Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage – Week 2 - Roncesvalles [email protected] – SIGN-UP TO JOIN US, RECEIVE EMAILS, GET YOUR PILGRIM PASSPORT OR ASK QUESTIONS!
WE HAVE ACCOMPLISHED AN IMPORTANT MILESTONE! WE HAVE HELPED EACH OTHER THROUGH ONE OF THE MOST CHALLENGING PORTIONS OF OUR PILGRIMAGE: CROSSING THE BASE OF THE PYRENEES FROM FRANCE TO SPAIN. WE TOOK THE “ROUTE NAPOLEON”, ONLY OPEN FROM APRIL TO OCTOBER DUE TO HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS WITH SNOW AND COLD IN THE LATE FALL THROUGH EARLY SPRING. MANY PILGRIMS ARE INJURED IN THIS SECTION; OVER THE MILLENNIA, MANY PILGRIMS HAVE DIED ON THIS PASSAGE. WE HAVE PRAYED FOR THEIR SOULS. OUR PILGRIMS ARE DEFINING THEIR “WALK”. 15.6 miles: St. Jean to Roncesvalles; 13.6 mi. to Zubiri We began our journey from St. Jean… up, up, up. St. Jean Pied de Port The Route de Napoleon is a strenuous uphill walk on a steep country lane. At the Pic D’Orisson at 3,593 feet we meet the Vierge d’Orisson (Virgin of Orisson; Vierge de Biakorri). Shepherds brought the ceramic statue of Mary from Lourdes, also in the Pyrenees. She is on top of a pile of rocks at the highest point. Two decades ago, the stand of stones was split by lightning, but the statue held firm and was Roncesvalles unharmed. She is a patroness and protector of shepherds and their sheep as well as all who pass on this mountaintop. Col de Lepoeder We crossed into Spain and climbed to 4,692 feet to the Col de Lepoeder, the highest peak of this crossing and the second highest in the Camino. All of Spain was visible ahead of us, and France behind us! We saw the Grifton vulture, whose wingspan is up to 9 feet! We saw Hill ponies running freely… black-faced sheep… Chamois, a small goat-antelope . The views – spectacular. We silently prayed as we walked – some have the Rosary in hand seeking solace and guidance. Some praised God for the beauty before us. Others walked silently in their own private meditations. We continued… now, down steep pathways with our inspiration ahead, the rooftops of Roncesvalles! Click on image for prayer card:
About our patron, St. James, the Apostle On our journey, we’ll earn about the patron of pilgrims, and of Spain, St. James. Little is said of St. James in the Gospels and none of his writings were left behind (the New Testament's "Letter of James" is attributed to another disciple of the name). James is the son of Zebedee and Salome (Mt 27:56; Mk 15:40; 16:1). He is referred to as "the Greater" to distinguish him from the Apostle James "the Less", who was probably shorter of stature. We don’t know about his early life. He was the brother of John, the beloved disciple and probably the elder of the two. Roncesvalles to Zubiri
We pass through Puerto de Ibaneta We stop at the ruins of Our Lady of where it is believed that Roland fell during Roncesvalles for silent prayer. It is here his defeat in 778 – a sneak attack by the that, in years past, the chapel sounded a opposing forces guided by his jealous bell at night and in fog to guide pilgrims brother-in-law/stepfather or locals who to Roncesvalles. The bell is now said to be were angry with a promise not kept. in the Capilla de Santiago in the town’s Charlemagne lost his beloved nephew here. Monastery.
We arrived in Roncesvalles! “The Valley of Thorns”. We have passed through small villages along the way to reach our first major stop, the medieval hamlet of cream-white stone and black slate-rooves nestled around its large 12th C monastery, though people have passed through for millennia. This town is featured in the movie, “The Way” by Martin Sheen (see next page).
The Monastery: Real de la Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles. The Capilla de Santiago and Capilla de Espiritu Santu
This is Spain’s earliest Gothic church, consecrated in 1219. It is beautiful with early Gothic stained-glass windows, and a serene place to contemplate the Queen of the Pyrenees, as she is called across the mountain range. A silver-wrought canopy shelters the altar and the 13th C Gothic statue of Nuestra Senora de Roncesvalles (Our Lady of Roncesvalles). She is made of wood covered in luminous silver and is displayed on the front altar. An ornate canopy of silver above her. We attend a reverent Mass at 8:00 pm and receive a pilgrim’s blessing. We have met the challenge of climbing over the Pyrenees – a big accomplishment! Our Lady of Roncesvalles – in the 9th C., two shepherds looking over their flock saw a stag approach them and indicate that they should follow it. The stag led them to a hidden area in the mountain and began to scratch the earth with its hoof. It revealed an ancient dolmen, standing stones from the Neolithic period – buried by time. Inside sat an image of Mary, she became the Queen of the Pyrenees.
A tour allowed us to see the Capilla de Santiago. A simple stone single-aisle nave chapel with a solitary sculpture of Saint James on the altar. The bell, outside signaled the way for pilgrims. In Christianity, the bell is Capilla de Santiago sometimes used to symbolize the voice of God calling the faithful to him. We also visited the Capilla del Espiritu Santu (Holy Spirit). It is built over a crypt holding the bones of pilgrims who died in the Valcarlos crossing – a somber reminder of the fleeting nature of life. The Capilla was first built in the memory of Charlemagne and Roland – some of his men were buried here too. We saw the ‘oliphant’ that is believed Capilla de to be Roland’s– an ancient horn made from an elephant Espiritu Santu tusk that can make a blasting sound; it may be the one Roland blew on Puerto de Ibaneta when he was attempting to call ahead to Charlemagne for aid. Roncesvalles to Zubiri
We saw “Charlemagne’s Chessboard” an ornate inlaid black-and-white chessboard patterned reliquary box 32 squares, each filled with a relic, including two thorns said to be from the crown worn by Jesus. It from the 14th C – an example of medieval craftsmanship. (This is not actually Charlemagne’s – as it is the wrong century!
Roncesvalles Hospitality Institution In order to help pilgrims crossing the We left Roncesvalles on our way to Zubiri. Pyrenees along the St James' Way, The forest was dense, thick with beech and around 1127, the Bishop of Pamplona, oak. Our path is largely downhill. It was time requested by King Alfonso I 'the to slow down; it was quiet and still. The Battler', founded the Roncesvalles forest was supposedly a place of witchcraft Hospitality Institution. in the 16th C, when nine women were put to death by the Inquisition, accused of practicing witchcraft in the forest. We walk through the village of Burguete where we visit the San Nicolas de Bari church to say a prayer and seek the support of San Nicolas, a protector of pilgrims. Burguete is known as Hemingway’s village in the Pyrenees – where the writer would come and stay, to go trout fishing with friends nearby. We stop for a snack in the local market. Soon, we pass by La Cruz Blanca – the white cross – Roland’s Cross erected in Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari – inside the story 17th C to protect the path between of the stag and Our Lady of Roncesvalles is depicted in the stained-glass windows. Roncesvalles and Burguete.
We enter Zubiri via Romanesque bridge Puente de la Rabia… tradition that if animals are led three times across the bridge, they will be protected from rabies!
Sources: Camino de Santiago – Sacred Sites, Historic Villages, Local Food & Wine; Village to Village Guide Camino de Santiago; A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago
We encourage you to The Way: A father heads overseas to recover the body of his watch “The Way” by estranged son who died while traveling the "El camino de Santiago," Martin Sheen & directed and decides to take the pilgrimage himself. by Emilio Estevez! In 2009, Martin Sheen walked sections of the French Way with his son Emilio Estevez while filming the popular film ‘The Way’. “My father was born just outside of Santiago, so I grew up knowing about it. I always had that fantasy that I would walk the Camino de Santiago... Emilio’s son Taylor was working for me as a young assistant. We were [driving] on the Camino and we stopped at a little restaurant along the way, and Taylor met his future wife — they’re married now. Her mother’s name is Miracle (in Spanish), and I thought “Hmm … there’s something going on here.” He believes the Camino de Santiago is the most perfect metaphor of life.
A life-long pro-life advocate, we are delighted to have Martin ‘with us’ on the journey that began as a replacement for the Respect Life Bake Sale! Spotlight on our Fundraiser Beneficiaries
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