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Silver Linings Storybook Now serving fabulousness! Photo by Karina Tess on Unsplash

All that glitters . . . and more

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Of course, in a world which is frequently resetting itself – A note from the regardless of season – and in which we ourselves search for different ways to re-emerge, EDITOR- colour is a welcome tonic for the body, mind and soul. So the canvas of the storybook IN- you're about to feast your eyes upon has been painted with passion, life, love and even laughter. Our paintbrush Saturday, 20 March is the is called “jewellery” and it’s all in colour! autumnal equinox in South Africa. And Team JZA is rather delighted Across the blue seas, we welcome Smitha Sadanandan as that this issue not only echoes our Editor-at-Large, who reminded me: “It doesn’t matter if the spectrum of the season’s it’s autumn – who doesn’t like ice-cream!?” gorgeous hues of , orange, And on that note, enjoy our serving of fabulousness! yellow, burgundy and brown, but pays equal attention to the rest of nature’s wonderful palette. Although, with the autumn breezes in the air, we might sway over a little to the odd Editor-in-Chief favourite or two (or three)… Jason Aarons

Smitha Sadanandan Adri Viviers Gill Hyslop JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicago- Adri is Editor of JZA’s sister Gill has been in the publishing based Smitha – a freelance magazine, SA Jewellery News for more than 30 years, journalist specialising in the (SAJN), the official publication of having worked on numerous B2B luxury industry. She tracks the Jewellery Council of SA. She and consumer titles, including international trends in the is highly respected among the as Editor of SA Jewellery News jewellery sector and provides jewellery fraternity and during her from 2005-2009. She is also a an insightful perspective as more than 10-year editorship, has consummate foodie and has analyst and contributor to represented SAJN at the HKTDC worked as a chef and on charter TRENDVISION (Jewellery + Hong Kong International Jewellery yachts in the Mediterranean. Forecasting). She has written Fair, the Hong Kong & Her global resumé includes for print and digital platforms Clock Fair, VicenzaOro and the her present editorship of internationally, including Solitaire, International Jewellery Fair BakeryandSnacks. The Adventurine and Azyaamode, (IIJS). Adri is also Editor of African among others. Odyssey, Jewellery Biz-News and

WORDSMITHS Jewellex Today!

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 3

COVER UNWRAPPED: EXTRA SWEET LITTLE NOTHINGS

he Veronica Anderson Jewellery brand is More mask magic T celebrated as iconic in South Africa and reflects from Veronica the creativity and outstanding Anderson talent of South Africa's foremost and jewellery designers. And this issue’s cover serves up this ethos in an exciting, delightful and uplifting manner.

JZA celebrates the brand’s latest jewellery offering, “Extra Sweet Little Nothings”, to bring magic to your mask-wearing! These pieces are all handmade by South African jewellers – and can be custom-crafted to make something special that captures your own personality in a and design of your choice.

Never leave home without these three tongue-in-cheek essentials…. • that can withstand the challenge of elastic; • A smile, even if it's hidden by your mask: • And ditto – your LIPSTICK!

Contact [email protected] | www.veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za Mobile +27 (82) 881 0359 | Landline +27 (11) 268 2021

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 4

CONTENTS Photographer Leigh Page | Styling and : Coast and Koi | : Travelling of Africa

Season’s sensations 6 Team JZA’s 10 picks 9 March magic Aquamarine’s refreshing aura

How charming 10 Timeless and Ōura irresistible charms

Silver Linings 16 Storybook Discover affordable luxury 28 – more than just for girls Funky time A must-have style 20 A lighthearted Q&A statement for guys with the Connect Tiffany's Agency tribe Lords of the Rings 32 Coloured Jewels of give men’s rings 24 Engagement the edge Ten trends to say you “do”! Breaking barriers 36 Gender-neutral designs are setting a firm stage for inclusivity Bvlgari Just it! 41 Beaded jewellery is back

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Stoneheart Editor-in-Chief & Publishing Director 5 Jason Aarons [email protected] Managing Director Imraan Mahomed [email protected] Rado Creative Director Joanne Brook [email protected] Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Contributing Editor Adri Viviers Pictures Editor Amahle Jali 58 therapy Copy Editor Anne Phillips Let’s go shopping for Operations & Admin new delights Thuli Majola [email protected] & USA Correspondent The is back Gill Hyslop 60 Sassy style statements Asia Pacific Region Solitaire Magazine Anton Javier, Deputy Editor Regency rocks! Gynn Lee, Business Manager 64 The magnificent Contributors Khwezi Makeba splendour of Director: Brand Strategy Bridgerton’s jewellery Jenny Justus [email protected] / 083 450 6052 Green piece(s) Fame, fortune Media Specialists 45 Get some green savvy 66 Gail Keogh and fabulousness [email protected] / 082 929 4934 on your wrist Legendary jewellery Global Media Alliance Partners brands Solitaire Magazine What a www.solitairemagazine.com 48 wonderful world CoNNect Agency, UK Your A-Z of jewellery www.theagencyconnect.com A lighthearted 70 Part 2 Jewellery Council of South Africa Q&A with Connect We it up with Lorna Lloyd, CEO Agency tribe our dictionary of Membership enquiries: jewellery delights and [email protected] Of fruit and flowers insights Tel: 011 484 5528 / Fax: 086 504 95212 53 Uplifting seasonal picks The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine

WIN Lalique is independently published by 56 A fantastic seven- Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd and part of the SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio viewable night stay at any one of at www.jewellerysa.co.za Tsogo Sun’s Southern 10th Floor, Box, Sun resorts in ZA 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, 2193, South Africa Telephone 011 883 4627 www.isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & General Enquiries To Brad Bate - [email protected] Congratulations! winner of the

earrings The views expressed in this publication are not in Issue 1, kindly necessarily those of the owners, the publisher, contributors or its agents. While every effort has sponsored by the been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, the owners, Jewellery Council the Editor-in-Chief, the publisher; media alliance of South Africa. partners nor any of its endorsed organisations or contributors, can be held responsible for any Nebü omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine © 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE written permission from the publishers. 6

Team JZA makes their top 10 selections

o it’s autumn… but as conservative or classic, you can don’t for one minute actually wear pearls with a S think the season’s gold, modern twist. The trend yellow, orange, burgundy and isn’t going anywhere but up. brown hues of falling leaves (Read JZA’s pearl story in our mean you need to prepare on page 28.) to give your torso the cold Beaded bounty shoulder. In fact, these hues Colourful mixed with gold lend themselves to fabulous or silver accents, gemstones, pearls designs and wearables – and shells are back from the ’80s! indoors and out. Shoulder-up They bring a sense of adventure and jewellery is a big trend, from fun. Wear big, bulbous beads, spherical, elegant iterations to bright, faceted, flatbacks, semi-precious stones, bold and colourful motifs beads or crystal beads – the design and design styles. There are and shape possibilities are never-ending. glorious jewellery moods which (Discover more on page 41.) make for your own captivating capsule collections and sure- fire choices to be seen in.

Here are our top 10 fall favourites (we’d need an entire issue if the whole team SEASON’S had their way!):

Anything enamel There’s no denying the beauty of enamel jewellery. With SENSATIONS vibrant colours, quirky shapes, Funky chunky unique lustre and opacity, Chunky jewellery’s bold -crafted enamel jewellery entrance in 2020 gets is always striking and eye- bigger and bolder this year catching. It’s a terrific way to with hardware, chains and spice up monochrome looks. hoops evolving even further Always pearls and entering the oversized All symbolism aside, pearls realm. “If your lobes can are incredibly flattering, withstand it!” quips Jasmine lighten up any look and go Fox-Suliaman of Who What well with all styles. Although Wear. “Large” and “present”

some might think of them are the buzz-words here.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 7

◀ pearl, cultured South Sea pearl, diamond and brooch, set in yellow gold. David Webb

Hoop(la) “Conspicuous ear will overpower most distractions that come with having makeshift offices in our kitchens,” says Dara Prant of Fashionista. From classic to modern, chunky iterations, you can wear them to work or rock them off- duty when you just feel like dressing up for a little happy shopping!

Kaleidoscopic So we know Pantone’s Colours of the Year are “Illuminating” – a vibrant yellow – and “Ultimate Grey”, but the entire colour is up for grabs. Monochrome SENSATIONS is not! And, yes, SS21 Gabanna Dolce & there are always those who splash out more than others to reflect certain emotions and specifically express style, elegance and boldness. Our Hues lend own colour wheel is hinting at themselves to brown as the new black. fabulous designs Layered looks and wearables – Layering is indoors and out. considered to be an art and, done the right way, it can

enhance your personality. Designs Swim Night

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 8

◀ Annie Grimes Williams – CopperTide Contemporary Enamel Jewelry

The best thing about layered necklaces is that you get to JZA’s “three Jays” play with their length, texture and an “A” weigh in and mismatched designs, “Jewellery speaks to me whether you opt for heavy or from a colour perspective. fine . The difference in I gravitate to pieces, lengths can be dramatic or especially rings, whose subtle. The goal is to be unique. designs embrace magical Pod perfection colour blends, contrasts – Now “ear” ye all! These non- high and low – and subtle, traditional adornments are solitary choices.” – Jason, a delight to behold and add Editor-in-Chief Misho DesignsMisho a fun, cheery touch to your “Having lived through Zooming days. Who would the '70s, I’m naturally have thought it? But they did! attracted to crystals as Wireless fine jewellery sent my 'go-to' jewellery at all out signals in 2020 and it’s times. Their refracted light staying connected this year. and healing properties make me feel invincible. bling I never say “no” to From daywear to – my , – though! They invoke the Reign of the Ring ◀ Galactica disc ring. fearlessness, invincibility continues. This year, its Jacqueline Cullen and fortitude.” – Jenny, domain is all about being bold Director: Brand Strategy and fabulously funky with so-o-o-o 2020”, says Alexa designs in stand-out colours, Dark of L’Officiel USA. “After all, “I'm all for the layered look! “because being subtle is we’re all in need of a little fun, Why wear one when you even if it’s just by decorating can wear three!? Layering ourselves with some unique adds a whole other materials and jewels.” dimesion to a potentially boring outfit.” – Joanne, Vintage Creative Director There’s something precious about owning a piece of “It’s ‘ring bling’ for history, associated with me! Wearing a gorgeous charm and character. And ring is like putting on a if you can’t quite get hold -red lipstick – it’s an of actual vintage treasures, instant mood-enhancer, vintage-inspired jewellery is let alone a show-stopper!” being touted as the “new – Amhale, Pictures Editor Pinterest old” – literally.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 123rf.com 9

MARCH MAGIC Make waves for this month’s gemstone

he modern birthstone for valuable, but aquamarine also comes in and pastel March, aquamarine, has blue. Its name means “water of the sea” from the T become a popular gem words “aqua marina”. Its value is influenced by its clarity, for engagement rings and a depth of blue and purity of colour. terrific addition to jewellery and Its soothing hues promote relaxation and peace of mind gemstone collections. These as you ride the waves of life. According to legend, this gem stones lend themselves to glitz is beloved by and brings good luck and smooth and glamour for eveningwear sailing to sailors. Aquamarine is also associated with because of their glitter and courage, justness and friendship. gleam even under muted light conditions. During the day or in Whether you were born in March or not, aquamarine's bright light, they share a soothing refreshing blue is perfect for adding a serene splash of coolness. For a magical March colour to any outfit. The gem is becoming more common look, try pairing aquamarine in jewellery of all sorts, so you have more options than ever with bright , earthy tans and before to bring aquamarine into your . warm neutrals.

Aquamarine comes in shades of translucent blue. Intense dark blues and green-blues that closely resemble the colours of the sea are considered the most

Aquamarines are perfect for adding a serene splash of colour.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 10 Kohls

WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

s a child of the ’90s, I remember collecting Acharms from a very young age, but the epitome of “cool” was my interlocking Nomination charm , which I bought with pocket HOW CHARMING! money I’d saved when I was Timeless, enchanting, 13. I later added a Pandora bracelet to my branded charm irresistible and so very special jewellery collection, which I received from my future For some, charm jewellery husband. It only had one feels playful and nostalgic. To charm – his initial – when he others, a charm is an incredibly gave it to me in 2004 for my meaningful heirloom or 21st birthday. Since then, he’s symbol, serving as an given me a bracelet chain identity marker. It tells the story of who

with a charm of each of our we are and what we treasure most. It’s Amrapali 18ct gold children’s initials on the days of also something many find comfort in and multi-stone bracelet their births. during times of uncertainty – not unlike Net-A-Porter the current pandemic. Zodiac signs, and initials are among the most popular charms for jewellery, but styles designed with religious, protective or astrological icons have proven particularly popular in recent seasons. Now, more than ever, charms are seen as tokens of resilience, reminding us of our strength and that there’s always light at the end of the tunnel.

In the world of charm jewellery, more is more. Like the jewellery equivalent of a scrapbook, charms are collected as wearable ▲ Pandora Disney charms memories that can be added to necklaces,

Now, more than ever, charms are seen as tokens of resilience, reminding us of our strength and that there’s always light at the end of the tunnel.

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, rings and earrings. ▼ Charm . Thomas Sabo And though charm jewellery During the mid-1800s, Queen is currently booming, it’s a Victoria helped spark the genre that’s been around for modern-day charm bracelet centuries. trend and the open-link-with- There’s evidence of charms dangling-pendant style we made from shells and typically associate with it. The HOW CHARMING! animal dating back popularity of this style peaked to prehistoric times. Charms in the mid-20th century after later evolved and were the end of WWII. made of gemstones Today, charm and carved animal bracelets have tusks or . They experienced a were sometimes used resurgence. They’re to identify with a particular among the most deeply religion or as lucky . personal pieces of jewellery you can wear, while being super-fashionable too.

A pre-curated piece is always an option, but if you plan to create your own, here are some simple steps you can take to create the perfect charm bracelet reflecting your unique identity.

Choosing a brand There are many designer Nomination jewellery brands that make exquisite charms and charm bracelets.

The first step involves choosing a charm brand, so you can narrow down your ◀ My Life in Seven options and then a Charms bracelet that will serve as commission the base to which you can continuously add charms. Some brands specialise Jewellery and Charles and Jewellery in European or bead-style

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Happiness is based on Quality not quantity...

High Street Shopping Village, Shop 0/1B High Street, Rosenpark, Bellville, Town, South Africa Tel: +27 (21) 914 0838 Email: [email protected] Website: www.gmfinejewellery.co.za 13

◀ Apple watch charms. Pinterest charm bracelets. This modular bracelet consists of Some brands produce Italian- a thin chain (metal, fabric or leather) onto which style charm bracelets, which any number of charm beads can be added. are different from either Instead of dangling from a chain, these charms traditional or European ones. are threaded like beads, so they hug the wrist Instead of linking dangling for a sleeker appearance and less jangly sound. charms or threading charm beads onto a chain, on Charm beads are made from materials like an Italian-style bracelet, glass, polymer , wood and precious metals. the charms are the links Like traditional dangling charms, they can also themselves. A brand-new be sculpted to resemble anything from a heart bracelet has a series of blank, to an animal or a palm tree. The charm beads are flat links that hook interchangeable, so you can easily customise your together to form a bracelet. bracelet from day to day. You can individualise it by Popular brands of these charm bracelets include replacing the blank links with Pandora and Trollbeads. Beads from any brand are unique charm links (as with interchangeable with other brands. traditional charms, these can range from flowers and hearts to letters, names and kitchen ▶ Woodland ladybird charm. Asprey appliances!). The links are modular and have a standard Like traditional dangling charms, size, so you can easily swap they can also be sculpted to the charm links to match your mood or the occasion. resemble anything from a heart to This style took off among an animal or a palm tree. American tourists returning from Europe – especially Italy – in the 1990s. Popular brands of these charm bracelets include Nomination.

Ultimately, the charm styles Campana Bells Chantecler Capri Chantecler Bells Campana you’re looking for will dictate which brand is the right one for you.

Finding a bracelet chain Once you’ve picked a charm brand, the next step is selecting from a wide selection of bracelets offered by your brand of choice. It’s

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 14

best to start with a good, lustre or fade over time – so strong bracelet chain that you can continue adding and will last a long time. High- removing charms to them as quality sterling silver or gold you wish for decades. ▶ The Hodel are good options, if you can charm is Starter bracelets range not contemporary afford them, as they won’t only in material and colour, cosmopolitan. tarnish, discolour, lose their Hodel Switzerland but also in style. Some of the most popular options are cuff plethora of charms to choose , silver carrier bracelets, from, including gemstone double-curb chains and charm charms, lucky symbol bracelets with clasps. charms, hobby and passion Choosing charms charms, religious charms and Find charms that speak to relationship charms. you. If you can find personal meaning in one, you’ll never

Hyperbae want to take it off. There’s a Bvlgari Charms bring joy to everyone and make very special and personalised gifts that last.

Channelling our inner kids, where one or two colours the look is all about having are dominant. If you’re sure fun and offering endless of your colour choice, go for colour possibilities. a solid gold piece with real gemstones. And if you’re We’re seeing naturally trying a coloured charm occurring coloured for the first time, go for a gemstones or even lower-priced one so you can artificially coloured stones decide whether you enjoy used in a wide variety of the look before investing charms right now. We’re Colour me charming heavily in a piece. especially fond of the multi- Forget sticking to gold and coloured pieces. If you prefer A pop of colour never silver – charm jewellery a simple look, but like the did anyone harm. Try it – designers are introducing an idea of bringing colours it certainly makes a explosion of colour this year. into your charm jewellery difference and is bound to ▲ Baublebar Juniper Charm Bracelet ensemble, go for designs get you noticed.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

16123rf.com

SILVER LININGS

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 17 NQ Jewellery

rom rings and bracelets, jewellery. Historically, silver has chains and charms to been the workhorse of precious F , earrings and metals and its continuing appeal much more, the pages of our in jewellery isn’t waning at all. silver storybook are lined In fact, the purchase of and with fabulous designs to demand for silver jewellery get excited about, especially are already rapidly on the if you’re an up-to-date, rise this year. always-on-trend fashionista. “Modern jewellery designers Silver is the only other precious are to silver metal metal that’s been as revered and because of its many advantages. valued as long as gold has. While It’s easily malleable and it has most and civilisations a long lifespan and unrivalled have placed silver second to gold, beauty. Whether you’re looking

regarding it as “too expensive” for a necklace, finger ring or any ◀ Mini Soho or “on the other end of the other jewellery, you’ll find silver silver-tone bracelet spectrum”, its popularity currently accessories that match your watch. challenges gold for the most tastes and preferences,” says purchased for Stylenet’s Charlie Bloom.

Affordable luxury is in vogue and it’s got staying power. SILVER LININGS Team JZA reports STORYBOOK Lali Silver Jewellery Silver Lali Jewels Ornate Khiry

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 18

If you need a reason to start irritations. This is especially your silver jewellery collection, important in items such as Charlie has five! earrings. Silver ones can be worn in pierced ears without Durability fear of infection. Sterling silver Your silver jewellery can last a contains small amounts of lifetime if you take good care , which doesn’t cause of it. It’s hard for jewellery skin reactions either. made of sterling silver to degrade in quality. The catch Silver accessories are is that items made of sterling easy to maintain silver aren’t cheap. But the It’s no secret that silver ▲ Sterling silver and petrified wood. good thing is that you can Todd Conover Metal Works jewellery tarnishes quickly, pass some of them on to your especially if it sits in a children. To ensure you’re These minerals are often set jewellery box for too long. getting the best-quality silver in silver metal. But here’s the good jewellery, ensure that you buy news: although it Availability of from a reputable retailer. tarnishes easily, different designs you can prevent Keeping up with the trends Silver is a soft metal, which the “dirty look” Even when you aren’t looking helps designers make different by wearing it. for jewellery that lasts a designs of jewellery from the Surprisingly, the oils lifetime, silver accessories mineral. The wide variety of produced by the are still a great purchase, designs provided by sterling body help to especially if you want to silver means you can always keep up with the current find an accessory that trends. If you’ve your taste. Whether you’re ▶ Damballa necklace. Nomad been following them, you’ll looking for a ring, locket, Jewelry and have noticed that jewellery pendant or bracelet, you’re Accessories designers always find a place sure to find numerous options. for silver, even when there’s Great for people with a change in design. For metal allergies instance, one of the latest Jewellery made of , trends includes the use of nickel and other base metals

gemstones and uncut metals. Hung Diesel from Pixabay can irritate your skin, causing allergic reactions. However, silver jewellery is hypo- allergenic, which means that it doesn’t cause skin

◀ Jeulia two-tone cross-over sterling silver ring.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 19 NQ Jewellery

▼ Madison band. Gemvara

clean your silver items. There are also ways to remove a dull look on your silver jewellery and restore its original shine, such as cleaning it, wiping it with a clean cloth or Moha by Geetanjali varnishing it.

We at JZA are delighted One of the latest trends includes that silver’s journey as a shining in “affordable the use of gemstones and uncut luxury” is here. To stay. metals, often set in silver.

There have been numerous jewellery and artefacts. These pieces Slivers manifestations of silver throughout are both highly prized and duplicated history and across different for sale. Many specialty jewellers of silver which continue to the present day. have distinguished themselves Did you know Native Americans, , Asians and commercially and artistically by these interesting many other exotic cultures marked combining, replicating and creating facts? their unique world views in their silver unique silver jewellery designs.

One particular property of silver should be considered when

purchasing jewellery: silver has a higher melting point than gold. This NQ Jewellery makes shaping and sizing silver jewellery more difficult than it is with gold, which is why most jewellers specialise in one precious metal or the other. Rarely is it both. When purchasing silver jewellery, as with any piece, make sure the size and setting are correct.

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From Disney to art to , these are “fun”tastic!

s it art? Yes, it is. Quite literally.

ISwatch’s new special editions – in collaboration wth the of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York – are definitely among 2021’s exciting, fun, colourful and highly original designs. And no matter which of them you wear, it will definitely keep WORDS BY you on centre KWHEZI MAKEBA FUNKY stage – and on time, too!

The special-edition watches feature six unique creations inspired by artworks in MoMA’s collection. The Swatch X MoMA collection includes The Starry Night (1889) by TIME Vincent van Gogh; Hope, II (1907-08) by Gustav Klimt;

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 21

The special-edition watches feature six unique creations inspired by artworks in MoMA’s collection.

The Dream (1910) by Henri Rousseau; Composition in Oval With Color Planes 1 (1914) by Piet Mondrian; and The City and Design, The Wonders of “We’re proud to continue Life on Earth, Isamu Kurita (1966) and MoMA’s ongoing relationship New York (1968), by Tadanori Yokoo. with Swatch through this new The watches can be purchased collection of watches inspired individually or as a collector’s edition. by artworks from MoMA’s Swatch and MoMA developed collection,” commented Robin a special box for the collector’s Sayetta, Associate Director of edition, inspired by the Stair, Business Development for the a prominent architectural feature of museum. “MoMA’s commit- the museum. ment to good design as a part

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 22

of everyday life is exempli- fied by Swatch watches.”

Of course, Swatch has partnered with many recognised names and one of its earlier collaborations this year – for is etched on the glass watch the second time – is with Disney and Keith case that sits atop a red and Haring Studio to bring out a range filled white striped dial for added with vibrancy and colour. depth and movement. Disney’s Swatch watches transform Keith Haring’s best-loved character, captured work and Mickey Mouse into . by Haring, takes centre stage Haring’s depiction of Mickey isn’t always the on the dial of Mickey Blanc Sur typical Disney version. While the Noir, while the pop of yellow designs are recognisable as the cut-out hands and strap loop indomitable mouse from afar, perfectly offset the minimalist they all feature the unmistakable monochrome design. Haring twist upon closer Haring’s trademark inspection, such as the nose mesmerising black and white on the dial of Mickey Blanc curved lines showcase Mickey Sur Noir. Mouse in all his glory on Right now, brighter is Eclectic Mickey, punctuated infinitely better and Mouse by the renowned Swatch Marinière makes a colour- primary colours. Also available confident statement with a solid as a coveted Swatch Maxi and striped red strap, taking watch measuring over 2m, inspiration from Mickey’s iconic Maxi Eclectic Mickey is as . Haring’s illustration of him functional as it's collectible.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE +27 (0)11 883 6747 24 Photograph courtesy Ricci and Sharna

Fresh, new looks for that magical moment with a toast to love JEWELS OF and life ENGAGEMENT 021’s Old faithful look-book brings us a The simple, round (and oval) 2 potpourri of exciting, solitaire is back on top. It never modern and vintage styles. actually went out of style, Of course, choosing an but the past few years have engagement ring is incredibly been all about the drama of personal. It’s not something cushion cuts or the luxury of you want to rush into where emerald-cut stones. Now, it ▲ Classic tapered solitaire engagement ring, and diamond. Vashi. no eagles dare! Here are 10 seems, brides are coveting the trends we discovered: austerity of this signature style ▼ Three-stone salt and pepper grey more than ever. 2021 brides diamond engagement ring in 14ct (and the rest of the world) are rose gold pave band. La More Design loving all things classic, feel- good and no-fuss. This cut’s rise to renewed popularity is a case in point.

◀ Emerald-cut diamond engagement ring in 18ct gold with black ruthenium trim. Nancy Newberg

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE go for gold

www.brescodiamonds.co.za 26

Three-stone rings of sparkle floating on air. The three-stone ring that you Previously used more in know and love has made a fashion and cocktail ring comeback, but this isn’t your settings, the trend is hitting mom’s three-stone ring, nor the engagement ring scene is it the simple side baguette – and the cool factor is off we’ve been seeing for the past the charts. From tiny spirals few seasons. We’re talking to sleek lines, these rings are Three-stone ring. La More Design three large stones of the same both unconventional and or differing cuts that truly mesmerising. make a statement. Whether Dark side you call it “past, present, This year has toughened future” or just “bling, bling, us all up and trends – from bling”, we approve of this fashion to jewellery – are stately comeback. reflecting that strong, new- Off-set stones found . Engagement This floating diamond look rings with gothic motifs gives the illusion of loads are shaking up the typically ▲ Georgian engagement ring with sweet world of weddings pearl and in 10ct yellow gold. Circa 1820s. brillianteart.com. in the best way possible. They speak to the bride who into glitz and knows that the dares to be different, isn’t most important essentials in her wardrobe come in her ◀ Bezel-set trio cluster favourite shade of black. stackable 14ct rose gold ring. The new halo Designers have seemingly tired of the traditional pavé halo surrounding a centre and have given it a major upgrade. From diamond starbursts to fanned-out , these renditions on the halo are nowhere near classic. Best of all, some of these styles are created on separate , so you can switch the look from as simple to as intricate as you choose.

Makenna three-gem ring. ▶ The Étoile square companion band.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 27

Pretty in pastel Paler-hued stones in pastel pinks, blues, greens and yellows have gained popularity for their dreamy tones. For lovers of soft colours, these creamsicle stones of morganite, aquamarine and ▲ Classic and diamond citrine tick the right boxes. three-stone engagement ring. 14ct They’re not as bold as standard white gold. Angara jewel tones like ruby, emerald Square up or blue , but have Emerald and Asscher cuts their own undeniable appeal. have topped the fancy ranks, Statement stacks replacing the marquise and Chunky engagement bands pear shapes that once reigned are replacing the delicate supreme. There’s no question stackables brides have been that these squared-off shapes wearing over the past few years. are gaining traction: their Three black-gold Without sacrificing a statement iconic step cuts and - diamond rings. centre-stone, these bands blogbrilliance.com like facets make them appear feature one that’s bezel-set and larger and give them a unique, still gives the ring “wow!” factor, sparkling flash. no matter how many bands Timeless treasures you wear alongside it. While vintage and vintage- 2021 brides (and the Black magic inspired rings have been rest of the world) Blackened metals like titanium popular for ages, we’re now are loving all things and add edge to an seeing designers simplify the engagement ring, but also overall design, shifting the classic, feel-good and make the diamonds pop, focus back to the centre-stone. no-fuss. whether it’s the centre-stone The most current heirloom- or the pavé diamonds set in inspired pieces are less about the band. Darker metals can intricate deco designs or ornate take on many different styles, metal milgrain. While these from vintage-inspired to sleek rings feel unconventional and and structural. This may seem outside-the-box at times and daring, but trust us: blackened super-classic at others, they’re metals will light you up. still as inspiring now as they were in decades past. ◀ Platinum and diamond ring with old mine cushion-cut diamond, (Source: money.yahoo.com French, Ca1915. Stephen Russell from Harper’s Bazaar)

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 28

This gender- fluid jewellery mood has terrific staying power ◀ A Hannah Martin pearl bracelet ’s not to love featuring a about pearls? double row of black Akoya WThey’re the perfect pearls fastened accessory for any outfit, whether it’s a day out for with a heavy gold shackle. lunch or an evening out with your friends. And it Hannah Martin seems men have caught onto the trend.

Worn this past year by celebrities such as Harry Styles, Usher, Joe and Nick Jonas, Shawn Mendes, Pharrell Williams, A$AP Rocky and Billy Porter, pearl accessories are becoming must-have style statement for guys and reinforce gender fluidity in jewellery.

A striking watch or platinum ring has always added an elegant touch to a man’s look, but in recent PEARLS years, men’s jewellery has become a lot braver and more “out there”. No wonder one of the biggest local jewellery design competitions, PlatAfrica, chose men’s MORE jewellery as its theme for the first time last year. Pearls remain the most elegant and timeless gems THAN in the jewellery repertoire. Their understated power says infinitely more than heavy, chunky chains, flashy stones or OTT items. And while they were always JUST FOR assumed to be a woman’s prerogative, strands of them have begun to adorn male models on runways for brands like Ryan Roche and Palomo . GIRLS!

“There’s something about pearls on the right WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS kind of man that can look edgy and dangerous,

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 29

◀ Harry Styles at the 2019 Met Gala in already rocking the trend back then! Andrew Kelly/Reuters

▼ Maple's take on the class ring.

rather than twee and cutesy (though there’s nothing wrong with cutesy, if that’s your vibe). Styles, with his rugged good looks, barely-washed hair and armfuls of tattoos, for instance, is more than capable of carrying off a full string of pearls, just as A$AP Rocky, with his penchant for grills and aggro tailoring, can make a baroque necklace work with . It’s a matter of contrast,” says Teo van den Broeke, Style and Grooming Director: GQ magazine UK.

▲ Pearls make Pharrell really happy! Billboard

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 30

In recent years, men’s jewellery has become a lot braver and more 'out there'.

▲ An 8mm Shamballa® braided bracelet with intense onyxes, highlighted by 18ct rose gold and a Tahitian pearl. Shamballa Jewels

Many experts in the fashion ▲ A$AP. Pinterest. Photo: Christian Vierig/Getty industry believe pearls for men are part of a larger trend ▶ Shawn Mendes attends the towards injecting classically 2019 American Music Awards wearing a delicate pearl necklace. feminine ideas into the male The Telegraph, UK wardrobe. And the potent, necklaces for men” over the even perplexing simplicity there. The fact that many course of December 2020. of a pearl works just as well high-profile male personalities are experimenting with So, pearls for men have legs historically “female” trends is and staying power? “Hell, yes!” a clear indication that all and says Brittany Simmitz of JCK any trends are up for grabs, magazine, who’s a leading regardless of who traditionally jewellery industry authority. wore them in the past. "String it on," we say!

The Stylight Gender Fluid Fashion Report, based on internal data collected from ▲ Black and white freshwater pearls. its 12 million monthly users, Veronica Anderson Jewellery, SA points to Google Trends

▶ Black pearl with shells pendant reporting a +317% peak in necklace. Pearl Island search interest for “pearl

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Photography: K360 Business Solutions

083 659 2607 | [email protected] | www.karliendesigns.co.za 32

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

Having a stylish ring communicates a strong fashion statement and gemstone- adorned rings are giving it the edge

he future of 2021 – and beyond – brings with it the heart and soul of incredible gemstones. T Each and every one has its own unique and dynamic appeal. In fact, the use of coloured When the gem gemstones in jewellery is a notable trend that’s you wear is the been at the peak of popularity for several years and there’s no sign of it subsiding any time soon. gem you are. Its appeal in men’s jewellery, especially rings, continues to gain even further ground this year. 100% authentic. JZA dug a little deeper…

We were all smiles when we discovered there’s been an increase of coloured gemstones being submitted LORDS OF for certification over the past two years. The Big Three – ruby, sapphire and emerald THE RINGS – as well as being the most frequently submitted – aside, there’s been a range of others too, all reinforcing a rise in popularity of coloured gemstones, which bodes well for the future.

Garnets, , , oynx, and, of late, green gemstones are among this Precious and Semi-Precious ▲ face signet ring. It features a beautiful sculpted pattern on either side Gemstone of the face, as well as a blank onyx circular face. Uwe Koetter certification

◀ Men's silver ocean ring. KEMMI Collection

+27 11 334 4527 / [email protected] / www.egl.co.za JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE When the gem you wear is the gem you are.

100% authentic.

Precious and Semi-Precious Gemstone certification

+27 11 334 4527 / [email protected] / www.egl.co.za 34 STATE OF THE ART

AFFORDABLE PRICES

▶ Sterling silver oxidized tiger's eye. GUARANTEED QUALITY The first thing to Thomas Sabo know when buying a ▶ A statement-making harmony of braided setting, oxidised silver and gemstone ring tiger’s eye. Ephesus Jewellery Art

You need to be armed year’s biggest trends in men’s with information so that rings, but brown and related you can be confident hues are making a subtle of what you’re buying. and sneaky entrance. No There are many matter what colour grabs your ▼ Aurora borealis ring with diamonds unfortunate cases of attention, it’s also wise to have and sapphies. Ellinor Mazza people submitting a some insight into the gem’s ▼ Silver oval-set created sapphire ring. H Samuel stone they’ve purchased toughness and resistance for certification which to chipping or shattering – resists scratching very well. turns out to be either a especially if your work and/or Only a diamond can scratch social environments expose completely different one another diamond by using your ring to “heavy duty”. from what they thought the slightly harder crystal by Mizane Jewe ery it was, a laboratory-grown Contrary to popular belief, face on the slightly softer Artform stone or one that’s been diamond doesn’t have very crystal face. Gemstones are significantly treated, good resistance to chipping crystalline and most can be The future of which affects its durability and can actually be quite chipped/smashed if hit on and value (such as glass- brittle. However, it’s the their plane (a jewellery design plane of weakness filled ruby). hardest naturally Custom made jewellery occurring material, in the crystal It’s very important which means it structure). One that everything about of the toughest your gemstone is fully ▼ Ōura gemstones is Heritage disclosed and that a fair smart ring. , because it’s price is paid for it based made up of strong on its identity, growth interlocking fibres and has origin (laboratory- high resistance to fracturing. grown or natural) and Mizane Jewe ery So armed with some treatments. It’s also a essential gemstone fac(e)ts, Manufacturers of moissanite, good idea to confirm the your “ring bling” is certain to coloured stone and diamond jewellery results on a certificate make headlines! Specialising in engagement and eternity rings with the laboratory to ensure you’re not The Big Three – ruby, sapphire and Custom designs available being presented with a fraudulent certificate. emerald – as well as tanzanite are the most frequently submitted. CONTACT US TO SET UP AN APPOINTMENT

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Contact: Ken Brandt | 076 049 9457 or 011 485 3784 | www.mizanejewellery.co.za STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY

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Artformby Mizane Jewe ery The future of jewellery design Custom made dress jewellery

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CONTACT US TO SET UP AN APPOINTMENT

Contact: Ken Brandt | 076 049 9457 or 011 485 3784 | www.mizanejewellery.co.za 36

WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN ◀ jade cushioned he jewellery industry has been hit with a wave of gender- and tourmaline neutral designs that are setting pendants. T Fernando Jorge a firm stage for inclusivity. According to fine jewellery expert and brand strategist Meeling Wong, jewellery trends follow our lifestyles and today’s men’s fashion offerings are vast and diverse. “Younger men are more adventurous about wearing jewellery, especially rings, pendants, bracelets and ; jewellery is often the next purchase after a watch,” observes Wong. “Jewellery can dress up an outfit or command a style and it distinguishes ▲ Pearl necklace the wearer with a point of view. I’ve with yellow found that men often like the designs Gold pendant. ◀ Doubled ring. Hannah Martin in jewellery made for women – a good Fernando Jorge design is a good design, after all!” BREAKING BARRIERS As an example, Boucheron’s Jack de Boucheron bracelets, inspired by jack cables, can easily be sported by men. Embracing a strong, geometric form, Tiffany’s T1 collection is a re-imagined version of the iconic “T” motif and is realised with a distinctive bevelled ◀ Gentleman Gangster edge. “The goal was to reinvent the ‘T’ lined link white gold motif in a new, bold symbol that bracelet. Hannah Martin very modern,” says Reed Krakoff, Chief Artistic Officer. Those craving subtlety could explore daily-wear gold and silver unisex jewels by Polina Ellis. Inspired by her Greek heritage, the charms from

▶ Rounded rutillated pendant. Fernando Jorge

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 37

Hannah Martin Fernando Jorge Martin started her brand When Jorge came up with in 2005 with the idea that Parallel in 2017, he’d been Redefining it was “men’s jewellery that designing jewellery for about girlfriends could steal”. “I never 15 years. The motivation to the jewellery understood why jewellery design a gender-neutral industry with couldn’t just be for a person was personal – it was Jorge’s who loved it, whatever their strong desire to design pieces gender-neutral gender,” she says. When that both men and women designs Martin first started on this could wear which led to this path, fine jewellery for men collection. “A few years after was barely thought of and the launch of Parallel, I can say only a handful of men were that this collection has seen a seeking it. “It’s great that it’s positive response from men become more recognised and women alike,” he says. and in demand – just as it ▲ Rock and Roll should be! Men look amazing For the jewellery, Jorge yellow gold bracelet. in jewellery,” she says. The wanted something bold with Hannah Martin first collection she launched an organic and effortless feel. commercially, It’s Only Rock ’n He focused on “simple shapes Roll, was designed as jewellery and hefty structures, making for both men and women. “I’ve use of graduating gold lines always wanted jewellery that’s and cushion-cut stones for strong and sexy. Something a decorative effect”. The that makes you feel powerful materials used were yellow BREAKING BARRIERS and confident when you wear gold, beige gold, nephrite the Mitos capsule line and it,” she explains. jade, green , rings from the Minotavros brown diamonds and buffalo Martin also finds the clash collection feature a bold horn. “The collection was of opposites exciting and and androgynous spin. In intended to look good on uses this a lot in her work. Singapore, Jouer by Simone everyone and celebrate Her designs for A New Act of has brought out its unisex harmony within Rebellion explore rebellion Rockstar collection that diversity,” he explains. on many levels, including plays with geometric against jewellery itself. “I With more and more brands shapes and spikes. chose to make a fine jewellery producing unisex jewellery, We asked designers why collection without using any Jorge’s vision has been they gravitate towards bold, stones at all. Gender-fluidity vindicated. “I see this as a gender-neutral designs – and is a big part of my ongoing natural response to a wider to our joy, we discovered that personal rebellion against and better understanding of some of them are already putting the wearers of gender-fluidity in all areas,” working on new pieces. jewellery in boxes,” she says. he says.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 38

▼ Gold quill necklace. Shaun Leane Tomasz Donocik With the Russian Aristocrat collection, Donocik tried to blur the boundaries between gender – androgynous men wearing jewels that defied the conventions of how jewellery should be worn and who should wear it. “It was my first collection and I graduated with it from the Royal College of Art,” he recalls. When designing for men, Donocik uses motifs that are familiar, like stars and studs, while throwing in recognisable shapes and symbolic elements that represent power. He uses alternative materials like leather or in his designs as well.

Gender-neutral jewellery, he says, is a hugely undiscovered area. He also makes an interesting observation: “When you design for men, it’s very easy for women to wear the items too. It’s like a pair of . Women can easily nick their boyfriends’ jeans and jewellery. However, when designing for women, it’s not as easy to transcend the boundaries,” says Donocik.

◀ Chain bracelet. Tomasz Donocik

▲ Small quill gold earrings. Shaun Leane

Shaun Leane Most of the pieces in Leane’s collections are ▼ ring. Tomasz Donocik gender-neutral – it’s a big part of his work. The silhouette is clean, understated and powerful, and underpins all the collections. This silhouette has found a strong appeal among both men and women, particularly the Sabre collection – the interlocking rings have been sold to both sexes since he started his brand in 1999.

Leane, who creates a lot of diamond jewellery for men, says it warms his heart “to see that men are becoming ▼ Bracelet. Ara Vartanian more experimental and freer in their choice of jewellery, and braver and more experimental in their sense of identity”.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 39

▶ Gold ring with . a tendency in men to wear Tom Wood Project jewellery that was previously ▶ Gold chain necklace. regarded as ‘feminine’. They Tom Wood Project layer chains, mix vintage with new jewellery and silver with Although Leane feels that gold,” says Jensen. brands still segment men’s and women’s jewellery, he’s Ara Vartanian buoyant about the slight The majority of Vartanian’s movement towards unisex creations (with the obvious jewellery and believes this is exception of women’s jewels) an area which needs to be are unisex. “Some pieces are explored further. He’s currently structured differently, due working on a fine jewellery to the body shape of a male. collection which will arguably I see it often among my be his best gender-neutral one clients – men wearing pieces I designed for women and yet. “The collection touches on and a modern, androgynous women wearing jewellery I human emotions, which don’t expression, and these designed for men,” he says. discriminate against gender; I elements have led to an feel it will appeal to everyone,” endless array of unisex signet The Brazilian-Armenian says Leane. rings and bracelets. designer is quite chuffed to be witnessing a shift in styles, Tom Wood Project Link band rings and chain with more luxury brands Mona Jensen’s Norwegian rings are sought-after styles and independent jewellers roots play a huge role in her by men and women. The designing gender-neutral aesthetic and design. The newest signet rings from pieces. founder and Creative Director the brand are an updated of Tom Wood Project says series with finer stones, such There’s definitely a strong she favours functionality as green quartz and orange cross-over in men’s and . The cushion-shaped women’s jewellery, he says. rings are the best-sellers and “Even though I sometimes their updated version, cushion design a particular piece for open, has an open space in men, women love wearing it the middle. “Women wear themselves and vice versa. I ▲ Double finger rings. more masculine and bolder don’t believe there are labels Ara Vartanian jewellery now than they did a for who should wear my few years ago, but we also see jewellery, be it a woman’s design or a men’s piece. I don't believe there are Anyone has the freedom labels for who should wear to wear anything they like and are comfortable in,” my jewellery. says Vartanian.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SOLITAIRE THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY AND LIVING N°110 www.solitairemagazine.com ASIA PACIFIC EDITION

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◀ A gorgeous strand of Venetian glass beads from Ghana. Dar Leone JUST BEAD IT! From to chains, WORDS BY GILL HYSLOP necklaces to bracelets and to chic hair barrettes, beaded jewellery has made a comeback

ith the 2021 colour palette at hand, you won’t be W short of options to add pizzazz to your wardrobe with a beaded moodboard of fun, frivolity and fabulousness.

What’s interesting is that almost every material known to man has at some stage been manipulated by a jeweller into an exotic and standout piece. And just like works of art, today’s beaded jewellery items have a certain edge to them that add just the right amount of drama.

▲ Owambo hand-carved wood circa 1975.

◀ Upcycled beach clean-up necklace.

◀ This Maasai necklace is 100% handmade using natural beads of different colours and leather. It consists of a large, flat disc that surrounds the neck made up of rows of beads threaded onto wire, secured and spaced with cowhide strips. Arikrea

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 42

create joyful pieces of jewellery as an antidote.

▶ . MaXhosa “A few years ago, I met the late Bakary Sillah, bead According to Colleen Brand merchant extraordinaire from from African Baroque, the The Gambia. He generously demand is being driven by shared his extensive unique pieces that come with knowledge of the beads a rich story. and of Africa, both ancient and contemporary, “People want to know more with me. Contemporary about the materials that have African beadmakers work with been used in the creation recycled materials and ancient of the items they purchase, skills that result in a raw beauty as well as about the makers. which, for me, surpasses slick Beads offer an abundance of factory manufacture.” stories; after all, we’ve been wearing them and trading Brand adds that she’s with them for centuries,” inspired by the rich says Brand. of Africa, which she blends with her European roots to “I began making beaded create an eclectic and slightly textile jewellery to wear as contradictory mix that's filled part of a performance artwork with energy. that addressed child murder and gender-based violence. “I love the dish-shaped The subject matter became necklaces worn by the Maasai overwhelming and I started to and the weathered ostrich eggshell and leather jewellery of the . But I also adore the lavishness and opulence of the Baroque era,” she says.

Karin Walters of Marzipan says beaded jewellery is a cultural classic.

“Beads were one of the original forms of currency or in the African continent, so I feel there’s something very classic and enduring AfricanBaroque about a simple string of

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 43

them,” she says, noting that today’s Covid- 19-hammered world could actually drive the resurgence of beads.

“Staying at home and not going out as much as we used to, perhaps we’re dressing down… and it’s more practical to wear something less flashy.”

In terms of design, African Baroque’s Brand believes the Covid-19-infused present is leading to a desire for nostalgia, but with an eclectic twist – and could mark ▲ Maasai bracelet. Aspiga a resurgence in beaded jewellery. says Brand. “His gender- “I think the absence of travel encourages neutral chokers and brooches people to bring the exotic into their are being well received homes through jewellery that has its roots internationally, too.” in distant lands. Social media’s made everything easily accessible and people “For me, it’s not about what African Baroque Photographer Leigh Page | Styling and shoes: Coast and Koi | Jacket: Travelling Jackets of Africa have time to spend at home, browsing for material or fashion trend is new ideas and products from all corners of influencing us. Our global the globe. Buying something with a story crisis is making us more aware brings a whole new world into your living that we have to act and that’s space,” says Brand. a driving influence,” says Walters. And when it comes to trends on the global stage, South “We live in a very beautiful Africa’s doing more than simply part of SA with gorgeous following trends. coastlines, mountains and, of course, spectacular “I think we’re developing our own fynbos, so I’d say that our unique visual language drawn environment has shaped our from the vivid cultures of the inspiration. Ultimately, we’re African diaspora – for example, colourists and just enjoy the utilising Xhosa beaded designs as endless combinations of a starting point and developing it creating colour palettes in our ▲ Nassarius kraussianus shell to create a concept that appeals beads strung and used as jewellery collections.” at Still Bay Wits University. on the global platform. Designer Photo: Craig Foster. MaXhosa is a prime example,” May the bead play on!

What’s interesting is that almost every material known to man has at some stage been manipulated by a jeweller into an exotic and standout piece.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never Pass into nothingness; but still will keep A bower quiet for us, and a sleep Full of sweet dreams, and health, and quiet breathing.

- John Keats

JZA Magazine supports and encourages planetary and environmental awareness

[email protected] | www.jewellerysa.co.za

Independently published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd 45

WORDS BY AMHALE JALI

eflect, renew and Bamford Watch Department reset” is the dictum Rfor 2021. With that comes the welcome return to outdoor open spaces. This has prompted a great and glamorous style reset to green ▲ This unique Franck Muller Casablanca – in watch dials and straps and personifies the spirit of collaboration and joint across jewellery storyboards. artistry with renowned modern artist Daniel And we’re going to see much Arsham and expert engraver King Nerd, Johnny Dowell, joining forces with Bamford Watch more of this colour in all its Department on this five-piece limited edition. hues and iterations as its transition grows. Piaget Polo watch 42mm. case. Piaget “The more submerged people ▲ Rado True Thinline are in modern life, the greater Nature. Rado their innate craving to immerse themselves in the physical beauty and inherent unity of the natural world. This shift is reflected by the proliferation

GREEN

▶ Prospex. Seiko PIECES

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 46

of all things expressive of fashion and home goods. As it greenery in daily lives through has throughout history, multi- urban planning, architecture, faceted emerald continues lifestyle and design choices to sparkle and fascinate. globally,” comments Pantone, Symbolically, emerald brings which selected “Greenery” as a sense of clarity, renewal its Colour of the Year in 2017. and rejuvenation, which is ▲ Certina DS-1 Big Date Anniversary very important in today’s “Emerald represents prosperity, watch. Swatch Group complex world.” sophistication and luxury in ▼ Raymond Weil . many cultures, making it a So wind down and watch the Raymond Weil stylish choice for high-end show…

Chronomat B01 42. Breitling

We’re going to see much more of this colour.

Get your green savvy on growth, increase feelings of hopefulness and optimism, and break the emotional • The colour of life, renewal, nature and demands of others. energy, green is associated with growth, harmony, freshness, safety, fertility and • Additional words that represent different the environment. shades, tints and values of the colour green include: emerald, sea green, sea • The colour green has healing power and foam, olive, olive drab, pea green, grass is understood to be the most restful and green, apple, mint, forest, lawn green, lime, relaxing shade for the human eye to view. spring green, leaf green, aquamarine, , • Green gemstones are believed to help chartreuse, fir, kelly green, pine, moss, jade, create balance, promote change or sage, yellow-green, sap and viridian.

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WORDS BY SMITHA WHAT A SADANANDAN WONDERFUL

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i t WORLD h A lighthearted Q&A with designers of Connect Agency

ast spring, As the coronavirus pandemic significantly. “Walters Faith, during the Paris spiralled out of control, nations Renna, Julien Riad Sahyoun, Fashion Week, around the globe imposed Amira Karaouli, Larissa

Julien Riad Sahyoun L Nina Dzhokhadze was travel restrictions, impacting Moraes, Apples and Figs, Kova busy meeting buyers lives and businesses. Jewellery, NeverNot, Eshvi, and media members Dzhokhadze knew Ilaria Lanzoni, Armiss, at the Four Seasons she had to act Drutis and Sopho Hotel George V. She quickly; she had to Gongli now exhibit on was focused on introducing push the distribution our virtual platform,” her tribe of 10 designers to overseas and connect says Dzhokhadze. the retailers and journalists virtually across retailers. “We’re constantly at the Connect Showroom’s “The world was entering connected throughout the pop-up space. “Little did we an unknown chapter and year and at any time of the know then that the world we needed plan B. We built day.” Although she’s hopeful would go into complete a beautiful online platform of organising a physical show lockdown,” says Dzhokhadze, dedicated to wholesale in autumn, she believes digital co-founder of NeverNot. development and introduced showrooms, like hers, are the way forward. our designers directly to international retailers,” she says. We turn the spotlight on the members of Connect Agency: Connect Agency’s virtual showroom began reaching out to the media and retail stores (Farfetch, Harrods, TSUM, Harvey Nichols and

Printemps), inviting them Kova to view the works of the ◀ NeverNot yellow gold heart designers. Since last year, with diamonds. the agency has expanded

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 49

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LARISSA MORAES

Where do you want to travel when life returns to normal? I’m travelling to Mogi Mirim in Brazil. Alice, my great-niece, was born

y r e during the pandemic and I haven’t ll e w Je s seen her yet. I can’t wait to hold her! is m Ar Which celebrity would you like to go on holiday with? ARMISS JEWELLERY I’d like to go on holiday with someone fun. I’d Where do you want to travel when life invite Melissa McCarthy. I watched some of her returns to normal? interviews and she made me laugh in all of them. . I’ve never been there and I also admire the way she’s broken down false after almost a year of lockdown, that standards of beauty and is an example of real country would certainly inspire me with beauty. It would be a super-fun holiday. its wildlife and wide-open spaces. The What have you been binge-watching on Lord of the Rings, one of the most iconic Netflix-? I finished my binge sessions movies, too was shot there. and recommend these shows: Unbelievable (2019) Which famous person would you on Netflix, which explores the difficulties a victim like to go on a holiday with? Mariah faces in reporting sex crimes; and The Marvelous Carey would be great company for my Mrs Maisel (2017-today) on Prime/Amazon, which family during our Christmas holidays. highlights achievements of women with a certain She could sing us all of our favourite lightness and good humour. Christmas carols! How do you unplug? Playing with my puppies What have you been binge-watching is the best rest there is – I get unconditional on Netflix-Amazon? I don’t have much love, have a good laugh and I don’t think about time to spend on Netflix, but sometimes anything at those moments. It’s a joy. in the evening I enjoy watching The to learn something more about the royal, often debated and charming family who Larissa Moraes owns the most exquisite jewels.

How do you unplug? Self-care is the best way to unplug; having a bath, exercising or taking care of my skin. Personally, the two things I like most are going to the hairdresser and riding a bike in the countryside.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 50

Renna

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RENNA

Where do you want to travel when life returns to normal? I live in Manhattan and I’m dying to get back to , where I usually spend a few months a year. If I’m able to get vaccinated against Covid-19 by AMIRA KARAOULI summer, I’ll head straight to Sardinia! Where do you want to travel when life Which celebrity would you like to go returns to normal? I want to go home to on holiday with? Gwyneth Paltrow. We’d Tunisia and after that to Dubai, as we’re based cook up a storm! between Paris and Dubai. What have you been binge-watching Which celebrity would you like to go on on Netflix-Amazon? Bridgerton, The holiday with? Queen Rania of Jordan. She’s Great British Bake-Off and RuPaul’s elegant, classy and humane. Drag Race. What have you been binge-watching on How do you unplug? By painting, Netflix-Amazon? Queen of the South – I really meditating, testing out a new recipe or like the story and the perseverance and strength having a warm bath. of the protagonist – and The Crown, which explores the life of one of the most powerful queens in the world.

llery If you could help save one store in your we Je s ti u

neighbourhood, which one would you r D pick? One of the small businesses that have

Renna really suffered during this Covid-19 crisis. It’s a recyclable clothing store.

How do you unplug? I switch off completely by doing meditation and listening to music. I also travel whenever I get an opportunity.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 51

ILARIA LANZONI

Where do you want to travel when life returns to normal? After spending time with my family in Italy, I want to visit all my friends who live in different countries around the world. I want to hug them!

i n o z n Which famous person would you like to go on a L ria holiday with? Diane Von Furstenberg. She’s an Ila inspiration.

Ilaria Lanzoni What have you been binge-watching on Netflix- Amazon? The Queen’s Gambit for a sense of fantasy and escapism, and Schitt’s Creek, because I can immerse myself in a journey of laughter, emotions and learning. Watching it makes me feel so good that I never want it to end!

How do you unplug? By doing yoga classes on Zoom.

DRUTIS JEWELLERY Which celebrity would you How do you unplug? For a like to go on holiday with? quick unwind, I gaze at the Where do you want to Elizabeth Taylor, especially if water (a river or the sea) and travel when life returns to she could bring her jewellery breathe. On weekends, I like normal? Anywhere warm collection along with her. to have a big feast with my and sunny, near water, where What an extraordinary, family; Eastern European I can hop into a car and drive exciting life she had! culture is built on tables of from spot to spot without delicious food. I follow that up worrying about reservations, What have you been with a cosy movie. restrictions or capacity binge-watching on Netflix- limitations. A Californian or Amazon? The Crown again southern Italian road trip is on and Bridgerton, of course, for my list. One day... the story and the outfits, How to Get Away With Murder, llery we which keeps me on the edge Je s ti u

r of my seat, and Good Old D Friends, always comes to the rescue which when I’m tired and want an easy giggle. Elena always goes for Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot series: mystery with a touch of class. Drutis Jewellery

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Established 2006

Finest quality gemstones, beads and unconventional diamonds

We supply gems to the Jewellery Trade, be sure to ask your Jeweller to contact us for a wide range of beautiful precious and semi precious gems.

We can also refer you to one of our preferred Jewellers anywhere in South Africa.

www.ajantaafrika.com

Member of JCSA 53

Seasonal picks OF FRUIT hit the hot spot AND FLOWERS WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

trawberry delight

New York-based Sorellina rustled up S delicious jewels perfect for staycation. Inspired by the dark, early days of quarantine when Nicole Carosella and her younger sister, Kim, were daydreaming of summer, their Fragola capsule collection (“fragola” meaning “strawberry” in Italian) features diamond details on sapphire-sprinkled pendants, rings, earrings, bangles and necklaces – all crafted in 18ct gold. “We were looking to make something fun and sweet that could create a little joy during these crazy times. Strawberries are also quite nostalgic for us; they remind us of our childhood and one of our favourite We were looking to cartoon characters, Strawberry Shortcake,” says Nicole. make something fun and sweet. Strawberries pop up on the signet rings and signet pendants set with , pink , and white and black onyx. Sorellina’s signature piece is the signet ring. “We’ve always been fascinated by signet rings and their rich history. Traditionally, a signet ring represents your family heritage or social status; it’s Collection one of the oldest forms of personalised FRAGOLA jewellery,” says Nicole. Fragola’s vintage Brand elements channel an vibe, SORELLINA (NYC) while blackened gold accents add a sorellinanyc.com “bit of edge to the playfulness inherent in the strawberry motifs”.

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▶ Spring ring with yellow and white gold, diamonds, spessartite , , straw and sycamore . Mathon Paris

Countryside charm

Aude Mathon, granddaughter Les Quatre of Roger Mathon (founder Saisons captures of Mathon Paris) and the brand’s Managing Director, fleeting time, has brought out a capsule colours in nature collection of rings inspired and changing by seasons. The new designs are a poetic homage to seasons. her grandfather and his naturalistic universe.

The first chapter, Les Quatre seasons through the medium perfect landscape for a family Saisons, captures fleeting of jewellery. This collection is house. This hidden Eden, in time, colours in nature and inspired by my family house the middle of generous and changing seasons. The Chêne in the French countryside welcoming nature, has been (Oak) rings are realised in that originally belonged to my inspiring Mathon Paris for the form of stylised leaves grandparents,” says Mathon. over three generations,” adds rendered in gold, gemstones Mathon. “All the designs were Orchards from her childhood and lacquer. inspired by my grandfather’s memories have been drawings; some pieces in “In the new collection, Les transformed into wearable the collection will be original Vergers [‘The Orchards’], we’ve oak leaves and flowers. “The editions of his designs.” drawn on various techniques bucolic orchard sat in a such as chiselling, marquetry green meadow, surrounded and lacquer to capture our by forests, while the river observations of changing flowed quietly – it was the

▲ Daisy ring with yellow and white gold, diamonds, autumn tourmaline, pink sapphires, tsavorites, lacquer, mother-of-pearl, straw and wood marquetry. Les Vergers collection, Bague Paquerette

◀ Yellow gold ring with diamonds, emeralds and lacquer. Mathon Paris, Chêne Hiver

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Buy with Confidence

When you buy jewellery from a member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA), you know your piece of jewellery has a fair market price, its components have been responsibly, ethically, and sustainably sourced, and that your satisfaction with your purchase is of great importance to the jeweller.

Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: [email protected] • www.jewellery.org.za 56

So much more to

fantastic 7-night stay explore this Easter at any one of Tsogo Sun’s Southern Sun A From only resorts – in South Africa – for a family of four (2 adults + 2 kids). Southern Sun offers guests R1,150 stylishly appointed hotel Per room, per night accommodation coupled with WIN! Including breakfast A GEM OF A PRIZE CAN BE warm, hospitable service and T’s & C’s apply a well-deserved reputation for excellence. With hotels across WON IN THIS ISSUE OF JZA! South Africa, as well as in Guests enjoy chic, modern where its history of service Book Now Mozambique and the United amenities in settings that excellence, great amenities and Arab Emirates, Southern Sun enhance relaxation and fantastic dining has established caters to travellers from every comfort. This combined Southern Sun Hotels as a corner of the globe. with excellent dining and South African favourite. personalised service, ensures Discover more about Tsogo a hotel stay that is soulful, Sun’s terrific portfolio of hotels authentic and unique. and resorts at www.tsogosun. The perfect blend of style, com. Hotel reservations and sophistication and relaxation Customer Contact Centre: 0861 awaits you at Southern Sun, 44 77 44 or +27 11 461 9744.

HOW TO ENTER

1. Like and share JZA’s Facebook page as well as Tsogo Sun’s.

2. In the pinned-to-the-top JZA It’s ti me to re-discover desti nati ons, enjoy great hotel stays and experience our warm hospitality this Easter Holidays. Issue 2 post, simply write ‘Tsogo Sun/ Relax with sunset cocktails by the pool, indulge in delectable dining, or revive your soul with relaxing spa treatments. JZA win’ in the comments section. We have great family rates at a variety of our hotels countrywide between 2 - 5 April 2021. Like and share. Remember 2 kids under 18 stay and eat breakfast free when sharing with 2 adults. Closing date for entries is 07 June 2021. The winner will be contacted via a private Facebook message and therein T’s & C’s apply. asked to provide all contact information. Their name will appear in JZA’s Winter 2021 Issue. To book, visit tsogosun.com

The prize is subject to availability and may only be used out of season. All other T&C’s that might be laid down by Tsogo Sun will apply. The prize is non-transferable and cannot be sold or converted to cash. The competition is open to all South African residents over the age of 18 except employees of Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd or Tsogo Sun.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE So much more to explore this Easter

From only R1,150 Per room, per night Including breakfast

T’s & C’s apply Book Now

It’s ti me to re-discover desti nati ons, enjoy great hotel stays and experience our warm hospitality this Easter Holidays. Relax with sunset cocktails by the pool, indulge in delectable dining, or revive your soul with relaxing spa treatments. We have great family rates at a variety of our hotels countrywide between 2 - 5 April 2021.

Remember 2 kids under 18 stay and eat breakfast free when sharing with 2 adults.

T’s & C’s apply.

To book, visit tsogosun.com 58

▲ STONEHEART Starry medallion. : silver 925 with rose gold/gold . ▲ JENNA CLIFFORD www.stoneheart.co.za Zelenia dress ring in 9ct white gold (375) showcasing a silvery drop- ▶ KIRSTEN GOSS shape Mabé pearl, decorated with Good Morning, Beautiful cuff. a rose gold lotus flower embossed Hand-carved from mixed metal with with pink sapphires. 18ct vermeil and stone. www.jennaclifford.com www.kirstengoss.com

RETAIL

▲ OLIVE CORAL tri-sterling silver earrings featuring delicate glass beads with a sterling silver stud and butterflies THERAPY! in a beautiful colour combination of rose gold, black and nude. www.olivecoral.co.za

◀ XITA DESIGNS Yellow Thombi neckpiece. Wearable handcrafted pieces made primarily from faux ▲ SEASHORE JEWELLERY leather and inspired by colours Bougainvillea and earrings associated with bravery. Created with silver and gold- by award-winning - resin on studs. born designer Onê Rapelana. www.seashore.co.za Instagram: @xita_designs. Facebook: www.facebook.com/ ▶ MARZIPAN xitabw Coil bracelet in lemon cream. Pale wooden overdyed beads combined with accents of gold and cream. www.marzipan.co.za

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▼ IDA ELSJE JEWELLERY Petunia sterling silver hoop floral earrings with faceted brulé drops. 24ct gold-plated over the entire surface. ▲ KIIRA AFRICAN FINE JEWELLERY www.idaelsjejewellery.com Table Mountain Peak pendant in a minimal circle featuring a solid silhouette of Table Mountain and a flush-set 0,02ct brilliant-cut diamond. www.kiira.co.za

▶ HOMBISA Milky Way. A set of three stack rings featuring Akoya pearl, diamond, oxidised silver and ebony. www.hombisa.com

JZA's seasonal look-book of fun, fabulousness, inspirations and ideas to adorn. From glorious gold to sublime silver, a kaleidoscope of colours and magical materials, this retail therapy session is now

officially OPEN. Let’s go shopping! ▲ PAYS DES RÊVES LIFESTYLE Vintage white gold 18ct ruby and diamond earrings. www.paysdesreveslifestyle.com

▲ SOUL DESIGN JEWELLERY Marrakech Zest handmade ▲ SEASHORE JEWELLERY earrings in 100% brass with assorted Bougainvillea and gold leaf earrings stones/glass and brass beads. with silver and gold-pigment Option to plate in 9ct gold. resin on stainless steel studs. www.souldesign.co.za www.seashore.co.za ▶ KINKEL JEWELLERY Classic sea urchin necklace in 9ct yellow gold (unplated). Moulded from a real small sea urchin with a 9ct yellow gold chain. www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

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Unplugged and unpinned, brooches make a return, not as demure feminine adornments, but as sassy style statements

rooches have been making a comeback over the past few B years, with the world’s most renowned fashion houses, such as Gucci and , sending models down the runway adorned with them on their lapels, on silk and in their hair.

Brooches are classic accessories which have been worn for THE BROOCH IS BACK centuries. Today they’re regarded as ◀ Lay of Leisure brooch made from an old found , silver and pearls adornments, but they were originally with a 9ct gold pin. Eric Loubser functional items, intended to secure ◀ Maeve’s brooch (1990) in lapis pieces of cloth to the wearer. lazuli with white nephrite jade and 18ct yellow gold. Charlotte de Syllas The oldest brooches date back to the (Photographer: Simon B Armitt) , made with thorns and flint and later with metal. It wasn’t until the Roman Byzantine Trevor Noah shines period in the 3rd century that at the Grammys 2021 with a Tiffany & they took on a more decorative Co Schlumberger® purpose – worn by men and Apollo brooch women to fasten a or , or accessorise an outfit.

Brooches are versatile and can be worn to convey a message

Christina Zani justjared.com

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE ◀ Far left: Trifari gold protea flower brooch. Pinterest

◀ Nouveau brooch in 18ct gold with diamonds, pearls and silver. Romilly Saumarez Smith THE BROOCH IS BACK WORDS BY JASON AARONS, WITH INSPIRATION FROM THE LATE ALICE WEIL

Oval brooch II in 18ct gold and platinum, with platinum gauze fusion inlay. Jacqueline Mina

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▶ A unique brooch from the original Amaru collection. A sculpted base of black acrylic holds thousands of individual, static, forged silver, 18ct gold and platinum metallic elements that shimmer and ruffle over the surface. There's a double stainless steel pin at the reverse, suitable for a medium to heavy fabric. Emmeline Hastings

or spark a conversation. Wendy Ramshaw – a world-renowned British ceramicist, jeweller and sculptor – referred to the brooch as “a portable art form”.

Brooches have become statement pieces and echo many a personality, from the demure to the extrovert. Many now embrace gender- fluid iterations. Design styles If you love brooches and are become limited to the range from the subtle and looking for a timeless piece dimensions of our computer enchanting to the large of jewellery to add to your screens. Daring iterations and bold, whether they’re collection, there’s something hitting the market today geometric, smoothly rounded, for every style and preference. continue to prove the brooch’s oval, rectangular, crescent- bold statement is here to stay.” shaped, scalloped or with “While still adored by royalty – Sarah DiMarco, Veranda patterned borders. and the Hollywood elite, brooches have fallen in and ▼ Brooch, 1962, Andrew out of fashion for the past 50 Grima (made by HJ Co Ltd). (Photographer: Clarissa Bruce) years. Recently, though, the brooch has experienced a sort of – particularly in the era of Zoom, as the opportunity for making fashion statements has

◀ Protea’ diamond brooch from Uchihara Group. Jewellery.net

Brooches are versatile and can be worn to convey a message or spark a conversation.

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▲ Gold rings. Theo Fennell

▼ Ring in rhodiated silver and gemstones. Lyn Ban Netflix © 2020

WORDS BY JASON AARONS REGENCY

ROCKS!Immerse yourself in the magnificent was rather tempted to write under the splendour of Bridgerton’s stunning jewellery I pseudonym of Lady Whistledown and begin with: 2021’s fashion trends and “This author finds herself jewellery storyboards. compelled to share the most curious of news.” But “the most “Thanks to designer curious of news” is the very real Ellen Mirojnick, hired by

fact that the Netflix costume Shonda Rhimes company ▲ Anabela Chan ruby 18ct gold drama is inspiring many of Shondaland, we’re inspired to sapphire earrings. Moda Operandi

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▶ One-of-a-kind necklace in 22ct gold and carved . Marie-Hélène Detaillac

▶ Ben-Amun 24ct gold- plated crystal bracelet. The Outnet

▶ Ring in 18ct gold. Bibi van der Velden

go free and wild this year with romantic embellishments, floral details, gemstones and pearls,” says Esther Ligthart at Bizzita.com. Liam Daniel - Netflix © 2020 “There’s a romantic, playful character to Regency jewellery that makes the era feel joyful and an escape from the present moment, much as Bridgerton does,” sleeves, Regency jewellery is says Anthony Barzilay Freund, the perfect .” Editorial Director and Director of Fine Art for 1stDibs.

Netflix © 2020 Swoonworthy, witty, emotional “Full of colourful and romantic, Bridgerton stones – diamonds has become the most- weren’t being mined watched series on Netflix extensively at this with a viewership of 82 point – and decorative million households. In

Liam Daniel - Netflix © 2020 flourishes and , January 2021, the series the pieces can almost was renewed for a second feel casual, appropriate for season. So expect more daytime wear with jeans and spectacular jewellery to a T-. For style-setters feast your eyes upon. In the forever inspired by lively meantime, jazz it up with JZA! period dramas, the English

countryside and, occasionally, ▲ Oscar de la Renta small imitation empire waists and puffed pearl drop earrings. Nordstrom

For style-setters forever inspired by lively period dramas, Regency jewellery is the perfect adornment.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 66

FAME, FORTUNE AND FABULOUSNESS The most famous jewellers of all time remain as iconic as ever

rom to Tiffany’s, to Lalique, and on to ◀ The newest Elsa F Fabergé, these jewellery Peretti cuffs in sterling silver with black brands are legendary. Our jade, sterling silver with sister publication, SA Jewellery turquoise and 18ct yellow gold with green News, opens each of their jade. Tiffany’s exclusive front doors for us.

The House of Cartier The House of Cartier was

▶ Panthère de Cartier is an formed in 1847, when Louis- emblem: an inspiration that’s been François Cartier took over the reinvented over time through Paris jewellery workshop of his graphic, sculptural, naturalist and abstract creations. Cartier teacher, Adolphe Picard. His son, Alfred Cartier, had three sons – Pierre, Jacques and Louis – all of whom played a major role in establishing the company as it’s known today.

Louis-François was a master jeweller whose designs have inspired, and continue to inspire, the Cartier brand. Pierre opened and managed their London store in 1902 and another store in New York in 1906. After the death of his

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 67

FAME, FORTUNE AND

▲ Tiffany HardWear. A freshwater FABULOUSNESS pearl ring in sterling silver. Tiffany’s daughter, Nathalie, established were auctioned by the French Les Must de Cartier to serve government in 1887, Tiffany’s the younger generation. In the again bought the bulk late 20th century, the Rupert thereof. In 1886 the jewellers family of SA – through their introduced the concept of the investment vehicle, Richemont diamond engagement ring as – obtained the controlling we know it today. At the time, interest in Cartier. ring designs obscured the sparkle of a diamond, which Tiffany’s was invariably included in the Tiffany’s was founded in bezel setting. Tiffany sought 1838 by Charles Lewis Tiffany to liberate the diamond with (1812-1902) and his partner, a six-. This John B Young, as Tiffany & move lifted the stone above Young, a “fancy goods” store the band, where it could ▲ Cartier’s limited-edition jewellery on Broadway in New York. collection – Les Galaxies de Cartier show its brilliance. Over time, Success was swift and sure, – was inspired by the cosmos. Pink the jeweller has evolved to gold, diamonds, moonstone and and another partner, JL Ellis, become an integral part of milky quartz create an untamed joined in 1841. In the 1940s, network of square cones that refract pop culture, with movies Charles introduced the now light on one another endlessly. Cartier like Breakfast at Tiffany’s, as iconic signature colour blue. well as an adored red-carpet two brothers in 1942, these In 1841, he imported a range accessory among Hollywood’s houses fell under different of paste jewellery from France A-list. management, while Pierre to the USA. The success of retained his shop in Paris until this venture prompted him Harry Winston he retired to Geneva in 1947. to sell “the real thing”. He Harry Winston’s fame as a He once owned the famous became famous when, in jeweller started in the late , which he 1848, he acquired part of the 19th century when he bought sold in 1911 to Evelyn Walsh French after the the entire jewellery collection McLean. In the 1970s, French regime of King Louis-Philippe of Arabella Huntington, industrialist Robert Hocq I collapsed. When the crown the philanthropist wife of acquired Cartier and his only jewels of Marie-Antoinette a railroad magnate who, in

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 68

◀ Secret Wonder by Harry Winston. Exquisite medallions, meticulously set with a starburst of round and pear-shaped diamonds, rotate to reveal a symphony of sapphires, diamonds and aquamarines hidden on the other side. Harry Winston

▶ Arethuse bracelet. court battle over the sale Black crystal, red resin and vermeil. Lalique of the company, which was finally resolved in 2000 when her own right, ◀ ring. Deep was once known crystal green. Lalique Fenway Partners, a private as the richest investment group, invested $100 million in the jewellery woman in the Operating from New store chain, with $54 million USA. This collection, York and , of it used to buy out Bruce’s whose designs were Winston became known share of the business, leaving somewhat old-fashioned, as “the jeweller of the stars”. Ron, the Chairperson of the originally came from In 1958, he furthered his company, in . Today the Cartier in France. Winston fame by donating the Hope company has diversified into redesigned the pieces, which Diamond to the Smithsonian diamond in he cleverly used to establish Institute. Two decades after and Africa. a name as a skilful creator of his death, his sons Ronald and high-quality jewellery. Bruce engaged in a lengthy Lalique The name Lalique evokes the brilliance of jewellery, the wonder of transparency and the brilliance of crystal. Before it became a brand name, it was the name of a French artist of genius, René Jules Lalique and of his heirs, who shared his creative flame. Reputedly the world’s best glassmaker, Lalique is also regarded as the foremost jeweller of the period.

◀ Métiers d’Art creations highlighted with quintessential Harry Winston diamonds in an artistic destined to shine for a lifetime. Harry Winston

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When his father died in 1876, ◀ The Fabergé Secret Garden collection – an unusual mix of materials including he started an apprenticeship carved , enamel and gold. with Paris jeweller Louis Aucoc Fabergé and thereafter studied design at Sydenham College in The success of the two London. By the mid-1880s, he Russian brothers was had started his own workshop changing the nature of the and quickly acquired illustrious business. Out went the clients such as Cartier and prevailing trend towards Boucheron. His designs diamonds and in came the incorporated unusual nature design-led artist-jeweller with motifs such as running water, a penchant for colour through disillusioned with the many exotic animals and the naked both stones and reviving the poor-quality imitations that his female form. Iconic actress lost art of enamelling. The jewels had inspired and, from Sarah Bernhardt and art brothers added imaginative 1910 until his death in 1945, he collector Calouste Gulbenkian power to their repertoire, as devoted his talents entirely became his patrons and well as objets de fantaisie to the design and creation furthered his fame. Each new such as the Imperial Easter of glassmaking. Lalique exhibition of Lalique jewels Eggs (traditionally presented glassware – especially his created a stir in the art world to the tsar and tsarina vases – are among the most and defined Art Nouveau every year), which are now sought-after collector’s pieces design. However, he grew regarded as pinnacles of the around the globe. He mass- ’s art. Today these ▶ Heritage white gold, blue produced his glassware and are treasured in some of the sapphire and diamond fluted often frosted his work to give it egg . Fabergé world’s leading museums a personal touch. and private collections. ▼ Heritage yellow gold His fame as a master The craftsmanship of the diamond and turquoise guilloché enamel egg glassmaker eclipsed Fabergé creations was of the ring. Fabergé his genius as a very highest standard, with goldsmith and he is exquisite attention to detail, regarded as one of mechanical (such the most influential as moving parts) and intricate figures in art history. overlays. This formula made Fabergé objects irresistible The House of Fabergé and the ultimate possessions, In 1882, Peter Carl Fabergé as well as the gift of choice. took over his father’s very jewellery business. With gratitude and Together with his brother appreciation to Fabergé, Agathon, he quickly Harry Winston, House of transformed it into an Cartier, House of Fabergé, international phenomenon. Lalique and Tiffany’s.

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YOUR A-Z OF JEWELLERYPART 2 A dictionary of jewellery delights and insights

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

e started "at the very beginning" W (what a very good place to start) in our Launch Issue and we wrap it up in this issue. Remember, though, there are no true endings, just new beginnings, so shine on with our "S-Z"!

S IS FOR Statement jewellery: if the first thing people notice Nebü about you is your jewellery, then it most definitely is decidedly intricate and it’s a statement piece. For the most curated, tasteful example, a large and intricate and effortless way of staying necklace worn with bare in the spotlight. shoulders creates a visual impact that’s instantly T IS FOR registered by those around Titanium: Venture into you. Likewise, a bright red new territory with titanium cocktail ring worn with a engagement rings, wedding white power will prompt ▶ Sky Tower bands, pendants, chains, necklace covert glances that you’ll in titanium. bangles and earrings. pick up smilingly. In short, Anna Hu Titanium offers better statement is the opposite of resistance to corrosion than subtle. It's colourful, large or just about any other metal

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 71

▼ The JOAGO Watch Series. Designed by Jose Ruiz and Pablo Garat

▲ Urban Designs Contemporary Jewellery. Viviana Carriquiry

Nebü available for jewellery today. It’s rugged and it’s bold, In addition, it’s brilliant and colourful and confident. highly durable, lightweight, V IS FOR scratch-resistant and hypo- Valentine’s Day: We’re all allergenic. Now, there’s a "did heart and hope you had a you know?"! beautiful and super-special U IS FOR one this year. But who says Urban jewellery: It’s love should be restricted to contemporary and highly 14 February? All year round, individual. Think rings, despite the trends, you’ll find a cufflinks, pendants, religious jewellery piece to express your icons/symbols, dog-tags, unyielding love 24/7. Heart- bangles, bracelets, neck shaped motifs in necklaces, chains, brooches – even the earrings, pendants, charms ▲ An alliance of black titanium and kind of jewellery you’re likely and bracelets won’t be in diamonds in a pair of earrings, Call Me Trottola. Vhernier to spot at your local Sunday short supply. indoor or outdoor flea market. W IS FOR Watches, of course: In 2021, smart wrists will be sporting an Vhernier array of timepieces which are reflections of each individual wearer, from modern, funky, classic dress and eclectic to

▲ Lollipop ring in 14k yellow gold with green turquoise and pink tourmaline. Retrouvaí

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE 72

vintage-inspired and retro and unsigned, and a variety revival. Whether you "go big" or of precious stones. Other "go small" your timepiece is all highly respected SA-based about you and your personality, auctioneers are Stephan Welz from wood, stainless steel, & Co and Strauss & Co. gifts. Many jewellery brands silver and gold to vibrant, Z IS FOR have created beautiful zodiac bright non-traditional colours. Zodiac: Astrological symbols symbol and constellation From high-end luxury to stylish in gold, silver, platinum and jewellery, so you won’t have and affordable, time is on stainless steel encrusted with any difficulty finding yours! your side! Read more on JZA’s birthstones make the perfect And that's a wrap for issue 2. watch features in this issue on pages 20 and 45. ▲ Aquarius hoop earrings. MatchesFashion.com X IS FOR ◀ "Sakura" ring. X-Xtra stuff: It’s essential. Private auction Christie's So with just "Y" and "Z" to go, you’ve obviously accumulated quite a bit of jewellery suss. But have you given any thought to insuring your Strauss & Co precious gems? Contact the Jewellery Council of SA for advice. Knowing reputable There are also cross-over designs, which companies and valuators with whom to insure with is vital see the disintegration of traditional as are the requirements you rules and barriers veering towards non- have to have in place when gender-specific, shared products. safekeeping them at home or even when you travel! Tel: 011 484 5528 or email: [email protected].

Y IS FOR: Yen: So your heart’s desire is a one-of-a-kind emerald ring or a rare Dior necklace? And they’re up for auction? Contact a specialist auctioneer. World-renowned Christie’s is The "Cosmos" represented in South Africa magnetic wooden and typically features modern watch. Urban Designer and period jewels, signed

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE BE ON-TREND. ADVERTISE IN

Contact Jenny Justus (Director: Brand Strategy) on tel: 082 450 6052 or e-mail: [email protected]