ISTANBUL GUIDE

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE ANCIENT CITY CITY GUIDE

An Istanbul city break is everything you could possibly wish for if you are looking for a break in a fascinating ancient city with a modern twist.

It’s a place packed full of indulgent cuisine, exceptional architecture, rich culture, friendly locals and great vibe. THINGS TO SEE IN Istanbul is in a unique position, straddling two continents of Asia ISTANBUL and Europe. It was on the European side of the mighty Bosphorus Straights where the Byzantium, an ancient Greek colony was founded in 657 BC.

Reintroduced to the world in 330 AD as the new capital of the Holy Roman Empire by Emperor Constantine the Great, the city became known as .

Rapidly growing to become the wealthiest city in Europe, sitting at a hugely strategic point along the silk road trading routes between east and west.

There are so many things to see and do here. It all depends on how long your Istanbul city break is going to be. Also, you should think of how you are going to tackle all the attractions and bunch them up into areas to save excessive journeys.

Despite the sheer size, Istanbul is surprisingly easy to get around. We personally prefer to have a laid back visit, especially to big cities. Taking it easy is the only way to tame a city as huge as Istanbul. 2 We usually have a busy morning exploring the high ceiling and colonnades while bathing in the sights, then spend a couple of hours in the light of medieval chandeliers. afternoon relaxing in our apartment or hotel. Remember that the Blue Mosque is not a museum, Then go out again in the evening for dinner and a but a fully functioning house of worship. You’ll drink or soothing tea in Istanbul’s case. need to take your shoes off before entering, bags to carry them are provided. Ladies should also This way we don’t always get to see every single cover their hair with a headscarf before entering landmark in the city but just plan around the ones the grounds of Sultan Ahmet Mosque. we simply can’t miss. We suggest exploring Visiting the mosque is free and it’s open for Istanbul one area at a time to get the most out of sightseeing in 3 sessions most days. We’d your visit. suggest checking timings online before your visit.

Istanbul Museum Pass It goes without saying that arriving as early as possible is an advantage. This way you will beat If you are planning to visit a number of museums the crowds and get to enjoy the beautiful and historic marvels in the city, you might courtyard and grounds. We went at 9am and it consider getting the Istanbul Museum Pass. was ideal.

The pass cost 85TL and is valid for 5 days. It will Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) grant you fast track access to iconic landmarks First a church, then a mosque and now a museum, such as Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul ‘The Church of the Holy Wisdom’ is absolutely Archaeological Museums and many more. worth visiting.

To see if it’s good value for you, pick the It’s hard to comprehend how old and how well attractions below that yo want to visit and add up preserved this ancient structure is. the admission charges at the end of this section. It’s interesting to see how the Islamic and OLD TOWN Christian elements are in unity here. Sultan Ahmet Mosque (The Blue Mosque) The walls of this church/mosque are decorated Constructed between 1609 and 1616, this with Byzantine mosaics depicting the scenes of marvellous historic building is quite breathtaking. Jesus and Virgin Mary. While the beautiful Islamic calligraphic roundels adorn the mihrabs. They are The imposing five dome structure surrounded by depicting the names of the family members of six minarets has been the icon of the Istanbul Muhammad. skyline for many years.

Known for its hand painted blue tiles, the Blue Hagia Sophia opening hours: 9am – 7pm in Mosque’s interior is as majestic as the exterior. summer months, 9am – 5pm in winter season. The The swirls of intricate eastern patterns adorn the museum is closed on Mondays.

3 Topkapi Palace But to enter the ‘forbidden’ chambers, you will have to purchase a separate ticket unless you We nearly missed a visit to this palace. It would have the museum pass mentioned earlier. have been a huge mistake as the Harem in the palace turned out to be one of the highlights of The Harem was predominantly occupied by the our Istanbul city break. sultan’s wives and eunuchs and run by the sultan’s mother. This part of the museum is the most Overlooking the , this medieval impressive with beautiful tiles running across the residence of the Ottoman sultans consists of four rooms and hallways of the Harem. Well worth the courtyards and a number of smaller buildings 25TL. within the site. It has hundreds of rooms and covers around 400,000 square meters. The palace also houses exhibitions of some of the most precious relics of the Islamic world. During the 15th -19th century, the Topkapi, meaning the Canon Gate, was an important Topkapi Palace opening hours: 9am – 4:45pm in political centre. With approximately 5,000 winter season, 9am – 6:45pm in summer months. residents it was the biggest palace in the world. The museum is closed on Tuesdays. However, the sultans abandoned it for their newly The Basilica Cistern built European style home across the water to the north, the Dolmabahce Palace. Don’t miss this ancient underground water The most spectacular part of the palace, no reserve on your Istanbul city break. doubt, is the Harem. 4 This impressive chamber also known as Sunken But the Scheherazade tales aside, the Grand Cistern is supported by 9 meter high columns and Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered was built in the 6th century during the reign of markets in the world. Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. The first thing that catches the eyes are the The primary purpose of the Cistern was to store, yellow painted walls and arched ceiling, supply and filtrate 100,000 tons water to the city. embellished with blue ribbons. Next come all As you walk through the dimly lit Sunken Cistern, the sheen and glitter. Then come the shopkeepers look out for the Hen’s Eye otherwise called the offering you a carpet. When you tell them you weeping column. can’t take it with you, in all seriousness, they promise to ship it for you. There’s no excuse It’s believed that the column grieves the slaves accepted! who died during the construction of this massive Cistern. Make sure to put aside a good portion of your day Further away, you will get to see the for wandering, tea drinking and people watching iconic Medusa heads, a major tourist attraction. here. It’s easy to get lost in 61 streets of this supposedly the first shopping mall in the world, One is placed sideways, the other – upside down but don’t panic. The deeper you go into the and until now it’s unclear why. market, the more you discover. Of course there are legends about them being monsters or guardians, but presumably the Try to stray away from the busier parts around columns were placed this way for practical the edges and explore the hidden streets of the purposes. bazaar.

It’s most likely that due to its dramatic Have a wander in the Antique Market (The Old atmosphere, the Basilica Cistern became featured Bazaar) at the center, a cup of Turkish tea or a in several films such as Dan Brown’s film haircut? Charlie had one at the Turkish barbers adaptation ‘Inferno’ (2016) and James Bond film and had a pretty good trim for €5. ‘From with Love” (1963). Grand Bazaar opening hours: 8.30am – 7pm. Basilica Cistern opening hours: open every day The bazaar is closed on Sundays, religious and from 9am – 5:30pm in winter season and 9am – bank holidays. 6.30pm in summer months. The Spice Bazaar EMINÖNÜ QUARTER It might be time for a quick Turkish delight, what The Grand Bazaar do you think? Then it’s time for the Spice Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar… Where to begin… It’s a maze Built in 1664, the otherwise entitled Egyptian Bazaar will blow your mind with its colours, scents of shimmering genie lamps, glowing lanterns and and textures. magic carpets.

5 There’s saffron and love tea, figs, dates, and Spice Bazaar opening hours: everyday from lashings of Turkish coffee. It’s a cooks heaven. 9am – 7pm excluding religious and bank holidays.

Out of all the colourful Turkish delight, try the BEŞIKTAŞ NEIGHBOURHOOD chewy Lokum. You will see them neatly stacked in a pyramid shaped tower. Dolmabahce Palace

Stuffed with almonds and pistachios, they come in The Dolmabahce Palace was no doubt a highly different flavours but are quite expensive. A kg of luxurious place with countless rooms, decorated this delightful Turkish sweet starts from 60-80TL. with oversized chandeliers and all-glass-staircase railings. Coffee lovers, look out for the Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi shop. Just follow the fresh Also a more comfortable home from which to roasting smell. entertain the foreign guest compared to the medieval Topkapi Palace. If you see a big queue of people next to a shop with large windows, you’ve found it. Here you can Here, the founder of the Republic of , buy a small quantity of 120 g for as little as 5TL. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk himself occupied a small portion of the residence until his death in 1938. Whenever we see huge queues of locals, we always go to investigate. This is one of the ways You can even see the room where he passed to find something authentic. If it’s good for the away. locals, it must be good for the visitors.

6 Originally a harbour, the grounds of the palace Tower provide a nice backdrop of Istanbul seen across the Bosphorus. For 360 degree panoramic views of Istanbul head to in Galata district. However, this exquisite 19th century European style palace left us somewhat uninspired. This medieval tower, one of the oldest in the world was constructed in 528 AD as a lighthouse. It was It must have been the lack of eastern style devastated and repaired several times during its motives and the abundance of European palaces existence. Ironically it was damaged by fire while and stately homes we have previously visited in it was used as a fire watch tower. the UK and the rest of Europe. We found the Topkapi Palace a more worthwhile visit. The tower is not that tall. The viewing platform is only on the 8 floor, but being built on a hillside it The admission to this palace is not included in the offers fantastic views over Istanbul. Istanbul Museum Pass and cost 60TL including the Harem. There’s a cafe on the top floor and a restaurant one floor below. Dolmabahce Palace opening hours: 9am – 4pm. The restaurant is slightly overpriced while the The palace is closed on Mondays and Thursdays. cafe is a nice space to chill with a cup of Turkish tea. Try to get a seat next to one of the windows ORTAKÖY DISTRICT for some lovely views.

Ortaköy Mosque Galata tower opening times: open every day from 9am – 8.30pm. If you are looking for a great view of the iconic Bosphorus Bridge, head to Ortaköy Mosque. Galata Bridge

Located on a pier in Ortaköy village, the mosque We dare say If you haven’t walked the Galata provides a rather picturesque backdrop for those bridge, you haven’t really seen Istanbul. The insta-shots. Galata bridge is quite a symbolic part of the city Right behind it you will be presented with one of as it connects the imperial and the modern side of the nicest views of the elegant bridge stretching Istanbul. across Bosphorus from European all the way to As you walk the bridge, pause to witness the daily the Asian side of Istanbul. life of a local fisherman. Enjoy the picturesque This is the place to eat Kumpir, the jacket potato view of the fishing rods lining the railing and peek like dish overstuffed with colourful ingredients. into the buckets full of mackerel.

And what a better way to enjoy the view if not The fish caught on the day will be sold to the with a hearty portion of Turkish street food. boats beneath the bridge. The men on the boats will grill the fish for Balik ekmek, the iconic fish GALATA DISTRICT sandwich.

7 Take a walk underneath the bridge to have a The two symbolic sides of the monument display lovely view of the city. Atatürk in his early military days and opposite, him dressed in modern western clothes. You might even want to sit at one of the restaurants lining the bridge during the summer. Istiklal Avenue Though it might not be as appealing in colder months. If you fancy an afternoon of shopping, the 1.4 km long Istiklal Avenue could be the perfect spot. From boutique shops to cinemas, you can find pretty much everything here. Maybe it was the fairy lights or the crisp air that Taksim Square is considered to be the modern reminded us of Regents street in London. But most centre of Istanbul. With the large and likely it was an overall European vibe lingering hub, shopping street and hotels, the square is between the grand Ottoman era buildings. It’s a easily one of the most popular meeting points in shame that the picture-perfect was under the city. repair during our visit.

The Independence (Republic) Monument is the If you, like us, are looking for that slightly more most important masterpiece in the square and a local vibe amongst the usual attractions, look for a testament to the founder of the Republic of quiet alleyway (Olivia Gecidi) off the Istiklal Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Street.

8 The tiny Mandabatmaz coffee shop makes some How to get to Miniatürk: nr 36T or 38T go of the nicest Turkish coffee if not in Istanbul, directly to Miniatürk from Taksim Square or a taxi definitely in the area. costs around 50TL from the center.

Karaköy Address: Sütlüce Mahallesi, İmrahor Cd. 7/1, 34445 Beyoğlu/İstanbul This area is what makes the ancient city of Istanbul so exciting. Old converted warehouses Miniatürk opening hours: 9am – 7pm in summer, along the harbour side will soon lead you into the 9am – 5.30pm during winter months. narrow streets filled with hipster cafes, Bulgarian Iron Church restaurants, museums and lively nightlife.

Despite the new swanky establishments, the older An unusual sounding attraction is exactly what bakeries and family businesses seem to be doing we like to discover when travelling. just fine. After the original wooden structure burnt down, Spend an afternoon in Istanbul Modern for a dose the current, neo-Gothic style basilica was of contemporary art or pop into Ottoman-era Kılıç constructed entirely out of prefabricated cast Ali Paşa Hamamı. iron.

Here is where you should try the flakiest baklava The Bulgarian St Stephen’s church is one of the in town. Head to Karaköy Güllüoğlu and join the world’s few surviving prefabricated cast iron hungry crowds for the ultimate sweet tooth churches. experience in Istanbul. It’s a fair walk from the central area of Istanbul, AWAY FROM THE CENRE but you get to walk along the peaceful waterfront most of the way. Miniatürk It was, unfortunately, closed for refurbishment on our visit in November 2017. Did you know that there is a model village in Istanbul? It’s impressive, well built and easy to Address: Merkez Mahallesi, Abide-i Hürriyet Cd navigate. No:70, 34381 Şişli//İstanbul

This one and only miniature park in the country Panorama 1458 brings together all the significant landmarks to one place, including the Atatürk Olympic Stadium. If you are looking for unique attractions in It’s like taking a road trip through Turkey! We Istanbul, you should definitely head to Panorama spent a lot of time in this open air theme park. 1458 Historic Museum.

To have a better idea of the scale of the models, Inside the museum there is a panoramic 38 meter check out this short, 2 minute video on our diameter painting, depicting the battle of Fatih Youtube channel. Don’t forget to like and Sultan Mehmet conquering Istanbul in 1453. subscribe after watching!

9 Panorama 1458 opening hours: the museum is To get to Maiden’s Tower, take one of the shuttle open everyday from 9am – 6pm. boats from Kabatas going to Uskudar. You can buy your boat tickets (20TL) at the pier booth. Address: Merkez Efendi Mahallesi, Topkapı Kültür Parkı, 34015 /İstanbul Maiden Tower opening hours: open everyday between 9:15am - 6:30pm. Maiden’s Tower Princes’ Islands Maiden’s Tower (Kizkulesi Tower) is another great spot for panoramic 360 degree views of Istanbul. If you have any time to spare during your It was originally built in the 5th century as a Istanbul city break, the Princes’ islands offer a water surveillance tower. nice day trip from Istanbul. The archipelago consists of a chain of 9 islands, 4 of which The locals say that the name comes from a legend. (Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and And so it is said that the Byzantine emperor Kinaliada) are open to visitors. locked his beloved daughter in the tower to protect her from her own fate, a deadly snake Vehicles are not permitted on the islands making bite. them a perfect getaway from the buzzing streets of Istanbul. Even though the tower was surrounded by water, she could not escape her destiny. The snake, To reach the islands, take one of the speedy unsuspectingly, was brought in a fruit basket as a domestic from and Kabatas birthday gift by emperor himself. Sneaky! districts on the European side.

10 To beat the crowds, try getting the earliest boat A Quick Budget Guide to Attractions in possible. You can check the timings and Istanbul prices here. Sultan Ahmet Mosque (The Blue Mosque) – Free Asian Side Hagia Sophia – 40TL A few extra days on your Istanbul city break Topkapi Palace – 40TL itinerary will give you a great opportunity to visit Topkapi Palace Harem – 25TL the Asian side of Istanbul. The Basilica Cistern – 20TL Often neglected by visitors, it has a lot to offer The Grand Bazaar – Free from cosy cafes to great food scene and the former sultan’s summer residence. The Spice Bazaar – Free Dolmabahce Palace – 40TL, 60TL with Harem Enjoy Üsküdar, Kadıköy and buzzing Yeldeğirmeni, the hip neighbourhood. Maybe pop Galata Tower – 25TL into the bar street locally known as Barlar Sokak Miniatürk – 15TL and mingle with the locals? Panorama 1458 – 15TL To get to the Asian side, get a ferry to Maiden’s tower – 20TL Üsküdar from Beşiktaş or a ferry to Kadıköy from Kabataş, Karaköy or Eminönü.

11 FOOD SCENE IN ISTANBUL

Food in Istanbul is delicious and very affordable which makes an Istanbul city break super enjoyable.

What makes the food so enjoyable here is the natural and fresh ingredients. We ate so much on this trip, but never felt heavy full. More like happy full, I’d say.

We are still daydreaming about the cream and honey dish they serve for breakfast. Turkish Breakfast You’ll find them sold right from the 3 elaborately decorated boats at the southern end Consider Turkish breakfast as one of the of the Galata bridge by the Eminönü () ferry unmissable attractions. terminal.

You must try it at least once while on your Midye dolma – again, you will see this street Istanbul city break. It’s plentiful and so, so good! food option all over Istanbul.

Turkish breakfast usually consists of Peynir – It’s a mussel stuffed with spiced rice and pine Zeytin, a combination of white cheese and nuts. You eat it right there at the stall, with a marinated olives. squeeze of a fresh lemon.

Then comes the bread and Bal – Kumpir – this is another of the nation’s beloved Kaymak (butter/cream and honey). street foods for hungry locals and travellers alike. Lastly a skillet arrives to your table with a It looks like a jacket potato. tasty Sade Menemen (scrambled eggs with One of the places in Istanbul to eat Kumpir is tomato and pepper) or Yumurta, a fried egg still Ortaköy district, right next to the cooking in the silver dish. Mind your fingers, the beautiful Ortaköy Mosque or on the Kumpir Sokak dish is still hot! (Baked Potato Street).

For meat lovers, try the Karışık Here you will see rows of stalls with colourful Menemen or Karışık Yumurta – scrambled/fried ingredients selling the oversized baked potato for eggs with mixed meats. a very cheap fare.

For even more flavour, add a plate of Sogus – A tasty snack to devour while enjoying the view fresh pepper and tomato. of the iconic Bosphorus bridge in the distance.

Don’t forget to enjoy your breakfast with Turkish Börek or Patatesli Börek – a flaky pastry tea or coffee. layered with cheese (Börek) or potatoes (Patatesli Street Food in Istanbul Börek).

Simit – a Turkish version of a pretzel. It’s You will find Börek in little bakeries around the sometimes also called a Turkish bagel. city. It’s a great alternative for breakfast or a quick snack. You’ll see tiny carts all over the city selling these crisp from the outside and chewy from the inside If you are travelling as a couple, you might bread circles. consider sharing one as they might come in pretty hefty portions. Balik ekmek – a very popular fish sandwich. Balik ekmek is freshly made from the catch of the day, Pomegranate juice – it’s sweet and sour, fresh onions and lettuces stuffed in white bread. and delicious.

13 Have a go, the juice is really refreshing and Drink Costs readily available. Tea and coffee varies from 2.5TL per cup at the Food Costs local stalls and eateries to 8TL in touristy places.

You can eat street food for a mere 2TL Alcohol, however, is more expensive in Istanbul. per Poğaça (a tasty breakfast roll stuffed with A shot of Raki will cost you 15TL. various fillings) or dine in and have a succulent chicken shish for up to around 20TL. Beer starts from around 20TL per bottle in a bar.

Here’s what we spent on food in total over 6 days:

• Breakfast – 74.60TL • Lunch – 174TL • Dinner – 383TL • Tea/coffee and cake – 133TL • Snacks – 6.5TL

14 WHERE TO EAT IN We couldn’t get enough of the fresh ingredients and friendly ISTANBUL service! Wherever you go, the food in Istanbul is great, but the best places hide in tiny alleyways around the city.

Having a bad kebab on your Istanbul city break is very unlikely, but if you are after an exceptional Turkish food experience, try these recommendations:

Lades Menemen Restaurant – let’s start with breakfast. Like we said earlier, it’s an attraction in itself. We found Lades Menemen perfect for our morning feast.

The food here is great as is the service. But come here before 11am, especially on weekends. Otherwise you won’t get a seat. Even though it has plenty of tables across two levels, it gets full up pretty fast.

Breakfast with all the trimmings cost us 38TL for two.

Address: Katip Çelebi Mahallesi, İstiklal Caddesi, Sadri Alışık Sokak, No 11, Beyoğlu, İstanbul

15 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı – a fantastic grill house and our Address: Hoca Paşa Mahallesi, Caddesi top choice in Beyoğlu. The food here, from & Hoca Paşa Sokak 3/A, 34112 Fatih/İstanbul pumpkin and pepper dips to kebabs is truly fantastic. Ficcin – this Turkish – Circassian restaurant is a little different from the usual Turkish food scene, We couldn’t resist coming back here and ended but nonetheless sensational. up dining at this restaurant for 3 nights out of 6. Everything on the menu tastes great, but make The Turkish Mantı (dumplings) seem to be the sure to try the aubergine kebab, it’s fabulous. staple dish of this place and rightly so. Drowned in a rich garlic yoghurt and pepper infused oil, they The service was also very friendly and efficient. were very delicious. We even got treated to a free cup of tea after our dinner. The spinach stuffed crepes are another favourite. They go really well with the yoghurty dip. Typically we spent from 90TL – 110TL for two. In total we spent 65TL for dinner. Address: Şehit Muhtar Mahallesi, Bekar Sk. No:28, 34435 Beyoğlu/İstanbul Address: İstiklal Mahallesi, Kallavi Sok. No:13 D:1, 34430 Beyoğlu/İstanbul Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı – this was our favourite lunch spot. Watching the cağ man Balkan Lokantası in Beşiktaş – Fantastic skilfully cutting the meat of the horizontal spit was home-cooked food! It’s a self service affair so truly entertaining. grab a tray and trust your senses. Some of the dishes might look unfamiliar, but whatever you As for the food, it’s the best lamb kebab we’ve choose will taste great. had so far. For all the gorgeous food we paid 35TL in total. Located near the central station, this place makes it a great lunch spot. It’s only a short Address: Sinanpaşa Mahallesi, Akmazçeşme distance walk from the main attractions in the old Sokak, No 6, Beşiktaş, Istanbul town too. Tarihi Karadeniz Döner – a stone’s throw away The service here is super quick and friendly. from the Balkan Lakantasi, you’ll see a line of The cağ kebab is the main item on the menu. The people queueing up for supposedly the best doner meat paired with buffalo yoghurt and slightly kebab in Istanbul. Have a go! spicy roasted pepper dip is a match made in heaven. Address: Sinanpaşa Mahallesi, Mumcu Bakkal Sk. Also, try their lentil soup, it’s very tasty and a No:10, 34353 Beşiktaş/İstanbul great warmer if you chose to have your Istanbul city break in colder months. Karaköy Güllüoğlu – it’s the Turkish baklava institution. Always busy, the place serves some of We had lunch twice here and spent from 40TL- the nicest flaky baklava we’ve tasted in the city. 65TL for two.

16 Have a look at the menu and head for the Two cups of Turkish coffee cost us 13TL. counter. The Fıstıklı Havuç Dilimi Baklava (Palace Baklava with Pistachio) seems to be very popular Address: Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi, Olivia Geçidi amongst the locals if you can’t decide. 1/A, 34430 Beyoğlu/İstanbul If you visit Topkapi Palace, do make your way We went for the Karışık Baklava, the mixed down to the terrace for tea and cake. Turkish platter, as we couldn’t decide what to try. cakes are as light as clouds and very tasty. Together with the tea, it cost us 24TL. We had the Trilece (three milks) cake and it was divine, something the sultan would have had for Address: Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı No: 3-4 sure! Karaköy, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul Not the cheapest place, but with the beautiful Mandabatmaz. As for Turkish coffee, I’ve tried view included in the price, it was a real treat. many places. 2 teas and a cake to share – 36TL. Eventually, we ventured into an alleyway just off the Istiklal street and made ourselves comfortable on tiny chairs outside Mandabatmaz.

Thick and chocolatey, the brew was just as delicious as I expected it to be.

17 GETTING IN AND AROUND ISTANBUL

What makes Istanbul city break great, on top all the things we mentioned earlier, is also the ease of getting around. We found the city pretty walkable.

Metro and are also great for getting to places of interest in Istanbul. Both are spacious, clean and well maintained.

You get to see a lot of Istanbul while getting from place to place on a tram. Getting to the City from the Airport You can purchase the top up card for 6TL at the vending machines placed at the stations or Most likely, you will be flying to Istanbul (Atatürk) newspaper stands. Airport. From here you have 3 main options: If you don’t have the exact amount, the machine Get a taxi. Depending on your destination, a taxi will not give you your change. Instead it will add will set you back 45TL and up. the remaining amount as travel credit to your Metro/tramway. We ditched the taxi option and card. took the metro from the airport. Even though it Buses can get pretty crowded, but are another took us around 1 hour, the ride was enjoyable and good way of getting around Istanbul. easy. The stops are announced on the screen making it To get to the central (downtown) area or Galata, easy to know when to get off. take the M1a () going to Yenikapı. Although sometimes there can be a slight delay so At Zeytinburnu change to the metro to tram be vigilant, we missed the Miniatürk stop. going to Kabataş (). This route goes right through the old town area. Bus fare is 2.50TL per journey.

There’s a downloadable map here. Taxis are abundant in Istanbul and not too expensive at 2.50TL per km with the meter Havataş shuttle bus. This is a good option if you starting at 4TL. are on a budget. The shuttle buses can be found outside the airport and cost 11TL per journey. As in most places, avoid drivers without a meter and always have smaller change. But beware that the drop off point is Taksim area (The Point Hotel) so it might not be that Otherwise you’ll have to look for a place to convenient if you are staying in the old town. change your notes to pay for your journey.

The best thing to do is to buy which you can use on metro, trams and buses.

19 WHERE TO SLEEP IN ISTANBUL

If you want to be close to the local life and buzz of Istanbul, try Airbnb accommodation in Beyoğlu and Taksim.

We stayed in an apartment block in Akyol Sokak. While we found our particular street way too noisy for our liking, we were only 5 minutes from Taksim square, cosy cafes and restaurants.

If you are planning to have a quick Istanbul city break and prefer staying in the old town, have a look at the Empress Zoe Hotel.

This beautifully decorated Turkish townhouse is conveniently located near the major interest points of Istanbul.

For a luxury stay in Istanbul, check out the Istanbul Place Apartments.

This stylish place offers 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments as well as a loft studio with panoramic views of historic Istanbul.

20 Is it Safe in Istanbul? Best Time to Visit Istanbul

A lot of people asked us this question. Personally We visited in November and thought it was a to us, Istanbul didn’t seem any less safe than any great time to visit. other country we’ve visited. Cheaper accommodation and less crowded There was a noticeable armoured police presence touristy areas definitely added to the whole around the main attractions but nothing we experience. The queues to the main attractions haven’t seen elsewhere. were minimal.

Bad and unfortunate things can happen Weather wise it was slightly chilly, but sunny. anywhere and the best you can do is be cautious Mind you we flew to Istanbul from Malta. and sensible. If you are planning your Istanbul city break from If you feel uncomfortable in a place or situation, northern Europe, November should feel pretty walk away. mild to you at 14C to 20C in the daytime.

Istanbul is easily one of our favourite cities in the world and we will no doubt return for another extended Istanbul city break soon.

21 ABOUT US We are Charlie and Kristina and we love travel so much we started MapTrotting to inspire others to travel more.

After some short trips to Hawaii and Cuba we were hooked and set off in early 2016 to create a travel focused lifestyle.

We are currently based on the sunny island of Malta.

Our lives are focused on making the most of the precious time we have through great experiences and quality adventures.

MapTrotting is about exploring the world slowly and finding real value in travel.

We share our knowledge and experience with our readers so they can learn from our highs and lows on the road.

Our aim is to inspire people to travel and experience more of the world through our blog.

Our target audience is people like us, 'flashpacker' couples who seek great value for their time and money when they travel.

We also collaborate with leading travel blogs such as Goats on the Road, Travioor, The Planet D, Nomadasaurus and SEA Backpacker Magazine to help spread travel love to an even wider audience. 22 PHOTOGRAPHY TRAVEL RESOURCES

All the photos in this eBook are taken by us with We wanted to share some of the travel resources these two cameras: we use to help us travel, blog and make videos.

Canon EOS 1100D. Combined with the 50mm lens, We hope you’ll find them useful, just follow the link this camera takes amazingly detailed close up for more information. shots for our blog. It’s very reliable, ideal for anyone starting out. You can purchase it here or As we quickly found out, a little (and we mean via our resource page. little) advance travel planning can go a long way.

Sony RX100 III. Now our main travel camera. It takes the pressure off and usually means less Very powerful, yet nice and discreet when we poor snap decisions and frustrations. Follow the want to grab a shot but not the attention. The link to see the resources and useful apps. prefect compact. Check it out here or on our resources page.

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