Jza Magazine Issue 2021
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Narration on Ethnic Jewellery of Kerala-Focusing on Design, Inspiration and Morphology of Motifs
Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology Review Article Open Access Narration on ethnic jewellery of Kerala-focusing on design, inspiration and morphology of motifs Abstract Volume 6 Issue 6 - 2020 Artefacts in the form of Jewellery reflect the essence of the lifestyle of the people who Wendy Yothers,1 Resmi Gangadharan2 create and wear them, both in the historic past and in the living present. They act as the 1Department of Jewellery Design, Fashion Institute of connecting link between our ancestors, our traditions, and our history. Jewellery is used- Technology, USA -both in the past and the present-- to express the social status of the wearer, to mark 2School of Architecture and Planning, Manipal Academy of tribal identity, and to serve as amulets for protection from harm. This paper portrays the Higher Education, Karnataka, India ethnic ornaments of Kerala with insights gained from examples of Jewellery conserved in the Hill Palace Museum and Kerala Folklore Museum, in Cochin, Kerala. Included are Correspondence: Wendy Yothers, Department of Jewellery Thurai Balibandham, Gaurisankara Mala, Veera Srunkhala, Oddyanam, Bead necklaces, Design, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA, Nagapadathali and Temple Jewellery. Whenever possible, traditional Jewellery is compared Email with modern examples to illustrate how--though streamlined, traditional designs are still a living element in the Jewellery of Kerala today. Received: October 17, 2020 | Published: December 14, 2020 Keywords: ethnic ornaments, Kerala jewellery, sarpesh, gowrishankara mala, veera srunkhala Introduction Indian cultures have used Jewellery as a strong medium to reflect their rituals. The design motifs depicted on the ornaments of India Every artifact has a story to tell. -
Use and Applications of Draping in Turkey's
USE AND APPLICATIONS OF DRAPING IN TURKEY’S CONTEMPORARY FASHION DUYGU KOCABA Ş MAY 2010 USE AND APPLICATIONS OF DRAPING IN TURKEY’S CONTEMPORARY FASHION A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE SCHOOL OF SOCIAL SCIENCES OF IZMIR UNIVERSITY OF ECONOMICS BY DUYGU KOCABA Ş IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENTOF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF DESIGN IN THE GRADUATE SCHOOL OF SOCIAL SCIENCES MAY 2010 Approval of the Graduate School of Social Sciences ...................................................... Prof. Dr. Cengiz Erol Director I certify that this thesis satisfies all the requirements as a thesis for the degree of Master of Design. ...................................................... Prof. Dr. Tevfik Balcıoglu Head of Department This is to certify that we have read this thesis and that in our opinion it is fully adaquate, in scope and quality, as a thesis for the degree of Master of Design. ...................................................... Asst. Prof. Dr. Şölen Kipöz Supervisor Examining Committee Members Asst. Prof. Dr. Duygu Ebru Öngen Corsini ..................................................... Asst. Prof. Dr. Nevbahar Göksel ...................................................... Asst. Prof. Dr. Şölen Kipöz ...................................................... ii ABSTRACT USE AND APPLICATIONS OF DRAPING IN TURKEY’S CONTEMPORARY FASHION Kocaba ş, Duygu MDes, Department of Design Studies Supervisor: Asst. Prof. Dr. Şölen K İPÖZ May 2010, 157 pages This study includes the investigations of the methodology and applications of draping technique which helps to add creativity and originality with the effects of experimental process during the application. Drapes which have been used in different forms and purposes from past to present are described as an interaction between art and fashion. Drapes which had decorated the sculptures of many sculptors in ancient times and the paintings of many artists in Renaissance period, has been used as draping technique for fashion design with the contributions of Madeleine Vionnet in 20 th century. -
Setting Stones in Metal Clay Jeanette Landenwitch
Setting Stones in Metal Clay Jeanette Landenwitch Brynmorgen Press portland, maine Copyright 2008 Brynmorgen Press Drawings Tim McCreight All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be Design, edit & layout Tim McCreight reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, Abby Johnston electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, Michael Deles recording, or any storage and retrieval system except Index Jamie Kingman-Rice by a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages in connection with a review written for inclusion in a Designs of all the jewelry shown in this book belong magazine, newspaper, web posting, or broadcast. to the artists. Unless otherwise noted, photos are courtesy of the artists. ISBN 978-1-929565–29–0 Preceding page: Pendant, Hiroaki Shinonome, “Kugi” Printed in Hong Kong Fine silver, diamond. 2¼” x 1¼” Second printing Front cover: Brooch, Tim McCreight Fine silver, malachite, moonstones. 2½" by 1 ¾" For ordering and permissions, visit www. brynmorgen.com CONTENTS 1 Gemstones 9 2 Tools & Materials 17 3 Choosing the Right Setting 29 4 Bezels 41 5 Prongs 67 6 Other Setting Options 79 7 The Work Behind the Work 98 Appendix 106 Acknowledgements This book is dedicated to all artists working in metal clay. It is exciting to be part of the evolution of this wonderful material, watching as the field has developed from basics to the ad- vanced work that we are seeing today. I hope this book will encourage the creation of innovative settings, and inspire su- perior work with gemstones of all kinds. I’d like to say a special thank-you to my editor, Tim Mc- Creight, whose confidence gave me the opportunity to ex- periment and describe the stonesetting ideas I was collecting. -
JEWELLERY TREND REPORT 3 2 NDCJEWELLERY TREND REPORT 2021 Natural Diamonds Are Everlasting
TREND REPORT ew l y 2021 STATEMENT J CUFFS SHOULDER DUSTERS GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY GEOMETRIC DESIGNS PRESENTED BY THE NEW HEIRLOOM CONTENTS 2 THE STYLE COLLECTIVE 4 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW 8 STATEMENT CUFFS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE YEAR, we all learnt to 12 LARGER THAN LIFE fi nd our peace. We seek happiness in the little By Anaita Shroff Adajania things, embark upon meaningful journeys, and hold hope for a sense of stability. This 16 SHOULDER DUSTERS is also why we gravitate towards natural diamonds–strong and enduring, they give us 20 THE STONE AGE reason to celebrate, and allow us to express our love and affection. Mostly, though, they By Sarah Royce-Greensill offer inspiration. 22 GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY Our fi rst-ever Trend Report showcases natural diamonds like you have never seen 26 HIS & HERS before. Yet, they continue to retain their inherent value and appeal, one that ensures By Bibhu Mohapatra they stay relevant for future generations. We put together a Style Collective and had 28 GEOMETRIC DESIGNS numerous conversations—with nuance and perspective, these freewheeling discussions with eight tastemakers made way for the defi nitive jewellery 32 SHAPESHIFTER trends for 2021. That they range from statement cuffs to geometric designs By Katerina Perez only illustrates the versatility of their central stone, the diamond. Natural diamonds have always been at the forefront of fashion, symbolic of 36 THE NEW HEIRLOOM timelessness and emotion. Whether worn as an accessory or an ally, diamonds not only impress but express how we feel and who we are. This report is a 41 THE PRIDE OF BARODA product of love and labour, and I hope it inspires you to wear your personality, By HH Maharani Radhikaraje and most importantly, have fun with jewellery. -
The Jewellery Market in the Eu
CBI MARKET SURVEY: THE JEWELLERY MARKET IN THE EU CBI MARKET SURVEY THE JEWELLERY MARKET IN THE EU Publication date: September 2008 CONTENTS REPORT SUMMARY 2 INTRODUCTION 5 1 CONSUMPTION 6 2 PRODUCTION 18 3 TRADE CHANNELS FOR MARKET ENTRY 23 4 TRADE: IMPORTS AND EXPORTS 32 5 PRICE DEVELOPMENTS 44 6 MARKET ACCESS REQUIREMENTS 48 7 OPPORTUNITY OR THREAT? 51 APPENDICES A PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS 53 B INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET 56 C LIST OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES 57 This survey was compiled for CBI by Searce Disclaimer CBI market information tools: http://www.cbi.eu/disclaimer Source: CBI Market Information Database • URL: www.cbi.eu • Contact: [email protected] • www.cbi.eu/disclaimer Page 1 of 58 CBI MARKET SURVEY: THE JEWELLERY MARKET IN THE EU Report summary This survey profiles the EU market for precious jewellery and costume jewellery. The precious jewellery market includes jewellery pieces made of gold, platinum or silver all of which can be in plain form or with (semi-) precious gemstones, diamonds or pearls. The costume jewellery market includes imitation jewellery pieces of base metal plain or with semi-precious stones, glass, beads or crystals. It also includes imitation jewellery of any other material, cuff links and hair accessories. This survey excludes second-hand jewellery and luxury goods such as gold and silver smith’s ware (tableware, toilet ware, smokers’ requisites etc.) and watches. Consumption Being the second largest jewellery market after the USA, the EU represented 20% of the world jewellery market in 2007. EU consumers spent € 23,955 million with Italy, UK, France and Germany making up the lion’s share (70%). -
Newsletter September 2020.Cdr
ISSUE 33: September 2020 For Private Circulation Only A Unit of CapsGold. Estd.: 1901 Our Two Cents A N I N F O R M A T I V E N E W S L E T T E R B Y K A L A S H A Dear Readers, Seasons Greetings, September has been a rollercoaster ride for us, exciting & adventurous! We are super excited to present you our new festive collection of this season. Well known tollywood actress Archana Veda has launched our festive collection. The collection was launched with great pomp and joy while taking safety precautions and maintaining all social distancing norms by govt. Exquisite diamond jewellery crafted to perfection, royal heritage Jadau jewellery and handcrafted gold bridal collection were showcased at the launch. Archana looked astonishing in finely made brilliant cut diamond and emerald bridal jewellery which consists of board choker matching long necklace, jumkas, bangles, maang tikka and rings. Good news to all the jewellery loving NRI's out there! Introducing free shipping to USA, shop for your favourite jewellery through a video and we will ship it directly to your doorstep. How does it work? Choose the jewellery you want to buy through our video calling app or any of your family, friends can come over to the store and choose the necklace for you. Pay online and we will be adding your order to our monthly shipment package shipped 25th of every month. That's how you get your jewellery shipped directly to you. We have a lovely surprise coming up for you guys stay tuned and follow us on social media to get the latest updates. -
JEWELS of the EDWARDIANS by Elise B
JEWELS OF THE EDWARDIANS By Elise B. Misiorowski and Nancy K. Hays Although the reign of King Edward VII of ver the last decade, interest in antique and period jew- Great Britain was relatively short (1902- elry has grown dramatically. Not only have auction 1910), the age that bears his name produced 0 houses seen a tremendous surge in both volume of goods distinctive jewelry and ushered in several sold and prices paid, but antique dealers and jewelry retail- new designs and manufacturing techniques. ers alikereportthat sales inthis area of the industry are During this period, women from the upper- excellent and should continue to be strong (Harlaess et al., most echelons of society wore a profusion of 1992). As a result, it has become even more important for extravagant jewelry as a way of demon- strating their wealth and rank. The almost- jewelers and independent appraisers to understand-and exclusive use of platinum, the greater use of know how to differentiate between-the many styles of pearls, and the sleady supply of South period jewelry on the market. African diamonds created a combination Although a number of excellent books have been writ- that will forever characterize Edwardian ten recently on various aspects of period jewelry, there are jewels. The Edwardian age, truly the last so many that the search for information is daunting. The era of the ruling classes, ended dramatically purpose of this article is to provide an overview of one type with the onset of World War I. of period jewelry, that of the Edwardian era, an age of pros- perity for the power elite at the turn of the 19th century. -
The Journal of Gemmology Editor: Dr R.R
he Journa TGemmolog Volume 25 No. 8 October 1997 The Gemmological Association and Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain Gemmological Association and Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain 27 Greville Street, London Eel N SSU Tel: 0171 404 1134 Fax: 0171 404 8843 e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.gagtl.ac.uklgagtl President: Professor R.A. Howie Vice-Presidents: LM. Bruton, Af'. ram, D.C. Kent, R.K. Mitchell Honorary Fellows: R.A. Howie, R.T. Liddicoat Inr, K. Nassau Honorary Life Members: D.). Callaghan, LA. lobbins, H. Tillander Council of Management: C.R. Cavey, T.]. Davidson, N.W. Decks, R.R. Harding, I. Thomson, V.P. Watson Members' Council: Aj. Allnutt, P. Dwyer-Hickey, R. fuller, l. Greatwood. B. jackson, J. Kessler, j. Monnickendam, L. Music, l.B. Nelson, P.G. Read, R. Shepherd, C.H. VVinter Branch Chairmen: Midlands - C.M. Green, North West - I. Knight, Scottish - B. jackson Examiners: A.j. Allnutt, M.Sc., Ph.D., leA, S.M. Anderson, B.Se. (Hons), I-CA, L. Bartlett, 13.Se, .'vI.phil., I-G/\' DCi\, E.M. Bruton, FGA, DC/\, c.~. Cavey, FGA, S. Coelho, B.Se, I-G,\' DGt\, Prof. A.T. Collins, B.Sc, Ph.D, A.G. Good, FGA, f1GA, Cj.E. Halt B.Sc. (Hons), FGr\, G.M. Howe, FG,'\, oo-, G.H. jones, B.Se, PhD., FCA, M. Newton, B.Se, D.PhiL, H.L. Plumb, B.Sc., ICA, DCA, R.D. Ross, B.5e, I-GA, DGA, P..A.. Sadler, 13.5c., IGA, DCA, E. Stern, I'GA, DC/\, Prof. I. -
Freedom of Expression and School Dress Codes: South African and International Perspectives
FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION AND SCHOOL DRESS CODES: SOUTH AFRICAN AND INTERNATIONAL PERSPECTIVES KEN ALSTON† UNIVERSITY OF FORT HARE, EAST LONDON, SOUTH AFRICA South Africa’s very liberal entrenched Constitution1 is just ten years old. With it have come far reaching legal implications for the entire South African community, from the declaring of a critical concept in customary society to be unconstitutional, to what boys and girls may wear to school. The paper begins with an explanation of the power of the South African Constitution. This sets the scene for examining school dress codes in respect of school uniforms, hairstyles and jewellery. The Constitution declares that ‘everyone has the right to freedom of expression’ while the National Education Department, in its guidelines to schools on developing codes of conduct, specifically refers to freedom of expression as including dress and hairstyles. In order to comprehend the extent of this entrenched right it is essential to see it against the backdrop of the founding principles of the Constitution, namely dignity, equality and freedom, principles reiterated three times in the Bill of Rights. School dress codes in four other countries receive particular attention and provide a broader perspective and motivation for some of the original work done on this topic in South Africa. Reference is made to a number of reported incidents involving elements of dress codes in South African schools and special mention is made of the case of Antonie v Settler’s High School Governing Body 2002 (4) 738 (C), the one High Court judgment particularly relevant to dress codes and their place in the context of teaching and learning. -
A Case Study: Tiffany &
F I R S T M E D I A Design Management Paper A CASE STUDY: TIFFANY & CO. PREPARED BY: TAN PEI LING DAPHNE TAN SHU MIN Introduction Tiffany & Co. (henceforth referred as “Tiffany”) is America’s premier purveyor of jewels and time- pieces, as well as luxury table, personal and household accessories. Founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tif- fany, Tiffany’s design philosophy has been based mainly on the central tenet that “good design is good busi- ness”1. All Tiffany’s designs are presented in the Tiffany Blue Box, recognized around the world as an icon of distinction and a symbol of the ultimate gift to celebrate life’s most joyous occasions. Today, the company’s 100 plus boutiques in 17 counties continue the company’s tradition of excellence2. This paper consists of several segments: (1) brief history of Tiffany; (2) organizational structure of the company; (3) marketing and product attributes; (4) target audience; (5) the unique selling proposition of its products; before concluding the paper. Brief History of Tiffany: 1837, Tiffany & Young is established Tiffany & Co. is a U.S. jewellery and silverware company founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837 as a “stationery and fancy goods emporium.” The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young and Ellis in lower Manhattan. The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm’s emphasis on jewel- lery was established. Tiffany & Co. has since opened stores in major cities all over the world. -
The Speculative Activities of John Law
“I am not master of events.” John Law’s Bargains with Lord Londonderry, 1717–1729 Paper for University of California at Riverside seminar November 17, 2008 LARRY NEAL Professor Emeritus of Economics University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Research Associate, NBER Visiting Professor, London School of Economics Visiting Kenneth L. Sokoloff Professor of Economic History, UCLA ABSTRACT The risk-managing strategies of Lord Londonderry, second son of Thomas “Diamond” Pitt, during the financial boom and bust of the Mississippi and South Sea Bubbles demonstrate how risk takers can lay off their bets along several dimensions – time (forward markets), space (foreign exchange), and orthogonal (political favors). By contrast, John Law – his mentor, counterparty, and eventual defaulter – managed to fail on each account. Tracing the speculations of each man through a detailed examination of the ultimate contract between them made in August 1719 reveals how each man attempted to lay off the risks he assumed. Ultimately, Law lost over £500,000 by the end of August 1720 while Londonderry gained little. Nevertheless, the work out arranged between them and their respective agents demonstrates the rational calculations of each man in more than financial terms, and possibly restores some of their respective reputations. 2 “I am sorry you lost money by my advice, but I did the same thing myself and I am not master of events.” John Law, letter to M. Hippolyte Mary at Genoa, 24 May 1721. Bibliothèque Méjanes, Aix-en-Provence, Ms. 355. Introduction The connection between the Mississippi and South Sea bubbles during the years 1719 and 1720 may seem obvious. -
Diamonds and Precious Stones: Their History, Value, and Distinguishing
IVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 1 III I III I II II III I II! I II 3 1822019442839 RR.G.S. .. :. , 335% DIAMONDS AND PRECIOUS STONES: THEIR HISTORY, VALUE, AND DISTINGUISHING CHARACTERISTICS. WITH SIMPLE TESTS FOR THEIR IDENTIFICATION BY HARRY EMANUEL, F.R.G.S. SECOND EDITION, WITH A NEW TABLE OF THE PRESENT VALUE OF DIAMONDS. LONDON: JOHN CAMDEN HOTTEN, PICCADILLY. 1867. right of Translation is reset ved. PREFACE TO NEW EDITION HE rapid exhaustion of the first edition, and the numerous demands for more copies, having proved to the Author that, contrary to his expectation, a plain and unvarnished statement of facts connected with precious stones has proved interesting not only to the trader in gems, and to the amateur in mineralogy, but to the general public he has been emboldened to publish another edition, in which he has made several important corrections and additions which have been necessitated by the course of events. has The prediction of the rise in the value of diamonds been verified, as will be seen by a comparison of the present table of values with that of the preceding edi- crisis and tion in spite of an unprecedented subsequent iv Preface to New Edition. commercial depression, and notwithstanding the number of purchasers of gems must have been lessened by the ruin of the thousands of persons who, when making, according to their idea, a solii investment, were in fact only purchasing an unlimited liability. Notwithstanding this commercial crisis and depression, the value of diamonds bas steadily augmented. The Author has incurred considerable animosity in ' some quarters from having disclosed the secrets of the trade,' but he considered at the time, and still thinks, that to an honest dealer, knowledge on the part of the public is a evil benefit instead of an ; and against those who bring a stigma on an honourable profession by unfair means, he is only too delighted to put the public on their guard.