BY Jim clarke

herry is a case study in premiumization. Volume has bartenders are getting creative about taking apart guest’s mis- been declining (gently), but premium Sherry has nev- conceptions about Sherry, especially the assumption that it’s er been so diverse and vibrant. In 2015, imports of sweet – most premium sherry is quite dry. Sgrandma’s sugary tipple, Cream Sherry, were down If ever a category can benefit from back-to-basics presentation, 45% compared to 2006, but Amontillado, a more premium, dry it is Sherry. The distinct styles—from fresh, dry, nutty/salty fino style, rose 334% over the same time. up through richer Olorosos and the lusciously sweet “PX”—are Sherry has decided to be a wine again, rather than as a derived from production techniques that scream authenticity, an brand-driven, back-bar commodity. Importers are finding suc- they are ready to reward drinkers with food-friendly, unique flavor cess with smaller bodegas, and enthusiastic sommeliers and profiles. A little education goes an especially long way.

Where is it made? how is it made/what is it made from? The southern tip of Spain: Jerez de la Fron- tera, El Puerta de Santa Maria, and Sanlúcar Grapes: aromas, and consumes glycerol, making de Barrameda. Most of the best vineyards Palomino primarily, but also the wine taste drier, less rounded, and are in albariza, a chalky, white soil that holds Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez, lighter-bodied. water well despite the hot climate. especially for sweet wines. Fortification: Flor: Sherries are fortified based on type. For lighter, After fermentation, when wine is barreled, paler wines that are to become Finos or These space left at the top allows an oxygen- Manzanillas, neutral grape spirit is added to 3 towns are proof layer of yeast called “flor” to often referred to bring the alcohol up to around 15% and the as the Sherry Sanlúcar de Barrameda develop spontaneously on the surface. wines continue to develop under the flor. Triangle. Jerez de la Frontera Flor protects the wine fromoxidation, Fuller, rounder wines destined to become contributes nutty (aldehydic) and saline Olorosos are fortified up to around 17%; the El Puerta de Santa Maria higher alcohol prevents the growth of flor and enables slow oxidation in the barrel. ANDALUCIA Featured Brand The Magic of the Solera williams & humbert Most Sherry is non-vintage, and the “solera” system ensures a gradual blending of old and younger wine. ¡ A solera consists of three or four “criaderas” of barrels, the top row younger holding the youngest wines and the bottom the oldest. ¡ When Sherry is to be bottled, the cellarmaster draws the wine from the bottom criadera, then tops those barrels off with wine aging in the second, then tops those off with the criadera above that, and so forth; New wine is only added at the top. ¡ A maximum of ¼ of the final criadera can be drawn out older at one time. all in the style Sherry, by nature, represents a spectrum of types of sherry styles. With an eye on the consumer, it is Types of Sherry are all about style. Dry sherry can be divided into biologically-aged wines (Fino, important to be able to communicate levels of sweetness and usage opportunities. Manzanilla), which develop in barrel under flor; oxidatively-aged wines (Oloroso), whose exposure Bodega Williams & Humbert—founded to oxygen, without the protective layer of flor, results in richer, rounder, deeper flavors; and interme- in 1877 and best-known for Dry Sack—is an diate styles that combine both types of aging (Amontillado, Palo Cortado). excellent example of a supplier with a full sty- listic portfolio. The bodega has three separate Steps FIno & Manzanilla Amontillado Oloroso Palo Cortado product lines, defined by age: ¡ Heritage Series (base level) To 15-15.5%, To 17-18%, ¡ Don Zoilo Collection (12 years in solera) To 15-15.5% To 15-15.5% Fortification which still allows which prevents ¡ Rare Aged (20 and 30 year old expressions) initially initially Flor to develop. flor development Each tier offers expressions that range from dry to sweet.

YES. Forms YES. Ages and exists YES, for 1-2 Heritage series Flor under flor for No throughout the years Here is a look at the Sherry spectrum—in style 3-8 years aging process descriptors and usage—as represented by the Williams & Humbert’s Heritage Series.

YES. Later YES. Later Pando Fino Sherry fortified to 17- fortified to 17- Oxidative Age of Solera: 5 years NO 18%, killing the 18%, killing the YES agent flor, then sees flor, then sees ABV: 15% additional aging additional aging Appearance: Pale Style: Very dry (< 1 gram sugar per liter) The perfect chilled aperitif; pair with cheese, nuts, ham, dried fruits, seafood. COLOr Dry Sack Medium Sherry Age of Solera: 6 years ABV: 19.5% Appearance: Amber ¡ Almond, ¡ Darker in ¡ Not very ¡ A rich, darker Style: Stronger and slightly saline, and color and common, style, sweet; 28 gr./l apple notes medium- this type was ¡ Rounded Enjoy neat, on the rocks, in contempo- from the flor. bodied, originally the texture is due to rary cocktails; Can also pair with pasta fate of Finos ¡ Light and very ¡ Nut, caramel a glycerine com- or cheeses wherein the flor dry; a classic and umami ponent other did not develop aperitif. notes. Sherries lack, Canasta Cream Sherry adequately, style but still dry. Age of Solera: 6 years ¡ Manzanil- ¡ As of 2012 points ¡ Now a las are from Amontillados ¡ Cream Sher- ABV: 19.5% Palo Cortado Sanlúcar de Bar- are always dry, ries are made by Appearance: Mahogany cultivated style. rameda where the sweetened sweetening Olo- Style: Velvety, raisiny, sweet; 132 gr./l Often descrived greater humidity equivalent roso with must as Amontillado Before or after dinner, neat, on the means more flor now labeled from sun-dried on the nose, rocks, in cocktails; can also pair with and a lighter- as “Medium grapes, usually Oloroso on the rich snacks, dried fruit, vanilla ice bodied wine Sherry.” Moscatel or Pe- palate. cream, desserts. dro Ximénez. Serving Sherry: Cocktail opportunities It is difficult to define Sherry as a cocktail ingredient because of its natural variability in sweet- ¾ Traditionally served in smaller, 2 oz. ness, nuttiness, saltiness, viscosity…. One notable attribute, however, is Sherry’s relative ratio “copitas” but today even the Sherry of flavor intensity to alcohol, which makes it a favorite especially when mixologists aim for Consejo Regulador recommends regu- lower-octane cocktails. Here are a few examples where Sherry is in the drink’s driver’s seat. lar white wine glasses

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¾ Sherry should be stored and served chilled at 45-60°, cooler for the lighter The Cobbler is built on dry The Up-To-Date is also a The Bamboo and the styles and warmer for the richer. Sherry, a bit of sugar and a classic: 1.5 oz rye, 1.5 oz Adonis are variations on ¾ Sherry does not improve slice or two of orange. Ob- dry Sherry, a teaspoon of each other. The former with age once bottled. viously a low alcohol rela- Grand Marnier, and two combines 1.5 oz Fino, 1.5 ¾ Once opened, finos and tive of the Old Fashioned. dashes Angostura bitters. oz dry French vermouth and manzanillas can last up The orange and sugar Stir with ice and strain into orange bitters. The latter to a week, and other are muddled; then add a martini glass. has 1.5 oz Oloroso, 1.5 oz styles up to two months. the Sherry and serve over sweet Italian vermouth and ¾ Unlike other wines, Sherry should be crushed ice in a highball Angostura bitters. Both are stored standing up to minimize the glass, garnished with mint stirred with ice, strained amount of wine that has contact with air. and berries. into a martini glass, and garnished with lemon peel.

Other Terms: Selling Points: En Rama: Whiskey lovers, take note Unfiltered or only lightly filtered Amontillado and Olorosos offer familiar aromas to brown-liquor fans. Many whiskeys at bottling. are using sherry casks for aging, creating an entry point for conversation. VOS: Cocktails beckon “Very Old Sherry;” barrels in the solera Sherry works in many cocktails as a secondary ingredient in lieu of vermouth or must have an average of 20 years or other aromatized wines. Finos and Manzanillas can add acidity and intensity; more, and only 1/20th can be drawn off Amontillados and especially Olorosos are valuable for a more rounded, weighty each year for bottling, to ensure a greater mouthfeel. Sherry also makes a great base for low-alcohol cocktails, particularly in influence of aged wine. programs where spirits aren’t on offer. VORS: classic as Aperitifs “Very Old Rare Sherry;” the solera must Especially Finos and Manzanillas are great while waiting for a table or looking over the menu have an average age of 30 years or more, and only 1/30th can be drawn off each year Food friendly for bottling. Finos and Manzanillas are also well-suited to nuts, cured meats, and even fish—much like any other crisp white wine. Amontillados and Olorosos can stand up to richer dishes, even meats; soups are a classic pairing owing to the textural contrast.

Sherry Fun Facts

The first use of the term “Sherry wine” was Christopher Columbus brought Sherry In the 2017 Edition of his Pocket in the 15th century, soon after the Moorish when he set out from Spain to discover Wine Book, Hugh Johnson town of Sherish was conquered by King the New World; and the Portuguese calls Manzanilla “the world’s Alfonso X and renamed Xérés (later Jerez). explorer Magellan spent more on Sherry best-value dry white wine; sip it than on weapons when he prepared to with almost any food, especially sail around the world in 1519. crustaceans.” Featured Brand Sherry Resources sherry by the numbers don zoilo

Recent sales trends support the premi- Vinos de Jerez umization of the Sherry cagtegory overall. (sherry.wine), the official international DECISIONS, DECISIONS… While volume overall has slipped, there has A famous saying holds that “great wine is Sherry website, features info on events, been improved performance of higher- made in the vineyard.” Great Sherry, on the types of Sherry, etc., plus an extensive quality, premium Sherries. other hand, is definitely shaped in the cellar. pairing chart and serving suggestions. (Indeed, its primary grape, Palomino, is From 2011 to 2015… remarkable for its neutrality!) Andalucia.com At Williams & Humbert, the Don Zoilo offers not only a detailed history of Sherry Collection (named in honor of the brother of and specific properties, but also plenty of Jose Medina, owner of the firm, who created background on Andalusian gastronomy Sales retail this range) comprises Sherries, dry to sweet, and culture. which benefit from specific decisions resulting in Volume sales distinctive qualities.

Talia Baiocchi’s book Sherry fell value fell has been lauded for bringing To flor, or not to flor? Manzanilla – After fermentation, paler, “the wine world’s best kept -7.1% <4% lighter wines are selected to age under flor, secret” to a new generation; the oxygen-proof layer of yeast that de- she gives readers of all levels velops on the surface; these are fortified a comprehensive buying guide to 15% and become Fino or, in this case and an array of contemporary because of the location in Sanlucar de cocktail recipes. Barrameda, Manzanilla. Aged at least 5 Source: 2016 IWSR US years, the result is dry and fresh yet full- Beverage Alcohol Review flavored, with complex yeasty aromas and lipsmacking acidity.

Meet the two-timer Sherry Quotes Amontillado undergoes a unique dual aging: first under the veil of flor for 8 years, then it joins Sherry, Niles? the solera’s third criadera and is If penicillin can exposed to oxidation for 4 more cure those that are – Frasier Crane years. This fusion of processes renders Don Zoilo Amontillado ill, Spanish Sherry dry and reminiscent of a Fino but can bring the dead extraordinarily complex.

back to life. We are away Getting richer now – Alexander Fleming to the region of your Oloroso – After fermentation, nutty, full-flavored fuller-bodied barrels are fortified to at Amontillado sherry, least 17%, with the higher alcohol content preventing the growth of Sherry, the the golden juice I flor and resulting in richer Oloroso have so often held Sherries. In the case of Don Zoilo civilized drink. Oloroso, the character is further up to the light. enhanced by its grapes being from – W. Somerset Maugham – Charles Dickens Jerez Superior and the ABV being boosted to 19%.

Sweet grand finale Pedro Ximénez – The decision-making for this lus- cious, rich Sherry begins with Legally, only Sherries from Jerez are permitted the grape variety. The naturally to be labeled “Sherry.” Yes, some is produced sweet “PX” grapes for Don Zoilo in the U.S., but it’s required by law to bear a Download Now at come from Jerez Superior; 12 label identifying it as BeverageMedia.com years in the solera bring depth “California sherry” or 101 Tutorials on key categories to and concentration to the wine’s improve your Wine & Spirits Education fig-raisin character. “American Sherry.”