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Home , Bardini Gardens, Garden of Archimedes, Le Sieci, Palazzo Spini Feroni, Parco delle Cascine, Piazza Santa Croce

AGENZIA PER IL TURISMO FIRENZE Florence can boast many histories – artistic, financial, religious, the central point of the city’s political and cultural development. cultural, political. These are so rich that it is impossible to sum By virtue of its geographic position and social climate, Florence them up in a few short lines. One word, however, has always dis- exercised a function of equilibrium in the history and art of the pe- tinguished the city in the eyes of the world: the Renaissance. riod known as the Renaissance.

After various vicissitudes involving the Florentine Republic and history

Medici restorations, another historic era started for Florence in a brief 1530 with the establishment of the Grand Duchy of . The The early Etruscan settlements sprang up on the hill of , power of the city grew, reaching a peak with the defeat of arch-ri- while the Romans established themselves (in 59 BC) on the plain val Siena in 1555. The House of the Medici died out in the 18th around the Arno. The Forum of Roman Florentia was situated where century, giving way to the rule of the Habsburg-Lorraine, under Piazza della Republica stands today, and the inner circle of walls whom Florence also conquered Lucca (1847). Finally, the Duchy ran along today’s Via Tornabuoni, Via Cerretani and Via del Pro- entered the Kingdom of in 1859 following a plebiscite. consolo. Florence was the capital of unified Italy from 1865 to 1870, dur- Miniato and Reparata were the first patron saints of Florence, ing which time Giuseppe Poggi produced an urban planning proj- which became an episcopal see in the 4th century. The city was ect that deeply modified the appearance of the city and involved the granted the right to independent government by Countess Matilde, pulling down of the city walls. thus paving the way for its subsequent economic supremacy as a The beginning of the 20th century was also marked by the start of Guelph city with strong papal ties, in competition first with Fiesole industrial development in the city, which meshed with the existing and then with Siena and Pisa. Guelphs and Ghibellines, Bianchi and craft businesses in an original way, leading to the creation of a Neri, nobles, the bourgeois and trading classes all vied for power multitude of family-run enterprises. The post-war period, with the in Florence, leading to social unrest and strife, conquests, alliances reconstruction of what had been destroyed and the expansion of and even to requests by the comune for foreign intervention. the city until it joined up with other nearby centres (Scandicci, After the establishment of a people’s government of sorts and the Sesto, ) is contemporary history. conquest of Pisa, Florence achieved dominion over the whole of Today, Florence does not just live on its glorious civic and cultur- Tuscany, with the exception of Siena and Lucca. al past. It is also an important centre for craft and commercial, in- The year 1434 marked the beginning of Medici rule, which became dustrial and artistic activities. florence florence florence city centre city centre

VISITING THE CITY: petraia ITINERARIES stibbert One day in Florence 6 Two days in Florence 10 Longer stays 14 orto in Florence botanico villa s.marco Thematic itineraries porta il ventaglio 18 a prato s.s.annunziata in Florence stazione centrale s. maria novella galleria Parks and gardens 22 dell’accademia in Florence cappelle medicee Ideas for visiting le cascine palazzo museo archeologico the surrounding area 24 medici riccardi spedale degli innocenti Visiting the city 26 independently s.maria duomo novella s.maria del fiore Museums 27 s.lorenzo Guided tours of the city 28 battistero museo s.giovanni dell’opera del duomo campanile CITY SERVICES di museo palazzo di antropologia Information offices 30 strozzi museo Protecting porta del porta 31 beccaria the rights of tourists s.frediano Getting around in the city 32 galleria degli Getting around in chiesa s.croce the surrounding area 34 del carmine museo Health information 36 s.spirito horne Post offices, banks and bureau de change 38 palazzo Internet points 40 pitti giardino fiume arno Public lavatories 41 bardini museo bardini porta s.niccolò CITY LIFE forte Major events 42 giardino di boboli piazzale Florence for children 46 Food and drink 50 porta romana s.miniato Shopping 54 Arts and crafts 56 Nightlife 58 one day one day in florence in florence

s. maria del fiore giotto’s campanile 1 One day in Florence: atory of San Michele. It became a place of worship due to the baptistery the city deserves a little munificence of the trade guilds which, between the 14th and palazzo della signoria 2 longer than that, but a loggia dei lanzi one-day visit will at least the 16th centuries, adorned it with sculptures and paintings 1 orsanmichele 3 3 give you an idea. With just of the highest standard. There are sculptural works by Do- uffizi gallery 2 ponte vecchio 4 4 one day at your disposal, natello, Verrocchio, Ghiberti and Nanni di Banco, amongst 6 you will want to see 5 others. At the far end of Via dei Calzaiuoli you come to Piaz- the main sites and walk s. spirito 6 za della Signoria, the political heart of the city. 5 around the heart of the historic city centre. PALAZZO DELLA SIGNORIA, or Palazzo Vecchio, which is the seat of Florence City Council besides housing a museum, was built at the end of the 13th century. As you walk into the in- 6 terior courtyard, you can admire a putto-decorated fountain 7 Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the Baptistery and the BRIEF BRIEF by Verrocchio and frescoes by Vasari. Also in the piazza is the ITINERARIES cathedral of SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE face each other. The ITINERARIES 14th-century LOGGIA DEI LANZI, which displays famous stat- cathedral was begun by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296, but it was ues such as Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus and Gi- not until 1436 that it was crowned by the Cupola, Filippo ambologna’s Rape of the Sabines. Adjoining Brunelleschi’s masterpiece. The dome is the symbol of Flo- .it Palazzo Vecchio is the imposing UFFIZI o rence, a bold and majestic piece of architecture that affords m GALLERY. Designed by Vasari in the 16th is fantastic views of the city (and of the cathedral interior). r century as the Medici secretariat, it is On the façade side of the cathedral is the boldly coloured u now one of the most important mu- t campanile of Giotto, which also has fine views of the city. In e seums in the world. The gallery con- front of the Cathedral stands the older, Romanesque-style z

tains paintings ranging from early n

BAPTISTERY of San Giovanni, embellished with bronze e

masters (Cimabue, Giotto) through to r

doors by Ghiberti and Andrea Pisano. i

f

Mannerism, with a splendidly repre- .

Walking along the lively Via dei Calzaiuoli, you

sentative selection of Renaissance art by w

will pass by ORSANMICHELE, a 14th-century

the likes of Botticelli, Filippo Lippi, Paolo w building that started out life as a granary w Uccello, Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. situated on the site of the ancient or- one day in florence

A visit to the gallery requires sever- where you can soak up the lively atmosphere of this corner al hours. If you do not have time, of the city. The neighbourhood is packed with craft trades, continue on foot towards PONTE and has a very authentic feel to it. Piazza Santo Spirito, one VECCHIO, another symbol of of the few piazzas in the city with trees in it, is overlooked by the city, which has survived beautiful palazzos and by the church of Santo Spirito, which wars and flooding. Since the was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in 1444. Besides the 16th century, the buildings pure architectural lines of the façade, the church also boasts on the bridge have been oc- a number of important artworks. cupied by goldsmiths. Crossing the bridge, you find yourself di là d’Arno, that is, turismo.it 8 ‘beyond the Arno’, an important notion in Florence. Of the 9 BRIEF BRIEF ITINERARIES four historic neighbourhoods, three (San Giovanni, Santa ITINERARIES Maria Novella and Santa Croce) are north of the river, while firenze just one, Santo Spirito, is on the left bank. The main thoroughfare continuing on from Ponte Vecchio will bring you to Piazza Pitti, which is dominated by the www. façade of the majestic PALAZZO PITTI. Of 15th-century origin, it was acquired by Eleonora, the wife of Cosimo I, and be- came the new residence of the Medici family, who had previously been in Palazzo della Signoria. It was en- larged and embellished with a magnificent park, the The double-vaulted Boboli Gardens. Palazzo Pitti houses a cluster of dome of the Baptistery different museums, one of which are the was studied carefully by Filippo Brunelleschi gardens themselves. If you still before he erected have some time, head towards the Cupola Piazza Santo Spirito, of Santa Maria del Fiore. two days two days in florence in florence

train station 1 If you have two days ful rooms are used for art exhibitions, and it has a large in- s. maria novella 2 1 6 to visit Florence, 5 ternal courtyard that is always open. 3 4 7 you can obviously 2 palazzo Continuing on towards Piazza della Repubblica you arrive in medici riccardi 4 cover more. s. lorenzo 3 This itinerary can be what was the heart of the city in Roman times. The modern- 5 medici chapels used for one day as day piazza was laid out in the 19th century. If you walk along museo s. marco well, to see something 6 to and across Piazza Duomo, you will find yourself in Via accademia gallery different or if you have spedale Martelli. After about a hundred metres you will eturismo.it degli innocenti already been in enz church of 7 .fir s.s. annunziata the city for a while. run into another large Renaissance w archaeology museum w building, . w This was designed by Michelozzo for 10 Cosimo il Vecchio de’ Medici towards the Situated not far from the RAILWAY STATION of Santa Maria BRIEF middle of the 15th century. Indeed, the ITINERARIES Novella, a masterpiece of early 20th-century rationalist archi- whole neighbourhood was shaped by tecture, is the basilica that gave the station its name: SANTA the Medici family. The Palazzo, the seat MARIA NOVELLA, a 13th-century church of the Dominican or- of the Province of Florence, is also a muse- der. It has an elegant façade in green and white marble, and um with some magnificent reception rooms a beautiful Gothic interior with a wealth of frescoes and some and a splendid Chapel frescoed by Benozzo masterpieces of Renaissance art. Adjoining the church is the Gozzoli. If you are short on time you can just Museum of the same name. wander in and take a look at the courtyard, or Narrow, atmospheric alleyways lead to Via Tornabuoni, walk through the recently opened Galleria dei the city’s most elegant street, backing onto which is the Medici, which brings you out into Via Ginori. imposing bulk of PALAZZO STROZZI. Built by Benedetto From here you can head towards two other sites associated da Maiano to a commission by Filippo Strozzi, with the Palazzo: the nearby church of San Lorenzo and the it is one of the most important Re- convent of San Marco. SAN LORENZO was the church of the naissance buildings in Flo- Medici family. Its current layout, a sublime example of Re- rence. Some of the naissance architecture, was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. Palazzo’s beauti- two days in florence

The façade was never completed, while the interior houses a Santissima Annunziata, which is surrounded by porticoes number of fine paintings. Around the church are various oth- and buildings, the most important of which is the SPEDALE er significant attractions, including the Laurentian Library, DEGLI INNOCENTI, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. the Old Sacristy and the Medici Chapels, with the New Sac- The Spedale was established as a foundling hospital as early risty, one of Michelangelo’s masterpieces. In the streets sur- as 1440, and houses a museum and other very interesting rounding the church is a colourful open-air market. areas. The BASILICA OF SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA dates back to Popular with tourists, it sells clothing and the middle of the 13th century and was built for the Order of accessories. Returning to Palazzo Medici the Servants of Mary. Inside there are frescoes by Andrea del and walking along Via Cavour you will Sarto, Franciabigio, Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino. come to the piazza with the CHURCH To the left of the church, on the corner with Via Capponi, is OF SAN MARCO and the adjoining the entrance to the ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM, which contains 13 BRIEF convent. The convent of San Marco, extremely significant Etruscan, Roman and above all Egypt- ITINERARIES belonging to the Dominicans of ian collections. When visiting the museum, be sure to go Fiesole, was one the city’s major centres for intellectual pur- out into the beautiful garden, where a number suits. Cosimo il Vecchio invested heavily to enlarge and em- of Etruscan tombs have been reconstructed. bellish it. The Museum of San Marco, which is housed in the convent, contains a series of Renaissance frescoes by Beato Angelico; the fabulous library was the work of Michelozzo. The statue of , a symbol of courage and victory for A stone’s throw from Piazza San Marco is the ACCADEMIA Florence, was sculpted by Michelangelo when he was just 26 years old. turism GALLERY ze o. , one of Florence’s most visited museums because it en it ir houses Michelangelo’s celebrated David. However, the muse- .f um also displays other interesting sculptures by the same w

w artist and a rich collection of Tuscan paintings from the 13th w to the 16th century. From the Gallery it is just a short walk to the harmonious Piazza longer stays longer stays in florence in florence

museo dell’opera del duomo 1 If you are in Florence the Baroque building that houses the city’s court house (due museum of natural for a longer stay, to be moved elsewhere). Then, walking along narrow streets history bargello national 2 or have visited the city museum that retrace the perimeter of an ancient Roman amphitheatre, 1 before, the following church of s. croce 2 you arrive at the broad expanse of . 3 are some further The Franciscan BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE, which was erected horne museum 4 3 places of interest you bardini museum 5 9 4 may wish to explore. between the end of the 13th and during the 14th century, is fort belvedere 6 5 well worth a visit. The façade is 19th century, but the interior, s. miniato al monte 6 8 7 which is Gothic, is memorable for the frescoes of Giotto and 8 7 for the tombs of some of Italy’s most illustrious figures, in- s. maria del carmine 9 cluding , , Michelangelo and 14 Gioacchino Rossini. Besides the church, you can also visit At the rear of Piazza del Duomo is the MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL the Museo dell’Opera with Brunelleschi’s elegant Pazzi BRIEF ITINERARIES Chapel. o.i DUOMO, which houses all the works from the Cathedral, such rism t If you walk along Via de’ Benci towards the u as parts of the original façade or sculptures produced for it, et including a wooden Mary Magdalene by Donatello and a Pietà Arno, you will come, on your left, to a z n by Michelangelo. Renaissance palazzo occupied by the e r Walking along Via del Proconsolo you come to Palazzo Non- HORNE MUSEUM. This features i f finito, an incomplete (hence the name) work by Buontalenti. paintings, furniture and other . Inside is the interesting ANTHROPOLOGY SECTION OF THE MUSE- items that recreate the appear- w

UM OF NATURAL HISTORY. A little further on is the 13th-centu- ance of a noble 15th-century w

ry Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a severe-looking building home. On the other side of the w where executions were once held. Arno (cross over on the Ponte It is now occupied by the BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM, which alle Grazie) stands the BARDINI MUSEUM, the former home of holds some of the most important works an antiquarian who built up a large collection of art works. of Italian Renaissance sculpture (Do- Walking up the steep but atmospheric Costa Scarpuccia and natello, Ghiberti, Michelangelo, Costa San Giorgio you will come to one of Florence’s most Cellini, Giambologna). spectacular sites: FORT BELVEDERE. Designed by Buontalenti Close by is Piazza San Firenze, with in the last decade of the 16th century, it is a fortified villa in a longer stays in florence

raised position that offers one of the best views of the city. w.firen The fort houses the Della Ragione Collection, featuring ww zet paintings by some of the great masters of the 20th century. ur A beautiful stroll in the shade of the trees lining the Viale is dei Colli will bring you to the Romanesque BASILICA OF SAN m MINIATO AL MONTE. The green and white marble façade is typ- o . ically Florentine, and the geometric patterns can also be i t found in the well-lit interior. The piazza in front of the church offers fine views, as does the nearby Piazzale Michelangelo, which is a great favourite with tourists. 16 The piazzale stands above the historic neighbourhood of the 17 Oltrarno. Walking back down towards the river, the tour of this BRIEF BRIEF ITINERARIES part of the city can be rounded off by visiting the complex of ITINERARIES SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE. In the there are fine frescoes by Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi.

The first coat of arms of Florence was a white lily (Florentine iris) against a red ground. In 1251, following the conflict between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, the colours were inverted so the lily was red and the background white. thematic thematic itineraries itineraries in florence in florence

Want to follow a particular thread or theme GREAT GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE as you tour the city? In Florence the Gothic period coincided with the peak of the Here are a few suggested ideas. city’s wealth and economic prosperity. In architectural and urban development terms, this was reflected in the building of the last circle of city walls and of imposing basilicas, ex- pressions of the establishment and growing influence of the THE CITY IN THE MIDDLE AGES mendicant orders in the social fabric of the city. This itinerary takes in the most significant buildings of the . BASILICA OF medieval period, when the city skyline was dominated by . BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE towers and the first important public buildings and the . CHURCH OF 18 large basilicas were built. . CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE 19 VISITING THE CITY . PALAZZO VECCHIO . PALAZZO DEL BARGELLO (HOME TO THE BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM) . (PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA) . PONTE VECCHIO . TOWER HOUSES - PIAZZA SANTA ELISABETTA (HOTEL BRUNELLESCHI), PIAZZA DAVANZATI, PIAZZA SALVEMINI, BORGO SAN JACOPO . BAPTISTERY OF SAN GIOVANNI . BASILICA OF SAN MINIATO THE CITY IN THE RENAISSANCE: THE GRAND PALAZZOS . CHURCH OF THE SANTI APOSTOLI (PIAZZA DEL LIMBO) There are various Renaissance palazzos in the historic city centre. Although many of them are not open to the public, they are still interesting from the outside. They are named after those who commissioned them, often from very fa- mous architects, to serve as family residences.

. (VIA PORTA ROSSA) . PALAZZO RUCELLAI (VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA) . PALAZZO STROZZI . PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI . PALAZZO ANTINORI (PIAZZA ANTINORI) . PALAZZO COCCHI SERRISTORI (PIAZZA SANTA CROCE) . PALAZZO BARTOLINI SALIMBENI (PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA) thematic thematic itineraries itineraries in florence in florence

THE CITY IN THE 17TH CENTURY CONTEMPORARY ART Although Florence is not particularly associated with the In Florence there are a number of fine buildings associated Baroque, there are a number of fine examples of this im- with the Italian rationalist movement that was active be- portant period, and it is worth exploring the city with this in tween the wars, and other works, mainly public, designed mind, if you have the time or if you are making a return visit. by important post-war architects.

. CHURCH OF SAN GAETANO (PIAZZA ANTINORI) . COMPLEX OF SAN FIRENZE (PIAZZA SAN FIRENZE) . PALAZZO CORSINI (LUNGARNO CORSINI) . PALAZZO DELL’ANTELLA (PIAZZA SANTA CROCE) . SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA

VISITING . CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA (AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE) THE CITY . TRAIN STATION OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA . ARTEMIO FRANCHI FOOTBALL STADIUM . MARINO MARINI MUSEUM . AERONAUTICAL SCHOOL (PARK OF THE CASCINE)

LIBERTY AND ECLECTICISM IN THE CITY A number of significant examples of eclectic and Liberty- style architecture were built in Florence between the end of www.firenzeturismo.it the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century.

. HOTEL EXCELSIOR (PIAZZA OGNISSANTI 3) . CINEMA ODEON (VIA SASSETTI 1) . PORTICOES OF VIA PELLICCERIA . VILLINO UZIELLI (PIAZZA D’AZEGLIO 38) . VILLINO BROGGI CARACENI (VIA SCIPIONE AMMIRATO 98) . VILLINO RAVAZZINI (VIA SCIPIONE AMMIRATO 101) . CASA GALLERIA (BORGOGNISSANTI) . VILLA STIBBERT . VILLINI LAMPREDI (VIA VILLANI 9, 13) www.firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it parks parks and gardens and gardens in florence in florence

6 8 boboli gardens 1 4 Exploring Florence Opened to the public in 1791, and en- fort belvedere 2 7 through its parks and larged and modified various times 3 5 gardens is an unusual but since then, it is an ideal place to go botanical garden 4 worthwhile experience. park of the cascine 5 This is because the running, skating, cycling or simply for 6 city’s historic gardens a walk. park of villa il ventaglio 7 are closely associated Remaining in the city, but moving out from villa gamberaia 8 with palazzos and 3 the city centre, a number of other gardens and parks can be 2 architectural styles, and recommended. For example, there is the English-style park of 1 with the noble families that created them. the STIBBERT MUSEUM, its romantic taste reflected in a small lake with a small neo-Egyptian temple on its banks, and the 22 ruins of a Gothic Venetian courtyard in 23 In the centre of Florence, the BOBOLI GARDENS, a magnificent- white marble. VISITING VISITING THE CITY ly grandiose example of an Italian-style garden with ancient The PARK OF VILLA IL VENTAGLIO, laid THE CITY statues and fountains, offers some extraordinary views of the out in the mid 19th century on the city. At the top end of the garden, a gate gives access to the lower slopes of the hill leading up to bastions of FORT BELVEDERE, and a short Fiesole, and which has a lake crossed walk will bring you to the recently re- by a small bridge, also reflects the style of opened BARDINI GARDENS, which over- parks in that period. look the Arno. Finally, if you head in the direction of Settignano, situated on The BOTANICAL GARDEN or Giardino dei a hill a short distance from Fiesole, you come to VILLA GAM- Semplici is a university museum, but BERAIA. Its belvedere, marked by cypress has ancient origins. It is a haven for a host trees shaped into arches, produces a of plant varieties (kept in the open-air and under glass), with stage effect akin to an 18th-century ancient trees such as Taxus baccata and a cork oak. In spring ‘green theatre’, offering splendidly at- the azalea blossom offers a riot of colour. mospheric views of the Florentine Near to the city centre is the large PARK OF THE CASCINE. countryside. ideas for visiting ideas for visiting the surrounding the surrounding area area

FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA FIESOLE ARCHA EOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA CERTOSA MEDICI VILLAS FIESOLE ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA

Why not venture out from the city centre? South of the city centre, not far from Galluzzo, stands the You do not need to go far to discover interesting new places CERTOSA. Of 14th-century origin, it has an austere fortress- and unforgettable views. like appearance and is still occupied by Cistercian monks. Visitors can see the monumental quarters of the convent and 24 the Pinacoteca, which houses important art works produced 25 FIESOLE is very close to the city but has a distinct character of over the centuries. VISITING VISITING THE CITY its own. It is situated in a splendidly panoramic position on Other unmissable attractions in the local THE CITY the hill overlooking Florence. area include the MEDICI VILLAS between Unlike Florence, Fiesole is of Etruscan origin, and both Etr- Florence and Sesto Fiorentino: VILLA LA uscan and Roman remains can be found in the extensive AR- PETRAIA and VILLA DI CASTELLO. The for- CHAEOLOGICAL AREA. Also of great historical value are the Ro- mer is dominated by a large tower and manesque cathedral of San Romolo, with its characteristic surrounded by an Italian-style terrace tower-shaped campanile, Palazzo Vescovile, founded in the garden. To the rear of the villa, there is a 11th and rebuilt in the 17th century, and the ancient church large romantic park added in the 19th century. After the of Santa Maria Primerana, which was built over an earlier Etr- Medici, the villa was also used as a residence by the House uscan construction. One good idea for a stroll is to head in of Savoy in the period when Florence was the capital of uni- the direction of the ancient acropolis, where you will find the fied Italy. A pleasant walk leads to Villa di Castello, which has basilica of Sant’Alessandro (exhibitions are held here), and a beautiful Italian garden with citrus fruits and numerous rare the church, convent and Missionary Museum of San plant varieties. The garden is also worth seeing for the Grot- Francesco. The beautiful surrounding scenery makes Fiesole ta degli Animali, something of a marvel in the Medici period a popular area for walking, with paths heading towards with its ingenious water effects. The imposing villa is home Monte Ceceri and the Caldine. to the prestigious Accademia della Crusca. visiting visiting the city the city independently independently

If you want to visit Florence and explore its rich artistic and museum There are more than ninety museums in Florence. The following is a selection: heritage on your own, we would advise you to drop in at an information office to pick up an updated list detailing opening times and ticket prices. STATE-RUN MUSEUMS COUNCIL-RUN MUSEUMS . Museum . Palazzo Vecchio Alternatively, you can visit the APT’s website at: www.firenzeturismo.it . of the Medici Chapels (Monumental Apartments . Cenacles and Children’s Museum) Opening times change quite frequently, (frescoed refectories) . Brancacci Chapel also in relation to the time of year, and ticket prices may of Ognissanti, . Fondazione Romano in vary if there is an exhibition on at the museum. Santa Apollonia, the Cenacle of Santo Spirito At the offices of the Florence Tourism Board you can , Fuligno . Bardini Museum also purchase a copy of the Guide to museums in the city . Chiostro dello Scalzo . Museum of Santa Maria Novella and province, a useful aid in planning what to see. . Museums of Palazzo Pitti . Museo di Firenze com’era (Palatine Gallery; . Alberto Della Ragione As this guide goes to press, Florence still does not have a tourist card Gallery of Modern Art; Collection 26 granting admission to a range of museums. However, it is possible Silver Museum; 27 Porcelain Museum; to purchase inclusive tickets covering certain museums, and to book VISITING Costume Gallery; THE CITY admission to the more popular museums in advance. Boboli Gardens) This will enable you to avoid queues, which, especially in spring and . Uffizi Gallery summer, is something to be borne in mind. . Accademia Gallery . Archaeology Museum Admission to state-run museums can be booked through Firenze Musei, . Bargello National Museum tel. 055 294883 (for school parties: tel. 055 290112) . Davanzati Museum MUSEUMS www.firenzemusei.it . . Museum of the Opificio RUN BY OTHER BODIES There is a booking fee of € 3 or € 4, depending on the museum, for delle Pietre Dure . Palazzo Medici Riccardi each ticket, irrespective of the type (full, concession, free). . Museum of San Marco . Horne Museum . Museo dell’Opera del Duomo . Admission to state-run museums is free for everyone under 18 and . Casa di Dante over 65. There are reductions on admission tickets to museums . Museo dell’Opera run by Florence City Council for children aged 3 to 17, for young people di Santa Croce aged 18 to 25, and for anyone over 65 years of age. . Galleria dello Spedale degli Innocenti Other museums in the city are managed by public and private bodies or . University Museum associations. Some of the city’s historic gardens, for instance the Boboli of Natural History and the Bardini Gardens, also charge an admission fee. . Galileo Museum . Marino Marini Museum guided guided tours tours of the city of the city

One way of getting to know Florence better is to go on . Florapromotuscany tel. 055 210301, www.florapromotuscany.com a guided tour of the city and its major attractions. Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Giubbe Rosse There are tours practically every day, at different times and . Florence Town tel. 055 0123994-800736755, www.florencetown.com in various languages. It is advisable to turn up 10-15 minutes Departure point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Gilli (on Tuesday, from Caffè Paskowsky) before the tour is due to start. . Solo Italia Tours tel. 055 213355 www.mercurio-italy.org, Depar- ture point: Ponte Vecchio (arches) BY BUS . The Original & Best Walking Tours of Florence, tel. 055 2645033, www.artviva.italy.com, Departure point: agency office in Via Sassetti 1 morning tour (generally includes Piazzale Michelangelo, Accademia . TuscanyAll tel. 055 713655, www.myflorencetours.com, Departure Gallery or Bargello National Museum or Medici Chapels, Cathedral) point: Piazza della Repubblica, c/o Caffè Giubbe Rosse afternoon tour (generally includes Piazza Santa Croce, , Uffizi Gallery or Palazzo Vecchio, Fiesole) From 15 March to 15 November the agency Florapromotuscany also . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200, www.caftours.com, Departure point: offers guided walking tours with guaranteed departures (booking not 28 Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) necessary). Tours are in English, French or German. 29 panoramic tour (morning and afternoon, with audio guide) VISITING VISITING THE CITY . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200, www.caftours.com, Departure point: THE CITY Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) BY TAXI AND MINIVAN (morning and afternoon) tourist bus (Line A: Piazza Stazione; Line B: Porta San Frediano) city sightseeing red two-storey bus which goes all round the city; . Accord tel. 055 282825, www.accordsolutions.it, Departure point: you can get on and off at the various stops; tel. 055 290451 Piazza della Repubblica (column). www.firenze.city-sightseeing.it Departure from hotel can be arranged by prior request. florence open tour a yellow two-storey bus; you can hop on and off at the 19 stops; tel. 348 8814984 www.opentour.it/florence BY BIKE (morning and afternoon)

ON FOOT . Florapromotuscany tel. 055 210301, www.florapromotuscany.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione The following agencies run guided walking tours in the centre of Flo- . FlorenceTown tel. 055 0123994, www.florencetown.com, Depar- rence. The programme may include a visit to a museum or a major ture point: Via de’ Lamberti 1 (corner with Via Calzaiuoli) church, or may be devoted exclusively to one or more museums. There are tours in various foreign languages, besides Italian. Book- ing obligatory. BY SEGWAY (morning and afternoon) . Caf Tours tel. 055 283200 www.caftours.com, Departure point: Piazza Stazione (on the corner with Piazza dell’Unità) . Segway Renter Toscana tel. 055 2398855, www.segwayfirenze.com information offices information protecting the rights protecting the rights offices of tourists of tourists

The Florence Tourism Board (APT) and Florence In a city visited by millions of tourists each year, City Council’s Tourism Department run five tourist information there is unfortunately always a chance of encountering a poor offices in the city. In these offices you will find informative or unprofessional level of service. materials in various languages and professional, well-informed If the service is not up to scratch, the price is unclear, your staff who can give you accurate and helpful information booking has not been respected or you find yourself about the attractions of the city and surrounding area, in some other unpleasant situation of this kind, you can make services, accommodation, transport and all the main cultural, use of a number of mechanisms designed to protect your rights sports and traditional events. as a guest of the city.

30 31 CITY FLORENCE INFORMATION OFFICES CITY SERVICES TOURISM BOARD SERVICES Via Cavour 1r Via Manzoni 16 tel. 055 290832-3 OFFICE FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE RIGHTS OF TOURISTS 50121 Florence fax 055 2760383 tel. 055 23320 [email protected] At the Information Office of the Florence Tourism Board in Via Cavour fax 055 2346286 1r, there is a special counter devoted to safeguarding the rights of www.firenzeturismo.it Via Manzoni 16 tourists. Expert, multilingual staff help tourists to fill out complaint [email protected] tel. 055 23320 fax 055 2346285 forms which are then sent on to the pertinent authorities. [email protected] OFFICE OF CONCILIATION “A. Vespucci” Airport tel. and fax 055 315874 [email protected] The Florence Chamber of Commerce (piazza dei Giudici 3) has set up a reconciliation service to settle financial controversies that may arise between businesses and tourist consumers, the aim being to avoid FLORENCE CITY COUNCIL lengthy and costly legal proceedings. For visitors who cannot follow the reconciliation procedure in person, the office appoints a repre- Borgo S.Croce 29r tel. 055 2340444 sentative chosen from a list drawn up by consumer protection bodies. fax 055 2264524 The procedure can also be activated on the Chamber of Commerce’s i [email protected] website at: www.fi.camcom.it Piazza Stazione 4 tel. 055 212245 fax 055 2381226 [email protected] getting getting around around in the city in the city

With your own car City buses If you arrive in Florence by car, it is worth parking it and using public and Florence and some of the adjoining towns are served by ATAF city buses. tourist transport to get around. Particular attention should also be given to signs These buses are orange, and enable you get around anywhere. Timetables are posted at bus indicating that you are entering the Restricted Traffic Zone (‘Zona a Traffico stops or at www.ataf.net Limitato’, ZTL), which covers the area of the historic city centre. Ordinary bus tickets should be purchased before getting onto the bus, from a newsagent, Access is controlled by video cameras, and you will need prior authorization tobacconist or bar, or from the ticket office situated under the shelter (arrivals side) outside Santa to enter if you want to avoid a hefty fine. If you are looking for accommodation, Maria Novella railway station. Tickets cost € 1.20 and are valid for 70 minutes (you can change the hotel you decide to stay in or the garage where you intend to park bus without buying another ticket) from when they have been validated on board the bus (punch can enable you, by means of a specific procedure, to enter the ZTL temporarily. the ticket in the machine situated just inside the entrance to the bus). A 24-hour ticket costs € 5. Further information about the Restricted Traffic Zone is available at A multiple 4-journey ticket costs € 4.50 and can be used by 4 different people, for example www.muoversiafirenze.it or www.serviziallastrada.it a family. Remember that children under a metre tall travel free. Another practical option is the Carta Agile, an electronic ATAF card that can be used for 10 or 21 journeys. Info: 800 424500 (from a land line) or 199 104245 (from a cell phone). With a hire car If you decide to hire a car in Florence, you will find rental companies both in the terminal building of the A. Vespucci Airport and in the city centre. As this guide goes to press, work is being completed on Line 1 of the new 32 The majority of car hire companies are in streets close to the central railway tram service. This will run between Santa Maria Novella railway station and the 33 south-west outskirts of Florence as far as Scandicci. GETTING station (SMN). Remember that this area is inside the Restricted Traffic Zone and GETTING AROUND IN that the above comments apply. AROUND IN THE CITY Other means of transport THE CITY

Auto Europa Easy Car Italy by Car Maxirent Florence, being relatively RICKSHAW OPEN CARRIAGE TAXI Borgo Ognissanti 100 r via della Scala 53 r Thrifty dollar Borgo Ognissanti 133 r small, lends itself Bicycle rickshaws carries It is hard to resist the Taxis are white. Call centre 800 334440 tel. 055 284366 Borgo Ognissanti 134 r tel. 055 2654207 two adults or an adult romantic charm of a ride They can be booked AVIS Europcar Call centre 800 846083 Sixt to the use of a bicycle, and two children, on an open carriage. by phone or picked Borgo Ognissanti 128 r Borgo Ognissanti 53 r Maggiore Borgo Ognissanti 153 r thanks also to a large and are an usual way to You can pick one up up by going to Call centre 199 100133 Call centre 199 307030 via Maso Finiguerra 13 r tel. 055 2399696 number of cycle tracks. discover the city. in Piazza Duomo, a taxi rank. There are City Car Rent Hertz Italiana Call centre 199 151120 Travelcar Tre Rote Piazza San Giovanni or ranks in front of the BICYCLE via Alamanni 3a c/o via Maso Finiguerra 33 Borgo Ognissanti 108 r tel. 338 6389245 Piazza della Signoria. main railway stations 1000 e 1 bici Garage La Stazione Call centre 199 112211 Call center 199 180 180 www.pedicabfirenze.it and in many (social cooperative) tel. 055 2399231 BOATS city centre piazzas. has cycle points at the SEGWAY From June to September Radiotaxi SOCOTA railway stations of Santa The Segway is a silent it is also possible to take tel. 055 4242 Maria Novella and How do I park? and convenient a trip along the River Radiotaxi COTAFI Campo Marte, Car parking spaces in Florence are divided into areas reserved for residents way of getting around Arno on one of the typi- tel. 055 4390 Piazza Santa Croce, Info 055 2398855 cal local boats, called If you arrive in (white markings on the ground) and pay-and-display areas (sky blue markings). Piazza Annigoni (market www.segway.it barchetti. The embarka- Florence by plane, the Near the pay-and-display areas there are ticket machines, which accept coins. of Sant’Ambrogio). tion point is near Piazza taxi ride into the city Alinari There are also many covered and attended car parks in the city centre. These are Mentana, and the boats centre takes about via San Zanobi 38R all run by Firenze Parcheggi. go as far as Lungarno 15 minutes. The taxi tel. 055 280500 Corsini. Booking obliga- cooperatives have www.alinarirental.com tory (minimum 6 peo- established a fixed Santa Maria Novella Beccaria Fortezza Fiera Porta al Prato Florence by bike ple). Call the Associ- rate (€ 20) to central railway station piazza C. Beccaria, piazzale Caduti Via Gabbuggiani, via San Zanobi 120 R azione I Renaioli, and from the airport (SMN), open round the clock nei Lager, open round the clock tel. 055 488992 tel. 347 7982356. and city centre hotels. open round the clock Alberti open round the clock Sito www.florencebybike.it Sant’Ambrogio piazza Alberti, Oltrarno www.firenzeparcheggi.it Rentway piazza Annigoni, open round the clock piazza della Calza, piazza San Benedetto1R open round the clock Parterre open round the clock tel. 333 9619820 via Madonna della Tosse 9, www.rentway.it open round the clock getting getting around in around in the surrounding the surrounding area area

By bus The area surrounding Florence is served by non-city buses, which may be blue or green. The bus stations are all in the immediate vicinity of the e central railway station (SMN). The following companies operate services: renz tur .fi ism SITA CAP COPIT LAZZI via Santa Caterina da largo Fratelli Alinari 9 largo Fratelli Alinari 9 piazza Stazione 1 w o Siena 15 www.capautolinee.it www.copitspa.it www.lazzi.it . www.sitabus.it w i t w Main destinations served by bus in the province of Florence

SITA: Barberino di Mugello - Barberino Val d’Elsa - Bivigliano (comune di Vaglia) - Calenzano - Castagno d’Andrea (comune di San Godenzo) - Castelfiorentino - Cerbaia (comune di San Casciano Val di Pesa) - Certaldo - Compiobbi (comune di Fiesole) - Consuma (comune di Pelago) - Dicomano - Falciani (comune di Impruneta) - Firen- 34 zuola - Gambassi Terme - Giogoli (comune di Scandicci) - Grassina (comune di Bag- 35 no a Ripoli) - Greve in Chianti - Incisa in Valdarno - Ginestra Fiorentina (comune di Las- GETTING tra a Signa) - Le Sieci (comune di ) - Londa - Marcialla (comune di Bar- GETTING AROUND berino Val d’Elsa) - Marradi - Montaione - Montesenario (comune di Vaglia) - Montes- AROUND IN THE pertoli - Panzano (comune di Greve in Chianti) - Pelago - Pontassieve - Pratolino (co- IN THE SURROUNDING mune di Vaglia) - Reggello - Rufina - Santa Brigida (comune di Pontassieve) - San Cas- SURROUNDING AREA ciano in Val di Pesa - San Godenzo - San Piero a Sieve - Scarperia - Strada in Chianti AREA (comune di Greve in Chianti) Tavarnelle in Val di Pesa - Vaglia - Vallombrosa (comune di Reggello) - Vicchio di Mugello. CAP: Borgo San Lorenzo - Campi Bisenzio - Capalle (comune di Campi Bisenzio) - Im- pruneta - Palazzuolo sul Senio - Ronta (comune di Borgo San Lorenzo) - San Piero a Sieve - Tavarnuzze (comune di Impruneta) - Vaglia. COPIT: Cerreto Guidi - Vinci (from Empoli station) LAZZI: Campi Bisenzio - Empoli - Figline Valdarno - Fucecchio - Incisa in Valdarno - Lastra a Signa - Montelupo Fiorentino - Pontassieve - Roveta (Comune di Scandicci) - Signa.

By train

Florence’s central train station is Other stations include The is a Santa Maria Novella Campo di Marte raised passageway built by (in the heart of the city centre). (trains from Arezzo/, Mugello, Val di Sieve) Rifredi Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I. (trains from Pisa, Bologna) It links Palazzo Vecchio with what was the new Airport residence of Palazzo Pitti. The Corridor runs along by Florence’s airport is via del Termine 11 The airport is about 5 National and Amerigo Vespucci Airport www.aeroporto.firenze.it km from the city centre. international flights. the Arno and then crosses it above Ponte Vecchio. health health information information

If you have health problems during your stay in Florence, you The on-duty doctor service is operative every day during the nighttime hours can use the accident/emergency and medical assistance services. (8pm–8am); on Saturdays and Sundays (24 hours a day); and, when there is a public For specialist tests you will be required to pay a ‘ticket’, that is a holiday during the week, from 10am on the day before the holiday to 8am on contribution to the cost of the test. the first normal post-holiday working day, including 24 hour coverage on the public holiday(s). The service is free and is not subject to the payment of a ‘ticket’. HEALTH EMERGENCIES: call 118 (round the clock, free of charge) GUARDIA MEDICA Quartiere 1 Quartiere 5 (ON-DUTY DOCTOR) (city centre) tel. 055 42691 tel. 055 2339456 (Rifredi, Careggi, HOSPITALS WITH AN EMERGENCY EYE UNIT 055 215616 Vittoria, Le Panche, ACCIDENT AND EMERGENCY (Oltrarno) Tre Pietre, Romito) DEPARTMENT Palagi (ex IOT) tel. 055 419779 Viale Michelangiolo 41, Florence Quartiere 2 (Ponte di Mezzo, Santa Maria Nuova tel. 055 679293 Firenze Nova, (city centre), Surgery for urgent needs Olmatello, 36 Piazza S. Maria Nuova 1, Tel. 055 65771 Quartiere 3 Viale Guidoni) 37 Florence - tel. 055 27581 open Monday–Friday, 8am–8pm tel. 055 2320082 tel. 055 315225 HEALTH (last admission 7.45pm) (Galluzzo) (Novoli, Peretola, HEALTH INFORMATION Careggi 055 6536899 Brozzi, Osmannoro) INFORMATION Via delle Oblate 1, Florence Careggi (see above) tel. 055 794111 tel. 055 7947260 Quartiere 4 Careggi Accident tel. 055 700536 and Emergency Department tel. 055 7949644 TRAUMA ACCIDENT AND EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT 24-HOUR Farmacia Comunale Nuovo Ospedale PHARMACIES n° 13 San Giovanni di Dio CTO inside Florence SMN Via di Torregalli 3, Florence Largo Palagi 1, Florence railway station tel. 055 71921 tel. 055 7948077 tel 055 289435 055 216761 Santa Maria Annunziata Via dell’Antella 58 EMERGENCY DENTAL CARE Molteni Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) via Calzaiuoli 7r tel. 055 24961 Careggi tel. 055 289490 Via delle Oblate 1 Meyer tel. 055 7947401 All’Insegna del Moro (paediatric hospital) Monday–Saturday, piazza S. Giovanni 20r Viale Pieraccini 24, Florence 8.30am–12.30 noon tel. 055 211343 tel. 055 56621 Nuovo Ospedale San Giovanni di Dio (see above) tel. 055 7192501 Monday–Saturday, 8–9am and 12 noon–1pm (only 6 people per day) post offices post offices banks banks bureau banks bureau de change de change

At post offices it is possible to buy stamps, send letters, packages Banca Antonveneta Monte dei Paschi Maccorp via Ricasoli 8 di Siena - via Calzaiuoli 42r** and faxes, and wire money. Foreign currency can also be exchanged. tel. 055 27811 - piazza San Lorenzo 1 tel. 055 215805 tel. 055 268429 - via Alamanni 7r Post offices open: Banca di Roma - piazza Stazione 1 tel. 055 218471 Monday–Friday, 8.15am–7pm; Saturday 8.15am–12.30 noon via Vecchietti 5 tel. 055 2399074 - via Por S.Maria 3r** Firenze V.R. (city centre) via Pellicceria 3, tel. 055 2736481 tel. 055 277141 - via dei Pecori 6 tel. 055 287309 Firenze 7 - via Pietrapiana 53, tel. 055 22674231 tel. 055 273411 - piazza del Mercato Firenze 10 - via Magenta 13r, tel. 055 261981 Banca Intesa Nuovo 2/r*** - via Vecchietti 5 San Paolo tel. 055 284598 Firenze 39 - via Alamanni 18r, tel. 055 219485 tel. 055 272091 - via Vecchietti 5r - piazza - via Por Santa tel. 055 272091 S. Giovanni 7r*** Post office open: Maria 19r tel. 055 2302354 Tuesday–Sunday, 10.30am–6.30pm tel. 055 295126 Unicredit - Inside SMN Uffizi Gallery tel. 055 284709 - via Pescioni 1 - via Vecchietti 11 Railway Station tel. 055 27851 tel. 055 27941 tel. 055 9061052 Post offices open: - via Brunelleschi 11 Monday–Friday, 8.15am–1.30pm; Saturday 8.15am–12.30 noon Banca Nazionale tel. 055 23921 ** tax free service 38 with Global Refund 39 Firenze 4 - via Barbadori 37r, tel. 055 288175 del Lavoro POST - via Cerretani 6 Arcudi *** tax free service BANKS Firenze 18 - via Cavour 71a, tel. 055 463501 with Première OFFICES tel. 055 23301 via Ricasoli 81r Firenze 20 - piazza Brunelleschi 20, tel. 055 212396 BUREAU DE BANKS - via Cavour 59 tel. 055 210275 CHANGE Firenze 21 - piazza Ludovico Antonio Muratori (Statuto train station), tel. 055 495340 Morandini tel. 055 480314 Change Exchange Alessio Banca Sella Carlo Alunno - via Calzaiuoli 84r via Cavour 74r via della Ninna 9r tel. 055 212482 tel. 055 291074 tel. 055 217611 - via Panzani 59r tel. 055 293022 Banca Toscana Change - piazza Signoria 22r Passeri Silvia Interchange tel. 055 216906 Omega Viaggi lungarno Acciaiuoli 6r The banks generally close between 1.15pm and 2.30pm, and - via Cavour 82a piazza Stazione 14 tel. 055 289781 tel. 055 5001865 Interno 37 - Galleria www.interchange.eu reopen in the afternoon for about an hour. - piazza Stazione 9r Commerciale S.M.N. The majority of exchange agencies remain open during the lunch tel. 055 211991 (shopping gallery) Touriservice - via Por Santa Maria 2r tel. 055 291312 via Santa Caterina hour and at weekends. However, it is worth checking opening tel. 055 210458 da Siena 9r times at tourist information offices or at: tel. 055 213973 Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze www.firenzeturismo.it - via Bufalini 6 tel. 055 26121 - via Tornabuoni 23r tel. 055 214034 internet internet public point public point lavatories lavatories

The following is a list of internet points in Florence city centre. The public lavatories managed by Florence City Council are For opening hours and details about the services usually open until sundown (only the ones in the markets close at 2pm). offered (not all of them have a wi-fi connection), it is worth It generally costs € 0.60 to use the lavatories. checking at a tourist information office or on the site of www.firenzeturismo.it Santa Maria Novella Station The establishments (underground arcade and Platform 2) (bars, cafes, wine bars, pubs) disabled access that display this sign IL CAIRO PHONE CENTER INTERNET TRAIN via della Stufa 25 have been selected via de’ Macci 90r - Guelfa disabled access by Florence City Council tel. 055 2638336 via Guelfa 54/56 r via Filippina and provide bathroom facilities tel. 055 2645146 corner with via Borgognona for customers. CARUSO JAZZ CAFE’ - Oriuolo disabled access - via Lambertesca 14/16r via dell’Oriuolo 40r baby changing facilities tel. 055 281940 tel. 055 2638968 borgo Santa Croce 29r www.carusojazzcafe.com - Pontevecchio disabled access - baby changing facilities borgo San Jacopo 30r piazza Ghiberti 40 CYBER LINK tel. 055 2657935 (inside the Sant’Ambrogio Market) 41 via del Giglio 29r - Santacroce disabled access - baby changing facilities INTERNET tel. 055 5370531 via de' Benci 36r via dell’Ariento 14 PUBLIC (inside and outside the LAVATORIES POINT www.cyberlinkplus.com tel. 055 2638555 Central Market) - disabled access - Portarossa piazzale Michelangelo CLICKING via Porta Rossa 38r (San Salvatore al Monte side) via Giusti 3/5 r tel. 055 2741037 disabled access - tel. 055 244108 - Station baby changing facilities S.M.N. train station via dello Sprone EASY INTERNET Galleria Commerciale disabled access - baby changing facilities inside the Libreria Martelli (shopping gallery) 38 r via Martelli 22 (secondary tel. 055 2399720 (giardino della vasca) disabled access zetu ismo entrance in Via Ricasoli) www.internettrain.it baby changing facilities en .it tel. 055 280119 lungarno Pecori Giraldi ir www.easyinternetcafe.it LA CH@T (tourist bus terminal, multiethnic area) .f via Ghibellina 98r via Sant’Agostino 8 w INTERNET PITTI tel. 055 2466472 showers also available piazza de’ Pitti 8r www.lachat.it piazzale Kennedy w tel. 055 2728836 w VENUS POINT CENTER disabled access - baby changing facilities S.M.N. train station piazza Madonna della Neve Galleria Commerciale piazza de' Ciompi (shopping gallery) 18 (inside the garden) - free tel. 055 2776250 Loggia del Grano (via de’ Castellani) WEBPUCCINO Various services including piazza Madonna Aldobrandini baby-changing facilities, are also corner via de’ Conti 22r available at the Arts and Culture tel. 055 2776469 Centre of the Opera di Santa Maria www.webpuccino.it del Fiore, Piazza San Giovanni 7. major major events events in florence in florence

At the city’s tourist information office you can find full details THE RIFICOLONA about all the day’s and month’s events. The following is a list of 7 September (eve of the Nativity of the Virgin) just some of the main ones: Piazza SS. Annunziata On 8 September a fair used to be held in Piazza della Santissima An- nunziata to mark the Feast of the Virgin. It attracted country folk, es- pecially women, known as fierucolone, who came bearing lanterns – Easter Sunday morning - Piazza del Duomo after all, there was no street lighting in those days. Inspired by these The ‘Explosion of the Cart’ takes place in Piazza del Duomo on East- lanterns, the Florentines began to create the early rificolone, lamps er Sunday morning. Known as the Brindellone, the cart is laden with made from coloured paper lit by a candle. Nowadays, the Rificolona a Catherine wheel of fireworks and crackers and hauled half way is an event for children, who proudly carry their lanterns, hanging off across the city by a pair of white oxen. It is then set off by the ‘flight’ a short pole, through the city centre piazzas. 42 of a dove, a fuse which shoots out from inside the Cathedral and runs 43 CITY LIFE along a wire to the cart. PITTI IMMAGINE CITY LIFE January, June-July - Fortezza da Basso CALCIO STORICO The fashion parades organized by Pitti Immagine, which are reserved Three matches. Final on 24 June - Piazza Santa Croce for trade operators, are amongst the most important such events in White, Sky Blue, Green, Red – these are the colours of the teams that the world for menswear, children’s fashions (0–14 years) and yarns. take part in , one for each of the city’s four historic Pitti Immagine is held twice a year, in winter and summer. quarters. The most celebrated of all games was played on 1530 be- Info: 055 36931 www.pittimmagine.com tween the Whites and the Greens, while the city was under siege from Imperial troops. Nowadays the matches are preceded by a big MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO procession during which over 500 participants dressed up in 16th- May-June - Teatro Comunale century costume parade through the city streets. The Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is one of Florence’s most traditional Info: 055 2616052 and successful musical events. First held in 1933, famous conduc- tors, directors and dance companies have taken part in the event FEAST OF SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST over the years. The programme attracts audiences from around the 24 June world, and involves the Orchestra and Choir of the Maggio, and a bal- Florence has always paid solemn religious and civic tribute to Saint let company called MaggioDanza. John the Baptist, the city’s patron saint. And still today, on the morn- Info: 055 2779350 www.maggiofiorentino.com ing of 24 June, a short procession leaves Palazzo Vecchio carrying candles to offer to the saint. But the event that attracts Florentines the most is the spectacular firework display held in the evening. Big crowds gather along the Lungarni, enthusiastic but demanding – the fireworks, in fact, must be nothing short of perfect. major major events events in florence in florence

FABBRICA EUROPA FESTIVAL DELLA CREATIVITÀ May - Stazione Leopolda End of October - Fortezza da Basso This European festival is held in the immense space of the Stazione The Festival of Creativity is a major event designed to attract innova- Leopolda, and features concerts, dance, plays, performance, instal- tion, research and development in the public and private sector. lations and various meetings. A different theme is chosen each year. There are seminars and stands but also concerts, music and per- Fabbrica Europa is a big showcase for figures of undisputable talent formances. Four days packed with events and absolutely free of but also for new and innovative work by emerging artists. charge, organized by the Region of Tuscany. Info: www.fabbricaeuropa.net Info: 055 49721 www.festivaldellacreativita.it

MOSTRA INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ARTIGIANATO End of April, beginning of May - Fortezza da Basso Last Sunday of November 44 The International Arts and Crafts Fair dates back to 1936, and is an The Florence Marathon is an annual event, a panoramic 42 km 45 CITY LIFE absolute must for anyone interested in buying curious and top-qual- course starting in Piazzale Michelangelo and ending in Piazza Santa CITY LIFE ity items and goods from every region in the country and from the Croce, for professional and amateur athletes from around the world. four corners of the world. The awards ceremony is held in Piazza Santa Croce. Info: 055 49721 www.mostraartigianato.it Info: 055 572885 www.firenzemarathon.it

ESTATE FIESOLANA Besides these events, numerous art exhibitions are held in June-August - Fiesole, Roman Theatre Florence during the course of the year, both in the The Estate Fiesolana is held in the splendidly atmospheric setting of main museums and in dedicated spaces such as Palazzo Strozzi the open-air Roman Theatre. The dance, music and theatre pro- (Piazza Strozzi), Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Via Cavour), gramme covers various different genres and traditions, featuring top-quality work and performers. Fort Belvedere and Villa Bardini. Info: 055 5978403 www.estatefiesolana.it sm turi o.it BIENNALE INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ANTIQUARIATO ze End of September, beginning of October (odd-numbered years) n e Palazzo Corsini r i The International Antiques Biennale is the oldest antiques fair in Italy f . and one of the most important of its kind in the world. It is attended by many internationally prominent antiquarians, representing all the w

sectors of the trade and offering a broad view of different schools w and styles of every age and provenance. w Info: 055 282635 www.mostraantiquariato.it florence florence for for children children

Every place and museum, even the most seemingly boring ones, Children’s Workshop at the Museo degli Innocenti can offer something to interest children. In the warmer months, Via de’ Fibbiai 2 (Piazza Santissima Annunziata) - Tel. 055 2478386 Florence has plenty of parks and gardens where children www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it can run around, play and generally let off steam (see Parks and Runs more than 70 creative play workshops relating to art, the his- tory of Florence, the ancient hospital and children’s rights. Suitable Gardens in Florence). for children aged 3 to 11. Workshops in English, French, Spanish As for the kind of shopping that children like, the city centre has a host of toy shops, bookshops, and stores managed by important Horne Museum creators of cartoons. Via de’ Benci 6 - Tel. 055 244661- www.museohorne.it In the winter months, various theatres organize their Organizes lively guided tours and workshops for school and family 46 programmes (especially at the weekend) so as to cater for the groups. After learning about the works on display, the children take 47 young – puppet shows, clowning and so on. part in a manual or creative activity. CITY LIFE CITY LIFE Ask at a tourist information office for more details. Marino Marini Museum Piazza San Pancrazio - Tel. 055 219432 - www.museomarinomarini.it In recent years Florence’s museums have become much Activities for mixed groups of adults and children at weekends, in- more child-friendly, and many now run workshops and guided spired by the works in the museum or those on display during tem- tours designed especially with their needs in mind. porary exhibitions. The world of the sciences is a perennial source of curiosity for Children’s Museum Tel. 055 2768224 - 055 2768558 children, and Florence has a fine tradition of collections www.palazzovecchio-museoragazzi.it (dating back to Medici times) and centres of scientific research. Workshops, experiments, simulations, secret paths through the var- ious museums led by youth workers and actors. The Children’s Mu- Museum of the History of Science seum takes in Palazzo Vecchio and the Monumental Quarters; the Piazza dei Giudici 1 - Tel. 055 265311 - www.imss.fi.it Stibbert Museum; the Brancacci Chapel in the church of the Carmine; A large collection of astrolabes, dividers, compasses, armillary the Museo Storico Topografico Firenze com’era; and the Museo spheres and other scientific instruments collected by the Medici. A Leonardiano in Vinci. Most of the activities are available in English, whole section is devoted to the great scientist Galileo Galilei. In 2010 French, Spanish and German. the layout will be revamped and the museum will be renamed as the Galileo Museum. florence for children

The . A Museum for Mathematics A journey back through time is a fascinating prospect Un Museo per la Matematica - Via San Bartolo a Cintoia 19/a for young children. That is why there are at least two places to Tel. 055 7879594 - www.archimede.ms recommend to children in Florence: A visit to this museum provides an opportunity to start having some fun with the most ancient of sciences. Practical exercises, experi- Archaeology Museum ments and workshops designed to demonstrate that mathematics is piazza SS. Annunziata 9 - Tel. 055 23575 - www.firenzemusei.it not difficult and is a part of our everyday lives. The museum covers the distant roots of our civilization, including Etruscan, Greek and Roman finds, with a number of truly breathtak- The ’s Museum of Natural History has six ing pieces like the Chimera of Arezzo and the François Vase. Sur- different sections. The most interesting ones for children are: prisingly, there is also a fabulous Egyptology section (second only to 48 the Egyptian Museum in Turin), with mummies, sarcophagi and oth- 49 - ‘’ Zoology Section er fascinating objects. CITY LIFE Via Romana 17 - Tel. 055 2288251 - www.msn.unifi.it CITY LIFE Paolo Graziosi Museum of Prehistory Spectacular collection of anatomical waxes and some 5,000 animal Convento delle Oblate, via Sant’Egidio 21 - Tel. 055 295159 specimens (only a small part of the entire collection), including birds, www.museofiorentinopreistoria.it mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish and invertebrates. A selection of The museum illustrates the history of our forbears from the Early large vertebrates are on display in the Skeletons Room. Stone Age through to the Metal Ages. Children aged three to ten can - Geology and Palaeontology Section get to grips with prehistory under the guidance of specialist staff. via La Pira 4 - Tel. 055 2757536 - www.msn.unifi.it Palaeontological finds from throughout Tuscany. The highlight of the For sport enthusiasts: museum is the Elephant ‘Peter’, a probisicidean from the Upper Val- darno. Museum of Football viale Aldo Palazzeschi 20 (Coverciano) - Tel. 055 600526 - 800428499 Planetarium www.museodelcalcio.it Via Giusti 29 - Tel. 055 2343723 - www.planetario.fi.it The Planetarium is a space for educational activities, designed to For anyone who wants to play, read or watch a cartoon in a help people learn more about the skies. A large dome reproduces the colourful, relaxing space: movement of the stars and planets, and simulates the sky at any lat- itude of the Earth. The Planetarium organizes sessions for school Biblioteca delle Oblate parties and family groups, led by astronomers from the Arcetri Ob- Convento delle Oblate, via dell’Oriolo 26 - Tel. 055 2616512 servatory. www.bibliotecadelleoblate.it On the second floor of Florence’s newest library is a special children’s area. The books, in Italian and the main foreign languages, can be tak- en directly from the shelves. There are also games for Playstation3 and films on DVD. Ideal for a pleasant, relaxing break. Free admission. food food and drink and drink

If you want to sample the flavours of Florentine ages gravitate towards the ice-cream parlours cuisine, start with a good breakfast in one of the city’s (keep an eye out for the signs produzione propria many bars. Like the majority of Italians, the Florentines or gelateria artigianale, which means they make enjoy having breakfast at a bar, generally opting for a it themselves), which can also be found in the city cappuccino (creamy, not too hot and perhaps with a sprinkling centre; or kiosks selling slices of cool cocomero of cocoa on top) or a coffee – normale, macchiato ( i.e., with a (watermelon). For a more substantial bite, all you need 50 dash of hot or cold milk) or some other variant – and a pastry, to do is look for a baker and buy a slice of schiacciata con 51 CITY LIFE often a warm brioche, either plain or filled with confectioner’s olio, a flat bread that is either plain or filled, or some other bakery CITY LIFE custard, jam or chocolate. For a breakfast of this sort, it is worth product, such as schiacciata dolce con uva (grape bread), pan seeking out a confectioner that bakes their own pastries. di ramerino (rosemary-flavoured bread) or quaresimali (though these can generally be found in the lead up to Easter). For lunch there is an embarrassment of choice: restaurants, On cold winter days, on the other hand, the ideal is a cup of trattorias, pizzerias and so on. But Florentines often do hot chocolate or a sugary doughnut filled with custard or chocolate, not sit down for lunch. In many areas of Florence you can find which are served, piping hot, in the middle of the afternoon. open-air stalls and kiosks selling so-called street food: a hearty sandwich with lampredotto (a kind of tripe), offal or roast pork As the evening draws in, students and workers, the young and not so (porchetta). A quick meal consisting of a sandwich or roll young, often go out for an aperitif, usually a cocktail such as a with cold meats, cheese and dressings of various kinds, flat Negroni (a mix of Campari, vermouth and gin, invented in Florence focaccia bread or a salad can also be found in the many small by Count Camillo Negroni), or just a glass of wine with, delicatessens dotted around the city. And to round it all off, in the worst of cases, peanuts and crisps. In fact, more a coffee (never cappuccino!). Remember though, to check prices and more frequently aperitifs are accompanied by an and service charges – often it costs more to sit down than it extensive buffet that makes a ready substitute for dinner does to eat at the counter. and which is included in the cost of the drink.

The afternoon snack, otherwise known as the merenda, varies according to season. In the summer, locals and tourists of all food food and drink and drink

For Florentines dinner never starts before 8pm, Many restaurants also serve excellent fish or vegetarian dishes. though the majority of eateries welcome tourists well It is always best to choose places that serve vegetables that are in before then. For an informal, relatively cheap meal out, one season, and also, to stick to the vegetarian theme, it must be said option is a pizza, but there is also a wealth of other that some dishes, for instance vegetables that have been possibilities. There are lots of restaurants of every type and boiled and then cooked up with various condiments, or fagioli price, traditional, more creative or ethnic; then there are the all’uccelletto, consisting of beans and tomatoes cooked in a glass 52 osterie and trattorias, which serve Florentine and Tuscan menus; flask, are a valid and cheap alternative to a steak. 53 CITY LIFE and enoteche and wine bars that often lay on some traditional CITY LIFE dishes to accompany a wine tasting. During the warmer To accompany a typical Florentine meal, the best advice is to stick months, take advantage of establishments with a terrace, garden, to Chianti Classico, indicated by the historic black cockerel label. or tables out in the city-centre streets. The production zone is limited to four municipalities in the province of Florence and four in that of Siena. Lots of top-quality A ‘typical’ meal will start with an antipasto, which in a wines are produced in the Florence area. traditional menu consists of things like ham, salami, toasted Besides Chianti Classico, the DOCG Chianti appellation, which in bread with various toppings (crostini misti) or rubbed with the province of Florence is also designated ‘Superiore’, also garlic or served with tomatoes (bruschette). encompasses the sub-zones of Colli Fiorentini, Rufina, Montalbano This is followed by the first course, generally a bowl of and Montespertoli. There are also many DOC pasta or soup. Traditional dishes include pappardelle al (Bianco dell’Empolese, Colli dell’Etruria Centrale, sugo, ribollita (a thick vegetable and bread soup) or pappa Pomino) and IGT (Alta Valle del Greve, Colli della Toscana al pomodoro (another thick soup, made of bread and tomato). Centrale, Novelli di Toscana) wines, many of which are For the second course, allow yourself to be tempted by the meat of good quality. dishes, starting with a steak (which only the tourists call alla fiorentina). But you will not be disappointed by recipes made Finally, a typical meal is rounded off with a dessert – from game, poultry and so on. try almond biscuits dipped in Vin Santo – and coffee. shopping shopping in florence in florence

With its wealth of stores, markets and workshops, Spirito. Near Piazza Santa Croce, along Via de’ Benci, Borgo de’ Florence is an ideal place for shopping. Many of the best Greci and Borgo Santa Croce, there are lots of shops selling shopping areas are in the city centre, but there are also leatherware such as jackets and bags. streets and neighbourhoods in the suburbs where you can buy food items, clothing and accessories, souvenirs For less ‘typical’ and more international goods, you can head for and lots more besides. the shops along Via Calzaiuoli (which links the Cathedral and Piazza della Signoria), Via Roma (which leads to Piazza della Repubblica, home, among other things, to some of Florence’s Starting in the city centre, no trip to Florence would be complete historic bars where you can relax with a coffee or aperitif), Via without a visit to the market of San Lorenzo: the piazza in front Panzani and Via de’ Cerretani, which connect the central train 54 of the church and the streets around the covered market are station to Piazza del Duomo. Then, of course, there are the chic 55 CITY LIFE crowded with stalls selling souvenirs, accessories, clothing and boutiques in the nearby Via della Vigna Nuova. CITY LIFE shoes. On the other hand the covered market is perfect if you want to buy food of various kinds: fruit and vegetables, meat, fish and typical Florentine and Tuscan specialities. All of this can also be found in the covered market of Sant’Ambrogio. And nearby, in Piazza dei Ciompi, there is an interesting flea and second-book market. Another space with open-air stalls is the Mercato Nuovo, beneath the Loggia del Porcellino, which lies between Via Calimala and Via Porta Rossa. Here you can find Moving out from the city centre, there are other good shopping leatherware, clothing and some fun souvenirs. On Tuesday it is areas around Piazza Beccaria, for instance in Borgo la Croce and worth heading out to the park of the Cascine, where there is a Via Gioberti, also known as the ‘street of a hundred shops’; in the large weekly market. Campo di Marte area, around Piazza delle Cure, there are plenty of clothes and food shops, while in the piazza itself there is a daily fruit and vegetable market (mornings). A lot of the produce Crossing Ponte Vecchio, with its dazzling shop-windows full of is sold direct by local farmers. jewellery and fine goldsmith’s items, brings you to the Oltrarno. The ‘other side of the Arno’ is still characterized by a host of craft studios and workshops (jewellery, vases, furniture, textiles, In the northern suburbs of the city, the Peretola area has many wood and paper items), restorers and antiques’ dealers, stores, as does the area around Piazza Dalmazia, near Rifredi especially in the areas of Borgo San Frediano and Piazza Santo railway station. arts arts and crafts and crafts

Florence has been a lively centre for craft activities ever since Craft enterprises are now less frequent in the more up-market city medieval times. The heart of the city has always been home centre around the Cathedral, Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della to a wealth of artisan and art workshops, where many of the great Repubblica. masters of the Renaissance received instruction and training. They have given way to modern shops selling clothes, accessories and a host of other goods, even though a few historic workshops Unfortunately, few craft workshops continue to operate in the city can still be found around San Lorenzo or San Marco. Some have centre today, partly as a result of various phases of urban renewal, kept their name and moved into the suburbs “beyond” the walls, 56 the most recent of which took place following the flood in 1966. in the neighbourhoods of Piazza delle Cure, Campo di Marte and 57 CITY LIFE Porta Romana. CITY LIFE However, within the circle of the ancient walls (which can be seen along the viali di circonvallazione or inner ring-road), there are still Florence City Council has established a a number of neighbourhoods with a lively craft tradition, especially special professional association called in the Santa Croce area and in the Oltrarno. Esercizi Storici (‘Historic Businesses’), which comprises around a hundred craft In the streets around the church of Santa Croce, which have an trades, shops, bars, confectioners and abundance of leather shops and were once the focus for the city’s restaurants. Membership is entirely tanning and leather workshops, there are many restoration voluntary. The main requisites are that the businesses, especially of antique furniture. There are a wide range business must have been active for at least fifty years, operate of workshops in this area, some run by non-Florentines who have within the council boundaries on premises which, if not the learnt the trade over the years. original ones, have at least preserved some traditional historic and cultural features. The statute of the association can be viewed by But the area with the greatest concentration of craft businesses is the general public on the council’s internet site. undoubtedly the Oltrarno. The neighbourhoods of San Frediano, Santo Spirito and Piazza Pitti contain the majority of antiquarians, restorers and woodworkers. The workshops are mainly clustered around the main piazzas (Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza del Cestello and Piazza Pitti), but can also be found in the streets of historic neighbourhoods such as Via Pisana or Borgo San Frediano. florence florence nightlife nightlife

Though Florence is hardly a metropolis, there is no shortage Florence has a wide range of clubs and venues. of things to do in the evenings. The ones listed here offer live music and dancing: In fact, there is something for all tastes in the city centre, where practically every street corner has a pub or cafe, club or disco. FLOG TWICE OTEL VARIETÉ TENAX VIPER THEATRE via Michele via Verdi 57r via Generale via Pratese 46 via Lombardia / Each neighbourhood has its own particular nightlife scene, which Mercati 24b tel. 055 2476356 Dalla Chiesa 9 tel. 055 308160 via Pistoiese you can enjoy exploring: Santo Spirito, San Niccolò and the tel. 055 487145 www.twiceclub.com tel. 055 650791 www.tenax.org tel. 055 318231 www.flog.it www.otelvariete.com www.viperclub.eu Oltrarno, Santa Croce… The Florentines like eating out late as well, at a restaurant or pizzeria, and then moving on to catch some music or to dance. It is not hard to work out whether you are going 58 into a bar or club popular with students, the over-30s or the 59 CITY LIFE fashion-conscious. Besides the music, style and clientele, the CITY LIFE prices can vary greatly as well, as can the way things are organized: free admission, obligatory purchase of a drink, table service, club membership, etc.

Theatre, cinema, festivals, concerts – keep a lookout for posters listing what’s on when you are visiting the city, or better still, check the APT’s website for upcoming events when planning your trip. And remember that the nightlife options proliferate in the www.firenzeturismo.it warm summer months. Museums and galleries not infrequently extend their opening hours until late in the evening, and open-air shows and cinema are laid on so people can enjoy the cool of the evening. Piazzas, parks, gardens and various hidden corners of the city are transformed into big or small venues for events (often free) that really can satisfy everyone’s tastes.

If you are looking for the big discos or dance halls, then you will need to move out from the city centre. And that is not the only reason for exploring the province. Every municipality in the Florence area is proud to present at least one event, festival or concert, offering further opportunities for a rather different and special night out. www.firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it FLORENCE CITY GUIDE 2009

TEXTS APT Firenze PHOTOS APT Firenze Archive Museo Marino Marini Opera Santa Maria del Fiore TRANSLATION Jeremy Carden for NTL GRAPHIC DESIGN ClaimCommunication PRINTED BY Stabilimento Poligrafico Fiorentino EDITING COMPLETED July 2009