WWDBerlinPreviewSECTION II Shifting LandScape Lots of changes are on tap in show venues, as well as the approach to business in a difficult economy, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin gets set for its stage July 4 to 6.

MBFWB tents have moved to Siegessäule, or “Victory Column.” Scene: eat, Drink, Shop, GaLLe ry- hop Ones to Watch Seven hip neW retaiLerS hillig matti photo by

w19b001a;11.indd 1 6/18/12 3:25 PM 06182012152650 2 WWD Tuesday, June 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

wwd Berlin Preview/Scene For more, see

WWD.com/eye. with smoked Scamorza cheese (about 6 to 14 euros, or $7.50 to $17.50), and the frozen tomato starter melds gazpacho and granita (3 euros, or $3.75). A smooth and not overly sweet demi-tasse of hot chocolate made with water is a revela-

illig tion, and a good replacement for espres- h so — morning or night (3 euros, or $3.75). There’s also a mini-section of take- Play It Out Matti away sweets, offering international Places to eat, drink, shop and gallery-hop between shows. Long March Canteen fair trade chocolate, artisanal Swedish

photo by licorice, and of course Bitterveld’s own caded door, wild graffiti, and, currently, blended bars, including Fruchtziege, scaffolding. But inside, the food doesn’t which includes goat milk powder, blood mess around. This sister restaurant to orange essence and a pinch of salt, and dumpling spot Yumcha Heroes offers Peffernuss, which combines walnut nou- some of the same dishes, but adds the gat and Tellicherry peppercorns. — S.S. mix-and-match fun of choosing cold dish- es a la carte — and from a cart. Friendly Bitterveld wait-staff wheel an array of small plates, 3 Lettestrasse, 10437 including succulent seared tuna with red Web: bitterveld.de; [email protected] beets and edamame, honey-glazed spare Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and ribs, silken tofu with thousand-year-old Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m, Thursday to eggs and preserved vegetables and jelly- Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. fish carpaccio. Cold dishes run 5 to 9.50 euros, or about $6 to $12. Warm dishes supplement the cart’s in- stant gratifications — crispy tofu with salt, chili, garlic and Thai basil, grilled baby squid, pork belly with baby asparagus and Peking duck. Hot dishes range from 6 to 15 euros, or about $7.50 to $19. Dumplings are available baked, steamed, or in soup, in a wide variety of fillings — meat, fish, and vegetable (4.50 to 7 euros, or about $6 to $9). Finish the meal with a chocolate Illustrations by Olaf Hajek from “Black Antoinette.” version dressed with cinnamon and va- nilla sauce (5.50 euros, or about $7). BACK BEAT ART & COMMERCE The interior, designed by Ett la Benn Taro Fujita wants to put a new spin on “Black Antoinette,” the second monograph — the team behind many of Berlin’s Japanese cuisine in Berlin. The club by Berlin’s internationally active illustra- best-dressed restaurants — plays with and restaurant owner, who has hot spots tor Olaf Hajek, is a cornucopia of beauties Sino-kitsch, but the open ceilings, fam- in Tokyo and Ibiza, was drawn to Berlin and beasts, flora and fantasy, and multicul- ily-style long tables, industrial lamps for its music. He kept importing DJs tural crossovers and contradictions. and chopstick dispensers keep every- from the German capital to play in his The book also spans the worlds of art thing on track. — S.S. clubs, and they kept asking him why he and commerce, Hajek’s signature “mag- didn’t open a restaurant in Berlin. Ula ical realism” as much in evidence in his Long March Canteen “Rue Aubriot, Berlin was the result — a lounge-y spot advertising and editorial assignments 20 Wrangelstrasse, 10997 (Kreuzberg) French Vogue,” on a quiet neighborhood corner in Mitte for the likes of Montblanc, Universal Tel.: +49-178-88-49-599 by Helmut that blends tastes of Japan and Europe. Music, Design Hotels, the New York Web: longmarchcanteen.com; info@ Newton, 1975. Ula, which means “back” or “behind” Times Book Review, Rolling Stone and longmarchcanteen.com in Japanese, is a bit off the beaten path, Vogue Japan, as in his growing oeuvre Hours: Daily, 6 p.m. to midnight but on any given night, some of Berlin’s for art galleries and collectors. The 144- BODY WORK top turntable talents might be dining page, full-color tome from Berlin pub- Should all the clothes to be seen on the there. Photographs of Japanese tattoo lishing house Gestalten launches July 5 MBFWB runway and Berlin’s multiple art is on display in a downstairs gallery. during Berlin Fashion Week. Bitterveld trade fairs begin to blur one’s vision, two Menu remixes include Wagyu beef As for the title’s Black Antoinettes, shows of monumental nudes by two mas- and foie gras nigiri (18 euros, or $22), ses- Hajek, a frequent visitor to South Africa ters of the genre — Helmut Newton and ame-roasted tuna with wasabi mashed who also had his first gallery show there, Ralph Gibson — can provide an antidote. potatoes and miso-balsamic sauce (21 sees them as “symbols of power and The Museum of Photography is focus- euros, or $26), and a lighter-than-air beauty, and the pride of African culture.” ing on Newton’s first three legendary green tea cheesecake (8 euros, or $10). On the commercial front, Hajek’s publications: “White Women,” “Sleepless Special dishes take advantage of season- projects also include a fabric pattern Nights” and “Big Nudes,” which include al regional specialties, such as spring’s he designed for the Swedish brand many of his most iconic works. In “White white asparagus. Ula also features Minimarket, wallpapers for Vienna’s 25 Women” (1976), Newton used nudity with- Aburi-sushi, a lesser-known preparation Hour Hotel and an animation of his im- in the visual world of fashion. “Sleepless that involves lightly broiling the fish to ages for TV Globo Brazil. Nights” (1978) is again all about women, give it a hybrid raw-cooked texture. “All my commercial work is influenced their bodies and their clothes, and for the Pair them with a wasabi Bloody Mary by my artwork, because I do show my art first time in this exhibition, one can see (10.50 euros, or $13) or the sake-based to clients, prompting ideas,” he noted. three smaller series of images of half- Ula cocktail (11 euros, or $14) or a stiff If there is a split between the worlds, naked models in orthopedic body braces. Japanese Whiskey — Suntory Yamazaki he suggested it has more to do with size “Big Nudes” (1981) with its larger-than- 12Y and Nikka Yoichi 10Y are avail- than style. “Plus, my art is more paint- life Amazons, brought Newton’s naked able (15.50 and 16 euros, respectively, erly and focused on a different composi- vision to a new dimension and has never or about $19 and $20). Several premium tion. In today’s world of illustration, I’m been out of print. sakes are also on offer to match any one of the only people still working as In comparison, Camera Work’s Ralph mood or food. — SuSaN StoNe a painter and not digitally,” he added. Gibson solo show encompasses four de- “It’s a question of generation. I wasn’t cades and more than 60 photographs of Ula Berlin educated on the computer. But having the photographer, now 73. On view are 8 Anklamer Strasse, 10115 (Mitte) original work helps me take the step mystic-surrealistic images from “The Tel.: +49-0-30-8937-9570 reservation@ into doing more art.” — meliSSa Drier BITTER SWEET Somnambulist” series (1970) to the ula-berlin.com, Open daily from 6 p.m. Chocolate purist Holger in’t Veld, author subtle eroticism of another Seventies Black Antoinette, Gestalten Space, of the book “Chocolate Rebels,” which series, “Days at Sea,” to some of his Sophie-Gips-Höfe reveals the ugly side of the global cocoa most recent nudes. “I love photograph- 21 Sophienstrasse, 10178 (Mitte) business, could have been bitter about the ing women and could say that the form Web: gestalten.com closing of his namesake Berlin chocolate of the female body is absolute and per- Hours: Opening July 5, 6 to 9 p.m. shops in 2010. Instead, he got creative. fect,” he once said. — Norma QuiNto July 5 to Aug. 5: Sunday to Friday, noon His new venture is Bitterveld, a com- to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. bination cafe and shop that offers a les- Helmut Newton Foundation, Museum of son in cocoa culture and crafted cuisine, Photography AT JOURNEY’S END with an accent on fair trade, organic 2 Jebenstrasse, 10623 (Charlottenburg) Finding the Long March Canteen might ingredients and innovation. Salmon is Tel.: +49-30-3186-4856, feel like a trek or even a trick — the dim marinated in chocolate and lime, veal Web: helmutnewton.com Ula Berlin sum spot is somewhat hidden behind its and pasta are matched with apricot and Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 playful exterior, including a faux-barri- fennel. A mint and pea risotto is strewn p.m.; Thursday until 10 p.m.

w19b002a;13.indd 2 6/18/12 3:50 PM 06182012155107 Form follows perfection.

The new CLS Shooting Brake and Joan Smalls captured by Mario Testino. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Berlin PrevieW Blame’s Sarah Büren and Sonja Hodzode. Ones to Watch A few fresh faces to look for during Berlin Fashion Week.

ON THE ROAD knit mini shorts redefine HotPants. Yujia Zhai-Petrow designs her Sporty touches like waffle-weave 1913Berlin collection for metropolitan sleeves, crewnecks and sweatshirt-style nomads like herself. The Berlin-based V-inserts were regular features of the designer was born in western China, fall line, relaxed and refined in neutrals on the ancient Silk Road, but it was (taupe, black, gray, tan) punched up with cashmere and creativity that helped orange, purple and violet — intended for weave her career. the on-the-go urbanite. Zhai-Petrow’s home region, For spring, Zhai-Petrow is taking Xianjing, is one of China’s most inspiration from another sort of diverse, home to many ethnicities traveler — a 19th-century Victorian — and cultures. Zhai-Petrow remembers in her studio presentation at MBFWB. being fascinated with the colorful Narrow dresses with long trains will handcrafted clothing and high boots be paired with cropped lightweight but tweaked. For instance, next fall’s FAULT LINES of the area’s tribes, as well as the jackets in intarsia prints, matched sleeveless cowl-necked dress has a top Sarah Büren and Sonja Hodzode, work of her father, an accomplished with oversize bags. Gossamer T-shirts with a soft geometric V-shape that meets designers of Blame, can’t be faulted oil painter, who encouraged her of superfine cashmere meet short a wider waistband, a full (but not too for their witty approach to fashion, creativity. Her love of beauty was double-breasted blazers; colors for full) skirt falling in easy folds below. Or a which garnered them this winter’s invigorated by living and studying in men and women will include antique typical, no-fuss look for going out features Premium Young Designers Award some of the world’s top cities, such as gold, navy, light gray, grass green, a white lace tank top paired with pleated for women’s wear, and a finalist spot Hong Kong and Paris, and refining her rusty pink and black. brown silk pants with a bow sash. in the current Berlin Senate’s “Start skills at New York’s Fashion Institute Zhai-Petrow wants the collection A quote on the wall sets the tone Your Fashion Business” competition. of Technology and London’s Central to embody the spirit of adventure — for their upcoming spring collection: The two met in 2001 in the fashion Saint Martins. Her background journeying from West to East — “The excitement of flirtation lies design program of Trier University includes fine art and fashion. fine-tuned through the lens of in the unexpected.” This translates of Applied Sciences but went their American sportswear. into soft silks and laces teamed with separate ways after their studies. Retail prices for 1913Berlin start at leather and matte surfaces with shine, Hodzode went to Hugo Boss, Marc 150 euros, or about $187, for accessories “but it’s all still simple and fairly Jacobs and Michalsky, with a stop at New like scarves and hats; cashmere T-shirts minimal,” Sinewe commented. York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, and easy tops run 220 to 350 euros ($274 The collection is entirely produced and Büren headed to Sinha-Stanic, to $435), cardigans 380 to 700 euros in Saxony, though Westphal said “when Preen and into fashion trend forecasting. ($474 to $872) and coats 1,200 to 3,000 we produce more, it’s clear we’ll have “We really had to dream for a long euros ($1,500 to $3,740). The company’s to leave Germany. Too many contractors time to have our own label,” said fall collection will hit boutiques are closing down.” Hodzode, somewhat wistfully. They including Paris’ The Space and Berlin’s And expansion is now in even bought fabric during their time Oukan at the end of July and in early Hoogstraat’s game plan. Carried in 20 at Trier in 2003, but they weren’t quite August. — SuSan Stone German specialty stores that Westphal ready to get started until 2010. Since and Sinewe personally contacted, then, they haven’t looked back, refining HIGH STREET DUO next season will find the label going their edgy feminine looks each season, Like many young designers, Friederike after new contacts at the Premium often going for the ugly-cool aesthetic Westphal and Linda Sinewe turned fair in Berlin. “It’s the next step, and that pops up at times in and their passion into a job — and we’re also in the process of getting an — wild patterns, boxy cuts, hems their dream into a reality — with investor on board, which will mean just this side of dowdy. the founding of their own women’s a bigger atelier and more people Their most recent collection, last wear label, Hoogstraat. The two in the company. We’re in our first fall’s Neon Sparkled Nights, combined 30-year-olds set out on their own in negotiations,” Westphal revealed. versatile ladylike dressing with sexy 2010 after putting in six years in the Even if the second part of Hoogstraat’s details, mixed prints and textures, industry. Their hands-on experience tag line — “Designed in Berlin and and surprised with bits of blazingly Yujia Zhai-Petrow covered everything from the process Made in Germany” — falls to the side, bright embroidery. Their separates of 1913Berlin. of patternmaking to product, trend the first will undoubtedly remain. “We and dresses are designed to be office- research, international production, like the lifestyle here, and every day friendly with potential to thrill after logistics, corporate design, catalogues brings an inspiration, whether it’s hours, for confident career girls with a An assignment for a cashmere brand and ad campaigns, all of which served in a bar, cafe, club or exhibit,” said sense of humor. set her on her current path. “Actually them as they established their business. Westphal. “Last weekend we had the The Blame girl is 25 to 50-plus — cashmere chose me,” she laughed. The duo met in 2008 while working Carnival of Cultures going on right a figure that’s been adjusted due to Developing an affinity for the luxury for a Berlin streetwear label. Westphal outside our window. There are always the line’s popularity with a range of yarn, Zhai-Petrow set up a cashmere was a designer while Sinewe did these incredible little moments in women. Now, Hodzode and Büren consultancy, and has since designed graphics. “Jeans are absolutely not our Berlin.” — M.D. are starting to think about the Blame knits for a range of big-name clients thing, but we discovered we were on the boy, but they lack the manpower at from the mass market to the catwalk. same wavelength,” Westphal recalled. the moment, and estimate that goal is illig Zhai-Petrow found a home in Added Sinewe, “And it was good h Friederike Westphal and about two years away, even though the Germany’s capital, finding an affinity that both of us weren’t doing fashion. I Linda Sinewe of Hoogstraat. less-saturated men’s market might be with Berlin’s combination of the serious can take care of all the other aspects” Matti a smarter choice for these upstarts. and the carefree. Inspired to create related to running a fashion business.” “Women’s wear at the moment is the

her own line, she launched 1913Berlin, Hoogstraat is Dutch for “high street” photo by more difficult thing. That’s why we chose which made its Mercedes-Benz Fashion (Sinewe studied in Holland), but their it. Why do what’s easy?” said Büren. Week Berlin debut last January. use of the word underscores their goal of First, they’re going through the “I found my comfort zone here, but doing “high fashion for the street,” with looking glass for spring. Pulling in it took a long time,” she said. relaxed but design-oriented apparel “Alice in Wonderland” influences, Her range of men’s and women’s that’s wearable — and affordable. Blame’s next collection will feature separates is easy but elegant, made from Aimed at women between 25 and 45, floral-printed silks and sheer cottons Italian and Mongolian yarns, along with Hoogstraat’s silk dresses retail between blocked a bit off-kilter at the seams, silks and delicate chiffons. “I don’t want $212 and $275, jackets are $250 to $440 touched with vintage-look cotton lace. to do museum pieces,” she said of her and skirts run $162 to $188. “We want to Looks are sweet but sophisticated; designs. “[I want] you to wear them.” be in the middle,” Westphal declared. contrasting black velvet ribbon trim The brand’s sexy knits challenge “We have lots of friends that need on collars calls to mind a girlish Alice cashmere’s buttoned-up reputation, and fashion [separates] to wear on the job, headband, but adds dark interest. provide new basics, like flowing mini not just clothes from the verticals. And Colors of rich rust, black as well as capes that could be tossed over a top and they’d rather have [fewer items but one] lemon-lime brocade show up in split jeans or draped over a cocktail dress, that’s special. But that doesn’t mean a skirts and full shorts. A twisted white and unisex cocooning sweater coats hand-beaded dress for 800 euros.” tweed flecked with bright threads that transform from cozy to cool with Hoogstraat’s look is clean, reflecting, suits slim-cut pants and a fitted, the flick of a zip. A bell-sleeve jacket they noted, their northern roots, with no-lapel blazer. Highlights of neon shows a subdued sparkle, while cable- cuts that are neoclassical in spirit, {Continued on page 6}

w19b004(6)a;20.indd 4 6/18/12 3:12 PM 06182012151403 THE ROCK BREAD & BUTTER AIRPORT BERLIN-TEMPELHOF 04 – 06 July 2012

www.breadandbutter.com photo by ingo robin ingo by photo 6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Berlin PrevieW

Yujia Zhai-Petrow of 1913Berlin. Blame’s Sarah Büren and Sonja becoming the original members of the Hodzode. ONES TO WATCH Sissi Goetze in her studio. brand’s Berlin chapter. Then it was off Friederike Westphal and Linda {Continued from page 4} to London, where Blechman studied Sinewe of Hoogstraat. pink accent blouses and dresses, this interior design at Richmond University, Malaika Raiss season a bit more body-conscious than and fueled his fashion passion working Sissi Goetze in her studio. in previous collections, a response to for the agency Gimme 5. Daniel Blechman of Sopopular. feedback from customers and buyers. His taste in clothes soon outgrew But Blame won’t back down from his budget. “I loved people like a love of brights. “There aren’t many Ann Demeulemeester, but it was so German designers who really play with expensive. And I thought, all my friends color,” said Hodzode. “It’s fun for us.” like what I wear, so why not make stuff The duo will present their collection for my friends? With my friends.” Which in the MBFWB studio next month. is what he did. Retail prices for Blame start at 70 euros, In 2008, Sopopular was founded, or $88, for accessories; dresses run 180 the name a nod to Nirvana, or more to 400 euros, or $225 to $500; tops are precisely Kurt Cobain, who two days 100 to 230 euros, or $125 to $287, and before he died had said, “It’s tough to jackets range from 370 to 390 euros, or be so popular.” Blechman caught the $461 to $486. The line is available in quote on an episode of MTV Masters illig h

Berlin’s F95, Paderborn, Germany’s and told his best friends, “We have a Moods and Workshop in Turn. A Web name, so let’s do a brand, and that’s

shop is expected to launch soon. — S.S. Matti how it started.” by Blechman makes no bones about the ART CONNECTION personal content of Sopopular. “I’ve Young designer Malaika Raiss is a prime photos always had the urge for clothes I’d want example of Germany’s frequent art and to wear myself.” fashion connection. Born in Darmstadt important. And I am excited about our incorporates many features Goetze is Hanging in Sopopular’s Kreuzberg and raised by an artistic family, the egg-shaped shoulder jacket,” she added. still investigating today. offices were plenty of Blechman’s 27-year-old Raiss found her calling at a To round out the picture, scarves, “I work like I’m doing a study. Each “from-me-to-you” looks, from this young age. “My father works in media, my purses and small leather goods will be collection develops out of the last,” collection dubbed Unsung Heroes. grandpa was a painter and my grandma introduced this season. Goetze said. “I like to research till I’ve Batiked gingham shirts are styled with taught me how to sew,” she said. Her knitwear is hand-made in probed the last detail. Maybe that’s also a diminutive collar and placket, and She grew up surrounded by fashion Germany and the ready-to-wear why I do men’s wear,” she suggested. easy cotton pants conversely sport a magazines, always had an interest in art is produced in Poland. “It’s very “With women’s, you’re expected to wide waistband, as does a blocky gray and painting, and at the age of 12, she important for us to have control over the do something new every season. The sweatshirt. A gray jersey crewneck started making her own clothes. production and we need to be as close to field for something new is narrower in shirt with an attached oatmeal crew, its After studying fashion design in this process as possible,” she observed. men’s, especially when, like me, you’re longer, drawstring bottom peeking out Mannheim, Raiss moved to Berlin She explained that her customers concentrating on simpler things.” from under, is a lightened-up version of where she became a junior designer want to know where the clothes come Goetze will show 12 looks from her a popular fall look, while a short-sleeve at Lala Berlin. After four years there, from and how they are made. The third signature collection at the MBFWB black tailored jacket with matching she freelanced for several other Berlin target group varies, from young girls to studio space, and her designs will also shorts lined in gray (for those accent brands, including Sabrina Dehoff, confident, fashion-savvy women who take to the runway July 6 as one of the roll-ups) references “Miami Vice.” until 2010, when she founded her own want pieces they will have for a long time. three designer finalists in the Berlin namesake label. There is also a green aspect to Senate’s “Start Your Fashion Business” Delicate, feminine yet minimal MalaikaRaiss. “All our materials are competition. The collection will also sophistication is the essence of her eco-friendly and we do not use materials be on hand in the Collect Showroom collections. For spring, she’s primarily that are not recyclable,” she said. grouping at the Capsule trade fair in been inspired by Sixties and Seventies The collection also utilizes textiles Berlin, as well as during men’s fashion Hollywood rock ’n’ roll glamour and “exclusively woven and developed in week in Paris. Concrete sales, however, Dennis Hopper’s book “Photographs France for us,” she said. One example are just beginning, with Goetze bagging 1961-1967.” She has made these her is based on an old fabric Raiss had Berlin trend store Voo as her first retail own by translating ripped T-shirt yarn, from her grandmother. door. At current exchange, wholesale usually found in casual streetwear, for MalaikaRaiss is carried by about prices start at about $120 for a shirt, example, into deluxe hand-knit tops. 10 doors in Germany, Taiwan and $150 for pants, $175 for blousons and In contrast to last season’s monotone Japan. Retail prices range from about $200 for other jackets. Production is collection, spring’s palette will be awash 890 euros, or $1,118 for a Swarovski centered in Berlin. in swimming pool blue, palm tree green, embroidered gown; 80 euros, or $100, Asked to describe the kind of man dusty white and light gray. for a silk and viscose shirt and 259 who wears Sissi Goetze, she responded: Texture is also a key element. “Our euros, or $325, for a silk dress. “He’s a mix between Axel Foley of focus is on the texture of the fabrics, The designer has yet to finalize her ‘Beverly Hills Cop’ and Clark Kent.” so that our fabrics are not flat but Berlin presentation venue, which she Pointing to some inspirational photos have a hand,” she noted, pointing to a said will either in the MBFWB studio hanging on her wall, she explained, kaleidoscope palm-tree cotton and silk or off-site. The brand will also show at “There are two poles: cool guys on the summer jacquard, and crinkled leather. Capsule in Paris. — norMa Quinto street and then these fastidious, orderly, Then, too, there are early Nineties buttoned-up fellows. And lately I’ve Daniel and “Beverly Hills, 90210” influences in BOYS TO MEN been inspired by old photos of children Blechman of shoulder-free dresses, and sportswear A bottle of red nail polish is not the first [from the Fifties and Sixties], translating Sopopular. looks in silk and viscose. “Back thing one expects to see in the atelier of their classic boys’ clothing proportions cleavage and off-the-shoulder styles are a men’s wear designer. into something for adults.” “Well, I am a girl,” was Sissi It’s almost as if the kids’ photos were Accessories include two varieties Goetze’s response, though on this day, waiting to be found, for from the start, of suspenders, one with silver metal her nails were a light aqua green. But Goetze has had a penchant for cropped, luggage hook clips and another with her stylistic heart and soul are purely high-cut pants and “Leave It to Beaver”- long leather button loops. At current in the male sector. like bombers and blousons. Next spring, exchange, retail prices range from Born in Dresden but raised in she’ll offer lots of short pants — not about $625 to $750 for coats, $625 for Munich after her family emigrated shorts, but pants tailored to the knee, suits, $187 to $250 for trousers, $175 there in 1988, Goetze completed her plus classic English schoolboy caps, to $250 for shirts and $73 to $160 for fashion studies in 2008 at Berlin’s “cutely rounded” lapels, narrow ties, and T-shirts and sweatshirts. University of Applied Sciences longer, somewhat oversize jackets as part “I try to do edgy classics you can (alongside other Berlin up-and-comers of that overgrown schoolboy look. — M.D. wear more than one season and can Hien Le and Issever Bahri’s Derya combine with nearly everything you Issever and Cimen Bachri.) While she’d HOME BOY want,” he stated. Sopopular sells to nine designed much men’s wear during Born in Tel Aviv, Daniel Blechman doors in Germany and another seven her studies, an internship with Bruno moved to Berlin when he was four. “So shops in Holland, , Switzerland, Pieters cinched it. yes, I am a Berliner,” the now 40-year- Austria, China and Korea, plus the “The collection Pieters was old said. His fashion interest also goes brand’s online store. working on had a whole lot of ruffles, back to his childhood years, when his Blechman is joining the MBFWB and I thought, ‘No, no, this just isn’t Russian mom’s style savvy made him the lineup with his first presentation me,’” she recalled. best-dressed kid in elementary school. in the tent studio space — looking She went on to earn a master’s of In his midteens, he got into labels like forward to the editorial exposure — arts degree in men’s wear at Central Gaultier Jr. and then developed his but Sopopular will also be exhibiting Saint Martins, her 2010 graduate eye for street art, culture and style at Seek. “At the end of the day, I don’t Malaika Raiss collection a surgically precise men’s hanging out with his friends. He and need to be famous,” he said. “I need lineup in white cotton shirting that his pals went so far as to import Stussy, people to buy my clothes.” — M.D.

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VIA AMEDEI 8 VIA GESU’, 9 VIA ANDREA MAFFEI, 2 02/546701 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76014540 VIA

VIA SENATO, 11 VIA SENATO, VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO, VIA SENATO, 11 VIA SENATO, VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA SAN FRANCESCO D’ASSISI, 15 02/58310450

VIA TORTONA, 35 VIA TORTONA,

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO, VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269 VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO, VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269 VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO, VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269 RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA 02/58105200 CORSO MATTEOTTI, 14 02/84961950 VIA DURINI, 24 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 9 02/76025915

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 42 RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

VIA GESÙ, 12

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA GESU’, 12

VIA ARGELATI, 22

CORSO VENEZIA, 25

VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA SAVONA, 56/A Update on 14th June 2012 June 14th on Update VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/

OFFICIAL SPONSOR 26TH June - 15TH July 2012 July 15TH - June 26TH

PIAZZA SEMPIONE

FUZZI

SERGIO ROSSI

SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA

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ZMD SPA

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI ROBERTO SISSIROSSI

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ROBERTO DEL CARLO DEL CARLO ROBERTO GIVUESSE COMPANY SPW

PIQUADRO COMPANY SPW

PLEIN SUD COMPANY SPW

POLLINI POLLINI

PORTS 1961 SPA PORTS SVEVO PRADA MODA & COMPANY GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A. GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A.

RICHMOND TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL RICHMOND LIMELIGHT

ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE

TER ET BANTINE

THERMORE

TOMBOLINI ROCCOBAROCCO TOMBOLINI ROCCOBAROCCO TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL ROCCOBAROCCO ZMD SPA RODO FIRENZE CORNELIANI SANTONI TRU TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI JEANS TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI TRU PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5 02/59994311 MODA & COMPANY TRU TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI JEANS TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI TRU PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5 02/59994311 SCERVINO STREET SCERVINO ZMD SPA

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ZMD SPA

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VERSACE

LIMELIGHT

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STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

ERMENEGILDO

WEAR SLO

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS

PIAZZA SEMPIONE

PIERANTONIOGASPARI

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SIMONETTA SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA MINI SIMONETTA

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SINEQUANONE

SISSIROSSI

SISTE’S

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SOLLECITI

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PIQUADRO STONE ISLAND JUNIOR

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POLLINI STUDIO POLLINI

PORTS 1961 SVEVO PRADA SWEET MATILDA PRECIOUS SWEET MATILDA BABY SWEET MATILDA RICHMOND ACCESSORI T CONCEPT RICHMOND DENIM UOMO TAG ELEMENTS TAG ROBERTO BOTTICELLI TARA JARMON TARA ROBERTO CAVALLI JUNIOR TER ET BANTINE ROBERTO CAVALLI NEWBORN THERMORE ® ROBERTO DEL CARLO TOMBOLINI ROCCOBAROCCO - RB TOMBOLINI DONNA ROCCOBAROCCO KIDS TOMBOLINI FLEUR ROCCOBAROCCO UOMO TRAFFIC PEOPLE RODO FIRENZE TREND CORNELIANI SANTONI TRU TRUSSARDI SCEE BY TWIN-SET SCEE BY TRUSSARDI JEANS SCERVINO STREET TWIN - SET

TWIN SET ACCESSORI

TWIN SET GIRL

TWIN SET JEANS

TWIN-SET PRE-COLLEZIONE

VERSACE

VERSACE COLLECTION

VERSUS

VIKTOR & ROLF VIKTOR

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Z ZEGNA

ZANONE

ZEGNA SPORT

TELEPHONE BRAND 02/89127907 02/89127907

02/798124

02/76013721

02/796385

02/76013721

02/796358

02/796358

02/86984687

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/72080319

02/5817771

02/33002600

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/877872

02/89077112

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/76013721

02/76013721 02/76013721 02/76013721

02/5817771

02/5817771

02/54107275

02/76016359

02/76013707

02/76013707

02/8545821

02/422041

02/422041

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/55185801

02/55185801

02/55010457

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VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 02/784290

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA T. SALVINI, 5 SALVINI, VIA T.

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

CORSO VENEZIA, 16

VIA SAN FRANCESCO D’ASSISI, 15 02/58310450

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 27 27 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76316025 VIA

VIA S. ANDREA, 23

VIA S. ANDREA, 23

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 02/777191

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 02/777191 VIA MANZONI, 21 VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 3 02/3021131 CANTONI, ERMENEGILDO VIA

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA LUCA BELTRAMI, 5 BELTRAMI, VIA LUCA 02/8069131

VIA MALPIGHI, 7

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 18 02/76018374

VIA SAVONA, 60

VIA VERRI, 10 ANG. VIA 02/76020470

MONTENAPOLEONE

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23 23 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76016108 VIA

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/3021131 VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA BRERA, 7

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA ARGELATI, 22

VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 02/47952048

2° PIANO INTERNO 2° 106

VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 02/47952048

2° PIANO INTERNO 2° 106

VIA ARGELATI, 22

VIA SPARTACO, 34 VIA SPARTACO,

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 3

VIA VIVAIO, 11 VIA VIVAIO, TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA 02/58105200 VIA VIVAIO, 11 VIA VIVAIO,

VIA SOLFERINO, 9 VIA SOLFERINO,

VIA STENDHAL,47

VIA STENDHAL, 47

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 02/781869 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/3021131

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LES COPAINS BLUE PRE COLLECTION PRE BLUE COPAINS LES

LES COPAINS WHITE LABEL LES COPAINS

LES ESSENTIELS

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LIAPULL CASHMERE

LIU-JO ACCESSORI

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02/76013721

02/76013721 02/584111 02/42473211

02/796385 02/76013721 02/4225631

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02/33601990

349-3853086 02/798124 02/89077112

02/76014904

02/76013721

02/878910 02/8312161

02/7788741

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011/2292811

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O2/422091

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02/76016020

335/7231506

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VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 1 02/76011724

VIA SENATO 34

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, 17 VIA SAN ROCCO, VIA STENDHAL, 36

CORSO VENEZIA, 16 34 VIA SENATO, VIA STENDHAL, 36

VIA SENATO, 45 VIA SENATO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 11 02/77711701

VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 8 VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 02/89075001-2

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA, 26 PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA, 0031-841061 16 VIALE MONTELLO,

5 SALVINI, VIA T.

VIA SANTO SPIRITO,13 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,13

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA LANZA, 4 - ANGOLO FORO FORO ANGOLO - 02/86463028 4 LANZA, VIA

BUONAPARTE BUONAPARTE

VIA GESÙ, 2/A

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIALE UMBRIA 37 VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671 VIA LODOVICO IL MORO, 23 MORO, IL LODOVICO VIA 02/89152070

VIA SPIGA, 1

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 5 5 MONTENAPOLEONE, VIA 02/45471404

VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, 2 VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, 02/62690172

VIA BIGLI, 20

VIA BORGONUOVO, 16 VIA BORGONUOVO, 02/65569311

VIA G. FIAMMA, 28/A

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 7

VIA DURINI, 24

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 48

VIA MARIO FUSETTI, 12 02/838441

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 02/784290

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA STENDHAL, 34

VIA SIRTORI, 22 VIA SIRTORI,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA CERESIO, 9 VIA CERESIO,

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23 23 MONTENAPOLEONE, VIA 02/76016108

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA SPARTACO, 6 VIA SPARTACO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, VIA 02/76014540

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 3 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, VIA 02/76014540

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ADD JUNIOR

AGNONA

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ALLEGRI

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE ALVIERO

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G. MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G MARTINI ALVIERO ALVIERO VIA F. ARGELATI 1/A

AMBRE BABZOE

ANTONIO FUSCO

ANTONIO MARRAS

ARTIOLI

AVANT TOI

BALLIN

BALLY BALLY

BLAUER

BLUGIRL FOLIES BLUGIRL

BORSALINO

BOTTICELLI LIMITED

BRIONI

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BRUNELLO

BYTE BY GIULIANA TESO BY BYTE

C.P. COMPANY COMPANY C.P.

CACHAREL

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CALVIN

CANALI

CAR SHOE

CARLO PIGNATELLI CERIMONIA PIGNATELLI CARLO

CARLO PIGNATELLI JOLIE PIGNATELLI CARLO

PRET-A-PORTER PIGNATELLI PIGNATELLI CARLO CARLO

CARUSO

CASADEI

CC COLLECTION CORNELIANI

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CHURCH’S

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CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI

COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ITALIANA COMPAGNIA

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CORTIGIANI

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D.EXTERIOR

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

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TELEPHONE

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02/875769

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02/76028055

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02/875512

02/00611711

02/76004944 02/89127907

02/76004944 02/89127907

02/89127907

02/76018132-43

02/76013721

02/76013721

02/76028055 02/76093715 02/7632081

02/76093440

02/5817771 02/875769

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02/653544 02/76013721 02/875769

02/8312161

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02/4220141

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0524/516811 02/76080218

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VIA VIGEVANO, 18 VIA VIGEVANO,

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA SENATO, 45 VIA SENATO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA COLLETTA, 69

PIAZZA SAN BABILA, 5 348/8718448

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 42 VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIA AMEDEI 8 VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA ANDREA MAFFEI, 2 02/546701 02/58310450 15 D’ASSISI, FRANCESCO SAN VIA

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76014540 VIA 35 VIA TORTONA,

VIA SENATO, 11 VIA SENATO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA SENATO, 11 VIA SENATO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 TICINESE, 02/58105200 PORTA DI RIPA

VIA DURINI, 24

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 02/76006269 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA CORSO MATTEOTTI, 14 02/84961950 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 9 02/76025915 RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA VIA DELLA SPIGA, 42 VIA GESÙ, 12 VIA PONTACCIO, 13 VIA PONTACCIO, VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA GESU’, 12

VIA ARGELATI, 22 VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA MONTEBELLO, 30 VIA MONTEBELLO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 TICINESE, 02/58105200 PORTA DI RIPA

VIA F.ARGELATI, 1/A

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 TICINESE, 02/58105200 PORTA DI RIPA

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 TICINESE, PORTA 02/58105200 DI RIPA

VIA SALASCO, 7 VIA SALASCO,

VIA SAVONA, 54

VIA SAVONA, 54

VIA SAVONA, 54

VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIA GESU’, 9 CORSO VENEZIA, 25

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO, VIA SAVONA, 56/A Update on 14th June 2012 June 14th on Update 3 CANTONI, ERMENEGILDO VIA 02/

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ZMD SPA

CORNELIANI

TRU TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI JEANS JEANS PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5 TRUSSARDI & 02/59994311 TRUSSARDI TRU

ROCCOBAROCCO JEANS PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5 TRUSSARDI & 02/59994311 TRUSSARDI TRU

ROCCOBAROCCO ZMD SPA

ROCCOBAROCCO ZMD SPA RODO FIRENZE ZMD KIDS DIVISION SANTONI ZMD SPA MODA & COMPANY ZMD SPA SCERVINO STREET SCERVINO VERSACE SERGIO ROSSI LIMELIGHT

VERSUS

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA ZMD KIDS DIVISION SIMONETTA

ZMD SPA

SISSIROSSI

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

GIVUESSE

SPW COMPANY SPW

SPW COMPANY SPW

SPW COMPANY SPW

POLLINI

SVEVO VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

MODA & COMPANY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA WEAR SLO

TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS

PIAZZA SEMPIONE

PIERANTONIOGASPARI

PIQUADRO

PLEIN SUD

POLLINI JARMON TARA

PORTS 1961

PRADA TER ET BANTINE

PRECIOUS THERMORE ®

RICHMOND ACCESSORI TOMBOLINI

RICHMOND DENIM UOMO TOMBOLINI DONNA

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI TOMBOLINI FLEUR

ROBERTO CAVALLI JUNIOR TRAFFIC PEOPLE

ROBERTO CAVALLI NEWBORN TREND CORNELIANI

ROBERTO DEL CARLO TRU TRUSSARDI

ROCCOBAROCCO - RB TRUSSARDI JEANS

ROCCOBAROCCO KIDS TWIN - SET

ROCCOBAROCCO UOMO TWIN SET ACCESSORI RODO FIRENZE TWIN SET GIRL SANTONI TWIN SET JEANS SCEE BY TWIN-SET SCEE BY TWIN-SET PRE-COLLEZIONE SCERVINO STREET VERSACE SERGIO ROSSI VERSACE COLLECTION

VERSUS

VIKTOR & ROLF VIKTOR SIMONETTA SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA MINI SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA TINY SIMONETTA

SINEQUANONE

SISSIROSSI

SISTE’S

SISTE’S MORE

SOLLECITI

STONE ISLAND

STONE ISLAND JUNIOR

STONE ISLAND SHADOW

STUDIO POLLINI

SVEVO VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

SWEET MATILDA Z ZEGNA

SWEET MATILDA BABY SWEET MATILDA ZANONE

T CONCEPT ZEGNA SPORT

TAG ELEMENTS TAG

TELEPHONE BRAND 02/89127907 02/89127907

02/798124

02/76013721

02/796385

02/76013721

02/796358

02/796358

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/72080319 02/86984687

02/5817771

02/33002600

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/877872

02/89077112

02/42205540

02/42205540

02/76013721

02/76013721 02/76013721 02/76013721

02/5817771

02/5817771

02/54107275

02/76016359

02/76013707

02/76013707

02/8545821

02/422041

02/422041

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/55185801

02/55185801

02/55010457

Via Gerolamo Morone, 6 • 20121 Milano Milano 20121 • 6 Morone, Gerolamo Via

• Area Milano Moda Showroom Moda Milano Area •

VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 02/784290

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA T. SALVINI, 5 SALVINI, VIA T.

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

CORSO VENEZIA, 16

VIA SAN FRANCESCO D’ASSISI, 15 02/58310450 15 D’ASSISI, FRANCESCO SAN VIA

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 27 27 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76316025 VIA

VIA S. ANDREA, 23

VIA S. ANDREA, 23

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 02/777191

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 02/777191 VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 3 02/3021131 CANTONI, ERMENEGILDO VIA

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA LUCA BELTRAMI, 5 BELTRAMI, VIA LUCA 02/8069131

VIA MALPIGHI, 7 VIA MANZONI, 21 VIA SANT’ANDREA, 18 02/76018374

VIA SAVONA, 60

VIA VERRI, 10 ANG. VIA 02/76020470 VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/3021131 3 CANTONI, ERMENEGILDO VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23 23 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76016108 VIA

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA BRERA, 7

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA ARGELATI, 22

VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 02/47952048 ALL’ORTO, PIETRO SAN VIA

2° PIANO INTERNO 106 2°

VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 02/47952048 ALL’ORTO, PIETRO SAN VIA

2° PIANO INTERNO 106 2°

VIA ARGELATI, 22

VIA SPARTACO, 34 VIA SPARTACO,

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 3

VIA VIVAIO, 11 VIA VIVAIO, 79 02/58105200 TICINESE, PORTA DI RIPA VIA VIVAIO, 11 VIA VIVAIO,

VIA SOLFERINO, 9 VIA SOLFERINO,

VIA STENDHAL,47

VIA STENDHAL, 47

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 02/781869

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/3021131

www.cameramoda.it

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

TOMBOLINI

TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL

GIULIANA TESO

WEAR SLO

MODA & COMPANY

ALBERTO GUARDIANI ALBERTO

TER ET BANTINE

MODA & COMPANY

HARMONT & BLAINE

HUSKY

HUSKY

ICEBERG

ICEBERG

SLOWEAR SLOWEAR

JIL SANDER

JO NO FUI LES COPAINS JOHN RICHMOND

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

LARUSMIANI

LE SILLA

LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

LORENZO RIVA LORENZO

ZMD SPA

LIMELIGHT

AVANT TOI - LIAPULL CASHMERE AVANT TOI - LIAPULL BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

MODA & COMPANY ZMD KIDS DIVISION MODA & COMPANY

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

MANAS

MANAS

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

MASSIMO REBECCHI

MASSIMO SFORZA

MILA SCHÖN ZMD SPA MILA SCHÖN

MISSONI

MONCLER

MONCLER GAMME BLEU

SLOWEAR SLOWEAR

NANDO MUZI

FUZZI

PAOLA FRANI

PAOLA FRANI

PIANURASTUDIO

MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS

LES COPAINS

FUZZI

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Moda della Nazionale Camera

tel. 02.777108 1 • fax 02.77710850-62 • [email protected][email protected][email protected] • 02.77710850-62 fax • 1 02.777108 tel.

GIULIANA TESO

GLANSHIRT

GOOD MOOD

GREY DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

GUARDIANI SPORT

HACHE

HACK

HARMONT & BLAINE

HILTON

HILTON-VESTIMENTA

HUSKY

HUSKY BOYS & GIRLS BOYS HUSKY

ICE ICEBERG

ICEBERG

INCOTEX

JEAN PAUL GUALTIER SOLEIL FEMME SOLEIL GUALTIER PAUL JEAN

JIL SANDER

JO NO FUI

JOHN RICHMOND

JUST CAVALLI

LARUSMIANI

LE SILLA

LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS BLACK LABEL LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS BLUE BLUE LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS BLUE PRE COLLECTION PRE BLUE COPAINS LES

LES COPAINS WHITE LABEL LES COPAINS

LES ESSENTIELS

LES SOEURS

LIAPULL CASHMERE

LIU-JO ACCESSORI

LIU-JO COLLECTION

LIU-JO JEANS CORE

LIU-JO JEANS FASHION

LIU-JO JEANS UOMO

LIU-JO LES PLUMES

LIU-JO PRE-COLLECTION

LORENZO RIVA LORENZO

MADEMOISELLE TARA

MAGAZZINI DEL SALE

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

MANAS

MANAS LEA FOSCATI MANAS LEA FOSCATI

MARC JACOBS MEN

MASSIMO REBECCHI

MASSIMO SFORZA

MILA

MILA SCHÖN

MISS BLUMARINE

MISS BLUMARINE JEANS MISS BLUMARINE

MISSONI

MONCLER

MONCLER GAMME BLEU

MONTEDORO

NANDO MUZI

NANIBON

P.F.-MAIN

P.F.-PRE P.F.-PRE

PAUL & SHARK PAUL

PIANURASTUDIO

TELEPHONE BRAND

02/76013721

02/76013721 02/584111 02/42473211

02/796385 02/76013721 02/4225631

02/8312161

02/794872 02/76013721

02/33601990

349-3853086 02/798124 02/89077112

02/76014904

02/76013721

02/878910 02/8312161

02/7788741

02/76013721

011/2292811

02/4691916

02/760591

02/550501

02/798345

011/2292811

011/2292811

02/77885911

02/29003448

02/76008166

02/76018132-43

02/798526

02/76013721

02/42409440

02/2772300

02/76013721

02/5817771

02/76013721

O2/422091

02/550201

02/875769

02/875769

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/76016020

335/7231506

02/76317941

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 1 02/76011724

VIA SENATO 34

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, 17 VIA SAN ROCCO, VIA STENDHAL, 36

CORSO VENEZIA, 16 34 VIA SENATO, VIA STENDHAL, 36

VIA SENATO, 45 VIA SENATO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SANT’ANDREA, 11 02/77711701

VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 8 VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 02/89075001-2

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA, 26 26 0031-841061 REPUBBLICA, DELLA PIAZZA 16 VIALE MONTELLO,

5 SALVINI, VIA T.

VIA SANTO SPIRITO,13 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,13

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA LANZA, 4 - ANGOLO FORO FORO 02/86463028 ANGOLO - 4 LANZA, VIA

BUONAPARTE BUONAPARTE

VIA GESÙ, 2/A

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIALE UMBRIA 37 VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671 VIA LODOVICO IL MORO, 23 23 MORO, IL LODOVICO 02/89152070 VIA

VIA SPIGA, 1

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA ENNIO 6/A

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 5 5 MONTENAPOLEONE, VIA 02/45471404

VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, 2 VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, 02/62690172

VIA BIGLI, 20

VIA BORGONUOVO, 16 VIA BORGONUOVO, 02/65569311

VIA G. FIAMMA, 28/A

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 7

VIA DURINI, 24

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 48

VIA MARIO FUSETTI, 12 02/838441

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 02/784290

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA STENDHAL, 34

VIA SIRTORI, 22 VIA SIRTORI,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA CERESIO, 9 VIA CERESIO,

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23 23 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76016108 VIA

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA SPARTACO, 6 VIA SPARTACO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76014540 VIA

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 3 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10 10 MONTENAPOLEONE, 02/76014540 VIA

LIMELIGHT

A.TESTONI

MODA & COMPANY

ZMD KIDS DIVISION STUDIO SRL BALLY AGNONA

ALBERTO GUARDIANI ALBERTO MODA & COMPANY ALLEGRI

ALVIERO MARTINO 1° CLASSE MARTINO ALVIERO VIA F. ARGELATI 1/A

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI ROBERTO MODA & COMPANY

ANTONIO FUSCO

CIRCOLO MARRAS SNC CIRCOLO

ARTIOLI ARTIOLI CUCINELLI BRUNELLO

GIULIANA TESO AVANT TOI - LIAPULL CASHMERE AVANT TOI - LIAPULL BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

BALLIN

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

BORSALINO

BRIONI

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

CC COLLECTION CORNELIANI 1 VIA VALPARAISO,

CACHAREL

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CALVIN ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE CANALI

CAR SHOE

CARLO PIGNATELLI CARLO

CARLO PIGNATELLI CARLO

CARUSO

SHOWROOM CASADEI

CELINE

CHURCH’S

PACI BRANDS SHOWROOM

CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI CLASS ROBERTO

CORNELIANI

CORTIGIANI CORTIGIANI

COSTUME NATIONAL

ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

MODA & COMPANY

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

DONDUP

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

LIMELIGHT

LE SILLA

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

ETRO

SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA

FUZZI

FUZZI

GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A. GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A.

GIANVITO ROSSI

GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A. GIORGIO GRATI S.P.A.

MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS

OFFICIAL SPONSOR

CNMI is promoting and coordinating the calendar of the Milan Showroom openings for the sales of men’s, women’s and children’s Spring/Summer 2013 collections.

DAL 26 GIUGNO AL 15 LUGLIO 2012 LUGLIO 15 AL GIUGNO 26 DAL Aggiornato al 14 Giugno 2012 Giugno 14 al Aggiornato

BRAND

.NORMALUISA

A.TESTONI

ADD

ADD JUNIOR

AGNONA

ALBERTO GUARDIANI

ALLEGRI

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE ALVIERO

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G. L.E.G. - VIA F. ARGELATI 1/A CLASSE 1° MARTINI MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G ALVIERO ALVIERO

AMBRE BABZOE

ANTONIO FUSCO

ANTONIO MARRAS

ARTIOLI

AVANT TOI

BALLIN

BALLY BALLY

BLAUER

BLUGIRL FOLIES BLUGIRL

BORSALINO

BOTTICELLI LIMITED

BRIONI

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BRUNELLO

BYTE BY GIULIANA TESO BY BYTE

C.P. COMPANY COMPANY C.P.

CACHAREL

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CALVIN

CANALI

CAR SHOE

CARLO PIGNATELLI CERIMONIA PIGNATELLI CARLO

CARLO PIGNATELLI JOLIE PIGNATELLI CARLO

PRET-A-PORTER PIGNATELLI PIGNATELLI CARLO CARLO

CARUSO

CASADEI

CC COLLECTION CORNELIANI

CELINE

CHURCH’S

CIVIDINI

CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI

COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ITALIANA COMPAGNIA

CORNELIANI

CORTIGIANI

COSTUME NATIONAL COSTUME NATIONAL

D.EXTERIOR

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

DARLING

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

DONDUP

DREAMERS

DSQUARED2

EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS

ENIO SILLA FOR LE SILLA

ERMANNO SCERVINO JUNIOR

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

ETRO

FAY JUNIOR FAY

FENDI KIDS

FIUME

FUZZI

GG DI GIORGIO GRATI

GIANVITO ROSSI

GIORGIO GRATI GIORGIO GRATI 10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Berlin PrevieW Change in the Air New show venues as well as adjusting the approach to business in a difficult economy are hot topics, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin gets under way July 4 to 6. By Melissa Drier

AS THE POPULAR saying goes, Berlin is moving into the Postbahnhof off is a city that’s always in the process of Ostbahnhof, adding another postal becoming. That’s more true than ever for railway station to a fair location line- the German capital’s role as a fashion up that already includes a landmark and trade show magnet this season. airport, two power stations, an iconic Last-minute developments on the Fifties café, the former Stasi headquar- local end, ongoing jitters in the euro zone, ters, a sports hall and a five-star hotel mounting financial pressures on big and literally all over town. small players alike and a weather-related As for the commercial landscape, dip in German apparel retail sales are Germany’s consumers remain favorably likely to make their mark on the upcom- inclined, according to the latest GFK ing Berlin Fashion Week. Nonetheless, consumer sentiment survey. In fact, with about 60 runway shows and presen- May found them even more optimistic tations in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion and inclined to buy than in April, and Week Berlin tent and assorted off-site European surveys have the Germans venues, fully booked editions of Bread pegged as the most buoyant on the con- & Butter and Premium, plus eight other tinent, mirroring the nation’s economy. trade fairs running concurrently, July 4 to Ye t another recent study by the market- 6 promises to be an action-packed three ing research institute Forsa countered days in Berlin. old stereotypes by revealing the German There’s change in the air, with some consumer as “spontaneous,” especially show organizers, designers and brands when it comes to buying clothing, which cooking up new strategies and initia- leads the list of unplanned purchases. tives to meet domestic as well as inter- Germany’s apparel retailers, on the national challenges. other hand, had strong 2011 figures to When possible, that is. beat. Uncooperative weather lead to The unexpected May announcement slight declines in May sales and most Schumacher will stream its July 5 runway show on its Web site using that Berlin’s new airport would not open likely flat to somewhat-lower sales for a 360-degree camera placed in the front row. in June as planned scratched Panorama, the first half of 2012. Germany’s new, more volume-oriented “The trade won’t be in a particularly ly believe the denim industry is facing a love to show in Berlin because we want platform, from the show list this season. good mood” in Berlin, predicted Jürgen big change, and that there will be a new to show where we come from.” The fair, set to open with 200 exhibitors Dax, director of the German Apparel and different denim wave. And that’s One drawback has been the tent’s at the Airport Expo Center, attempted to Retailers Association, nonetheless what I’m investing in. The future.” seating limit of 600, which Schumacher find temporary quarters, but faced with adding, “but it’s not a catastrophe com- Müller’s investment, in the form of a hopes to virtually solve by means of a having to turn away a significant portion pared to 2010 or 2009.” 29,000 square-foot Tempel of Denim, is 360-degree camera placed in the first of its participants, decided to wait until The biggest problem for the nation’s expected to run about 1 million euros, row. Consumers, buyers and other brand next January to jump into the Berlin retailers is declining traffic in the or more than $1.2 million at current ex- associates will be virtually invited, as fray. Panorama would have significant- stores, he said. change rates. The blue-roofed construc- well as picked up and brought to their ly broadened Berlin’s brand outlook, “Many stores are having a hard time, tion will feature all manner of special virtual seats in the front row where — adding midmarket and wide distribu- but others are not. There are midsized presentations by denim’s “opinion lead- in reality, seated at their computers — tion specialists to the city’s current stores generating a plus, and those that ers” as well as two daily fashion shows they’ll be able to witness the whole show contemporary and streetwear focus. It communicate well with their consum- (for an additional cost of about 500,000 experience, moving their mouse on the would also have spread out the Berlin ers via events to bring them into the euros, or $625,000) to be staged on an al- images to get a full 360-degree view. She Fashion Week map, as the new airport is stores will profit. Still, we’ve noticed in most 400-foot table in the middle of the said retail partners like Engelhorn and a solid 40-minute ride from the city center. the last few years that customers may space that can seat 700. Breuninger plan to do public viewings Trade visitors to Berlin will get to be coming into stores less frequently, “I want to bring everyone to the with their customers. see enough corners and landmarks but they’ve been buying more or more table,” he said. “There are so many re- It’s been a last-minute season for a of the city as it is. In what seems to be expensive items,” Dax reported. “The ligions of denim today: more tailored, lot of smaller, independent and up-and- an ongoing game of musical tents, the average sales check has been higher authentic, heritage, women’s, body con- coming designers, who, less than three MBFWB show and presentation venue than before.” scious…and that’s what we want to dem- weeks before fashion week, were still has been shifted farther down the However, consumers are fed up with onstrate [in the temple]. Deciding which scrambling to find sponsors and funds Strasse des 17. Juni in Tiergarten, now the glut of merchandise, he warned. “So religion, which brand — that’s what’s ex- for their spring presentations. One solu- nestling up against “Golden Else,” as the perhaps we will start seeing a move to- citing for the retailer.” tion: teamwork, as illustrated by Berlin Siegessäule, or Victory Column, is affec- ward smaller sales spaces” where retail- There will also be some MIA’s on the designer brands Mongrels in Common tionately called. ers can create stronger and more pro- MBFWB runways, such as LaLa Berlin. and Liebig, who will be hosting a dual In another venue shift, Capsule filed presentations. Its designer, Leyla Piedayesh, said that, presentation of their spring collections With close to 2,500 brands converg- as her collection gets larger, being fin- on the roof terrace of the recently reno- ing on Berlin for fashion week, some ished by early July has become next to vated Jewish Girls’ School. Capsule has a say it’s petty to harp on those staying impossible. Moreover, acquiring addi- “It’s two collections, two sets of de- new home at away. But with no-shows including tional international clients is now the signers, but one presentation with two Postbahnhof. Levi’s, Lee, Diesel, Replay, RL Denim sales focus, which has her considering little installations that work together,” & Supply, Meltin Pot and Miss Sixty, it’s doing a future show in Paris instead. Mongrels codesigner Livia Ximénez- hard not to react. Mannheim-based Dorothée Carillo explained. “We thought the labels “First of all, I have to respect what Schumacher, on the other hand, said were a good mix, as they fit well together firms decide,” commented Bread & Berlin’s timing has turned out to be but don’t directly compete.” Mongrels is Butter founder Karl-Heinz Müller. He a boon. “We weren’t sure at first if we hoping to make some new sales contacts suggested some brands are no longer in were ready for it, as it’s so early and via Liebig and vice-versa, and moreover the position financially to take part, or you need to know that you can sell finds the nonrunway route a good op- are having generational conflicts. what you’re showing,” she acknowl- portunity to “have more contact with our Some brands, like Levi’s, say they’re edged. “But getting the collection pre- clients, talk to them and personally show concentrating on their own stores and pared, having great photos and creat- them some details.” “more consumer-facing activities,” ing so much emotion, all by such an Big ready-to-wear brand Marc Cain while still others who’ve lost traction early date, has helped the sales team, is also eschewing the runway for its first in Europe are instead concentrating on all our partners, suppliers and most Berlin showing. Selling to 58 countries, new markets like China. importantly, our retail clients.” “we have too many customers, and a “Bread & Butter mirrors the market As for international impact, she noted defilé for 600 guests would be counter- and I regret Levi’s and Diesel are not “the runway photos are online immedi- productive,” commented Norbert Loch, participating,” Müller said. “But I’d rath- ately and reach a wide audience, plus we director of distribution and marketing. er spend time with people who are moti- do invite international clients who love Noting Berlin Fashion Week has become vated than try to convince them. to come to Berlin. The city’s got such a a meeting place for the press, including “A fair,” he went on, “is not here to hype, plus buyers get to see the whole a growing number of international jour- hillig matti present what happened yesterday, but to Schumacher world here, on the runway, nalists, Marc Cain has instead opted to show what’s going on now and where the at our stores, in KaDeWe. We make a stage an installation in the ballroom of

photo by trends are leading tomorrow. I personal- product we sell all over the world, but we the five-star Hotel de Rome.

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12 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II

WWD Berlin PrevieW INDEPENDENTS’ DAY Atelier René Talmon L’Armée Berlin’s retail scene is on a roll, with international chains and brands series of Berlin exclusives, such as multiplying their presence all over town. When Adidas, for example, Carol Christian Poell, MA+, A1923, was looking for a site for its first SLVR store in Europe, the brand chose MarvieLab, Lumen et Umbra, Munoz Vrandecic, Goti, Ugo Cacciatori, Nora Mulackstrasse in the hip Hackesche Markt area. Other new neighbors Renaud Adal, all similar in mind-set on this side of town include Barbour, which recently opened its second and aesthetic to Darkland’s men’s Berlin door on Alte Schönhauser Strasse, and Levi’s, which is moving ranges. Art installations will change into new digs on Rosa Luxemburg Strasse, as is G-Star on Linienstrasse. each season, and right now, there’s a Escada and Boss are both heading back west with new Kurfürstendamm bewitching and giant web of string geo- flagships slated to open in 2013. metrically aligned and suspended from ceiling to wall by Paris based designer At the same time the city is experiencing a new wave of independent and artist Yohan Serfaty. retailing, featuring a creative mix of multibrand, mixed-genre and per- The store’s aural landscape is equal- sonalized concepts. ly critical and integral to the Darklands Here are seven of the city’s freshest shopping destinations. experience. McDougall personally se- lects all the music on his ever-changing and directional playlist. “Being based in Gestalten Berlin, of course techno and electronic music have had a large influence on me during the last five years.” One of his current favorites: Ben Frost, whom he saw play live at the last Transmediale Festival. — NorMa QuiNto

46-52 Heide Strasse, Building 7, 10557 Atelier René Talmon L’Armée (Tiergarten) Nestled among art galleries, the new Web: darklandsberlin.com jewelry shop Atelier René Talmon Hours: Monday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. L‘Armée is a hidden gem. Housed in what served as a butcher shop in GDR Adrett times, the space has nonetheless re- In German, Adrett means “dapper” tained some of the original charm of the and this small but well-curated shop is 1840’s building, including beautifully doing its best to help its customers look gilded molded ceilings. put-together in a modern way. Mathias Kiss designed both this The brands lining the unrestored and René Talmon L’Armée’s first store vintage plaster-work walls are a who’s- in Paris, which are built around atem- who of Berlin and Munich’s finest up- poral and stylistic references such as and-comers in men and women’s wear, dark blue walls, antique wood drawers among them Raphael Hauber, Esther and in one room, classical “Pointe de Perbandt, So Popular, Franzius and Hongrie” parquet flooring. Patrick Mohr. An antique display case “I want people to come in and feel holds accessories, eyewear and jewelry really cozy in my shop,” said the design- Gestalten been attracting all manner of treasure from Funk Optik and Sous Schmuck. er, master goldsmith and Berlin native. Visual culture fans have been flocking seekers since opening its doors last fall. The store’s owners sought out a clas- Completely handcrafted with a ham- to Gestalten in the Sophie-Gips-Höfe A veritable potpourri of objects old and sic, even slightly old-fashioned German mer and his old-fashioned tools, Talmon for a number of reasons. Among them, new, much of the latter is sourced at word for their business, and decided to L’Armée’s jewelry is made primarily the Berlin publishing house’s 400 books Maison & Objet in Paris, as well as in keep the accent on local talent for mer- of oxidized sterling silver mixed with touching on design, art, architecture, Hamburg, Denmark and Dubai, where chandise, as well. 18-karat gold, rubies, opals, and black, photography and other visually related “you can buy objects from all over the “We wanted to give international cus- naturally colored and raw diamonds. themes, from new monographs on fash- world,” she enthused. Some featured tomers something that isn’t available, for Men will find silver crocodile print em- ion designer Henrik Vibskov (by Henrik finds: Egyptian mother-of-pearl boxes, example, in Copenhagen,” said shop co- bossed bracelets and oxidized silver Vibskov), an investigation of brand ex- Indian tooled leather scrapbooks, owner Thorsten Behrendt, who also owns dog-tags, while popular for women is a periences between pop-up and flagship Florentine paper boxes, ostrich eggs Prenzlauerberg’s chic cafe Marietta. plain 18-karat yellow gold ring with the retailers, to a reference book on animat- on sticks, Indian embroidered chests, To welcome and accommodate inscription “amour,” and big silver cuff ed information graphics or a look at the Panama hats from Ecuador and Danish MBFWB and trade fair visitors, Adrett in a hand-embossed crocodile print. most current tattoo culture. ruched velvet throw pillows. will stay open until 10 p.m. during fash- Women’s jewelry starts at $125, But that’s just the start. The loftlike As befits any Wunderkammer, there ion week, and plans special sales and men’s at $185, with individual pieces space is filled with handpicked design are bell jars, protecting saints, scarabs, offers. — susaN stoNe and special editions running from objects that have graced some of the shells and such, plus feather quill pens $435 to $6,500. — N.Q. Gestalten books’ pages, including sun- or simply striped quills; antlers and 23 Weinbergsweg, 10119 (Prenzlauer Berg) dry monsters, a Doner Berlin card game, horns, some decorated with a pastiche of Tel.: +49-30-473-75127 109 Linienstrasse, 10115 (Mitte) edible lacquer for cake decoration, buttons; old stuffed fawns and fox cubs, Web: adrett-berlin.de Tel.: +49-30-95-59-84-66 Japanese bowls, avant-garde jewelry and and vintage glass bottles, lamps, coffee Hours: Monday to Saturday, Web: renetalmonarmee.com contemporary ceramics. There’s also a canisters, and more. Also in stock: Eva noon to 8 p.m. Hours: Monday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. gallery at the back, where nominees and Kantor’s flora and fauna painted furni- winners of the Tokyo Art Director’s Club ture, Carolin Frydman’s shell jewelry Award could be seen this spring, and il- and creations from other contemporary lustrator Olaf Hajek’s newest monograph artists and designers, including Florian (see Scene) will be launched during Borkenhagen, Georg Polke and Mark Berlin Fashion Week. — Melissa Drier Borthwick. — M.D.

21 Sophienstrasse, 10178 (Mitte) 53 Mehringdamm, 10961 (Kreuzberg) Tel.: +49-30-2021-5821 Tel: +49-30-544-87316 Web: gestalten.com/space Web: diewunderkammer.de Hours: Sunday to Friday, noon to 8 Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 8 p.m.

Darklands 4.0 The nomadic, cutting edge men’s shop Wunderkammer has opened its latest version: Darklands “That’s the kind of shop I’d like,” 4.0. Located in a vast, white 7,100 square- thought Berlin photographer Jorinde foot former gallery space, Darklands now Gersina after seeing an exhibition of features a teaser women’s department. the czar’s Wunderkammer, or Cabinet “The new space allowed us the room of Wonders, in Vienna. The wonder to do so. After eight years of carrying didn’t take shape for another 10 years, men’s only, I was again excited about at which point her young adult children buying women’s items,” said owner told her they’d go in on the project. Campbell McDougall. Their below-stairs shop, filled with The formal introduction of wom- Adrett “arts, antiques and little wonders,” has en’s will come this fall, offering a

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WWD.COM

Fiona Bennett The 1,075-square-foot room is all Berlin’s resident mad-hatter Fiona white. She and her partner Hans- Upcycling Bennett has literally opened up the Joachim Böhme whitewashed assorted notion of a shop atelier. Two specially objects, like the wood chairs with feath- outfitted hatmakers have been in- er-shaped backs or the two life-sized lady stalled in a section of the 65 feet of candelabras, while the custom wood floor windows of her new Potsdamer Strasse by artist Barbara Carven incorporates el- shop to allow spectators see just how ements from Bennett’s previous ateliers, much craft goes into the production such as slices of hat forms or a piece of an of her signature headgear. Bennett’s old work table. retail vision in white is a fitting neigh- It’s the hats that have center stage. bor to the many art galleries that have There are men’s silk-lined Panamas in moved to this avenue-in-flux, not to new woven patterns jutting out from one mention Andreas Murkudis’ concept wall, and ladies’ black creations such store located in the courtyard behind. as a lace turban — lingerie for the head, Bennett suggested. Brad Pitt’s favorite Malcolm cap is on hand, as are women’s Fiona broad-brimmed copper cinnamé straw Bennett hats, plus knitted styles from the Kiss by Fiona Bennett collection, and her spe- cial high-end millinery collection peek- ing out from circular insets in the wall that customers are invited to try on in a special private room. — M.D.

81 Potsdamer Strasse, 10785

(Schöneberg) hillig matti adrett by and upcycling joachm bennett gern; l’armee, photo by Tel.: +49-30-280-96-330 Web: fionabennett.com the Austrian label Milch’s pants, dress- tered with paint. Priced around 400 euros, Hours: Monday to Saturday, es and skirts — which are not culottes or $500 at current exchange, “they’re not 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. but rather skirts fashioned out of men’s so cheap,” said Upcycling’s Luise Barsch, pants, the waistband and sometimes pointing to Kroh’s jacket in the window. Upcycling ticket pocket appearing at the hem. “You have to think twice about whether to What began as a temporary pop-up store Another example is the Upcycling quar- buy one or not. But that’s the idea.” has taken root — at least until February, tet’s own brand, Aluc, which creates shirts Added partner Carina Bischof: in its current brick-and-mortar form — and pants out of fabric remnants sourced in “These are pieces to live with for a and much longer as a philosophy and Austria. Then, small items like cell phone long time.” — M.D. practice, the Upcycling team hopes. The covers and change purses are made from store takes its name from the term “up- the production run’s scraps. Or Berlin de- 77 Linienstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) cycling,” which is all about converting signer Daniel Kroh’s one-of-a-kind men’s Web: upcycling-fashion.de leftover textiles, apparel and assorted jackets tailored from old work clothes to Hours: Monday to Saturday, waste into new items of value, such as create looks like a well-shaped jacket splat- 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Berlin PrevieW

Contact: White Label Adlon Kempinski, 77 Unter den Linden. Tel.: +49-30-240-8761-14 4 p.m.: Sava Nald, Hotel Adlon Kempinski, 77 Unter den Linden. SHOW AND EVENT SCHEDULE 4 p.m.: 20 Years Sven John: Plastic Jewels Vernissage, Dziuba Jewels, 25 Rosa- TUESDAY, JULY 3 Luxemburg-Strasse. 4:30 p.m.: Bread & Butter press conference. 4-7 p.m.: Luxodo Fashion Cocktail, Hotel de 6 p.m.: Bread & Butter opening party, Café Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse. am Neuen See, 2 Lichtensteinallee. 4:30 p.m.: Unrath & Strano, MBFWB. 6 p.m.: Preview show by Grazia, MBFWB. 5 p.m.: Hugo by Hugo Boss, MBFWB, 6 p.m.: Premium Young Designers Award, EisStadion Mitte, 185 Muellerstrasse. F95 Fashion Store at Station-Berlin. 5-8 p.m.: Adidas Originals by Opening 8 p.m.: Turkish designer presentation, Ceremony preview, No. 74, 74 Torstrasse. Voo, 24 Oranienstrasse. 6-9 p.m.: Olaf Hajek Vernissage, Gestalten 8:30 p.m.: ESMOD Berlin, Fashion Shows Space, 21 Sophienstrasse. and Exhibition “Fashioning Fashion 6:30 p.m.: Michael Sontag, MBFWB. — Europäische Moden 1700-1915,” 7 p.m.: Dietrich Emter, studio Deutsches Historisches Museum, 3 Hinter presentation, MBFWB. dem Giesshaus. 7:30 p.m.: Mongrels in Common & Liebig, 8:30 p.m.: Dandy Diary installation/ presentation, MBFWB, Pauly Saal Terrace, Vernissage, Lichtpark, 22-23 11-13 Auguststrasse. Michaelkirchstrasse. 8 p.m.: Intuitive by Cammello Maculato, Jan 8:30-10 p.m.: Escada Summer Cocktail, Kath flagship, 3 Brunnenstrasse. KaDeWe, 21 Tauentzienstrasse. 8 p.m.: A Kind of Guise collaboration launch, 9 p.m.: Projekt Galerie opening party, HBC, Voo, 24 Oranienstrasse. 9 Karl Liebknecht Strasse. 8:30 p.m.: Guido Maria Kretschmer, MBFWB. 10 p.m.: Dandy Diary Fashion Week opening 9 p.m.: Animal Fashion presentation, party, Zirkuszelte, Am Postbahnhof. Pop Up, 25 Gormannstrasse. 10 p.m.: Irina Schrotter, MBFWB. The Tempel of denim at Bread & Butter. WEDNESDAY, JULY 4 9 a.m.-1 p.m.: MCM Press breakfast, Soho FRIDAY, JULY 6 House, 1 Torstrasse. 10 a.m.: Anja Gockel, MBFWB. 9:30 a.m.-noon: SEEK breakfast. 10:30 a.m.: Marc Philippe Coudeyre, studio 10 a.m.: Escada Sport, MBFWB. presentation MBFWB. Show Calendar 10:30 a.m.: 1913Berlin by Yujia Zhai- 11:30 a.m.: Blacky Dress, MBFWB. Petrow, studio presentation, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Hannes Kettritz, MBFWB. Following are the runway and trade show Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte 11:30 a.m.: Lena Hoschek, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Lever Couture, Soho House, 1 Torstrasse. schedules for Berlin Fashion Week. Times and 70 Köpenicker Strasse Noon: G-Star Raw, Bread & Butter. 1-3 p.m.: Vogue Salon, Hotel de Rome, locations are accurate as of press time but Hours: July 3-6, Tuesday, 1 p.m.-6 p.m.; 1 p.m.: Rebekka Ruétz, MBFWB. 37 Behrenstrasse. subject to change, and attendees are encouraged Wednesday and Thursday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; 1:30 p.m.: Augustin Teboul, installation, 1:30 p.m.: Malaikaraiss, MBFWB, Villa to confirm all information. Invitations are required Friday, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. MBFWB, Salon Dahlmann, Elisabeth, 4a Invalidenstrasse. for all MBFWB and most off-site shows. Web: showandorder.de 3 Marburger Strasse. 2 p.m.: Ubi Sunt, studio presentation, MBFWB. U-Bahn: U8 to Heinrich-Heine Strasse 2 p.m.: Barre Noire, studio 3 p.m.: Steven Tai, MBFWB. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Contact: Show & Order GmbH presentation, MBFWB. 4 p.m.: Petra Jewelry Cocktail, Kunstwerke, MBFWB events take place at the tent at Tel.: +49-30-7072-6291 3 p.m.: Dimitri, MBFWB. 69 Auguststrasse. Siegessäule on Strasse des 17. Juni unless 3-5 p.m.: Vladimir Karaleev, presentation, 4:30 p.m.: Kilian Kerner, MBFWB. otherwise noted. The Gallery Location TBA. 5 p.m.: EP-Anoui by Eva Poleschinski, Hours: July 4-7, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Cafe Moskau 4-7 p.m.: DottirDottir pop-up shop opening, studio presentation MBFWB. Web: mercedes-benzfashionweek.com 34 Karl-Marx-Allee Bold Room, 68 Torstrasse. 6 p.m.: Perret Schaad, MBFWB. Bus: 100 to Grosser Stern Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, 4:30 p.m.: Designer for Tomorrow, hosted by 6:30 p.m.: Start Your Fashion Business Contact: IMG 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Marc Jacobs, MBFWB. Award Ceremony (nominees: Blaenk, Blame, Tel.: + 49-30-8892-2890 Web: the-gallery-berlin.com 5:30 p.m.: SoPopular, studio Sissi Goetze), Parochialkirche, U-Bahn: U5 to Schillingstrasse presentation, MBFWB. 67 Klosterstrasse. Bread & Butter Berlin Contact: The Gallery 6 p.m.: Wildfox cocktail event, F95 Fashion 7 p.m.: Patrick Mohr, MBFWB, Babylon, Airport Berlin-Tempelhof Tel.: +49-211-4396-356 Store at Station-Berlin. 30 Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse. 5 Platz der Luftbrücke 6-11 p.m.: La Mode. La Mode/Fashion. 7 p.m.: Cointreau Fashion Têtê-à-Têtê Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Bright Visual Art. Music (through July 8), presents Alexis Mabille, Radialsystem, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Stasi Headquarters, House 18 Opening, L’Atelier-Kunst(spiel)raum, 34 33 Holzmarktstrasse. Web: breadandbutter.com 19 Normannenstrasse Grossbeerenstrasse. 8 p.m.: Frida Weyer, MBFWB. U-Bahn: U6 to Platz der Luftbrücke Hours: July 4-6, Thursday and Friday, 10 6:30 p.m.: Dawid Tomaszewski, MBFWB. 8:30 p.m.: Kunsthochschule Berlin Contact: Bread & Butter GmbH a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 7 p.m.: Basler, Hotel de Rome, 37 Weissensee, MBFWB, Gemäldegalerie, Tel.: +49-30-2000-370 Web: brighttradeshow.com Behrenstrasse. Matthaikirchplatz. U-Bahn: U5 to Magdalenenstrasse 7-10 p.m.: Barbour Heritage store opening, 9 p.m.: Michalsky, MBFWB, Tempodrom, Premium Contact: Bright GmbH 39 Alte Schönhauser Strasse. 10 Möckernstrasse. Station-Berlin Tel.: +49-30-551-519-90 7- 10 p.m.: I Love You Magazine & Marshall 9:30 p.m.: Universität der Künste 4-6 Luckenwalder Strasse Headphones party, Radialsystem V, 33 Berlin, MBFWB. Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Greenshowroom Holzmarktstrasse. 10:30 p.m.: Esther Perbandt, Lavera 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Hotel Adlon 8 p.m.: Kaviar Gauche, MBFWB. Showfloor, Kosmos Kino, 131 Karl-Marx-Allee. Web: premiumexhibitions.com 77 Unter den Linden 8:30 p.m.: Hunkemöller Fashion Show “Girls 11 p.m.: Original. Berlin & Bagua Paris U-Bahn: U1 and U2 to Gleisdreieck Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, on Film,” MBFWB, Berliner Ensemble, 1 Fashion Week party, Flamingo, Kleine Bus: 129 to Schöneberger Strasse 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz. Präsidentenstrasse, S-Bahnbögen 157/158. Contact: Premium Exhibitions GmbH Web: green-showroom.net 9:30 p.m.: Mercedes-Benz and Vogue Tel.: +49-30-208-891-330 U-Bahn: U55 to Brandenburger Tor Fashion Night, MBFWB, Restaurant SATURDAY, JULY 7 S-Bahn: S1, S2 and S25 to Brandenburger Tor Borchardt, 47 Französische Strasse. 10 a.m.: Irene Luft, MBFWB. Seek Contact: Greenshowroom 10 p.m.: Felix Fashion Night presenting Friendly 10:30 a.m.: Andy Wolf/Superated, studio Kühlhaus Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855 Fur and Mila Miyahara, Felix, 72 Behrenstrasse. presentation, MBFWB. 3 Luckenwalder Strasse 11:30 a.m.: Adelina Ivan, Patzaikin, Twenty(2) Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Ethical Fashion Show Berlin THURSDAY, JULY 5 Too (Romanian Designers), MBFWB. 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Ewerk Halle C 10 a.m.: Schumacher, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Minx by Eva Lutz, MBFWB. Web: seekexhibitions.com 43 Wilhelmstrasse 10:30 a.m.: Blame, studio 2 p.m.: Sebastian Ellrich, studio U-Bahn: U1 and U2 to Gleisdreieck Hours: July 4-6; Wednesday and Thursday, presentation, MBFWB. presentation, MBFWB. Bus: 129 to Schöneberger Strasse 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 10:30 a.m.-noon: Achtland, presentation, 3 p.m.: Holy Ghost, MBFWB. Contact: Seek @ Premium Exhibitions GmbH Web: ethicalfashionshowberlin.com Departmentstore Quartier 206, 4:30 p.m.: Bruce Bekrek, Günseli Türkay Zeynep Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511 U-Bahn: U2, U6 to Stadtmitte 71 Friedrichstrasse. Erdogan (Istanbul Next 2012), MBFWB. S-Bahn: S1, S2, S25 to Potsdamer Platz 11:30 a.m.: Rena Lange, MBFWB. 5 p.m.: Sissi Goetze, studio Capsule Contact: Ethical Fashion Show Berlin 1 p.m.: Laurèl, MBFWB. presentation, MBFWB. Postbahnhof Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855 1 p.m.: Benecos and Band Notic 6 p.m.: Miranda Konstantinidou, MBFWB. 8 Strasse der Pariser Kommune Nastic Make-Up Action, ecoShowroom, 8:30 p.m.: Julian Zigerli, “My Daddy Was Hours: July 5-6, Thursday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; White Label 35 Almstadtstrasse. a Military Pilot” presentation, Galerie Cruise Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Max-Schmeling-Halle 1 Falkplatz 1:30 p.m.: Marc Cain, MBFWB, Hotel de & Callas, 187-188 Köpenicker Strasse. Web: capsuleshow.com Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse. 9 p.m.: Fumi Nagasaka movie presentation, S-Bahn: S3, S5, S7, S9, S75 to Ostbahnhof 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 2 p.m.: Issever Bahri, studio Pop Up, 25 Gormannstrasse. Contact: BPMW Web: whitelabelfair.com presentation, MBFWB. 11 p.m.: Gomma Party for Fashion Week, Tel.: 212-206-8310 U-Bahn: U2 to Eberswalder Strasse 3 p.m.: Marcel Ostertag, MBFWB. Flamingo, Kleine Präsidentenstrasse, Show & Order Tram: M1, M10 to Eberswalder Strasse 3:30 p.m.: Green Showroom, MBFWB, Hotel S-Bahnbögen 157/158.

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