery in 18-karat gold. Each Japan, and a distributor for China, which piece is handmade with enamel runs 700 shops, he added. “We exhibit and truly outstanding,” noted Latour. in Tokyo and Hong Kong in March “After the companies merged, we and September. We also participate now have a unified design philosophy, in BaselWorld, which is the most which is the use of enamel in classic important show for us,” continued the designs with a contemporary twist. This company official. is what the companies represent.” The jeweller’s major markets are Among the latest fine jewellery lines ; Asia, with a strong focus on launched by Commelin for Arthus-Bertrand China and Japan; and the is the Commelin Collection, which Middle East. includes pieces resembling a stained Ring with diamonds and “We want to focus window, and the of Time Akoya pearls by Pacoma Paris on our core markets at Collection, which centres on multi- the moment but we dimensional enamel jewellery that takes inspiration would like to further strengthen our from night and day. presence in the US in the future. According to Latour, Arthus-Bertrand is aiming to Since we exhibit in Basel, we’ve capture the Asian market with its latest collections. had some customers from the “Commelin used to sell in Japan while Arthus- US, and ,” Bertrand has a strong customer base in Europe and stated Pinot. France,” the company official said. “Asia has a huge Groupe Schmittgall’s main Calligrapher ring potential for us because Asian buyers love enamel. So products, under the Pacoma Paris with an Australian South Sea pearl far, we’ve seen quite an interest in our designs, with brand, are pearl and diamond centre gem and prospective clients telling us they were very impressed jewellery. Most recently, the diamond accents with the technique.” company has broadened its by Pacoma Paris Arthus-Bertrand and Commelin are setting their portfolio to include a new collection sights on Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, Singapore and of purely diamond and coloured gemstone mainland China. pieces, also under the Pacoma Paris The company executive described French-made brand. jewellery as “artistic and charming,” and is able to capture sophistication without being ostentatious. “We go for subtlety, uniqueness and elegance in our designs.” Latour also expressed optimism about growth prospects in the jewellery industry after a challenging 2016. “The storm has passed and we’re seeing signs of gradual recovery in the market,” she continued.

Groupe Schmittgall Gaëtan Pinot, owner of Groupe Schmittgall, has a mission: To immortalise Paris’ opulence and flair through fine jewellery. The company, founded in 1926, is behind the Pacoma Paris brand, which was launched in 2006. According to Pinot, Pacoma Paris perfectly embodies Parisian elegance in its predominantly pearl and diamond jewellery collections. “We were initially focused on the pearl business since the company’s establishment but we have since expanded into gem-set jewellery after I bought a company that specialises in diamonds and coloured Tahitian pearl bracelet by Pacoma Paris

︱July 2017 25 JEWELLERY

Loris Paris specialises in creating and producing -quality jewellery pieces. Over the years, it has gained fame for its design and manufacturing expertise, and is highly recognised in the field of fine arts and jewellery design. It uses top-quality diamonds of D to F colours and VVS1 clarity grade. Its pieces are also adorned with blue, pink and yellow sapphires, as as , Tahitian pearls and some South Sea pearls. The French jeweller’s main markets are France and Japan but it is building its business in Hong Kong and China, according to Khorchidian. “We consider distinctive designs as our competitive advantage. We launch new collections from time to time, especially for international trade shows because Loris Khorchidian of Loris Paris that’s the best time to showcase our expertise to our existing markets as well as potential “We always come out with new collections clients,” remarked the company to keep our inventory fresh and interesting. executive. There’s one collection that pays homage Loris Paris’ latest collection to Paris as an artistic hub. The collection features jewellery pieces with a celebrates theatre and the arts,” noted Pinot. small heart motif that is almost The company uses South Sea, Tahitian hidden to the naked eye. and Japanese Akoya pearls, G-colour “If you pay attention to the diamonds of VS clarity grade, as well as details, you will see the heart. It blue, pink and yellow sapphires. connotes secret love that’s why it is “We have a solid reputation in the pearl hidden. We place great importance on business since we have been in the industry details when designing our products for many decades. At the same time, our diamond Diamond because that’s what keeps us ahead and coloured gemstone business is likewise gaining and coloured of the competition,” continued ground in the industry,” he remarked. “My competitive gemstone ring Khorchidian. advantage lies in my expertise; this is my edge.” by Loris Paris Pinot also maintained an upbeat outlook for 2017, Joïa citing expansion initiatives that the company is undertaking. Founded in 1998 by Jean-Pierre Moreira, Joïa “I definitely see an improvement from last year. We produces fine jewellery pieces that complement the already opened new shops in Paris. We are planning women of today. The pieces are created with daring to open a boutique in Hong Kong and another one in lines and elegant curves that celebrate femininity. Tokyo within the next two years,” he disclosed. Marina Aparicio of Joïa said every Joïa piece is hand-made in France. Loris Paris “We make sure that our designs are highly Loris Paris is a family-owned enterprise that focuses exceptional and the way to do this is to seek uniquely on fine diamond jewellery. At the helm of the business beautiful stones,” stated Aparicio. “For instance, every is third-generation family member Loris Khorchidian, coloured gemstone is different so we always try to find who describes himself as a “hands-on” jeweller. The inspiration from the stone, and then work our way to company was established in 1949. designing a piece of jewellery.” “My grandfather built this company, The company, which is based in Lyon, which I’m now heading. I make sure has 52 employees in its manufacturing that I have an active involvement in facility, added the company executive. the overall process, from design to All the pieces are in 18-karat gold production,” commented Khorchidian. adorned with diamonds and unheated “Our company’s competitive advantage sapphires and rubies, as well as no-oil is that all our products are 100 percent emeralds. Some of the gemstones have made in Paris, from conceptualisation to Diamond and sapphire gemmological certificates. Joïa’s main manufacturing.” ring by Loris Paris market is France. JNA

26 ︱July 2017 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG

HK jeweller banks on market

‘Revolve’ pendant in 18-karat white gold diversification to with diamonds and fancy sapphires sustain growth

By Chris Wong

016 is a year to remember for Hong Kong-based jeweller 2Elegance Jewellery International (EJI) as it marked its 25th anniversary. To commemorate the occasion, company CEO Ricky Lam looked back at the company’s iconic collections over the years and recreated them for an exhibition. “It was interesting to see how our collections had evolved since it reflected how consumers’ needs and tastes have changed in different markets at different times,” Lam said. “I’m very pleased that our products are appreciated and recognised by our clients and markets around the world.” Ricky Lam, CEO of EJI Specialising in customised collections, EJI is known for its manufacturing capabilities and unswerving determination to produce fine- quality jewellery. In an interview with JNA, Lam talked about the company’s market positioning strategy and business philosophy, and his outlook for the industry in 2017.

Growth strategy EJI used to focus on the Japan market only. It was the 1998 financial turmoil that kick-started the company’s market diversification strategy.

‘Yun Cai’ folding fan brooch in 18-karat pink gold adorned with enamel and diamonds

︱July 2017 27 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG

“Our turnover during the 1998 financial crisis dropped 80 percent. It taught me a lesson,” revealed Lam. “Since then, I began to diversify my business to spread the risk. Hence, when the 2008 financial crisis hit, our turnover only recorded a 10 percent decline.” Chain stores are EJI’s primary clients. The jeweller’s customers are spread across ‘Papillon’ pendant various geographies, including the brooch in 18-karat US, Europe, mainland China, Japan, white gold with Southeast Asia and the Middle East. In sapphires and terms of sales, the US and European markets top EJI’s list. diamonds The China market presents great potential for EJI, Lam ‘Yun Cai’ said. However, consumers’ preferences and tastes are ring in changing. 18-karat white gold embellished “In the past, consumers in mainland China were highly value- with enamel and oriented. The majority of them, around 70 to 80 percent, were diamonds looking for pure gold jewellery. Today, their perception of jewellery has changed, with design and style as their main focuses,” he said.

Crises and opportunities With a mission to provide products and services of the highest quality, Lam pointed out that having the right is of utmost importance for jewellers. “They have to enjoy and respect what they are doing,” revealed Lam. “By doing so, the jeweller will be able to transmit that excitement, joy and passion to the customer through jewellery.” Lam further stated that a positive mindset is equally important. Having been in the industry for more than 30 years, he has experienced many ups and downs in the business. Each setback only made his team stronger, the company official said. “We have been through many challenges, such as SARS and the financial crises in 1998 and 2008. They are not necessarily a bad thing. For me and EJI, we considered them as opportunities to learn. In fact, these challenges turned out to be valuable experiences for us all,” he said. EJI’s business has gone from strength to strength since the 2008 setback. Lam was quick to attribute the company’s success to his team. “We face challenges on a daily basis, but complaining about it is not going to change anything,” said Lam. “Therefore, we stayed focused on our jobs and spared no effort to improve our operations. This is our responsibility as jewellers.”

Design and creativity EJI launches collections twice a year. In March, the company introduced a product line focusing on the “Dynamism” theme. The

‘Sparkle’ pendant in 18-karat white gold adorned with diamonds

28 ︱July 2017 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG

collections featured pieces with moving parts, including butterfly-motif items from the Papillon Collection and folding fan-inspired jewels from the Yun Cai Collection. The folding fan design, which is available in 18-karat pink gold and adorned with enamel and diamonds, is a crowd-pleaser, said Lam, noting that the collection’s uniqueness was the reason behind its success. ‘Revolve’ pendant in 18-karat white and pink “There was no similar product gold and ‘Revolve’ ring on the market. Ours stood out in 18-karat white gold from among other fan-shaped with diamonds and products because the ‘movable’ fancy sapphires concept was intriguing. The same case applies to our butterfly-motif products. The line was immediately noticed by our customers. In fact, many of them even played with the pieces,” said the company chief. Covering a wide price range, the collections are available in different sizes and forms, including pendants, rings and earrings. “Elegant, grand, exquisite and fun define EJI’s collections, and this is what jewellery should be,” Lam added.

Business outlook Taking tailor-made orders for clients is not easy since it requires strong production capabilities. EJI said it excels in this regard. “We produce high-quality jewellery using precious materials, including rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, and other gemstones requested by our clients,” said Lam. “As long as our clients can visualise what they want, we are confident we can create those for them.” Lam is optimistic about his business prospects despite economic uncertainties. “To be honest, I do not care what challenges lie ahead. The only things I care about are how we can refine our products and how we can exceed ‘Sparkle’ pendant in our customers’ expectations. I do not see 18-karat pink gold challenges as crises, I consider them as embellished with opportunities,” he said. “Product-wise, diamonds I believe jewellery is for daily use. It doesn’t have to be very fancy like a piece of artwork. Therefore, products in simple designs and with subtle elements that bring these pieces to life would be our focus going forward.” JNA

For more reports on Hong Kong’s major jewellers, log on to

jewellerynewsasia.com

︱July 2017 29 JEWELLERY

King Fook stays true to its brand heritage

By Marie Feliciano

Model presents ing Fook Jewellery is banking on impeccable craftsmanship, jewellery pieces by extraordinary designs, an exciting product mix and exceptional Annamaria Cammilli. service to stand out in Hong Kong’s jewellery retail scene. In an The Italian brand K interview with JNA, Davie Mok, director of Business Development & is exclusively sold Marketing at King Fook Holdings, talks about the brand’s core values, in Hong Kong at competitive strengths, and the importance of innovation and Masterpiece by king fook creativity in today’s fast-changing world of luxury retail.

JNA: In today’s dynamic business environment – marked by increased competition, fast-changing technologies and “empowered” consumers – how is King Fook Jewellery transforming itself into a competitive and nimble retailer? Davie Mok: With the disruption of the market and drastic changes in the technology and communications landscape, I believe consumers are much better informed in terms of brand choices and knowledge. Accordingly, they are making smarter, well-assessed and more cautious purchase decisions. King Fook Jewellery has sharpened its competitive edge by honouring its traditions while striving for continuous innovation. We continue to strengthen King Fook Jewellery’s brand equity of being the most reliable and trusted jeweller in Hong Kong. This positive reputation was built on a 67-year heritage of insisting on providing only best-quality products, and honest and . These are the core fundamental values and Davie Mok, the foundation of the long-established King Fook Jewellery brand. director of Business At the same time, we are proactively introducing innovative Development & concepts and unique designs in our product offering. Design has Marketing at King become an important brand distinction for King Fook Jewellery. Fook Holdings, delivers his welcome A good example is evident in our gold products. King Fook remarks at the Jewellery has the reputation of selling the purest 999.9 gold in the launch of Annamaria market since day one. While we continue this honourable business Cammilli’s latest practice, we also infuse contemporary designs into our traditional pure collections at gold collections, making them suitable for a modern-day lifestyle and Masterpiece by for everyday wear. king fook

30 ︱July 2017 JEWELLERY

JNA: What is the primary goal of King Fook Jewellery in 2017? Mok: There are still affluent consumers out there who are willing to spend even in the toughest economic situations. The crucial factor is that they are not merely looking at the price tag but more importantly, they are looking at the value that they derive from their spending. So, what King Fook Jewellery has been focusing on is creating greater value for money in terms of design, meticulous craftsmanship and premium- quality materials. This group of customers does not mind paying a premium as long as they know that they Richard Tang, chairman of King Fook Holdings Ltd, views are getting their money’s worth in return. Annamaria Cammilli’s latest collections

JNA: Your people and corporate culture play other hand, we have taken measures on driving cost a significant role in King Fook Jewellery’s efficiencies to help improve our bottom line. However, sustained success. How do you ensure that you there is always a time lag in the retail environment will have the resources and skills required before you can expect any noticeable changes. We to drive business growth? expect 2017 to remain a tough year with interest rates Mok: Indeed, corporate culture is important since it is rising and still a lot of uncertainties looming in the the blueprint that shapes the overall brand personality market. I one must remain cautiously optimistic and image of the company. As I have mentioned, and continuously strive for improvements, reinventing when customers buy from us, they are not only buying and breaking through to stay ahead of others. a product, they are also buying our brand promise – the guarantee that we are reliable and that they are JNA: How do you decide on the international getting the best quality and best value in the market. jewellery brands that you carry in your stores? Such consumer confidence is built upon fundamental Mok: The measuring stick is always to assess whether corporate beliefs and values that are persistently they will add value to the customer experience. The reinforced through internal trainings and communications. exclusive European brands that we carry have their Since luxury jewellery and accessories retail is still own uniqueness in terms of design and craftsmanship. very much a people’s business, personal interactions They bring a new dimension of sophistication in between customers and our sales staff are a vital part jewellery appreciation for our discerning customers. of the overall brand experience. For example, Annamaria Cammilli’s ability to produce Luckily for us, most of our shop managers and 18-karat gold in seven different colours, and realistic sales staff have been with us for quite some time, and renditions of fauna silhouettes and shapes; Palmiero’s their professional knowledge and expertise are valuable signature gradating colour diamonds in over 20 to the company. The stability of the front line staff shades; Mattia Cielo’s sculptural and metamorphic contributes much to customer satisfaction and loyalty. dynamism approach in jewellery designs; and Stenzhorn’s invisible setting technique are all very JNA: What is your business outlook for 2017? unique offerings. Mok: Looking at industry figures, the economy in 2017 seemed to have stabilised versus last year’s drastic JNA: What is the secret ingredient behind downward adjustments. Statistics has shown that in King Fook Jewellery’s business longevity and the first four months of the year, retail sales for the sustained success? luxury category has narrowed down to -1.3 percent Mok: There is no secret formula so to speak. I think (versus over -17 percent in 2016). For us, 2017 is by staying true to our fundamental values and heritage the time to consolidate our resources and sharpen on one hand while continuously striving for innovation our competitive edge. We will continue to strengthen and creativity on the other is our right now. our unique product offering and distinguish ourselves I believe for a company that has survived over six from our competitors through quality and value-for- decades of ups and downs and has developed a solid money propositions. For example, contemporary foundation of trust and credibility in the market, the Chinese concept designs have become an important challenge ahead is how to leverage on what we had, signature collection of King Fook Jewellery, which has continue to remain vigilant for change and be bold been favourably received by our customers. On the enough to shift the paradigm whenever we can. JNA

︱July 2017 31

JEWELLERY

Thai jeweller underscores enduring designs

rancis Chiu Co Ltd of “At the time, the Chinese Thailand has always counted market was at its peak. The Fon the charm of timeless company grew exponentially but jewellery to maintain its edge in a remained a small family business,” highly competitive industry. he remarked. With buyers becoming more The company’s sophisticated however, a jewellery largest market is piece has to be both artistic and Asia but it also innovative, according to Francis has Western Chiu, director of the company. buyers, according Jadeite and In an interview with JNA, to Chiu, adding diamond necklace Chiu talks about the jeweller’s that majority of the and brooch with design philosophies and business jeweller’s clients are diamonds, rubies and jadeite. strategies. collectors. All jewellery “We always aim photos from Empowering collections for jewellery designs Francis Chiu Co Chiu revealed that his mother’s that are practical and Ltd of Thailand passion for fine jewellery inspired classic at the same him to pursue a career in the time. The goal is to field. Over the years, the jeweller make a piece of Some designs meld developed an eye for what type jewellery that the classic look with a touch of of jewellery catches the fancy of empowers modernity, which is highly evident traders and connoisseurs. the wearer in jadeite jewellery collections. “My mom and I would visit by giving her Chiu revealed that it’s a jewellery shops all the time, more confidence,” challenge to change buyers’ Diamond which gave me a chance to view he noted. and coloured perception of jadeite as an old- an extensive array of jewellery Clients are also gemstone ring fashioned gemstone primarily and observe consumers’ buying partial to high- sought after by the older behaviour,” noted Chiu. “Having quality gemstones such as generation but the company strives been exposed to these at a young rubies, sapphires, emeralds and to provide designs that give jadeite age helped me become more jadeite, particularly natural and a more contemporary appeal. adept at identifying no-heat stones. “We acknowledge the fact exceptional that jadeite is generally favoured pieces.” Innovative designs by older customers but this Francis Chiu According to the company stone has another side, which Co Ltd was official, the jeweller has a team can become attractive even to established in that conceptualises one-of-a- younger clients with more modern 1999, starting kind designs for Francis Chiu tastes,” noted Chiu. with only a collections. The company official also few pieces “Our design and production said that more educated buyers of jewellery teams are the brains behind closely examine the design and and without a our signature look, which gives quality of stones before making a workshop. prominence to gemstones. I would purchase. “A buyer may find the sometimes tweak the designs or design appealing but if the quality A pair of and ruby earrings make suggestions but ultimately, is subpar, he or she will not invest with diamond accents we all work as a team,” he added. in the piece,” he added. JNA

34 ︱July 2017

CONVERSATIONS

Mads Kornerup, creative director of Shamballa Jewels. Photo by Morten Bjarnhof

Shamballa’s mystic journey

By Marie Feliciano

f there is one piece of jewellery that will always be identified with Shamballa Jewels, it is its iconic beaded macramé Shamballa Ibracelets. Made of 18-karat gold and 10mm beads of coloured gemstones, gold and diamond pavés, the bracelets are among the must-have jewels of A-list celebrities, from movie stars and music moguls to fashion legends.

36 ︱July 2017 CONVERSATIONS

Designed by Mads Kornerup in 2001, the JNA: Tell us about your plans in Shamballa bracelet, which drew inspiration New York. from Buddhist prayer beads, has “become Kornerup: We just signed a lease in a store more than a jewellery phenomenon.” on Mercer Street in New York. If everything “It brought about a zeitgeist that encouraged goes on as planned, we will open up on people to find meaning in the jewellery they Mercer in October. This shop is actually a wear, and that was exactly what he had set gift to our clients. We only have one flagship out to do – to create jewellery whose value shop now, and that’s in . We lies not only in the materials used, but in the also have a little franchise in Zurich. We very emotions they evoke and represent,” want our international clients – there may be according to the luxury jeweller. close to 20,000 solid Shamballa collectors Following the success of the design, worldwide, according to our calculations – to Mads and his brother, Mikkel, launched fine get serviced personally without having them jewellery brand, Shamballa Jewels, in 2005, come to . But of course, in Copenhagen, Denmark. Named after the and Paris will follow, and we’re going to see mythical Himalayan kingdom of Shamballa, what happens in Asia. In Asia, we are waiting Shamballa Jewels unites Eastern philosophy patiently to see who’s going to be a good with Nordic design traditions in its jewellery partner. designs. The brand, which creates jewellery that can be customised for bead, is JNA: Do you see potentially lucrative present in more than 30 countries, with a opportunities for Shamballa Jewels in flagship store in Copenhagen. China? In an interview with JNA, Mads, the Kornerup: I think even some of the Chinese company’s creative director and co-founder, cities we don’t even know about – the second- talks about the latest additions to Shamballa tier cities – are going to be the up-and-coming Jewels’ exciting repertoire and the brand’s cities within trends and fashion. I think the international expansion aspirations. Shamballa bracelet might very well be amazing for them. JNA: What have you been up to? Mads Kornerup: In our newest collections, I JNA: When did you have that “I’ve arrived” have created colour combinations that embrace moment – that moment when you you’ve the season but also embrace what the rest of fashion is made it? doing so they do correspond with what you are wearing. Kornerup: It happened some years ago. Karl Of course, we always maintain our collection with Lagerfeld came out of the couture show of ; precious stones – rubies emeralds and sapphires – but he raised his hand and waved. He was wearing a in the last couple of years, we started getting into brown, green emerald bracelet by Shamballa Jewels. When grey and yellow sapphires. We keep on discovering new the most iconic designer in the world waves his hand materials that work really well with our jewellery. What and shows he’s wearing your jewellery, that’s one big I have in my chain are some beautiful beads and moment for you. JNA they just give that spark and that magic to the necklace. We do not reinvent ourselves constantly but we do style, and we are showing colour to accomplish that. The magic with our beaded macramé Shamballa bracelets is that they can completely change their looks from one season to another just by changing the colour of the and by exchanging a couple of beads. It has always been our goal to create jewellery that can transform itself. That’s one of the most unique things Shamballa bracelets can do. Of course, when we have some great ideas, we add new solid pieces but our core is still the beads. You can get amazing beadings from other jewellery companies but for high-end precious From top: Gold necklace from the Spirit of Shamballa Collection; beadings, it’s only Shamballa. and bead bracelet from Shamballa Jewels’ Gold Collection

︱July 2017 37 DESIGN

1 2 3 4

Marie Mas: 5 ‘ Jewels of movement’ By Marie Feliciano

arie Cabirou, founder and chief designer of Marie Mas, presents exceptional pieces with Mher first collection, Swinging Stones. Designed to be “jewels of movement” inspired by the underwater world, the collection aptly embodies the joy that one associates with fine jewellery. Each exceptional piece can transform and adapt itself in one moment to one’s personality and desires. The coloured gemstones are set back to back. A mechanism allows the gemstones to rotate and switch colour in a balletic domino effect. According to the jeweller, Marie Mas’ strength is in the development of new patented techniques, which become part of the brand’s identity. Expert craftsmanship meets innovation to create the most incredible jewellery pieces. “I am looking for movement; poetry in the mechanism’s complexity. I love to bring a touch of magic to my jewels,” Cabirou said.

38 ︱July 2017 DESIGN

A graduate of the prestigious École Duperré (College of Art, Design and Fashion) and IFM (French Fashion Institute) in Paris, Cabirou learned jewellery design by assisting renowned jewellers Florence Croisier and Shourouk. Five years ago, she entered the maison Christian Couture 7 with Raf Simons, where she developed her jewellery designer skills. After three years, she decided to launch her own line of fine jewellery and jewellery that she named Marie Mas, in honour of her grandmother, who influenced her taste for femininity, beauty and creation. JNA: Why launch In an interview with JNA, Cabirou talks about her your brand now? love for jewellery and the challenges and rewards of Cabirou: I am 28 entrepreneurship. years old, and before Marie Mas: starting my own line, I JNA: When and how did Marie Mas start? worked for Christian Dior for three Marie Cabirou: The brand was only launched years. I felt this is the ideal time to strike out on a few months ago, and the Swinging Stones my own since I am young and free. I love to learn. Collection is our first collection. Everything is based One of the things that I like about starting my own on the concept of movement. The idea is to have brand is that I have to go beyond design. I have to two shades of colours that are articulated. The come up with a business plan, work on a budget technique to make the stones move is internationally and meet buyers. It can be hard at first but once patented by our brand. you learn how to do it, it becomes easy. I have always been fascinated with jewellery that has that “wow” effect. It’s something unexpected JNA: Who are your target customers? and that’s what I want in my jewellery. If you are only Cabirou: Everyone. Ideally, I’d like to work with going to do something that everyone is doing, then one shop per city since I believe customers also there’s no point in taking risks to launch your own appreciate that exclusivity. I am very much open to line. I’ve decided to go for it since what I have is exploring different cities and different countries. JNA something that no one else has.

JNA: What’s your definition of jewellery? 1. Dancing Double Clip earring Cabirou: A beautiful experience. I like the idea of 2. Dancing ring and Dancing cuff bracelet “living” jewellery. In addition to giving my jewellery 3. Marie Cabirou, founder of Marie Mas movement, I also gave them exceptional colours. 4. Swivelling bracelets The colour gradient works beautifully with my 5. Swinging earrings carefully selected gemstones. My Dancing Soft 6. Dancing Soft bracelet bracelet, for example, is made up of different 7. Dancing cuff bracelet stones, namely African, Brazilian and pink All jewellery pieces by Marie Mas ; pink ; London Blue ; Swiss Blue topaz; Sky Blue topaz and blue moon quartz. Once the buyers see my jewellery pieces To know more about the jewellery industry’s moving, they are really drawn to them. I have design stars, log on received positive feedback from the shops, and I am very happy with how things have jewellerynewsasia.com turned out.

︱July 2017 39 TECHNOLOGY

Jewellery tools trader remains resourceful amid uncertainties

to the Internet, the 3D printer as housing funds to our employees becomes remotely controllable, in accordance with laws and which translates to quick regulations in China. turnaround time. Apart from that, The general consumption the new models, S350 and S370, pattern has likewise changed. In are highly precised. The S350 the past, jewellery was a preferred Solidscape S350 high-precision 3D printer model is the most accurate 3D gift but now buyers are faced distributed by Double Technology Ltd printer by far. Its layering capability with many other options including By Chris Wong could be as accurate as 0.006mm. smartphones. The supporting material we use The emergence of online stablished in 2003, Double is also soluble in water. This means jewellers is also a challenge. With Technology Ltd offers a wide we could produce a mould in any the development of e-commerce, Erange of modern jewellery shape. For instance, we can produce these companies are able to save manufacturing equipment including a sphere wrapped in another sphere. on overhead costs, which in turn, hardware and software products This is not possible if the supporting allows them to offer products at imported mainly from Germany, material is not water soluble. very competitive prices. Japan and the US. In an interview with JNA, JNA: What is the difference JNA: How do you cope with the Alf Wong, managing director of between S350 and S370? situation? Double Technology, discussed the Wong: S350 excels in precision but Wong: We have to be flexible. In company’s latest products and it takes time to print while S370 is terms of price points, our hands are business strategies in the region. less precise but able to deliver results tied since we are agents. Therefore, more quickly. It all depends on the expanding our client base is crucial JNA: What are your major client’s request. If precision is what to our business. We participated in markets? they are after, we will recommend several innovation and technology Alf Wong: Our top markets are S350. If timeliness is their concern, exhibitions to explore opportunities mainland China, Hong Kong then S370 will be their better option. in other industries, and we and Taiwan, but the bulk of our succeeded. We are now taking business is in China. Besides the JNA: What do you think are orders from clients in the dentistry Greater China region, we also have the challenges in the jewellery field. We will continue these clients in the Middle East () and machinery sector at the initiatives to reach as many potential Eastern Europe (). moment? clients as possible. JNA Wong: We are facing a JNA: There are two new number of challenges. models of Solidscape 3D To begin with, clients are printers, which are among your becoming more cautious bestsellers. Could you tell us about spending due to more about these products? macroeconomic uncertainties, Wong: The latest models have leading to a reduced number three main features. The first of orders during exhibitions. one is advanced automation. 3D At the same time, labour printers are highly user-friendly, with cost is also on the rise. a one- operation system, The industry is dependent which allows the user to pre-set on labour from mainland all parameters. When connected China. We provide benefits such Mould in production

40 ︱July 2017 TECHNOLOGY

Manufacturer presents 3D resin printer

hours of working life,” said Yihui suppliers of integrated lost . “It also has a large casting solutions, and manufacturers

3D printer from Guangzhou Yihui Casting printing area.” of jewellery casting machines Technology Co Ltd The device likewise has a and materials. Yihui Casting also controllable LED source and light- supplies graphite products. uangzhou Yihui Casting curing material in order to achieve “Relying on the Yihui brand, Technology Co Ltd is optimum printing results, noted the our company provides casting Gturning the spotlight on company. It is also equipped with products to a wide range of a new 3D printer that it said is the latest technology that prevents worldwide clients. We are also capable of printing resin models damaging of the printed resin. The agents of world-renowned with “excellent” contours. 3D printer also helps control material manufacturers of jewellery tools The device, specifically shrinkage to less than 0.1mm. and consumables. Our product designed for jewellery “The surface of the printed portfolio covers all jewellery-making manufacturers, is mainly used for resin comes out very smooth. procedures,” it noted. jewellery casting, hot or cold mould Most importantly, our resin is 100 Yihui Casting has customers in vulcanising, and high-volume percent vaporised, making it easy Southeast Asia, the Middle East, production, the company said. to cast. This also contributes to Europe and the US. “Our 3D resin printer has a perfect metal casting effect,” The company said it numerous advantages including remarked Yihui Casting. opened branches and shops in high accuracy, reliability and Established in 2003, Yihui Guangzhou, Dongguan, Shenzhen, efficiency; sharp and clear Casting has become one of the Yiwu and Hong Kong to better resolution; and more than 25,000 most reliable and professional serve its customers. JNA

Innovative device from Hong Kong distributor uen Kee Ho Machinery Ltd of elements can be easily place, depending on Hong Kong recently added the done as well as repairs material and setting. Ylatest welding technology from to jewellery parts, restoring In addition to Germany to its product portfolio. missing parts or filling of alloys The new PUK 5 , pores by applying welding such as gold, silver developed specifically for , it added. and platinum; non- , is used to weld on The PUK 5 is able ferrous such as findings, add metal, fill porosity to produce anything and tin alloys; , and attach workpieces prior to from the smallest of titanium and aluminium , among other functions, repairs to volume alloys are also suitable PUK 5 welding device according to the company. production, and one- for welding. All alloys The upgraded version has an of-a-kind creations, the company suitable for laser or TIG welding can operating concept that combines said, citing data from German also be welded with the PUK 5. the advantages of a modern manufacturer Lampert. “It also makes it easier to touchscreen with a tried-and-tested As soon as the tip of the choose the parameter settings for operation via a rotary controller. electrode of the welding hand welding of different products. This The PUK 5 precision welding piece touches the workpiece, product likewise results in improved equipment places a whole host the welding process starts smoothness of the surface by of possible applications for jewellery automatically. At the contact point, adjusting the welding speed. It is production at the user’s fingertips, under an inert gas atmosphere, a especially designed for welding of according to the company. melting process with a diameter of ring junctions, threading positions Structures made from sheet or wire between 0.3mm and 3.0mm takes and bails,” added Yuen Kee Ho. JNA

︱July 2017 41 TECHNOLOGY

Modern jewellery photography solutions from Flex Line The company explained that the device now offers APS5, “works like a live box. Place the an innovative piece of jewellery into the box software that and the device will capture, fine helps companies tune and save the image in the produce high- software – all within two minutes. resolution digital All you need to do is mount a shots faster camera on the box and you can and more start taking photos like a pro. conveniently. Apart from high-resolution photos The software against a white background, offers a focus-stacking function, the software also allows Alo Photo Scan renewed interface, video creation, 3D-animated videos.” lex Line Tech Ltd is product database, catalogue The catalogue producer and presenting Alo Photo Scan or wizard and a function that allows image database, a plugin for APS, FAPS system – a combination the user to create interactive is the “fastest” way to organise of jewellery photography hardware videos, among other features. digital pictures and create user- and software aimed at meeting the In a previous interview, the defined page settings, according to diverse needs of jewellery traders. company’s Marco Carboni Flex Line. JNA

HK company offers weighing scale, microscopy camera ubin & Son (HK) GCL-603i is highly software. It captures images Ltd is providing adaptable to fast working directly onto an SD memory card Ra wide range processes and different or connect an external monitor of innovative tools for environmental conditions, through the HDMI output.” jewellery manufacturers. and still provides Users can utilise a computer Among the consistently reliable at the same time by simply company’s product and accurate results, connecting the camera through offerings is GCL- according to the company. the USB port for 603i, a carat-weighing scale GCL-603i Rubin & Son is also simultaneous image from Sartorius of Germany. offering a Motic microscopy transmission. The product, a successor of the camera with HDMI and USB “MotiCam 1080 GD-603, has a 600-carat capacity connectivity or MotiCam-1080 works not only in its and 0.001-carat readability. from China. As an affordable, Motic “GCL-603i now comes with a multi-tasking microscopy camera, family but could fully automatic, built-in calibration and MotiCam 1080 provides flexibility also attach to adjustment function as well as a in connectivity options and most popular shield (wind shield) with a weighing convenient on-board software in MotiCam-1080 chamber height of 160mm only. but still maintains a high-definition the market; this This footprint can fit into any shops 1920 by 1080 pixel image quality, would greatly and trading offices,” noted Rubin the HK-based firm said. help jewellers, & Son. “It offers secure operating “It does not require a computer diamond and procedures and precise weighing for standard operations as the gemstone results, which are indispensable for user can make image adjustments dealers and determining the weight of diamonds and capture an image straight laboratory technicians,” noted and gemstones.” through the camera’s on-board Rubin & Son. JNA

42 ︱July 2017 TRADE FAIRS June Hong th Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Buyers at the 30

Fine gems, innovative designs shine at June HK Fair

n expansive selection of top-quality gemstones and fine jewellery dazzled buyers at the 30th edition of the A June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Renowned as one of Asia’s top three fine jewellery events, the fair featured almost 2,100 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions who displayed a comprehensive collection of fine finished jewellery, diamonds, pearls, coloured gemstones and packaging products, tools and equipment. This year’s edition also showcased an enhanced product portfolio that included fashion jewellery and jewellery. The CORE Pavilion – a dedicated area for jewellery companies that have supported jewellery and gem fairs in Hong Kong over the years and consider Diamond and Hong Kong as the platform from which they grow their coloured gemstone businesses – was likewise unveiled at the show. ring by PIN Hong Kong Ltd Sparkling gems Taiwan-based Rare Gems presented its latest collection of gem- quality rubies and sapphires. One of the gemstone expert’s finest offerings was a rare, unheated 5.04-carat “Pigeon’s blood” Burmese ruby, according to company owner Monto Badhalia. The 5.04-carat “Pigeon’s blood” Burmese ruby was described in a GRS report as a stone possessing of a “very rare combination of size (5.04 carats), excellent colour variety, good brilliancy and transparency, and spared of thermal enhancement. Important Rubies from Mogok over 5 carats are rarities.” The ruby was valued at $500,000 or about $100,000 per carat. Rare Gems also showcased a selection of one-of-a- kind unheated sapphires, including a stunning ring set with a 19-carat Sri Lankan sapphire adorned with pear- shaped diamonds. Valued at around $100,000, the sapphire can also be worn as a pendant.

Sapphire and diamond earrings by Edelweiss Jewellery Company Ltd

︱July 2017 TRADE FAIRS

“We have established very good connections with miners and gemstone manufacturers, and this is the reason why we have access to very rare gems,” Badhalia said. “I have been dealing in Burmese rubies for the last 25 years. Whenever a top-quality stone is recovered, the miners call me right away.” An extensive selection of rubies and sapphires ranging from calibrated goods and spectacular single stones to eye-catching layouts, meanwhile, graced the display windows of Sukhadia Stones Co Ltd of Thailand. The company presented an 11.81-carat no-heat

“Pigeon’s blood” Burmese ruby and a 9.02-carat Chiku Sukhadia of Sukhadia Stones and Bertrand Ternat, no-heat “Pigeon’s blood” ruby from Mozambique. The owner of Perles Ternat company also offered a wide range of calibrated goods. According to Managing Director Chiku Sukhadia, on the rise, with prices and market reach doubling the company was targeting buyers from Hong Kong, over the past 10 years. China and other Asian markets at the show. “A pearl is a natural pearl from the Sukhadia said demand had slowed down Caribbean. These pink pearls have gained immense this year for big-ticket items costing over popularity over the years and continue to find their way half a million dollars. The market, instead, in the fine jewellery collections of major designers and was opting for smaller-sized stones of jewellers,” noted Ternat. good quality. “The bulk of our business Perles Ternat has a solid customer base in Asia, this year has been in calibrated sizes. particularly China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan. The company also has clients from the Polished ruby from SVD Gems Co Ltd; sapphires US and Europe. from Blue Gems Co Ltd “There’s also a big potential in Southeast Asia. I see more and more people from , Malaysia and Thailand becoming interested in conch pearls,” continued Ternat.

Classic and elegant designs Jewellery manufacturers and designers also displayed their creative flair at the June Hong Kong Fair. The Chinese market has been asking for top-quality, A sparkling collection of fine diamond and coloured calibrated rubies and sapphires. Of the single stones, gemstone jewellery top-billed Hong Kong-based Universal demand has been stronger for those sized from 2 carats Jewellery Co Ltd’s product offerings at the show. to 8 carats,” he noted. According to Lydia Kwan, director of Universal Diamonds likewise made waves at the show. Jewellery, the company also showcased a special Diamond dealer Khyati Gems (HK) Ltd drew buyers’ collection of jadeite and diamond jewellery in refined attention to its stunning collection of Argyle blue and designs. pink diamonds between 5 and 20 points and yellow diamonds from 0.50 carat to 10 carats in all colour intensities. Company director Jayesh Kavathiya noted that demand for and prices of fancy yellow diamonds have softened in the past year, but pink diamonds were still moving well. “People have been buying on an order- basis rather than to build stock. The smaller stones are currently our top sellers but there is still also demand for special stones,” he remarked. Perles Ternat of Hong Kong, meanwhile, shone the spotlight on an expansive selection of conch pearls. According to Bertrand Ternat, owner of Perles Ternat, demand for top-quality conch pearls has been An exhibitor happily chats with a buyer at the show

︱July 2017 TRADE FAIRS

10 mounting companies. There were also eight other Turkish companies that participated in the show. Su-Raj Inter Gold (HK) displayed an eclectic selection of sophisticated diamond jewellery offered at competitive prices. According to the company, price-point items are highly sought after by clients who want value for their money. “We recognise that buyers have become more selective and price-conscious, and since we always aim to stay ahead of the competition, we have

Anik Shah, left, and Sara Kazimi of Élete Jewelry; and Lydia Kwan, developed an expansive line of price-point products left, and Jane Li of Universal Jewellery Co Ltd that sports a big look but is more affordable. These items move the fastest,” noted Su-Raj. Established in 1947, the jewellery manufacturer is The company unveiled a number of new known for its fine jewellery pieces featuring an elegant collections at the show including Monalisa, Embrace, combination of classic and contemporary designs. It Woo, Mirrari, Glide and 3 Generation studs. specialises in top-quality coloured gemstone jewellery “Despite challenging times, we remain upbeat about adorned with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, business prospects at this year’s trade fair. We take pride jadeites, , pearls and aquamarines. in the quality of our products as well as our business Universal Jewellery trained its sights on the US, model, which is very transparent,” added the company. European and Southeast Asian markets at the fair. Su-Raj said its strength lies in its customers, Kwan also cited more stability in the jewellery adding that their loyalty, support and cooperation aid industry, compared to last year, adding that the company in developing new designs and keeping opportunities still abound even during challenging its competitive edge. times. “We are always looking for ways to further “Our relationship with our customers goes beyond strengthen the business,” she added. the delivery of products. We go out of our way to give Ultimate Jewels Co Ltd of Thailand, meanwhile, them after-sales services by helping them effectively impressed buyers with its vast selection of diamond market product concepts, for instance. We provide jewellery in 18-karat gold in classic designs. them catalogues to help them explain the products to Ultimate Jewels Director Samir Patel said the their customers with and confidence, and sell company eyed potential clients from the US and faster,” remarked Su-Raj. Europe at the fair. The company’s major market is the The manufacturer revealed that it likewise regularly Middle East. invests in modern machinery to further strengthen its The jeweller offered diamond and production process. Su-Raj has a strong customer statement rings in traditional designs, featuring base in Asia. JNA Ultimate Jewel’s signature illusion setting using baguette and round diamonds. “Classic jewellery Diamond pieces never go out of style and are always highly jewellery sought after,” he noted. set from the The company’s main product is 18-karat white gold Embrace jewellery, adorned with G- to H-colour diamonds of Collection of VS quality. Among its most popular products are long Su-Raj Inter necklaces, pieces with various fancy-cut diamonds as Gold (HK) well as earrings, ring and necklace sets. Turkish jewellers, meanwhile, presented a vast collection of gold and diamond jewellery. According to the Turkish Jewellery Exporters’ Association (JTR), aimed to further expand Turkey’s market reach in Asia, Europe and with the participation of 21 major companies at the Turkish Pavilion. JTR’s Fatih Saricaoglu said the pavilion hosted 11 gold and diamond jewellery manufacturers, and

︱July 2017 5 TRADE FAIRS

Trendy collections, gems glitter at Las Vegas show

By Marie Feliciano

ine and trendy jewellery collections, F and gem-quality gemstones basked in the Las Vegas limelight as buyers’ appetite for top-end and fashionable goods remains firm. Niveet Nagpal of

California-based Omi Diamond jewellery by Magnificence. Privé and Omi Gems Magnificence is H. K. Designs’ new brand said customer response to his fine coloured gemstone jewellery At JCK Las Vegas, H. K. Designs likewise drew pieces was positive. The attention to its new jewellery brand, Magnificence. company, which has won “Magnificence has a very simple yet unique several accolades for setting style,” said the brand’s Nidhi Dangayach. “The its one-of-a-kind gems, diamond is sealed into the centre of an elegant glass presented pieces set Niveet Nagpal of California- lens, which magnifies the stone’s size and beauty.” with alexandrite, based Omi Privé and Omi Gems The innovative lens captures and amplifies light to and classic stones at JCK presents one of his exceptional create a “glowing, extravagant piece of jewellery from Luxury. sapphire rings an otherwise modest stone,” the company said. “Alexandrite is one of my favourite gemstones. It The design and technology – its patent is pending is such a unique and rare stone with colour-change – allows small stones to appear significantly larger and properties, and it’s becoming increasingly rare,” Nagpal more radiant, it noted. For instance, a 0.50-carat stone said. “I also love spinel, a bright and beautiful stone has the appearance of a 1-carat diamond, making it that comes in so many different colours. It is very appear twice its original size, Dangayach explained. similar to sapphire but even brighter. It comes from so Hasu Dholakiya, president of H. K. Designs, many different places and in many different colours commented, “We expect that this new innovative that they give you so much versatility in design. I think collection will be a game-changer and revolutionise the the value has gone up for spinel as more and more industry.” people learn what it is, but I think it is undervalued Most of the exhibitors interviewed by JNA said for how beautiful it is. It is less expensive than the show registered less foot traffic compared with rubies and sapphires but it’s rarer and more the previous year but the buyers who showed up beautiful. I still think there is a lot more room were serious and came with shopping lists. Diamond, for spinel to grow.” coloured gemstone and finished jewellery suppliers

46 ︱July 2017 TRADE FAIRS

Suppliers of coloured gemstones in calibrated sizes did relatively well at the show. Thailand-based China Stone said orders for fancy sapphires were up, adding that the company secured new business from small- and medium-sized jewellers. Dealers of sapphire, emerald and ruby said business remained steady although some buyers found emerald prices too steep recently due to tight supply. According to the show organiser, JCK drew more than 30,500 industry professionals. The weeklong event was shifted from its traditional day pattern to accommodate several hundred of JCK’s exhibitors From left: Chi Huynh, artist and founder of Galatea: Jewelry by who observed the Jewish Shavuot Holiday. Artist; Li Chongjie, founder and CEO of China Stone Co Ltd LUXURY, JCK’s high-end event that opened by said they received the most enquiries for sellable invitation only three days beforehand, featured a goods – entry-level diamond and coloured gemstone design component, with its new “Design @ LUXURY” jewellery – and high-end pieces for collectors. Those section. LUXURY featured 248 exhibiting brands and offering “edgier” and on-trend collections said they an increase in retailer attendance with 2,600 retailers were happy with their sales results. attending its invitation days, the organiser said. JCK Steven Rahimi, owner of New York-based Steven was home to over 2,178 exhibiting vendors and Royce and a JCK Luxury exhibitor, came to the fair welcomed 19,200 retailers. “Although attendance with realistic expectations. “If I go home with two to was slightly down over the previous year, initial three new customers, I’d be happy,” Rahimi said. research shows transactions were well ahead of the Steven Royce specialises in classic collections set previous year,” according to the fair organiser. with quality stones – from emeralds and sapphires to “Buyers came to do business. We have seen alexandrites and tanzanites. and heard positive remarks on the increase in the Overall, vendors who had something different or amount of transactions that took place this year “special” to offer retailers said they did solid business compared to the previous year. The first day of at JCK. JCK was just as strong as previous opening days, Chi Huynh, artist and founder of Galatea: Jewelry matching the same attendance figures we are by Artist, said his booth was “the busiest at the show” used to seeing. In a world where we are seeing because he was offering something extraordinary. retail stores closing at an alarming rate, it is also The company, known for its Galatea carved pearls, refreshing to see over 1,200 new stores attend JCK launched several pieces including its Pomegranate for the first time,” said Yancy Weinrich, senior vice Pearl pendant and earrings, which are part of the president of JCK. JNA brand’s Pearl Berries Collection. The hand-carved Tahitian pearls are studded with tiny pink and set in 14-karat gold. Another innovative collection is Galatea’s Bird’s Nest Pearl, which comes in many sizes and pearl colours. The baroque pearls are carved and adorned with druzy stone in their crevices, a tiny pearl and a golden bird. “What you can find from us is available nowhere else,” Chi said. Meanwhile, diamond manufacturers noted that most of the buyers placed orders for “sure-fire” goods – SI, Triple Ex, H-I colour stones – from 50 points and above. Diamond buyers, however, were not keen on further up their existing inventories. “They only buy what they can sell,” according to an Israeli From left: Hemant Phophaliya of AG Color; Jason supplier. “People remain cautious.” Rahimi of Steven Royce

︱July 2017 47

PEARLS

Japan intensifies global pearl promotion

By Bernardette Sto. Domingo is aimed at further reinforcing Japan’s pearl sector, with emphasis apan is showing no signs of on advances in processing slowing down as it takes a major and distribution, research and Jstep in further strengthening its development, export and global reputation as the world’s trading hub competitiveness. for cultured pearls. Under the law, Japan’s In an interview with JNA, Ministers of Agriculture, Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the and Fishery and of Economy, Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association Trade and Industry are in (JPEA), talked about the country’s of crafting a basic plan to improve extensive marketing initiatives and fortify the country’s loose pearl Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the specifically geared towards Asia and pearl jewellery industries. Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association as well as the latest trends and “The government is prepared challenges in the pearl sector. to support the campaign through Demand sufficient funding. We are thinking Shimizu also underscored the Japan’s pearls of doing something big at the June importance of putting in place such According to Shimizu, Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair a massive marketing initiative to stakeholders of Japan’s pearl next year,” noted Shimizu. further spur demand for pearls. industry recently met with He also said Japan’s marketing Citing results of the June Hong Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo and promotion efforts are primarily Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the Abe to discuss the Japan Pearl directed towards Asia, specifically pearl specialist said buyers seemed Promotion Law. China. “The US and Europe are to gravitate towards South Sea “The law will be implemented still recovering so we have to focus pearls since there is a shortage in officially in July by setting up three on other markets. Bulk of the supply of top-quality Tahitian pearls. major committees: A farmers’ promotions will be concentrated on Loose pearls also moved faster committee; a committee of pearl Asia,” the JPEA official continued. than pearl necklaces, he added. distributors, including exporters; Shimizu also disclosed that “There is a shift in customer and a committee on and the industry is in talks with Tokyo preference to white, yellow and promotion,” revealed the JPEA official. Olympic and Paralympic Games golden South Sea pearls, which “These will set the scene towards Minister Tamayo Marukawa about pushed the demand for South Sea the full implementation of the law.” the possibility of promoting pearls pearls. Buyers, however, continue to The law, signed in June last year, during the Tokyo Olympics in 2020. be price-conscious,” noted Shimizu. The Chinese market prefers round to near-round pearls in smaller sizes of 8mm, 9mm or 10mm. Prices are pegged at $50 to $70 per piece or lower. “There are people willing to pay $120 per piece at most for better- quality pieces in bigger sizes of 13mm, 14mm or 15mm. Some are looking for top-grade, clean goods that cost around $200 to $250 per piece but these are no longer easy to The Japanese Pearl Pavilion at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair supply,” revealed the pearl expert. JNA

50 ︱July 2017 PEARLS Japan showcases Filipino artistry with Rajo Laurel and Jewelmer

or the first time since 1964, national gem of the . the Philippine Embassy in The event was held on June 12 FJapan hosted a momentous at the Imperial Hotel in Chiyoda, fashion show presenting the best Tokyo. Singers Denise Laurel, of Philippine culture. Nicole Laurel-Asensio and Jojo Honouring the inauguration of Urquico treated the guests with a new Philippine ambassador in inspired musical performances. Japan, Jose C. Laurel V, in time Filipino models took the runway, Miss Universe Philippines 2016 Maxine for Philippine Independence Day, parading couture gowns that Medina wears one of Jewelmer’s most the event showcased two of the conveyed the artistry of Rajo iconic creations: The Miss Universe country’s foremost icons: Leading Laurel, and Jewelmer’s creations Philippines headpiece Filipino designer expressing the natural Rajo Laurel and wonder of the golden Meanwhile, Jewelmer recently Jewelmer, a South Sea pearl. launched its ad campaign luxury jewellery Miss Universe highlighting the pearl of the modern brand highlighting Philippines 2016 woman through a video and a the golden South Maxine Medina led the series of beautifully captured Sea pearl. ensemble, wearing photographs. A Manila- one of Jewelmer’s “The Jewelmer woman is subtly based fashion most iconic creations: elegant; she has an appreciation designer, Rajo The Miss Universe for luxury and a genuine Laurel specialises Philippines headpiece, relationship with her pearls,” in haute couture featuring a cluster said Jewelmer brand manager creations that of golden pearls Marion Branellec. “This campaign have been worn evoking the glory of celebrates women who are by celebrated a natural treasure. empowered, confident and loving.” personalities, from Inspired by vintas, Set in three different scenarios the likes of former colourful sailboats – a cruise, a boardroom and an international model in the Philippines, evening gala – the campaign and TV personality the piece alludes to presents the Jewelmer woman Tyra Banks and the country’s vibrant at the helm of affairs and Hollywood actress history and culture. commanding attention. Taraji Henson to As the event “We wanted to come out with Miss International welcomed Japan’s something modern and fresh while A model dons a Rajo Laurel 2016 Kylie Verzosa. creation and fine jewellery new Philippine still staying authentic to our heritage,” International luxury pieces by Jewelmer ambassador, it Branellec said. “We wanted to break brand Jewelmer has introduced guests misperceptions that pearls are only been offering high jewellery that to the artistry, talent and natural for ball occasions. Pearls are combines the poetry of French wonder of the Philippines, the versatile gems that can up any design and the natural wonder country long hailed as the “Pearl of look by enhancing the natural beauty of the golden pearl, hailed as the the Orient Seas.” of a woman.” JNA

︱July 2017 51

GEMSTONES

Dealers see sparkling demand outlook for emeralds

By Bernardette Sto. Domingo and Marie Feliciano

n emerald’s vivid green colour and regal allure have long enthralled a great number A of gemstone collectors and jewellery connoisseurs for thousands of years. This beloved gemstone – strongly associated with lush terrains and rich greenery – has consistently found its way to royal families’ , iconic high jewellery collections and international auctions. In June, the stunning 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, previously owned by the prominent Rockefeller clan, fetched $5.51 million at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York. Marcelo Ribeiro of The stone, described as having a Belmont Mine holds “mesmerising colour and impeccable clarity,” up a 49.58-carat cat’s- originated from – home to the eye emerald. Notice famed Muzo emerald district, which has the emerald’s sharp produced some of the world’s most ‘eye’ and colour captivating, deep green emeralds. In this issue, JNA talks to major gemstone dealers about the latest trends, opportunities and challenges in the global emerald trade.

Business outlook A 49.58-carat Brazilian mine-to-market emerald specialist cat’s-eye emerald Belmont said the market’s unrelenting love for from ’s emeralds has driven demand, which has been Belmont Mine robust and growing steadily in the last two years. Belmont Mine Director Marcelo Ribeiro commented, “Prices are stable and the market is very healthy. We are very optimistic about the demand outlook for emeralds. Emeralds are the ‘new diamonds.’ Emerald has a name that sells since it is recognised worldwide for its rarity and beauty.” Ribeiro added that global emerald production is projected to record a drop in 2017 compared with the previous year. “We expect a slight shortage of supply of some shapes by the end of the year. Most probably, buyers will have difficulty high-quality single stones and high-quality calibrated stones. Rounds, emerald cuts and cushions are very much in demand,” he said. In Greater China, fine-quality stones in calibrated sizes, especially emeralds within the 0.50-carat to 2-carat range, are moving faster than before. Cat’s-eye emeralds are also performing strongly in this Emerald-green lake in Coron, Palawan, Philippines lake in Coron, Emerald-green

︱July 2017 53 GEMSTONES

market, he continued. At the more reason to buy jewellery. Consumers 30th edition of the June Hong are assured that they are doing Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, something good when buying the company showcased an gemstones from responsible exceptional 49.58-carat cat’s-eye sources. We expect this project emerald, which possesses a sharp to boost the demand for “eye” and alluring colour. responsibly sourced stones.” Belmont is also working in partnership with Gübelin Green sophistication No-oil emeralds Gem Lab on the latter’s Despite continued uncertainties of 7.22 carats Emerald Paternity Test, a in the global gemstone and jewellery and a 6.88-carat new traceability technology emerald from industry, high-quality goods such as “creating independent proof of Michael Gad clean, no-oil emeralds remain highly provenance for emeralds.” The Emerald sought after in the market, according technology uses customised to Rami Sulemanoff, vice president DNA-based nanoparticles enabling traceability of of US-based emerald trader Michael Gad Emerald. emeralds back to the exact place of . Sulemanoff said a decline in the supply of mid- According to Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of range quality goods, coupled with weaker overall the Gübelin Gem Lab, the technology is based on demand, was recorded in the beginning of 2017 but a new type of nanomaterials that are inserted in the dealers consistently sold top-grade stones. gemstone directly at the mine. “These particles are “Demand has shifted towards higher-quality stones invisible even to the best optical microscope and can such as no-oil emeralds. Customers are acquiring store all relevant information about the specific mine, a more discerning eye and are interested in pieces mining company and mining period,” noted Nyfeler. that they know will still be valuable despite fluctuating “These nanoparticles are built to survive the usual financial markets,” he said. processes of cutting, treating, mounting and can be The gemstone specialist said 5-carat to 10-carat retrieved at any stage down the supply chain and goods valued at around $5,000 to $15,000 a carat decoded to determine the exact provenance.” are moving the fastest, adding that demand for no-oil stones remains consistent across all sizes. Devan Haldiya of Hong Kong-based Global Links also cited a robust market for emeralds, particularly stones of the highest quality from Colombia. “The first six months of the year proved to be positive for the emerald industry. We are seeing signs of improvement in the trade. Colombian emeralds remain popular, especially the top-range, no-oil, Muzo-green goods. The challenge now is finding a market for the lower-quality stones,” noted the Emerald ring company official. Buyers mainly go for emerald cuts while a wide Belmont and Gübelin Gem Lab are currently range of sizes – from half a carat to 20 carats and up finalising some logistical arrangements, Ribeiro said. – is likewise in demand. “Our plan is to have all Belmont emeralds undergo The company’s major markets are China, Hong the Emerald Paternity Test starting from 2018. Kong and Thailand but it is eyeing to expand its reach We want our emeralds to carry the DNA-based to other Southeast Asian countries such as Cambodia nanoparticles, which allow Gübelin Gem Lab to identify or Indonesia. the emeralds’ origins,” he said. “The Chinese market only has eyes for exceptional “The project a new era in the gemstone emeralds so we need to find new markets to sell industry. Jewellers will be able to assure the market our other goods, particularly the mid- to lower-range of the provenance of their emeralds. Consumers will stones,” noted Haldiya. “We are participating in more get a glimpse of the history of the stones. We have international fairs to find new areas of business. The now the opportunity to separate responsible sources global economy is still down and people’s purchasing for gemstones from those that are not creating value power has become weaker so we need to diversify for . We can now give younger people one and be more aggressive.”

54 ︱July 2017 GEMSTONES

quality goods that cost between $25 per carat to $1,000 per carat,” revealed the company official. He added that Asians also favour cabochons in a lighter shade of green because they resemble jade, which is an auspicious stone in China. Prices also pose a challenge for gemstone traders, according to Reyes. “Even with less demand and a generally weaker economy, prices have increased by 15 percent to 20 percent from last year,” he stated. “We hope that

Marcela Reyes, left, Enith Cancelado and Guillermo Reyes of G & D Trade Inc

New markets Guillermo Reyes, president of New York-based G & D Trade Inc, meanwhile, underscored the enduring appeal of the emerald as a gemstone of beauty and value. “Why do people love emeralds? It’s because green is the most captivating colour in the world. It means everything – nature, life, hope. It’s soothing to the eye and it makes the observer feel refreshed and at peace,” noted Reyes. “There will always be demand for top-notch stones from Colombia.” Rough and polished emeralds The gemstone specialist mainly sells to the US, Asia and India. improvements in the market will soon materialise but “Chinese buyers want 1-carat to 2-carat no-oil it depends on the global economy. It’s always good stones in emerald cut while American clients look for to be optimistic and that’s why we continue to attend big sizes such as 20-carat to 25-carat gem-quality, trade shows and look for new customers. China has no-oil stones. These sell for $10,000 per carat and a huge potential and we want to take advantage of up. India, meanwhile, is on the lookout for commercial- business opportunities there.” Emerald House Ltd of Hong Kong also sees strong demand for fine-quality stones. The dealer presented at the June Hong Kong Fair a 30.95-carat pear- shaped emerald from Afghanistan. The company’s Ratnesh Tambi said the special emerald originates from the Panjshir mine. “This emerald stands out in terms of cut and intensity of colour. If you look closely, the stone has inclusions, which is a natural occurrence in emeralds. The colour is vivid green and the shape is exceptional,” noted Tambi. The company also has other top-quality emeralds in its inventory including layouts and matched pairs. “It is extremely challenging to find stones of matching colours and sizes. These are very rare,” Tambi added.

Zambian gems Sarvesh Sonkia of emerald dealer Blue Star HK said emeralds continue to display their lustre in the fine gemstone and jewellery world, thanks to their historical Zambian emeralds from Blue Star HK significance and popularity.

︱July 2017 55 GEMSTONES

“Auction houses have “A lot of people are drawn to showcased mesmerising emeralds because green is such a emeralds over the last six to magical colour. It’s elegant and fresh eight months and this has at the same time,” said Jain. “We inspired a lot of curiosity about steady movement in the emerald the stone,” remarked Sonkia. business during the first half of the The company offers year.” mainly Zambian emeralds but Sunlight Gems’ strongest its inventory also includes markets are the US, Europe and Colombian emeralds. Southeast Asia. A model dons a set of “Colombian emeralds “We have a manufacturing emerald jewellery continue to be the most facility in India so we produce sought-after stones but we are seeing a lot all shapes and sizes, including of Chinese buyers becoming more interested fancy and regular sizes. We in high-quality Zambian emeralds,” he offer a diverse product portfolio, added. “They are curious about these equally which gives us an advantage. fascinating emeralds from . They find The prices are a bit higher these stones attractive, highly accessible and now compared to last year more competitively priced.” but we’re still doing business Potential customers may not readily buy because top-quality goods will but they are “seriously considering” such an always have a following,” Jain alternative to Colombian emeralds, noted continued. Sonkia. The company official also Emerald House Ltd According to the Gemological Institute of America expressed confidence that the of Hong Kong’s (GIA), Colombian emeralds are said to have a warmer market will continue to move 30.95-carat pear- and more intense pure green colour while Zambian shaped emerald upward in the second half of emeralds are deemed to have a cooler, more bluish- from Afghanistan the year as buyers prepare for green colour. the holidays. “We are hoping Blue Star HK mainly sells to China, for a better outcome towards the end of the year. Taiwan, Hong Kong and the Middle Companies need to remain proactive and train their East. Its major market, however, is sights on new markets to strengthen their businesses,” the Greater China region. noted Jain. “There’s potential in India as For his part, Michael Gad’s Sulemanoff said the well but Indian buyers are mostly emerald trade has remained strong over the years interested in lower-quality goods, and this trend is expected to continue throughout which are under $300 per carat. There the year. are rich individuals, however, who “We anticipate a consistent increase in demand Polished emerald buy single items, which cost a few for finer-quality goods while we also expect the supply hundred thousand dollars or even a from Colombia to remain limited,” he noted. “Emeralds million dollars,” remarked Sonkia. are valued for their deep rich green colour. Historically, He revealed that a certain percentage of Zambian many Middle Eastern and Asian cultures associate emerald production has recently been found to be them with fertility and financial success. Emeralds almost identical in colour to Colombian emeralds. are also mentioned throughout ancient Egyptian and “Emerald is a very calming colour since green has Greek mythologies for their healing powers, and this always been known to soothe the eyes. The colour rich historical past appeals to a great deal of people.” also goes well with a lot of things that’s why emerald is Asia, US and the Middle East are seen to drive the most flexible stone. If I want a collection of 5-carat growth in the emerald industry, he added. JNA sizes, that’s easily doable. For jewellery manufacturers, it’s easier to do business since they can make more types of jewellery,” the gemstone expert said. Manoj Jain of Hong Kong-based Zambian emerald For more updates on the emerald trade, log on to dealer Sunlight Gems, also echoed this sentiment, jewellerynewsasia.com adding that the emerald’s rich green hue not only connotes royalty but hope and renewal as well.

56 ︱July 2017

GEMSTONES / Shutterstock Sri Lanka turns l spotlight on fine gems and jewellery Nomad_Sou

his year’s edition of Sri Lanka’s leading international T gem and jewellery show, Facets, is expected to make waves in the gemstone world. Scheduled for August 31 to September 3 at the Sirimavo Bandaranaike Memorial Exhibition Centre in , the 27th edition of Facets will showcase the best of Sri Lanka’s topmost resource, according to the event organiser, the Sri Lanka Gem & Jewelry Association (SLGJA). Facets promises to have something for every budget, from precious gemstones and jewellery to branded and trendy accessories. Over the years, Facets has captured the interest of experts and gemstone enthusiasts worldwide, and this year, the event is set to host an impressive number of international exhibitors featuring merchandise from all over the world, SLGJA said. Last year saw the introduction of the Premier Jewelry Pavilion and the Gem and Jewelry Mart. These features have been added to enhance the depth and breadth of the show’s product offerings, and Buyers check out the gemstones at Sri Lanka’s Facets show ensure that small- and medium- sized jewellery enterprises have a field and about the opportunities industry sub-sectors in Sri Lanka, fair share of the spotlight. Given available in the industry, will also be from mining and manufacturing to the success of these sections, the represented at the show. wholesaling and retailing. organising committee is introducing Held under the According to the association, a Premier Gem Pavilion, which will of President Maithripala Sirisena the country’s international gem display Sri Lanka’s fine gems. who will inaugurate the event, and jewellery show has played The exhibition also features the exhibition is organised by a key role in promoting Sri lapidarist stalls, gem labs and SLGJA in partnership with the Lanka’s gemstone and jewellery booths displaying machinery, government’s National Gem and exports, building strong local and equipment and tools. Industry- Jewelry Authority and the Sri Lanka international trade linkages at every related academic institutions, Export Development Board. SLGJA level of the industry, and fortifying which cater to youngsters who is a private sector organisation its position as a regional coloured are interested in the gemmological representing the interests of all gemstone trading hub. JNA

58 ︱July 2017

DIAMONDS

A love affair with diamonds

De Beers Group CEO sees promising future for his favourite gem

By Marie Feliciano

ruce reflects on his first year De Beers as chief executive officer of the most Group CEO Bfamous name in the jewellery industry. Bruce Cleaver In this Q&A, Cleaver shares his insights on the importance of category-based marketing campaigns that resonate with the “diamond consumers of tomorrow,” the opportunities in the Greater China market, and De Beers’ initiatives to make carbon-neutral mining a reality.

Forevermark and Chow Tai Fook’s Swan Forever Collection

60 ︱July 2017 DIAMONDS

JNA: It’s been a year since you have been At a broader industry level, we were very proud to appointed CEO of De Beers. What were your have played leading roles with the Diamond Producers major accomplishments in your first year on Association’s (DPA) and Gem & Jewellery Export the job? Promotion Council’s marketing campaigns in the US Bruce Cleaver: The past year has seen De Beers and India, respectively, which focused on reinforcing make a number of significant accomplishments the enduring, emotional value of diamonds to the key that will be integral in shaping the future direction millennial market. The campaigns are the first to be run and success of our business. These include at a diamond category level in over a decade. They opening Gahcho Kuè in Canada, the world’s largest focus on a connection between relationships new diamond mine in over a decade. We were and the real, rare nature of diamonds in an increasingly very pleased that the mine reached commercial fast-paced, virtual world. Recently, we announced that production in March, ahead of time and on budget. the DPA’s budget will see a major increase to around In collaboration with our partners in Namibia, we’ve $60 million, and this will provide a major boost to the also inaugurated the mv SS Nujoma, the largest industry’s consumer marketing activities. and most sophisticated diamond sampling and exploration vessel ever built. Meanwhile, good JNA: What were the biggest challenges that progress continues at our major multibillion-dollar tested your mettle during that period? capital expansion projects of Venetia Underground in Cleaver: In today’s increasingly unpredictable world, and Jwaneng Cut-8 in . All of one of the challenges that I believe all business these will play a vital role in supporting this industry’s leaders have to deal with is that of ongoing volatility – future supply needs. whether that be at the economic, political or regulatory Looking downstream, we acquired full ownership level – which can create unexpected situations for of De Beers Diamond Jewellers (DBDJ) for the first businesses and their stakeholders. time since it was established in 2001. Meanwhile, The sudden introduction of demonetisation in India we saw our Forevermark diamond jewellery brand in late 2016 was an example of a political decision surpass 2,000 retail doors globally, cementing it as with good intentions having an unexpected and rapid one of the fastest-growing diamond jewellery brands impact on our business. De Beers responded quickly in the world. We also ran a really strong marketing by offering additional flexibility to our customers to campaign in China, “Live Your Love Today,” under support them in the transition to the new monetary the Forevermark brand over the holiday season. environment. As a result, the impacts of the We’re really proud to have international stars such unexpected situation have been effectively managed as Fan Bingbing and Emma Watson proudly wearing and it appears that the industry has seen more normal Forevermark diamond jewellery. demand conditions return.

Victor Mine

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This requirement to act quickly and Ring and earrings from the Movál Diamond Jewelry respond decisively to change will, Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. The collection I believe, remain both a constant exclusively features Forevermark elongated challenge and an opportunity for all of oval-shaped diamonds, cut to perfection and specific proportions that maximise us in the diamond sector. the stone’s beauty, life, and brilliance JNA: The last few years felt more like a roller coaster ride for diamond industry stakeholders. What is your demand outlook for diamonds in 2017? Are we headed for better times? Cleaver: We are seeing consumer demand in India For example, and China improving after a challenging year in 2016, we must and demand in the key US market remains positive recognise that overall, if a bit patchy. While macro-economic factors consumers are such as exchange rates and economic performance behaving in could impact demand, we believe there will be further, different ways. modest growth this year. One way in which Looking further ahead, the underlying drivers of this has manifested consumer demand remain very strong. The continued itself is with the significant growth in women buying growth of the middle classes in China and India diamond jewellery for themselves. Diamonds are present a major opportunity, and if we make sure we now not only seen as gifts of love, but much more engage with younger consumers in the right way – often women are buying them as symbols of their which is a big focus of our work currently – then there own achievement, status, pride and optimism. Self- is the real potential for a significant increase in global purchase in the US market has grown by almost 50 demand for diamond jewellery over the coming years. percent in the last decade and now accounts for But the good news is that younger consumers are over $10 billion in the market – almost a third of the already expressing strong demand for diamonds – a total women’s diamond jewellery market. We are also few key insights from our research last year highlighted seeing self-purchase increase rapidly in other markets, the following: so we need to be prepared to respond to this change • Millennials spent more than $25 billion on with our product and promotion strategies. diamond jewellery in 2015 in the four largest consumer Meanwhile, the way in which people choose to markets (US, China, India and Japan), acquiring more buy diamonds is also changing fast. We are living than any other generation. through the digital revolution and this is having a big • Despite Millennials facing more financial impact on the balance between “bricks and mortar” challenges than their parents’ generation, they already and online retailing outlets. In the US, we are seeing account for almost half of the total retail value of new mall stores close faster than ever before and in China diamond jewellery acquired in the four largest markets. we know that more than half of all single women • In the top four markets, which account for 73 use the Internet in the diamond purchase process percent of global diamond jewellery demand, the and over 60 percent of affluent Chinese consumers potential Millennial market for diamond jewellery is research their purchases online. more than 220 million people. So the future will definitely look different from the • The Millennial generation is not expected to past, but if we react in the right way as an industry reach its most affluent life stage for another 10 years, to the changes we are seeing, then we have a huge meaning this age cohort represents a significant amount of opportunity in front of us and the future will growth opportunity. be very bright. So there is a very strong platform for further We are fortunate to work with a product that growth, but we must ensure we maximise the potential is inherently desirable, that lends itself very well to of the opportunity in front of us and capitalise fully young consumers’ desire for things that are unique, on the desire that Millennials have for the inherently meaningful and can be linked to experiences, and valuable products we sell. The key for the industry is which is well-set to benefit from the growth of the to recognise that the world is changing and to make middle classes globally. It’s now down to us to make sure we adapt to reflect that. sure we capitalise fully on the opportunity in front of us.

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JNA: It might be too early to tell but have you production comes down. We have already seen this already seen some positive results from DPA’s happen in some categories of Real is Rare campaign? How important is this material, as well as with other synthetic versions of initiative for the natural diamond industry? gemstones such as synthetic sapphires, emeralds Cleaver: The Real is Rare campaign is extremely and rubies. important as it carries out the long-term marketing role that is required to help shape generational attitudes JNA: What is your business outlook for Greater towards diamonds and ensure that younger people China’s diamond jewellery market? Will De Beers continue to see that diamonds, with their inherent be organising Greater China-focused marketing value, are the perfect symbols to represent the most campaigns to further drive demand? important human emotions and occasions. Cleaver: The early part of 2017 so far has seen Most marketing campaigns are focused on the positive growth in demand for diamond jewellery short-term role of these examples driving consumers over Chinese New Year and for the first quarter as into stores ahead of key selling periods. While this a whole. These positive developments have been is important, it’s also crucial that we continue to driven by stronger economic growth, and the current reinforce the connection between diamonds and outlook for the full year 2017 for mainland China commitment in the minds of young consumers. is that we will see some further growth in local Previous category-based marketing campaigns have currency terms. been highly successful in this regard. However, the In terms of our marketing campaigns, while it’s still diamond consumers of tomorrow have very different too early in the year to discuss any detailed plans, purchasing drivers, life paths, views on traditions, we do anticipate running further targeted impactful journeys towards financial maturity and media campaigns in the key consumer markets this year, consumption behaviours compared with their parents, including China of course, following the success of so we need to connect with them in different ways. those we ran last year. This campaign aims to reinforce the connection between diamonds and life’s significant, emotional JNA: Recently, De Beers announced that it is milestones in a way that resonates with the next undertaking a research programme to make generation of consumers. carbon-neutral mining a reality. How significant is And the great news is that while the campaign this project for the diamond mining industry? Do already delivered excellent results in 2016 with a you expect this to be a game-changer? relatively small budget, in 2017 it will have a much Cleaver: We are extremely excited about our bigger amount of money to spend on diamond carbon storage research programme, which has promotion – with the budget increasing to around $60 huge potential to make a real impact on carbon million – so there is a great opportunity for it to make emissions. Not only could De Beers completely even more of an impact this year. offset all of our carbon emissions, but if the technology was adopted by other diamond mining JNA: Do you find advancements in the area of companies, we could ultimately have a carbon- synthetic diamond manufacturing worrisome? Is neutral industry. There is even the potential that the the natural diamond sector at risk of losing some technology could be adopted by mining companies market share from synthetics? outside the diamond industry, such as nickel and Cleaver: Synthetics are not new – they have been platinum producers. around for many years – and they are very different We believe business has moral responsibility to products from diamonds. While they have recently play a role in efforts to reduce climate change. We are been receiving a lot of attention, the reality is that very proud to be leading this ground-breaking project demand for synthetic jewellery products is still very as part of our wider programme of environmental limited. They might play a role as diamond imitation management activities, spanning land conservation products, but they simply don’t have the inherent through to water, energy and carbon emissions value that diamonds have – of being rare, unique and strategies. JNA timeless – which make diamonds a far more special and desired choice for representing the key emotional occasions in life.

Synthetics are also expected to drop significantly For more diamond industry updates, log on to in value, as is the case with any technological product that is mass-produced as the cost of jewellerynewsasia.com

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Dominion reveals CanadaMark Jewellery winner

a Pierre Précieuse Inc from Montreal, Quebec James was the winner of the 2017 CanadaMark Pounds, Jewellery Design Competition award, Dominion executive L vice president Diamond Corporation recently announced. The for Diamonds competition honours jewellery pieces with the highest at Dominion level of creativity and excellence in quality and style, Diamond showcasing CanadaMark-certified diamonds. Corporation Retailers from across Canada were invited to submit a unique pendant design featuring a CanadaMark certified diamond. In celebration of Canada’s 150th birthday, the theme for each The CanadaMark diamond design was “Canada.” Out of the 10 programme is owned finalists selected by Dominion, La Pierre by Dominion. Every CanadaMark Précieuse’s design was chosen by diamond is responsibly mined consumers as the favourite through a in the Northwest Territories, vote held on the CanadaMark website, natural and untreated, tracked which was open to the general public through audited processes at in Canada for four weeks ending May every stage from country of 31, 2017. origin to polished stone, and The winning pendant features a 0.40- polished to meet specific quality carat, round brilliant CanadaMark-certified The winning pendant by standards, according to the company. La Pierre Précieuse stone centred in a warm rose gold maple The CanadaMark programme is unique in leaf setting with a Canadian maple background. that it creates an unbroken and independently audited The award for the winning design was presented to chain of origin, it added. La Pierre Précieuse on June 7 at the CanadaMark Also at the cocktail reception, Dominion presented cocktail reception at the JCK Las Vegas show. the Arctic Sun, the largest fancy yellow stone The award featured a plaque with a recovered to date in North America at 65.93 rough by Wayne Nataway, an artist from the Northwest carats, with an estimated polished value of $5 million. Territories. The piece is called Transformation and was The diamond was recovered from the Misery pipe, carved by the artist in 1996. which continues to produce outstanding large fancy The winning pendant was purchased by Dominion yellow diamonds, providing upside to modelled and awarded to one of the participating consumer diamond prices, the miner said. voters at random. In May 2017, a positive pre-feasibility study was completed on the development of an underground The Arctic Sun fancy vivid operation below the Misery Main open pit at the yellow diamond is presented Ekati mine. The pre-feasibility study was based on at Dominion Diamond the mining of Misery Deep between calendar years Corporation’s cocktail 2018 and 2022, and a probable mineral reserve of reception in Las Vegas. It is the largest fancy yellow 1.8 million tonnes of kimberlite and 8.7 million carats, stone recovered to date on a 100 percent basis. Construction of the project in North America at 65.93 has been approved by the board of directors and rough carats. The polished permit applications are expected to be filed in the third gem weighs 30.54 carats quarter of this year, according to Dominion. JNA

64 ︱July 2017 DIAMONDS

Venus Jewel launches user-friendly mobile App

enus Jewel, one of the world’s recognised leaders Vin solitaire production, launched its mobile App at the 2017 edition of JCK Las Vegas. The App brings the company’s high-value diamonds to the fingertips of professional diamond buyers, retailers and jewellery manufacturers, enabling them to access Venus Jewel’s diamond inventory anywhere, anytime, the diamond manufacturer said. The App provides the features that Venus Jewel’s state-of-the-art website, www.venusjewel.com, has to offer, according to the company. One of the App’s exceptional features is a user-friendly voice Venus Jewel International Managing Director Mahiar recognition software. Borhanjoo, left, and Jagat Thakker, head of marketing and PR of Venus Jewel Additionally, the diamond manufacturer served as the WiFi the selected diamonds instantly the stone’s origin and how it was sponsor at the show to enable from their smartphones. The App planned through the piece of rough its clients to access the mobile also has the following features: diamond and finally, to the polished App without having to worry about Bid functionalities (PDS) just like outcome. We finish the presentation connectivity. venusjewel.com; ability to purchase with the virtual aspect of the stone,” With the launch of the App, diamonds anywhere; view future Mahiar Borhanjoo, managing Venus Jewel anticipates increased availability; complete diamond director of Venus Jewel International, customer convenience and traceability for all its diamonds, from said in an earlier interview. confidence. rough, planning to polish; compare The holographic display gives “In a time when everything from diamonds side by side; find the buyers a virtual look of what the business to planning vacations perfect matched pair of diamonds; diamond is, in addition to images is done via smartphones, it was and the ability to email and message and videos. This service is part of natural for us to answer market others about diamond details. Venus Jewel’s efforts to delight its demand and create a truly Also at the show, the diamond customers. global App with instant search, manufacturer livened up its “Our chairman, Sevantibhai confirmation and live shipment stand with hologram machines, (Sevantilal Shah, founder and status of diamonds. The mobile which provide buyers a three- chairman of Venus Jewel), has App offers unprecedented access dimensional view of the diamonds always said, Venus Jewel’s vision is to real-time pricing, diamond they are perusing. centred around every diamond that comparison and instant allocation of “So, when people come and we polish and its positive impact diamonds at a swipe,” said Rajesh say, ‘I’m here looking for this stone, on our partners. We must always Shah, a partner at Venus Jewel. and do you have it available?’ – we help our customers get what they The App does not only help actually start out in the front and want when they need it,” Borhanjoo clients conduct quick diamond search for that particular stone, but said. “This is a very important thing searches but it also confirms we continue with the story – from for us to strive for every day.” JNA

︱July 2017 65 DIAMONDS

SRK unveils new brand

SRK’s booth at JCK Las Vegas SRK’s promise, e-commerce portal

hree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd (SRK) launched at JCK SLas Vegas its new brand identity and portal, which company leaders said are representative of SRK’s vision and transformation into a forward-thinking and dynamic diamond manufacturer. The milestone event, which centred on the company’s new brand promise – “Pure Light” – was led by SRK

founder Govind Dholakia. SRK founder Govind Dholakia, fifth from right, joins SRK officials and industry experts at The new website, SRK.One, the unveiling of the company’s new brand identity at JCK Las Vegas offers excellent user-friendly experience, and is equipped with is reflected in the SRK family culture placement of the letters S, R and K virtually every that can help a where SRK counts all its customers, resembles a diamond being held up client make the right decision when stakeholders, associates, vendors, by pillars, which are representative purchasing a diamond, according including its craftsmen, as family of the four essential elements of a to SRK Director Shreyans Dholakia. members,” he said. diamond – Cut, Carat, Colour and “One” also takes on a deeper The new logo symbolically Clarity. “The ‘Diamond,’ standing meaning for SRK, Shreyans said. “puts the diamond on a pedestal,” tall, resembles SRK’s stature in “’One’ is the first whole number. the company official said. The the industry, owing to its strong SRK believes in wholeness, which principles,” Shreyans said. To mark the occasion, SRK hosted a panel discussion featuring Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at the GIA; Erik Jens, member of the management team for international clients and CEO for Diamond & Jewellery Clients at ABN Amro Bank NV; and Paul Rowley, executive vice president for De Beers Global Erik Jens of ABN Amro Bank NV delivers a Sightholder Sales. The discussion presentation at SRK’s breakfast event in Las Vegas was moderated by Rob Bates. JNA

66 ︱July 2017 DIAMONDS

GIA develops innovative app for modern consumers

illennials are changing the satisfy new consumer needs,” landscape of diamond commented Crimmin at a seminar Mjewellery retail in today’s on the sidelines of the June Hong consumer market. With this in Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. mind, the Gemological Institute Dr. Shoko Odake, assistant of America (GIA) created M2M, a manager of Gem Identification digital storytelling platform and app of GIA’s Tokyo laboratory, that provides a closer look into a meanwhile, talked about iD100, diamond’s journey from mine to GIA’s new gemstone-testing market, giving today’s consumers a device, which can test loose or more interactive and inventive retail mounted diamonds of all sizes experience. and shapes. According to Matt Crimmin, The easy-to-operate, vice president of laboratory sophisticated desktop instrument Matt Crimmin, vice president of laboratory operations of the GIA, the institute reliably identifies natural diamonds operations of the Gemological Institute of considered three market factors from all simulants and from America (GIA) talks about M2M, GIA’s new when it developed M2M: Millennials’ diamonds that may be synthetic or digital storytelling platform and app expectation of a better buying treated, revealed GIA. experience from retailers; consumers According to GIA, the greater in diameter (approximately focusing on gemmological reports mounted gem-testing 0.005 carat). alone due to increased online device combines advanced Diamonds that may be research; and the need for retailers spectroscopic technology; synthetic or treated and all to clearly explain to the consumer GIA’s extensive research into simulants are referred for further the difference between natural and the qualities of natural, treated examination and confirmation. synthetic diamonds. and synthetic diamonds; and “Screening of pink diamonds “Better jewellery ‘stories’ may decades of diamond analysis and identification of some coloured enhance the in-store experience, experience to identify more than gemstones such as rubies, increase overall category interest 97 percent of untreated natural sapphires and emeralds are and limit category defection. GIA has mounted and unmounted D-to-Z currently being tested,” revealed Dr. the scale, experience and credibility colour diamonds sized 0.9 mm or Odake. JNA to deliver compelling ‘stories’ to

Dr. Shoko Odake, assistant manager of Gem Identification of GIA’s Tokyo laboratory, explains how iD100 works at a seminar on the sidelines of the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

︱July 2017 67 DIAMONDS

Forevermark captures eternal love with latest collections

iamond jeweller Forevermark is adding sparkle to the Dpromise of love and Chinese actress with fine jewellery pieces and model from its Endlea and Red Carpet Christine Kuo Collections. dons jewellery Famous Chinese actress and pieces from Forevermark’s model Christine Kuo embodied the Endlea and charm and allure of Forevermark Red Carpet diamonds, according to the jeweller. Collections In a recent photoshoot, Kuo donned pieces from Forevermark’s Endlea and Red Carpet Collections. Crafted in the brand’s Design These attributes are likewise diamond undergoes a journey of and Innovation Centre in Milan, symbolised by pavé earrings, rigorous selection, ensuring that each piece from the collections rings, necklaces and bangles from only the most beautiful diamonds commemorates moments in a the Forevermark Endlea and Red are chosen to be inscribed with woman’s life to be remembered Carpet Collections. a unique inscription and number, forever, noted the jeweller. “With less than 1 percent of which identifies it to be your Kuo perfectly displayed four the world’s diamonds eligible to Forevermark diamond forever.” qualities that capture the pure become a Forevermark diamond, Forevermark is a world- rush of excitement experienced by each diamond comes with a renowned diamond brand from The brides-to-be. These include delicate promise that it is beautiful, rare De Beers Group of Companies. femininity, passionate heart, fresh- and responsibly sourced,” noted It is available in over 2,000 stores faced beauty and flawless grace. Forevermark. “Every Forevermark across 25 markets worldwide. JNA

Stellar Diamonds to divest non-core assets in tellar Diamonds Plc has production levels of 200,000 entered an agreement to sell carats per annum, generating Sits assets in the Republic of revenues of over $45 million per Guinea for $2 million. annum over a minimum life of mine The deal, which was entered of 21 years. into BDG Capital Ltd, stipulates an “The proposed disposal of our exclusivity period of two months for Guinea assets allows management due diligence and completion of to focus on the Tongo-Tonguma mine documentation. development. It also allows for BDG

Karl Smithson, chief executive Rough diamonds from Stellar Diamond Plc’s to take the projects forward, which is of Stellar, commented, “The Tongo project in the interests of Guinea and local proceeds will be used to advance stakeholders,” added Smithson. the development of our flagship He added that the proposed “We look forward to unlocking the Tongo-Tonguma kimberlite project Tongo-Tonguma mine has a significant value that we believe in – a project that low capex requirement of $32 is inherent in the Tongo-Tonguma has an estimated post-tax net million and the potential to be the development as we advance present value of $104 million second-largest kimberlite diamond the company towards sustained attributable to Stellar.” mine in West Africa – with forecast commercial production.” JNA

68 ︱July 2017 DIAMONDS

Alrosa to strengthen focus Open-pit mine at Alrosa’s Mir pipe in Yakutia on market leadership and business muscle

ussian diamond miner Alrosa underground mines and other core is planning to boost its production facilities amounted to Rdevelopment strategy, with RUB 16.5 billion (around $280 a strong focus on fortifying its top million) or 60 percent of the position in the industry. company’s total capital investments According to Alrosa President in 2016. Sergey Ivanov, the company The miner started developing remains dedicated to strengthening a new primary diamond deposit its leadership in diamond mining Diamond sorting at Yakutsk in Yakutia at Zarya, which is one of Alrosa’s and building market strength. largest investment projects. Its “We see a lot of potential improve efficiency, and make development guarantees loading in our infrastructure projects, structural and staff changes in the of existing capacities of the Aikhal including those in . We have company if the situation requires. Mining and Processing Division for already signed documents on the “The company needs to be at least two decades ahead, noted establishment of a joint venture reformed inside to have greater the company. company for the development manageability and transparency. Alrosa is also still actively working of Luele pipe – the largest pipe I can give an upbeat assessment to establish a diamond mining facility discovered over the past 60 years. of the operation of our production on the deposit of Verkhne-Munskoe Alrosa also plans to increase its facilities in Yakutia. We are also kimberlite field. In accordance share in Catoca Ltd Mining Co up facing changes in the administrative with the investment agreement to 41 percent,” revealed Ivanov staff with a view to improve the signed with the Ministry for the during an annual shareholders company’s internal efficiency,” Development of the Russian Far meeting. “The company will continue continued the company official. East in 2016, the total investment its work on the implementation of He stressed that Alrosa will in the development of the deposit our investment projects in Yakutia, modify business processes, will be RUB 63 billion (around $1.06 including those related to the improve the quality of managerial billion). According to Sergey Ivanov, establishment of a diamond mining decisions and performance government support for the project facility at Verkhne-Munskoe deposit.” discipline, and optimise costs. emphasises its importance and In the meantime, Alrosa will Ivanov also disclosed potential for the development of the gradually reduce its costs and that Alrosa’s investments in Russian Far East. JNA

Lucapa completes latest sale of Lulo diamonds ucapa Diamond Co Ltd The sale brought gross recently sold a total of proceeds from Lulo diamond L 1,236 carats of alluvial sales to date to $15.4 million at an diamonds from its Lulo Diamond average price per carat of $1,620. Project in Angola as part of its 5th Similar to Lucapa’s previous sale for 2017. sales, the latest diamond parcel Lucapa, along with its partners was sourced primarily from mining Empresa Nacional de Diamantes block 28 at Lulo. EP and Rosas & Petalas, achieved Mining has since returned to gross proceeds of $950,000, higher-value mining blocks 8 and representing an average price per 6 following the end of the Angolan Diamond parcels from Lucapa Diamond carat of $770. wet season, revealed Lucapa. JNA Co Ltd’s Lulo Diamond Project

︱July 2017 69 DIAMONDS

De Beers Group announces plans to invest in start-ups

he De Beers Group of can be a cost-effective, Companies is establishing risk-reduced way to pursue T De Beers Ventures to actively innovation.” consider the acquisition of minority In another development, equity stakes in start-ups and De Beers said demand for growth companies. rough diamonds continued to The new initiative will consider strengthen, thanks to positive small investments in areas that may trends in the global market.

include downstream distribution, Citing the latest data from De Beers Group of Companies

© consumer brands, marketing its Global Sightholder Sales and De Beers’ Venetia Mine platforms, security, cutting and Auction Sales, the group revealed polishing, and imaging technologies. that the provisional value of its rough same period in 2016. The Cycle The objectives of the investments diamond sales for the 5th sales cycle 5 2017 provisional sales value will be to generate returns that are of 2017 reached $530 million. represented sales as at June 19, both strategic and financial. Bruce Cleaver, CEO of De 2017. Tom Montgomery, senior vice Beers Group, commented, Sales values are quoted on a president of Strategic Initiatives “Following positive feedback from consolidated accounting basis and at De Beers Group, said: “Not all the Las Vegas trade show, and are before capitalisation of pre- good ideas can be generated or in line with recent trends, we saw commercial production revenues at executed by a large corporation. continued good demand for De Gahcho Kué. Auction Sales included We believe that harnessing the Beers rough diamonds in the fifth in a given cycle are the sum of energy of entrepreneurs to pursue sales cycle of the year.” all sales between the end of the strategic opportunities that benefit The group’s rough diamond preceding cycle and the end of the De Beers and the diamond industry sales hit $564 million during the noted cycle, added De Beers. JNA

Digital expert heads online diamond retailer Blue Nile lue management of our business,” said Goldberger. Nile Inc, across “We will continue to build on Ban online leading online our leadership position to drive retailer of diamonds retail organisations profitable growth through enhanced and fine jewellery, including Target, Gilt marketing, investments in the user appointed seasoned Groupe, Hayneedle and experience, improved sourcing, and merchandising and , disclosed the a continued focus on offering the digital executive Jason company. most compelling diamond and fine Goldberger as president He most recently served jewellery assortment in the world.” and CEO. as chief digital officer and Kanter, meanwhile, commented, Goldberger replaced Harvey president of Target.com, where “Jason is an experienced leader Kanter, who now serves as he was responsible for digital with deep e-commerce experience chairman of the board of directors strategy and execution. who will work closely with the team and continues to play an important “Blue Nile has offered to innovate, secure and further our role in the strategic direction of the customers unsurpassed value in an position as the smartest, easiest company, according to Blue Nile. easy, intuitive shopping experience and most pressure-free way for Goldberger brings to Blue Nile for nearly 20 years. I am truly consumers to buy a diamond. I look more than 20 years of executive excited to lead the company in forward to working with him as Blue leadership in merchandising, digital deepening our relationship with Nile continues to create superior innovation, marketing and product customers to accelerate the growth customer experiences.” JNA

70 ︱July 2017