Florence City Guide ®

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FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

JANUARY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Dreaming of a white season ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

OVER 140 STORES WITH DISCOUNTS UP TO 70% OFF

DICOER Florence January 2020

V A SI E S T E S E

INSIDER TIPS CASTELLO SESTO 14 the guide apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 20 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI G S E At the Officina . DUPRÈ

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E Profumo-Farmaceutica

VIA ANDREA COSTA Santa Maria Novella you VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano can discover products VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo for personal care with SCONI BO STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE a Florentine spirit. VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A

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The creative liaison VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI F I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S H I A F I E VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA CC E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto between Gucci and T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C starred chef Massimo PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA TOP BRANDS VIA MANTELLINI ENOY 22 Bottura celebrates VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO DE Giorgio Armani IA FAENTINA V VIA DE T fashion and fine cuisine. TODA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIA PANCIATICHI VIALE ASTRONAUTI MAIANO

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO IO C CC C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCA V I A P R A T E S E A I A 38 ENTERTAINMENT V

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V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VI V. ARI O A SAN DO

G TERZOLLE A few kilometres from VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L IA V. F. BARACCA IAZZUOLA N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I P UCCI ME MUGNONE N I IC VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Florence you can treat Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace O R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP ENTINA VIA DELAL VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze A O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria OGNESE PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I I A F VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA V L V AI D IN O V O L I yourself to a luxury VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II V I A B O L CIO V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

BOCCAC V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA wellbeing experience at VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE NNI V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I A DI MONTUGHI LA

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA GIOV VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IA IAZZUO TERZOLLE V VIALE DELLA Asmana Wellness World. V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE DINING Convento Frati Cappuccini D PIAZZA V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA DEL TERZOLLE IA 32 P.TTA V. C SA VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI I N Gucci Osteria da Massimo BotturaChiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa AS O D A P IS T O IA San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I V

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VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA GUGLIELMO M 40 SIGHTSEEINGA VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZE VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA & MUSEUMS VIA PALA LL I VIA FAENTINA I NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C O VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

LEOPOLDO FORBICI TI E RSALI D'ORO TI . V T O R OI E M A N U E L EI E

V L The Museum BB Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI F. . G A I N N I V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI CA Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R of San Marco holds NI V I A G . B A R B E R A JANUARY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Parrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T

the largest collection IO I O S T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M G LARGO ILANE Madre della

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V IA M A R A G L IA N O SI CANTÙ 5 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 18 NATURE AND ART in the world of works IA V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO V

E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E O BO LUDOVICO ANTONIO V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue Suggestions for trips outside I A MUGNONE U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI by Beato Angelico. OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. the city that are able to satisfy C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI Dreaming of PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E a white season O FIB VITTORIA ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO 44 VX I ESSENTIALS TO VIA M L G anyVIA ANTONneed: FRANCESCO DONI cities of art, dreamy . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA al Romito V AI HI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI T OI VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI V LARGO V. MAD RA Information and tips PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze countryside, natural thermal VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E 8 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BAND

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE OVER 140 STORES V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI WITH DISCOUNTS UP TO 70% OFF PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A INI to experience the N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. NT PIAZZA IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art springs and medievalRE DItowns. SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA best thatGiardino FILIPP Florence A S V AI FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, traditional events V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER IMAGE BY ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino has to offer. L VIA DEI CA I A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA VALDICHIANA OUTLET and music. AC A 22 TOP BRANDS O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte VILLAGE. I V I A C A V O E PIAZZA V V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI The best fashion designers O LE VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R Franchi MONTIGNANO The ice rink in Piazza RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G Maggiore at Valdichiana C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M for your high-end shopping. INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia GIFTPasserella dell'IsolottoGUIDE B B AI VIA D 13 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI OutletVIA MASSA Village is open until A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A Sunday 26 January.VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Take advantage of your stay di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO in Florence to enjoy a pick L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I FASHION OUTLETS A LARGO L 30 G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A of the best high-quality items.A R N O Several of the best shopping S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U destinations not far fromV IA M O N T E B E L L O Florence, Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E offering discounts year-round. terina da Palazzo VI INI FLORENCE, FASHION CITY a VI 14 .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO

Santa Maria Novella I G C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria A O R I E L I M VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI VEL E’ VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS S . L U C I A Teatro D Università V I A IN NANDO MART VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C L F MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze AGR DPO ' I PIAZZA V. O Pucci Lucia LI VI A N I VIA GIOVANNI BOV The Tuscan capital marked Z TONIO SCIALOJA O VIA PALESTRO VIA DELL'AL VIA MARSALA sul Prato EN P. BATONI R AN VI OLI A DELL’A RTELLI Chiesa E MAZZ www.magzter.com A A Polimoda I M Santa Maria

V IA D E L L A S VIA DEL GIGLIO ’ O MENOTTI Parrocchiale T VIA AN LO LL CAS VI PIAZZA N Maddalena dei Pazzi V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI O ZA Teatro RI IR Sacro Cuore VIA FERDI STA VICO VIA MONTEBELLO RO SEPP PIAZZA CO V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I N ETTI RGO S VIA DENiccolini TI E’ VIA TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA O GIU A C VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O D B VIA DEI SER RINI AT A I

NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O a fundamental stage in the VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI TOP HOTEL NOVELLA L VI VIA BRONZINO36 V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR D Santommaso T LU CI A PI VIA BRONZINO DE V. A VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei A V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A Italian fashion system at di San LE IL OBERDAN issuu.com/where-italia VIA I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA RESTAURANTS Santi Michele D VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA OMA V P O CH AS VIA TITO SPERI Paolino EL A C V.CANONICA e Gaetano V ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO DE E R T

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 40 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES Dear Visitor, Top in town 46-47 Welcome to Florence! PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 3 Our country has been a world tourism destination T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 for more than 500 years, even before the word [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/florence ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF more than one billion tourists travel throughout Andrea Jarach [email protected]) the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited Andrea Jarach country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. EDITORIAL Publisher And it’s not a coincidence. MANAGING DIRECTOR Where® Daniele Misrachi If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know ([email protected]) why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the MANAGING EDITOR other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be Alessandra Finzi ([email protected]) your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and CONTRIBUTORS enjoy the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that Chiara Zaccarelli 6 2

the diversity of this unique country is embodied within just a few ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock

kilometers: from the north to the south, from the east to the west, CARTOGRAPHY from the sea to the mountains, from the countryside to the art cities. City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - Don’t forget that only a few kilometers from where you are now, © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 you can enjoy the experiences of a lifetime. MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, To make sure you don’t miss them, consult Where®. Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni We’re in love with Italy and we want to share this love with you. ([email protected]) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto The Publisher ([email protected])

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,

SALES SUPPORT MANAGER SHUTTERSTOCK Paola Grilli ([email protected])

SEASON MOOD IN FLORENCE HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER PHOTOS © Maria Granata ([email protected]) DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the 1 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences is a symbol known all over the world. most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, January in Florence is a quiet period, when visits to museums and artistic sites are more pleasant MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill.

LANDSCAPE NATURE PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM LANDSCAPE NATURE and relaxing. Clear skies blown in by the tramontana north wind and bitter cold can suddenly turn

© MVP EXECUTIVE PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most the damp rainy climate on its head. And if you feel the cold when walking in the street, you can CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens always resort to the appropriate street food: warm lampredotto, caldarroste, castagnaccio. PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV 4 6

PHOTO This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari in the world. MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

4 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA

David’s house

Located in Via Ricasoli, on the site where two ancient convents once stood – the male one of San Matteo and the female one of San Niccolò di Cafaggio –, the Accademia Gallery exhibits the largest number of sculptures by Michelangelo in the world, including the very famous David. It was built at the wishes of Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo in 1784 as a place of study for the students at the nearby Academy of Fine Arts. The core of original works already possessed two large original plaster models by Giambologna, a series of modern plaster casts of classical works and a collection of paintings that was soon enriched with prestigious paintings coming from convents, monasteries and other religious institutions. In 1872 it was decided to place Michelangelo’s David there, removing it from its original position in the open air in Piazza della Signoria, where it ran the risk of damage due to vandalism and bad weather. A scenographic new tribune was specially built for the statue, located at the end of the Gallery of Ancient Paintings, with lighting from above guaranteed by a skylight. The Accademia Gallery also conserves a collection of panels with gilded frames by Florentine masters of the 13th and 16th centuries and a collection of Russian icons. The recently acquired Museum of Musical Instruments is also part of the Accademia Gallery; the museum boasts a violin that belonged to Stradivari and the oldest vertical piano in existence today. Today the Accademia Gallery is the most visited museum in the Tuscan capital, after the Uffizi Gallery, and is also among the most visited in Italy. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it ALESSANDRO COLLE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO ©

6 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

BAROQUE

THE GREAT DIRECTOR 27 1 OF THE NOVEMBER MARCH RENAISSANCE 2019 2020 At the Uffizi, the very first exhibition to be devoted to Pietro Aretino (1492-1556), the multi-faceted intellectual of the 16th century, a poet with a scathing satirical pen, adviser to the powerful, discoverer of artists. Best known for his scandalous “Sonetti lussuriosi”, Aretino was one of the most authoritative cultural voices of the 16th century. The over 100 works that are on display – including paintings, sculptures, writings and precious objects, also thanks to important loans from international museums – tell of the fervent cultural world of the first half of the 16th century: the Rome of the Medici Popes, the Mantua of the Gonzagas, the Venice of Doge Andrea Gritti, the Florence of Dukes Alessandro and Cosimo I, but also Urbino, Perugia, Arezzo and Milan.

Pietro Aretino and the Art of Renaissance The Uffizi Galleries, Aula Magliabechiana. Piazzale degli Uffizi www.uffizi.it

JANUARY AGENCE BULLOZ/RMN-RÈUNION DES MUSÈES NATIONAUX/DISTR. ALINARI AGENCE BULLOZ/RMN-RÈUNION DES MUSÈES NATIONAUX/DISTR. ©

Raffaello and Giulio Romano, Portrait of a young woman (1510-20ca.), Musée des Beaux-Arts, Strasbourg. Right: Giuseppe Porta, known as Salviati, Raising of Lazarus Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting (1540-45), Fondazione Cini, Venezia. an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

8 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

PHOTOGRAPHY SHOPPING FOLKLORE PICASSO AND WOMEN SALE TIME! ◄ The unusual bond of friendship between THE THREE KINGS ▼ Florence is Pablo Picasso and Edward Quinn enabled the OF THE TRADITION undoubtedly the great photographer – one of the few who were perfect destination ▼ An official feast day in Italy, the Epiphany 5 15 for visiting museums accepted by the Spanish genius – to photograph 6 commemorates the arrival of the Magi, the JANUARY MARCH and monuments, him at work and in his private life. The exhibition JANUARY Three Kings, in Bethlehem to pay homage to the for finding art and good food, but in the first month of – which includes around eighty photographs newborn baby Jesus. The event is celebrated the year it is also the right place to take advantage of the taken over a twenty-year period – tells of an in Florence with an ancient tradition dating back to 1417: a winter sales. From 5 January sophisticated boutiques, intimate and private Picasso, revealing his huge, long parade in period costumes to evoke the arrival stylists’ showrooms, the major brands’ stores and, of complex relationship with the world of women: of the three wise men with their gifts – gold, frankincense and course, the outlets, are all closely the great master is portrayed with his women, myrrh – followed by more than 700 characters, including lords watched and scoured by lovers and friends, with his children, the fruit of and ladies, knights, farmers, soldiers and religious figures. A fashion addicts, credit many different passions over the years, but also small live nativity tableau is staged in Piazza del Duomo, while cards in hand. So with the many friends and acquaintances who the Company of Drummers and Flag-bearers will provide keep an eye on Via de’ populated his canvases, as well as sumptuous entertainment along the route and in Piazza della Signoria. feast tables and beaches by the sea. Tornabuoni and the An unconventional and authentic image of the THE PARADE OF THE MAGI streets of the centre... artist through the images of one of the leading The procession begins at 2pm from Palazzo Pitti and crosses the Ponte and don’t miss a visit to photographers of the 20th century. Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, to Piazza del Duomo. the outlets just a few kilometers from the Picasso. L’altra metà del cielo city! 30 1 Foto di Edward Quinn

NOVEMBER MARCH Museo Mediceo, Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Via Cavour,1 Photo Edward Quinn © edwardquinn.com 2019 2020 www.palazzomediciriccardi.it

FASHION 7 10 JANUARY OPERA DEL DUOMO / CLAUDIO GIOVANNINI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PRESENTING MALE ELEGANCE © © ► An unmissable event in the world of men’s fashion at the Fortezza da Basso Pitti Uomo presents the men’s fashion trends for the coming fall/winter season, with clothing and CLASSICAL accessories by the most famous and upcoming international brands. This edition sees the return of Karl Lagerfeld with the brand KARL RICCARDO MUTI AT THE and the exhibition “A Tribute to Karl: The MAGGIO FIORENTINO White Shirt Project”, with a personalised ► Second Italian date of the European edition of the iconic white shirt created by 20 tour by the prestigious Chicago artists, actors, models, designers and friends. JANUARY Symphony Orchestra, the concert at Even though the fair is reserved for operators, the Teatro del Maggio Musicale-Opera over the four days when it takes place, di Firenze offers a highly attractive programme: from “Mathis collateral events, parades and installations are der Maler” by Paul Hindemith to “Symphony No. 3” by Sergei organised involving the whole city, often with Prokofiev. Conducting is the great Maestro Riccardo Muti, entry free of charge. who has been Musical Director of the Chicago Symphony Pitti Immagine Uomo 97 Orchestra for ten years now. “New inputs for a conscious fashion” Riccardo Muti / Chicago Symphony Orchestra Fortezza da Basso. Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 www.pittimmagine.com www.maggiofiorentino.com

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TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE

6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY ◄ BOTTEGA VENETA CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT The brand presents a new bag A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near with a contemporary touch when Three Wise Men brought gifts flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai the church of Orsanmichele, in which the for Pre-Spring 2020: ‘BV Twist’, of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the a triangular clutch bag to be worn Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes city, is venerated. in Piazza della Signoria. GUIDE on the wrist, with a large knot place wearing splendid fifteenth-century on the handle. With clasp at the costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST We’ve compiled a short guide back and geometrical panel motif, it is available in various colours PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO offering ideas for him and for and materials, including this A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a her. A great opportunity to new woven Cloudy Suede. commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine spend some pleasant moments www.bottegaveneta.com Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to browsing the boutiques in The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, the centre of Florence, while known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. enjoying its beauties. ► POMELLATO END OF SEPTEMBER Iconica’s sensual curves 23 MAY are sculpted into daring LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO new jewellery items that A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the combine gold and put colourful

RITRATTO DI ANNA MARIA LUISA CON I FIORI, OPERA ANTONIO FRANCHI, C. 1682–1683. RITRATTO outstanding products of the territory. ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI burning at the stake of Dominican preacher twists on jewellery settings: Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial Concomitant entertainment events are the rings sparkle with a rainbow also held to mark the occasion. figure in the city’s history. A wreath of of gem colours set into the star, flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to triangle, oval and square shapes 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which that distinguish the collection. ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from www.pomellato.com ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. Celebration of the last heir of the Medici dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO ◄ ELENA MIRÒ

some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza SHUTTERSTOCK.COM A large printed scarf with free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of precious fabric with modal St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of and wool. For this season the city. Highly competitive, it combines PHOTO © FESTA DI SAN LORENZO the Italian clothing brand 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as for curvy women proposes the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO garments and accessories made teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated of precious fabrics with shades White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER since before the advent of the Gregorian ranging from brown to mauve Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA Calendar (1582), with a parade through ▲EMILIO PUCCI and green. www.elenamiro.com and Blue from Santa Croce. At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the the central streets of the city in historical Emilio Pucci pays homage costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it to the firm’s heritage with a limited was thanks to the miraculous intercession reissue of plates and vases created EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines together with Rosenthal, bringing succeeded in repelling the siege of the their collaboration between 1961 SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked and 1977 back to life. The collection A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. is composed of eleven pieces. ◄ ST ORIGAMI tradition that dates back to the time www.emiliopucci.com A real ‘work of art’, this reproduction of the Crusades. A procession with of the Duomo has been created percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER to decorate greeting cards. historical costumes, city officials A technique that combines the and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI ancient art of origami with the accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” vibrancy of a pop-up movement. to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities www.storigami.it set alight. CALCIO STORICO to wish them good luck during the festivities.

12 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Florence, fashion city Florence and fashion. An inseparable pairing, but one of which many are unaware. Yet the Tuscan capital, as well as being the birthplace of many famous stylists, also marked a fundamental stage in the establishing of the Italian fashion system at world level and today still boasts luxurious boutiques, museums and avant-garde fashion schools.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

ilan, New York, Paris. on the international When we talk of the panorama, brought great capitals of fashion, together under the we certainly do not Pitti Immagine think of Florence. Yet brand. But let us what today is the Italian proceed in order fashionM system was officially born right and look in detail at here. With the fashion parade organised in the role the city has February 1951 by Giovanni Battista Giorgini, played in the evolution who exploited the period of newfound of Italian fashion and positivity following the war to bring together what the places and a series of journalists and international buyers unmissable events are for in Florence, Italian haute couture was in fashion addicts visiting fact born. But not only that: Florence is the Florence today. homeland of stylists of world calibre, such as Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Emilio Pucci, Enrico Coveri, Roberto Cavalli and The first group Ermanno Scervino, who began their brilliant fashion show careers right here. Pitti Uomo is the most Today it hosts prestigious museums of In the 1940s there was no true clothing important International fashion, academies, schools and luxurious industry in existence in Italy and in provincial event for menswear and men boutiques by the most famous Italian stylists, cities and towns people placed their trust accessories collections. all concentrated in Via de’ Tornabuoni and in tailors, who created made-to-measure On the right: an outfit from the Emilio Pucci’s Via della Vigna Nuova, without forgetting garments. In Florence, however, the lively Fall-Winter 2019/20 the excellent artisan shops, above all those artisan and cultural fabric very soon fashion show. of leather goods, which are mainly to be became a fertile terrain for the birth of Italian found in the Santa Croce area. Furthermore, buying offices. Standing out among the every year Florence hosts a series of fashion first buyers was Giovanni Battista Giorgini, events that are among the most prestigious who had the idea of giving a high profile

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organically to the image of a country in of their native city high. In 1921 Guccio of Italian fashion of the 1950s and ‘60s. During full economic recovery. It was necessary Gucci, an Italian emigrant who had worked his life, Emilio Pucci applied his creativity to to demonstrate the Italians’ mastery and in a number of luxury hotels in Paris and the most disparate fields: for example, he creativity, and this was realised by means London, opened a series of small designed the coat of arms for the spacesuits of group fashion shows. For this reason, leather goods shops. The world of the NASA astronauts for the Apollo mission in February 1951, Giorgini promoted of reference was the equestrian and the uniforms for the air hostesses, pilots a parade of Italian fashion at Palazzo one: horsebits, stirrups and canvas and staff of Braniff International Airways, Torrigiani, bringing together the most girth straps became symbols of an as well as the uniforms of the Italian local famous tailors of the time, in front of a Italian-style luxury with products police, with their long white gloves and rather small number of foreign of high artisan quality strongly oval helmets. In the meantime, the stylist’s buyers. The initiative achieved associated with the activities were extending to male fashion, such success that it was territory. Gucci’s renown to perfumes, to homewear. Emilio Pucci replicated every year, and from quickly spread, and in passed away in 1992 and, following 1938 he opened his first the decease of his son Alessandro, the boutiques in Milan and control of the brand was inherited by his Rome, and subsequently daughter Laudomia, who still runs the in the USA. One by one fashion house. The Pucci boutique is also the items that today to be found in Via de’ Tornabuoni. are still considered the (www.emiliopucci.com). cornerstones of the brand were born and by the design house is displayed on a with the event, vernissages, grand galas, and numerous stars Museums rotational basis, in addition to photographs, presentations, parades, society events and of Hollywood and of fashion newspapers, drawings and wooden parties involving the whole city are organised, Studying entertainment, such models of a number of celebrities’ feet which unfortunately are often only accessible as Audrey Hepburn, The city boasts the only Italian museum (www.ferragamo.com/museo/en/usa). by invitation (www.pittimmagine.com). fashion in Jackie Kennedy and devoted to fashion and its history: the Other museums are the Fondazione Arte The fulcrum of the various stages of the event Maria Callas, begin to Museum of Fashion and Costume, located della Seta Lisio, which carries forward the is the Fortezza da Basso, which from the Florence wear Gucci items. From the in Palazzina della Meridiana, beside the ancient tradition of hand-weaving silk, gold 1980s onwards has replaced the Sala Bianca Attending a short course or spending the 1990s onwards the greatest southern wing of Palazzo Pitti. It boasts a and silver (www.fondazionelisio.org) and, as the official exhibition centre for Florentine summer studying fashion and design in names in fashion have followed collection of more than 6,000 items, including as regards goldsmithery, the Museo degli fashion. Located close to the station of Santa the cradle of the Renaissance? A dream each other in running the vintage suits and dresses, accessories Argenti, the Silver Museum, at Palazzo Pitti Maria Novella, it is a huge Renaissance military that can become reality in one of the fashion house: from Tom Ford and theatre and movie costumes (www.imuseidifirenze.it). construction. Unfortunately it is not visitable many fashion schools present in Florence. to Frida Giannini, to current (www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti/museo-della- Finally, a few kilometres from Florence, in the except on the occasion of extraordinary For example, the Polimoda School, creative director Alessandro moda-e-del-costume). city of Prato, there is the interesting Museo openings (www.firenzefiera.it). an institute qualified in the training Michele. If you have been Then there is the Gucci Garden in the del Tessuto, the Museum of Fabric, one of Another important exhibition centre chosen of fashion professionals and in overcome by the uncontrollable palazzo that hosted the Tribunale della the most important museums at national for Pitti Immagine is the Stazione Leopolda, the many other sectors that are desire to buy a Gucci garment or Mercanzia, overlooking Piazza della Signoria. and European level on the history and a former railway station, which today has connected to it, is based here accessory, the brand’s Florentine The museum displays the historic models of development of the weaving from antiquity become the container of choice for events (www.polimoda.com). flagship store is in Via Tornabuoni the Florentine fashion house, from luggage to the present day (www.museodeltessuto.it). and exhibitions. The station is almost entirely Also present is the Italian Academy (www.gucci.com). to accessories, to suits and dresses. structured into a single space under a of Art, Fashion and Design,

© FABIO GAMBINA © FABIO Museo Salvatore Ferragamo Florence after the Second World Inside it there is also the metallic roof structure divided into two spans an international institute that War also saw the establishing of the restaurant Gucci Osteria Pitti Immagine (www.stazione-leopolda.com). holds courses in fashion styling, reputation of Salvatore Ferragamo. da Massimo Bottura, fashion event industrial design, graphics and visual the fourth year onwards it was moved to the In the 1920s a boy from Campania which has just been communication, photography, drawing Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti. The Florentine appeared on the international scene who, awarded a Michelin Every year Florence hosts a series of and painting and window-dressing, Fashion Shows played a fundamental role thanks to his doggedness, landed in America, star (www.gucci. fashion events that are among the most which also organises short courses in the establishing of the new sector of soon becoming the cobbler to the movie com/it/it/store/ prestigious on the international panorama, and summer sessions. Its main packaged ranges and accessories, both artisan stars, to then return to his home country osteria-bottura). brought together under the umbrella of Pitti headquarters is in Piazza Pitti and industrial in nature. and settle in Florence. Here, in 1927, he Let us not forget Immagine. The festival is composed of various FASHION HIGHLIGHTS (www.accademiaitaliana.com). If you are founded a fashion house associated with the already sector fairs, including Pitti Immagine Uomo, interested in the ancient art of working Side page, the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, the production of women’s shoes. In 1938, cited Salvatore Pitti Immagine Bimbo, Pitti Immagine Filati leather, then the School of Leather is for The great florentine with production strongly on the increase, Ferragamo and Pitti Immagine Fragranze, and hosts and an outfit from the Salvatore Ferragamo’s you; it is located in Piazza Santa Croce fashion designers Ferragamo acquired Palazzo Spini Feroni, Museum, in thousands of exhibitions, fashion parades Fall-Winter 2019/20 fashion show. and holds courses and workshops. Finally, which he turned into his company’s Palazzo Spini- and congresses by the most important Italian Left, Marchese Pucci’s daughter, Laudomia. the Florentine centre of the IED Fashion Gucci, Pucci and Ferragamo: three names headquarters (www.ferragamo.com). Feroni in Via and international stylists and fashion houses. Above: Gucci Garden and Gucci’s Ophidia Lab organises three-year post-diploma that decreed the birth of Italian fashion, And what can we say about Emilio Pucci, de’ Tornabuoni, Among these the most eagerly awaited is shoulder bag, a contemporary classic that courses, masters and courses inventing three different styles that have known as the “marquis of colours”? He did where a part of Pitti Immagine Uomo, which is held twice of specialisation in fashion design, as contributed to the increased appreciation of not restrict himself to designing, but even the collection of a year, in January and in June, coinciding boasts two emblems of the brand: the antiqued well as summer and evening classes Tuscan craftsmanship. Still points of reference invented fabrics on which he printed multi- the over 10,000 with the launch of new collections by the golden GG Marmont hardware, and the timeless (www.ied.it/professione/ied-moda-firenze). worldwide today, they keep the reputation coloured patterns destined to become icons shoes created major players in men’s fashion. In parallel green and red web stripe down the center.

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seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills”

The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the articles personally to combine with and complete 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, most popular luxury brands are grouped under her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 the separate category “Top Brands”, which elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Brunello Cucinelli stocking items and rarities for collectors or Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed aficionados in specific product categories, are up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children the standard shopping sections. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the for newborns, children and youngsters using the generally included in the price of goods. production of high-quality cashmere knitwear best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible and today boasts top-level production with total to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. TAX-FREE SHOPPING look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat and exported from the EU: before finalizing defining itself as “a humanistic company”. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). From nature to cosmetics € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a place where you can discover products for personal care with a Florentine spirit, finds its natural location in the convent of the same name. By Giulia Minero SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio Il Bisonte shop-workshop or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a id you know that the oldest historical which has kept its original wooden furnishings >> Via della Scala, 16 separate category. The information provided pharmacy in Europe is in Florence? and stucco decorations intact, those wishing T: 055 216276. Map D2 on museums and monuments is verified as Il Bisonte, style made in Tuscany A pharmacy since 1381 and later an to immerse themselves in an experience of www.smnovella.com meticulously as possible. However, data such as D telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and apothecary run by the Dominican monks of yesteryear can find ancient preparations, herbal The Florentine boutique Il Bisonte opens its doors to lovers of the highest-quality the accessibility of sites are all subject to leather goods, revealing a huge collection of accessories with timeless charm. The Santa Maria Novella, of which it occupies the teas and herbalist products, typical specialties change, on a seasonal basis and also due to chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari, in and liqueurs alongside antique scientific restoration work, museum loans or changes elegant shop in the heart of the historic Palazzo Corsini contains the collections by the 1848 the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di materials such as thermometers, mortars, of management. Ask your concierge historic leather goods and accessories company founded by Wanny Di Filippo. Since 1970, his creations, hand-made by expert Tuscan artisans, are distinguished by their Santa Maria Novella abandoned its ancient measuring scales and scoops. On the other hand, ENTERTAINMENT vocation to become a perfumery and herbalist’s the Sala Verde (Green Room), which at one time Several venues offering food are included in uniqueness. The high-quality hides used, in fact - first and foremost naturally tanned shop where today products for personal care was a distillates laboratory, is the ideal place to this section. These are considered as meeting cowhide - take on a different appearance with sunlight and with use, becoming truly are prepared based on the use of precious discover unusual gifts such as perfume diffusers places rather than gourmet addresses and thus unique pieces. The material of choice of the brand is “vacchetta” cowhide, a high- explain our decision to list them here rather medicinal plants. Under a nineteenth-century for the home, wax products, accessories quality leather worked using the natural technique of vegetable tanning, an ancient than under “Dining”. vault, embellished by frescos representing the and decorative items. Today, as in the past, all procedure that makes it possible to obtain a product that is particukarly soft, resistant four continents to symbolise the Pharmacy’s the products are made using medicinal herbs All details are correct at the time of going to and perfumed at the same time. Bags, briefcases, travel accessories, wallets, notebooks press but several details can change: ask your worldwide renown, an abundance of perfumes, and essences cultivated in the Garden of Santa and belts, all have the same attention to detail in common, both in their design and in concierge to double-check all information. soaps and cosmetics are to be found. Moving Maria Novella in the nearby Città di Castello and their various production phases. Via Del Parione, 31-33r. www.ilbisonte.com on to the Antica Spezieria (Old Apothecary), processed using age-old artisan techniques.

20 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com MAX MARA— Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- it.maxmara.com. Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. Open Mon-Sat Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat T: 055 219041. Map E3 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei 11am-7pm. Via de’ ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA sneakers from the Couture Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 collection: the ‘Tiziano’ model is a perfect example 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • of refined, hand-crafted details. Created by François Demacy, the perfumer-creator Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am- Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. at DIOR , the eau de parfum ‘Joy by Dior’ has notes 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. of citrus fruit, rose, jasmine, sandalwood and vanilla. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open T: 055 290284. Map F3 T: 055 210856. Map F3 www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli MISSONI—www.misson.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- T: 055 212995. Map E4 Map E3 Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77- 79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. T: 055 216227. Map F3 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- T: 055 2608931. Map F3 DOLCE&GABBANA— HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. MONCLER—www.moncler.com. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. T: 055 287931. Map E4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. T: 055 294909. Map F4 Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Map E3 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com.

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com T: 055 2398688. Map E4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Map E3 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. T: 055 219179. Map E3 Map E4 Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; T: 055 288539. Map E3 Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. PRADA—www. prada.com. T: 055 218275. Map F4 T: 055 264254. Map E3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. T: 055 267471 Map E3 Map E3 Map D3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat Open daily 10am-7pm. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3 T: 055 9040100. Map E3 T: 055 285832. Map F3 FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 2382883. Map F4 T: 055 292123. Map E4

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4

CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open A style not trapped by rules and trends. That is what the Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection by ALBERTA Conceived for those seeking an elegant, dynamic accessory, Perfect for this season, the woollen yarn and Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. FERRETTI expresses: garments and accessories that liberate daywear from predictable solutions to return to this GIORGIO ARMANI soft powder pink leather backpack cashmere crew neck sweater by MAX MARA Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. glamour and gleams of light. A style, which perfectly expresses the personality of the contemporary woman. is characterised by its embossed maxi logo. is in a delicate sandy colour. T: 055 292347. Map E4

22 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. FINE ART Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. Antico Setificio Fiorentino www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Galanti The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon- as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken also to its famous warping machine based on a design Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made been producing some of the most sumptuous silk jams. Everything made with extra-virgin olive oil and Annamaria Cammilli brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti. A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della it has been present with its creations in shop Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map windows and display cases all over the world for L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Giumella Galleria Romanelli unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for VEGAN With recipes based on the products The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often Cover for vases or bottles made of foldable of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen precious sculpture artwork for six generations in drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. hand-sewn textile paper with gold leaf print: offers organic zero miles food, made the same one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; it is part of the Mediterranean Collection day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, and is on sale at LUISAVIAROMA. seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan a meeting place for buyers and artists, where 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with sculptors and their students carry out their work daily water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on Aprosio RICHARD GINORI 1735 ANTICO SETIFICIO surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work Italian style and international trends. www. walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and See this page. FIORENTINO See this page. is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. creates jewellery accessories and products for replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: 393 8221084. Off Map decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri Via dei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2 and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 Pegna Elena Mirò Société Anonyme Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 2396 0 47. Map C4 Torchio (Il) With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy An independent shop of North-European conception 055 210127. Map E2 Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been inspired by the underground atmospheres of the Leone Cei & Sons tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and Cassetti 1926 synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in with refined materials such as Florentine leather, international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models devising new artisan articles with contemporary products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme from a rare and abundant archive. The production, materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via that develops innovative projects with its own artisan expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district entirely made in Florence, is destined for private com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3 collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s Signorvino work is performed rigorously by hand following Map G6 T: 055 2657725. Map F3 and women’s collection that is only sold in-store In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, Damiani traditional procedures and using natural products and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a Giovanni Raspini and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. FOOD & WINE SHOPS from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same long goldsmithing tradition which it has always In the beating heart of the fashion district, the to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. Caffè 1926 formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a It also does simple quality food from the various refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is or produced on request and based on customers’ selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized Stefano Ricci designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with antiques and on the reproduction of period items. amidst little tables and large windows. Huge 9.30am-midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the T: 055 286258. Map F5 admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited in short, are the values of the company founded in Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after-supper, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Map D3 crafted white bronze creations, always having a style in its second generation, has become a successful also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. JEWELLERY & WATCHES Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 that is midway between minimalism and classicism international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and Papiro (Il) Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). Angela Caputi Giuggiù Dodo as the common denominator. From the design to the high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces T: 055 2346296. Map L2 COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine Enoteca Bonatti throughout the world. Sophisticated, original by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine creations made from unusual materials such as plastic collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, represents Italian excellence all over the world, making photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from and resin, combined to create unique objects both in pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian to a line of classic leather accessories. www. all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm- Luisaviaroma France. www.enotecabonatti.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- used as accessories by famous television and film Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of Map E4 territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio 6499151. Map G1 by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global Pitti Mosaici district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. purchasing experience: instead of displaying the tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. garments, they have been replaced with interactive semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items Map E3 In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed to provide coverings for walls, framed items and known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, DEPARTMENT STORES of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. entire made-to-measure residential projects all over 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 Rinascente Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat Marina Rinaldi In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to international customers, are genuinely unique pieces 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home 055 282127. Map E6 of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide and design items. For women, proposals of the best it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items range of collections, featuring both contemporary Italian and international brands range from the classic Richard Ginori 1735 and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart Tradition and excellence in the high-quality basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard www.angelacaputi.com and accessories for a total look that exudes class shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat still produces accessories for the table and living Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 from Florence) using ancient working techniques.

24 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, The best shopping Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and Tax Free luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious Refund Guide jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. and services, and is part of the European Union’s T: 055 212075. Map E3 value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Massai Orafi Not only perfumes, colognes, fragrances for the home VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith environment and artisan soaps, but candles too are Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. produced by the AQUAFLOR Firenze laboratory. Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made • you are a non-EU resident; pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines • the goods purchased are intended for personal or and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the family use only and are carried in your luggage; workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of LEATHER • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, Cuoieria Fiorentina 154,94 Euro (VAT included); carving and engraving traditions typical of the From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of invoice • the purchase is certified by an . This invoice Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of should include a description of the goods purchased, Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products your personal information as well as the details of 055 294800. Map F4 are created with extreme care and top-quality natural

your passport or any other equivalent document; materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel Officine Panerai bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the for him and for her, offering excellent value for third month after the month that you bought them; fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts money. Another strong point is the personalization • several specific customs formalities are a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and complied with; designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working requirements of customers, who can count Michelle • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. first floor is devoted to special sales and another is within four months after the purchase was made. it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker be shown at the customs exit point when leaving is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share Gianni Chiarini EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary BEFORE checking in). San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: the ideal place A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the to shop for the best in fashion, accessories, beauty and design, the original invoice , regularly endorsed by the In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open where the renovation is in progress. The store has recently customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 opened at the second floor a new remarkable area must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; dedicated to men’s collections and shoes. the second floor has a fully equipped customer care Il Bisonte 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. The Rinascente department store in Florence, products devoted entirely to women’s Free” sign in its window). T: 055 2741044. Map F5 Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand- located in Piazza della Repubblica, which fashion. A new guise for the department 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, Tiffany & Co. immediate VAT cash refunds belts and other accessories epitomising the best of has been the commercial heart of the city store, which proposes, side-by-side, clothes when the goods Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on since the Roman Age, is spread over a total for her from accessible luxury and advanced leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly the passenger from having to return the invoice to beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the area of 3,300 square metres with seven contemporary brands, ready to wear options, the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and lingerie, bags, fragrances, jewellery, sunglasses, major international airports or main border crossings. ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale shoes from luxury brands as well as urban Most major department stores have Tax Free purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and around the peninsula, the space is giving style sneakers. Refund offices . rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. its look a makeover to make shopping even Don’t miss the brand-new second floor, with 8. PASSION SHOPPING The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun more captivating and engrossing. The thread all the best of men’s clothing and shoes. the payment of a small administrative sum which AquaFlor 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. running through that is driving the renovation Foodies can enjoy the “Tosca&Nino, the is directly deducted from the amount of VAT Map C4 A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of of the Florentine store is artisanship, a taste of tradition” restaurant and bar, refunded to the traveller. Vacheron Constantin Boutique 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, concept that is very dear to the city. The open from breakfast till after dinner, which In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A within a reasonable period of time, he or she restyling involves all the store’s spaces and will focuses on rigorously selected Tuscan Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno be completed towards the end of 2020. After products to enable you to rediscover the should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com aforementioned companies. The façade of the boutique is also known for the Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, the restoration of the fourth floor, offering a pleasure of local food, from pappa tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 transversal shopping experience combining al pomodoro to ribollita. and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient directly by customs offices. fashion, quality craftsmanship, design, beauty oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the Dr. Vranjes STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund Home fragrances and elegant furnishing control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. products and food, the third floor featuring Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, accessories made by hand in Florence for more the Women’s Clothing and the Women’s ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica. 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Shoes areas truly is a hotbed for artisanal Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113.

26 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

and the headquarters of the Florentine home Marioluca Giusti Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica fragrance company founded and managed by A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant di Santa Maria Novella the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and design objects for the table and more besides, in a UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- Maria. In addition to the traditional production glass and melamine collections are enhanced every Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the year with new models with colour shades ranging convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has brand has diversified its production with linen, from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours been open to the public for over four centuries cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, by important international personalities such as the products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. single brand stores and represent a production par 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls excellence on account of their quality raw materials • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova former splendour thanks to restoration work. www. Map l3 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2

The Merchant of Venice NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm- 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

SHOES Aquazzura Valdichiana Outlet Village Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically between shopping and culture European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies in one of the most beautiful, worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European distinctive and evocative corners of Tuscany, between the provinces of Arezzo and Siena, royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. a short distance from fabulous locations such as Cortona and Montepulciano and at the www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and the Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4 Siena-Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a typical Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion and sport, Salvatore Ferragamo in addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much more besides. Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% throughout the year, company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the all amounting to a complete, high-quality commercial offer. For example, it is possible to find site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, The Bridge, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique Us Polo Assn and many more besides. occupies the entire ground floor of the building, During the month of January, Valdichiana Outlet Village becomes even more convenient, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century with winter sales and unbelievable discounts on outlet prices, transforming purchases into frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto an extraordinary event. Furthermore, until 3 May 2020 it will be possible to visit the “China Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line Legends” exhibition, where on display are 34 official reproductions of statues of the famous that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. Terracotta Warriors of X’ian, considered the 8th wonder of the world and a UNESCO World www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Heritage Site. For info on opening hours visit www.valdichianaoutlet.it Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4

28 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020

6852_VOV_Where_Florence_207x277_SALDI.indd 1 17/12/19 19:03 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for Tuscan food the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary Pappa col pomodoro A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this biscuits are made by slicing up a long Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, roll of baked dough while still hot. the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come The dough is made with flour, sugar, rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, fortified local wine called Vin Santo. Cibrèo Ristorante freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 Cibreo is a typical main course of well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie and onion. Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with cooked in a herb broth and most Fashion and artistic cuisine combined 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. commonly served in a panino soaked www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 in the broth or topped with the local Da Burde 0804. Map L4 Coming about from the meeting between haute couture and fine cuisine is a unique Michelin-starred The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and parsley-based green sauce. tavern inside an exceptional location, featuring an award-winning Executive Chef. By Chiara Zaccarelli the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by n January 2018 Massimo Bottura, an Italian ranging from Italy to the Orient, passing through >> www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura salt and pepper. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini chef owner also of the “Osteria Francescana” Latin America, and then all over the world. Piazza della Signoria, 10. in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, in Modena (three Michelin stars), opened The menu therefore benefits from all these T: 055 75927038. Map G4 Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or I fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Florence contaminations and offers cosmopolitan titbits at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people inside the Gucci Garden, a new space for the such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese boiled several times - derives from the waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- IO Osteria Personale fact that in the old days peasants used to Florentine fashion design label. Located in the steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still make a large pot and serve it, heated up, historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, in addition to or marinated palamita with tortilla or spicy Thai conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera over a number of days, each time tastier the tavern, Gucci Garden also hosts a boutique aubergines. But there are also tortellini in cream surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few than before. of unique edition products, an auditorium and of parmigiano reggiano cheese, carciofi alla modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this an exhibition area. The creative liaison between giudia, tongue with green sauce and Chianina of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and simple focaccia baked in a wood oven Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy hot dog. And for dessert? Remaining on the way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring and dressed with olive oil and salt at any is very much renowned for: fashion and fine theme of tradition revisited you can find tiramisù In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can baker’s, but of course everyone has their cuisine. Less than two years after its opening, the roll cake or amarena cheesecake, or you can opt seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star for the lighter mandarin Spritz sorbet. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and salty, or made with ancient grains. under the direction of chef Ana Karime Lopez In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; La Ménagère (C.Z.) closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Kondo, wife of Bottura’s sous chef, Taka Kondo. the tones of green and pistachio A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 In other words: an explosive blend of flavours and can welcome up to 35 diners indoors. combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the The “fiorentina” Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d ’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni www.oradariaristorante.com but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, Buca Mario throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient the most iconic dishes in Florence recipes but tending towards a more creative in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as cuisine. But be careful: to recognize contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al the original and tell it apart from the Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of hundreds of impostors, there are cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as a few tips you need to know. “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or Bottega del Buon Caffè portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its and a highly select menu of beers. with unwritten rules that the visitor Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants needs to know to avoid falling foul Il Palagio Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory of the restaurant owner, paying over that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the odds and to make sure they get www.ilpalagioristorante.it Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it the real thing. Enoteca Pinchiorri vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken enotecapinchiorri.it fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks from a specific cut of a young Chianina identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast How do you manage to be honoured with three del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of cow, a part of the loin near the backbone with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo which has a T-bone in the middle. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps It should be grilled at a very high 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that temperature, so that a fine crust forms winning combination of prime quality raw materials, to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany CANTINE the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the include gems such as amberjack served in three ways PIZZA dish depends on the cooking: the meat territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man must be brown on the outside but red, to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan includes highly prized labels, along with others that are labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- little known but equally interesting. Then we can add Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura cooked through. This is the first vital rule: Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th- Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 a fiorentina must be eaten rare. for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms are a delight for the senses. Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Ora d’Aria bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just available. And here is another sore point. San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. Pizzaiuolo (Il) a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina www.borgosanjacopo.com The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the by weight. An average price to be sure of postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality getting the real thing is around 50 euros San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. a kilo. case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan WITH. The traditional accompaniment is tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts usually cannellini beans, washed down Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all around the tones of green and pistachio and can history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via with a glass of Chianti. washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan WHERE. Here are four restaurants where based one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. La Bottega del Buon Caffè www.laleggendadeifrati.it del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising SHUTTERSTOCK.COM com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft Zero food miles products gathered from the organic helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €. ristorante-perseus-firenze). PHOTO © famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. (C.Z.) Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Il Palagio Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes www.ilpalagioristorante.it classic Tuscan dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al fresco. combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden c/o Hotel Lungarno enclosed by sweeping picture windows that Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene make the most of the unique position and www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia breathtaking view over the city. On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale wines from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. options too. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 APERITIVI Corso dei Tintori, 10/r.T: 055 242327. Map H5 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates Easy living back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale Procacci Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly back to the second half of the 19th century. www. institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. Map B2 truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar Teatro Verdi patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany is located view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic in Florence, in the historic district of Santa Croce, and is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. hosts all genres of performance. Inaugurated in 1854, Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6 Tuscany, which is based there. www.teatroverdifirenze. Teatro del Sale Il Rifrullo it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320. Map H4 Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly Teatro Goldoni it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand Florentines and visitors, renovated several times co-founder, president and artistic director Maria III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval- acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and it experienced a period of abandonment. After a www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, T: 055 2342621. Map H6 dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of with a historical design by Italian director and actor Rivalta Cafè 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. Teatro del Maggio The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. CONCERT VENUES The theatre is in the centre, beside the old city www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda. The T: 055 289810. Map E4 & THEATRES garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, Teatro Comunale Rooftop Bar La Terrazza named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale The city’s largest theatre occupies approximately Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4

Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every ROBERTO GRAZIANI ROBERTO evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. Indian Sauna PHOTOS © T: 055 27151. Map C3

Three Sixty From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. Asmana, a world of wellbeing www.grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria Why not alternate your cultural visits with an evening of pure relaxation at the largest day spa in Italy? Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 A few kilometres from Florence you can treat yourself to a luxury wellbeing experience. By Chiara Zaccarelli BRUNCH Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in t may happen, when you are visiting a city, highlights, above all for the winter season, is >> Via Salvator Allende, 10. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving that you reach the evening feeling tired out the largest hammam in Italy, with its heated Campi Bisenzio (15 min from Florence). competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s Ibecause you have little time and often try octagonal swimming pool, structured around T : 055 776771. best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened to see as many things as possible. What could which are the Tepidarium, the Foam Room and www.asmana.it this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging give you some kind of relief? A fine sauna and two steam baths, enriched by essential oils. Wine Sauna from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French a decontracting massage, for example, or a Then, to loosen up your contracted muscles toast. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. A real cooking class few hours at the hammam. All this is possible and rest and relax, the infrared zone is perfect; Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). Would you like to learn to knead pici (the typical pasta of the Val d’Orcia region) like the ladies at Asmana Wellness World, a temple of here you are warmed by infrared ray lamps • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. of Montepulciano do? Or make your very own Italian gelati? Are you true cooking enthusiasts (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. wellbeing located in Campi Bisenzio, around that slightly increase the skin temperature, and do you want to attend a full-immersion residential course to learn the fundamentals Map E5 15 kilometres from Florence. Immersed in the spreading a pleasant heat through the whole of the Tuscan culinary art? Today you can do all this and much more, by choosing one of the greenery of the Park of Villa Montalvo, Asmana body, relieving stress and alleviating muscle Foody Farm countless cooking classes that are organised throughout the region. Here is an experience “The right food from the right places” is the motto of stretches over 12,000 sq.m.2 and is open all pain. And there is more: the salt room with pink chosen specially for you. With a Florencetown tour, all in one go, in the magnificent setting of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability year round, seven days a week, from ten in the salt from the Himalayas, which is therapeutic for of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original a farmhouse located in the outskirts of Florence, you can learn to make both pizza and gelato, morning till midnight (with extended hours at the respiratory tracts, and the fire room, where and genuine light lunch, with the option of half two of the Italian foods that are most appreciated (and imitated) all over the world. Then when weekends and during holiday periods), so it is you can relax with Balinese background music portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including you return home you can surprise and delight your relatives and friends with the recipe for true lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, perfect for relaxing after a day walking around or meditate observing the flickering flames of pizza and true Italian ice cream. www.florencetown.com besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate museums and seeing monuments. Among the the candles in the centre of the room.

38 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Last Supper, Ghirlandaio © Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. The treasure chest of San Marco it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 The Museum of San Marco holds the largest collection in the world of works by Beato Angelico, Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of one of the most outstanding painters of the early Renaissance. By Elena Peverata civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman n the Dominican convent of San Marco, the 150th anniversary. The visitors’ itinerary winds Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over architectural masterpiece by Michelozzo its way through the splendid Renaissance the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the (1436-1443), an extraordinary museum brings spaces, across the cloister of Sant’Antonio, past I Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and together the most important collection of works by Ghirlandaio’s famous Last Supper in the Refectory Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent Frate Giovanni da Fiesole, better known in Italian of Ognissanti, the Chapter Hall and the monks’ in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a as Beato Angelico and in English as Fra Angelico, cells, up to the second floor of the convent, where series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the one of the greatest painters of the Renaissance, fresco decorations executed by Fra Angelico world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno who lived in the convent between 1440 and between 1438 and 1446 are nestled. There are also David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of 1445. Among the main works by Fra Angelico on other works of inestimable historical-artistic copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the display here, mostly coming from the Uffizi and value on display in the museum, such as the dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious the Accademia, we can admire the Annunciation, a Madonna and Child by Paolo Uccello, paintings by Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; genuine masterpiece of Renaissance painting, the Fra’ Bartolomeo and Giovanni Antonio Sogliani, Annunciazione, Beato Angelico. Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest Deposition of Christ, the Triptych of St. Peter Martyr, terracottas by the Della Robbias and a famous of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one the Last Judgment and the San Marco Altarpiece, portrait of Girolamo Savonarola, who was also a important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its works recently restored and returned to their guest at the convent. The museum spaces coexist >> Museum of San Marco imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. place in the Sala dell’Ospizio on the occasion of with the church of St. Mark and part of the convent, Piazza San Marco, 3. its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 the initiatives for the celebration of the museum’s which is still reserved for monastic life. www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

40 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 experienced that profound artistic agitation that has Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church the Firenzecard circuit price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. 2342427.Map G6 city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Map E6 of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Forte di Belvedere decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Cappella Brancacci exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A Museo di Santa Maria Novella da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was Galleria degli Uffizi The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 floors of the large building erected between 1560 and cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 210030. Map D5 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri 2388606. Map F4 the most famous museums in the world on account Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important Cappelle Medicee combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- museum, but their history is closely associated with centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a MUSEUMS & medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 EXHIBITION SITES Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private © families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope centre that hosts international level exhibitions, (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being

galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , PHOTO Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition PONTE VECCHIO starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches which makes its profile of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 unmistakable. Grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici to connect the administrative dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and buildings to his private residence without exposing the sovereign to any danger. Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G

42 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

44 WHERE FLORENCE I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 V A SI E S T E S E

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L L Santa Maria a Ricorboli S S E VIA UGO FOSCOLO Chiesa di I C H E L VIA M A

San Salvatore al Monte N E L E

G VIA DELL’ERTA CANINA

DI SADI H

V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L Rusciano V. G. CAPONSACCHI PIAZZA L

Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

G I

Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

I AN GN OI T D. . VL

VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

VI E

AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

L A N

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D MONTE O M EN N DSO AI A PIAZZA L VIUZZO DELLE LAME RA V IA D I R IP O L I DEGLI I O V I A O L A N D A C I VIALE EUROPA UNGANELLI G H V I A G I N E L A

VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

A TORRE DEL PIAZZA

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

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