Shifting Landscape
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WWDBerlinPreviewSECTION II Shifting LandScape Lots of changes are on tap in show venues, as well as the approach to business in a difficult economy, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin gets set for its stage July 4 to 6. MBFWB tents have moved to Siegessäule, or “Victory Column.” Scene: eat, Drink, Shop, GaLLe ry- hop Ones to Watch Seven hip neW retaiLerS hillig matti by photo w19b001a;11.indd 1 6/18/12 3:25 PM 06182012152650 2 WWD Tuesday, June 19, 2012 SECTION II WWD.COM wwd Berlin Preview/Scene For more, see WWD.com/eye. with smoked Scamorza cheese (about 6 to 14 euros, or $7.50 to $17.50), and the frozen tomato starter melds gazpacho and granita (3 euros, or $3.75). A smooth and not overly sweet demi-tasse of hot chocolate made with water is a revela- illig tion, and a good replacement for espres- h so — morning or night (3 euros, or $3.75). There’s also a mini-section of take- Play It Out Matti by away sweets, offering international Places to eat, drink, shop and gallery-hop between shows. Long March Canteen fair trade chocolate, artisanal Swedish photo licorice, and of course Bitterveld’s own caded door, wild graffiti, and, currently, blended bars, including Fruchtziege, scaffolding. But inside, the food doesn’t which includes goat milk powder, blood mess around. This sister restaurant to orange essence and a pinch of salt, and dumpling spot Yumcha Heroes offers Peffernuss, which combines walnut nou- some of the same dishes, but adds the gat and Tellicherry peppercorns. — S.S. mix-and-match fun of choosing cold dish- es a la carte — and from a cart. Friendly Bitterveld wait-staff wheel an array of small plates, 3 Lettestrasse, 10437 including succulent seared tuna with red Web: bitterveld.de; [email protected] beets and edamame, honey-glazed spare Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and ribs, silken tofu with thousand-year-old Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m, Thursday to eggs and preserved vegetables and jelly- Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. fish carpaccio. Cold dishes run 5 to 9.50 euros, or about $6 to $12. Warm dishes supplement the cart’s in- stant gratifications — crispy tofu with salt, chili, garlic and Thai basil, grilled baby squid, pork belly with baby asparagus and Peking duck. Hot dishes range from 6 to 15 euros, or about $7.50 to $19. Dumplings are available baked, steamed, or in soup, in a wide variety of fillings — meat, fish, and vegetable (4.50 to 7 euros, or about $6 to $9). Finish the meal with a chocolate Illustrations by Olaf Hajek from “Black Antoinette.” version dressed with cinnamon and va- nilla sauce (5.50 euros, or about $7). BACK BEAT ART & COMMERCE The interior, designed by Ett la Benn Taro Fujita wants to put a new spin on “Black Antoinette,” the second monograph — the team behind many of Berlin’s Japanese cuisine in Berlin. The club by Berlin’s internationally active illustra- best-dressed restaurants — plays with and restaurant owner, who has hot spots tor Olaf Hajek, is a cornucopia of beauties Sino-kitsch, but the open ceilings, fam- in Tokyo and Ibiza, was drawn to Berlin and beasts, flora and fantasy, and multicul- ily-style long tables, industrial lamps for its music. He kept importing DJs tural crossovers and contradictions. and chopstick dispensers keep every- from the German capital to play in his The book also spans the worlds of art thing on track. — S.S. clubs, and they kept asking him why he and commerce, Hajek’s signature “mag- didn’t open a restaurant in Berlin. Ula ical realism” as much in evidence in his Long March Canteen “Rue Aubriot, Berlin was the result — a lounge-y spot advertising and editorial assignments 20 Wrangelstrasse, 10997 (Kreuzberg) French Vogue,” on a quiet neighborhood corner in Mitte for the likes of Montblanc, Universal Tel.: +49-178-88-49-599 by Helmut that blends tastes of Japan and Europe. Music, Design Hotels, the New York Web: longmarchcanteen.com; info@ Newton, 1975. Ula, which means “back” or “behind” Times Book Review, Rolling Stone and longmarchcanteen.com in Japanese, is a bit off the beaten path, Vogue Japan, as in his growing oeuvre Hours: Daily, 6 p.m. to midnight but on any given night, some of Berlin’s for art galleries and collectors. The 144- BODY WORK top turntable talents might be dining page, full-color tome from Berlin pub- Should all the clothes to be seen on the there. Photographs of Japanese tattoo lishing house Gestalten launches July 5 MBFWB runway and Berlin’s multiple art is on display in a downstairs gallery. during Berlin Fashion Week. Bitterveld trade fairs begin to blur one’s vision, two Menu remixes include Wagyu beef As for the title’s Black Antoinettes, shows of monumental nudes by two mas- and foie gras nigiri (18 euros, or $22), ses- Hajek, a frequent visitor to South Africa ters of the genre — Helmut Newton and ame-roasted tuna with wasabi mashed who also had his first gallery show there, Ralph Gibson — can provide an antidote. potatoes and miso-balsamic sauce (21 sees them as “symbols of power and The Museum of Photography is focus- euros, or $26), and a lighter-than-air beauty, and the pride of African culture.” ing on Newton’s first three legendary green tea cheesecake (8 euros, or $10). On the commercial front, Hajek’s publications: “White Women,” “Sleepless Special dishes take advantage of season- projects also include a fabric pattern Nights” and “Big Nudes,” which include al regional specialties, such as spring’s he designed for the Swedish brand many of his most iconic works. In “White white asparagus. Ula also features Minimarket, wallpapers for Vienna’s 25 Women” (1976), Newton used nudity with- Aburi-sushi, a lesser-known preparation Hour Hotel and an animation of his im- in the visual world of fashion. “Sleepless that involves lightly broiling the fish to ages for TV Globo Brazil. Nights” (1978) is again all about women, give it a hybrid raw-cooked texture. “All my commercial work is influenced their bodies and their clothes, and for the Pair them with a wasabi Bloody Mary by my artwork, because I do show my art first time in this exhibition, one can see (10.50 euros, or $13) or the sake-based to clients, prompting ideas,” he noted. three smaller series of images of half- Ula cocktail (11 euros, or $14) or a stiff If there is a split between the worlds, naked models in orthopedic body braces. Japanese Whiskey — Suntory Yamazaki he suggested it has more to do with size “Big Nudes” (1981) with its larger-than- 12Y and Nikka Yoichi 10Y are avail- than style. “Plus, my art is more paint- life Amazons, brought Newton’s naked able (15.50 and 16 euros, respectively, erly and focused on a different composi- vision to a new dimension and has never or about $19 and $20). Several premium tion. In today’s world of illustration, I’m been out of print. sakes are also on offer to match any one of the only people still working as In comparison, Camera Work’s Ralph mood or food. — SuSaN StoNe a painter and not digitally,” he added. Gibson solo show encompasses four de- “It’s a question of generation. I wasn’t cades and more than 60 photographs of Ula Berlin educated on the computer. But having the photographer, now 73. On view are 8 Anklamer Strasse, 10115 (Mitte) original work helps me take the step mystic-surrealistic images from “The Tel.: +49-0-30-8937-9570 reservation@ into doing more art.” — meliSSa Drier BITTER SWEET Somnambulist” series (1970) to the ula-berlin.com, Open daily from 6 p.m. Chocolate purist Holger in’t Veld, author subtle eroticism of another Seventies Black Antoinette, Gestalten Space, of the book “Chocolate Rebels,” which series, “Days at Sea,” to some of his Sophie-Gips-Höfe reveals the ugly side of the global cocoa most recent nudes. “I love photograph- 21 Sophienstrasse, 10178 (Mitte) business, could have been bitter about the ing women and could say that the form Web: gestalten.com closing of his namesake Berlin chocolate of the female body is absolute and per- Hours: Opening July 5, 6 to 9 p.m. shops in 2010. Instead, he got creative. fect,” he once said. — Norma QuiNto July 5 to Aug. 5: Sunday to Friday, noon His new venture is Bitterveld, a com- to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. bination cafe and shop that offers a les- Helmut Newton Foundation, Museum of son in cocoa culture and crafted cuisine, Photography AT JOURNEY’S END with an accent on fair trade, organic 2 Jebenstrasse, 10623 (Charlottenburg) Finding the Long March Canteen might ingredients and innovation. Salmon is Tel.: +49-30-3186-4856, feel like a trek or even a trick — the dim marinated in chocolate and lime, veal Web: helmutnewton.com Ula Berlin sum spot is somewhat hidden behind its and pasta are matched with apricot and Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 playful exterior, including a faux-barri- fennel. A mint and pea risotto is strewn p.m.; Thursday until 10 p.m. w19b002a;13.indd 2 6/18/12 3:50 PM 06182012155107 Form follows perfection. The new CLS Shooting Brake and Joan Smalls captured by Mario Testino. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD Berlin PrevieW Blame’s Sarah Büren and Sonja Hodzode.