On Your Way to the Great Beauty Itineraries to Optimise Your Stay in Florence

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

ALL YOU CAN DO IN JULY Top events and places to be in Florence and its surroundings ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

On your way to the Great Beauty Itineraries to optimise your stay in Florence

Florence July 2019

V A SI E S T E S E 14 INSIDER TIPS 32 DINING CASTELLO SESTO the guide apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

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VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano magical world VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

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D PIAZZA E Aeroporto one-star restaurant T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C La Leggenda dei Frati PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI is unveiled to lovers VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI ph. alessandrobencini.com ph.

LLO STECCUTO DE IA FAENTINA V VIA DE T of creative cuisine. TODA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIA PANCIATICHI VIALE ASTRONAUTI GIFT GUIDE MAIANO

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G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L IA V. F. BARACCA IAZZUOLA N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I P UCCI ME MUGNONE of Florence comes to life N I IC VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace O R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP ENTINA VIA DELAL VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze A O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria OGNESE PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I I A F VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA V

L V AI D IN O V O L I with music and dance. VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

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Spotlight on the eagerly BOCCAC V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE NNI V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I A DI MONTUGHI LA

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA GIOV VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IA IAZZUO TERZOLLE awaited gala evening V VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE ENTERTAINMENT Convento Frati Cappuccini D PIAZZA V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA DEL TERZOLLE IA 38 P.TTA V. C SA VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI I N Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Roberto BolleAS and Friends O D A P IS T O IA Chiesa San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I V

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VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA GUGLIELMO M on SaturdayA 13 July. VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

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VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA PALA LL I VIA FAENTINA I NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C O VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

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V BB L Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI F. . G A I N N I V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI & MUSEUMS CA Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI V I A G . B A R B E R A JULY 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI One of the most T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V ALL YOU CAN DO A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M significant G locationsLARGO for Madre della IN JULY ILANE U A S T I Divina Provvidenza ANTON CESARE Orti del Parnaso CO Top events and V IA M A R A G L IA N O SI CANTÙ places to be in Florence 5 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 20 TOP BRANDS IA and its surroundings V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO V

E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E ITALIAN-STYLE LUDOVICOan ANTONIO itinerary to discover V O BO VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I GIFT GUIDE MURATORI A S Preziosissimo Our pick of the best LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting Sangue The best fashion designers I A MUGNONE seasonal trends U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. the Medici dinasty,. ABBA the VIALE DEI CADORNA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I from its main landmark for your high-end shopping. C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI Museum of the MediciDELLA VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N L V IA L E D E I M IL L E A V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G On attractions. VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U your way SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T Chapel, is extending MUGNONE N FERRARIS O VIA DEI CA VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H to the Great Beauty V. G. B. AMICI I I Sacro Cuore M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO Itineraries to optimise C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E WELCOME TO 27 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI your stay in Florence V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L its opening hours AL N D VIA G. BAND

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T E DI SAN EOL NA E V I O A R N O HOT DATES FORTE DEI MARMIAR MARTIRI LEOPOLDO N 8 P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S to the public. NOBILI I A DELLE VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I This month’s round-up of art Discover the seaside resort V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA Michelangelo’s David exhibitions, traditional events In the province of Lucca. 44 ESSENTIALS AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I E (1501-1504) at the V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Information and tips L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI and music. O LE VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R Franchi MONTIGNANO Accademia Gallery. RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G Photo: Shutterstock.com C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero to experience the I O DI BESLAN V AI M INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto FASHION OUTLETS B B AI VIA D 28 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI VIA MASSA A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V best that Florence O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Several of the best shopping di Valfonda N N E L L I P GIFT GUIDE ONTANELLI LEOPOLDA 13 A D N O F L A V Teatro dell’Opera EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA RA F VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI hasFirenze Fiera toSan Giulianooffer VIA GINO CAPP P O Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO Take advantage of your stay destinations not far L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A in Florence to enjoy a pick A R N O from Florence, offering S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U of the best high-quality items. discounts year-round.V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo ateri VI VI INI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO

Santa Maria Novella I G C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria A O R I E L I M VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI VEL E’ VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS S . L U C I A Teatro D Università V I A IN NANDO MART VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C L F MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze AGR DPO ' I PIAZZA V. O Pucci Lucia LI VI A N I VIA GIOVANNI BOV Z TONIO SCIALOJA O IT’S FLORENCE TIME! TOP HOTEL VIA DELL'AL VIA PALESTRO VIA MARSALA 14 36 EN sul Prato P. BATONI R AN VI OLI A DELL’A RTELLI Chiesa E MAZZ www.magzter.com A A Polimoda I M Santa Maria

V IA D E L L A S VIA DEL GIGLIO ’ O MENOTTI Parrocchiale T VIA AN LO LL CAS VI PIAZZA N Maddalena dei Pazzi V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI O ZA Teatro RI IR Sacro Cuore VIA FERDI STA VICO VIA MONTEBELLO RO SEPP PIAZZA CO V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I N ETTI RGO S VIA DENiccolini TI E’ VIA TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA O GIU A C VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O D B VIA DEI SER RINI AT A I

NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O Do you have just one day, or VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI RESTAURANTS NOVELLA L VI VIA BRONZINO V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR D Santommaso T LU CI A PI VIA BRONZINO DE V. A VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei A V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A maybe 36 or 48 hours to see, Where® highlights some di San LE IL OBERDAN issuu.com/where-italia VIA I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele D VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA OMA V P O CH AS VIA TITO SPERI Paolino EL A C V.CANONICA e Gaetano V ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO DE E R T

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N VIA MAZZETTA I T O www.angelacaputi.com R N GI L L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O I O CASELLINA V. DEI PR V. MARSI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO E VIA VILLANI Ex monastero IE TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) E www.wheretraveler.com LI O R 3 VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA TI PIAZZA LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO C P U C PIAZZA O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO D MOZZI San Felice E

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 38 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Top in town 46-47 PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 3 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who Andrea Jarach more than any other, represents Italy throughout [email protected]) the world. Andrea Jarach EDITORIAL Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome MANAGING DIRECTOR Where® will host a series of special events. The full program Daniele Misrachi of Italian exhibitions and events honouring ([email protected]) Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person ([email protected])

considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. CONTRIBUTORS While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, and Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli 6 2 political facets of European life from the fifteenth century. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY medicine and art. City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. MARKETING & ADVERTISING If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect ([email protected])

a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting! ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto Discover in Anchiano, just 3 km ([email protected]) from Vinci, the house where the Great Genius was born PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,

on 15 April 1452. SALES SUPPORT MANAGER SHUTTERSTOCK Below, Leonardo’s birthplace Paola Grilli is surrounded by a landscape ([email protected]) almost untouched by time.

www.museoleonardiano.it HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER PHOTOS © Maria Granata ([email protected]) DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the 1 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences is a symbol known all over the world. most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill. MVP EXECUTIVE PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari 4 in the world. 6 MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

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First of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici the Etruscans. The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, without exposing the sovereign to any danger. which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city. who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists.

profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood SHUTTERSTOCK to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and The accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge are also swarming porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, PHOTO © single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away a picturesque backroom protruding over the river. from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll.

6 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

INSTALLATION

FESTIVE, COLOURFUL AND UNCONVENTIONAL JULY 16 14 The austere courtyard of Palazzo MAY JULY Strozzi is transformed into a large space for participation and involvement. The Rede Social installation, a colourful hammock measuring over 10 metres with 12 connected positions, invites the public to climb up and experience the space and the architecture of the building from an unusual position, abandoning, albeit briefly, social roles and conventions. The work has been conceived and designed specially for the courtyard of the Florentine museum – a setting contained within the heart of the Palazzo but at the same Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, time open to the city – by the Brazilian Opavivará! collective. art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s BEYOND PERFORMANCE - REDE SOCIAL (SOCIAL NETWORK) unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi Open daily 10am-8pm; Thursdays 10am-11pm www.palazzostrozzi.org

8 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

MAJOR EXHIBITION LAST DAYS FESTIVAL IN THE HEART EVENINGS OF MUSIC AND ART OF THE RENAISSANCE ◄ Appointment of excellence in the Florentine ► In the year of Leonardo, Palazzo summer, the MusArt Festival is based on an original 9 14 Strozzi chooses to celebrate his formula combining major concerts with visits of art 13 24 and culture. On the days of the events spectators in master, the artist who symbolised MARCH JULY JULY JULY the Renaissance in Florence: Andrea fact have free access to some of the most significant del Verrocchio. This major exhibition, with a special section at the art sites in the proximity of Piazza della Santissima National Museum of the Bargello, hosts more than 120 paintings, Annunziata, where the performances take place, and sculptures and drawings from the world’s most important of Piazza Brunelleschi. As with previous editions, there museums and collections. For the first time, it brings together will only be major names appearing on stage, from masterpieces by Verrocchio and significant works by the greatest Roberto Bolle to Danilo Rea, from Steve Hackett to artists of the second half of the 15th century associated with his Caetano Veloso. Programme available on the website. workshop, at the same time revealing the start of Leonardo da Musart Festival 2019 Vinci’s career and the artistic environment at the time of Piazza della Santissima Annunziata Lorenzo the Magnificent. www.musartfestival.it Verrocchio, the Master of Leonardo Palazzo Strozzi. Piazza Strozzi/Via Tornabuoni Museo del Bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4 JAZZ LANDSCAPE PAINTING www.palazzostrozzi.org , www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it BRAZILIAN POSTCARDS FROM ITALY SOUNDS AMID THE “BEL PAESE” Andrea del Verrocchio, Madonna col Bambino (1475 ca), Berlin, THE ANTIQUITIES ▼ The Horne Museum, a museum house Staatliche Museen, Gemäldegalerie ©Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, 29 ▼ The trumpet and the 6 30 where art masterpieces are presented Gemäldegalerie / Christoph Schmidt JULY bandoneon are apparently two APRIL JULY together with artefacts from everyday very dissimilar instruments, but life, conveys the atmosphere of a genuine if it is Paolo Fresu and Daniele Di Bonaventura Renaissance dwelling. Here, a small yet ECO FASHION playing them, then it is immediately top-level precious exhibition pays homage to Italy, jazz. With them is cellist Jaques Morelenbaum, the “Bel Paese”, which with its charming a “must see” of Brazilian contemporary music, settings has inspired numerous artists over FASHION HAS filtered here through Fresu’s Mediterranean the centuries: sketches and watercolours soul. The concert takes place in the unique of views, capricci and landscapes, created THE PLANET CLOSE and charming setting of the Roman Theatre between the 16th and 19th centuries, TO ITS HEART in Fiesole, in the green and scenographic tell of trips and stays by those who have ◄ Thanks to a new generation Archaeological Park. chosen Italy as their second home. of designers and to the interest Paolo Fresu & Daniele Di Bonaventura of important brands, the fashion industry Souvenir d’Italie. with Jaques Morelenbaum is also setting out on the path Drawings and watercolours 29 July, 9.15pm of sustainability by adopting new from the Horne Collection Teatro Romano. Via Portigiani, 3 – Fiesole (Florence) ecological, high-performance Museo Horne. Via dei Benci, 6 www.estatefiesolana.it materials and innovative www.museohorne.it production processes. The Salvatore Ferragamo Museum offers stimuli for artists, fashion designers and fabric and yarn manufacturing companies capable of safeguarding our ecosystem. Above: Francesco Guardi, The exhibition project continues Il Ponte dei Sospiri, 1780 ca. around other themes in the Sala delle Udienze in Palazzo Vecchio Right: John Thomas Serres and at the Museo Novecento. Veduta dell’Arno a Firenze 12 8 Sustainable Thinking verso Ponte alla Carraia, 1790. APRIL MARCH Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Palazzo 2019 2020 Spini Feroni. Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r www.ferragamo.com/museo

10 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE ◄ SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME English narrow brim straw hat, 6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY for him and for her, perfect to complete your summer outfit. It CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT is available at Société Anonyme, A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near an independent shop in the when Three Wise Men brought gifts flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai the church of Orsanmichele, in which the of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the Sant’Ambrogio district inspired by Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. London. www.societeanonyme.it THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST Take advantage of a stroll PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO through Florence to treat A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a yourself to a jewellery item, commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine an accessory, or some other Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa ► SALVATORE FERRAGAMO the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to alluring detail of style. Retro-inspired sporty chic The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, Where® brings you a pick sneakers, with suede uppers, known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. of the best seasonal trends elastic laces and ultra-light rubber soles with embossed and guarantees that you mini Gancini hooks. 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER The reflective Gancini

ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ELENA.KATKOVA won’t leave empty-handed! LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO on the heel bring out the A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the city-style mood of the design. PHOTO © burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. www.ferragamo.com CAVALCATA DEI MAGI Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial Concomitant entertainment events are figure in the city’s history. A wreath of also held to mark the occasion. flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. Celebration of the last heir of the Medici ◄ GUCCI dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE ▲ APROSIO The first women’s perfume to come including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine In the beautiful Via della Spada, designer about from the creative vision Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL Ornella Aprosio manufactures jewellery of Alessandro Michele, ‘Gucci Bloom’ CALCIO STORICO is all due to her. To mark the occasion, and accessories using glass and crystal captures the intoxicating aroma some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza beads, strictly hand-made and limited of a garden in bloom: tuberose, free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of series, as with these modular bracelets. jasmine and the rare Indian flower St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of www.aprosio.it Rangoon Creeper give rise to a rich the city. Highly competitive, it combines floral fragrance. www.gucci.com 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as BACCO ARTIGIANO the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER ► RICHARD GINORI since before the advent of the Gregorian Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni The ‘Totem’ pure porcelain Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the collection is reminiscent costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles of an eighteenth-century in the crypt. According to the legend it decorative tradition for was thanks to the miraculous intercession accessories from noble EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines dwellings, with reproductions succeeded in repelling the siege of the of symbolic animals. SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked www.richardginori1735.com A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. tradition that dates back to the time of the Crusades. A procession with percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER ◄ IL BISONTE historical costumes, city officials Curly cowhide women’s bucket handbag and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI by historic Florentine leather goods brand accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the Il Bisonte, combining craftsmanship and tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” manufacturing quality. Available in three addresses the civil and religious authorities to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is colours: caramel, natural and black. CALCIO STORICO to wish them good luck during the festivities. set alight. www.ilbisonte.com

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Do you have just one day, or maybe 36 or 48 hours to see Florence? Even if a week would probably not be enough to see all the beauties of the Tuscan capital, we have prepared three different itineraries for you with the places not to be missed and plenty of little gems to optimise your time available. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

o you have just a few hours to visit Florence? Often you may find yourself passing through the Tuscan capital,

maybe heading for other destinations, on a work trip or MARAZE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM for a last-minute weekend. You’re lucky because the city is not huge, the main attractions are all located close to

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and Baptistery of St. John PHOTO © one another and you can visit most of the centre on Dfoot. Here are some ideas so you don’t miss out on the main museums, monuments and culinary specialities, in three personalised itineraries depending on the time you have available.

ONE DAY IN FLORENCE

It must be said, twelve hours are not a long time to visit all the wonders of Florence, but with our suggestions and lots of good will, you should succeed in fitting everything in. An ideal itinerary starts from your hotel, supposing that you can set off early in the morning after breakfast, rested and raring to go. As a starting point we must of course indicate Piazza Duomo, a series of Renaissance architectural works that is unique in the world, which we recommend you admire from outside. The cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, with Brunelleschi’s dome, is one of the greatest and most beautiful cathedrals in Europe. Beside the façade, Giotto’s bell tower, another S4SVISUALS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM symbol of the city, 84 metres high and entirely covered in multi- Galleria degli Uffizi

coloured marbles, is decorated with numerous sculptures and PHOTO © tiles. Opposite the Cathedral is the ancient Baptistery of St. John, dedicated to the patron saint of the city, which was the investiture site but you can head outside the entrance, towards the Loggia dei Lanzi, of knights and poets. Three bronze doors tell the story of humanity and “satisfy yourself” by admiring some statues from the Roman Age and the redemption almost like a huge illustrated Bible. One of them, and some 16th-century masterpieces such as Perseus by Benvenuto known as the Door of Paradise, in gilded bronze, is the masterpiece Cellini, the Rape of the Sabine Women and Hercules and the Centaur of goldsmith and sculptor Lorenzo Ghiberti. By this point the whole Nessus by Giambologna. morning will have flown by. For lunch you have no time to sit and We now advise you to continue on foot towards the Ponte Vecchio, eat, but you’re lucky, because a few yards from here is All’Antico another symbol of the city, which crosses the Arno and connects the Vinaio, where you can order a delicious schiacciata, filled with cold two banks, and which for more than 500 years has hosted goldsmiths’ cuts and other Tuscan products, and eat it as you walk along (www. shops and workshops. After crossing the bridge - and maybe stopping allanticovinaio.com). Returning to Piazza Duomo, go along the to buy one of the hand-crafted creations by the master goldsmiths - bustling Via dei Calzaiuoli to emerge in Piazza della Signoria, which was you find yourself in the part of the city that Florentines call Oltrarno the historical and political heart of Florence. Here stands the majestic (literally beyond the River Arno), the most genuine and authentic part. Palazzo Vecchio, a museum and the city hall of the Municipality of Go along Via dei Guicciardini and you will find yourself directly in Piazza Florence. You obviously won’t have time to visit it, but, by crossing the dei Pitti, opposite Palazzo Pitti. It houses numerous museums, which It’s threshold of the inner courtyard, you can have an idea of the majesty it would be impractical to visit in just a few hours, but if you wish to of the place. Connected to Palazzo Vecchio is the immense building find some shelter from the summer heat, you can allow yourself half SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the Uffizi, which hosts one of the most important museums in the an hour in the Boboli Gardens, the park of the Palazzo, which you can world, with works by Cimabue, Giotto, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci and enter with a separate ticket (www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti). If you prefer Michelangelo, to mention just a few. A visit would take quite a lot time, shopping, you’re in the right place, because in this part of the city you Florence Time! PHOTOS © 14 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

will find hundreds of genuine artisan shops have to climb 463 steps on foot as there is no by the Rinascente, in Piazza della Repubblica, of Florentine where you can buy the perfect souvenir. At lift, so this visit is not recommended for those a luxury concept store where you will find all architecture: the this point it should be almost time for an with heart problems, vertigo or claustrophobia the major fashion, beauty and design houses, exterior of the church aperitif: treat yourself to a spritz in one of the (www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it). At this both Italian and not, under the same roof is in Romanesque open-air bars of the nearby Piazza Santo point, since by now it is probably lunch time, (www.rinascente.it). style, dating back to the 11th century, decorated Spirito, the heart of the Florentine movida, you will be starting to feel hungry. You can Towards sunset, without straying too far with green and white marble forming where you can breathe the exciting and go along Via Ricasoli, pass Piazza San Lorenzo, from Piazza della Repubblica, treat yourself geometrical designs, while a 12th-century authentic atmosphere of the neighbourhood. dominated by the basilica of the same name, to an aperitif on the terrace of the Hotel mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. Unfortunately your brief yet intense day in and continue along Via del Canto de’ Nelli. You Continental, from where you can enjoy a From the square of the church you can enjoy Florence ends here, so, with your eyes filled find yourself facing the magnificent example breathtaking panoramic view of the city an incomparable view of Florence (www. with wonder, you can head towards your next of iron and glass architecture that contains (remember, however, that if you are not guests sanminiatoalmonte.it). If you have a bit more destination. the Mercato Centrale, a real institution for at the hotel, then booking is compulsory) time at your disposal, we also recommend lovers of good food, where it is possible (www.lungarnocollection.com). Finally, for an extensive visit to Palazzo Vecchio: built ANNA PAKUTINA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ANNA PAKUTINA 36 HOURS IN FLORENCE to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, dinner, what could be better than a typical between the end of the 13th and the beginning of the 14th century to contain the Chianina burgers, sushi, fresh pasta, dishes Florentine trattoria? Cammillo is a historic Palazzo Vecchio, inner courtyard city’s supreme body of government, over time So you have almost two days and one night to from the Tuscan tradition, meat, pizza, artisan restaurant not far from the Ponte Vecchio that PHOTO © visit Florence. That isn’t very much, but you can ice-cream, all under the same roof (www. offers practically all the main recipes of the it has been the object of numerous expansion optimise your time. Let us suppose that your mercatocentrale.it). A few yards from here, regional cuisine: from crostini coi fegatelli to projects. Today it is the seat the Mayor of entry gate to Florence is Santa Maria Novella returning to Via Ricasoli, you absolutely must ribollita, to tripe, to bistecca alla fiorentina. To course have bought your tickets in advance, quite a few things to do, to see and... to taste. Florence and various municipal offices and is Station (after all, even if you arrive by plane, visit the Accademia Gallery, which holds the finish the day in style, if you still have room for and which will take you a few hours to visit For example, you must not miss the Basilica also a museum where works by Michelangelo the shuttle from the airport drops you there). largest number of sculptures by Michelangelo a good artisan ice-cream, the Gelateria della (www.uffizifirenze.it). On leaving, you can of Santa Croce, located in the piazza of the Buonarroti, Donatello and Verrocchio are The first unmissable Florentine monument in the world, including the David, which was Passera awaits you not far from the restaurant; conclude your trip to the Tuscan capital same name, one of the greatest creations exhibited (www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. is right in front of you: the monumental moved there because its original position it is located in the delightful little square of in style by tasting one last typical dish: of Gothic in Italy. In addition to frescos and fi.it). If you are foodies and you like the complex of the Basilica of Santa Maria in Piazza della Signoria exposed it to too the same name (gelaterialapassera.wordpress. lampredotto, one of the four stomachs of a extraordinary works of art by Giotto or Cimabue, most authentic local markets, the district of Novella, a Renaissance masterpiece, with its much risk (www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. com). I would say that, after this tiring day filled cow. Not far from the Uffizi, at the stall L’Antico the basilica holds the tombs of illustrious Sant’Ambrogio is precisely what you are looking splendid stained-glass windows, crucifixes by beniculturali.it). For today you have seen with all kinds of thrills, now is the moment trippaio, they will prepare a traditional panino personalities, including, to mention just some, for. It is the beating heart of Florence, which Brunelleschi and Giotto and the monumental enough museums and you can therefore to return to your hotel and rest, also because with lampredotto for you, accompanied by a Ugo Foscolo, Michelangelo and Galileo (www. still maintains its characteristics of the past, cloisters of the adjacent convent. Obviously devote your time to some more frivolous tomorrow will be another long day. green garlic sauce and the indispensable glass santacroceopera.it). Remaining on the theme and its core is the market of Sant’Ambrogio, you will have purchased your ticket online activities, such as shopping. I recommend that Your second day in Florence must inevitably of Chianti (www.lanticotrippaio.com). Whether of religious architecture, another unmissable where you can buy fruit, vegetable, desserts, in advance, to have priority access and avoid you take a lovely walk of around one and a start with a pleasant breakfast. Even if you it is a farewell or an au revoir, there is no better monument is the Abbey of San Miniato al honey, cheeses, meat, bread, fish or, alternatively, the queues (www.smn.it). Then head towards half kilometres along the narrow streets of the have already eaten at your hotel, I recommend way of saying goodbye to Florence. Monte. It is on the hill above the left bank of the take a seat at a table and taste the local Piazza Duomo. The Complex of the Duomo historic centre of Florence, crossing the Ponte that you have a second break at the historic city, and can be reached by public transport, specialities cooked promptly for you (www. or, if you feel fit, from the neighbourhood of mercatosantambrogio.it). At the end of another of Florence includes the Cathedral of Santa Vecchio. Once you have reached the left bank Caffè Rivoire, in Piazza della Signoria, a FORTY-EIGHT HOURS Maria del Fiore with Brunelleschi’s Dome and of the Arno, you can do some shopping in former chocolate factory that has conserved San Niccolò, by walking along the pleasant intense day of urban exploration, you can chill th the excavations of Santa Reparata, Giotto’s the neighbourhood of Santo Spirito. Here, its 19th-century wooden furnishings, where IN FLORENCE Via di Monte alle Croci. While you climb up out in the 14 -century former convent of the Bell tower, the Baptistery of St. John and the with all the made-to-measure footwear, prints you can taste hand-made patisserie products, towards San Miniato you can also make a (very Oblate Sisters, a few yards from the Duomo, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. With just one and hand-crafted paper objects, straw hats obviously accompanied by the inevitable So you have around three days and two perfumed) stop at the Rose Garden, which now the Municipal Library, which contains a integrated ticket - bought in advance - you can and bags and leather accessories, you will be cappuccino (www.rivoire.it). Now it only nights to visit Florence. Cathedral Complex? contains around 400 varieties of this flower. delightful cafeteria, the main plus point of which access all the monuments. Brunelleschi’s dome spoiled for choice. If you prefer the designer remains for you to cross the piazza and enter Done! Uffizi? Done! The statue of David? Seen! Once you have reached the top of the hill, you is undoubtedly the view of Brunelleschi’s dome must be booked in advance, but beware: you labels, then remain on the right bank and drop the Uffizi Museum, for which you will of Lampredotto? Eaten! Well relax, there are still will find before you one of the masterpieces from an unusual perspective.

Accademia Gallery, David by Michelangelo Mercato Centrale Caffè Rivoire Abbey of San Miniato al Monte SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO © PHOTO ©

16 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 17 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & W The Guidelines M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat whether they are eligible for a tax refund. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 Aspesi e-mail: [email protected] The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran UnionPay is an international bankcard association Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, based in China and serves the world’s largest elegant details and natural materials. His current cardholder base. With more than 7 billion collections are still based on the original “no frills” Art for wearing cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s innovative, the mayor payment method of the outbound outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. elegant jewels are the perfect addition Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 to every woman’s wish list. Featuring a merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. blend of art and fashion, her creations payment, among which 9,000 merchants are T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- located in Florence. This allows hundred of 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, are characterized by a continuously thousands of affluent Chinese customers to 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 evolving creative process. Also known by shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also Brunello Cucinelli the nickname Giuggiù, the Florentine actively work with famous retail groups, such The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed designer has become a byword across as the Rinascente department stores, The up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian the globe. Her stunning creations Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in provide special discount or services for UnionPay Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder have been showcased at several of the cardholders. Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the most important museums worldwide. production of high-quality cashmere knitwear DINING The creative heart of Angela Caputi’s and today boasts top-level production with total Reservations for most restaurants are strongly bijoux is her workshop in the historic When porcelain becomes art look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is advised. In Italy, service is included in the Palazzetto Medici, just a few yards from seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its price meaning that although tipping is not The Flagship Store of the historic brand Richard Ginori welcomes its guests into the magical world of support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, Ponte Vecchio. Each and every one of compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as defining itself as “a humanistic company”. her sought-after designs is a genuine porcelain, the synthesis of the highest level of artisan mastery and contemporary design. By Giulia Minero a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. the word “coperto”, a small surcharge work of art for wearing handcrafted Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 corresponding to the cost of the service and in Italy. Angela Caputi celebrates oday, as yesterday, the mission of In Florence the design house’s creations find bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, Elena Mirò the arrival of summer 2019 with her semiformal clothing is usually considered de Florentine design house Richard Ginori their ideal location in the Flagship Store at Via An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy new ‘Oceano’ cruise line, a jewellery rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been T remains unchanged and coincides dei Rondinelli No. 17, in which, amid settings with are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that collection devoted to the marine world. with the art of transforming porcelain into atmospheres of yesteryear, guests can discover area is specifically offered. enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, Seahorses in the tones of white and pure beauty. Founded in 1735 in the town a selection of articles for the table and service, Set meals: prices are per person and usually refined and ever new style. From dresses to gold, as well as fishes with different of Doccia, a short distance from Florence, crystal glass, silverware and textiles, as well as refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to shapes but in the same refined colour € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure Manifattura Ginori has always been a point of vases and decorations for the home. Standing shades, alternating with geometrical €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. reference for the creation of objects that are out among these are the latest collections: elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; elements with colours recalling those able to synthesise the traditional working of Corona Monogram, with personalised features, SIGHTSEEING Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 of seawater, are the joyous protagonists The information provided on museums and 2657725. Map F3 porcelain and creativity. Over the years, Richard Totem, with naturally-inspired motifs and colours, of the design house’s new collection. monuments is verified as meticulously as Ginori collections have boasted collaborations and Il Viaggio di Nettuno, a tribute to Greek- Giovanni Raspini Necklaces, bracelets and earrings possible. However, data such as telephone In the beating heart of the fashion district, the with some of the most important names Roman mythology, created in collaboration numbers, opening hours, prices and the embellish every look, giving it a touch boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in in international design, first and foremost with the designer Luke Edward Hall. accessibility of sites are all subject to change, of creativity with a summer flavour. Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration Gio Ponti, but also Franca Helg, Sergio Asti, a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. work, museum loans or changes Achille Castiglioni, Gabriele Devecchi, Candido >> Via Dei Rondinelli, 17/R layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. of management. Ask your concierge. Fior, Gianfranco Frattini, Enzo Mari, Giovanni T: 055 210041. Map E2 out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often T: 055 292993. www.angelacaputi.com Gariboldi, Paola Navone and Aldo Rossi. www.richardginori1735.com animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited

18 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. For the S/S 2019 collection, the iconic, clean-cut 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. lines of GIORGIO ARMANI’s eyewear creations T: 055 285832. Map F3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 T: 055 2398688. Map E4 are enhanced with an innovative signature logo.

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 Map E3 STEFANO RICCI— BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. www.stefanoricci.com. A woven motif with wide double-face Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. nappa strips characterises this cross-body Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - bag by BOTTEGA VENETA. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Via dei Pescioni, 1. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun T: 055 210856. Map F3 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Sun 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 212995. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. CHANEL—www.chanel.com. 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. Map F3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open T: 055 290284. Map F3 Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- TOD’S—www.tods.com. Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat MISSONI—www.misson.com. 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- T: 055 219423. Map E3 F3 T: 055 215774. Map F4 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. T: 055 287931. Map E4 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. This ‘Ritratto’ pendant with red jasper by POMELLATO Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am- Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; combines opulence and originality, interpreting Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. a precious natural gem in homage to the Mother Nature. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- Map E3 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2382883. Map F4 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. T: 055 219179. Map E3 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Map E3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open T: 055 219041. Map E3 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ T: 055 288539. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. PRADA—www. prada.com. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. Map E4 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 T: 055 286035. 75927010. Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. T: 055 267471 Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; T: 055 9040100. Map E3 Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. From the summer 2019 beachwear collection for her by VALENTINO, this lycra swimsuit is eye-catching, T: 055 2741013. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— taking its ‘Mini Bandana’ motif from 1969-1970. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. These red chamois Superga platforms with cord sole are branded From the EMILIO PUCCI women’s collection presented in the spring-summer Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. PHILOSOPHY by Lorenzo Serafini, the diffusion line of Alberta Ferretti Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 2019 parades: sensual and elegant cut for the outfit, which combines well T: 055 292123. Map E4 renowned Italian fashion brand. with the iconic prints of the Florentine brand. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4

20 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING SHOPPING

edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- Marina Rinaldi and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon entirely made in Florence, is destined for private with refined materials such as Florentine leather, Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: crafted white bronze creations, always having a style Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also 055 210127. Map E2 that is midway between minimalism and classicism fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering devising new artisan articles with contemporary Cassetti 1926 as the common denominator. From the design to range of collections, featuring both contemporary (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. work is performed rigorously by hand following materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal Map L3 traditional procedures and using natural products com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Stefano Ricci 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6 Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio and accessories for a total look that exudes class Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, that develops innovative projects with its own artisan and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat with the purest male elegance as the watchword. JEWELLERY & WATCHES Map E4 or produced on request and based on customers’ collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente- These, in short, are the values of the company designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on Alessandro Dari Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 Luisaviaroma Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, antiques and on the reproduction of period items. Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early Map F3 which, now in its second generation, has become a Damiani www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a Société Anonyme successful international group. From clothing (jackets, Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works long goldsmithing tradition which it has always landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world An independent shop of North-European conception suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. and another used as an artistic workshop where interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 inspired by the underground atmospheres of the and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes Map D3 jewellery and decorative objects are developed, refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano including one-off items and themed collections. spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, Papiro (Il) Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths displaying the garments, they have been replaced Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde making production entirely hand-made by qualified Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www. in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon- the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www. of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition T: 055 244747. Map G6 Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San to a line of classic leather accessories. www. Map F3 Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm- and women’s collection that is only sold in-store Angela Caputi Giuggiù Dodo since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 6499151. Map G1 throughout the world. Sophisticated, original Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: creations made from unusual materials such as plastic Pitti Mosaici collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm 055 210856. Map E3 and resin, combined to create unique objects both in Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. used as accessories by famous television and film DEPARTMENT STORES tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items Rinascente creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. to provide coverings for walls, framed items and In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. Fani Gioielli furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates home and design items. For women, proposals of the Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and entire made-to-measure residential projects all over best Italian and international brands range from the 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon- luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat classic to the contemporary and for men from formal Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and 055 282127. Map E6 for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. products and the unveiling of innovations. www. Annamaria Cammilli Richard Ginori 1735 www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am- A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. it has been present with its creations in shop manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic 055 212075. Map E3 Map F3 windows and display cases all over the world for factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Massai Orafi accessories for the table and living room and works unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith FINE ART of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of using ancient working techniques. Italian style and Antico Setificio Fiorentino inspiration from nature and the floral world. www. Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of international trends. www.richardginori1735.com. The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues- the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 thanks also to its famous warping machine based T: 055 2608617. Map F4 and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to 210041. on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the the workshop is a unique experience: on the top Map E2 workshop has been producing some of the most Aprosio floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and Torchio (Il) years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient Valdichiana Outlet Village, a blend creates jewellery accessories and products for lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. of discounts and good music 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies between the provinces of T: 055 213861. Map B3 Arezzo and Siena, not far from fabulous locations such as Cortona and Montepulciano at the Galleria Romanelli intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and the The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down Siena-Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a precious sculpture artwork for six generations in ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ typical Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion and sport, in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much more besides. a meeting place for buyers and artists, where known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% throughout the sculptors and their students carry out their work daily Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart year, all amounting to a complete, high-quality commercial offer. For example, it is possible to surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. find Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, Us Polo and 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items many more besides. From Saturday 6 July Valdichiana Outlet Village is becoming even more 2396 0 47. Map C4 and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. convenient on the occasion of the start of the summer sales, which will guarantee further Leone Cei & Sons www.angelacaputi.com incredible discounts on outlet prices. For lovers of good music, Saturday 20 July is going to Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in be an unmissable date, thanks to the free concert by Arisa, one of Italy’s best known singers, dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 in the main square of the Village. For info on opening times, visit www.valdichianaoutlet.it armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 from a rare and abundant archive. The production,

22 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 The best shopping Tax Free Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts Refund Guide a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the and services, and is part of the European Union’s first floor is devoted to special sales and another is value added tax system. reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share VAT refund . This refund does not cover the services his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. • you are a non-EU resident; Map F2 By the prestigious watchmaking brand from Geneva for personal or VACHERON CONSTANTIN, the Patrimony ultra-slim • the goods purchased are intended Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 minute repeater model is among the thinnest in the world. family use only and are carried in your luggage; In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: Here in the versions with platinum and pink gold case. 154,94 Euro (VAT included); the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice display tables; the first floor has two rooms for the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical should include a description of the goods purchased, reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable your personal information as well as the details of technicians are available to look after the precious products are created with extreme care and top- your passport or any other equivalent document; timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. quality natural materials. A vast range of leather • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, third month after the month that you bought them; wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering Tiffany & Co. • several specific customs formalities are excellent value for money. Another strong point is Located in the luxury shopping street par the personalization of the products, organised to complied with; excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, returned to the Italian retailer • the invoice is one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There who can count Michelle Obama among their within four months after the purchase was made. is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. be shown at the customs exit point when leaving ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic T: 055 6505091. Off Map engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made Gianni Chiarini In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, BEFORE checking in). Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return Map C4 contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea beauty and design. The store has recently opened the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan Ugo Poggi brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which a new remarkable floor that brings together women’s fashion, customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice It came about in Florence in the early 20th has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. a craft gallery with artisan brands, a café, restaurant, must be returned within four months from the date century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun when the document was issued. glassware and furnishings. After a century, now 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. wine bar and terrace with views of the Duomo. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian in its third generation, today the brand proposes T: 055 2654306. Map D3

retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious Il Bisonte chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came Free” sign in its window). precious selection of antique silverware. No longer about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion The Rinascente department store in Florence, offer a transversal shopping experience 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in just internally produced furnishing accessories, but located in Piazza della Repubblica, which has combining fashion, quality craftsmanship, immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods also historic Italian and top quality international Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating brands. www.ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, been the commercial heart of the city since design, beauty products and food. A the passenger from having to return the invoice to 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories the Roman Age, is spread over a total area brand new guise for the department store, epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741. of 3,300 square metres with seven floors which proposes, side-by-side, clothes for Map E3 The brand’s key focus is on materials, including major international airports or main border crossings. its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after devoted to fashion, beauty, food and lifestyle. her with a timeless allure, lingerie and Most major department stores have Tax Free Vacheron Constantin Boutique vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage As with the numerous other points-of-sale beachwear, local and international products Refund offices. In the unique and exclusive setting that is of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open around the peninsula, the space is giving of fine craftsmanship, flowers and plants, 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. watchmaking design house in the world, founded its look a makeover to make shopping even suggestions for home & fragrance and skin the payment of a small administrative sum which Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is Map E4 more captivating and engrossing. and hair beauty products. And, last but is directly deducted from the amount of VAT also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the The thread running through that is driving not least, the “Tosca&Nino, the taste of refunded to the traveller. Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked PASSION SHOPPING the renovation of the Florentine store is tradition” restaurant and bar, open from 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy within a reasonable period of time, he or she Sepulchre, which came under the control of the AquaFlor Artisanship, a concept that is very dear to breakfast till after dinner, which focuses on should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. A perfume shop with the charm of past times, the city, which has been famous for centuries rigorously selected Tuscan products to enable www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture aforementioned companies. for the prestige of its manufacturing arts. you to rediscover the pleasure of local food, Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. of perfumes made using natural and rare raw 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Map F5 materials, personalisable through the choice of The restyling involves all the store’s spaces from pappa al pomodoro to ribollita. directly by customs offices. fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître and will be completed towards the end STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund LEATHER parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - of 2020, but the fourth floor, which has www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am- Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it just been returned to Florence in all its Cuoieria Fiorentina 1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica.

T: 055 2343471. Map H5 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE renewed splendour, is already ready to Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113. From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of

24 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada, Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition have shops at Il Forte, but there is also no to the traditional production of ambient diffusers shortage of several boutiques where tradition and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified meets innovation, such as Angela Caputi its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes Giuggiù with its works of art for wearing, and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine or a few multibrand shops as Boutique identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Fiacchini, that stands out for their choice of Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat international labels. But the real gems are the 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 historic shops, such as the one belonging to 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Antonio Artigiano, who has been creating Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am- hand-crafted footwear for more than forty 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La years now, and Giovanni del Forte, who Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3 VALLI TESSUTI LEONE CEI & SONS manufactures hand-made clogs for VIPs and See page 22. royal families, or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s La Ménagère ALTA MODA See this page. CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of shop of yesteryear, with its age-old charm around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with and bundles of precious fabrics. design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to completed by products for personal care, for the The nights, on the other hand, pass quickly, a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city environment and accessories. The essences are in fashionable nightspots such as Twiga or centre, in the space that was once occupied by the contained in packaging with designs inspired by the the historic La Capannina di Franceschi, an first Florentine household item shop, it combines glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the Sizing iconic venue from the 1960s, which has made industrial and recycled materials and design objects single-brand store provides a personalized layering Women,s clothes a powerful contribution to building up the for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat IT EUR US UK period and still today, with all its highs and Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. 36 32 1 4 lows, it still succeeds in exciting. T: 055 216559. Map E3 38 34 2 6 Marioluca Giusti The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant 40 36 4 8 Valli Tessuti Alta Moda focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long without a touch of self-congratulatory A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around design objects for the table and more besides, in a A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele 42 38 6 10 pier stretching into the sea, the historic snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura. rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most 44 40 8 12 beach clubs with their striped umbrellas and Here, in the summer months, the days pass instance, there is the legendary market, and glass and melamine collections are enhanced every beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries 46 42 10 14 year with new models with colour shades ranging the Liberty-style villas hidden away in the lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 you can find everything there. a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to 48 44 12 16 from white to black to transparent, to brighter make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial shade of the pinewood. This, and so much kilometres long) and the pinewood. The Market at Forte dei Marmi is a colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts more, is Forte dei Marmi, the seaside resort Among the historic establishments are genuine open-air boutique where you can appreciated by important international personalities and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm- Women,s shoes in the province of Lucca that takes its name the Silvio, Piero and Annetta beach clubs, buy precious fabrics or ceramics for your such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, IT EUR US UK from the fort located in the town centre but more recently fashionable new entry seaside home, but also leather goods, hats VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3 and from the marbles of the nearby Apuan international clubs such as Nikki Beach made of fine straw and cashmere cardigans, Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by 36 36 6 3 Alps. Located around an hour and a half (the one in Saint Tropez, in other words) all strictly Made in Italy. It goes without total white walls with niches where the accessories 37 37 6.5 4 by train from Florence, but also reachable are also doing well. saying that you cannot expect to find are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites SHOES 38 38 7.5 5 by bus (ask your concierge), since the early In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at neighbourhood market prices, but quality, in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am- Aquazzura 39 39 8.5 6 Almarosa, frequented by footballers and as we know, has to be paid for. And then 7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am- Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the 20th century it has fascinated industrialists 40 40 9 7 stars of the entertainment world, you can there are the focaccine, which, together with 1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a 41 41 9.5 8 such as the Agnelli and Siemens families Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am- typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with and intellectuals such as Thomas Mann or go shopping in the boutiques in the town the bomboloni (cream buns) are the snacks 7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes Luchino Visconti, to name just a few. The centre. And if you linger a while to watch the that symbolise summers in Versilia. You can Men,s clothes Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, major tourism boom occurred in the post- sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because buy them unfilled at the historic Focacceria European royalty and fashion insiders around the di Santa Maria Novella IT EUR US UK war period, when it became one of the most the shops stay open here till late evening in Valè, or Da Orlando, where they sell the filled globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in 50 46 36 36 glamorous holiday resorts in Italy. the summer months. versions. (C.Z.) Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- 52 48 38 38 Map D4 Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican 54 50 40 40 convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has Salvatore Ferragamo 56 52 42 42 ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ been open to the public for over four centuries Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, 58 54 44 44 (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the 60 56 46 46 products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed single brand stores and represent a production par Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, Men,s shoes is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her excellence on account of their quality raw materials women’s, accessories and perfume collections. IT EUR US UK pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary 40 40 7.5 6 York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient occupies the entire ground floor of the building, 41 41 8 7 white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century 42 42 8.5 8 to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that their former splendour thanks to restoration work. frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza 43 43 9 9 complete the brand’s collections. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” 44 44 10.5 10 Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits 45 45 11.5 11 www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo. The Merchant of Venice 46 46 12 12 T: 0584 80705. com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni- NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette,

26 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

28 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 29 6390_VOV_SALDI ESTIVI_WHERE FLORENCE_441x277.indd 1 13/06/19 16:57 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. The “fiorentina” hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- Buca Mario relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary the most iconic dishes in Florence A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 the original and tell it apart from the menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 hundreds of impostors, there are pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this a few tips you need to know. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, with unwritten rules that the visitor Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by needs to know to avoid falling foul fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, Cibrèo Ristorante of the restaurant owner, paying over freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the odds and to make sure they get In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. the real thing. Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone from a specific cut of a young Chianina fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta Giovannini (centre) with their kitchen brigade. Photo Lido Vannucchi cow, a part of the loin near the backbone Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus which has a T-bone in the middle. seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, It should be grilled at a very high fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try temperature, so that a fine crust forms com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this Tradition becomes contemporary 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. dish depends on the cooking: the meat www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 must be brown on the outside but red, Da Burde 0804. Map L4 In the spaces that hosted the stables of the ancient residence of art collector Stefano Bardini, Michelin one-star The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati is unveiled to lovers of creative cuisine. By Giulia Minero the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the a fiorentina must be eaten rare. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 n the ground floor of Villa Bardini, the dominates the restaurant’s culinary proposals. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini kgs, although bigger steaks are easily rooms of which are dotted here and Not by chance, here cotechino spiced sausages in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured available. And here is another sore point. there with paintings and sculptures and cold cuts are prepared by hand. Standing out Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go O fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina that make the restaurant resemble a modern among the distinctive dishes are ‘Scamerita di at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people by weight. An average price to be sure of art gallery and face out directly onto the garden cinta senese with onion, endive and raisins’ and waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- getting the real thing is around 50 euros IO Osteria Personale of the villa, guests at La Leggenda dei Frati are ‘Pigeon, hay, celery, turnip, carrot and orange and marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 a kilo. In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still welcomed by a bright, hospitable atmosphere ginger chutney’, in addition to fish or meat first conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera WITH. The traditional accompaniment is and can taste the quintessence of contemporary courses accompanied by homemade bread with surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few usually cannellini beans, washed down Tuscan cuisine. The true hearts of the restaurant the use of stoneground flours fully respecting modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera with a glass of Chianti. are its chefs, owner Filippo Saporito and his wife of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative the tradition of the past. And all followed by restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and WHERE. Here are four restaurants where Ombretta Giovannini, who together give rise a selection of homemade desserts by pastry chef way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. to an innovative menu yet without ever losing Gabriele Vannucci and accompanied by In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. sight of the most authentic culinary tradition of a prestigious wine list. seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) the location. Particular attention is devoted to the Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ choice of locally sourced ingredients, first and >> La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; ristorante-perseus-firenze). La Ménagère closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso foremost vegetables and aromatic herbs coming Costa S.Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545. Map G6 A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, (C.Z.) Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 from the restaurant garden, and meat, which www.laleggendadeifrati.it combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the Tuscan food Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni T: 055 20016 9 but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic www.oradariaristorante.com Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as recipes but tending towards a more creative Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon biscuits are made by slicing up a long cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or roll of baked dough while still hot. Winter Garden by Caino "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F The dough is made with flour, sugar, Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli labels and a highly select menu of beers. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a

with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory fortified local wine called Vin Santo. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Winter Garden by Caino Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, c/o Hotel Saint Regis dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it Cibreo is a typical main course of Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants Piazza Ognissanti, 1 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, T: 055 27163770 Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken www.borgosanjacopo.com it comes from the winning combination of prime www.wintergardenbycaino.com chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the and onion. with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an Caino has come about from the creative liaison street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or labels, along with others that are little known but Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s cooked in a herb broth and most Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative CANTINE PIZZA washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century way, with elements from every part of the globe, commonly served in a panino soaked Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong in the broth or topped with the local Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan based one is unmissable) or à la carte. delight for the senses. stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more parsley-based green sauce. crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made of Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe www.ilpalagioristorante.it and the taste buds. also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated and pepper. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the environment with tables both indoors and bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, Pizzaiuolo (Il) kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega proposal that looks to the Italian and regional 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the boiled several times - derives from the the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality fact that in the old days peasants used to Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. make a large pot and serve it, heated up, ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts over a number of days, each time tastier include gems such as amberjack served in three ways venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via than before. (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan simple focaccia baked in a wood oven labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia and dressed with olive oil and salt at any Enoteca Pinchiorri or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Via Ghibellina, 87 La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising baker’s, but of course everyone has their SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

T: 055 242757 Giorgio). Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 MARCO PASQUINI flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp enotecapinchiorri.it www.laleggendadeifrati.it Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft and salty, or made with ancient grains. How do you manage to be honoured with Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €.

PHOTO © (C.Z.) Enoteca Pinchiorri famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei PHOTO © www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Il Palagio items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 classic Tuscan dishes. www.ilpalagioristorante.it Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine Local flavours and seasonal products for a Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al fresco. enclosed by sweeping picture windows that c/o Hotel Lungarno make the most of the unique position and Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene breathtaking view over the city. www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Villa La Vedetta Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com c/o Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace www.villalavedettahotel.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Just moments away from the Piazzale Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also options too. The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant Winter Garden by Caino class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia c/o The Saint Regis Florence products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit just for its magnificent position looking over restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com Italian dishes. Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge menu shines an innovative spotlight on the garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze and lampredotto to more refined proposals in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection eyes and palate, in particular their original take times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from on tiramisù.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. APERITIVI pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria T: 055 242327. Map H5 Chiaroscuro Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Odeon Bistrot Florentines today are attracted by the original and Zoe Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del lighting. For years a favourite with the younger 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake Easy living zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Map H6 T: 055 215654. Map E4 (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of Procacci the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where BRUNCH This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning Ditta Artigianale institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6 best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging T: 055 211656. Map E3 brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Teatro del Sale Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co- Il Locale founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, Foody Farm Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original located in a small street not far from the Duomo. “The right food from the right places” is the motto brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate of this little restaurant where the quality and price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle original and genuine light lunch, with the option with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3 of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. Il Rifrullo and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3 In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in Roberto Bolle. Photo Andrej Uspenski summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. A great night of dance The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: The centre of Florence comes to life with music and dance steps by some of the most important 055 289810. Map E4 international dancers, coming together on the occasion of the Roberto Bolle and Friends. By Giulia Minero Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the fter the major success of the first renowned dance schools from all over the world Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. three editions, the Musart Festival to give rise to exciting programmes, coming Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 is confirmed among the outstanding about from the combination of differing A Se·Sto on Arno events of the summer, thanks to a formula styles and techniques. With striking stage sets, The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs combining major concerts, performances, art captivating music and inspirations drawn from every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze and culture visits. As is customary, the important some of the best known pieces from the 19th provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. task of - literally - ‘giving life to the dances’ of the and 20th centuries, as well as contemporary www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 festival, on 13 July is entrusted to the wholly choreographies, from a ‘niche art’ reserved for ADVERTORIAL Italian star of classical dance Roberto Bolle, who the few, dance has now become not only an art Signorvino will be at the heart of the eagerly awaited gala form but also a powerful cultural instrument, This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and evening Roberto Bolle and Friends. Once again, capable of enthusing both dance lovers and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. the chosen setting for the performance is Piazza new converts at the same time. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www. della Santissima Annunziata, not far from the signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. GELATERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Duomo. Here Bolle in the guise not only of ballet >> Roberto Bolle and Friends Gala Map F5 On the terrace of the famous Florentine museum situated in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, visitors can enjoy a typical Italian ice-cream made by Florentine artisans: there dancer but also of artistic director, has crafted c/o Musart Festival. 13 July 2019, from 9.15pm Three Sixty are eight classic flavours on sale: crema, cioccolato, fiordilatte, pistacchio, nocciola, frutti di a magical spectacle bringing together some of Piazza della Santissima Annunziata. Map H1 From May to September the Grand Hotel bosco, limone and fragola (in the photo, Director of the Uffizi Gallery Eike Schmidt). the most important ballet dancers coming from www.musartfestival.it – www.robertobolle.com Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its

38 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who artists of the period participated in its creation (the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi- Poggi”. Map I7 coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. the end of the 16th century, however, when it became Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and San Miniato al Monte city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto situated at one of the highest panoramic points in 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, Battistero Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between however, for those with problems walking). The outside Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 of the church is decorated with green and white Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli building that completes the considerably striking 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the The symbol of wealth and power, the building was appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but façade. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte th inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. It is Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th Mercato Centrale outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the The building is located on the left bank of the river, entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, important examples of Italian-style gardens in the by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. the historic covered market there has been a complex reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity Currently they are the site of four different museums: containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery activities and street food options, and this has now are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www. and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art become a point of reference for informal but good ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo- www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6 Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1 Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the CONDE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like PHOTO © that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. In the presence of the Medici it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 With the arrival of the fine weather, one of the most significant locations for an itinerary to discover Medici Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of Florence, the Museum of the Medici Chapels, is extending its opening hours to the public. By Giulia Minero civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the

he celebrations for the five hundredth The space that since 1869 has been known >> Museo delle Cappelle Medicee SHUTTERSTOCK.COM anniversary of the birth of two of as the Museum of the Medici Chapels, Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale the most significant personalities in a genuine family mausoleum, it was T: 055 0649430. Map F2 della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle T PHOTO © Florentine history, Cosimo I and Caterina de’ commissioned by the Medici to hold www.bargellomusei.culturali.it Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square Medici, offer the perfect opportunity for a visit the mortal remains of their deceased, are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues to the Museum of the Medici Chapels, thanks including Cosimo I. Passing through of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most Florence at your feet important sculptural cycles in the world. The most to the extending of opening hours to 5pm the Crypt, with its octagonal plan, in which famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on Piazzale Michelangelo is one of the most charming belvederes in Florence, an unmissable for the summer period. the tombs of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany display in its original position is a copy, whereas the terrace overlooking the city, an essential destination for tourists and Florentines alike. The Though it belongs to the circuit of the are visible, and through the monumental original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. panorama to be enjoyed from here is breathtaking, as it embraces the entire city, from Forte Bargello Museums, the Chapels is a part – Chapel of the Princes, built entirely using Map F4-G4 Belvedere to Santa Croce, along the Lungarni and the Ponte Vecchio, and then the Duomo together with the Basilica and the Biblioteca semi-precious stones, you reach the most Palazzo Vecchio with its dome and Giotto’s bell tower, Palazzo Vecchio, and beyond, the hills to the north of the Medicea Laurenziana – of the Complex of famous and admired site of the Complex, Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat city. In the square dedicated to Michelangelo there are bronze copies of his famous works: the San Lorenzo, the place where the Grand the New Sacristy created by Michelangelo, of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest David and the four allegories of the Medici Chapels of San Lorenzo, the originals of which are synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Dukes were accustomed to go to worship with its marvellous multi-coloured marble obviously conserved in the city. For a guaranteed wow effect, go there at sunset. You can get of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its SHUTTERSTOCK.COM and celebrate marriages and baptisms, built and extraordinary sculptural groups created imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of there by bus or on foot, going along the Lungarno, or from Piazza Poggi, by climbing up the and embellished by the best artists of the for Lorenzo de’ Medici, Duke of Urbino, and its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors charming Rampe del Poggi, a combination of steps, grottos and fountains. Map I7 make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www. Florentine Renaissance. Giuliano de’ Medici, Duke of Nemours. PHOTO ©

40 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) Santa Croce Museo degli Innocenti Museo Nazionale del Bargello that adorned the niches outside on the four sides Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale This imposing building, built between the 13th of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and museum on the first floor. On the second floor you a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober it continues its function as the “Institute of the 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the important collection of Renaissance sculptures, Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great documentary and historical-artistic heritage, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal and in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 experienced that profound artistic agitation that has Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open 2388606. Map F4 been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres Santa Maria del Fiore terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Museo Salvatore Ferragamo 2466105. Map H4 world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 This is a museum devoted to the history of the combination of art, faith and history located in Santa Maria Novella Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, the city’s main square, the religious, historical and Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of An elegant collection of works made of semi-precious year it organises exhibitions that investigate the del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, relationship between fashion and art. The museum Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on an extensive collection of stone samples. The works was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the del Duomo are all visitable with a single ticket façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious are displayed in chronological order from the early headquarters for his company and his workshop – the Firenzecard circuit that can be purchased online (full price €18), with synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am- and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine • Priority access to museums without needing to book prior booking necessary for the Dome. www. of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of 2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, • 72 hours available www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. www.firenzecard.it T: 055 218709. Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Museo di Palazzo Vecchio Villa Bardini and Gardens T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2 For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, Museo Stefano Bardini The most beautiful view of Florence earned it 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a Santo Spirito or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. place rich in history, art and culture, has become Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over private collection to Florence, where it was displayed Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 time it has undergone numerous enlargement and in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Cappella Brancacci transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great church has given its name to the entire surrounding The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Forte di Belvedere are rooms and private environments sumptuously including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici decorated by some of the most famous artists of the arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and a major presence of works from the Middle Ages restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am- starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum 5pm. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini. (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen 210030. Map D5 unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. 055 2342427.Map G6 garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 San Lorenzo Map G4 Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Orsanmichele Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Galleria degli Uffizi price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri Museo di Santa Maria Novella A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by second floors of the large building erected between Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works Christian worship. On the ground floor century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in it is one of the most famous museums in the world 558-2382195. Map C5 such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, the Church houses a grandiose the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel marble tabernacle by of the last major reconstruction work that took place in Cappelle Medicee sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Orcagna. The the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare originals of the the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. museum, but their history is closely associated with a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and numerous Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket sculptures marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. (works by unfortunately was never executed. The interior is designed and conceived as regards its sculptural painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria famous a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Donatello of rare expressive intensity. a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale Map E3 www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, Museo Giardini di Boboli Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence MUSEUMS & Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket responsible for designing their layout, creating the EXHIBITION SITES Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ model of the Italian-style garden that was to become David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza an example for many European courts. Populated (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the Map F2 grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of ascending the monumental staircase designed by the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. centre that hosts international level exhibitions, Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun FORTE DI BELVEDERE in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full The Forte di Belvedere dominating the Boboli Gardens with the Pitti Palace, in a lunette by Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum ticket price: €12. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. Giusto Utens. The Flemish painter is remembered for the series of Medicean villas in lunette dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Map E6 form that he painted for the third Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinando I, (1599–1602). where concerts, performances, contemporary art Map G2

42 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s the tram: the ticket must be validated using the purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord machines on the bus. holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices Can be used on buses, trams or trains. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com 5650555). 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: gestramvia.com) NEW The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on have them book for you at your hotel). You should travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains early bird then that could give you a significant travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

44 WHERE FLORENCE I JULY 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 45 V A SI E S T E S E

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L L Santa Maria a Ricorboli S S E VIA UGO FOSCOLO Chiesa di I C H E L VIA M A

San Salvatore al Monte N E L E

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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

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VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

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Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

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Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

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VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

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AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

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VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

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SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

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V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

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DUE STRADE

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5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • • Off Map Off Map

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

JULY 2019 10 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r ®

• Map C2 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE 4 STARS Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 ALL YOU CAN DO IN JULY Top events and places to be in Florence AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 and its surroundings ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends On to theyour Great way Beauty Itineraries to optimise WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION/WHERE-FLORENCE your stay in Florence www.manetmobile.com