Florence City Guide ®

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2018 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

V A SI E S T E S E 30 FOOD & WINE CASTELLO SESTO the guide apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 16 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI G S E Just a stone’s throw . DUPRÈ

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E from the Ponte Vecchio,

VIA ANDREA COSTA in via Porta Rossa you VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano can find the centre VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo of the Florentine SCONI BO STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE universe of Aspesi VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A

VIALE XI AGOSTO LUC V VIA SANT’APPOLINAR

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA A

E V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E Mercato Centrale F R À

VIALE SAN G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GI 30 FOOD&WINE O

ULI AENTINA V O CACCIN A N I N VIA F SOLANA I

PONTE D A

The Central Market is VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI F I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S H I A F I E VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA CC E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto a genuine institution T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C for lovers of good food, PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI frequented by tourists VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO DE IA FAENTINA V VIA DE T but also by Florentines TODA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIA PANCIATICHI VIALE ASTRONAUTI MAIANO

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO IO C CC C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA R LIBERAZIONE V 32 DINING ANNI BOCCA V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VI V. ARI O Coming about from the A SAN DO

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L IA V. F. BARACCA IAZZUOLA N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I P UCCI ME MUGNONE meeting between haute N I IC VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANIFOCUS Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace O R PIAZZA 8 Universtà VIA DEI CAPP ENTINA VIA DELAL VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze A O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria OGNESE PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I I A F VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA V

The AdorationL of the MagiV AI D INby O V O L I Gentile da Fabriano couture and fine cuisine, VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II V I A B O L CIO V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

discover the Gucci BOCCAC V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze DINING VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE NNI V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I A DI MONTUGHI LA 32

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA GIOV VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IA IAZZUO TERZOLLE Osteria da Massimo V VIALE DELLA Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA IA P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C SA VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI I N Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Bottura restaurantAS O D A P IS T O IA Chiesa San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I V

. .

VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA GUGLIELMO M A VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZE VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA 38 SIGHTSEEING VIA PALA LL I VIA FAENTINA I NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C O VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

LEOPOLDO FORBICI TI E RSALI & MUSEUMS D'ORO TI . V T O R OI E M A N U E L EI E

V BB L Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI F. . G A I N N I V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE dell'Ascensione LARGO TANUCCI For a few months now CA Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI

ph. alessandrobencini.com ph. Contents V I A G . B A R B E R A DECEMBER 2018 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Florence has had a new, T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M prestigious G locationLARGO Madre della ILANE

U A S T I Divina Provvidenza ANTON

CESARE Orti del Parnaso CO

V IA M A R A G L IA N O SI CANTÙ

3 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 14 NOT JUST FLORENCE IA V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO V

E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E LUDOVICOdevoted ANTONIO to modern V O BO VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue Suggestions for trips outside I A MUGNONE U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. and contemporary. ABBA VIALE DEI CADORNA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. the city that are able C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI art, Palazzo BartoliniDELLA VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N L V IA L E D E I M IL L E A V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G to satisfyVIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI any need. . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T Salimbeni MUGNONE N FERRARIS O VIA DEI CA VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA ALL YOU VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I oyal V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D L U Golf Club Parco Di Firenze CAN DO HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI R 4 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena CIN VIA A. BERTANI L IN THE CITY AL N D A G OI R D A N O VIA G. BAND

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE All the Nativity Scenes V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. in Florence’s museums IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O abies A R N O LUXURY TOPA BRANDS MARTIRI N 18 P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S 44 ESSENTIALS NOBILI I B DELLE VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei A V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, music and folklore. The best fashion designers V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT Information and tips V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA Bartolini Tondo by Filippo for your high-end shopping. AC A to experience the best O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I E Lippi (1452 ca.) V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI that Florence has L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O LE SILENT NIGHT VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R 8 Franchi MONTIGNANO RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G C PIAZZA R Cimitero to offer I O DI BESLAN V AI M As we approach Christmas, here INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto FASHION OUTLETS B B AI VIA D 28 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI VIA MASSA A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A is a secular pilgrimage throught Several of the best shopping di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO the masterpieces inspired by the destinations not far from Florence. L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A adoration of the Child Jesus,A R N Omany S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U of which can be found in Florence. V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA MICHELIN-STARRED MAP PAGESVIA DELL 46-47I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A 34 I Santa Maria Novella V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O SO Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ’ARI ERVI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E erina da Palazzo VI INI RESTAURANTS at VI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO

Santa Maria Novella I G C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria A O R I E L I M VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI VEL E’ VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS S . L U C I A Teatro D Università V I A IN NANDO MART VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C L F MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze AGR DPO ' I PIAZZA V. O Pucci Lucia LI VI A N I VIA GIOVANNI BOV Eight starred restaurants for Z TONIO SCIALOJA O DISCOVERING VIA DELL'AL VIA PALESTRO VIA MARSALA 12 EN sul Prato P. BATONI R AN VI OLI A DELL’A RTELLI Chiesa E MAZZ www.magzter.com A A Polimoda I M Santa Maria

V IA D E L L A S VIA DEL GIGLIO ’ O MENOTTI Parrocchiale T VIA AN LO LL CAS VI PIAZZA N Maddalena dei Pazzi V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI O ZA Teatro RI IR Sacro Cuore VIA FERDI STA VICO VIA MONTEBELLO RO SEPP PIAZZA CO V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I N ETTI RGO S VIA DENiccolini TI E’ VIA TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA O GIU A C VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O D B VIA DEI SER RINI AT A I

NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O a triumph of flavours, aromas VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI PONTE VECCHIO NOVELLA L VI VIA BRONZINO V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR D Santommaso T LU CI A PI VIA BRONZINO DE V. A VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei A V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A The “old” bridge is one of the and untold creativity. di San LE IL OBERDAN issuu.com/where-italia VIA I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele D VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA OMA V P O CH AS VIA TITO SPERI Paolino EL A C V.CANONICA e Gaetano V ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO DE E R T

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO FLORENCE ® MORE AT PAGE 38 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE 46-47 WHERE ITALIA SRL Top in town Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. If you are reading this magazine, you are very T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] 1 3 likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is www.whereitalia.com/florence because you are using quality tourist information PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF to guide you on your stay in Florence. Andrea Jarach ([email protected])

EDITORIAL This is because Where® is only found in the best (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) Andrea Jarach MANAGING DIRECTOR Publisher luxury hotels in the major cities of the world. Daniele Misrachi ([email protected]) Where® Italia Your hotel is sure to be part of this restricted MANAGING EDITOR group of hotels. Just as you are part of a restricted Alessandra Finzi ([email protected])

group of travelers who stand out from the crowd. Who seek the best MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Sophia Bertoli, Elena Binda, Language from every journey they make. And who usually have limited time Consulting Congressi (editorial advisor), Giulia available to get the best out of their trip. Minero, Prem Olsen, Elena Peverata, Jasmine Piazza, Leslie Ray, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli Two, three nights per destination. And the high-quality traveler wants ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici to be sure of getting the most out of this short period of time. 5 2 DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (redazione@ That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction)

up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what CARTOGRAPHY © Where Italia srl. 2018 museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find City Map: Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org - Fast Trains Network Map: close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® Dmitry Goloub - © Where Italia srl. 2018

was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); MARKETING & ADVERTISING Camilla Camerini, Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality ([email protected]) Travelers. ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ([email protected]) SHUTTERSTOCK PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travellers each MANAGER Paola Grilli ([email protected]) year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Maria Granata PHOTOS © spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for ([email protected]) those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO ([email protected]) We have been doing this for almost a century now. Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience. WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, in the next issue. IN ITALY Where® is published in Milan, Venice, Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, Florence and Turin by Where® Italia, in Rome Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl. is a symbol known all over the world. 1 most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Published in association with Where® magazine designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. and the where® climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 2 modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MVP EXECUTIVE AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari 4 in the world. 6 PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

PHOTO © MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning www.wheretraveler.com 3 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

DECEMBER

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

FESTIVAL

F-LIGHT YOUR MIND The places that symbolise Florence act as the setting for the by now 8 6 traditional Christmas fair, which is DECEMBER JANUARY staking its claim as one of the most 2018 2019 important festivals of its kind in Europe. “F-Light” is the scenographic “festival of light” that for a month covers and involves squares, monuments, historic buildings, basilicas and towers of the historic centre with video-mappings, projections, art installations and extraordinary and spectacular light games. As always, the festival will get under way with the lighting of the large Christmas tree in Piazza Duomo on the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. The theme of this year: “F-Light Your Mind”.

F-Light – Firenze Light Festival Various locations www.flightfirenze.it

4 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

ART FAIR EXHIBITION 28 20 16 31 NOVEMBER DECEMBER JULY DECEMBER

CHRISTMAS MARKET FASCINATION BETWEEN IN SANTA CROCE ART AND FASHION ▼ Huts and wooden stalls selling delicious Italian ►A theme for the interpretation of the and German titbits, decorations and hand-crafted splendid collection of the Museum of products. Street food, Italian and in some cases Fashion and Costume, which is housed international. An event that is now very dear to in Palazzo Pitti, “Tracce 2018 - Lasciarsi Florentines and also intriguing for tourists and the guidare dalla moda” guides you through 19 24 curious, held in one of the city’s main (and most a layout design combining clothing and OCTOBER FEBRUARY beautiful) squares. accessories (primarily prêt-à-porter) with paintings and sculptures coming from the 2018 2019 Christmas German Market - “Weihnachtsmarkt” collection of the Gallery of Modern Art. The Piazza Santa Croce ICONS BY BANKSY itinerary develops through a succession of combinations, some immediate, others ▲Between 2002 and the 2009 Banksy – the most mysterious and provocative of street artists – published 46 images on paper which he sells through his “print house” conflicting, some simply evocative. Pictures On Walls. They are images reproducing some of his famous works of street art, Among the many marvels, one that documenting what have become “popular frescos” but that have often been removed stands out in particular is the sumptuous or stolen, or simply worn away by time. The exhibition in Florence presents a selection pearly dress that Capucci created in 1986 as a vestal virgin’s costume for Norma of 20 prints of his best works, some of which famous (such as Balloon Girl, a genuine Tracce 2018 - Lasciarsi guidare dalla moda by Bellini: on the wall, in a sophisticated contemporary icon), as well as a large amount of photographic materials, original posters Museum of Fashion and Costume - dialogue between shades of white, are of his exhibitions and a selection of videos. Palazzo Pitti. Piazza Pitti, 1. the white-clothed characters portrayed in www.uffizi.it Banksy. This is not a photo opportunity Eterno Idioma (1899) by Giulio Bargellini. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Via Cavour, 1 www.palazzomediciriccardi.it A G BAXTER / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO ©

OUT OF TOWN CONCERT

A TOAST TO CHRISTMAS ROSSINI IN PARADISE As every year, the month of December “Note al Museo” (Notes at the Museum) is gives wine lovers the chance to take a genuine concert season created for the 8 10 part in an unmissable event: Cantine 13 inauguration of the new Museo dell’Opera del Aperte a Natale, organized by the Duomo (2015) that takes place in the spectacular DECEMBER Movimento Turismo del Vino (MTV) DECEMBEROCTOBER Sala del Paradiso. The high artistic quality, variety of the Tuscany Regional Authority. The debut and culmination of the event and uniqueness of the concerts proposed make is on the weekend of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception this an unmissable event that is regularly sold out. In December a (8-10 December), when the wine cellars that are members of MTV Tuscany homage to Rossini is scheduled, on the one hundred and fiftieth welcome all wine enthusiasts with visits, tastings, music and shows. anniversary of his death, with a selection of pieces performed by Various different experiences are proposed, according to the location and Red4quartet, an entirely female formation of the Orchestra of the the wine cellar concerned, from a Spa with baths and massages to the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. tasting of typical products in combination with wines from the wine cellars. Note al Museo - Gioachino Rossini, 150 anni dopo For dates, places, times and organized events, you are advised to consult Museo dell’Opera del Duomo - Sala del Paradiso the official website. Free entry with booking obligatory Cantine aperte a Natale (Wine Cellars Open at Christmas) www.red4quartet.it www.mtvtoscana.com operaduomo.firenze.it Photo © FrancescoCabras

6 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | FOCUS Silent Gentile da Fabriano, The Adoration of the Magi (1423) Night As we approach Christmas, Child sleeping in a manger, a young mother full of grace, shepherds and wise men: some of the when Christians celebrate greatest artists of all time have tested their skills Christ’s birth, here is a secular with this scene, from Giotto to Caravaggio, from pilgrimage through the Leonardo da Vinci to Chagall, from Dürer to Gaudí. The Nativity has been a recurrent theme in masterpieces inspired by the AChristian art since its beginnings, as has been shown by finds in adoration of the Child Jesus, the Roman catacombs. Certain iconographic elements are many of which can be found in recurrent, others are the product of their time: until the Renaissance solemnity took precedence over realism; it was only in Florence. BY ELENA BINDA the 17th century that the subversive Caravaggio dared to paint Mary as half-lying on the ground and weary following birth, Elena Binda causing quite a scandal. But in Florence, of course, naturally it is Lifestyle Editor above all Renaissance Nativity Scenes that are present: whether Where® Italia you are a Christian or not, their absolute beauty will be a source of inspiration for you. So here are some pointers so you can contemplate them from close up.

NATIVITY SCENES AT THE UFFIZI To start in fine style, Room 5-6 of the Uffizi Gallery conserves a majestic wooden panel, three metres by three, tempera painted with impressive, scintillating mastery with applications of gold and silver: it is The Adoration of the Magi by Gentile da Fabriano, a work dated 1423 and considered the masterpiece of international Gothic in Italy. On the panel, an exotic procession of men and animals winds its festive way to pay homage to the Holy Family, bathed in light on the left: the sumptuous dress, the astonishing details and the opulence of the scene are perfect to celebrate both the artist’s skill and the client’s wealth. This altarpiece, in fact, was commissioned from Gentile by the banker Palla Strozzi, who contemporary documents certify as Florence’s wealthiest citizen. Room 15 of the Uffizi, on the other hand, is dominated by the “Portinari Altarpiece”, a triptych by Flemish painter Hugo van der Goes and datable in around 1478. Painted in Bruges and commissioned by Florentine noble Tommaso Portinari, the work arrived in the city in 1483, transported by sea to Pisa. With its six and a half metres of width, it was the most majestic painting by the Flemish school ever seen in Florence, and it had considerable impact on local artists. The Michelangelo Buonarroti, Doni Tondo (1505) centre of the work is obviously the Baby Jesus lying on the ground,

8 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

number of times in art books all over the world. the Nativity. After concluding the construction conserved: the work, among the most original himself. In this Adoration of the Shepherds, A Michelangelo in a state of grace, perhaps of the grandiose dome in 1436, the need was of the Renaissance, presents a “double” abounding in symbols, the painter shows that stimulated by the presence in the city of felt to complete the eight circular windows with nativity scene, so to speak. In the foreground, he had studied in great depth the Portinari Leonardo and Raphael, painted this scene in stained-glass works of a similar high level. The in fact, a classical group is represented, with the Altarpiece, which had recently arrived in the 1505 for Florentine merchant Agnolo Doni: clients established a sort of “tender” process in Virgin on the throne holding the Child Jesus on city, of which he echoes the care devoted the “still image” of Joseph passing the Child which, among others, Donatello and Paolo her knees. But behind this traditional image the to the details. into Mary’s hands is of such realism and Uccello participated. It was the latter who was author has painted the interior of a building, In the shepherd who is pointing to the such expressiveness that this painting commissioned to design three tondos: the where two episodes in the life of Saint Anne, Child, captured in an extraordinarily has rightly taken its place in art history. Resurrection, the Annunciation and the Nativity. Mary’s mother, are set. On the right, on the expressive gesture, the portraitist of The Adoration of the Child created in The painter, who found himself designing the staircase, the meeting of Anne with her the powerful wanted to give himself 1619 by Gerrit van Honthorst, a Dutch cartoon for a stained-glass window for the first husband Joachim is narrated, while on the left the present of a cameo appearance, painter known in Italy as “Gherardo time, chose to refer to a previous painting of his, the birth of the Virgin is illustrated: it is a rare, by painting himself for once. delle Notti” on account of his propensity The Adoration of the Child, which today is precious view of the daily lives of the women of to paint touching nighttime scenes, conserved in the Staatliche Kunsthalle in the most well-to-do classes of the Renaissance, A FRAGMENT OF RUSSIA must ideally be added to this admirable Karlsruhe, in Germany. However, the planning which the Master has rendered in an IN FLORENCE collection. The painting was held in a wing was not followed by the execution, which unforgettable manner. To finish, Florence also has an entire of the Uffizi in 1993, when the Mafia set off a instead was completed by Agnolo Lippi. As all A celebration of the birth of Christ certainly church devoted to the Nativity: do not car bomb in Via dei Georgofili outside the the other stained-glass windows of the Duomo, could not be absent from the Basilica of Santa expect a typical example of Tuscan building. In the attack five people lost their lives the Nativity has also undergone major Annunziata, the main Marian shrine in Renaissance, however, because this amazing and 48 others were injured: in addition to the restoration and integration work over time. Florence. Here, in around 1460, Alessio religious building is more reminiscent of a human victims, various works of art also Baldovinetti decorated the cloister with a church in Moscow. Located a few blocks from Paolo Uccello, Nativity, stained-glass window suffered the consequences of that vicious OTHER NATIVITIES IN FLORENCE fresco depicting a Nativity Scene. Despite its the Fortezza da Basso and built between the Filippo Lippi, Bartolini Tondo (1452 ca.) attach. Unfortunately Gherardo delle Notti’s Among the countless Madonnas with Child imperfect state of conservation, the work is still late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Russian nativity scene was numbered among these. that it is possible to admire in the city, a capable of exciting with its airy beauty and the Orthodox Church of the Nativity stands out but the still-life in the foreground, with the mention is merited for the work known as the agreeability of its naturalistic details. with its unmistakable profile characterised by della Seggiola. I have looked at her for a week characteristic attention to detail, is also amazing NATIVITY SCENES IN THE DUOMO “Bartolini Tondo”, painted by Filippo Lippi in Among the paintings devoted to the theme, onion-shaped cupolas. The first impetus for the and only then did I truly see her. How many to say the least. In Room 35, on the theme of The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the around 1452. The painting is held in an finally, we must remember The Adoration of the church to be built came directly from Grand other divine things!” Yes, the Madonna della the Nativity, we can see the interpretation of Duomo, the symbol of the city, is named after extraordinary location, the Palatine Gallery: Shepherds that is held in the Church of Santa Duchess Maria Nicolaevna, daughter of Czar Seggiola, one of the masterpieces by Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci in person: for this Adoration Christ’s mother herself: there are therefore many this is an almost incredible collection of Trinita, considered the masterpiece of Nicolas I, but a cultured, rich and well this too held in the Palatine Gallery. It is not a of the Magi Leonardo had studied a very iconographic references there to the masterpieces that belonged to the Medici Ghirlandaio. Executed between 1483 and integrated Russian community had been Nativity as such, but it is worth the effort of complex composition, but the work was left miraculous birth of the Child. Among these the family, housed on the main floor of Palazzo Pitti. 1485, the altarpiece is part of a splendid cycle present in the city for a long time. Indeed going to look at it: you will find yourself face-to- incomplete. Today, therefore, we can admire a Madonna of the Nativity stands out; it is a It holds the largest concentration in the world of frescos commissioned by banker Francesco Tchaikovsky and Dostoevsky, among others, face with one of the most marvellous paintings large mixed panel that shows parts drawn in marble sculptural group created directly by of works by Raphael, then Titian, Tintoretto, Sassetti for the family chapel: it was painted by stayed here. “My God!” - wrote the latter in a in the history of art. Because this is Florence, the charcoal, others already painted in watercolours Arnolfo di Cambio, the Duomo’s first architect Caravaggio and Rubens. The paintings Domenico Bigordi, known as Ghirlandaio, a letter - “What treasures are found in the capital of the Renaissance: at Christmas and an yet others finished with oils. The Genius’ and the person responsible for the first phase of completely cover the walls of the rooms, in an sublime portraitist and master of Michelangelo galleries! My God! I have seen the Madonna throughout the rest of the year. hand is nevertheless perfectly recognisable. In the works in around 1300. The sculpture was almost breathtaking order to replace the work left incomplete by part of the original façade of the cathedral, crescendo. It is here Leonardo, the Augustinian monks who were subsequently transformed by Renaissance that the tondo that Two views of the Russian Orthodox Church of the Nativity the clients called upon Filippino Lippi, who works: today it is conserved in the Museo the noble Leonardo finished an Adoration of the Magi in 1496 that is dell’Opera del Duomo. Mary is represented Bartolini conserved today in Room 28 of the museum: at lying down, resting on her elbow, according to commissioned the centre of this very rich composition, an the typical iconography of those years, also from the painter adorable Child graciously receives the gifts used by Arnolfo’s contemporary Giotto. In the Lippi is offered by the Magi, in whose semblances a second and definitive construction, which homage to the members of the Medici family is transformed the Cathedral into a Renaissance supposedly concealed. Not exactly a Nativity masterpiece under the guidance of Scene, more precisely a “Holy Family”, that is the Brunelleschi, there is also no shortage subject of the very famous Doni of references to Tondo by Michelangelo, exhibited in Room 41 at the Uffizi and reproduced an incalculable GABRIELE MALTINTI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GABRIELE MALTINTI

Arnolfo di Cambio, Madonna della Natività, detail (1296-1300). PHOTO ©

10 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

► RICHARD GINORI 1735 Made of decorated ceramic Discovering Ponte Vecchio GIFT with ‘Squirrel’ motif, this square valet tray for the ‘Totem’ It is one of the undisputed collection is the ideal solution symbols of Florence and, as such, for keeping all your most is one of the most photographed GUIDE essential objects in order and with style. Available in sites in the world. Here are some 22 different versions. details so you can get to know it Take advantage of a stroll www.richardginori1735.com better. BY AMAL ANGELOTTI through Florence to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewel or some irst of all, it must be said that Ponte other alluring detail of style. Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is Where® brings you a pick indeed “old”. The first to identify of the best Made in Tuscany ◄STEFANO RICCI a ford in the Arno were the Zip closure and padded back support

Etruscans. The Roman founders SHUTTERSTOCK creations and guarantees for the maximum comfort make this of the village of “Florentia” built a that you won’t leave hand-stitched calfskin backpack with wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner braided leather details practical and

F PHOTOS © empty-handed! of the current one, which dates back to around fashionable. Also available in black and 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings the city: considering it a source of great pride, burgundy. www.stefanoricci.com and modifications, this passage across the Arno to his private residence, without exposing the Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening Giulia Minero has remained in its place, actively participating in sovereign to any danger. up new larger, more panoramic windows for his Lifestyle & News the history of the city. benefit. One rather romanticised version claims Editor A UNIQUE HISTORY that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of Where® Italia ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The change of identity of the zone during such beauty, would decide to save the bridge The bridge is characterised by a solution with the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. lowered arches, never previously seen, which Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction makes it particularly stable and its profile butchers and fishmongers, who had a seems to prove that this merit cannot be unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was preference for the bridge on account of the ascribed to the German dictator. understood to be a natural continuation of the ease with which they could throw their waste road, and so it has shops and porticos along into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was LUXURY SHOPPING both sides facing towards the centre, each with preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ For more than four hundred years, Ponte a single shop window closed by strong wooden and jewellers’ shops, which were more Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by ▼OFFICINA PROFUMO-FARMACEUTICA doors, and often with a picturesque backroom appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they artisans creating admirable gold and silver DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA protruding over the river. have continued their presence there ever since objects. Still today, this remains the commercial What better way to being out the Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte vocation of the neighbourhood, which is aromas of pomegranate than a the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, terracotta reproduction of the fruit? that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici sometimes a protagonist – of the history of starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, ‘Melograno in terracotta’ is soaked the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, in ‘Melograno’ perfume by Officina between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria degli Archibusieri on one side, and between ▲ ANNAMARIA CAMMILLI Novella, slowly leaving its fragrance in Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on An expression of mastery and the environment. www.smnovella.com the other, are also swarming with points of creativity made in Florence, interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, this 18 ct. pink gold ring from however, that sometimes you need only turn the ‘Santorini’ collection plays ▲OFFICINE PANERAI into an unknown alley to get away from the on the colour contrast provided In the steel ‘Luminor 1950 bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. by combining two chrysoprases 3 Days’ watch, the aesthetics

and a pink quartz. of the case are highlighted by UNDER THE BRIDGE www.annamariacammilli.com the chromatic contrast between Finally, you should know that there is also the black dial and the elegant life under the bridge: the historic Società beige strap. www.panerai.com Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.

12 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the

traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’ Anfiteatro town declared a World Heritage Site by PHOTOS © UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the museums, archaeological excavations, churches appearance, are dotted with cypresses and unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far round this small town, the 13th/14th-century love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces appearance of which is still practically small town of Settignano. and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unchanged, is almost like going back in time. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for medieval towns and culinary festivals. San Gimignano is famous above all for its its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses,

STEVANZZ / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM STEVANZZ medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, TUSCANY BIKING one time and today are just fifteen, including is around half an hour by car from the centre of Would you like to discover the area around some in ruins and without their tops but still Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there Florence from a different perspective, more PHOTO © visible as part of the urban fabric. between September and November you can on a human scale and in contact with nature? witness two key events for the economy and Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, Santa Luce lake (Pisa), panorama on sunset Not just Florence Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and olives. medieval town and Medici villas, taking in and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan both on foot and on the numerous buses towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of countryside in ways that would otherwise be If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also departing from the city centre. Over the years the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost an unrivalled cultural and the good news is that around an hour be easily reached from Florence in about an the hill of Fiesole has been the source of east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of all the tours envisage rest and refreshment away by train, bus or car you will find hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this These bare, softly undulating hills, with their wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs (see is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, privileged observatory, dotted with villas, characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar not particularly sporty but would still like to Here are some suggestions page 49), medieval towns and abbeys which stands in a unique monumental visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique andI kilometres of coastline for bathers. context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage perspective, then you can choose a tour by for trips outside the city that Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Once you’ve Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART completed your visit to this unbelievable is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge. If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the square, if you have a little time left, you can For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political architectural wonders that will catapult you fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti About an hour by train from Florence is by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most historic centres, surrounded by ancient prestigious universities in the world. 16th-century walls, today still practically fully With a brief trip by coach from Florence you intact and walkable in their entirely. You can reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a centres in Italy, which is also included on tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s Chiara Zaccarelli benches. The picturesque historic centre has nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is Travel Editor remained almost intact, including countless renowned for its unique shell shape, for its VVCOGO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Where® Italia medieval churches, which have earned Lucca architectural integrity, and because twice a the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

Renaissance squares and buildings and di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental San Gimignano PHOTO © Roman amphitheatres. importance for the Sienese, which sees the

14 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 15 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. W The Guidelines M A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. R . C ACCESSORIES E T R anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, The boutique offers an extraordinary selection 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In Aspesi at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored and designer Angela Caputi chooses these lines, elegant details and natural materials. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete His current collections are still based on the 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open all those who like their outerwear without flashy on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon- Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat where skilled artisan hands create elegant items 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING 055 287931. Map E4 best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

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DINING New classics to wear Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the In Via Porta Rossa, just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, is where you find the centre of the Florentine price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as universe of Aspesi: for her and for him, the brand that symbolises elegant minimalism. By Elena Binda a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include Festive shopping at the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and Valdichiana Outlet Village reations by Mario Merz, Jannis Kounellis, Ponte Vecchio. It is there that you can find all the bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies in one of the most beautiful, semiformal clothing is usually considered de Mimmo Paladino and Remo Salvadori: Aspesi collections, as always aimed at those – as distinctive and evocative corners of Tuscany, between the provinces of Arezzo and Siena, at rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars CAspesi brand has always had a deep love regards clothing – who are demanding rather are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ the intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and for art, which is reflected in the style of its points than “trendy”. Tradition, rigour and constant area is specifically offered. the Siena–Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of sale. The presence of genuine collector’s items stylistic research are in fact the recurrent Set meals: prices are per person and usually of a typical Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion embellishes its essential design, acting as it does elements in the style of this company, which refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). and sport, in addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / as an accessory for refined, niche furnishings. has written its story through minimal and more besides. There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Inside, displayed midway between market sophisticated collections. The brand, which is throughout the year: for instance, Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, stalls and works in museums, the clothes and celebrating its 50th anniversary, is undergoing a SIGHTSEEING Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, accessories proposed by Aspesi show themselves phase of major communicative relaunch, capable The information provided on museums and Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, monuments is verified as meticulously as in all their finery. Aspesi is an informal clothing of fascinating millennials looking for new classics. Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, Us Polo and many more besides. possible. However, data such as telephone brand, known and appreciated all over the world numbers, opening hours, prices and the During the festive season, the Village will be transformed into a marvellous village for its use of exclusive, avant-garde fabrics, for its >> www.aspesi.com accessibility of sites are all subject to change, illuminated with Christmas lights and decorations. Throughout the month of December unconventional spirit and its against-the-tide “no Aspesi Uomo on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration its central plaza will host a skating rink, a merry-go-round and a magnificent miniature logo” philosophy. There are two Aspesi shops in Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931 work, museum loans or changes electric train, which will take guests on a tour around the glittering shop windows. of management. Ask your concierge. Florence, for Men and for Women, and both are Aspesi Donna For all information: www.valdichianaoutlet.it located in Via Porta Rossa, right next to the Via Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987

16 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 17 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am- 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. 7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 215774. Map F4 This limited edition gilded ‘Le Lion de T: 055 212995. Map E4 CHANEL’ powder compact is an exclusive BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily MIU MIU—www. creation that illuminates the complexion and ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. miumiu.com. Open dresses the skin in light golden pigments. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- T: 055 293811. Map E4 Mon-Sat 10.30am- 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. 7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 2608931. Map F3 Desert boot made of soft brushed calfskin by 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon- FRATELLI ROSSETTI. The velvet laces and bottom T: 055 287931. Map E4 T: 055 292347. Map E4 Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. made of coloured natural rubber with non-slip grip Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. make this boot modern and informal. CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Sizing T: 055 287931. Map E4 Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. Map E3 Women,s clothes Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- T: 055 298181. Map F3 T: 055 219041. IT EUR US UK 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am- 36 32 1 4 Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. 7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. 38 34 2 6 T: 055 219179. Map E3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. 40 36 4 8 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ T: 055 267471 Map E3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 42 38 6 10 Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 44 40 8 12 Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon- T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. 46 42 10 14 Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 T: 055 9040100. Map E3 48 44 12 16 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 75927010. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily Women,s shoes HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Map E3 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. IT EUR US UK T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2381004. Map E3 T: 055 292123. Map E4 36 36 6 3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— 37 37 6.5 4 www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. 38 38 7.5 5 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo T: 055 285832. Map F3 39 39 8.5 6 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. 40 40 9 7 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 T: 055 210856. Map F3 41 41 9.5 8 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4

HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via Men,s clothes Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 294909. Map F4 dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. IT EUR US UK T: 055 216227. Map F3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. 50 46 36 36 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. T: 055 2658082. Map E4 52 48 38 38 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. 54 50 40 40 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. 56 52 42 42 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am- T: 055 2398688. Map E4 Map E3 58 54 44 44 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. 60 56 46 46 T: 055 264254. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Men,s shoes Map E3 T: 055 293142. Map E4 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via IT EUR US UK della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open 40 40 7.5 6 T: 055 2670086. Map D3 Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 41 41 8 7 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 42 42 8.5 8 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- 43 43 9 9 7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. 44 44 10.5 10 T: 055 212305 Map E3 T: 055 287761. Map F3 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12 FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. Practical and in perfect ASPESI style, this bag Among the outfits of the F/W collection 2018 presented on the catwalk by BOTTEGA VENETA, 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- with contrasting handles has three outside this satin dress is the right choice for an indoor or outdoor evening. Fluid, slender lines, finished 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. pockets and one inside for your laptop. with delicate antiqued silver decorations and a cascade of overlapping ruches. T: 055 2382883. Map F4 T: 055 290284. Map F3

18 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 19 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S ILE A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E V APR S VI VIA XX

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo BO SC ONI STRADA PROVINCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’APPOLINARE

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

AENTINA V A N N VIA F I

PONTE D A

F VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto T Amerigo VIA VECCHIA FIESOLANA T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM DA MAIAN VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO O C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A

FACCIO LI L E VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO STID D V. CUPOLA VIA SAN DOMENICO V. ARI O

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L I V. F. BARACCA A N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I UCCI MUGNONE

I VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace NTINA R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze AE O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria F PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA VIA

L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA BOLOGNESE V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IAZZUOLA TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara A V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U CARACCIOLO F.V. P I S T O I A VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O E L E I I Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M P VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della A G Divina Provvidenza CESARE Orti del Parnaso N I CO MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V N D O M E N I VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I MURATORI SA Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue I A MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA SHOPPING ANTONELLISHOPPING V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape Sun 10.30am-8.30pmPIAZZA c/o Rinascente-Piazza della for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Brunello Cucinelli LuisaSTA Via Roma Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A with style. www.elenamiro.com. Repubblica. T: 055 219113. products and the unveiling of innovations. Map D3 L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINIMULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. ACIO www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun A VIA G. PAISIELLO up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via O N VIA POGGI VIA SociétéFRA' DOMENICO Anonyme BUONVICINI IL Papiro (Il) VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in VIA G. DOLFI Roma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I An independent shop of North-European Established in 1976 in Florence,Campo Di Il PapiroR A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte Map F3 V I A C A V O U R T: 055 219113. Map F3 E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder VIA DELLE RUOTE luxury the world over. A global powerhouse PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora conception inspired by the underground produces objects drawing their inspirationD Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O Giovanni Raspini atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi production of high-quality cashmere knitwear its Florence store also offers aV IA V Edigitalized N E Z IA FINE ART In the beatingV. C. heart of the fashion district, of London, Berlin and New York (the name (diaries, address books, photo albums, articlesA O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI andN today boasts top-level production withVIALE FILIPPO STROZZI purchasing experience: instead of displaying N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA Antico SetificioVIA DEI SETTE FiorentinoSANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI totalC look men’s and women’s collections. Today based in ValdichianaPIAZZA (between Siena, Arezzo the garments, they have been replaced with Guggenheim,Cimitero who founded an avant-garde art accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon- I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to Passerella dell'Isolotto it is seen as a model enterprise all over the and Florence) is a genuine concept store that interactiveS. Giovanni installations. Don’t miss the elegant galleryVIA inD New York called Société Anonyme in Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri a great tradition of Renaissance textile art VIA MASSA world for its support for the dignity of work and terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open boasts a personalized layout design where Giardino the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I and history, thanks also to its famous warping V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIAMon-Sat SAN GALLO 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. VIA CITTADELLA a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino machine based on a design by Leonardo Pitti Mosaici DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com.di Valfonda Open VIA DEL PRATELLOjewellery - with a unique personality, often www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 renown and niche brands, as well as its own Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA P EI R C A P P O N I da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been A Z N E A F A I V Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 animal-themed,V IA G U E L F A sometimes oversized or limited 9064116. Map F3 Giardino men’s and women’s collection that is only sold V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici producing some of the most sumptuous VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO285832. Map F3 edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- Convento in-store and VIAonline. GIAMBOLOGNA www.societeanonyme. Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine VIA PIO FEDI Marinadi San Marco RinaldiVIA G.LA PIRA VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI crafted white bronze creations, always having it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda Elena Mirò REPA Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel LO in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO PORTA AL L semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I a style that is midway between minimalism and 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon- Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE to provide coverings for walls, framed items and PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE classicism as the common denominator.VIA SANTA From SAN GA via della Mattonaia,VIA 24/a/b/c/d. GIUSEPPE LA FARINA (Sant’Ambrogio GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI curvy women, for over 30 years ElenaPIAZZA Mirò a wide range of collections, featuring both Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing EM U I F A I V the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” contemporary and classic lines that are District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates A R N O Palazzo Corsini sul Prato items that enhance every woman’s look with casting, to diamond-setting, each piece is updated on a seasonal basis. ChiesaThese include San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLOStefano Ricci VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI di Firenze Galleria Romanelli entire made-to-measure residential VL.projects E. CIALDINI all a contemporary, refined and ever new style. entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo degli Inglesi The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open episcopale americana www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI Fromdella dresses Beata to outerwear, from trousers to ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL for a total look thatDELLA exudes class and elegance. V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I Florence”,V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I with the purest male elegance as V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ CENTRALE SANTISSIMA precious sculpture artwork for six generations T: 055 V.Z2741501. Map E4 VIA DE’GINORI V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO accessories, to beachwear,Stazione Ferroviariathe brand expresses it.marinarinaldi.com.ANNUNZIA Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; the watchword. These, in short, are the values VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano P E M A Z Z I N I LI ORI of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI OC IN Spedale degli Innocenti VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO V AI S O L F E R NI O SO Richard Ginori 1735 degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its CD AME LAG RDPV OI ' N DELLA STAZIONE A V I A C A V O U R workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, VIA MILAZZO VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI V AI M A S A C C OI Luxury shopping D E ’ second generation, has become a successful Tradition and excellence in the high-quality COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB . L DEI NELLI VIALE GIUSEP where sculptors and their students carry out their V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VIA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard ateri V I A R I C VIA DEI SERVI .C na Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A C O L O N N A international group. From clothing (jackets, suits Sie Medici Riccardi O S da Museo I work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . P. DI MADONNA C BORGO PINTI V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci Ginori “artistic factory”,VIALE of MANFREDO 18th-century FANTI origin, L’ISOLOTTO V. DEGLI AVELLI Basilica A V AI D E G L IA L F A N I and high-fashion sportsVIALE BERNARDO items, SEGNI but also shirts and V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO L trade. Work is done by commission on original VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI

VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI Basilica di VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T still produces accessories for the table and living VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI LORENZO S ties) to VIAjewellery, GIORDANI from leatherwear to perfumes L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara V I A P I G N O N E L V I A D E ’ V A N N I Ponte della Vittoria VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ E VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS Teatro A D Università room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km V I VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIOand the SR Home and SR Junior collections, VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO from Florence) using ancientVIA MARSALA working techniques. P. BATONI VI Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa Polimoda Santa Maria com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA Italian style and international trends. www. V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro over the world, making production entirely hand- Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4 VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova Leone Cei & Sons Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA LO FARINI point. Faithful to the valuesVIALE ofGIUSEPPE the MAZZINI manufacturing V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2 D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO Torchio (Il) V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMOarmchairs faithfully reproduced from antique VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO di San A OBERDAN Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting VIA DEL SOLE Santi Michele I VIA G. LEOPARDI VIA PIETRO COLLETTA PIAZZA V models from a rare and abundant archive. VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 e Gaetano VIA

VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO ECCHIETTI V A AMI . A N Z O N I ROMA OSUE' CARDUCCI V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I DI SAN V V. I tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI I VIA DELLE OCHE VIA DELLA SPADA DELLO B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VIA DEI PEPI G The production, entirely made in Florence, is V and today still uses the original ancient hand SALVI IA VIA DEL PORCELLANA VIA DI MEZZO MATTONAIA LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI O V

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CHI A R N O Palazzo L ARTIRI VIA DEI FEDERIGHI P. DEGLI MAGGIORE Loggia BORGO LA CROCE P. DEI D V. GIORDANO BRUNO materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. A D E I Strozzi DEL POPOLO VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA Chiesa STROZZI TRE RE ER del Pesce VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA DE rigorously by hand following traditional VIA DEL PURGATORIO VI VIA Di San Bartolomeo VIA DELL'ANCONELLA VIA DEGLI ANSELMI P. DEI SGC FIRENZE - PISA - LIVORNO PIAZZA IA

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GAZ Badia Borghese VIA LAMBERTI pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated VIA DI SAN SALVI FEDERIGA Porta San Frediano Palazzo Corsini delle dei Lombardi PIAZZA A PIAZZA FRANCESCA V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O DEI CERCHI Fiorentina VIA GHIBELLINA Mercato di MONA al Parione Poste M I Museo Ponte E VIA FRA' PAOLO SARPI G6 VIA S. ONOFRIO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA

VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello Rinascente to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini Palazzo VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salimbeni VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the of fabrics still produced on ancient looms AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S. Frediano SO D PIAZZA I DE EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA ideal place to discover theS. Maria best Degli Angeliof fashion, or limited editions, or produced on request JEWELLERY & WATCHES SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi VIA DE Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo IO di San Firenze I IA accessories, beauty, home and design items. and based on customers’ designs. Qualified F Chiesa VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA A V.D.B PACCI D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILLARA VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della Angela Caputi Giuggiù VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA For women, proposals of the best Italian and consultancy service provided on antiques and PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia COSTUME JEWELLERY LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A The brand is renowned CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO DEI VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N Ainternational brands range from the classicV I A G I O T Tto O on the reproduction of period items. www. VIA DEL LEONE

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’ VIA VINEGIA VIA DELL’ORTO Santa Trinita VIA DEL LEONE V BORGO ALLEGRI BORGO DELLA STELLA BORGOVIA SANTO DEI GEPPI SPIRITO V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E ICI the contemporary and for men from formal to leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via PIAZZA Palazzo ELL T D V I A P I S A N A . Santo Stefano S V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Gucciardini VI creations made from unusual materials such as VIA DI SOFFIANO DEL CARMINE V.d. MAGALLOTTI al Ponte RU Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI NERI EI smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Palazzo della Missione Uzi VIA DEI MACCI VIA DELLE CASINE PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIROLAMI DEL GRANO A D CHE Basilica di V I A A R E T I N A LU VI V IA P IE T R O T H O U A R VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO DE' FRESCOBALDI NGARNO NTO San Remigio BRA VIA DEI BENCI Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA A Chiesa V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O San Jacopo AR LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI E Ponte Vecchio CH ELLANI Evangelica San Giuseppe D CHI IB A Palazzo USIERI VIA DE Metodista VIA DEL GHIRLANDAIO BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI AST VI Cappella Pazzi VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO Macchiavelli VIA DELLO SPRONE C BE VIA DI CAMALDOLI VIA DEI SERRAGLI TERIA d. GU I N Chiesa di ANGIOLIERI OSCA ERI BORGO SANTA CROCE VIA ● M LIA Santa Maria del Carmine Cassetti Boutique V. OS VIA SANT’AGOSTINO VIA DEI SAPONAI VIA E VIA MAFFIA VIA DEI VAGELLAI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA I V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva MAG VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI SIN VIA PIAGENTINA DEI GIUDICI NC Basilica di Santo Spirito VI A D EI BARBADORI C O R A V. DEI VELLUTINI Rolex PIAZZA VIA V. LUNGARNO GENERALE DIAZ MALENCHINI, A. S O D E I T I N T O R I C PIAZZA MENTANA VIA DI V.SCANDICCI DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA VIA DE BARDI E V I A A R N O L F O V VIA VIA TOSCANELLA Biblioteca Nazionale TORQUATO TASSO IA DEI VELLUTI VIALE DELLA GIOVINE ITALIA V I A A R E T I N A PIAZZA ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ V. SPRONE Giardini di Bellariva Centrale di Firenze DELL Santi Vito e Modesto SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA VIA DEI BE VIA DELLA CHIESA MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA VIA D'ARDIGLIONE A R N O PIAZZA V In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building V. M. MINGHETTI SANTO SPIRITO L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E V I A T R I P O L I VIA DE' GUICCIARDINI Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA VIA DELLA BELLARIVA VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRUCC. DEI PITT FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COSTA DEI MAGNO LUNG known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the D E B A R D I LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA V IA D E L F IL A R E T E C O ARNO TORRIGIANI Torre della Zecca ST Ponte VIA GAETANO PILATI V. DEL MADONNONE A SAN Palazzo VIA MAGGIO VIA TOSCANELLA alle Grazie Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO I Guadagni VIA DEL CAMPOFIORE LUNGARNO PECORI GIRALDI V I A G N VIA MAZZETTA I O of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. R N GIO LI L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O CASELLINA V. DEI PRETI V. MARSILI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO VIA VILLANI Ex monastero Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) PIAZZA O R LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA C P U C PIAZZA international customers, are genuinely unique pieces O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO San Felice D E B A R D I MOZZI of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique T in Piazza VIA DEI RENAI VIA DELLE CALDAIE Palazzo Pitti PIAZZA I E COSTA P GIUSEPPE Ponte it is also possiblePonte to purchase a selection of clothing items E L U N G A R N O C E L L I N I B E N V E N U T O San Niccolò Giovanni da Verrazzano L S POGGI I A Teatro Goldoni AN GIORGI V V I A R O M A N A S. Niccolò Sopr'Arno and accessories that complete the brand’s collections.

VIA DEL CASONE VIA DI SAN NICCOLO' Porta San Niccolò

VIA DEI SERRAGLI

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VIA

Ponte Vecchio, 29/r Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r www.angelacaputi.com

Giardino Corsi PIAZZA

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V. M O N A C H I V I A G I A M P A O L O O R S I N I

Forte di Belvedere PIAZZA

Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino DRESDA

VIA IPPOLITOVIA PINDEMONTE VIA DI BELVEDERE PIAZZALE VIA NICCOLO' DA UZZANO

Giardino di Boboli OLIN V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

VIA ERTA CANINA ERTA VIA MICHELANGELO Giardino dell'Iris PONTE A VARLUNGO

SAN NICCOLO’VIADEIB WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 O I www.wheretraveler.com 20 VIA RICORBOLI V I A C O L U C C I O S A L U T A T I 21

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V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

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VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made The best shopping have been used as accessories by famous television pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the capable of creating a look or dressing up any type workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and master goldsmiths have practised the ancient workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical 7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 of the Florentine goldsmithery art. • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm- 7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. 7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4

Map F4 Officine Panerai Annamaria Cammilli Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique it has been present with its creations in shop boasts a unique design and a strong identity that windows and display cases all over the world for Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for space on the first floor is devoted to special sales rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. watches from the historical Museum; on the ground www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. Aprosio T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and Stylish creates jewellery accessories and products for Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte creations and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s innovative, Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three elegant jewels are the perfect addition 055 210127. Map E2 display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped to the wish list of every woman. Cassetti 1926 customer care centre, where qualified Rolex Featuring a blend of art and fashion, In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the technicians are available to look after the precious her creations are characterized by a Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 continuously evolving creative process. studio that develops innovative projects with its Also known by the nickname Giuggiù, own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily Tiffany & Co. the Florentine designer has become a 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map Located in the luxury shopping street par byword across the globe. Her stunning F5 excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is creations have been showcased at Damiani plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion several of the most important museums Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and worldwide. The creative heart of Angela long goldsmithing tradition which it has always ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a Caputi’s bijoux is her workshop in iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary Oltrarno, located in the picturesque Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss- spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany. Florentine district. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- This season, the Italian jewelry designer in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and 7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. presents a collection whose elegance, Map C4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design. sobriety and rigorous shapes and Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 Vacheron Constantin Boutique colours reference a French-inspired In the unique and exclusive setting that is Dodo style. Called ‘Pied de poule’, the Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine Shoppers will find items of the best Italian SERVICES FOR A MORE The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by collection is characterized by unusual watchmaking design house in the world, founded and international brands. A large area PLEASANT SHOPPING Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique geometric shapes in which grey is paired is devoted to women’s fashion which collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm is also known for the tabernacle with a painting ► Customers’ Service Desk - Tax Free Service pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. with white and black. At the same time, of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that includes a vast and prestigious range in ► Currency Conversion Service these bijoux in synthetic resins can be www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the both classic fashions as well as the latest by Global Blue Currency Choice 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 interpreted as daring, unconventional Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control trends. Special attention is also given to ► Beauty consultant 2741573. Map E4 of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. Service available by appointment elements that break with tradition men’s wear where shoppers can choose Fani Gioielli www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte ► Shopping assistant on request because they play on strong contrasts Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 from formal attire to smart casual wear. Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, ► Dedicated international deliveries between ‘pied de poule’ and ‘a pois’ The constant arrival of new brands, unique Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery ► Free delivery inside the city (always in white and black) prints, and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of LEATHER commodities and the latest products exclusive for purchases of over 500 euros or highlight a detail of bright red sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of Cuoieria Fiorentina to Rinascente makes the store the focal point ► Free repairs on any item needing tailoring, interspersed with transparent geometric prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, except for products on sale Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition for your high-end shopping in the city. elements. www.angelacaputi.com ► All credit cards are accepted and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, >> www.rinascente.it Try the exclusive On Demand Service: the inimitable products are created with extreme care personal shopper who finds your favourite T: 055 292993. Map F4 de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; and top-quality natural materials. A vast range product in store and deliver it directly to your Via S. Spirito, 58/r. Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Massai Orafi of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories house. Now available also on WeChat. T: 055 212972. Map D4 Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, Piazza della Repubblica. T: + 39 3440081600

Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of offering excellent value for money. Another strong SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE T: 055 219113. [email protected]

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SHOPPING

to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2

The Merchant of Venice NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its RICHARD GINORI DR. VRANJES clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by See page 21. See this page. the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought- after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti. point is the personalization of the products, and the headquarters of the Florentine home com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements fragrance company founded and managed by Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485.

of customers, who can count Michelle Obama the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and Map D3 among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Maria. In addition to the traditional production Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the SHOES brand has diversified its production with linen, Aquazzura Gianni Chiarini cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by Established in the 1990s, this brand is the a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. combines a typically European refined aesthetic creation of contemporary bags and accessories, it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- sensibility with modern Latin American with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. and fashion insiders around the globe. www. of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map D4 Il Bisonte Map l3 Salvatore Ferragamo Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came La Ménagère Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in of around 1500 square metres that includes a company’s historic workshop since 1938 and Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully shop with design objects for the home, a florist, the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories right in the city centre, in the space that was men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. once occupied by the first Florentine household collections. The brand represents Italian The brand’s key focus is on materials, including item shop, it combines industrial and recycled quality, contemporary elegance, innovation its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after materials and design objects for a contemporary and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere. ground floor of the building, inside large spaces of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del 0750600. Map F1 of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some di Santa Maria Novella PASSION SHOPPING of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo. UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini AquaFlor in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. A perfume shop with the charm of past times, Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of Map E4 dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria of perfumes made using natural and rare raw Novella and has been open to the public for materials, personalisable through the choice of over four centuries (since 1612). Its products STATIONERY fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, Pineider parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am- all over the world in 75 single brand stores paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and 1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 and represent a production par excellence design are the distinctive features of this brand, 2343471. Map H5 on account of their quality raw materials and which is unique worldwide: from the printing of centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the Dr. Vranjes precious and embossed paper to articles made aid of modern technologies. The frescoed Home fragrances and elegant furnishing of fine leather, to elegant writing instruments. monumental environments - Sales Room, Green accessories made by hand in Florence for more www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. been returned to their former splendour thanks Map E3

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5674_VOV_WHERE_FLORENCE_207x277 - dicembre.indd 1 08/11/18 11:17 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

28 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 29 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be amidst little tables and large windows. Huge FOOD SHOPS stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Galanti It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after- Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. supper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2 or to take away. Wide selection of wines and T: 055 2344397. Map L3 home-made jams. Everything made with extra- Enoteca Bonatti Pugi virgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or 490359. Off Map particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- Giumella pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. VEGAN With recipes based on the products pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza T: 055 660050. Off Map of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat offers organic zero miles food, made the same 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Signorvino day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses WINE SHOPS applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats across the country. It also does simple quality or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri Caffè 19.26 food from the various regions. The terrace has a 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. T: 393 8221084. Off Map selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 Pegna With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3 STREET FOOD

All’Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen RADIOKAFKA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured Genuine food for all tastes meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around The Central Market, a genuine institution for lovers of good food, is frequented by tourists but also by Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri Florentines, who appreciate the quality and variety of what is on offer there. By Sophia Bertoli 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5 Cucciolo PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, here is it possible to taste Sicilian browse and buy in the usual way, you can also famed in the city for more than 40 years for its The perfect place specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina take a seat at the large convivial tables and enjoy “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, hamburgers, sushi, fresh pasta, one of the many specialities that are prepared dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. for a wine experience W Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe there on the spot. In a territory such as that of Immersed in the extraordinary Chianti landscape, the Cantina Antinori nel Chianti Classico bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, fried Florence, which is famous for the genuineness ramp in full sight before depositing them directly welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture and all the ancient know-how of the food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under and quality of its dishes, the aim has been to in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; Fri- Antinori Marquises. The family has been dedicated to producing wines for more than 600 one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, a protect consumers to the maximum: all the Sun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. years now, managing the activity directly with innovative choices, but always maintaining T: 055 287727. Map G3 temple of taste located right in the city centre operators at the Central Market are in fact traders an unchanged respect for the traditions and for the territory. About 45 minutes by car and housed on the first floor of the historic and artisans with a common passion for their Pescepane from Florence, this low environmental impact, high energy-saving structure overlooks the covered market of San Lorenzo, a magnificent profession who sign a quality specification FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried surrounding countryside where Sangiovese grapes are grown and is practically invisible example of iron and glass architecture built whereby all the dishes prepared inside the bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities from the outside, if not for two long horizontal “fissures” corresponding to the front of the of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The in 1874 from a design by architect Mengoni, market are cooked using only the raw materials construction. Here it is possible to experience delights of the senses by immersing yourself delicious and creative menu varies each day also the author of the nearby market of on sale at the market itself. The market also depending on the availability of ingredients, in an itinerary that is architectural, gustatory and emotional at the same time, revealing the Sant’Ambrogio and the famous Galleria Vittorio holds food and wine tasting courses, book using sustainable and high quality produce, often majesty of the wine cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. Emanuele in Milan. presentations and events of all kinds. organic, with vegetables of the season and home- Via Cassia per Siena, 133 (Loc. Bargino) - San Casciano Val di Pesa In this sort of modern “agora” for gourmets, made sauces. Apart from the great food there (25 km fromFlorence). T: 055 2359700. antinorichianticlassico.it

LEONARDO MASSAI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar

in addition to the craft shops where you can >> www.mercatocentrale.it ©

30 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. The “fiorentina” hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are T:055 2645429. Map D2 Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well Bordino Trattoria stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www. the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- Buca Mario relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with the most iconic dishes in Florence Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary cuisine. But be careful: to recognize A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. the original and tell it apart from the Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 hundreds of impostors, there are menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 a few tips you need to know. pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come with unwritten rules that the visitor rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, needs to know to avoid falling foul Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by of the restaurant owner, paying over fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, Cibrèo Ristorante the odds and to make sure they get freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the real thing. In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and from a specific cut of a young Chianina regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone cow, a part of the loin near the backbone fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie which has a T-bone in the middle. Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus It should be grilled at a very high seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, temperature, so that a fine crust forms fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with dish depends on the cooking: the meat Fashion and artistic cuisine combined 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. must be brown on the outside but red, www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not Da Burde 0804. Map L4 Coming about from the meeting between haute couture and fine cuisine is a unique tavern inside The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare. an exceptional location, run by an award-winning chef. By Chiara Zaccarelli the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by kgs, although bigger steaks are easily round a year ago Massimo Bottura, an from Italy to the Orient, passing through >> www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini available. And here is another sore point. Italian chef with three Michelin stars, Colombia, and then all over the world. Piazza della Signoria, 10. in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina who formerly ran the historic “Osteria The menu therefore benefits from all these T: 055 75927038. Map G4 Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go A fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via by weight. An average price to be sure of Francescana” in Modena, opened Gucci Osteria contaminations and offers cosmopolitan titbits at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people getting the real thing is around 50 euros da Massimo Bottura in Florence inside the such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- a kilo. IO Osteria Personale Gucci Garden, a new space for the Florentine steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still WITH. The traditional accompaniment is fashion design label. Located in the historic or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera usually cannellini beans, washed down Palazzo della Mercanzia, in addition to the fried aubergines in shiso sauce. But there are also surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few with a glass of Chianti. tavern, Gucci Garden also hosts a boutique of tortellini in cream of parmigiano reggiano cheese, modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera WHERE. Here are four restaurants where unique edition products, an auditorium and an of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative carciofi alla giudia, tongue with green sauce and restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. exhibition area. The creative liaison between Chianina hot dog. And for dessert? Remaining on way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy the theme of tradition revisited with tiramisù roll In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) is very much renowned for: fashion and fine cake or amarena cheesecake spheres, or you can seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ cuisine. Head of the team at the tavern is opt for the lighter mandarin Spritz sorbet. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar ristorante-perseus-firenze). Colombian chef Ana Karime Lopez Kondo, In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; (C.Z.) La Ménagère closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso wife of Bottura’s sous chef, Taka Kondo. In other the tones of green and pistachio and can A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 words: an explosive blend of flavours ranging welcome up to 35 diners indoors. combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì (although you can still request a private room for also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine 239 6616. Map F2 Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. PIZZA essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 O’Munaciello th above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Housed in a 17 -century monastery in the historic Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia dell’arte. Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can try other Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into traditional Campania dishes, with products from of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the small producers and consortiums situated along venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s live music dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via Maffia 31/r. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. T: 055 287198. Map D5 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Pizza Man La Leggenda dei Frati ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Buca San Giovanni but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional T: 055 0680545 restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special www.laleggendadeifrati.it Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and 2480200. Map H4 dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as Pizzaiuolo (Il) on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is in this case too draws its inspiration from the local typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. Bottega del Buon Caffè hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. but also for vegetables picked directly from the http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F2 tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, grains. Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Santarpia restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Ora d’Aria destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Via dei Georgofili 11/r Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the By Sophia Bertoli dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising T: 055 20016 9 past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from www.oradariaristorante.com serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft Borgo San Jacopo Enoteca Pinchiorri An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, beers or wines from small producers. €. c/o Hotel Lungarno Via Ghibellina, 87 We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 242757 he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 T: 055245829. Map L3 T: 055 281661 enotecapinchiorri.it throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that 2342864. Map H6 www.borgosanjacopo.com How do you manage to be honoured with impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants recipes but tending towards a more creative CANTINE Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can Antica Mescita San Niccolò In this case the winning recipe is one that blends it comes from the winning combination of prime delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post an example of this), all washed down with wines tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is labels, along with others that are little known but labels and a highly select menu of beers. also reflects the season and the local territory, with unmissable) or à la carte. equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Winter Garden by Caino bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just Bottega del Buon Caffè Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a c/o Hotel Saint Regis a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r delight for the senses. Piazza Ognissanti, 1 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 T: 055 5535677 T: 055 27163770 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Il Palagio www.wintergardenbycaino.com Buca Lapi Zero food miles products gathered from the organic c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in Borgo Pinti, 99 Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local T: 055 2626450 Caino has come about from the creative liaison Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of www.ilpalagioristorante.it between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef environment with tables both indoors and great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary way, with elements from every part of the globe, dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs proposal that looks to the Italian and regional ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 BUCA LAPI tasting menus include gems such as amberjack of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly Buca Mario This is one of the characteristic Florentine restaurants known as “buche”, which were once the home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with wine cellars of ancient buildings, and has its origins in 1880 in the Palazzo Antinori. Today it still thyme. of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times and the taste buds. famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca offers a flavour of the great dishes of the Tuscan tradition to taste in a truly charming setting. Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine

34 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan Se•Sto on Arno seasonal products from the estate or the nearby occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it offers international dishes. Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. moves poolside to the winter garden. www.westinflorence.com Ristorante La Loggia Local flavours and seasonal products for a Il Palagio Relais Le Jardin c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze c/o Hotel Regency Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.belmond.com of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines www.ilpalagioristorante.it www.regency-hotel.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge visit just for its magnificent position looking over sweeping picture windows that make the most of and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic the unique position and breathtaking view over whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Italian dishes. the city. tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Villa La Vedetta with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa c/o Villa La Vedetta types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze www.villalavedettahotel.com The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia highest quality. Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants Just moments away from the Piazzale Hostaria Bibendum and Trattoria al fresco. in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking Ristorante La Chiostrina famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Irene c/o Bernini Palace of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, destinations to whet your appetite Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.roccofortehotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian in several top hotels in Florence. www.goldentowerhotel.it Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are options too. th By Jasmine Piazza The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of building with an extraordinary collection of art 16 -century portico. The menu draws on the most flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes. Winter Garden by Caino card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef c/o The Saint Regis Florence ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local www.wintergardenbycaino.com Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and seasonal products. Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the c/o Hotel Lungarno Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o JK Place Firenze out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.jkplace.com menu shines an innovative spotlight on the is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Tuscan specialities reinterpreted in a contemporary Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using vein. A temple of flavours in the sophisticated local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the and lampredotto to more refined proposals from a cantina of 900 labels. and restored to its former splendour. terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both Capriccio Restaurant Hostaria Bibendum La Cucina del Salviatino eyes and palate, in particular their original take on c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid c/o Helvetia & Bristol c/o Il Salviatino tiramisù. Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.montebellosplendid.com www.starhotelscollezione.com www.salviatino.com The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with Il Conventino a Marignolle out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality a penchant for local producers and ingredients. links to the local territory and the seasons, with a products and absolute freshness for a couple’s Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no candlelight dinner or a special event. fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero Flora & Fauno and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- food miles. c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with Le Bistrot www.hotelvillesullarno.com Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. c/o Villa Cora Facing the river and immersed in the lovely Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno Il Conventino a Marignolle www.villacora.it offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes times sticking to tradition. vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Il Palagio

36 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 37 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings one of the most important sculptural cycles in the created between the 17th and 19th centuries and Elena Peverata world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Lifestyle & Culture David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, Editor dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5 Where® Italia Palazzo Vecchio Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat The symbol of wealth and power, the building of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one maximum splendour, then by the Habsburg- of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy ATTRACTIONS imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of family. The original architecture dates back to the its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first & MONUMENTS make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the Duomo and Cupola www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. take their name; they are one of the most important Ponte Vecchio Today the religious building, whose official name is examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are There has been a bridge at this point of the River “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms considered a genuine open-air museum on account Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s of their admirable architectural and landscaped between floods and reconstructions, the official date Cathedral in London. The most important artists of layout and their collection of sculptures, attracting of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as the period participated in its creation (the bell tower approximately 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble they are the site of four different museums: the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery who used the river to dispose of their waste in a Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it symbol known all over the world: it is possible to Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/ and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Map E6 history, on prominent display on the bridge is a Battistero bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith Piazzale Michelangelo Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with building that completes the considerably striking Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via its views seen all over the world in million of appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 postcards and reproductions. The design of the but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. square dates back to 1869, when Florence was Corridoio Vasariano It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow The outside is decorated with white marble from Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to passage the entrance to which is at the beginning Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni’s courtyard of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. A new museum is born www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San FIRENZECARD For a few months now Florence has had a new, prestigious location devoted to modern and Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Campanile di Giotto contemporary art, Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni. By Elena Peverata 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of his Renaissance architectural took place throughout the 20th century, the four main components of the complex of Santa masterpiece by Baccio d’Agnolo is including important pieces by Fattori, Boldini, Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with located in the very central Piazza Santa Balla, Viani, Sironi, Severini, Marini, Morandi, white, red and green marble, like that adorning the T Cathedral, the majestic square-based bell tower, Trinita, a stone’s throw from Palazzo Strozzi de Chirico, Savinio, Prampolini, Casorati, Magnelli, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing and Palazzo Spini Feroni – where the Salvatore Licini, Picasso, Leger, Soutine, Klee, Chagall, Ernst, no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you Ferragamo Museum is housed – along the elegant Kandinsky, Hartung, Matta, Fautrier, Vedova, can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. Via Tornabuoni. The carefully restored ancient Capogrossi, Burri, Klee, Fontana, Manzoni and www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. residence, in a space situated on the main floor, many more besides. The exhibition “From the T: 055 2302885. Map F3 welcomes a selection of the works that Roberto early 20th century to the 1960s”, with which Piazza della Signoria Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from Casamonti, founder of the Tornabuoni Gallery the activities of the new museum space have This is the central square of Florence, the seat of the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one and collector of international renown – has been launched, is currently visitable and will civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: is located at the centre of medieval Florence south gathered together in his long years of activity in be until March 2019, when it will be followed of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the art world to form the core of his collection. by the display of the second main group of the Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the Firenzecard circuit The paintings and sculptures on display are the Collection focusing on Italian and foreign art the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio • Priority access to museums without needing to book result of years of passionate research that have between 1960 and the present day. (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the • 72 hours available Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and given rise to a collection capable of representing www.firenzecard.it Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent the exceptional historical-artistic evolution that >> www.collezionecasamonti.com Giorgio de Chirico, “Ettore e Andromaca” 38 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7 appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors 055 210030. Map D5 Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, San Miniato al Monte San Lorenzo his great masterpieces here and the French writer 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Palazzo Pitti Museums Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1 Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, that has been known since then as the “Stendhal Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana a medieval religious building situated at one of the syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San highest panoramic points in Florence. The most sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples spectacular access is gained via the monumental and for this reason was celebrated by the Italian fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for romantic poet Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at those with problems walking). The outside of the glories”. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, is the result of the last major reconstruction work the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry church is decorated with green and white marble, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4 that took place in the 15th century at the wishes typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th- of the Medici and under the direction of the great is gained by ascending the monumental staircase century mosaic decorates the central part of the Santa Maria Novella architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo was intended to receive a rich marble decoration Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the original floors. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dates back to the end of the 13th century but work also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly on it continued for centuries, so the church, with expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana. miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, Mercato Centrale its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Built at the end of the 19th century in the period harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance 214042. Map F2 Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library Market is a building of a certain architectural merit exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, MUSEUMS & €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio 055 2937911. Map F2 via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale. and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - EXHIBITION SITES Cappella Brancacci The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Basilica di San Lorenzo The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Map D2-E2 Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market Santo Spirito the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is SHUTTERSTOCK.COM there has been a complex containing dozens of small Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa current appearance of which is the result of the universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and and this has now become a point of reference for point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they PHOTO © informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines church has given its name to the entire surrounding conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, were left unfinished and were eventually completed and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. “Oltrarno”, that is, on the left bank of the river. and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum A palace for three dynasties, the Picture Gallery, established between is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy T: 055 2399798. Map F1 A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You this extraordinary building (see the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Attractions&Monuments) is located in the family, includes the world’s largest Santa Croce and conserves elegant and austere rationality in (which form a separate museum, see the relative Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The concentration of works by Raphael, as and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed- famous Boboli Gardens, which are the well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione park of the palace, a genuine open-air Caravaggio and Rubens. 1.30pm-5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: 558-2382195. Map C5 take their name from this hill. Palazzo Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. Pitti currently contains four different Today the sumptuous environments that Cappelle Medicee operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo museums. were once the residence of the Lorena 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2 Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with family house paintings and sculptures, Basilica di Santa Croce that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), part (see entry). The museum consists of the New floor and mezzanine) 1930s, with an important group of paintings it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its Conserved in what were the summer by the Macchiaioli school. and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using apartments of the Medici family are and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: Museum of Fashion and Costume itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the vases made of semi-precious stones, (Palazzina della Meridiana) sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the This museum possesses a stock of six Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument exceptional collection of Oriental thousand items, including ancient clothing, Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty. (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello (The The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of porcelains; there is also the silverware of theatrical costumes and fashion accessories Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an from the 18th century to today, in addition Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April important collection of jewels created to underwear, jewels and costume by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th between the 17th and 20th centuries, jewellery. Included among the costumes 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €8. www. and a significant section dedicated to are the 16th-century burial clothes of

DFLC PRINTS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM December. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | contemporary jewellery. Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna their son. 2466105. Map I5 degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 Palatine Gallery and Monumental PHOTO © Biblioteca Marucelliana Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia Apartments (noble floor) Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on SUNDAY AT THE MUSEUM A precious archive of rare pieces established In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot Every first Sunday of the month (in December, on Sunday 2) over 480 museums, galleries, back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last monuments, archeological sites, parks and gardens across Italy will open their doors to blend of styles telling of the daily lives Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The the public freee of charge, for a day dedicated to discovering national cultural heritage. An magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea and tastes of the various periods and palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. unmissable opportunity to get your fill of beauty. www.beniculturali.it/domenicalmuseo during opening hours or with a guided visit (by del Castagno and paintings from the monastery families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, T: 055 294883. booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, are also on display in the museum. Open daily

40 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone Museo Giardini di Boboli beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610. Forte di Belvedere ® offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Off Map At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici by Where Italia commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a villa www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima responsible for designing their layout, creating Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 the model of the Italian-style garden that was to private architecture of the Renaissance and a court. Despite its strategic position, it was never become an example for many European courts. ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently Museo del Bigallo dynamic cultural centre that hosts international used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, The headquarters of two ancient benevolent working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities. level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the created in the underground floors to house the state adorned with grottos - including the famous institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which the café and the museum shop, which looks out f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. open-air museum. The terraced area includes the was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful performances, contemporary art installations and Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum Galleria degli Uffizi houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Closed of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and first and last Monday of the month. Closed 1 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 second floors of the large building erected between January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: Fondazione Salvatore Romano it is one of the most famous museums in the world Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. 055 23885. Map E6 The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3 Museo Nazionale del Bargello of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is to the modern age). The collections of paintings This imposing building, built between the 13th and Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure recalled by the imposing fourteenth-century fresco from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the An elegant collection of works made of semi- by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, a number of absolute masterpieces of the art Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 precious stones and multi-coloured marble and with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone works donated to the Municipality of Florence in Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, important collection of Renaissance sculptures, samples. The works are displayed in chronological 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of are also important collections by German, Dutch Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and architectural decoration, detached frescos and and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, THE MAP CAN BE PURCHASED IN TWO FORMATS. holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli furnishings of various origins and from periods and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics 140X100cm or 70X100cm. €100 + courier costs Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei. century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- Museo di Palazzo Vecchio beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, [email protected] from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 of the church. The museum is contained entirely December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Museo Novecento his private collection to Florence, where it was the world, are a single large open-air museum, and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly a unique combination of art, faith and history Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) located in the city’s main square, the religious, August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. routes are rooms and private environments of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the sumptuously decorated by some of the most Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous around 300 works representing that unrepeatable and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the that of the 18th century, with a major presence of "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August international cultural scene. Structured in reverse works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s originally two convents, are works coming from the century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. the convents themselves, which were abolished in workstations, sound devices and video rooms Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. www. the monuments are different and vary depending on Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or along with the works themselves. From 1 October museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 the day. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and to 31 March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6 Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della musical instruments of the courts of the Medici Thurs 11am-2pm. Full ticket price: €8.50. www. Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10. Orsanmichele Villa Bardini and Gardens T: 055 286132/055 217158. A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil The most beautiful view of Florence earned it 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, Museo di Santa Maria Novella Map D3 and religious functions are combined. Built as a the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8 The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated place rich in history, art and culture, has become (from January 2019: full ticket price €12). www. 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Museo degli Innocenti Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale year it organises exhibitions that investigate the centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance relationship between fashion and art. The museum sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the being restructured). In addition, there is also a rare examples of the Florentine painting of the architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which museum on the first floor. On the second floor you Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition it continues its function as the “Institute of the headquarters for his company and his workshop Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Museum kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am- vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. of Sculptures (first and second floor): open Mon 7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www. (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am-12.30). Free entry. www. Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/orsanmichele. 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4 Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). Full ticket price open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year Detail of the “desco da parto” (a painted tondo offered to women who have recently given birth) €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. Museo Stefano Bardini depicting the Judgment of Paris by the Master of the Judgement of Paris (circa 1435), Santa Maria del Fiore www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria conserved at the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE BARGELLO. Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7 www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout

42 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; to enter. from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer The museum city near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices www.aeroporto.firenze.it Tourist Information Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 www.firenzeturismo.it S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s the tram: the ticket must be validated using the purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord and sales point for Firenzecard. machines on the bus. alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free F Can be used on buses, trams or trains. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). Firenzecard. Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola 5650555). fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. events, opening times of museums, how to tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or Electric buses move around the historic centre 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on have them book for you at your hotel). You should 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, is convenient for visiting the most important Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. museums in Florence. ask for information in any language, including 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains early bird then that could give you a significant The entire historic centre of Florence (which is (answers within 24 hours). strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the advantage. (E.B.) approximately the part located within the 19th-

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Museo delle Porcellane Camping O L ALD M.CECC M V. R. DA MANDELLO 46 WHERE FLORENCE I DECEMBER 2018 80km Palazzo Pitti www.wheretraveler.com 47 I V. M A R S U P P I N I PIAZZA ONT LARGO A R E Z Z I V S A I V ▼ A I F L E D A L I F A I V A K A I V

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5 STAR Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Map G4 • Map H2 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 • Off Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Map • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Grand Hotel Minerva (S) – Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 16 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

DECEMBER 2018 10 • Off Map Off Map ®

Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE 4 STAR Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r AC Hotel Firenze – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map • Map C2 R www.manetmobile.com WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION/WHERE-FLORENCE oyal ALL YOU CAN DO SIGHTSEEINGB IN THE CITY abies | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENTAll the Nativity |Scenes MAPS in Florence’s museums [email protected]

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