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FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

AUGUST 2021 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

ALL YOU CAN DO IN Florence TIPS ON LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DURING SUMMER SEASON

SEVERAL OUT-OF-TOWN DESTINATIONS FOR A FUN, RELAXING EXPERIENCE

V A SI E S T E S E Dear friends and readers, CASTELLO SESTO Where tips apertura SIGHTSEEING the tourism sector is FIORENTINO in great difficulties all SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO over the world. We V I A

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silverware brand, you VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano hope of recovery as the VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini can purchase engravings, VIA MARINI VIA PORTIGIANI world slowly overcomes Cattedrale di San Romolo BO SCONI STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI the pandemic. glasses, decanters, MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A

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a few months. VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA PISTOIESE VIA CARLO PISACANE unmissable destinationGiardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA GUGLIELMO M A VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

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DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT RFA NA CV I PIAZZA C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA VNES AIRN EI V DURING SUMMER SEASON VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I I N I GIACOMO MagnificentV I lived in L D ONACCI OR AI A I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N SEVERAL OUT-OF-TOWN DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O DESTINATIONS FOR A FUN, I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O RELAXING EXPERIENCE E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G Contents VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U Palazzo Medici Riccardi SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E and the greatestVIA XXartists SETTEMBRE OTTI V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI E V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BAND

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T E DI SAN worked there. EOL NA E V I R LEOPOLDO O A R N O TOP IN TOWN TOP BRANDSA MARTIRI N 3 30 P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I The most famous attractions to The best fashion designers V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOL Chiesa San Jacopino VIA DEI CA V I L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO A L 56 ESSENTIALS 'A SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA visit in Florence: monuments, for your high-end shopping. AC O A VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I V I A C A V O E PIAZZA V V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI G Information and tipsVIA DE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E COVER IMAGE I del Sacro Cuore D Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI churches, gardens and hidden O LE VIA ROSOLI Franchi E P P E S I R MONTIGNANO RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI The cathedral complex includes VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N PIAZZALEto get around the city L L A V. L. BAUSI A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G C PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M treasures. INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto FASHION OUTLETS B B AI VIA D 36 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO the Santa Maria del Fiore V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI VIA MASSA A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI and toR experience V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE church with the Brunelleschi’s IA O Giardino A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A di Valfonda N N E L L I Several of the best shopping P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici the Abest Z N E A F A that Florence VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento Dome, the Baptistery and the T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA LO N I D O PORTA AL L VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO destinations not far from L ABOUTV IA D E I L IG U S T R I PONTEL U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I VECCHIO... A LARGO 10 G E Giotto’s Campanile. V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D has to offer.San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A A R N O Florence, offering discounts S A C C OI One of the undisputed La SS. Annunziata San Jacopo di Ripoli DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U symbols of Florence and year-round. V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » MAP PAGES OR58-59 A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O SO Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ’ARI ERVI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E da one of the most photographed terina Palazzo VI INI a VI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . 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NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI SHADES OF ORANGE NOVELLA L VI VIA BRONZINO V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

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N VIA MAZZETTA I T O R N GI L L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O I O CASELLINA V. DEI PR V. MARSI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO E VIA VILLANI Ex monastero IE TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) E www.whereitalia.com LI O R 1 VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA TI PIAZZA LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO C P U C PIAZZA O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO D MOZZI San Felice E

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH [ SIGHTSEEING] ® MORE AT ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ PAGE 52 whereMAGAZINE Florence In the centre of Florence, a few steps from www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGE the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the Top in town 58 creative heart of Florentine designer Angela PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 6 plastic jewellery items, much loved by T: +39 02 25063100 internationl customers, are genuinely unique [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/florence pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo

SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF to purchase a selection of clothing items Andrea Jarach and accessories that complete the brand’s [email protected] collections. www.angelacaputi.com MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi [email protected] RINASCENTE CONTRIBUTORS In the heart of the city, in Piazza della Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Repubblica, Rinascente offers the best Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, of cosmetics, fashion, food and design, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, with the addition of a new “store of craft” Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli (ground floor) with a focus on hand-made products following the tradition, in perfect ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock harmony with Florentine’s identity. And 8 3 there’s also the opportunity to enjoy typical CARTOGRAPHY tasty dishes while looking at a breathtaking City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 panorama: Rinascente will offer you a Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - priceless experience. www.rinascente.it © Proedi Comunicazione 2021

COO Pierfrancesco Coreno [email protected] L’IPPOGRIFO STAMPE D’ARTE An artisan workshop where you can MARKETING & ADVERTISING purchase a memory of your trip to Italy. In Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, this laboratory shop, the Raffaellis create Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni their works with mastery and passion, [email protected] manually engraving them on copper ADMINISTRATION

plates, then printing them on precious [email protected] SHUTTERSTOCK limited edition paper. The prints are then handcoloured, signed and numbered by PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,

the author. The works can be completed by SALES SUPPORT MANAGER PHOTOS © Paola Grilli placing them in hand-made frames. [email protected] www.ippogrifostampedarte.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Marta Mailhac Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in [email protected] OFFICINA FARMACEUTICA SANTA in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main the square are the Fountain of Neptune MARIA NOVELLA CUSTOMER SERVICES in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa and a series of statues of Renaissance Under a nineteenth-century vault, an Cristina Garbini official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and origin, representing one of the most abundance of perfumes, soaps and [email protected] Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of green marble, the majestic square-based important sculptural cycles in the world. cosmetics are to be found. Those wishing dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can The most famous is certainly REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 to immerse themselves in an experience of EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s be visited by climbing no less than 414 Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, yesteryear can find ancient preparations, DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, stairs up to the top, from where you can whereas the original is conserved in the herbal teas and herbalist products, typical PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA 1 4 LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) is a symbol known all over the world. enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Galleria dell’Accademia). specialties and liqueurs alongside antique Dome. 3 Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in scientific materials and unusual gifts such the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to BATTISTERO GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI as perfume diffusers for the home, wax apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA One of the most famous museums in the in the next issue. products, accessories and decorative items. characterised by an octagonal plan, lined AND PALAZZO VECCHIO world on account of its extraordinary The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the www.smnovella.com information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences with a dome of eight segments, covered by This is the central square of Florence, the collections of ancient sculptures and arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated seat of civil power and social heart of the paintings (from the Middle Ages to the or in part is strictly prohibited. with white marble from Carrara and green city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio modern age). The Gallery occupies the first >> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS marble from Prato, characteristics of the (the seat of the Municipal Council of and second floors of the large building IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Florence), the splendid Loggia della erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST 2 5 EXCLUSIVE HOTELS period. Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, project by Giorgio Vasari florence.whereitalia.com/distribution

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PONTE VECCHIO then stretches along the Arno, over the PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, Giotto painted some of his great SANTO SPIRITO The official date of foundation of the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo This is the most famous and appreciated which is unusual and of great beauty, masterpieces here and the French writer A point of reference of the Augustinian current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great panoramic point in Florence, with its views boasts one of the city’s best conserved Stendhal experienced that profound order. The church has given its name to the the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On seen all over the world in million of original floors. 10 artistic agitation that has been known entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ display along the Corridor are over 1000 postcards and reproductions. The design of since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance shops, who used the river to dispose of paintings. 7 the square dates back to 1869, when MERCATO CENTRALE The basilica contains the monumental architecture, the church was the last great their waste in a hurry. At the end of the Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to Built at the end of the 19th century, the sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 16th century, however, when it became PALAZZO PITTI the city’s most famous artist, the square has Central Market is a building of a certain Machiavelli. 12 the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s architectural merit. The project was SAN LORENZO and jewellers started to arrive, and they The symbol of wealth and power, the most famous sculptures. 9 entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the SANTA MARIA NOVELLA One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, have been there uninterruptedly to this building was inhabited by the Medici, then architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele A point of reference of the Dominican founded, according to the tradition, by day. 6 by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the SAN MINIATO AL MONTE in Milan, who was inspired by order, the church, with its elegant façade Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, CORRIDOIO VASARIANO original architecture dates back to the 15th medieval religious building situated at one reference for informal but good quality synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. however, is the result of the last major The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first of the highest panoramic points in cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 It hosts exceptional works of art by reconstruction work that took place in the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at Florence. The most spectacular access is Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino 15th century at the wishes of the Medici Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens gained via the monumental flight of steps. SANTA CROCE Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo and under the direction of the great entrance to which is at the beginning of are one of the most important examples of The outside of the church is decorated with One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a Uccello. 13 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 green and white marble, typical of point of reference of the Franciscan order.

4 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK PIAZZA SANTA CROCE

Eternal fascination

The large Piazza Santa Croce is one of the main squares of the historic centre of Florence and over time it has become one of the nerve centres of Florentine cultural and commercial life. It has long been the theatre for the city’s festivals, meetings and celebrations, and in the 15th century it hosted jousts and tournaments on horseback.

Facing onto it are the splendid Basilica of Santa Croce and a number of prestigious residences, including Palazzo Cocchi Serristori and Palazzo dell’Antella.

Completed in 1320, the Franciscan church quickly became the sacred place that noble and illustrious Florentines yearned to have as their final resting place: Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Macchiavelli, Ugo Foscolo and Vittorio Alfieri, to mention just a few.

Don’t miss a visit to the Bell Tower, the Sacristy with the famous Crucifix of Cimabue and the Medici Chapel, the Cloisters, the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum and the Basement (www.santacroceopera.it).

Since the end of the 15th century, the matches of Calcio Storico Fiorentino have been held in the square and a marble circle has been placed on both Palazzo dell’Antella and the building opposite to indicate the half-way line of the pitch.

On 14 May 1865, on the occasion of the fifth centenary of poet Dante Alighieri’s birth, a monument dedicated to him was positioned in the centre of the square, but the monument has been removed and moved to its current position on the parvis of the church to enable the Calcio in Costume matches to take place. TRUBA7113 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

6 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 7 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK PALAZZO PITTI MUSEUMS

A RENAISSANCE MASTERPIECE. A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums.

Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery.

Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens.

Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school.

Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son.

Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. PH © ROBMENTING / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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considering it a source of great pride, that sometimes you need only turn into an Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening unknown alley to get away from the bustling together sporting rowers, is a point of up new larger, more panoramic windows for crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. reference for the activities that take place on About Ponte Vecchio... his benefit. One rather romanticised version the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the UNDER THE BRIDGE offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, memory of such beauty, would decide to Finally, you should know that there is also lunches and dinners. save the bridge from the terrible bombing life under the bridge: the historic Società campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.

LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, Vasari Corridor

It is one of the undisputed

symbols of Florence and, irst of all, it must be said that protruding over the river. as such, is one of the most Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Then, grafted onto the high part of the photographed sites in the Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic first to identify a ford in the passageway that was built at the wishes world. Here are some details so Arno were the Etruscans. of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect you can get to know it better. The Roman founders of the the administrative buildings to his private Fvillage of “Florentia” built a wood and stone residence, without exposing the sovereign to bridge there, the forerunner of the current any danger. one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations A UNIQUE HISTORY and modifications, this passage across the The change of identity of the zone during Arno has remained in its place, actively the Renaissance is due precisely to the participating in the history of the city. Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE had a preference for the bridge on account The bridge is characterised by a solution of the ease with which they could throw with lowered arches, never previously their waste into the river, were evicted en seen, which makes it particularly stable bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign and its profile unmistakable. From the very goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which beginning, it was understood to be a natural were more appropriate for his gaze (and continuation of the road, and so it has his nose), and they have continued their shops and porticos along both sides facing presence there ever since for the pleasure SHUTTERSTOCK.COM towards the centre, each with a single shop of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has window closed by strong wooden doors, been an assiduous witness – and sometimes

and often with a picturesque backroom a protagonist – of the history of the city: PHOTOS ©

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UNTIL 16 JANUARY 2022 THE MYTH OF DISCOVER RAPHAEL CONTINUES After being displayed in the major exhibition organised at the Scuderie AND ENJOY del Quirinale in Rome, the ‘Portrait Permanent and temporary exhibitions in Florence are of Pope Leo X with Cardinals Giulio de’ Medici and Luigi de’ Rossi’ returns to its gradually returning to welcome visitors after a long season of home in Florence. The exhibition CASATI STEFANO © documents its restoration and

closure: an opportunity to return to museums, symbolic places PH of the country’s culture, strating from the complex of the Uffizi interprets the scientific analyses of the painting, confirming that the Galleries and the Forte di Belvedere. masterpiece was executed entirely by Raphael’s hand.

“Raffaello e il ritorno di Papa Medici”. Palazzo Pitti (Sala delle Nicchie). www.uffizi.it ARCHIVI ALINARI, FIRENZE

Italiae ©

UNTIL 10 OCTOBER JULIA NIEBUHR

ITALY. SELF- © Ali Banisadr PORTRAIT IN THE PH MIRROR For the summer of 2021, Forte UNTIL 29 AUGUST di Belvedere, one of the most interesting open-air museums THE FASCINATION in the world, is once again OF RESTLESSNESS focusing on photography The Ali Banisadr’s first exhibition in with a project whose title is as an Italian museum, and the first in evocative and topical as ever: Florence, brings his work face to face “Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow. Italy with the art and history of Florence: at self-portrait in the mirror”. There the Museo Stefano Bardini, the artist’s are two major photographic paintings will be in dialogue with the Pienovuoto exhibitions set up on the works of the collection created by three floors of the Buonatalenti Bardini, with medieval and Renaissance building: one promoted by the marbles and paintings, with Persian Fondazione Alinari, which is carpets and with the shining armour an archive history of the best preserved in the museum characterised UNTIL 3 OCTOBER Italian photography dedicated UNTIL 22 AUGUST by the famous Bardini “blue”. In to our country; the other THE UFFIZI IN DIALOGUE Palazzo Vecchio, the artist has been involves the great photographer ▲ A NEW FACE FOR PALAZZO STROZZI invited to create three site-specific WITH CONTEMPORARY ART Massimo Vitali, famous for his Called upon to reinterpret the façade of a symbol of the Florentine Renaissance, JR - one of paintings, inspired by the reading The Uffizi celebrates contemporary art with “metaphysical” shots, a portrait of the world’s most famous contemporary artists - proposes a reflection on the accessibility of of Dantes “Divine Comedy” on the an exhibition in dialogue with the Gallery’s our contemporary society amidst cultural sites in the age of the Covid-19. With his monumental site-specific installation occasion of the celebrations for the masterpieces: 30 works (some previously solitudes, multitudes, full spaces, “La Ferita” (“The Wound”), 28 metres high and 33 metres wide, the artist proposes a sort of 700th anniversary of the death of the unpublished) by Giuseppe Penone, an exponent assemblages and empty spaces. visual tear in the facade of Palazzo Strozzi, which opens up to the vision of an interior that Supreme Poet. of Arte Povera, are on display during the summer is both real and imagined at the same time. The work has been created with a black and months, as part of the 2021 celebrations of Dante. ITALIAE. Dagli Alinari ai white photographic collage, typical of the artist’s style, to create an illusionistic game and ALI BANISADR. Beautiful Lies

ARCHIVIO PENONE maestri della fotografia to represent a symbolic but painful wound that accumulates all the cultural institutions in Museo Stefano Bardini and Museo di “Alberi In Versi” by Giuseppe Penone contemporanea Italy and elsewhere. PH © Palazzo Vecchio, Sala dei Gigli Uffizi Gallery. www.uffizi.it PIENOVUOTO. Massimo Vitali www.museonovecento.it Forte di Belvedere. “La Ferita” by JR Via di S. Leonardo, 1. musefirenze.it Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza degli Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

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► NEWS FROM THE “DAVID” MUSEUM A new layout has marked the reopening of the Galleria dell’Accademia in recent weeks: from the Gipsoteca to the Sala del Colosso, from the Sale Bizantine to the Dipartimento degli Strumenti Musicali. Six hundred works have found a new location in the museum with the largest number of Michelangelo’s sculptures in the world, in particular the ones placed along a path that accompanies the visitor to Michelangelo’s “David”. Work will continue in the coming months to make the vast Florentine collection of masterpieces of painting, sculpture and musical instruments even more attractive. MASSIMO SESTINI

Galleria dell’Accademia. Via Ricasoli, 58/60 ©

www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it PH

UNTIL 18 APRIL 2022 FROM GALILEO TOWARDS A WUNDERKAMMER OF SILK PRINTS THE MODERN SCIENCE BY FERRAGAMO Don’t miss a visit to the Museo Galileo, Until 1950, the Ferragamo name was synonymous with women’s footwear. The an extraordinary collection of scientific brand’s founder, Salvatore, dreamed of transforming his internationally renowned © ANTONIO QUATTRONE instruments collected over nearly three PH brand into a fashion label that dressed a woman from head to toe. And his dream centuries by the Medici and Lorraine families, came true: it was one of his daughters, Fulvia, who launched in the 1970s the including the only original telescopes by continuous production of women’s and men’s silk accessories with personalized Galileo Galilei in the world. This is a precious patterns characterized by exclusive decorative subjects, especially flowers and testimony to the progressive improvement of exotic animals. This creative world overflows with inspirational references, from observation and measurement instruments oriental art to twentieth-century paintings or ancient tomes on botany. At the that favoured the enormous advancement Museo Salvatore Ferragamo you can explore the universe of printed fabrics, ties of scientific knowledge in the 16th and and scarves combined with the sources of inspiration for each motif - whether it 17th centuries, a decisive contribution to the be a book, a painting, vase or sculpture. affirmation of modern science.

SETA. Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. Palazzo Spini Feroni Museo Galileo www.ferragamo.com Piazza dei Giudici, 1. www.museogalileo.it

▲ THE SACRED LIGHT OF PAINTING THE RENAISSANCE In the famous museum dedicated to the great BEGAN HERE painter and Dominican friar Beato Angelico, Lorenzo the Magnificent lived in Palazzo a room houses the world’s most important Medici Riccardi and the greatest artists collection of works on wood by the founder of worked there. Unmissable from the Medici the early Florentine Renaissance: 16 works are period are the Magi Chapel, frescoed in the housed in the new “Sala del Beato Angelico”, 15th century by Benozzo Gozzoli, a work of which has been completely refurbished to rare beauty, as are the famous “Madonna offer the public works with a clear and refined with Child” by Filippo Lippi, the elegant design that touches on peaks of pictorial Michelozzo’s courtyard and the Medici delicacy and transparency. Gardens with the Limonaia. Sala del Beato Angelico The Magi Chapel Museo di San Marco. Piazza San Marco, 3 Palazzo Medici Riccardi. musefirenze.it © ANTONIO QUATTRONE www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it PH © SABINA BERNACCHINI PH

14 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 15 Find the next year calendar Dante 2021 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO on www.whereitalia.com 2021 EVENTS IN ITALY Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of

COMING ▼ PITTI IMMAGINE beauty and warm hospitality. SOON IN FLORENCE, To commemorate the 700th anniversary TOGETHER AGAIN of his death, a full calendar of initiatives After the return of Pitti Filati, Pitti Uomo and Pitti has been created involving the three cities Bimbo between the end of June and the beginning associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona of July, the calendar already includes the end-of- and Florence) in the coming months, which summer appointment of Pitti Fragranze, now in will continue until Sunday 12 September its 18th edition. As usual, the annual event will take 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti place at the Stazione Leopolda, presenting the best will climb onto the podium for a concert international artistic perfumery, new beauty and © ANTONIO VISCIDO in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a wellness products and the most exclusive skincare performance that will also be repeated in lines. In a scenario in which the artistic perfumery is Florence and Verona. The programme of PHOTOS undergoing a major evolution, the Italian market events will reach its culmination with the has a leading role to play in outlining an even richer inauguration of the Museum of the Italian “Fragranze experience”, with high-level protagonists Language at Santa Maria Novella. oriented towards new trends. Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher Pitti Fragranze, 17-19 September and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence Stazione Leopolda. www.pittimmagine.com 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European www.pittimmagine.com and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, SEPTEMBER 7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it which for centuries has been considered of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | the greatest work written in the Italian 4-17/9 | Venice | #VivaVetro (The Venice International Alba White Truffle Fair. language and one of the masterpieces of Glass Week 5th edition). www.fieradeltartufo.org world literature, describes a journey into the www.theveniceglassweek.com 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and ▲ IVORY MASTERPIECES 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. suffering of the damned, the punishments Rethinking the exhibition itinerary, improving conservation methods @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com www.routesonline.com to which they are subjected and the glories and enhancing the works on display: this was the aim of the complete 5-10/9 | | Milan | SUPERSALONE and 12-13/10 | Milan | SMAU. www.smau.it they have earned. A journey into history and Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair renovation of the Sala degli Avori in the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it which alone covers a time span of fifteen centuries, from rare Etruscan and eternal feelings. 8-26/9 | Milan | MiTo SettembreMusica 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. Roman objects to 19th century artefacts. This is undoubtedly a collection www.mitosettembremusica.it www.eurochocolate.com that in terms of the abundance and prestige can be considered in line 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). The main sites in Florence that will host the with some of the great European museums, such as the South Kensington 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. www.vinitaly.com events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the Museum in London and the Musée de Cluny in Paris. Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 22-26/10 | Milan | TuttoFood. Milano World theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the 13-19/9 | Milan | Milano Artweek Food Exhibition. www.tuttofood.it and Host University of Florence, the Accademia della Sala degli Avori. Museo Nazionale del Bargello. milanoartweek.comune.milano.it Milano. host.fieramilano.it Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Via del Proconsolo, 4. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com NOVEMBER Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.artissima.art www.orticola.org 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda Merano Wine Festival. UNTIL 14 NOVEMBER (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com www.meranwinefestival.com ARTURO MARTINI, 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. www.homifashionjewels.com bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. MASTER OF THE 20TH CENTURY 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | www.milanomusicweek.it The link between Arturo Martini and Florence can be seen in the presence Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. © ARRIGO COPPITZ of some of his fundamental works from the 1930s - attesting to the cultural

PH 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. venice.whereitalia.com dynamism of the city and Tuscany in that period - and also in the relationship www.runromethemarathon.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International with the visual sources that Florentine museums were able to offer him. The 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. exhibition is part of the “Solo” cycle dedicated to the major artists of the 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com www.eicma.it twentieth century, designed to recount lesser-known aspects of the lives of 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. End of November | Venice | www.theonemilano.com Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera the great protagonists of painting and sculpture of the last century: Emilio 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. Season. www. teatrolafenice.it Vedova, Piero Manzoni, Vincenzo Agnetti, Gino Severini, Fabio Mauri, Mirko and www.cameramoda.it Medardo Rosso. 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair. DECEMBER This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with SOLO. Arturo Martini e Firenze 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s Museo del Novecento. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10. www.museonovecento.it OCTOBER the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of www.milanowineweek.com www.teatroallascala.org Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna.

16 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN Tuscany’s soft rolling hills

to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a

year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of square is dominated by a series of buildings medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there of inestimable historical and architectural one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can value, including the 14th-century Palazzo some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella of grapes and olives. di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- picturesque medieval alleys, where you can both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result purchase the local hand-crafted goods departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. or taste the traditional panforte, the typical the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar fruit and pepper. families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and And a few kilometres from Siena, another privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence town declared a World Heritage Site by museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces

SHUTTERSTOCK characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. Tuscany, nature and art PHOTO © round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a an unrivalled cultural and the good news is that around an hour tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the away by train, bus or car you will find benches. The picturesque historic centre has historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy remained almost intact, including countless surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval churches, which have earned Lucca Here are some suggestions medieval towns and abbeys and the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, kilometres of coastline for bathers. Renaissance squares and buildings and for trips outside the city that I Roman amphitheatres. are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also For more details ask If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the be easily reached from Florence in about right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range an hour by train. Loved by tourists from your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI architectural wonders that will catapult you Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the Cathedral, which stands in a unique About an hour by train from Florence is monumental context, declared a UNESCO

Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM historic centres, surrounded by ancient Once you’ve completed your visit to this th 16 -century walls, today still practically fully unbelievable square, if you have a little time Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © intact and walkable in their entirely. You can left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno

18 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 19 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA NOVARA TRIESTE MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MILANO PHOTO © Pisa, Tuscany PHOTO © Ponte Vecchio, Florence

on a human scale and in contact with by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, celebrateALESSANDRIA an important event surrounded other hand, is known as “the pearl of the by train directly from Florence, the beach nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. offers its guests itineraries lasting between by a unique atmosphere. Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking at Quercianella, again in the province Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of TORINO landscapes, characterised by sheerFERRARA cliffs, of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, the region’s most unmissable destinations, THE BEACHES coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach Mediterranean maquis and perfect for taking in the perfumes and colours of the including cities of art and charming Your bathing costume and beach towel PIACENZA diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. Tuscan countryside in ways that would landscapes (ww.balloonintuscany.com). are probably not the first things you think MAR otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Various launch points – located in Florence, of putting in your suitcase if you are about pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the to set off for Florence, but if youGENOVA visit in the ADRIATICO and refreshment with visits to wine cellars heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to summer you might feel the desire to seek a BOLOGNA and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local personalize your itinerary to the maximum, little refreshment at one of the many beaches FORTE specialities. If you are not particularly sporty at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of dotted along the Tuscan coastline. but would still like to visit the outskirts of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery Although the Medici city is deep inland, DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI Florence from this unique perspective, then and the discovery of cultural landmarks there are in factMAR various beaches LIGURE that can LUCCA MOUNTAIN RIDGE you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that guided by pilots who are experts on the be easily reached both by car and by train. irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly locations. The slow movement of the hot-air The closest, the preferred destination of chic PISA less tiring. Ask your concierge. balloon makes Balloon in Tuscany tours Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in FIRENZE ideal for photography lovers, especially in VENTIMIGLIAnorth-western Tuscany, with its long well TUSCANY FROM ABOVE the early light of dawn, when old castles, equipped beaches, dotted with venues It may be difficult to visit all the main places Renaissance Tuscan villas, ancient towns, frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and SAN GIMIGNANO of interest in Tuscany if you have little time towers, water courses and vineyards are exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the available. If you happen to only be in Florence tinges with countless delicate shades. province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic Thanks to the different sizes of the baskets, different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for LIVORNO ANCONA tour from a different perspective, perhaps the hot-air balloons can host from 4 to 10 nature lovers with its free beaches; here the SIENA in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a passengers, but they are also available for water is shallow and transparent and the company recognised romantic flights for couples, perhaps to sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the 20 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 PERUGIAwww.whereitalia.com 21

PESCARA CORSICA

ROMA

MAR TIRRENO

NAPOLI

SARDEGNA WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci The Italian ‘Lake district’ and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his Over the past few years, due to the influx mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the Bologna, Unique banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous the university of Italy lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Built in 1088, most historians agree that the Italian Landscape Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former University of Bologna is the oldest university is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, in the world. Thanks to the continuous The variety and beauty of its “landscape” so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more turnover of students from all over the world, is what makes Italy unique. This term is not vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water from medieval times to the present day, this and the diversity of the countryside make university has made Bologna a vibrant city always easily translatable but relates to the the area a real outdoor recreation ground. from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic environment and the many ways in which Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè man has transformed it, during its multi- form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, Carducci, one of the most important Italian faceted history. The result is a combination is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; of nature and art that delights the eye and DOP olive oil. for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which the heart. I cannot regret, but I love it more because Mantua, it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the the city of the Gonzagas historic centre with its porticoes and towers, Though less well-known than Venice or streets and markets, and main square with Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly in Northern Italy on the banks of the surroundings are also breathtaking. River Mincio, is packed with art treasures. Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Portofino, home to Lombard city experienced its maximum the ‘piazzetta’ and period of splendour during the Renaissance, mysterious villas when its most famous masterpieces were With its narrow streets leading down to the executed. A renowned patron of the arts, sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina

22 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como www.whereitalia.com 23 PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

The very famous Chianti zone, are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, renowned for its vineyards, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY olives groves, towns and abbeys “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee built on hilltops, is around for yourself, and then purchasing another originally covered the Colosseum. They half an hour by car from the one for someone else who doesn’t have the were ‘recycled’ to build several historic centre of Florence. money to pay for it. Roman buildings including the Basilica Naples is the ideal starting point to explore of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini. the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of Florence lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried How can one describe a city which by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption originated in the Renaissance in just a few of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one words? It’s impossible! The only solution of the most incredible archaeological sites in Venice is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the the world. masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Tuscan Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Venice Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It Matera, the hidden pearl With canals in the place of streets, and is really no surprise that the entire city boats instead of cars, Venice, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since of the South of a thousand bridges, spectacular there is not one centimeter that is not When it became the European capital of facades, and breathtaking views, offers a worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility dreamlike vision. This romantic city par you make time to lose yourself amidst it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark excellence, has a wealth of historic and its art and architecture, its history and its ages, and is one of the most intriguing places artistic treasures that would be difficult landscapes. There’s just one thing that in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the to find in any country other than Italy. you need to remember: this is the place uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to where Stendhal experienced what was so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the later to become known as the Stendhal churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo syndrome… into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze other, they overhang a gorge to create an wander over the lagoon. incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Rome Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Fifteen square kilometers and twenty- Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San five-thousand attractions: Rome’s Matera Portofino Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of historic centre has been a UNESCO San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely times, this beautiful coastal village has been There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority track, Matera has often been used as a film photographed monument in the world, a highly sought-after holiday destination. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes the Colosseum is considered one of Florence And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique are located. The summer getaway for the rich and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson the 7 wonders of the modern world. is a reference point for international tourism. throughout the world. Ultimately, there and famous including financiers, big names chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of The memory of its performances – Although its hotels are astronomically are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Turin gladiators, wild animals and naval battles priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Passion of Christ’. A Roman colony, the first capital of – re-enacted in the arena have always or a stroll around its designer shops can all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine Italy and an industrial city. From its fueled the fantasy of history and film be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to origins to the present time, Turin has buffs. However, everyone is aware of many anecdotes about the town which was and foreigners. There are gently rolling defend the shipment of the precious marble The Kingdom of Baroque had several different incarnations, Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, what happened to the 100,000 cubic used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, each of which has left profound traces Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the metres of shining white marble that movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular streets and stone houses scattered around thus making it an important crossroads for in its architecture and urban layout. names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord the countryside. The Tuscan experience is trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury Extending over a surface area of less Protected by UNESCO, and located in south- Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that bound to win over your heart. However, if you shopping. than 150 square kilometers, crossed by eastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin heart and leave you awestruck. Although is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof! is characterized by a checkerboard-like almost all of these towns existed during Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after Ah, the wonders of Tuscany! grid of streets that makes getting your medieval times, they were razed to the the tomb was opened and his villa became a Naples and then… bearings easy. One of the city’s most “See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. site of sinister, inexplicable happenings… distinctive architectural features is its Forte dei Marmi: the sea unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle 18km of porticoes which house shops of Tuscany clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, of beauty: architecture, urban planning and and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant Tuscany, the Italy that In addition to being the birthplace of a queen passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic the ornamentation of buildings constitute squares have given Turin the nickname everyone dreams about (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort and neglected. People are friendly and the crowning achievement of one of the last Rome of a ‘drawing room’ city. There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for periods of the flourishing Baroque movement works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM in Europe. An absolute marvel!

24 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 25 [ WELCOME TO ITALIA ] Dream experiences

To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special THE SPECIAL ONES experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable MARKET TOUR AND TUSCAN opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive COOKING EXPERIENCE Let’s visit the Sant’Ambrogio Market with a chef- city tours or book the outdoor experience you’ve been guide and buy all the necessary for a cooking dreaming of for the summer: www.welcometoitalia.com class. Enjoy your meal with a wine tasting.

CLICK & BUY ALL ABOUT FLORENCE! Make the most of the city in one day. If you are planning to stay in Florence only 24h then you can’t miss this combination tour. You will have the opportunity to enjoy a guided tour of the Accademia Gallery and the Uffizi Museum and to walk around the city center.

CLICK & BUY

TOP MUSEUM TOUR RAFTING TOUR Visit the two most important museums ON THE RIVER ARNO in Florence which host some of the A very new experience! Enjoy a scenic and greatest art pieces of the Italian history. relaxing getaway on the Arno river with a The guided tours include the skip the rafting tour from San Niccolò Bridge, passing line tickets and the free admission to the under the Ponte Vecchio and back. Archeological Museum and the Museum of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure. CLICK & BUY

CLICK & BUY

FLORENCE BY NIGHT PRIVATE EXPERIENCE Explore the city center with a private tour: you can enjoy a pleasant walk with an expert guide who will take you in the main squares and most interesting landmarks of Florence, from the Signoria square to the Ponte Vecchio and the Oltrarno district. FASHION TOUR IN FLORENCE The best of town temptations: the antique CLICK & BUY Florentine perfume shop, Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella and the Live your dream and get Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. EXCLUSIVE TOUR your experience in a click AT THE ACCADEMIA CLICK & BUY Don’t miss an original tour discovering the stories of the “David” by Michelangelo, one of the most famous sculptures in the world, and a must-see masterpiece in Florence. The Accademia ticket and museum reservation fees are included. Welcome to Italia network CLICK & BUY promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents Discover other experiences: with high-quality experiences. www.welcometoitalia.com 26 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.welcometoitalia.com SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & W The Guidelines M H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the articles personally to combine with and complete most popular luxury brands are grouped under her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, the separate category “Top Brands”, which elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open be found on page 20. Several unusual shops, Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. stocking items and rarities for collectors or Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in Anichini the standard shopping sections. CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is where skilled artisan hands create elegant items generally included in the price of goods. for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible TAX-FREE SHOPPING to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. and exported from the EU: before finalizing anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, whether they are eligible for a tax refund. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 The entire Aspesi Shopping hours are generally from 10am to The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion Ferragamo 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on lines, elegant details and natural materials. Sundays (except those located in central Florence) His current collections are still based on the universe and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to Florentine brand that has known how to all those who like their outerwear without flashy DINING combine age-old hand crafting skills with labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon- Reservations for most restaurants are strongly the creativity typical of products made Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun advised. In Italy, service is included in the 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo price meaning that although tipping is not Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat represents quality, contemporary compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. of satisfaction. Some menus include the word elegance, innovation and tradition. T: 055 287931. Map E4 “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to The Florentine boutique, which the cost of the service and bread. Although no Brunello Cucinelli contains all the fashion house’s men’s, dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed women’s, accessories and perfume usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian collections, is located inside the medieval restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the historic workshop since 1938, today to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). production of high-quality cashmere knitwear its headquarters and the site of the On a silver platter € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / and today boasts top-level production with Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. total look men’s and women’s collections. Today At Brandimarte, the historic Florentine silverware brand, you can purchase engravings, glasses, decanters, boutique occupies the entire ground it is seen as a model enterprise all over the SIGHTSEEING bracelets, rings, necklaces, pendants and much more besides, all strictly made in Italy. By Chiara Zaccarelli world for its support for the dignity of work and floor of the building, inside large spaces Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic decorated with 18th-century frescoes, or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com. hence our decision to list them under a stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. n the heart of the historic centre of medals. The collections of jewels, exclusively separate category. The information provided the banks of the River Arno. And it is T: 055 285832. Map F3 Florence, there is a special boutique, made in Italy, created by the best Florentine on museums and monuments is verified as precisely the wing of the store that faces a genuinely exciting place to tour which artisans, include bracelets, rings, necklaces, meticulously as possible. However, data such as onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the I telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and Elena Mirò aims to re-educate you on the use of silver earrings and much more besides. Among Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the accessibility of sites are all subject to An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to in everyday life, breaking the habit of seeing the lines to be worn, standing out are the change, on a seasonal basis and also due to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò the exclusive footwear line that revisits the silver item as a luxury piece to only be “timeless” hammered jewellery, elegant and restoration work, museum loans or changes has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing some of the brand’s iconic. This is a exhibited on special occasions. This is the sophisticated. of management. Ask your concierge items that enhance every woman’s look with space whose layout recalls the studio a contemporary, refined and ever new style. workshop of Brandimarte, a company that In the boutique you will also find the ENTERTAINMENT From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to where Salvatore Ferragamo received his was established in Florence in 1955 and that “Wine Collection”: decanters and tasting Several venues offering food are included in accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses customers and all its creative inspiration. was run by the founder’s grandchildren, glasses made of 925 sterling silver. This metal, this section. These are considered as meeting the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape A unique opportunity to fully immerse places rather than gourmet addresses and thus Stefano and Giada Guscelli. Since 2017 in fact, has organoleptic and antibacterial with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon- yourself in the universe of this gifted explain our decision to list them here rather Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei the brand is owned by Bianca Guscelli, properties, is a heat conductor and enhances innovator who has revolutionised the than under “Dining”. Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 Stefano’s daughter. the aromas within drinks. world of women’s footwear through All details are correct at the time of going to Brandimarte is distinguished for the hand Luisaviaroma new models, volumes and materials. press but several details can change: ask your crafting and sale of silverware for the >> www.brandimarte.com MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early concierge to double-check all information. www.ferragamo.com. 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is table and 925 sterling silver jewellery, in Via del Moro, 92/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury addition to its collection of historical silver T: 055 2693384. Map D3

28 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 29 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. www.albertaferretti.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. c/o Spazio A. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 This “rockstud” metalized calfskin court shoe, Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. with matching studs, bears the unmistakable Map E3 T: 055 212995. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. signature of VALENTINO GARAVANI. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun T: 055 219041. Map E3 T: 055 287761. Map F3 3pm-7pm. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. T: 055 287931. Map E4 Sun 11.30am-7pm. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from BALENCIAGA— T: 055 2670157. Map E4 Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is www.balenciaga.com. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. T: 055 290284. Map F3 hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 MISSONI—www.misson.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, T: 055 9040090. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Map E3 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. BOGGI MILANO— Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. www.boggi.com. DIOR— www.dior.com. Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. T: 055 210856. Map F3 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it MONCLER—www.moncler.com. T: 055 219179. Map E3 T: 055 216227. Map F3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. BORSALINO— TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 www.borsalino.com. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. T: 055 218275. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. T: 055 292050. Map E3 BOTTEGA VENETA— Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4 www.bottegaveneta.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Sun 2pm-7pm. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. T: 055 284735. Map E3 Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— PRADA—www. prada.com. www.brunellocucinelli.com. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Made from soft, patent leather in a column T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. construction, this shoulder bag by GIORGIO ARMANI Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 features an elegant and subtle embossed logo. T: 055 267471 Map E3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily T: 055 293811. Map E4 della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 T: 055 294909. Map F4 Outfits were paraded at the Grand Palais in Paris for the spring-summer 2021 CHANEL collection. The catwalk for the haute-couture show evoked the charm of LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. The iconic model of the BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sports line uses precious a country wedding in the South of France where the protagonist is a very wide skirt Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. materials to create sophisticated combinations. The soft washed chamois combined with a refined bodice, both studded with handmade floral applications. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. upper is combined with semi-gloss calfskin details. T: 055 2398688. Map E4

30 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 31 SHOPPING SHOPPING

San Frediano district that has produced precious over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing used as accessories by famous television of watches from the historical Museum; on the fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original and lacquering work is performed rigorously and film producers. The accessory as a focal ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. by hand following traditional procedures and point, capable of creating a look or dressing disposal to carry out repairs and share his Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni- using natural products and pigmentations. A up any type of garment. A magical blend passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3 huge department is dedicated to fabrics for of contemporary and classical taste. www. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 produced on ancient looms or limited editions, Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. FINE ART or produced on request and based on customers’ Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Abacus designs. Qualified consultancy service provided Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte BINDERY A workshop producing precious on antiques and on the reproduction of period Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Map F4 the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. three display tables; the first floor has two rooms Annamaria Cammilli tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully A Florentine brand of reference in design and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All T: 055 2396039. Map D3 equipped customer care centre, where qualified jewellery, it has been present with its creations the phases are supervised in the workshop: from Rolex technicians are available to look after the Papiro (Il) in shop windows and display cases all over the the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces world for over 30 years and is synonymous with phase of hand stitching, to the application of the 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. objects drawing their inspiration from the a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze. Map F5 Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat address books, photo albums, articles for the brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce VALLI TESSUTI DR. VRANJES desk) in addition to a line of classic leather and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli. district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4 ALTA MODA See page 35. See page 34. accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Antico Setificio Fiorentino Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 T: 055 2608617. Map F4 Sizing great tradition of Renaissance textile art and Pitti Mosaici history, thanks also to its famous warping machine Cassetti 1926 Women,s clothes the world over. A global powerhouse of gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine IT EUR US UK 1786 the workshop has been producing some Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both its Florence store also offers a digitalized of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has 36 32 1 4 purchasing experience: instead of displaying renown and niche brands, as well as its own semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in a studio that develops innovative projects with 38 34 2 6 the garments, they have been replaced with men’s and women’s collection that is only sold to provide coverings for walls, framed items and Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant in-store and online. www.societeanonyme. furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style 40 36 4 8 Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 T: 055 287361. Map F5 42 38 6 10 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of entire made-to-measure residential projects all 44 40 8 12 www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio Damiani Galleria Romanelli over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open 46 42 10 14 9064116. Map F3 District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a precious sculpture artwork for six generations de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 long goldsmithing tradition which it has always 48 44 12 16 Marina Rinaldi Stefano Ricci in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Torchio (Il) of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide Florence”, with the purest male elegance as Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting Women,s shoes workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani range of collections, featuring both contemporary the watchword. These, in short, are the values tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products where sculptors and their students carry out their jewellery. Their collections are realized by master IT EUR US UK and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano with refined materials such as Florentine leather, work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also 36 36 6 3 trade. Work is done by commission on original tradition and admired throughout the world. and accessories for a total look that exudes class second generation, has become a successful devising new artisan articles with contemporary 37 37 6.5 4 sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat international group. From clothing (jackets, materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. 38 38 7.5 5 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente- suits and high-fashion sports items, but also com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo T: 055 290208. Map E4 39 39 8.5 6 Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4 to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior Map G6 Dodo 40 40 9 7 Société Anonyme collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 An independent shop of North-European Leone Cei & Sons 41 41 9.5 8 excellence all over the world, making production by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift conception inspired by the underground Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and DEPARTMENT STORES its strong point. Faithful to the values of the charm pieces, each of which has a particular Men,s clothes of London, Berlin and New York (the name armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique manufacturing tradition and the roots of the Rinascente meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am- is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy models from a rare and abundant archive. The IT EUR US UK territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the 7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art production, entirely made in Florence, is destined 50 46 36 36 Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the for private homes, hotels and private clubs all ideal place to discover the best of fashion, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 accessories, beauty, home and design items. 52 48 38 38 For women, proposals of the best Italian and Fani Gioielli 54 50 40 40 Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years international brands range from the classic to the 56 52 42 42 contemporary and for men from formal to smart ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with 58 54 44 44 luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An 60 56 46 46 In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www. Men,s shoes of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. T: 055 219113. Map F3 fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat IT EUR US UK Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, international customers, are genuinely unique pieces 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 40 40 7.5 6 of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique JEWELLERY & WATCHES 41 41 8 7 it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items Officine Panerai 42 42 8.5 8 and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. Angela Caputi Giuggiù Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique 43 43 9 9 www.angelacaputi.com renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, boasts a unique design and a strong identity that 44 44 10.5 10 original creations made from unusual Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced 45 45 11.5 11 materials such as plastic and resin, combined by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 to create unique objects both in terms of space on the first floor is devoted to special sales 46 46 12 12 colour and shape. Her creations have been and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions

32 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 33 SHOPPING SHOPPING

LEATHER Il Bisonte Dr. Vranjes once occupied by the first Florentine household SHOES Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni- Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came Home fragrances and elegant furnishing item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 Cuoieria Fiorentina about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s accessories made by hand in Florence for industrial and recycled materials and design Aquazzura UGG From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition passion for leather objects. Housed in the more than 30 years. Florence is home to the objects for a contemporary result with a romantic Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by First single-brand boutique in Italy of the of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are laboratories and the headquarters of the touch. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand Californian lifestyle brand specialising in typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, Florentine home fragrance company founded Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. combines a typically European refined aesthetic footwear. A brightly lit space with colours and inimitable products are created with extreme briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, Map F1 sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. themes taking up the decorative elements of care and top-quality natural materials. A vast accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Marioluca Giusti Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic range of leather handbags, travel bags and workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, to the traditional production of ambient design objects for the table and more besides, insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com. traditional models stands alonside new footwear. and for her, offering excellent value for money. highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat Another strong point is the personalization of which has the advantage of improving with age. diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, crystal glass and melamine collections are Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. the products, organised to satisfy the tastes www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong enhanced every year with new models with colour Piazza della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430. and requirements of customers, who can count Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired Salvatore Ferragamo shades ranging from white to black to transparent, Map F3 Michelle Obama among their number. T: 055 215722. Map E4 by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am- 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the are particularly appreciated by important 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • company’s historic workshop since 1938 and STATIONERY international personalities such as the Princes of T: 055 6505091. Off Map PASSION SHOPPING Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Pineider Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe Gianni Chiarini AquaFlor Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am- men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume of paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition Established in the 1990s, this brand is the A perfume shop with the charm of past times, boutiques are characterized by total white walls 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo collections. The brand represents Italian and design are the distinctive features of this expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture with niches where the accessories are exhibited, La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3 quality, contemporary elegance, innovation brand, which is unique worldwide: from the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, of perfumes made using natural and rare raw as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire printing of precious and embossed paper to with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern materials, personalisable through the choice La Ménagère Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della ground floor of the building, inside large spaces articles made of fine leather, to elegant writing and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm- decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing instruments created in the Tuscan workshops, sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor. of around 1500 square metres that includes a 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita Pineider products have endless possibilities of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am- shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with personalisation. www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della 1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located T: 055 2399527. Map D3 the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 2343471. Map H5 right in the city centre, in the space that was Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. T: 055 284656. Map E3

di Santa Maria Novella UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, Tax Free Refund Guide herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers • the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third when the document was issued. and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended month following the date of issue of the invoice, as 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the customs stamp retailer for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief proved by the “ ”; (however, make sure that the shop you’ve aid of modern technologies. The frescoed is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax monumental environments - Sales Room, Green in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to must be electronically transmitted by the national Free” sign in its window). Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer been returned to their former splendour thanks purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open Italian legislation to discover the common system of validation is digitally carried out. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO the passenger from having to return the invoice to travellers. will send a message to the retailer that all the the retailer). However, this procedure only applies The Merchant of Venice requirements are met and, as a consequence, the at major international airports or main border The new boutique is structured into a vast 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle crossings. Most major department stores have range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, and services, and is part of the European Union’s the tax relief. Tax Free Refund offices. for the environment and accessories. The value added tax system. returned to the Italian retailer 8. • the invoice is The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply essences are contained in packaging with From California to Florence 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT within four months after the purchase was made. the payment of a small administrative sum which designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition refund. This refund does not cover the services If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, is directly deducted from the amount of VAT of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store The footwear, clothing and accessories of the UGG® brand, founded in 1978 by an Australian supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the refunded to the traveller. provides a personalized layering service. www. surfer on the coast of California, which has become an icon of style thanks to its leather and 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: fourth month following that of the purchase. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs reversed sheepskin boots, find space in the brand’s first Italian boutique. A brightly lit space, • you are a non-EU resident; 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must within a reasonable period of time, he or she 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat which has been created using a combination of wood, wrought iron and glass furnishings, 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. • the goods purchased are intended for personal or be shown at the customs exit point when leaving should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the T: 055 216559. Map E3 with pastel colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the #UGGLIFE F/W 2019 family use only and are carried in your luggage; EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased aforementioned companies. campaign. Inside, the more traditional models stand alongside new footwear from the Classic • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds items into your check-in luggage, you must go to 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Revolution collection, which reinterprets classicism with a contemporary touch, inspired by A reference point in Florence that offers its 154,94 Euro (VAT included); Customs BEFORE checking in). directly by customs offices. the vitality of San Francisco. Drawing inspiration from Classic Short II, Classic Mini II and Neumel clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return by the most beautiful haute couture collections. models by the brand, the collection includes thirteen renovated models. Stylistic research Source: should include a description of the goods purchased, the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the The store carries a vast assortment of precious, with the use of new materials, decorative elements such as straps and zippers and the addition your personal information as well as the details of customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otello- sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt- of wedges are combined with an in-depth study of comfort, reaching its peak in the new Miwo your passport or any other equivalent document; must be returned within four months from the date english-version/legislation à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and sneakers, with a gritty design and avant-garde Vibram® soles. In addition to footwear, lovers of women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat shopping can also find a selection of outerwear and accessories. www.ugg.com 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 35 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ? Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door China of The Bicester Village Shopping office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Collection® by Value Retail: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours from restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Milan, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience with a Virtual Shopping Service allowing is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, you to shop directly via WhatsApp, phone savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with or email. Over 120 boutiques of the world’s shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year leading fashion and lifestyle brands at round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located reduced prices (up to 70% off ). VALDICHIANA VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is indulge in delicious homemade pasta with and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme fresh Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

36 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 37 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, TUSCAN CUISINE restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 2345957. Map G6 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan T: 055 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu L’Ortone based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted district, opposite the charming street market, the 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com T: 055 234 0804. Map L4 the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its Marione Trattoria quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary book in advance, because there is usually a long A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. queue of people waiting outside. €€. Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this Opera Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5

Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of

FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no

PHOTO © fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo.com/ristorante. Via Andrea del One restaurant, three souls Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3 Da Burde High-quality ingredients from small Tuscan farms and an elegant, welcoming environment make The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and © OKUNIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Foody Farm the ideal place for an appetising break at any time of day. By Giulia Minero PH livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that on’t let yourself be deceived by the local ingredients from carefully selected small of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich antique ceilings or the vintage tables, Tuscan farms. Inside the restaurant three souls in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Genuine food for all tastes Dbecause Foody Farm’s proposals coexist, which are perfect to respond to guests’ Piedmontese wines but also French, including some could not be more innovative. This restaurant, requirements at any time of day. BreakFarm, fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. at the Central Market Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map a few yards from the Ponte Vecchio, with its for example, is available every day from 7am to Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh modern furnishings, its petrol blue coloured 10.30am and envisages an innovative format IO Osteria Personale ADVERTORIALpasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still velvet seats, mosaics and wrought iron details, based on the international buffet breakfast fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, makes the rediscovery of Tuscan raw materials, with sweet and savoury food, while Farmology surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic combined to bring innovative recipes to reinterprets the classic concept of aperitifs modern tavern that has a preference for the products covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the life, its distinctive feature. Then the absence or after dinner drinks proposing cocktails of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial of a traditional dining approach envisaging of balanced ingredients mixed in glass, then way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring hors d’oeuvres, first and main courses, makes served in bottles at temperatures that differ such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and the restaurant’s proposals dynamic and according to the preparation. seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact highly personalisable. The specialities range Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using from street food to tartares, as well as salads, >> Lungarno Corsini, 2A La Ménagère only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting home-made pasta, cheeses and meats, with T: 055 242327. Map E4 A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it a selection of vegetarian offers, all based on www.foodyfarm.it combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

38 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 39 DINING DINING

restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Michelin-starred restaurants background of the most important operas, you can Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar Buca Mario deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta (although you can still request a private room for Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and Osteria Badalì up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, of the past, all about long cooking times and www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts T: 055 214179. Map D3 and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for found on the second-hand book stalls and based vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Buca Poldo vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte bread using flour from ancient grains. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, Ora d ’Aria Touch Bistrò Toscano fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the www.oradariaristorante.com of the hotelier institute have made their dream a courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that Bottega del Buon Caffè We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that Map F4 impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. recipes but tending towards a more creative but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, Enoteca Pinchiorri Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon Tuscani 3 (I) it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red venue and countless notables from Florence and enotecapinchiorri.it labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient How do you manage to be honoured with three based one is unmissable) or à la carte. portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In La Bottega del Buon Caffè labels and a highly select menu of beers. Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the Your home Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as winning combination of prime quality raw materials, www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Il Palagio Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or restaurant the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the Zero food miles products gathered from the organic Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Dedicated to those who want to territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in www.ilpalagioristorante.it http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F4 to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated T: 055 285356. Map F4 experience the real regional culinary includes highly prized labels, along with others that farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, tradition, the typical products of the are little known but equally interesting. Then we can the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that territory and recipes handed down add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its Erez Ohayon proposes a cuisine based on the use of touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what through the generations of Italian desserts are a delight for the senses. seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the families. The “Cesarine” network past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat - spread out over 140 Italian cities balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Santa Elisabetta menus include gems such as amberjack served in offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw with over 1000 amateur chefs - has Piazza Santa Elisabetta, 3. T: 055 27370 three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made materials and colours, at times venturing far beyond at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken become established over recent years www.ristorantesantaelisabetta.it cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme. the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast In the heart of the historical centre of Florence, a wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, with this very aim: to offer a complete also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. unique location, the Byzantine Pagliazza Tower: built Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. gastronomic experience by opening T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 around 541-544 AD, today it is part of the register of Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 served by the glass. T: 055 2342864. Map H6 up the doors of home with lunches and historical Florentine buildings. Santa Elisabetta is on www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura dinners, personalised show cooking, the first floor of the tower, with a particular circular Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative CANTINE PIZZA shape, in an intimate atmosphere that only houses liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates cooking competitions, visits to markets seven tables. Its menu respects nature and the seasons. two things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man or local producers or catering in Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan The Chef chooses to experiment with minimalism, on cuisine. Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime exclusive locations. Having lunch with dishes with a single product that is the protagonist and Lopez Kondo. The menu is an explosive blend of crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- an Italian family, with dishes prepared two or three others that act as a support. Each dish is flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient and offers Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional characterized by the contrasts between acidity and cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special following the typical traditions of the sweetness, cooked and raw, sapidity and lightness. classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. local cuisine, tasting the wines of the also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with territory, is a truly unique experience! Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. In a very dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 And from this year live cooking courses San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 intimate setting, the bistro plays around the tones bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just Pizzaiuolo (Il) www.borgosanjacopo.com of green and pistachio and can welcome up t o 35 a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, and virtual appointments are available Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture diners indoors. 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 on the cesarine.com website, in both one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo Italian and English, so you can continue SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Borgo San Jacopo This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. to learn family recipes and all the case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 Ribollita calssica..e croccante out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or www.laleggendadeifrati.it secrets of traditional cuisine. PHOTO © Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts www.cesarine.com history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3

40 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 41 DINING DINING

Florentine food terms Historic cellars for foodies

PAPPA COL POMODORO Florence’s cantine, where in the past the well to do kept their wine, salumi On the face of it this is just another variant of and meats, haven’t lost their vocation as custodians of fine taste. The bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, majority, with dining rooms located beneath street level, are still called garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt “buca”, although some have become proper restaurants, with menus (and and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is. prices) more suited to international visitors, while others still offer simple, Everyone loves this tasty, genuine dish, including authentic Florentine home cooking. the kids. So much so there’s even a popular (C.Z.) children’s song all about it.

RIBOLLITA classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca Another delicious country dish typical of Florence alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans www.bucamario.com (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r T: 055 214179. means boiled several times. The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used Buca Poldo - A few yards from Piazza della to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves Buca San Giovanni a number of days, each time tastier than before. characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as SCHIACCIATA well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Fiaschetteria Nuvoli - Just a few steps from This simple focaccia baked in a wood oven Although the majority of the courses are meat Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination and dressed with olive oil and salt is a great based, some fish dishes are also available. The for anyone who has ever wondered what favourite with Florentines, who eat it on its own kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in or stuffed with salumi and cheeses, either as a watch the chefs at work. the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until quick lunch or substantial snack. Again, like many Buca Mario www.bucapoldo.com evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities traditional Florentine recipes, it is based on a Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/R. T: 055.239.6578. such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, horror of wasting any left over bread dough. In tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities Florence you’ll find it at any baker’s, but of course Buca San Giovanni ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so everyone has their own preference: soft and well Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains. niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby wines, also available for aperitifs. Just try it to decide which is your favourite! Buca Lapi decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616. your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli Antica Mescita San Niccolò - Ever wanted to eat secret initiation venue and countless notables Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo - A few yards from Ribollita lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a Ponte Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of inside the walls of a 13th century palace, is the also used to serve as a customs post for wine classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina restaurant Buca dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in dishes and menus that vary depending on the Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other season testify to the quality of the ingredients. BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA CIBREO excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini Don’t miss the ribollita, the maltagliati (flat, This is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical also reflects the season and the local territory, all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn mushrooms cuisine. The succulent steak is obtained from a main course of Florentine “poor cuisine” with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, linguine al pesto. and taglierini with fresh spring peas. specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, www.bucasangiovanni.it www.bucadellorafo.com the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone lemon juice and onion. Even though presented to name just a few. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Via dei Girolami, 28/r. T: 055 213619. in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, www.osteriasanniccolo.it temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly it is famous for having been one of the favourite Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it Buca Lapi - Buca Lapi is one of Florence’s oldest outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, seems she was so fond of it that it gave her eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of but not cooked through. It should also be at least indigestion a number of times. the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and traces of over a century of history thanks to the 1.5 kgs. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by LAMPREDOTTO meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. weight: an average price to be sure of getting the This is Florentine street food par excellence. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild CANTUCCI as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and boar with polenta. The bill won’t be particularly This is one of the best-known cake recipes most commonly served in a panino soaked easy on the pocket, especially if you go for the in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond in the broth or topped with the local parsley- steak, but as we know quality doesn’t come cheap. biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. baked dough while still hot. The dough is made dish, it is still very popular in Florence today with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known Buca Mario - For years ordinary folk have rubbed SHUTTERSTOCK.COM not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with shoulders with famous names beneath the bare their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still PHOTO © Buca Poldo Buca dell’Orafo in any bakery or local foods shop. glass of wine. request a private room for up to ten people in

42 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 43 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

Abbazia Novecella control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family therefore very much present. of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in the winemakers proceed with the subsequent alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry passage of ageing, which takes place, at their fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be wood. many other perfumes and aromas to discover. Depending on the white grape variety used, the As regards the fourth taste examination, the period for which the skins are retained and the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long ageing method adopted, wines are obtained and persistent, with all the perceived aromas. with colour tones ranging from ancient gold There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even made” product from one “made less well” and with a certain opalescence, because they are mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER not normally clarified and filtered and are, and elegant wine. Certified Wine Expert and Owner in any case, also virtually sulphite-free. of Milano Wine Affair. Board member FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD of FISAR Milan Delegation. A HARMONY OF PERFUMES The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption If this is your first time tasting a macerated white 1990s he went against convention, overturning for many years now. With a passion for wine wine, your nose and palate will be surprised all the concepts of winemaking of that time. in her blood, she has found her vocation by the flavours and aromas. We are not During a stay in California, he encountered the in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years presence of uniform, characterless wines on Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to the market. He therefore decided to change approaching both companies and visitors to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Milan, creating multisensory experiences in hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are Georgia. There he found the right inspiration the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and, returning to his winemaking estate in teambuilding, entertainment and travel. and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus. vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This s early as 5000/6000 years ago in More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively combination of ancient practices and modern the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) experimentation made him famous all over the Wines were produced in buried and mineral salts more present, which as a whole world. He was then joined by a close circle of amphorae. This technique was increase the body of the wine. local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule also used in the past in Europe, But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived and others. but after the two world wars by your habits: if you do not “find” certain A short documentary tells the story of Orange it was completely forgotten. It was only at habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the theA start of the 1990s when a small group of these wines negatively solely because they origins of that wave that has now spread all experienced winemakers from Friuli revived diverge from traditional tastes. over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of A thousand it by experimenting with the ancient technique What can you expect then? On the nose you will an Orange Taste”. combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels. Gravner Today there are wine-growers all over the world shades of orange devoted to this outstanding product. HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE Latest trend or age-old recipe? AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? Loved, criticised and the object of The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense debate among experts, Orange “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified Wines are wines from the ancient as though it were red wine: so the grapes are tradition, re-evaluated through not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the history as superior products. juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine. Fermentation usually takes place thanks to Gravner indigenous yeasts and without temperature

44 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 45 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

• Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% AUTHOR'S Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle TIPSHere is a selection of excellent www.damijanpodversic.it macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration • Skerk on the skins as the thread running Grape variety: Vitovska 100% through them, but with very variable Maceration on skins: on average, times and methods, which may be 10 days in wooden vats differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, amphora, cement or wood. then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Angiolino Maule Skerk AngiolinoVeneto Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% AbbaziaAlto-Adige di Novacella “Hora” Maceration: 2-3 days Tre Monti Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks Maceration on skins: for 10 days www.angiolinomaule.com Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it Emilia-

TreRom Monti “Vitalba”agna DettoriSardinia “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Albana 100% Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration: 95 days Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 10 months in Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks Georgian amphorae (kvevri) and 18 months in barriques www.tremonti.it www.tenutedettori.it

DonLazio Chisciotte FrankSicily Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Fiano 100% Damijan Podversic Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Maceration: 8-15 days Carricante 50% Ageing: 8 months in steel Maceration on skins: for 4 days www.ildonchisciotte.net Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Do you like this subject? If Giulia you’re in Milan, would you like • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” to get to know Italian wine Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% better, having fun at the same Maceration on skins: long maceration time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller in buried Georgian amphorae organises wine-tastings, Ageing: 5 months in amphora, wine games and tours in the then 6 years in large oak casks surrounding area. www.gravner.it Info and contacts: [email protected] – www.milanowineaffair.com

Don Chisciotte

46 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 47 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. APERITIVI aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Chiaroscuro Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. Foody Farm Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, T: 055 286258. Map F5 “The right food from the right places” is the motto Florentines today are attracted by the original and of this little restaurant where the quality and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs Three Sixty traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro From May to September the Grand Hotel original and genuine light lunch, with the option touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am Easy living www.grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. (little beach), its location is quite singular: this T: 055 242327. Map H5 strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river- bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, BRUNCH Odeon Bistrot from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif Ditta Artigianale Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened T: 055 2341112. Map I6 wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4 The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. Procacci surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4

Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo. Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Cheers to the new Paszkowski Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in Since 1846, quality and tradition have been combined at the Caffè Concerto Paszkovski, an unmissable a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. destination for breakfast, a snack or an aperitif with an authentically Florentine spirit. By Giulia Minero Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4 Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue irst inaugurated with the name Caffè is the ideal place to treat yourself to a coffee >> Piazza della Repubblica, 35/R that combines modern furnishings and frescoed Centrale, given its position in the heart prepared respecting the best Italian tradition, T: 055 210236. Map F3. caffepaszkowski.it ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always Solve the mystery and save Fof Piazza della Repubblica, the Caffè accompanied by a selection of home-made attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Concerto Paszkovski took on its current sweet and savoury pastry delights. The ritual of Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 the city of Florence! “The Medici Game. Murder at Pitti Palace”, is the first videogame devoted to the famous identity in 1903, when the Società Toscana C. the aperitif takes place every day in the cocktail Rooftop Bar La Terrazza grand ducal dynasty. Specially created for the Uffizi Galleries, the game is structured Paszkowski per la Fabbricazione e la Vendita bar, with drinks ranging from the great classics to Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio as an investigative adventure where the player, in the guise of young scholar Caterina, di Birra purchased it, to transform it into a café signature cocktails, together with a selection of furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of moves through the richly furnished rooms of the palace, tackling dangerous adversaries concerto and then a literary café. From that beers. The classic dishes of the tradition and the the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. and solving countless riddles concealed within the masterpieces of its museums, while moment on, the venue welcomed high-profile proposals that have contributed to the history com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 the secrets of the legendary family are revealed before her eyes. The plot is dotted figures of the calibre of D’Annunzio, Montale, of the café, with the addition of contemporary Se·Sto on Arno with historical-artistic insights into the protagonists of the events of the Medici, while Saba and Pratolini. A further demonstration offerings, become the protagonists of the The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs the locations have been faithfully reconstructed based on a meticulous photographic of its historical value arrived in 1991, when it Restaurant under the skilful guidance of chef every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large campaign intended to give the players every detail of the fascinating aura of the grand became one of the Locali Storici d’Italia. Today, Fabio Barbaglini. Here particular attention is terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels ducal palace and the Boboli Gardens. Download from Google Play and AppStore (€2.29) - in its sophisticated rooms, which have recently reserved for the selecting of high-quality raw of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 7 languages (Italian, English, Spanish, Russian, Portuguese, Chinese and Japanese). undergone a conservative restoration, it hosts a materials, prepared with cooking processes and www.themedicigame.com Café with an attached tea room, a cocktail bar methods that bring out their flavour without Signorvino and a restaurant. The first, today, as yesterday, altering their properties. This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines

48 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 49 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

an institution, and not only in Florence, especially Teatro Verdi politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1 selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food is located in Florence, in the historic district of Visarno Arena shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 T: 055 212320. Map H4 for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous Teatro del Sale Teatro Goldoni has already hosted, among others, concerts by and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the Bagni San Filippo relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly four orders, the theatre experienced a period two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, Maria Novella). Off Map Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), historical design by Italian director and actor Luca WELLNESS Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Bené SPA sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona T: 055 2001492. Map I3 Teatro del Maggio ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside to the main hotel complex by an underground hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful CONCERT VENUES the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private Unlike the well-being and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on & THEATRES visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo Teatro Comunale and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible concerts and operas are performed in a Chapman; and the body range from the historic largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www.villacora. 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating Off Map for around 1800, but also part of the complex it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map originating on Mount Amiata. a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered Stazione Leopolda Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & by a magical garden with views of Mount is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can Firenze Number Nine Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway hold a little under 600 spectators. The name This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Amiata. station: it was decommissioned, and today has “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. become a sought-after venue for meetings, the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” conferences and various events. A versatile, at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of multifunctional space, it has its name associated ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. to the second half of the 19th century. treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the the event that launched the career of Florentine T: 055 27791. Map B2 known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal closed on Tuesdays). www.firenzenumbernine.com. steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3 Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small Four Seasons SPA Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- for teens and children also available. The super- mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre Terme di Petriolo of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment The thermal baths are sited on a natural zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to course of the River Farma. The waters, rich outside guests as the beauty centre annex every in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. Il Villino SPA termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ THE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO is a unique spa, studded with original details, hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality luxury materials, and hand-made decorations Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range Bagno Vignoni operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno

C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map PHOTOS ©SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

50 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 51 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. Amid faith, art and history it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 Universally recognised as one of the locations symbolising the city, consecrated in 1059 in honour of its patron, Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of Saint John, the Baptistery of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in Florence. By Giulia Minero civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman ocated opposite the complex of Santa The exterior of the Baptistery, on the other Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery owes part hand, entirely covered in slabs of white the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the LUCY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of its renown to its particular octagonal marble from Carrara and green marble from Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and L PH © plan structure - typical of the baptisteries Prato, is famous for its three bronze doors, Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent of antiquity - surmounted by a pyramidal of immense historical and artistic value. The in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a dome consisting of eight segments, the South Door, by Andrea Pisano, dating back series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the richly decorated interior of which bears the to 1330, illustrates the life of Saint John the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno signatures of great Renaissance artists of the Baptist in 28 inlaid panels, the North Door, David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of calibre of Cimabue and Coppo di Marcovaldo. by Lorenzo Ghiberti, imagines the life and copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Among the masterpieces contained in it, passion of Christ through 20 panels, and with dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious in addition to the funerary monument in a further eight, the four evangelists and four Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; memory of the “Antipope” John XXIII created “fathers of the church”, while the East Door, Gate of Paradise, detail. Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest by Michelozzo and Donatello, the precious located opposite the Cathedral and known by of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one gilded mosaics of the dome representing the epithet conferred on it by Michelangelo, important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its the Angelic Hierarchies and Universal of “Porta del Paradiso” (Gate of Paradise), >> Battistero di San Giovanni imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. Judgement stand out, dominated by the consists of ten gilded panels representing Piazza San Giovanni. Map F2 its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 great figure of Christ the Judge. scenes from the Old Testament. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

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Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous experienced that profound artistic agitation that has 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed T: 055 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). the Firenzecard circuit or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. T: 055 2342427. Map G6 • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of Map E6 degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, Forte di Belvedere for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Cappella Brancacci fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria Museo di Santa Maria Novella A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Galleria degli Uffizi Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book floors of the large building erected between 1560 and Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the T: 055 210030. Map D5 (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri the most famous museums in the world on account such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, T: 055 2388606. Map F4 San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in Cappelle Medicee collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in museum, but their history is closely associated with Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and MUSEUMS & the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become EXHIBITION SITES Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being centre that hosts international level exhibitions, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli The Gallery is famous worldwide for its outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 paintings (from Middle Ages to the Modern period). The paintings from the 14th century garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket and Renaissance period include some absolute masterpieces as the “Primavera” by Sandro dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Botticelli (see photo), a celebration of love, peace and prosperity. www.uffizi.it to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6

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Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

56 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2021 www.whereitalia.com 57 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

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VIA ANDREA COSTA A COSTA VIA ANDRE

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I V I A C A R L O D E L G R E C O Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

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VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’AP

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VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

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VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

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DI SADI H

V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L Rusciano V. G. CAPONSACCHI PIAZZA L

Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

G I

Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

I AN GN OI T D. . VL

VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

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AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

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VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

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SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

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VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

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