FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

AUGUST 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Unusual shapes Contemporary art invades the Boboli Gardens

FLORENCE IN A PICTURE Point your camera and express your artistic side ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS Florence August 2019

V A SI E S T E S E 32 DINING 14 INSIDER TIPS CASTELLO SESTO the guide apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 20 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI G S E Inside the top-selling . DUPRÈ

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E fashion retail shop

VIA ANDREA COSTA Luisaviaroma you’ll find VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano the most trend-setting VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo brands. SCONI BO STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A

VIALE XI AGOSTO LUC

32 DINING V VIA SANT’APPOLINAR

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA A

E V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN G VIA GI VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I The new Magnolia O

ULI AENTINA V O CACCIN A N I N VIA F SOLANA I

PONTE D A

restaurant, an exclusive VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI F I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S H I A F I E VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA CC E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto Asian gastrobar in the T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C heart of the Four Seasons PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI Hotel Firenze, comes VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO DE IA FAENTINA V VIA DE T from the collaboration TODA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIA PANCIATICHI VIALE ASTRONAUTI MAIANO

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO between two multi- IO C CC C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCA V I A P R A T E S E A I A V Michelin-starred chefs. M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VI V. ARI O A SAN DO

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L IA V. F. BARACCA IAZZUOLA N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I P UCCI ME MUGNONE 38 ENTERTAINMENT N I IC VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace O R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP ENTINA VIA DELAL VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze A O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria OGNESE PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I I A F VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA V

L V AI D IN O V O L I One of the most eagerly VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II V I A B O L CIO V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

awaited events in BOCCAC V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE NNI V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I A DI MONTUGHI LA

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA GIOV VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IA IAZZUO TERZOLLE Tuscany, the Palio di V VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE ENTERTAINMENT Convento Frati Cappuccini D PIAZZA V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA DEL TERZOLLE IA 38 P.TTA V. C SA VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI I N Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Siena takesAS place on 16 O D A P IS T O IA Chiesa San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I V

. .

VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA GUGLIELMO M August A in an atmosphere VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZE VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA of festive competition. VIA PALA LL I VIA FAENTINA I NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C O VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

LEOPOLDO FORBICI TI E RSALI D'ORO TI . V T O R OI E M A N U E L EI E

V BB L Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI F. . G A I N N I V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE dell'Ascensione LARGO TANUCCI 40 SIGHTSEEING CA Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI V I A G . B A R B E R A AUGUST 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI & MUSEUMSParrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M The G Accademia LARGOGallery Madre della ILANE

U A S T I Divina Provvidenza ANTON

CESARE Orti del Parnaso CO

V IA M A R A G L IA N O SI CANTÙ

3 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 18 NATURE AND ART IA V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO V

E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E LUDOVICOdisplays ANTONIO various V O BO VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo nusual Sangue LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Suggestions for trips outside I A MUGNONE U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA U V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. collections of ancient. ABBA VIALE DEI CADORNA V DELLE CURE shapes I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA Contemporary art FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. the city able to satisfy any need. C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI invades the PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I Boboli Gardens PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI Italian paintings andDELLA VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N L V IA L E D E I M IL L E A V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U FLORENCE SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S IN A PICTURE V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T the largest number in MUGNONE N FERRARIS O VIA DEI CA VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI Point your camera A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H and express Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A your artistic side VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E TOP BRANDS 6 22 E ITALIAN-STYLE V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L the world of sculptures AL N D GIFT GUIDE VIA G. BAND VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI Our pick of the best VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE seasonal trends V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art The best fashionRE designersDI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S by Michelangelo NOBILI I A DELLE VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, traditional events for your high-end shopping. V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT Buonarroti. V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA ‘Mean Average’ (fiberglass, and music. AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I V I A C A V O E 2018) by Tony Cragg at the V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O BONSANTI 44 ESSENTIALS L Ippodromo del Visarno Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O LE FASHION OUTLETS VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R 30 Franchi

MONTIGNANO Boboli Gardens until 27 RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G October. C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero Information and tips I O DI BESLAN V AI M Several of the best shopping INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia GIFTPasserella GUIDE dell'Isolotto B B AI VIA D 11 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI VIA MASSA A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V to experience the O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Take advantage of your stay destinations not far di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA RA F VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI bestFirenze Fiera thatSan Giuliano Florence VIA GINO CAPP P O Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO in Florence to enjoy a pick from Florence, offering L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale V V AI M hasADUA V to offer B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A of the best high-quality items.A R N O discounts year-round. S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E terina da Palazzo VI INI FLORENCE IN A PICTURE TOP HOTEL a VI 14 36 .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO

Santa Maria Novella I G C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria A O R I E L I M VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI VEL E’ VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS S . L U C I A Teatro D Università V I A IN NANDO MART VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C L F MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze AGR DPO ' I PIAZZA V. O Pucci Lucia LI VI A N I VIA GIOVANNI BOV With monuments, palaces, statues Z TONIO SCIALOJA O RESTAURANTS VIA DELL'AL VIA PALESTRO VIA MARSALA sul Prato EN P. BATONI R AN VI OLI A DELL’A RTELLI Chiesa E MAZZ www.magzter.com A A Polimoda I M Santa Maria

V IA D E L L A S VIA DEL GIGLIO ’ O MENOTTI Parrocchiale T VIA AN LO LL CAS VI PIAZZA N Maddalena dei Pazzi V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI O ZA Teatro RI IR Sacro Cuore VIA FERDI STA VICO VIA MONTEBELLO RO SEPP PIAZZA CO V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I N ETTI RGO S VIA DENiccolini TI E’ VIA TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA O GIU A C VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O D B VIA DEI SER RINI AT A I

NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O and breathtaking landscapes, Where® highlights some VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA L VI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR D Santommaso T LU CI A PI VIA BRONZINO DE V. A VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei A V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A the Tuscan capital is a theatre culinary destinations di San LE IL OBERDAN issuu.com/where-italia VIA I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele D VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA OMA V P O CH AS VIA TITO SPERI Paolino EL A C V.CANONICA e Gaetano V ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO DE E R T

IA A V A AI R OSUE' CA O V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I DI SAN V V. I VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI I L V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI TT I VIA DELLE OCHE DE VIA DELLA SPADA S N B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VI G

BRUN

' V OLE I A SALVI

I E L I V I A D E L E VIA DI MEZZO MA

L O

D

LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI N V DICI

O A L VIA DEL PONTE SOSPESO FELICE CAVALLOTTI O

LI A E CIONI L VIA FRA DIAMANTE VIA DEL CHIESINO I . S A D S

V IA L U N G A U V

O L M Digital magazines VIA DI MONTICELLI I T

SO I I B M A N Z O N I A DEI FOSSI I V Chiesa I PE U Chiesa di

IU

E N A Santa Margherita DE VIA V Museo DI

A

Ponte D D. San Michele a San Salvi . VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO Sant'Ambrogio A V Z in S.M. dei Ricci O VIA L. MANARA VIA FRA' FILIPPO LIPPI

Marino Marini RN V.

Amerigo Vespucci PIAZZA CO for memorable snapshots to whet your appetite L P. GAETANO VI PIAZZA VI

O VIA DEL MORO VIA DEGLI STROZZI DELLA V. SPEZIALI VIA CORSO O CA BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI SALVEMINI NTONIO SCIALOJ T R AL EI FEDERIGH I P. SAN VIA PIETRAPIANA I

REPUBBLICA P PIER VETTORI D E V. M Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli V I A P I S A N A E PIER O

CHI A R N O Palazzo L ARTIRI Loggia BORGO LA CROCE VIA N P. DEGLI MAGGIORE IA A D P. DEI R V. GIORDANO BRU R A D Strozzi DEL POPOLO V LL'AFFRICO STROZZI E del Pesce E DE Chiesa TRE RE IA VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA VI VI V

VIA DELL'ANCONELLA A VIA DEGLI ANSELMI A DE SAN S Di San Bartolomeo INF I C P. DEI Follow us on twitter DE ’ I SGC FIRENZE - PISA - LIVORNO PIAZZA

E VIA DELL'ULIVO PIAZZALE V I PIAZZA PIER a Monte Oliveto GOLDONI L PURGATORIO RDI CIOMPI

VIA PISANA ERIA VIA DEI PARIONE ELL VIA TAVOLINI I VIA ANTONIO DEL POLLAIOLO D VIA DANTE VIA DEI PANDOLFINI E D C Loggia dell’ Porta alla Croce VIA DEL GUARLONE V I A M A S O L I N O A . Orsanmichele P. LORENZO V. V. DA BISTICC

IA ZIN I DELLA V D P. PIETRO IC Palazzo

L DELLA Arte della Lana V LUNGARNO SODERINI FRA' PAOLO SARPI IA D L AZ GHIBERTI more than any other. in several top hotels. VIA DEL PIAGGIONE A San Carlo Palazzo ANNIGONI V I A S C I P I O N E A M M I R A T O

G Badia Borghese VIA LAMBERTI A V dei Lombardi PIAZZA A PIAZZA Palazzo Corsini ON FEDERIGA FRANCESCA V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Porta San Frediano delle Fiorentina PPE V Mercato di M DEI CERCHI VIA GHIBELLINA

al Parione Poste M I Museo Ponte A E VIA S. ONOFRIO VI @WhereFlorence I IA PEL ZANO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA

ARIONCINO D V BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI V del Bargello Z CAVALCAVIA alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. A V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA Palazzo Bartolini VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA GIUSE FERD V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Basilica di Palazzo RR VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI IA DEL P V I A P I S A N A Salimbeni E INANDO V Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA V O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO O VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEP PA Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S I S. Frediano D PIAZZA DE EL Santi V IA D E L V I A G H I B E L L I N A OL LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA IERI S. Maria Degli Angeli C AR SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo I I PARTE B Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo DE’ NERLI M O Salvatore GUELFA I BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo DA Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A R C VIA VACCHERECCIA B SSO Gondi T Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo di San Firenze I VIA DE F IC O I VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA IA FIO AC ORTA DAIO Chiesa V.D. A R H P I D OVANNI DA ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. C I V. A LL'A VIA DEI SANTI APOSTOLI AR R N della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A O NGUILLARA G Archivio di Stato M BORGO DEI GRECI Sacra Famiglia C Like us on VIA C V. PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio E C VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO I Santi Apostoli NTADEI SALTERELLI Loggia LA LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIA A C SA H T BELLOSGUARDO IAS VIA An teatro R dei Lanzi TI

e Biagio DELLA NINNA LEON VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI CI SO D N V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I O V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O

VIA DEL LEONE VIA LUDOVICO ARIOSTO OT E Romano V I A M A S O D I B A N C O EI DEL P ALIA

VIA DEL DRAGO D'ORO O DEL Ponte VIA LAMBERTESCA LL B

R IA VIA CIMABUE

BENE V A di Firenze SANTA CROCE ZI . O E L A I V

’ VIA TIS Santa Trinita L VI V BORGO ALLEG VIA DELL’ORTO BORGO DELLA STELLA BORGO SANTO SPIRITO FI VIN V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E VIA DEI GEPP I L OLI F PIAZZA Palazzo E EGIA D . U V I A P I S A N A I I facebook.com/WhereFlorence Santo Stefano DEI MAC V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Gucciardini V .d. MAGA VIA DI SOFFIANO DEL CARMINE V RUSTICI al Ponte A Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI N EI Palazzo della Missione Uzi VI PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIRO DEL GRANO CHE VIA DELLE CASINE V I A A R E T I N A Basilica di LU O VIA D IA DEI BENCI V IA P IE T VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO DE' FRESCOBALDI NG O V I N E I T I G LAMI NT E San Remigio BRA V Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa A RI VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA RNO NI A V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O Chiesa I A LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A San Jacopo AR GI N N A V O PIAZZALE DEGL E Evangelica Ponte Vecchio CH ELL D San Giuseppe R T CH Palazzo IB VIA DE IA O VIA DEL GHIR USIERI S Metodista E T H O U A R A BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI A RIA d. GU V Cappella Pazzi VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO V C CA VIA DEI SERRAGLI Macchiavelli IA DEL TE I N VIA DI CAMALDOLI Chiesa di A ANGIOLIERI I OS ERI BORGO SANTA CROCE LL V OS . M Santa Maria del Carmine A MAFFIA V VIA SANT’AGOSTINO I LO SP VIA DEI SAPONAI E VIA LATI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA V VIA DEI VAGELLAI I N DE V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I I Follow us on Instagram VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva INGHETTI SI A L O D N E M A VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI RO VIA PIAGENTINA DEI GIUDICI NC A Basilica di Santo Spirito VI A D EI BARBADORI C O R P I V. DEI VELLUTINI N E LUNGARNO GENERALEPIAZZA DIAZ VIA V. A. MAGLIAB E MALENCHINI, C B S O D E I T I N T O R I M TOSCANELLA MENTANA V. DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA PIAZZA VIA IA E ALE VIA DI SCANDICCI D I V I A A R N O L F O E BARDI EI V V NO IA D VIA Biblioteca Nazionale TORQUATO TASSO D V PIAZZA V I A A R E T I N A V Centrale di Firenze Giardini di Bellariva EI VE . SPR DELL INI SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA @where_florence Santi Vito e Modesto VIA VIA DELLA CHIESA L RD MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA VIA D'ARDIGLIONE LU ONE A R N O ETA V PIAZZA O TI I L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E V I A T R I P O L I V . M . SANTO SPIRITO A VIA DE' GUICCIA Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA VIA DELLA BELLARIVA VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRU ANELL FRANCESCO DE SANC V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COS LUNG D LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA DEL MADONNONE V IA D E L F IL A R E T E C I A G A

O E ARNO Torre della Zecca TOSC S TA DE B A R D Ponte V IA MAGG C T V. C. DEI A TORRIGIANI Palazzo V VIA alle Grazie VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO SAN G I VIA DEL CAMPOFIORE I I Guadagni PIT M AGNO LUNGARNO PECORI GIRALDI V I A

N VIA MAZZETTA I T O R N GI L L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O I O CASELLINA V. DEI PR V. MARSI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO E VIA VILLANI Ex monastero IE TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) E www.wheretraveler.com LI O R 1 VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA TI PIAZZA LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO C P U C PIAZZA O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO D MOZZI San Felice E

T in Piazza B A R D VIA DEI RENAI VIA DELLE CALDA Palazzo Pitti PIAZZA E COS I I P GIUSEPPE Ponte Ponte T A L U N G A R N O C E L L I N I B E N V E N U T O San Niccolò L E S POGGI Giovanni da Verrazzano I A Teatro Goldoni AN GI V V I A R O M A N A S. Niccolò Sopr'Arno VIA DEL CASONE VIA DI SAN NICCOLO' O

O Porta San Niccolò

RGIO

VIA DEI SERRAGLI

V I A D E L L A F O R N A C E V IA D E I B A

VIA

DE

Giardino Corsi PIAZZA

L PIAZZA L U N G A R N O F R A N C E S C O F E R R U C C I

M VIALE GIUSEPPE POGGI

ON S T I RAVENNA FRANCESCO

I O ARLUNG T

E

N

Giardino Bardini A

V. P I

Villa Dell’Ombrellino LLE C FERRUCCI V BOL

OGGIO BRACCI V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

R

R

V I A R O M A N A OC V. M O N A C H I V I A G I A M P A O L O O R S I N I

I

Forte di Belvedere PIAZZA

Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino DRESDA VIA IPPOLITOVIA PINDEMONTE

VIA DI BELVEDERE PIAZZALE RICO VIA NICCOLO' DA UZZANO

Giardino di Boboli OL V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

VIA ERT VIA MICHELANGELO I

Giardino dell'Iris N PONTE A

SAN NICCOLO’VIADEI O I V I A V I A C O L U C C I O S A L U T A T I

PIAZZA V I A D E L L E N A Z I O N I U N I T E I V VIA L V V. G. BANDE NERE

.

A A DE A GAVINANA G

Museo delle Porcellane Camping O B

CA L . I D ALD M M V. R. DA MANDELLO Palazzo Pitti I V. M A R S U P P I N I PIAZZA

ON V

NINA . LARGO

I V V OVINI C O N A I C S U R

T A I

G GUALFREDOTTO

E

EC PIETRO PAOLO A I A O L O P O C R A M A I V

F A LLE S C DA MILANO BOSCOLI

CANINA S

N V VIA DEI SERRAGLI H . VL V

C AK

V I V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A A I I V A R E Z Z I V VIA DI SCANDICCI RO V M

I A L I A I AI D R I P I O L I C A Chiesa

A I V. F L’ERTA L L L E S S Santa Maria a Ricorboli F L E D A G D . I D E

A Chiesa di E E O T O Y K

VIA UGO FOSCOLO EL I C H L CCHI REI VIA M A K . S D San Salvatore al Monte N E O

DEGLI UG E I

G VIA R U B M DI H AI V

V I A I S C O N O A I A

I DELLA FAGGIOLA ERBO NLEON IA FRANCESCO B Porta Romana CHI V L ONI OG VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O IT

PIAZZALE ONSAC VI

GUCCIONE A E

RDO AP VIA E VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA U E ANT

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L S Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA

R Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L V . G . C PIAZZA TA T E Rusciano L R

A

Parco della Carraia A O VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA CA

G P I Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

EL BOBOLINO NINA

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA D Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

E

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI RTOGALLO

L V I A D E L L E

O

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A

VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA I ARDO A G I D. . VL

V

V I A P

N LEON V I A G I R A M O N T E

RBOSA

SA E

E V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI L I L A I

VI E

AV I VIA SENESE G A O V V I A

AI

L N O S A N B

E E B L E N E

E IT A R TE O DELLE LAM I N

A R V D E

D MON O M I T L N O PIAZZA T O VIUZZ RA I D V IA D I R IP O L I DEGLI I O V I A O L A N D A I SIA C F O R VIALE EUROPA UNGANELLI A G I G H E N A V N E L A T O NI VIALE MACHIAVELLI LL ,I

CA V I A D I R I P O L I GA AC EL

D T

VIA E P.

ARCETRI V. DI SDI

ORR

A T PIAZZA L ANT

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI DEL

AM O

IA

V E

ARGH V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L ERITAAMONTICI G A

M A R C O P O L O

V I A

V AI B E N E

VIA DEl PARADISO

D E T

T O

F O R T

NI ,I

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 38 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Top in town 46-47 PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 5 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who Andrea Jarach more than any other, represents Italy throughout [email protected]) the world. Andrea Jarach EDITORIAL Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome MANAGING DIRECTOR Where® will host a series of special events. The full program Daniele Misrachi of Italian exhibitions and events honouring ([email protected]) Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person ([email protected])

considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. CONTRIBUTORS While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, and Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli 6 2 political facets of European life from the fifteenth century. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY medicine and art. City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. MARKETING & ADVERTISING If you happen to find them, please Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, share your comments, with Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni Polyhedrons in the city: the arrival ([email protected]) your photo, on our social of “Leonardo’s botanical drawings” A huge six-metre-high dodecahedron ADMINISTRATION media. By the end of the year, with a mulberry tree inside it: the Katia Greto installation in Piazza della Signoria – ([email protected]) we’d like to collect a gallery like the other polyhedrons that have appeared and will appear at various PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, of the friends of Italy. SHUTTERSTOCK.COM points in the city – anticipates and SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Happy hunting! presents the contents of the exhibition Paola Grilli The botany of Leonardo. For a new ([email protected]) science between Art and Nature. The exhibition, which is inaugurated HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER PHOTOS © on 13th September in the Museum of Maria Granata Santa Maria Novella, is a major project ([email protected]) devoted to the natural and botanical DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO studies of Leonardo and has the task CUSTOMER SERVICES Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current of closing the year of celebrations of Cristina Garbini Leonardo’s 500th Anniversary. ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire www.labotanicadileonardo.it in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the 1 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences is a symbol known all over the world. most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill. MVP EXECUTIVE PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari 4 in the world. 6 FRANCESCO FANTINI – ABOCA FRANCESCO FANTINI MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

2 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 3 WHERE NOW | PANORAMA FLORENCE FROM ABOVE

A bird’s eye view

Allow yourself to be enchanted by an incomparable aerial view of the historic centre. If you want to admire the city from its taller tower, after visiting Palazzo Vecchio, climb up the Torre di Arnolfo, which towers over the city from the height of 95 metres. From here, walking along the ancient Camminamenti di Ronda that are concealed behind the characteristic crenellations, you can enjoy a splendid panoramic view of the square below as well as of the entire urban skyline with the Basilica of Santa Croce and the hills. Remember, however, that the climb up the tower is not included in the ticket price for access to the Museum of Palazzo Vecchio (www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it).

Or, if you visit the Duomo, make sure you also buy a ticket that allows you to climb up Giotto’s Bell Tower and Brunelleschi’s Dome. The most distinctive photographs are achieved by exploiting architectural elements such as arcades, spirals or statues to give each snapshot a personal touch. Remember to book your tickets in advance, so as not to waste too much time queuing (www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it).

Other suggestions and cues for experimenting with your photographic abilities can be found in the INSIDER TIPS column (pages 14-17). SIMONA BOTTONE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO ©

4 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

ART 5 27 MAY OCTOBER

UNUSUAL FORMS IN A GREEN SETTING A fascinating exhibition, in one of the most charming locations in Florence. From the gravel and among the hedges of the Boboli Gardens there emerge bronze stalagmites and gigantic resin flowers, colossal pale stems, hilly eruptions and elliptical forms, huge interweavings of imaginary fossil forests, castings of metal that twist and bend and geysers of bright steel. Scattered around the most evocative places in the park are sixteen monumental works by the great British sculptor Tony Cragg that tell the story of the last twenty years of the artist’s career.

TONY CRAGG IN BOBOLI Giardino di Boboli, Piazza Pitti 1 www.uffizi.it

Left page: ‘Senders’ (fiberglass, 2018). This page, clockwise: ‘Elliptical Column and Point of View’ (stainless steel, 2012- 2018); ‘Industrial Nature’ (aluminium, 2015); ‘Mean Average’ (fiberglass, 2018).

AUGUST

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

6 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

EXHIBITION FOLKLORE

CONTEMPORARY ART THE FESTIVAL OF FESTIVALS AT THE FORTE ► The Feast of San Lorenzo in Florence is the popular festival par excellence, on account both of its historical aspect (the Basilica of ► As happens every summer, the Forte di Belvedere reopens as an exhibition site, 29 20 10 San Lorenzo was the city’s first consecrated church, by St. Ambrose and this year it hosts two new exhibitions JUNE OCTOBER AUGUST in 393 AD), and of the city’s traditional bond with its co-patron saint. of contemporary art by two important In antiquity the “Compagnia dei fornai fiorentini di San Lorenzo” Italian artists. Massimo Listri, a recognised (Company of Florentine bakers of San Lorenzo) distributed blessed bread free of master of architectural and environmental charge to citizens on this day, followed by a feast of watermelons in the evening. photography, has created an unprecedented Today in Piazza San Lorenzo bread has been replaced by lasagne with meat sauce, series of photos of the Renaissance in distributed free of charge together with watermelons at the end of the day of Florence, and his images - both conceptual celebrations. The event also envisages concerts in the church square and, in the and poetic at the same time - occupy the morning, the parade of the Corteo Storico della Repubblica Fiorentina through first floor of the Forte. Davide Rivalta, on the the streets of the city centre, with the participants in traditional costumes and the other hand, is a sculptor who focuses on the presence of the city’s banner. figurative reproduction of the animal realm, Festa di San Lorenzo Piazza San Lorenzo whose bronze works populate the terraces and green areas of outdoor slopes and various rooms on the ground floor. OPEN AIR CINEMA MASSIMO LISTRI. A perfect day MUSIC DAVIDE RIVALTA. My land Forte Belvedere, Via di San Leonardo, 1 www.musefirenze.it 26 8 2 JUNE AUGUST Massimo Listri AUGUST THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MOVIE THEATRE IN THE WORLD MEMORABILIA ▼ For the third consecutive year the summer film festival returns to the Uffizi, with a programme of Italian and international arthouse masterpieces in their original languages (with subtitles). ZEFFIRELLI’S WORLD The arena is hosted in Vasari’s Loggia in Piazzale degli Uffizi, a ◄ Franco Zeffirelli, the great film and unique, highly fascinating location: what other cinema can boast a theatre director who recently passed more charming theatre? Entry is free until the seats run out. 24 away, was a genuine and sophisticated For the programme of projections, check the website or AUGUST Florentine. The historical Complesso ask your concierge. di San Firenze hosts his Museum, the International Centre for the Arts of the Apriti Cinema Piazzale degli Uffizi. www.uffizi.it Spectacle and his Archive and Personal Library, where - every last Saturday of the month (at 11am) - the staff are at visitors’ disposal for a free guided visit to discover his extraordinary and imaginative world: sketches of scenes, TANGO IS THE PROTAGONIST set designs and figures in costume, works ▲ From Oblivion to Libertango, from Adios Nonino to Milonga and anecdotes from the fascinating del Angel: Astor Piazzolla, with his “cultured” tango, is the international career of the Great Master. protagonist of the concert in the charming Roman Theatre You are advised to book in advance. at the Archaeological Park in Fiesole. For the occasion, the Florentine Chamber Orchestra is enhanced with Museo Franco Zeffirelli the bandoneon and accordion playing of Mario Stefano Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, Pietrodarchi, one of the most distinguished virtuosos of Complesso di San Firenze. Piazza San Firenze, 5 these instruments. In the programme there are also pieces by www.fondazionefrancozeffirelli.com Morricone, Molinelli and Rissotto.

Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina. Omaggio ad Astor Piazzolla Teatro Romano di Fiesole. Via Portigiani, 3 - Fiesole www.bitconcerti.it

8 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE

6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY ◄ ANNAMARIA CAMMILLI Fluid and essential forms alternate with CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT decorative elements with unusual motifs A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near to make this 18kt Apricot orange gold necklace when Three Wise Men brought gifts the church of Orsanmichele, in which the flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai with diamonds from the ‘Dune’ collection of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the the quintessence of femininity. Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE www.annamariacammilli.com place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST Take advantage of a stroll PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO through Florence to treat A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a yourself to a jewellery item, commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine an accessory, or some other Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to alluring detail of style. The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, Where® brings you a pick known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. ► EMILIO PUCCI of the best seasonal trends! Crafted from transparent PVC and printed with the house’s logo across 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER the front, Pucci’s ‘Tote Twist’ is an ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ELENA.KATKOVA ideal beach accessory for women. LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO This roomy, two top handle model A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the PHOTO © burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. has a practical, detachable pouch CAVALCATA DEI MAGI Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial Concomitant entertainment events are and a printed beach towel in figure in the city’s history. A wreath of also held to mark the occasion. 100% cotton. www.emiliopucci.com flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. Celebration of the last heir of the Medici ▲ FURLA ◄ PINEIDER dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Available in three colour variations, these Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE With its design inspired by the including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine ‘Furla Favola’ sunglasses, here in the Havana Florentine skyline, the ‘Avatar’ ballpoint Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL shade, are made in Italy in resin and metal pen is a tribute to the new generations. is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO and stand out on account of the metal Made of resin and endowed with some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza effect mirroring on the upper part of the a steel clip that is reminiscent of a goose free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of lenses and the front. www.furla.com feather, it is available in 5 bright colours. St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of www.pineider.com the city. Highly competitive, it combines 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as BACCO ARTIGIANO the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER ► AQUAZZURA since before the advent of the Gregorian Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni Created in collaboration Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the with For Restless Sleepers, costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles this ‘Riviera’ pareo from the in the crypt. According to the legend it ‘Escapes’ crêpe de chine silk was thanks to the miraculous intercession Capsule Collection with floral EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines prints and coral is the perfect succeeded in repelling the siege of the solution for a touch of style SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked also when by the sea. A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. tradition that dates back to the time www.aquazzura.com of the Crusades. A procession with percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER ▲ DODO historical costumes, city officials This antique pink rope bracelet is and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI embellished by a 9kt pink gold accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the and white enamel cherry flower “Procession of the Florentine Republic” tower from the church of SS. Apostoli pendant with silver granules and addresses the civil and religious authorities to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is carries a romantic message. www.dodo.it set alight. CALCIO STORICO to wish them good luck during the festivities.

10 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 11

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

If there is a city that is a theatre for memorable snapshots more than any other, then that is surely Florence. With monuments, palaces, statues, breathtaking landscapes FLORENCE and panoramic views, the Tuscan capital offers endless cues for experimenting and expressing your artistic bent. in a BY GIULIA MINERO picture

o recall a famous phrase by one of the main experts of 20th-century photography, John Szarkowski: “Like chess, or writing, it is a matter of choosing from among given possibilities, but in the case of photography the number of possibilities is not finite but infinite”. In Florence this thought could not be truer, considering that, in every tcorner you turn to, you will find yourself surrounded by beauty. But what do you opt for if you have little time? Especially for you, Where® Florence has selected some of the places that you absolutely must immortalise during your stay in the city, including great classics and unusual perspectives, with some pearls for insiders. The novel side of the centre

A visit to the centre just has to include a picture of one of the places that symbolises the city: the Duomo, but captured from an unusual perspective, positioning yourself midway along Via dei Cerretani, the small connecting street that runs alongside the Baptistery and leads to the square. Point the camera upwards, making sure you include both the façade and the dome in one amazing photo, highlighting the alternating colours of the two architectural elements. For those who want to capture a view of the whole complex of Santa Maria del Fiore seen from above, the terrace of Rinascente is perfect for impactful photos, perhaps taken while you are tasting some of the specialties, or simply an aperitif, at the restaurant cafeteria Tosca&Nino, the taste of tradition (www.rinascente.it). If you have time on your side and you can access the Baptistery of St. John, one of the oldest churches in Florence and located right opposite the Duomo, make sure you look up so you can immortalise its marvellous octagonal- based dome. Its Byzantine-inspired gilded mosaics depicting scenes of the Universal Judgement are a detail of undeniable beauty. If, on the other hand, you want to admire Brunelleschi’s SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ELENA.KATKOVA dome close up, photographing the urban skyline, we very much recommend breakfast at the Caffetteria delle Oblate, on the Santa Maria del Fiore from the Rinascente terrace terrace of the library of the same name. PHOTOS © PHOTO ©

14 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

From here, or from a curious crescent window both the lion and the David in a single photo, – for fans of interesting geometries – you in an unusual artistic dialogue. can enjoy the delicate morning light from a privileged position; the dome will be so The Oltrarno close that it will almost seem like you can you don’t expect touch it, even without a zoom (Facebook: @ caffetteria.delleoblate). A little further on, if Cross one of the numerous bridges to reach you are lovers of street photography, then the other bank of the Arno – the Oltrarno make sure to take some snapshots of Piazza neighbourhood – but not before admiring della Repubblica, preferably in the evening, and photographing the Ponte Vecchio. when interplays of light and shade are You are spoiled for choice, with front views, striking on the Triumphal Arch and on the old maybe from the parallel Ponte Santa Trinita, merry-go-round in the centre of the square, better if at sunset when the sun slips behind giving the setting an allure of yesteryear. A the horizon and lights up the façades of the photo of Palazzo Vecchio, the imposing buildings on the Lungarno, or from Lungarno POLUDZIBER / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

fourteenth-century building, the seat of the Archibusieri, which runs alongside the Uffizi. JOYX@PROEDIMEDIA city’s government, may be an obvious one, In the latter case, take advantage of the PHOTO © but not if taken from an unconventional nocturnal lighting, which gives rise to warm

PHOTO © Palazzo Vecchio Borgo San Jacopo restaurant The stone steps to Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte and the Cimitero delle Porte Sante angle! Why not lower your gaze – or rather, golden reflections in the waters of the Arno your camera – to take a curious photo that and ever different lights with a romantic includes the characteristic element of the aura. If all this wandering around has made carriages that cross the square every day or you hungry, then you can enjoy an façade, which looks out over the luxuriant when the sky is tinged with shades of pink. the head of a standing horse, the inimitable view of the bridge from Boboli Gardens, perhaps from an elevated From here, turning your gaze to the left, it is façade of Palazzo Vecchio and, if Borgo San Jacopo, a Michelin-star position, so as to highlight the overlapping of also possible to see the remains of the city you choose the right position, also restaurant inside the Hotel Lungarno, volumes and architectural elements offered by walls cutting across the hill below, which at DELIGHTS FOR THE PALATE the faithful copy of Michelangelo’s where you can have lunch or dinner, a mixture of obelisks, fountains and beautifully one time acted as the city’s defence, as well David (www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. taking in the view while you taste Tuscan tended gardens. If you have time, why not go as Forte Belvedere, one of the two fortresses AND THE EYES fi.it). Obviously, the original statue, held dishes reinterpreted in a contemporary vein inside and visit the rooms of the palazzo? With of the city that is located in the Boboli Following the trend that has been raging for years on the social networks, Instagram in in the Galleries of the Accademia (www.borgosanjacopo.com). Then continue the beauty of the ceilings with stuccos, frescos Gardens. Today a venue for exhibitions and particular, of photographing the dish you’ve chosen before tasting it, in Florence too there to protect it from atmospheric towards the Basilica of Santo Spirito, the and rich decorations and the sumptuous Sala temporary installations, the Forte lends itself is no shortage of restaurants, bars or destinations of taste offering dishes or settings that agents, also deserves a snapshot (www. final architectural masterpiece designed by Bianca, with its crystal chandeliers and white to snapshots from the most diverse angles. are ideal for posts. First and foremost, La Ménagère, the historic concept restaurant with galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it)! Brunelleschi. Before venturing inside, stop a furnishings, it will be hard to choose what to If you want to ensure that you incorporate bistro, cocktail bar and a small shop of design objects, where you can taste dishes from Still in the heart of Piazza della Signoria, the moment for a photo in the square outside, photograph first (www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti). the entire complex in a photo, with the popular cuisine with meticulous aesthetics, immersed in a setting with flowers, plants and Loggia dei Lanzi is at the same time a piece opting for a laterally framed shot. That way fortress, the garden and the courtyard, maybe post-industrial design (www.lamenagere.it). Or else opt for lunch or dinner in the heart of of fourteenth-century Florentine history you will succeed in creating a postcard with a few works of art here and there, Florence from high up the Oltrarno at Il Santo Bevitore (see photos), where you can taste typical meat or fish dishes and an ‘open-air museum’. If a photo of its perspective that brings together the beautiful then use a wide-angle lens. Then you can that revisit the Tuscan tradition, with creative dish presentations and combined with a wide masterpiece statues, such as the Rape of the fountain at the centre of the square, a little If you have a weakness for panoramic proceed, with a pleasant walk or maybe by selection of wines by the glass. With all the dishes and the setting, with exposed vaults and Sabine Women by Giambologna or the bronze of the surrounding greenery and the façade photos, then you’re in luck, as Florence bus if you’re starting to feel tired, towards restored furniture, you won’t know where to start clicking away (www.ilsantobevitore.com). Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini, is de rigueur, then of the Basilica. A little further on you will find presents itself best when framed from high the Basilica of San Miniato al Monte, the you can take an ironic photo by positioning yourself in front of a large ochre-coloured up. The panoramic point par excellence beautiful Florentine Romanesque church that yourself beside the loggia and focusing on brick building, Palazzo Pitti. Although the is Piazzale Michelangelo, considered the dominates the city from above. Although its one of the two statues of lions. With the right temptation to photograph it will be strong, ‘balcony of Florence’ thanks to its inimitable interior, particularly the crypt and the sacristy, perspective, you will succeed in containing wait a while to immortalise it from the rear views of the city skyline, especially at sunset, are a real theatre for the creation of striking photos, it is its panoramic view of the city that will guarantee amazing effects. Position yourself on the low wall of the church square for a shot that includes the city from STREET PHOTOGRAPHY above, the surrounding hills and a detail of the tombs of the adjacent Cimitero delle If you have a weakness for scenes of everyday life, a visit to the Market of San Lorenzo is Porte Sante (www.sanminiatoalmonte.it). a must. Every day artisans populate the streets with stalls displaying hand-crafted leather Finally, visit the English-style gardens of Villa masterpieces. For a very colourful photo, frame the market in the foreground frontally, with Bardini, which are particularly unmissable in the Basilica of San Lorenzo standing out in the background, so as to create a chromatic summer when the wisteria that covers one contrast between the multi-coloured leather bags and the neutral tones of the church. of its pergolas is fully in bloom. Frame it from Or else amuse yourself trying to intercept the fun artworks by French street artist Clet. below, walking or sitting beneath its leafy In particular, in the zone that goes from the Garden of Villa Bardini to San Miniato al Monte branches, to give the impression of a large you may notice curious road signs that have been modified to recall scenes or characters blooming arcade, or point your camera – or from Florentine literature and art. An example? The no access sign seems to be carried by smartphone, needless to say – towards the David, or the arrow indicating the obligatory direction transformed into Pinocchio’s nose. city skyline and use the top of the wisteria to (Facebook: @CLET) give your photo a touch of colour (www.villabardini.it).

16 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. W The Guidelines M anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, R . C ACCESSORIES E T R 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Angela Caputi Giuggiù Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Aspesi The boutique offers an extraordinary selection The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist collections are still based on the original “no frills” and designer Angela Caputi chooses these philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. Brunello Cucinelli where skilled artisan hands create elegant items The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING Luisaviaroma. Beyond fashion Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the Inside the top-selling fashion retail shop Luisaviaroma you’ll find the most trend-setting brands, price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as custom-made installations and a design café that is all about healthy eating. By Chiara Zaccarelli a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include From the Far East to the cradle the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and of the Renaissance uisaviaroma was founded in the early designed by Patricia Urquiola, proposes a cuisine bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, The Merchant of Venice continues its journey in the Far East, amid spices, perfumes and semiformal clothing is usually considered de 1930s, with the opening of the first concept that is organic and chemical-free from breakfast precious teas, and launches Blue Tea, a fragrance focusing – as you would expect – on rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars L store, thanks to the insight of founder Luisa through to dinner. The space at Luisaviaroma are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ blue tea. Also known as Blue Chai’s butterfly pea blossoms, this refined type of Chinese Jaquin first and her nephew Andrea Panconesi is continually evolving: from time to time it is area is specifically offered. tea originates from Southeast Asia and India, and is characterised by a splendid cerulean later, and over the years it has become the point reinterpreted, totally revolutionised or even Set meals: prices are per person and usually flower.The Merchant of Venice has chosen to pay homage to such a rare raw material, also of reference for lovers of fashion and luxury simply redecorated. During the summer months, refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). conserving its original olfactory notes intact, thanks to a sophisticated extraction method. € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / worldwide. In addition to being a world power for example, it has been transformed into ‘Good The accord of blue tea is brought out by a bouquet of rose, magnolia and neroli, while the €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. in e-commerce, it also offers a purchasing Vibrations’, an installation curated by architect heart of the fragrance blossoms in contact with the fresh, and slightly fruity, notes of Rose, experience that is partially digitalised inside the Claudio Nardi and inspired by the vibrations of SIGHTSEEING Magnolia and Neroli. At the base, we find a weighty vetiver enveloped by green notes of Florentine boutique, located a few yards from black and white through an interplay of textures, The information provided on museums and musk. The bottle reminiscent of chinoiserie is inspired by the Orient and the whole imaginary monuments is verified as meticulously as the Duomo: the clothing items are no longer on geometries and lights, creating the illusion of a world that revolves around it: the elegant form, with a glass drop at the base, marries well with possible. However, data such as telephone display but are replaced by interactive installations walk in the city. At the same time, the terrace of numbers, opening hours, prices and the the surface lacquered with white enamel, with blue decorations, while the gilded collaret and and digital screens that take you to their website. the store hosts the pop-up Marni Moon Market, accessibility of sites are all subject to change, red top are combined with a red tassel. You can find Blue Tea, together with the whole Eau de Luckily, however, some things remain the same, a selection of design objects and furnishing on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration Parfum and Eau de Toilette range, personal and ambient products and accessories such as the pleasure, before or after shopping, accessories from the Marni Moon Walk collection >> www.luisaviaroma.com work, museum loans or changes by The Merchant of Venice, at the brand’s Florentine boutique located a few yards of management. Ask your concierge. of taking a relaxing break on the terrace. Here created by Colombian artisans and presented at Via Roma, 19/21r. from Palazzo Strozzi. www.themerchantofvenice.com the café Floret, an oasis of design and nature, the most recent Milan Furniture Fair. T: 055 9064116. Map F3

20 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. This pink gold bracelet by BULGARI is Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun The 4 colour shades of the ‘Les 4 Ombres the reinterpretation of ancient Roman Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Blurry Green’ palette by CHANEL offer coins in a modern vein. Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 219041. Map E3 Map F3 countless possibilities for combinations. 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 290284. Map F3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. T: 055 212995. Map E4 T: 055 2670157. Map E4 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 MISSONI—www.misson.com. Map F3 75927010. Map F4 Open daily 10am-7pm. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ T: 055 215774. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. T: 055 219423. Map E3 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. T: 055 287931. Map E4 T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Healthy as the summer sun, these suede Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. sneakers by ASPESI are the ideal companions 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. for long days outdoors. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 Map E3 T: 055 219179. Map E3 2658082. Map E4 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli T: 055 288539. Map E3 3/r. Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. T: 055 264254. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; T: 055 286035. Map E3 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— T: 055 2670086. Map D3 T: 055 267471 Map E3 www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 285832. Map F3 40/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily T: 055 212305 Map E3 T: 055 9040100. Map E3 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— T: 055 2396786. Map E4 Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2398688. Map E4 10/r (corner of piazza della T: 055 292123. Map E4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Signoria). LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. STEFANO RICCI— Map E4 Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. www.stefanoricci.com. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open With a long dress with patchwork motif, soft multicolour cardigan and Palazzo Tornabuoni - The decorated shoulder strap of this Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. precious ballet flats, this total look by M MISSONI expresses a relaxed, MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Via dei Pescioni, 1. ‘Rainbow yellow’ bag by ETRO is a decorative Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. uninhibited mood without giving up on style. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 210856. Map F3 element that will not go unnoticed. T: 055 292347. Map E4

22 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the Giovanni Raspini million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers FINE ART ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm- • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- production of high-quality cashmere knitwear In the beating heart of the fashion district, the a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. and today boasts top-level production with total boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in displaying the garments, they have been replaced Antico Setificio Fiorentino 6499151. Map G1 Map F4 look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great Pitti Mosaici Annamaria Cammilli seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon- tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www. thanks also to its famous warping machine based Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine it has been present with its creations in shop defining itself as “a humanistic company”. out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and windows and display cases all over the world for www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited Map F3 workshop has been producing some of the most semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and Marina Rinaldi to provide coverings for walls, framed items and unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for crafted white bronze creations, always having a style lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. Elena Mirò Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often that is midway between minimalism and classicism anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. as the common denominator. From the design to 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been range of collections, featuring both contemporary entire made-to-measure residential projects all over www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- T: 055 213861. Map B3 synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Galleria Romanelli 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via refined and ever new style. From dresses to and accessories for a total look that exudes class The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down T: 055 282127. Map E6 Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 Aprosio outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure Luisaviaroma 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente- one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Richard Ginori 1735 creates jewellery accessories and products for of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, Tradition and excellence in the high-quality decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a Map F3 a meeting place for buyers and artists, where artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world Société Anonyme sculptors and their students carry out their work 2657725. Map F3 still produces accessories for the table and living Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 An independent shop of North-European daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km T: 055 210127. Map E2 conception inspired by the underground Work is done by commission on original sculptures, from Florence) using ancient working techniques. atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and Cassetti 1926 Italian style and international trends. www. of London, Berlin and New York (the name restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4 watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio Via dei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2 gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in Leone Cei & Sons that develops innovative projects with its own artisan the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in Torchio (Il) collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products Damiani and women’s collection that is only sold in-store models from a rare and abundant archive. The with refined materials such as Florentine leather, Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon production, entirely made in Florence, is destined hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also long goldsmithing tradition which it has always 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over devising new artisan articles with contemporary interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/ the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Map L3 following traditional procedures and using natural 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths products and pigmentations. A huge department is Map G6 Stefano Ricci in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited with the purest male elegance as the watchword. JEWELLERY & WATCHES Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ These, in short, are the values of the company editions, or produced on request and based on Angela Caputi Giuggiù Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has provided on antiques and on the reproduction of Dodo throughout the world. Sophisticated, original become a successful international group. From period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by creations made from unusual materials such as clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and 2396039. Map D3 pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. have been used as accessories by famous television SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun Papiro (Il) and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, Italian excellence all over the world, making 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces capable of creating a look or dressing up any type production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian 2741573. Map E4 objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and Valdichiana Outlet Village: craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and Fani Gioielli of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico shopping and quality music to a line of classic leather accessories. www. 7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies between the provinces of Arezzo and San Frediano district that has produced precious Siena, at the intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original the Siena-Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a typical ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion and sport, in addition Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3 to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much more besides. There are 140 In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% throughout the year, all amounting to a DEPARTMENT STORES known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the complete, high-quality commercial offer. For example, it is possible to find Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Rinascente of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, international customers, are genuinely unique pieces Hilfiger, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, Us Polo and many more besides. Thanks to its porticoes, home and design items. For women, proposals of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique shopping is pleasant in any weather conditions, since it is possible to be protected in the event of the best Italian and international brands range it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items both of rain and of warm summer sunshine. from the classic to the contemporary and for men and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. Valdichiana Outlet also abounds in events and initiatives: on Saturday 7 September the Village from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, www.angelacaputi.com Night will combine quality music, with the free concert by Giovanni Allevi, with tasting of the best exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 wines of Tuscany and the Italian Regions that host the other Outlet Villages of the Land of Fashion www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun network. For info on opening times, visit www.valdichianaoutlet.it and www.landoffashion.it. 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 T: 055 219113. Map F3

24 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of The best shopping prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Tax Free Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Refund Guide de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith and services, and is part of the European Union’s Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of value added tax system. Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand- The earrings of the ‘Oceano’ VAT refund . This refund does not cover the services made pieces and is a point of reference for collection by ANGELA CAPUTI EDITOR’S TIP supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. Florentines and others besides. GIUGGIÙ are a tribute to the colours A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: of the sea and the lively creatures the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for • you are a non-EU resident; over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised that live there. for personal or • the goods purchased are intended the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving family use only and are carried in your luggage; traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am- 154,94 Euro (VAT included); 1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice LEATHER should include a description of the goods purchased, Officine Panerai Cuoieria Fiorentina your personal information as well as the details of Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of your passport or any other equivalent document; the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the boasts a unique design and a strong identity that this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural third month after the month that you bought them; Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel • several specific customs formalities are space on the first floor is devoted to special sales bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), complied with; and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of for him and for her, offering excellent value for • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer watches from the historical Museum; on the ground money. Another strong point is the personalization within four months after the purchase was made. floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai requirements of customers, who can count Michelle be shown at the customs exit point when leaving enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Gianni Chiarini In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: the ideal place 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty and design. Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea The store has recently opened a new remarkable floor customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice three display tables; the first floor has two rooms of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan dedicated to women’s fashion, featuring the best of ready to wear, must be returned within four months from the date for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which when the document was issued. equipped customer care centre, where qualified has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. shoes, denim, sportswear and jewellery brands. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian Rolex technicians are available to look after the giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 The Rinascente department store in Florence, the Women’s Shoes areas truly is a hotbed Free” sign in its window). Il Bisonte located in Piazza della Repubblica, which for artisanal products devoted entirely to 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer Tiffany & Co. Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Located in the luxury shopping street par about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion has been the commercial heart of the city women’s fashion. A brand new guise for the for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in since the Roman Age, is spread over a total department store, which proposes, side-by- one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully the passenger from having to return the invoice to area of 3,300 square metres with seven side, clothes for her from accessible luxury is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and and advanced contemporary brands, ready major international airports or main border crossings. ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale to wear options, lingerie, bags, fragrances, Most major department stores have Tax Free engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: around the peninsula, the space is giving jewellery, sunglasses, shoes from luxury Refund offices and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned . its look a makeover to make shopping brands such as Aquazzura, Casadei, Stuart 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. leather which has the advantage of improving with Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: even more captivating and engrossing. Weitzman, Church’s and Fratelli Rossetti, the payment of a small administrative sum which de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. directly deducted The thread running through that is driving as well as urban style sneakers. Foodies is from the amount of VAT T: 055 215722. Map E4 refunded to the traveller. Vacheron Constantin Boutique the renovation of the Florentine store is can enjoy the “Tosca&Nino, the taste of 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund In the unique and exclusive setting that is artisanship, a concept that is very dear to tradition” restaurant and bar, open from Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine PASSION SHOPPING within a reasonable period of time, he or she the city. The restyling involves all the store’s breakfast till after dinner, which focuses on watchmaking design house in the world, founded AquaFlor should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the spaces and will be completed towards rigorously selected Tuscan products to enable in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is A perfume shop with the charm of past times, aforementioned companies. also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of the end of 2020. After the restoration of you to rediscover the pleasure of local food, 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, the fourth floor, offering a transversal from pappa al pomodoro to ribollita. directly by customs offices. the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A shopping experience combining fashion, Sepulchre, which came under the control of the studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund quality craftsmanship, design, beauty Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, products and food, the brand-new third ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica. 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE floor featuring the Women’s Clothing and Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113.

26 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada, perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. have shops at Il Forte, but there is also no Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers shortage of several boutiques where tradition and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its meets innovation, such as Angela Caputi production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift Giuggiù with its works of art for wearing, boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the or a few multibrand shops as Boutique packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. Fiacchini, that stands out for their choice of it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- international labels. But the real gems are the 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • historic shops, such as the one belonging to Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via Antonio Artigiano, who has been creating della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon hand-crafted footwear for more than forty 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. years now, and Giovanni del Forte, who T: 055 241748. Map l3 VALLI TESSUTI LEONE CEI & SONS manufactures hand-made clogs for VIPs and ALTA MODA See this page. See page 25. royal families, or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s La Ménagère shop of yesteryear, with its age-old charm CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store and bundles of precious fabrics. of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist, in addition completed by products for personal care, for the The nights, on the other hand, pass quickly, to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city environment and accessories. The essences are in fashionable nightspots such as Twiga or centre, in the space that was once occupied by the contained in packaging with designs inspired by the the historic La Capannina di Franceschi, an first Florentine household item shop, it combines glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the Sizing iconic venue from the 1960s, which has made industrial and recycled materials and design objects single-brand store provides a personalized layering Women,s clothes a powerful contribution to building up the service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www. Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat IT EUR US UK period and still today, with all its highs and T: 055 0750600. Map F1 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. 36 32 1 4 lows, it still succeeds in exciting. T: 055 216559. Map E3 Marioluca Giusti 38 34 2 6 Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not 40 36 4 8 The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant Valli Tessuti Alta Moda focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long without a touch of self-congratulatory A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around design objects for the table and more besides, in a A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele 42 38 6 10 pier stretching into the sea, the historic snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura. rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most 44 40 8 12 beach clubs with their striped umbrellas and Here, in the summer months, the days pass instance, there is the legendary market, and beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a glass and melamine collections are enhanced every 46 42 10 14 lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 you can find everything there. year with new models with colour shades ranging vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make the Liberty-style villas hidden away in the 48 44 12 16 kilometres long) and the pinewood. The Market at Forte dei Marmi is a from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire shade of the pinewood. This, and so much such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and more, is Forte dei Marmi, the seaside resort Among the historic establishments are genuine open-air boutique where you can by important international personalities such as the bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Women,s shoes in the province of Lucca that takes its name the Silvio, Piero and Annetta beach clubs, buy precious fabrics or ceramics for your Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 IT EUR US UK from the fort located in the town centre but more recently fashionable new entry seaside home, but also leather goods, hats 282485. Map D3 Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. 36 36 6 3 and from the marbles of the nearby Apuan international clubs such as Nikki Beach made of fine straw and cashmere cardigans, Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls 37 37 6.5 4 Alps. Located around an hour and a half (the one in Saint Tropez, in other words) all strictly Made in Italy. It goes without with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in SHOES by train from Florence, but also reachable are also doing well. saying that you cannot expect to find a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa 38 38 7.5 5 by bus (ask your concierge), since the early In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at neighbourhood market prices, but quality, Aquazzura 39 39 8.5 6 Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, Almarosa, frequented by footballers and as we know, has to be paid for. And then 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the 20th century it has fascinated industrialists 40 40 9 7 stars of the entertainment world, you can there are the focaccine, which, together with 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a 41 41 9.5 8 such as the Agnelli and Siemens families 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with and intellectuals such as Thomas Mann or go shopping in the boutiques in the town the bomboloni (cream buns) are the snacks modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes Luchino Visconti, to name just a few. The centre. And if you linger a while to watch the that symbolise summers in Versilia. You can Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, Men,s clothes major tourism boom occurred in the post- sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because buy them unfilled at the historic Focacceria di Santa Maria Novella European royalty and fashion insiders around the IT EUR US UK war period, when it became one of the most the shops stay open here till late evening in Valè, or Da Orlando, where they sell the filled UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. the summer months. versions. (C.Z.) Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- 50 46 36 36 glamorous holiday resorts in Italy. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. 52 48 38 38 Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican Map D4 convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has 54 50 40 40 been open to the public for over four centuries Salvatore Ferragamo 56 52 42 42 ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside 58 54 44 44 Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s 60 56 46 46 and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery single brand stores and represent a production par Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed excellence on account of their quality raw materials boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, Men,s shoes is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid accessories and perfume collections. The brand IT EUR US UK pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, 40 40 7.5 6 York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the 41 41 8 7 with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible their former splendour thanks to restoration work. decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of 42 42 8.5 8 to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the 43 43 9 9 complete the brand’s collections. Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive 44 44 10.5 10 footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. The Merchant of Venice 45 45 11.5 11 models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am- 46 46 12 12 T: 0584 80705. NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast 7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, T: 055 292123. Map E4

28 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 29 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. The “fiorentina” hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- Buca Mario relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary the most iconic dishes in Florence A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 the original and tell it apart from the menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 hundreds of impostors, there are pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this a few tips you need to know. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, with unwritten rules that the visitor Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by needs to know to avoid falling foul fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, Cibrèo Ristorante of the restaurant owner, paying over freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the odds and to make sure they get In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating the real thing. MARTINO DINI MARTINO Map G6 well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone from a specific cut of a young Chianina fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie PHOTO © cow, a part of the loin near the backbone Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus which has a T-bone in the middle. seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, It should be grilled at a very high fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try temperature, so that a fine crust forms com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this Notes of the Orient in the city 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. dish depends on the cooking: the meat www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 must be brown on the outside but red, Da Burde 0804. Map L4 In addition to the Michelin-starred Il Palagio, the more informal Atrium Bar & Lounge and the restaurant-pizzeria The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: Al Fresco, the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze boasts a new source of pride for fine dining. By Giulia Minero the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the a fiorentina must be eaten rare. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 here is an air of novelty at the Four cocktails with ingredients of Oriental inspiration of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Seasons Hotel Firenze and it has the created by mixologist Karem Pasqualetti, or else in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured available. And here is another sore point. aroma of the delicate Oriental notes of a more structured menu, with Asian flavours as Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go T fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina Pan-Asian cuisine. Recently, the Florentine hotel’s the watchwords. Among the dishes not to be at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people by weight. An average price to be sure of dining offer is enriched by the new Magnolia, missed are vegetable and shellfish tempura or waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- getting the real thing is around 50 euros IO Osteria Personale an exclusive Asian gastrobar in the heart of meat or fish sushi, with top-quality ingredients marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 a kilo. In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still the Gherardesca Gardens. The menu of this such as Japanese wagyu, king crab, lobster and conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera WITH. The traditional accompaniment is new destination, which is open in the evenings red shrimps. Furthermore, there is no shortage surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few usually cannellini beans, washed down Tuesdays to Sundays from June to September, of vegetarian proposals, such as “Nimono”, modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera with a glass of Chianti. comes from the collaboration between two multi- of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative the iconic dish by Haruo Ichikawa with bamboo, restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and WHERE. Here are four restaurants where Michelin-starred chefs, Vito Mollica and Haruo cardoncelli mushrooms, taro root potatoes, way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. Ichikawa, who has been running Italy’s first aubergines, mangetout and konjac cooked in soy In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi.

Michelin-starred ethnic restaurant, the Milanese sauce and mirin. DINI MARTINO seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Iyo, for some time now. Here the guests, sitting Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ indoors or outdoors on the veranda overlooking >> Magnolia c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; ristorante-perseus-firenze). La Ménagère PHOTO © closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso the garden, can treat themselves to an aperitif Via Capponi, 46. T: 055 2626477. Map L1 A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, (C.Z.) Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 with an Asian-style snack accompanied by fusion www.fourseasons.com/florence combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the Tuscan food Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni T: 055 20016 9 but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic www.oradariaristorante.com Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as Pappa col pomodoro Winter Garden by Caino home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from recipes but tending towards a more creative Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon biscuits are made by slicing up a long cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or roll of baked dough while still hot. In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F The dough is made with flour, sugar, restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli labels and a highly select menu of beers. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a

Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory fortified local wine called Vin Santo. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Winter Garden by Caino Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, c/o Hotel Saint Regis dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it Cibreo is a typical main course of Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants Piazza Ognissanti, 1 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, T: 055 27163770 Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken www.borgosanjacopo.com it comes from the winning combination of prime www.wintergardenbycaino.com chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the and onion. with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an Caino has come about from the creative liaison street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or labels, along with others that are little known but Gentian Shehi. Their menu brings the territory’s cooked in a herb broth and most Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative CANTINE PIZZA washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century way, with elements from every part of the globe, commonly served in a panino soaked Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong in the broth or topped with the local Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan based one is unmissable) or à la carte. delight for the senses. stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more parsley-based green sauce. crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe www.ilpalagioristorante.it and the taste buds. also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated salt and pepper. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the environment with tables both indoors and bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, Pizzaiuolo (Il) kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega proposal that looks to the Italian and regional 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the boiled several times - derives from the the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality fact that in the old days peasants used to Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. make a large pot and serve it, heated up, ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts over a number of days, each time tastier include gems such as amberjack served in three ways venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via than before. (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan simple focaccia baked in a wood oven labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia and dressed with olive oil and salt at any Enoteca Pinchiorri or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Via Ghibellina, 87 La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising baker’s, but of course everyone has their SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

T: 055 242757 Giorgio). Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 MARCO PASQUINI flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp enotecapinchiorri.it www.laleggendadeifrati.it Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft and salty, or made with ancient grains. How do you manage to be honoured with Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €.

PHOTO © (C.Z.) Enoteca Pinchiorri famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei PHOTO © www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Il Palagio items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 classic Tuscan dishes. www.ilpalagioristorante.it Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine Local flavours and seasonal products for a Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al fresco. enclosed by sweeping picture windows that c/o Hotel Lungarno make the most of the unique position and Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene breathtaking view over the city. www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Villa La Vedetta Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com c/o Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace www.villalavedettahotel.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Just moments away from the Piazzale Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking wines from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also options too. The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant Winter Garden by Caino class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia c/o The Saint Regis Florence products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit just for its magnificent position looking over restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com Italian dishes. Piccini and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge menu shines an innovative spotlight on the garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze and lampredotto to more refined proposals in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection eyes and palate, in particular their original take times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from on tiramisù.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. APERITIVI pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria T: 055 242327. Map H5 Chiaroscuro Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Odeon Bistrot Florentines today are attracted by the original and Zoe Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del lighting. For years a favourite with the younger 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake Easy living zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Map H6 T: 055 215654. Map E4 (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of Procacci the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where BRUNCH This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning Ditta Artigianale institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6 best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging T: 055 211656. Map E3 brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Teatro del Sale Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co- Il Locale founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, Foody Farm Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original located in a small street not far from the Duomo. “The right food from the right places” is the motto brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate of this little restaurant where the quality and price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle original and genuine light lunch, with the option with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3 of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. Il Rifrullo and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3 In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in Piazza del Campo during the Palio di Siena summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. Enjoy Siena, it’s Palio time! The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: As well as indicating the silk banner awarded to the winners of the race, the name Palio di Siena 055 289810. Map E4 also denotes one of the most eagerly awaited events in Tuscany. By Giulia Minero Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the ’here are those who love it and those of lots and representing the 17 contrade of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. who hate it, but there are certainly very city, all dressed in garish clothing in the colours Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 few people who remain indifferent to of their contrada, compete in a race consisting T Se·Sto on Arno the fascination of the Palio di Siena, one of of three laps of the square, with saddles strictly The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs the oldest Tuscan traditions to be still active forbidden. An unusual detail? If the rider falls off, every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze today. The history of this competition among very frequently, given the absence of the saddle provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. the ‘Contrade’ - the ancient neighbourhoods and the high speed, a contrada can nevertheless www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 into which the city of Siena was divided - is win the race even if only the horse is the first ADVERTORIAL reminiscent of an equestrian joust of medieval to cross the finishing line. Although the race Signorvino origin. In the medieval period, in fact, the Palio lasts just a few minutes, the ritual parades This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and was the event that concluded the feast in honour that precede it and the atmosphere of festive snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. of Saint Mary the Virgin of the Assumption. It is competition among the contrade are part of city Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www. no coincidence that one of the two palios that life and give the Palio its unique charm. signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. GUCCI OSTERIA DA MASSIMO BOTTURA take place every year in Piazza del Campo, on Map F5 Located in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, the Gucci Osteria inside the Gucci Garden celebrates two things Italy is very much renowned for: fashion and cuisine. Head of the team 2 July (Palio di Provenzano) and on 16 August, is >> Palio dell’Assunta-16 August Three Sixty is Colombian chef Ana Karime Lopez Kondo, offering an explosive blend of flavours ranging called the Palio dell’Assunta. In this occasion 10 Piazza del Campo, Siena (80km from Florence) From May to September the Grand Hotel from Italy to the Orient, passing through Colombia and then all over the world. www.gucci.com riders and horses, selected through the drawing www.ilpalio.org Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its

38 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who artists of the period participated in its creation (the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi- Poggi”. Map I7 coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. the end of the 16th century, however, when it became Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and San Miniato al Monte city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto situated at one of the highest panoramic points in 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, Battistero Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between however, for those with problems walking). The outside Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 of the church is decorated with green and white Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli building that completes the considerably striking 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the The symbol of wealth and power, the building was appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but façade. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte th inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. It is Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th Mercato Centrale outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the The building is located on the left bank of the river, entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, important examples of Italian-style gardens in the by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. the historic covered market there has been a complex reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity Currently they are the site of four different museums: containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery activities and street food options, and this has now are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www. and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art become a point of reference for informal but good ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo- www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6 Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1 Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation VASCO FIGUEIREDO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VASCO of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del

PHOTO © Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. All mad about David it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 The Accademia Gallery offers one of the most important collections of ancient Italian painting, Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of but the long queues of visitors are mostly for Michelangelo. By Elena Peverata civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, t is the second museum site in Italy after Fine Arts on the premises of a fourteenth- of the Sabine Women by Giambologna (see page the square has been gradually enhanced over the the Uffizi in terms of receipts, and this century hospital and former convent, and 43), whose definitive work can be seen in the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale statistic can be easily explained: in its gradually expanded it thanks to works Loggia dei Lanzi; the most important collection I della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle crowded spaces (1.7 million visitors in 2018!) recovered through the suppression of churches of gold background paintings; and the Museum Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square the Accademia Gallery displays the largest and ecclesiastical sites. But the key event for of Musical Instruments, where instruments by are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues number in the world of sculptures by one of the history of the museum was undoubtedly Stradivari and Bartolomeo Cristofori, inventor of of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties important sculptural cycles in the world. The most the greatest artists the transfer, in 1873, of the piano, are on display. The Gallery hosts famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo PItti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno of the Renaissance, Michelangelo’s David In summary: the Gallery is a museum not to be display in its original position is a copy, whereas the district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of Michelangelo various masterpieces from Piazza della Signoria missed, but if you prefer to avoid the crowds, original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Buonarroti, among by great Italian artists (where a copy is now on take advantage of the summer evening Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious which the very famous, display), and its subsequent openings (Tues and Thurs, 7pm-10pm) and Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; beloved and admired David, which alone is siting in the specially designed Gallery. Apart enjoy the David in total relaxation. Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest able to mobilise long and patient queues at the from David, today the rooms of the Gallery of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one entrance, all indifferent to the summer heat and host various masterpieces by great Italian >> Accademia Gallery important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its winter cold. For the birth of the Gallery we must artists, such as Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Via Ricasoli, 58/60. imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. thank Pietro Leopoldo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, Ghirlandaio, Pontormo, Andrea del Sarto T: 055 0987100. Map G1-H1 its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffici.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 who in 1784 organised the new Academy of and others; the fascinating model for the Rape www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.

40 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) Santa Croce coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10. – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della make it the headquarters for his company and his and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts Museo di Santa Maria Novella Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www. appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of th 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full 13 -century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 his great masterpieces here and the French writer ticket price: €12. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Museo Stefano Bardini that has been known since then as the “Stendhal 2388609/612. Map G2 Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. Museo degli Innocenti Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present his private collection to Florence, where it was www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale rare examples of the Florentine painting of the displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that 055 2466105. Map H4 degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened 14th and 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am- housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today 7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www. items there, including sculptures, paintings and Santa Maria Novella it continues its function as the “Institute of the museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 the 18th century, with a major presence of works Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and 282187. Map E3 from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. www. dates back to the end of the 13th century but work authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Museo Giardini di Boboli museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 on it continued for centuries, so the church, with • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6 its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a the Firenzecard circuit and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance • Priority access to museums without needing to book (check the website for any the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers first responsible for designing their layout, Orsanmichele styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. creating the model of the Italian- A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, temporary suspension of priority access) www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima style garden that was to become an religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio • 72 hours available Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 example for many European courts. in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - • If you add €7 you can get Firenzecard+, that includes the access to the city’s Populated by ancient and Renaissance Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. public transport for 72 hours from the activation for the cardholder. Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure statues, adorned with grottos - including houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Map D2-E2 www.firenzecard.it An elegant collection of the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by works made of semi- large fountains, such as those of Neptune famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Santo Spirito precious stones and and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa multi-coloured marble and museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the dynamic cultural centre that hosts international scagliola, paintings on stone pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor point of reference of the Augustinian order. The 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the and oil paintings, instruments, the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria church has given its name to the entire surrounding print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present plus an extensive collection of the centre of the Rose Garden is the del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, stone samples. The works are Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. the café and the museum shop, which looks out displayed in chronological the Porcelain Museum. Closed first entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was Map F2 onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, order from the early 17th and last Monday of the month. Full orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. performances, contemporary art installations and Cappella Brancacci century to the 1880s. Open ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza 2388606. Map F4 basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 210030. Map D5 Santa Maria del Fiore Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza on Sundays and holidays. Museo Nazionale del Bargello The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria San Lorenzo house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via This imposing building, built between del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of degli Alfani, 78. the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Forte di Belvedere T: 055 218709. Map H1 of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, combination of art, faith and history located in the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Museo di Palazzo was a lowly prison between 1574 and city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the were left unfinished and were eventually completed Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti Vecchio 1858. The Museum conserves a highly centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. For over seven centuries important collection of Renaissance Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open The fort currently hosts top-level events and Palazzo della Signoria, sculptures, with masterpieces by of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with is the result of the last major reconstruction work Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of or Palazzo Vecchio, has Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo that took place in the 15th century at the wishes Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www. been the symbol of the Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single of the Medici and under the direction of the great Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www. museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, city’s civil power, and and prestigious collections of “lesser ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 1. Map F7 today it is still the seat arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. with prior booking necessary for the Dome. was intended to receive a rich marble decoration 14. T: 055 2768224-558-2382195. Map C5 Galleria degli Uffizi of the Municipal Council Museum full ticket price: €9. www. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately Cappelle Medicee The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and of Florence. Built in 1299, bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/ T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state second floors of the large building erected between over time it has undergone bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare Villa Bardini and Gardens museum, but their history is closely associated 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; numerous enlargement 282902. Map G4 expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana. The most beautiful view of Florence earned it with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which it is one of the most famous museums in the world and transformation projects. org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 Museo Salvatore Ferragamo the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a they are part. The museum consists of the New on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient Along its labyrinthine 214042. Map F2 This is a museum devoted to the place rich in history, art and culture, has become Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings routes are rooms and private history of the Ferragamo company, an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain environments sumptuously to the life of its founder, Salvatore exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum MUSEUMS & of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to decorated by some of the most Ferragamo, and to his creations. (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also famous artists of the Florentine EXHIBITION SITES Every year it organises exhibitions realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish Renaissance, with period furnishings that investigate the relationship (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains the funeral painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. and exceptional masterpieces. between fashion and art. The being restructured). In addition, there is also a Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open daily 8.15am- Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the 1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: €8. www. degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | THE RAPE OF THE SABINE WOMEN Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna The complex and magnificent sculptural group conserved in the Loggia dei Lanzi, The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. gained by ascending the monumental staircase degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 in Piazza della Signoria, is the original of the marble masterpiece by Giambologna (1583). designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the In the Museum of the Academy, on the other hand, it is possible to admire the life-size plaster Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria preparatory model for it, executed by the artist himself (see page 40). Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. private architecture of the Renaissance and a (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August Map G6-G

42 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s the tram: the ticket must be validated using the purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord machines on the bus. holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices Can be used on buses, trams or trains. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com 5650555). 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: gestramvia.com) NEW The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

44 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 45 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA A COSTA VIA ANDRE

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I V I A C A R L O D E L G R E C O Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo SC ONI CI ALE 54 D EI BO STRADA PROVIN PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’AP

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

A POLINARE

V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

AENTINA V A N N VIA F I

PONTE D A

F VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto T Amerigo VIA VECCHIA FIESOLANA T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO DA MAIANO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VIA SAN DOMENICO V. ARI O

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L I V. F. BARACCA A N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I UCCI MUGNONE

I VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA VIA FAENTINA

L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA BOLOGNESE V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D A P I S T O I A VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I CARACCIOLO F.V. VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO

STA PIAZZA Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O ACIO A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte V I A C A V O U R E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO F M V IA V E N E Z IA Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLO Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA P EI R C A P P O N I A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA VIA G.LA PIRA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V I A A N T O N I O C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA PORTA AL LO VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I L LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SANTA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA G A B D EM U I F A I V F H B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I C E I L AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI A R N O Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa Opera di San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI Amerigo Vespucci di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Firenze Fortezza 11 Mugello Fiesole Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Airport (4km) V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo da Basso Piazza 30km 8km degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL San Marco DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A V.Z CENTRALE V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO 1 Stazione Ferroviaria VIA DE’GINORI ANNUNZIA 1 VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I Florence Map LI ORI

VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI OC IN Spedale degli Innocenti VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO V AI S O L F E R NI O SO degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A CD AME LAG RDPV OI ' N DELLA STAZIONE A V I A C A V O U R VIA MILAZZO VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI V AI M A S A C C OI D E ’ COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB . L DEI NELLI VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VIA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo ateri V I A R I C VIA DEI SERVI .C na 15 Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A C O L O N N A Sie Medici Riccardi O S da Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . P. DI MADONNA C BORGO PINTI V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci VIALE MANFREDO FANTI L’ISOLOTTO V. DEGLI AVELLI Basilica A V AI D E G L IA L F A N I VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI L

VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa 13 C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO VIA MARSALA P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa 2 Polimoda Santa Maria 2 V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A 1 Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA 2 LO FARINI VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO 3 NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO A OBERDAN di San VIA DEL SOLE I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele LLESCHI VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA VIA

e Gaetano NE

VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO ECCHIETTI V A AMI . A N Z O N I ROMA

U OSUE' CARDUCCI V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I DI SAN V V. I VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI I VIA DELLE OCHE VIA DELLA SPADA DELLO B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VIA DEI PEPI G

BR V SALVI IA VIA DEL PORCELLANA VIA DI MEZZO MATTONAIA LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI O V

DEI DE' A VIA DEL PONTE SOSPESO L

ONI

A

CIONI VIA FRA DIAMANTE VIA DEL CHIESINO I STUDI A S

V IA L U N G A V

VIA DI MONTICELLI 3 3

SO I MEDICI BU VI Chiesa PE Chiesa di

IUOLI E A Santa Margherita DELL VIA FELICE CAVALLOTTI VIA DEI FOSSI Museo Ponte D Sant'Ambrogio San Michele a San Salvi VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO V. D. V. ZA in S.M. dei Ricci O VIA L. MANARA VIA FRA' FILIPPO LIPPI

Marino Marini RN V.

Amerigo Vespucci PIAZZA CON PIAZZA P. GAETANO VIA VIA DEL MORO VIA DEGLI STROZZI DELLA V. SPEZIALI VIA CORSO

CAL BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI SALVEMINI

T O RO P. SAN VIA PIETRAPIANA

REPUBBLICA P PIER VETTORI V. M Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli V I A P I S A N A E I PIER

CHI A R N O Palazzo L ARTIRI VIA DEI FEDERIGHI P. DEGLI MAGGIORE Loggia BORGO LA CROCE P. DEI D V. GIORDANO BRUNO A D E I Strozzi DEL POPOLO VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA Chiesa STROZZI TRE RE ER del Pesce VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA DE VIA DEL PURGATORIO VI VIA Di San Bartolomeo VIA DELL'ANCONELLA VIA DEGLI ANSELMI P. DEI SGC FIRENZE - PISA - LIVORNO PIAZZA IA

E I C VIA DELL'ULIVO PIAZZALE V PIAZZA PIER VIA PISANA a Monte Oliveto GOLDONI CIOMPI VIA DEI PARIONE VIA TAVOLINI I VIA ANTONIO DEL POLLAIOLO Loggia dell’ D VIA DANTE VIA DEI PANDOLFINI Porta alla Croce VIA DEL GUARLONE

V I A M A S O L I N O A Orsanmichele P. LORENZO V. V. DA BISTICCI ZIN DELLA V. DELL’INFERNO D Palazzo P. PIETRO

L DELLA LUNGARNO SODERINI Arte della Lana VIA VIA DEL PIAGGIONE Palazzo San Carlo GHIBERTI ANNIGONI V I A S C I P I O N E A M M I R A T O

GAZ Badia Borghese VIA LAMBERTI VIA DI SAN SALVI FEDERIGA Porta San Frediano Palazzo Corsini delle dei Lombardi PIAZZA A PIAZZA FRANCESCA V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O DEI CERCHI Fiorentina VIA GHIBELLINA Mercato di MONA al Parione Poste M I Museo Ponte E VIA FRA' PAOLO SARPI VIA S. ONOFRIO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA

VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salimbeni Palazzo VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S. Frediano SO E D PIAZZA I D EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo 4 DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O 4 BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo di San Firenze I VIA DE VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA IA FIO Chiesa V.D.B A 4 PACCI 4 D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILL VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C A Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia RA LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO D VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O VIA DEL LEONE

V I A M A S O D I B A N C O VIA LUDOVICO ARIOSTO E E Romano

VIA DEL DRAGO D'ORO I DEL BE Ponte VIA LAMBERTESCA B

IA POR VIA CIMABUE

V di Firenze SANTA CROCE

ORO . A L O D N E M A I N N A V O I G E L A I V

’ VIA VINEGIA VIA DELL’ORTO Santa Trinita NE VIA DEL LEONE V BORGO ALLEGRI BORGO DELLA STELLA BORGOVIA SANTO DEI GEPPI SPIRITO V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E PIAZZA Palazzo ELL 5 12 D V I A P I S A N A . Santo Stefano VIA DI SOFFIANO V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Gucciardini VI DEL CARMINE al Ponte V.d. MAGALLOTTI Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI NERI Palazzo della Missione Uzi VIA DEI MACCI VIA DELLE CASINE PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIROLAMI DEL GRANO CHE Basilica di V I A A R E T I N A LU 7 VIA DEI RUSTICI V IA P IE T R O T H O U A R VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO DE' FRESCOBALDI NGARNO NTO San Remigio BRA VIA DEI BENCI Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA 7 A Chiesa V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O San Jacopo 6 AR LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI E Evangelica Ponte Vecchio CH ELLANI D San Giuseppe IB A Palazzo USIERI VIA DE Metodista VIA DEL GHIRLANDAIO BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI AST VI Cappella Pazzi VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO Macchiavelli VIA DELLO SPRONE C VIA DI CAMALDOLI VIA DEI SERRAGLI TERIA d. GU I N Chiesa di ANGIOLIERI OSCA ERI BORGO SANTA CROCE 14 VIA M Santa Maria del Carmine V. OS VIA SANT’AGOSTINO VIA DEI SAPONAI VIA E VIA MAFFIA VIA DEI VAGELLAI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA I V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI SIN VIA PIAGENTINA 7 DEI GIUDICI NC Basilica di Santo Spirito VI A D EI BARBADORI C O R A V. DEI VELLUTINI PIAZZA VIA V. 5 LUNGARNO GENERALE DIAZ MALENCHINI, A. MAGLIABECHI 5 S O D E I T I N T O R I C PIAZZA MENTANA VIA DI V.SCANDICCI DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA VIA DE BARDI E V I A A R N O L F O V VIA VIA TOSCANELLA Biblioteca Nazionale TORQUATO TASSO IA DEI VELLUTI VIALE DELLA GIOVINE ITALIA V I A A R E T I N A V. SPRONE PIAZZA Giardini di Bellariva Centrale di Firenze DELL Santi Vito e Modesto SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA VIA DEI BE VIA DELLA CHIESA MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA VIA D'ARDIGLIONE A R N O PIAZZA V V. M. MINGHETTI SANTO SPIRITO L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E V I A T R I P O L I VIA DE' GUICCIARDINI Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA VIA DELLA BELLARIVA VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRUCC. DEI PITT FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COSTA DEI MAGNO LUNG D E B A R D I LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA V IA D E L F IL A R E T E Italia.Where © 2019. Copyright C O ARNO TORRIGIANI Torre della Zecca ST Ponte VIA GAETANO PILATI V. DEL MADONNONE A SAN G Palazzo VIA MAGGIO VIA TOSCANELLA7 alle Grazie VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO I Guadagni VIA DEL CAMPOFIORE LUNGARNO PECORI GIRALDI V I A

N VIA MAZZETTA I O R N GIO LI L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O CASELLINA V. DEI PRETI V. MARSILI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO VIA VILLANI Ex monastero TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) PIAZZA O R LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA C P U C PIAZZA O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di 8 V I A DE’ R 6 VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO San Felice D E B A R D I MOZZI 6 T in Piazza VIA DEI RENAI VIA DELLE CALDAIE Palazzo Pitti PIAZZA I E COSTA P Top in Town see page 5 GIUSEPPE Ponte Ponte E L U N G A R N O C E L L I N I B E N V E N U T O San Niccolò Giovanni da Verrazzano L S POGGI V I A Teatro Goldoni AN GIORGI S. Niccolò Sopr'Arno 1 VIA DEL CASONE 6 11 V I A R O M A N A

DUOMO AND CUPOLA PONTE VECCHIO MERCATO CENTRALE VIA DI SAN NICCOLO' Porta San Niccolò

VIA DEI SERRAGLI O

V I A D E L L A F O R N A C E

7 12 V IA D E I B A S T IO 2

BATTISTERO CORRIDOIO VASARIANO SANTA CROCE VIA

DE

Giardino Corsi PIAZZA

L PIAZZA L U N G A R N O F R A N C E S C O F E R R U C C I

3 8 PALAZZO PITTI 13 M VIALE GIUSEPPE POGGI ONT

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO SANTA MARIA NOVELLA RAVENNA

AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FRANCESCO E N

Giardino Bardini ALLE C

V. P

Villa Dell’Ombrellino I FERRUCCI

4 14

OGGIO BRACCI V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 9 SANTO SPIRITO

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO R

AND PALAZZO VECCHIO V I A R O M A N A OCI

9 V. M O N A C H I V I A G I A M P A O L O O R S I N I

7 15 Forte di Belvedere 7 PIAZZA

10 Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino SAN LORENZO DRESDA 5 IPPOLITOVIA PINDEMONTE SAN MINIATO AL MONTE

GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI 8 VIA DI BELVEDERE PIAZZALE VIA NICCOLO' DA UZZANO

Giardino di Boboli OLIN V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

VIA ERTA CANINA ERTA VIA MICHELANGELO Giardino dell'Iris PONTE A VARLUNGO

SAN NICCOLO’VIADEIB O I VIA RICORBOLI V I A C O L U C C I O S A L U T A T I

PIAZZA V I A D E L L E N A Z I O N I U N I T E O N A I C S U R I D A I V VIA 10 L V V. G. BANDE NERE SHOPPING AREAS . ENTERTAINMENT AREAS Siena DE GAVINANA G.

Museo delle Porcellane Camping O L ALD M.CECC M V. R. DA MANDELLO 46 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 80km Palazzo Pitti www.wheretraveler.com 47 I V. M A R S U P P I N I PIAZZA ONT LARGO A R E Z Z I V S A I V ▼ A I F L E D A L I F A I V A K A I V

OVINI

G GUALFREDOTTO E PIETRO PAOLO

A B C D E F G H ALLE C I L O L O P O C R A M A I V

DA MILANO BOSCOLI

N O G R U B M I D E A I V VIA DEI SERRAGLI H AN GN OI T D. . VL O T O Y K A I V V I V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A V E I K A I V

VIA DI SCANDICCI RO V AI D RI PI O L I I A

CI A Chiesa V. F. DEGLI UG

L L Santa Maria a Ricorboli S S E VIA UGO FOSCOLO Chiesa di I C H E L VIA M A

San Salvatore al Monte N E L E

G VIA DELL’ERTA CANINA

DI SADI H

V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L Rusciano V. G. CAPONSACCHI PIAZZA L

A

Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

G I

Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

E

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

I AN GN OI T D. . VL

V

VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

VI E

AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

L A N

E E L B

E R

A I N

A R V

D MONTE O M EN N DSO AI A PIAZZA L VIUZZO DELLE LAME RA V IA D I R IP O L I DEGLI I O V I A O L A N D A C I VIALE EUROPA UNGANELLI G H V I A G I N E L A

VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

A TORRE DEL PIAZZA

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ONLY [ ] IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online Where Florence Magazine Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Florence!

FREE FREE HOTSPOT CALLS INTERNET WIFI

HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Baptistery bird’s eye view PHOTO ©

5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • • Off Map Off Map

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

AUGUST 2019 10 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r ®

• Map C2 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE 4 STARS Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Unusual AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 shapes Contemporary art invades the Boboli Gardens

FLORENCE IN A PICTURE Point your camera

and express your artistic side

ITALIAN-STYLE www.manetmobile.com GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION/WHERE-FLORENCE seasonal trends

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS [email protected] 48 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2019 6519_VOV_WHERE FLORENCE_207x277_luglio.indd 1 16/07/19 17:45