38 Nature Reserves and a National Park in Västernorrland County Text and Cover Torbjörn Engberg, Västernorrland County Administrative Board

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38 nature reserves and a national park in Västernorrland County Text and cover Torbjörn Engberg, Västernorrland County Administrative Board.

Graphic design Fryklunds

Maps Västernorrland County Administrative Board © Bakgrundskartor Lantmäteriet, ref 106-2004/188. Maps used: Cadastral map, Terrain map, Road map and Key map.

Edition 2nd edition 8,000 copies

Distributed by Västernorrland County Administrative Board, January 2011.

Illustrations p 45 and p 53: Björn Cederberg (bumble bees), Anna Erlandsson/Naturriddarna (Common Twayblade, Common Snipe, Tufted Duck, Bar-tailed Godwit), Alf Forsblom/Järvsöbild (Teesdale Violet, Euphrasia Rostkoviana ssp. Fennica, Fragrant Orchid, Eurasian Wigeon, Common Greenshank), Jonas Lundin (Pyramidal Bugle, Spotted Cat’s Ear, Catsfoot, Field Gentian).

Photo L-left, R-right, T-top, B-bottom, C-centre Oskar Norrgrann p 6, 9L, 9C, 10, 17L, 31C, 35L, 41L, 43C, 47L, 47C, 51C, 67TL, 72, Torbjörn Engberg p 7L, 15L, 15R, 17C, 19C, 19R, 20, 26, 27L, 27C, 27R, 32, 33L, 33C, 33R, 42, 43L, 43R, 44, 46, 56, 57C, 58, 59L, 59C, 59R, 64, 67BR, 69B, 71BR, 76TR, 76BR, 82, 83R, 88, 91R, County Administrative Board p 7C, 25RC, 25BC, 75L, Frans Olofsson p 7R, 50, John Granbo p 8, 25TR, 40, 41C, 41R, 48, 49L, 49R, 54, 55L, 55C, 61L, 65T, 65B, 67BL, 68, 69T, 71TR, 81CR, 81BL, 86, 87L, Anna-Karin Östlund p 11L, 71BC, 90, 91L, 91C, Lars-Ola Norén p 11C, Lennart Vessberg p 11R, Owe Egon Grandics p 12, 13L, 13R, Marie- Louise Engberg p 14, Göran Nordin p 15C, Owe Källström p 16, 30, 31L, 34, 74, 75R, 89L, 89R, Kristina Höj-Larsen p 17R, Metria p 18, Milly Lundstedt p 19L, 29BL, 29BC, 81CC, 81BC, Jonas Salmonsson p 21L, 22, 23, 31R, 35R, 36, 37, 67TL, 71TL, 71BL, 76L, 78, 79T, 79B, 81TC, 81TR, 83L, 84, Per Sander p 21R, 57R, Åsa Hansson p 25TL, Kerstin Wörler p 25BL, Pernilla Hansson p 25BR, Daniel Flordal p 28, Annika Carlsson p 29BR, 49C, Jan Henriksson p 38, Sofia Lund p 39L, Andreas Wedman p 39R, Pekka Bader p 47R, 60, 73C, 73R, Sara Hallén p 51L, Kristin Lindström p 51R, Heimo Fürst p 52, Helena Paulsson p 57L, Andreas Garpebring p 61R, 75C, Andreas Karlberg p 62, 63L, 63C, Mia Bisther p 63R, Tomas Rydkvist p 67CL, Hans Wikman p 67 CR, Thomas Birkö p 73L, Johan Uebel p 81TL, 81BR, Bernt Ove Viklund p 85, Lotta Nygård p 87R

Print GTC Print AB. You now hold a guide to 39 unique experiences of the natural world, opening the door to all manner of adventure. Peaceful, easily accessible, exciting, challenging… They are united by one thing – they are all protected areas, of which 38 are natural reserves and one is a national park.

The developers of this guidebook work for the Department for Nature and the Environment for the Västernorrland County Administrative Board. The idea behind our nature conservation work is to preserve the county’s natural and cultural landscape and its bio-diversity. We achieve this partly by creating nature reserves. In this way, we can save part of our common natural and cultural heritage for future generations. We are also responsible for the care and management of the nature reserves and the county’s only national park, Skuleskogen.

Today there are close to 150 nature reserves in the county, and every year we decide on a handful of new ones. An area’s protected status does not mean that it is closed for visitors. On the contrary, in many of the nature reserves, one of the more important reasons for its protection is to increase accessibility for the public.

Each nature reserve is unique and has specific rules for preservation of the nature conservation value. The right of public access is sometimes limited, but it can also be extended. The purpose of the reserve deter- mines the rules that have been established. Information on the county’s common nature reserves can be found on the County Administrative Board’s website, www.lansstyrelsen.se/vasternorrland.

Pack your rucksack, fill your picnic basket and head off on a voyage of discovery in the county’s nature reserves! Our hope is that this guidebook will inspire young and old alike to find adventure! Legend

Nature reserve/ Barbecue hut Quay/Water taxi National park

Long-distance footpath/ Outlook Hostel trail

Snowmobile track Caravan parking Funicular railway

Ski track Drinking water Cabin

Food service Burnt forest Lookout tower establishment

Shelter with stone barbe- Information board Sauna cue

Parking Ski track WC

Disability access Picnic area Geological site of interest

Picnic area Dry Privy Cafe with stone barbecue

Bathing area Fishing grounds Provisions

Guest harbour Camping Cottage with stove Contents

Area Municipality Page Brånsån • Härnösand 6 Smitingen • Härnösand 8 Västanåfallet • Härnösand 10 Högbonden • Kramfors 12 Högklinten • Kramfors 14 Icktjärnsberget • Kramfors 16 Norrfällsviken • Kramfors 18 Rotsidan • Kramfors 20 Skuleberget • Kramfors 22 Storön • Kramfors 26 Älgberget-Björnberget • Kramfors 28 Gideåbergsmyrarna • Sollefteå 30 Granvågsniporna • Sollefteå 32 Långvattnet • Sollefteå 34 Nipsippan i Nässjö By • Sollefteå 36 Oringsjö/Mo-Långsjön • Sollefteå 38 Brämön • Sundsvall 40 Gudmundstjärn • Sundsvall 42 Högänge • Sundsvall 44 Navarån • Sundsvall 46 Rigåsen • Sundsvall 48 Salen • Sundsvall 50 Stornäset • Sundsvall 52 Sundsjöåsen • Sundsvall 54 Indalsälvens delta • Timrå 56 Åstön • Timrå 58 Björntjärn • Ånge 60 Haverö strömmar • Ånge 62 Helvetesbrännan • Ånge 64 Jämtgaveln • Ånge 68 Balesudden • Örnsköldsvik 72 Kålhuvudet • Örnsköldsvik 74 Skallbergsgrottorna • Örnsköldsvik 76 Skuleskogen • Örnsköldsvik 78 Stockholmsgata • Örnsköldsvik 82 Trolltjärn • Örnsköldsvik 84 Trysunda • Örnsköldsvik 86 Vändåtberget • Örnsköldsvik 88 Västanåhöjden • Örnsköldsvik 90 Översiktskartor 92-101 municipality h ä r n ö s a n d

Brånsån

With its large presence of freshwater pearl Directions mussels, European crayfish and a natural The nature reserve lies approximately strain of brown trout, Brånsån is one of our 15 kilometres west of Härnösand. most protection-worthy watercourses. The easiest way from Härnösand is to pass Stigsjö church, continue up If you take the path from the parking area, the hill and turn left at the next cross- road. Then continue for almost three you will experience the most beautiful parts kilometres until you reach the parking of the nature reserve where the river flows area by the river. through a mature spruce forest. Around 300 The nature reserve was established metres downstream is a point where fresh- 2006 water pearl mussels can be observed. Bearing Area [hectares] in mind that life in the river is reliant on a 48

very high water quality, we have strived to For a general map of the area, ensure that no ditches run directly into the see pages 96-97. river. A number of smaller sedimentation pools have been built with the hope that these will stop silt and nutrients from the agricul- tural land and forest that surround the nature reserve.

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Points of interest, Brånsån

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Here we find one of the four In a beautiful glade, just a few A little further along the trail sedimentation basins. The idea paces from the road, you will is a marked place where you is that the water, which flows find a picnic area with tables can easily walk down to the from the reserve’s surround- and benches alongside the river and observe the fresh- ings via the dike, will be slowed river. There is also find an infor- water pearl mussels. and that fine sediment and mation board which provides The mussels in the picture nutrients will fall to the basin’s more information about the could be 100-150 years old. bed, preventing them from reserve and its inhabitants. entering the river.

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Smitingen Many say that Smitingen is the Norrland Directions coast’s most beautiful seaside resort. It is Smitingen is signposted from the E4 home to a 300-metre beach with soft, white in central Härnösand. Follow the road sand and a view of the pure horizon, beauti- in the direction of Specksta and Gånsvik. Just before Gånsvikshamn, fully framed by rocky shores and barren turn off right towards Smitingen mountains. nature reserve.

In the autumn, after the tourist invasion of The nature reserve was established 1988 the summer months, the beach is deserted and the foaming waves formed in the Gulf of Area [hectares] Bothnia are yours alone to enjoy. In the winter- 275 time the bay lies still, sometimes covered with For a general map of the area, beautiful ice formations. The nature reserve see pages 96-97.. also offers exciting excursions. Take a walk around Lake Klubbsjön or discover caves, giant’s kettles and other peculiarities which the sea with all of its power has carved out of the solid rock. From the top of Klubberget mountain, the vista stretches from Högbonden in the north to Brämön in the south. 8 1

Points of interest, Smitingen

North of the bay the “cave path” takes you to some of Sweden’s most beautiful tunnel caves. There are also caves to be found along the “geology path,” which leads 1 south to the potho- Should it prove too cold to les and remarkable bathe in the sea, you can walk sea-stacks with sha- over to Lake Klubbsjön where pes which fire the the water is a few degrees imagination. The warmer and there are designat- longer walking loop ed picnic areas with stone bar- takes you down to becues. The path to the lake the rocky shores, has been adapted for prams past untouched and wheelchairs. shingles. 2

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Västanåfallet

The Eksjöån River throws itself down the Directions steep slopes of Mjällån valley to form the Västanåfallet nature reserve is situat- beautiful Västanå waterfall. The total drop ed in Viksjö along road 331, approxi- is more than 90 metres. If you want to expe- mately thirty-five kilometres west of Härnösand and fifty kilometres north rience it at its most spectacular, come during of Sundsvall. The reserve is sign- the high waters of spring and early summer. posted from road 331. The road to the parking area is cleared of snow during A well-trodden path leads up the side of the the winter. waterfall. It crosses the river near the rapids’ The nature reserve was established neck, where the water gives a sense of fore- 1978 boding before crashing down to the valley Area [hectares] bottom. The surroundings are characterized 7 by the remains of early industry which, in the late 1700s and early 1800s, saw the exploita- For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95. tion of the water source for the manufacturing of various iron products. The old lodge is home to exhibitions about the district’s natural and cultural history. The reserve is also host to popular events such as flottarfesten and the annual folk music festival.

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Points of interest, Västanåfallet

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The exhibitions in the lodge In order to facilitate log driv- The photo shows the old are open during the summer ing, an iron channel was built smithy which was constructed months and by arrangement by the steep falls in the early in the 1700s – the oldest build- for the rest of the year. Free 1900s. It was used up until the ing from the old industry which entry. Cafe on site. More infor- mid-1950s and is now some- is still standing. The wooden mation at: times used during the structure to the right of the www.vastanafallet.se. Flottarfesten where, just like smithy is a reconstruction of the old days, people send logs the water channel which pre- flying down the channel. viously stood there.

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Högbonden

A trip out to Högbonden will release you Directions from daily stress and the unrest of civiliza- You can get to Höglosmen and Furan tion. Find your own rock with a wide view yourself by boat or kayak. At Hög- over the Gulf of Bothnia and take a moment bonden, however, it is difficult to get to relax, surrounded only by the sound of ashore. Fortunately a ferry service is available! During the summer, the the sea, the whispering wind and untouched service is run twice daily from Bön- nature. hamn and Barsta, which are well sign- posted from Nordingrå. For any other If you’re in the mood for adventure, you can times, the service must be booked in advance. embark on exciting voyages of discovery to the island’s sheer cliffs, tremendous ravines and Go to www.hogbonden.se for more caves crafted in the rock by the sea. The light- information. house in Högbonden was lit in October 1909 The nature reserve was established and is the east coast’s highest situated light- 1987 house; the light is at a height of 75 metres Area [hectares] above sea level. The island’s settlement was 335 home to 21 people at most. Once the lighthouse was automated, the island lay deserted For a general map of the area, see pages 96-97. for 25 years, until the opening in 1988 of what is now one of Sweden’s most renowned hostels.

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Points of interest, Högbonden

3 The reserve also covers the islands Höglosmen and Furan. Twenty or so foundations, the ancient remains of simple huts, are witness to the fishing and sealing which has taken place here, perhaps as far back as the Iron Age. The foundations consist of banks 1 2 of stone several metres in dia- meter. When these huts were Högbonden’s hostel has 28 During spring and autumn used, they either had some beds and is open from May to the ferry service runs between sort of roof structure or sails October. As a guest, you have Barsta and Högbonden, a jour- were set up as roof. On Hög- the possibility to buy meals on ney of approximately 15 minu- losmen you can even see the the island. During the summer, tes. During the summer months remnants of a fishing village the cafe offers lunches and the boat also docks in the port with a chapel that was abando- freshly baked bread. More of Bönhamn and makes addi- ned in the 1700s. There are still information on opening times, tional trips, making it possible ditches here that date back to booking, etc. can be found on to visit the island for a day wit- when the lighthouse keepers www.hogbondon.se. hout having to stay the night. grew potatoes.

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Högklinten Högklinten nature reserve is a lovely place Directions to see and a great spot for discovering the Högklintens nature reserve is located World Heritage site Höga Kusten – the west of Mjällom, approximately 10 High Coast – where you have a view that kilometres northeast of Nordingrå. If you arrive from this direction, turn left goes on for miles: from Örnsköldsvik in the a kilometre ahead of the store and north to Härnösand in the south. petrol station in the centre of Mjällom. After 400 metres on the gravel track, There is easily accessible flat rock made from make another left. Another kilometre and a half ahead there is a sandpit the beautiful Nordingrå granite for you to ex- which also serves as a parking area. plore, perhaps by entering one of the Archean rock caves located on the northern slope of the The nature reserve was established 2008 mountain. When the ice sheet melted approximately 10,000 years ago, Högklinten was com- Area [hectares] pletely immersed in water. As the post-glacial 79 land elevation raised the mountain to its cur- For a general map of the area, rent 281 metres above sea level, the slopes were see pages 96-97. laid bare to the waves, the effects of which are illustrated by the exposed bedrock and the magnificent cobble field. The antenna at the summit of Högklinten stands 106 metres tall.

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Points of interest, Högklinten

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Cobble field The photo depicts Drakgrottan (Dragon Cave) On the mountain you will find what is commonly regarded as In the steep northern slope of crooked pine trees that are the world’s highest situated the mountain lie tens of caves. hundreds of years old. Around cobble field – almost 260 met- The most easily accessible one 1900 some of these decay- res above sea level. It was for- is “Drakgrottan” shown in the resistant trees were felled and med over 9,000 years ago by above photo. You can reach it sold to Holland as railroad ties. the Yoldia Sea – predecessor by following a path originating The remaining trees function as of the Baltic Sea. at the summit of Högklinten. important living environments for beetles, among others.

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Icktjärnsberget No more than a short walk west of Kramfors Directions centre, you will find the Icktjärn nature There are signs towards the nature reserve. It is an area of almost three square reserve from road 90, just south of kilometres containing ancient coniferous Kramfors centre. You can either park by Icktjärn Lake or drive another kilo- forests that have managed to escape modern metre to the west, where you will forestry. find a path leading towards Jättesta- bodarna. The road to Icktjärn Lake is Since these forests have remained basically un- cleared of snow in the winter. touched, they now provide a habitat for many The nature reserve was established plants and animals that cannot cope in the 2003 managed forests surrounding the reserve. Ick- Area [hectares] tjärn is also a popular fishing lake, beautifully 287 framed by the surrounding mountain slopes. There is a pretty path leading through the For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95. ancient forest from the lake to Jättestabodarna. These were used as seasonal mountain holdings until the 1930s. During the winter, you can make your way through the forest using the ski tracks provided by Kramforsalliansen that run on the western side of Icktjärn Lake.

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Points of interest, Icktjärnsberget

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Icktjärn Lake has fish planted Jättestabodarna is a mounting Kramforsalliansen’s ski tracks, in it every year - mostly rainbow holding where the Jättesta which pass through the reserve, trout but also some char (see villagers would bring their cattle start at the ski station at Lat- photo). By the lake there is a to graze in the summer. At this berget. As long as there is jetty and toilet facilities with holding they would use the milk snow, the tracks are excellently provisions for the disabled. You to make butter, cheese and groomed for both skate and must buy a fishing licence to be whey. There would have been classic skiing. allowed to fish in the reserve, as many as five hearths in the more information available at holding. www.fiske.vasternorrland.se.

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Norrfällsviken The nature surrounding Norrfällsviken is Directions barren and characterized by rock and stone. The reserve lies at the tip of the But it also presents the High Coast’s typical Mjällom peninsula. Coming from richness of colours with its pink cliffs of Nordingrå you follow the signs for Norrfällsviken. Once there, you drive Nordingrå granite, the blue tones of the sea through the camping to get to the and far-off mountains, the dark green coni- parking area marked on the map fers and the yellow-green map lichen for- found on the next page. ming pretty patterns on the cobble fields. The nature reserve was established 1969 Nearly 5,000 years have passed since the highest points of the reserve rose above the surface Area [hectares] 165 of the sea. Since then, the land has been elevat- ed yet another 50 metres. Over the millennia, For a general map of the area, the sea has come crashing against the shores see pages 96-97. and swept sand, gravel and even finer sediments along with it. All that’s left are the exposed bedrock and the outstretched cobble fields. If you fancy leaving the trail, the beautiful walk around the five kilometres of the reserve’s shores is strongly recommended.

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Points of interest, Norrfällsviken

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The ramp in the photo pro- This shelter, where you can The pink Nordingrå granite vides a great view of Båda- also build a fire, is located in hardened in the earth’s crust malen – the reserve’s largest the very south and has a lovely over 1,500 million years ago. cobble field. It stretches all the view of Rävsön and Högbonden 300 million years later, melted way up to the highest point, Island. The county administra- diabase magma intruded into 50 metres above sea level, tion tries to provide fire wood the fractures in the granite, and is still expanding towards but to be sure you should bring creating black diabase dikes the south. a few pieces of wood yourself. like the ones seen in the photo. Another alternative is to look These are easy to find along for drift wood along the shores. the shores.

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Rotsidan A visit to Rotsidan is always a pleasure. Directions On a clear spring day like the one depicted Rotsidan nature reserve lies in the above, you can experience the waves that outer part of Nordingrå on the High have gathered speed all the way from the Coast. Coming from Nordingråvallen, the best thing to do is take the road Sea of Åland crashing against the rocks in via Häggvik and Kåsta. Once you a roar of foam. It is truly a demonstration reach the village of Fällsvik, there are of the powers that still shape this amazing signs towards the parking area of the reserve. There are paths leading to place. Rotsidan from Barsta chapel, north of the reserve, as well as from Fäll- Rotsidan is a four kilometre long section vikshamn. of the coast, known above all for its softly- The nature reserve was established shaped, dark diabase flat rock. Receiving 1974 almost 25,000 guests each year, it is one of our most well-visited nature reserves. Most Area [hectares] 112 come in the summer, carrying picnic baskets and beach towels, attracted by the rocks that For a general map of the area, have been warmed by the sun and the view see pages 96-97. of the open sea.

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There is a path leading from the parking area to the rocks, which The only Swedish habitat of is accessible for prams, strollers and wheelchairs. There is a com- the approximately two deci- posting toilet with provisions for the disabled along the way. metre high Northern Rock- There is also a marked path that stretches between Barsta and cress lies along the coast of Fällsvikshamn and along this path; there are several permanent Ångermanland. It is a pretty sites where you are allowed to build a fire. Fires are forbidden in commonly-sighted plant in the all other areas because the heat will cause the rock to fracture. crevices of Rotsidan.

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Skuleberget

“…along the path, an awfully steep where you can look out over the coast and high mountain, called Skuleberget, and the mountain’s rocky profile. which looked like a crypt. I wanted to If you want something a bit more go there, but people said it was impos- challenging, strap on a climbing harness sible; at great pains I managed to get a and attach yourself to one of the vertical couple of men to come with me…we ascent lines which will take you straight climbed up the cliffs, crawled, slid and up the over 100 metre high cliff face. pulled our-selves forward...we grabbed During the summer and winter there is one of the bushes…which, if it had a more convenient alternative – a cable- given way…would have been the end car which takes you to the restaurant of our lives.” and views at the top. At the foot of Skuleberget lies the This is how Carl von Linné described his High Coast Visitor’s Centre, which was dramatic ascent to Kungsgrottan on Skule- set up in the year 2000. This is a great berget in 1732. Today the path is still an place to begin your research on world exciting experience, but it has railings heritage. There is information about the and is hopefully not quite as terrifying. elevation of the land, which was the rea- If you continue on the path to the top son behind its nomination as a World and down via the northern end of the Heritage site, and tips on other excursion mountain, you pass several fantastic vistas destinations in the area. 22 Directions

Skuleberget and the High Coast Visitor’s Centre are located near the E4, just north of Docksta. If you are coming from the north, you will see the mountain’s steep profile immediately after you have crossed over the municipality border between Örn- sköldsvik and Kramfors. The entrance road is clearly sign-posted and is cleared of snow in the winte

The nature reserve was established 1969

Area [hectares] 226

For a general map of the area, see pages 96-97.

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24 Points of interest at Skuleberget

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To climb up Skuleberget’s mighty east face is a fantastic experien- The cable-car is in operation in ce. All in all there are three “Via ferrata” climbing paths, of vary- the winter when the ski slopes ing degrees of difficulty, where you climb whilst secured by steel are open and in the summer. cable. You can find more information at: www.highcoastcenter.se. The summit cabin’s restaurant is usually open whilst the cable-car is running.

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The High Coast Visitor’s A well-worn path leads you to After the inland ice receded, Centre was opened in the Kungsgrottan (The King’s Cave), about 10,000 years ago, the summer of 2007. It is home to which Linné visited in 1732. land was pressed down so a colourful and slightly uncon- The name refers to Karl XI, who much that only the top of Skule- ventional exhibition which de- tried to reach this point in 1694. berget stuck up above the sea- scribes the natural and human The ladder put there to assist level. Since then, uplift of the history of this World Heritage the climbers was considered land has rais-ed the mountain site. Enjoy the exhibition at your too dangerous to risk the climb. up 286 metres, a larger uplift own pace or take a tour with a “The ladder was good but the than anywhere else in the knowledgeable guide. There is man was afraid”, said the local world. The High Coast (HC) is also a restaurant. Admission is farmers. Others call the cave today noticeably just 10 metres free for everyone.Information Rövargrottan (Robber’s Cave), lower than the top of the moun- on opening times and current after the robbers who were tain (broken blue line on the exhibitions can be found at: said to have terrorized the area map). The viewing platform in www.naturumhogakusten.se. in the 1600s. the picture is right on the HC. 25 municipality k r a m f o r s

Storön Take yourself out to Storön and you will get Directions to experience one of our finest nature reser- Storön lies off the Norakusten, north ves with both dramatic nature and fascinat- of Hemsön. Hörsångs camping offers ing cultural history. The island’s southern a boat service out to the island (see next page). Turn off the E4 at the tip, which is also the High Coast’s southern Gräta junction. The road to Lövvik, outpost, is a 40 metre high landmark con- about 10 kilometres after Nora church, sisting of steep, terraced cliffs of grey dia- leads to Hörsång. If you come to Storön with your own boat, you are base and rust-red sandstone. welcome to dock at the quay, as long as you don’t get in the way of the tour For several hundred years, the harbour on the boat. eastern side of the island was important for The nature reserve was established fishing, but the elevation of the land made the 1970 passage into the harbour all the more shallow. Every year, the fishermen were forced to clean Area [hectares] 303 the “harbour hole” of stones. Sometime during the 1870s, this rather unfair battle was eventu- For a general map of the area, ally lost. What was once a sea cove and an see pages 96-97. excellent harbour sheltered from the weather is today an idyllic tranquil lake, cut off from the sea.

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Points of interest at Storön

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You do not need your own At the northern end of the The picture shows the place boat to get to the nature lake, a 1.5 km walk from the where the “harbour hole” was reserve. Hörsångs camping, quay, there is a rest hostel previously located. Today it is located all the way up in open for visitors to the reserve. difficult to see how, just 150 Grönsviksfjärden, offers a boat It is equipped with two beds years ago; it was possible to service out to the island. For and a heating stove. pass here by boat on the way more information: into Gammhamnen. www.nik-horsang.com.

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Älgberget-Björnberget We recommend a trip to the Älgberget-Björn- Directions berget nature reserve to those who appreciate From Kramfors, you drive west on authentic old forests and at the same time road 772. After a little more than are not afraid of a physical challenge. 10 kilometres, you come to the village of Mjövattnet. Directly after the village, you turn off to the right onto a Struggle up the Björnberget and you are re- gravel road, which leads to Habborn. warded with an amazing view over the southern After about nine kilometres on this reaches of Mjällådalen. On a clear day you can road, you turn off to the right towards the car-park at Västeråsen. see the planes taking off and landing at Mid- landa, down by the Indalsälven delta. The first You can also approach Habborn from thing you see when you enter the reserve from the south via Viksjö. Keep to the left and continue for three kilometres until the car-park is the old Västeråsen settlement. the turn off for the car-park. Stone walls, house foundations and old fields remind us today of the people who lived there The nature reserve was established 2004 up until the end of the 1930s. We have put a lovely rest hostel at Västeråsen, should you wish Area [hectares] to spend the night there. 267 For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95.

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Points of interest at Älgberget-Björnberget

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The cabin at Västeråsen lies A network of paths connects At Västeråsen, the short pas- half a kilometre from the car- Västeråsen with Björnberget tures contain an abundance of park. You are welcome to go in and, to the north, Älgberget. plant life. With a little luck, you and take some refreshments The terrain can be quite de- can find the Triangle Moonwort, or to stay overnight. The cabin manding. The best views are which is shown in the picture has four beds and a wood- marked on the map and can be – a rare plant which usually burning stove. In a folder you found on the southern off- grows to a height of about will find some information we shoots of what is known on 10 cm. In order to preserve the have compiled on Västeråsen’s certain maps as Västeråsberget. meadow flora, the grass is cut history. and raked late every summer.

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Gideåbergsmyrarna This is where you should come if you are Directions interested in wild orchids or if you want to From road 331 between Sollefteå and learn more about them. Ramsele you can travel over Faxälven either via Ärtrik (sign-posted to If you come to Gideåbergsmyrarna at the end Holmsta) or via Edsele. The first sign- post with the nature reserve’s name of May, you may be lucky enough to see the on it is in the village of Meåstrand exclusive and exquisitely beautiful calypso along the main road downstream of orchid. A few weeks later the lady’s-slipper Edsele. After this, you follow the road- signs until you come to a large notice flowers, our most well-known and eye-catch- board with information about the ing orchid which looks like it belongs in the reserve. tropics, rather than in a marsh in north-west The nature reserve was established Ångermanland. The most important explana- 1968 tion for the area’s high botanical value is the moraine, an unsorted mix of stones, gravel, Area [hectares] 86 sand and other finer sediments which the inland ice brought here from Jämtland over For a general map of the area, 10,000 years ago. This Jämtland moraine is see pages 98-99. very rich in calcium and creates the perfect earth for calcium-loving flowers.

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Points of interest at Gideåbergsmyrarna

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The lady’s slipper has no nec- Calypso Orchid The 10 cm Hay-making At Mellanmyren tar, but manages to tempt in- high, slender calypso orchid is we make hay every other year sects into it anyway. When they a decidedly northern orchid in order to keep the bog open. land on it, they slide down the which is found, rarely, from In this way we support the deep lips of the flower, which northern Hälsingland up to growth of orchids such as the are cleverly constructed with Norrbotten. In the reserve, it heath spotted orchid (or moor- smooth insides. It takes a while can be found in the marshy land spotted orchid), the narrow- before the insect manages to spruce forest between Små- leaved marsh orchid, fragrant get out – and then, it’s without myrarna and Mellanmyren. gymnadenia and the common its reward but full of pollen. twayblade.

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Granvågsniporna The three hills Borgen, Svalnipan and Directions Rödskäggsnipan stand like sentries as the The reserve lies six kilometres north Faxälven flows into the Ångermanälven. of Sollefteå. First take road 87 to Långsele. Immediately after the Over the thousands of years since the melt- entrance to the hospital, take the road to Skärvsta, where you will then turn ing of the inland ice, these two rivers have off onto a smaller road to Granvåg and sculpted the hills and their steep sandy river- Österåsen. banks. From the top of the banks, you have A sign directs you into the reserve just before Faxälven. The road is a magnificent view over the surrounding ploughed in the winter. Please respect countryside in one of the most beautiful the private grounds connected with parts of Ådalen. Down by the slow-moving the reserve. river, one of the old fishermen’s cabins is The nature reserve was established open for you. There is also a nice rest hostel 1975 there and you are welcome to light a fire. Area [hectares] The paths along the waterside are wide and 32 easily accessible, even for prams and wheelchairs. The area around the cabins and the For a general map of the area, see pages 98-99. areas of cultural interest in the south are kept accessible with the help of hay-making and grazing animals.

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Points of interest at Granvågsniporna

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Seine-fishing The farmers in Riverbanks The high banks, Västergranvåg have fished with formed by the rivers, consist seines in the streams outside of sand, silt and clay, which the present reserve since were deposited in what was Queen Kristina’s reign. The log then a sea cove upon the melt- cabins are used as overnight ing of the inland ice. The mate- lodging and for the storage of rial is susceptible to erosion salmon and seines. One of and liable to collapse. 1 them is open today for visitors to the reserve. The view from Svalnipan. 33 municipality s o l l e f t e å

Långvattnet The beautiful and singular landscape with Directions its easily walkable, pine-covered ridges and Långvattnet’s nature reserve is situat- heaths, in addition to the excellent fishing ed on both sides of road 346, between available in more than thirty lakes, large and Junsele and Backe, just over 10 kilometres west of Junsele. The old main small, makes the Långvattnet nature reserve road through the reserve is cleared of an outdoor area of the highest class. snow in the winter.

This area, as well as the countryside which is The nature reserve was established 1974 so attractive to visitors, has a high geoscientific value. Here there are formations that clearly Area [hectares] reveal the processes that were at work when 1 020 the last inland ice melted. The forests have For a general map of the area, been formed by fire and felling and forestry see pages 98-99. is permitted in this reserve. The area is easily accessible and along the well-marked trails you will find information boards and several wind- breaks. There are also three caravan sites and a rest hostel south of Botjärnen.

34 Points of interest at Långvattnet

Fishing is permitted in most The countryside got its special appearance when the last inland of the reserve’s lakes upon ice melted approximately 9,000 years ago. The reserve’s eastern purchase of a licence. Here half was then a bay in the Ancylussjön – a predecessor to the there are good chances of Östersjön (Baltic Sea); a river carrying melt water ran into the bay catching salmon trout and char and formed a sand delta. Large ice blocks lay embedded in the in the summer and winter. sand and when they later melted, small ‘kettle holes’ were formed, which today are small lakes. Coarser material which the river For more information visit the brought with it built up the gravel esker, upon which the road be- website: tween Junsele and Backe is built. www.fiske.vasternorrland.se

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The Cutleaf Anemone in Nässjö village

This is one of the absolute smallest distances. We have no evidence that the nature reserves, but it is also one of cutleaf anemone has been able to estab- the most exclusive. It is here that the lish itself in any new locations over the very rare cutleaf anemone grows – in last few decades. Sweden it is found only in Ramsele We have made certain minor attempts, and on Gotland. through burning and ground prepara- tion, to remove vegetation and create The cutleaf anemone thrives on dry better conditions for the plant – attempts sunny ground and flowers as early as which have been quite successful. May. The plants can live to be very old In the nature reserve, the cutleaf ane- and 100 year-old specimens are not mone can be found within the detached unusual. section to the north-west and also on the Their number has greatly reduced in rather stony meadowland of the southern Sweden – a consequence of their habitat slopes down below the farmhouse build- re-growing and not being kept open, as ings. They are most abundant, however, it was earlier, by hay-making and graz- alongside the road next to the car-park, ing. Their seeds are also quite large and there they established themselves, typi- heavy and rely on getting a free ride from cally, after digging work when a cable some animal if they are to travel greater was laid.

36 Directions

The area is easily accessible and lies in Nässjö village, west of Ramsele. Take road 345 towards Strömsund and turn off onto a smaller road which goes through Nässjö village. A small parking space can be found by the telecoms office.

The nature reserve was established 1998

Area [hectares] 1,5

For a general map of the area, see pages 98-99.

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Oringsjö/Mo-Långsjön Here you can become acquainted with two Directions nature reserves which embrace some of the Oringsjö and Mo-Långsjöns nature county’s most protection-worthy forests. reserves are best reached by taking Mobodarna, mountain lodges which were the northerly road at Näsåker towards Grundtjärn and Örnsköldsvik. At Jan- used from the early 1800s up until the 1940s sjö the reserve is sign-posted: Oring- can also be found here. Today, the lodges are sjö nature reserve 9 kms. With one owned by the state and are open for visitors. kilometre left, follow the sign onto a smaller forest road to the right.

If you start out from the northern car-park and The nature reserve was established take the southerly path into the Mo-Långsjön 1985 Oringsjö. In 2010 Mobodarna nature reserve, after a couple of hundred metres was included. 2007 Mo-Långsjön you will come to a burnt pine forest dominated by several 100-year old Scots Pines. If instead Area [hectares] you go north into the Oringsjö nature reserve, 129 Oringsjö 112 Mo-Långsjön you will come to a real primeval forest, where the spruces are upwards of three hundred years For a general map of the area, old. This is a great habitat for mosses, lichens, see pages 98-99. fungi and insects which like shade, rotting tree- trunks and an environment which changes very slowly.

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Points of interest at Oringsjö/Mo-Långsjön

Of the four original mountain shacks, two remain today, both Pytho kolwensis is one of our of which were rebuilt and restored at the beginning of the 1990s. most fastidious bugs. Only the The one to the west is open as a rest hostel and is available for best marshy forests are good overnight stays. There is a heating stove and two beds. A drinking enough for this 15 mm long water spring can be found near the mountain pasture and nearby beetle. It can be found at is the large Oringsjötallen lake. Two milking sheds and a barn can around 15 locations in Sweden be found by the pasture. The objective, as far as Mobodarna is but is most abundant at Oring- concerned, is to restore the open grazing environment which sjö. existed here when the mountain shacks were in use. During 2010, spruce trees were felled and a fence erected.

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Brämön ”Brämön north-east, twelve metres per Directions second. Veering north during the night. Brämön is most easily reached by Increasing.” Many recognize Brämön from boat from Lörudden in southern hearing it on the shipping forecast. Njurunda, just about forty kilometres south of Sundsvall. You have to orga- nize boat transportation yourself. At Fewer people realize that the more than ten Sanna, there is a relatively sheltered square kilometre island has been a nature beach where you can moor. reserve since 2004. The steep north-western The nature reserve was established side facing Brämösundet gives the island its 2004 characteristic profile. The exterior is flatter, with a coastline comprising several kilometres Area [hectares] 1 556 of unspoilt cliffs. In the south there are fine sandy beaches. The landscape is characterized For a general map of the area, by barren rocks and weather-bitten Scots Pines. see pages 94-95. As a contrast, there are also damper valleys and small bogs with their own unique flora. No fewer than 16 different types of orchid have been found here.

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Points of interest at Brämön

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The broad-leaved helleborine Sanna and Norrhamn Outside You are welcome to camp on Calcium-rich material transport- the nature reserve lay Sanna the island, on the condition ed here by the inland ice from and Norrhamn which have that, between February 1 and the seabed north-east of the been central to the island and August 31, you do so within island has brought about the its several hundred year history the area marked with red lines right conditions for calcium- as locations for fishing, pilot on the map. The lighting of loving plants. The broad-leaved stations and lighthouses. fires in the summer is permitt- helleborine in the picture is ed only at designated locations. one of these – a rarely seen, c. 40 cm high orchid which flowers in July-August. 41 municipality s u n d s v a l l

Gudmundstjärn For modern people like us, who are accusto- Directions med to food, clothing and bits and pieces The reserve lays north-west of Bjäs- imported from every corner of the worlds, it sjön in Indal. can be thought-provoking to stand by Gud- From Sundsvall you take road 86 mundstjärn and realize that the people who towards Indal. lived on this beautiful but tiny spot could produce nearly everything they needed in From Indal there are signs which direct you to Gudmundstjärn. order to live and survive. Yes, and to live well too. The nature reserve was established 1983

Five generations of direct descendants lived Area [hectares] here from the late 1700s right up into the 71 1940s. The land was used in a traditional For a general map of the area, manner with horses, cows and sheep, hay- see pages 94-95. making and the harvesting of grain. Amongst Gudmundstjärn’s 20 or so well-preserved buildings you can find a sawmill, a mill, a baker’s cabin and a blacksmith. In the summer, a restaurant is open and guided tours are possible. 42 1

Points of interest at Gudmundstjärn

The sawmill, which was built Meadows and pastures are Information on activities in in the 1860s, also housed a still maintained today through the reserve can be found on mill, a threshing-mill and a hay-making and grazing in order the webpage www.gudmunds- room in which to wash and to preserve the beautiful lands- tjarn.se. Even without a guide, ‘stamp’ wool. All of this was cape and the typical meadow there is plenty of information done with the power of the flora with species such as the on the notice boards to assist water from the brook, which Spotted Cat’s-ear, the Alpine you around the reserve. was the only source of energy. Bistort and the Mountain Dog Violet. In the picture is the rarely seen Field Gentian.

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Högänge This is one of our largest and best-preserved Directions meadows - a rare remnant of a type of nature Högänge nature reserve lies about which was previously very common in this 19 kms west of Matfors, by road 305 county. A visit to Högänge on a sunny June between Stöde and Hassela. or July day is warmly recommended for From Sundsvall you take the E14 to anyone with an interest in flowers. Matfors and after that the Rännö- vägen to Vigge. Once there, you turn Compared to the early 1800s, today there is right at a crossroads onto road 305 and continue a further 500 metres just a very small percentage of meadowland before you come to the reserve, left in Sweden. The nature reserve’s rich flora which is situated on south-westerly has been formed through several hundred years slopes, on Viggesjön’s eastern side. of hay-making and grazing. In order to retain The nature reserve was established their biological and cultural value, we at the 1999 reserve usually make hay at the end of July, as Area [hectares] is traditional – any additional work is carried 2,3 out in the autumn. On the next page you will see examples of some of the plants to be found For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95. in the meadows. Several of them are rarities. There is also a mini-guide to the most common bumble bees.

44 Common Twayblade Spotted Cat’s-Ear c. 40 cm high, rare c. 40 cm high plant orchid which flowers which flowers in July. in June-July. Teesdale Violet Pyramidal Bugle c. 5 cm. Rare plant c. 10 cm high. Flowers which flowers in May- in May-June. June.

Euphrasia rostkoviana Cat’s Foot c. 10 cm Field Gentian 5-20 Fragrant Orchid 20-30 ssp. fennica c. 20 cm high. Flowers most in cm high, rare plant cm high orchid which extremely endangered June. Greatly reduced which flowers in July. flowers in June-July. plant which flowers in in number. August

The bumble bees are amongst the meadowlands’ most important pollinators – spreaders of pollen between flowers. Their stripes make them easy to recognize. Here are the seven most common varieties.

Broken-belted Tree Bumble- White-tailed Red-tailed Garden Common Early Bumble-bee Humble-bee bee Bumble-bee Bumble-bee Bumble-bee Carder-Bee 45 municipality s u n d s v a l l

Navarån Navarån’s shimmering green water is crystal Directions clear. To look down through it and see the The area can be reached from the bottom so clearly is almost like looking into northern part of the road between an aquarium. Stöde and Holm (ca. thirty kilometres north of Stöde), where the river section of the reserve can be found just The river is home to a collection of one of east of the road. Sweden’s most threatened and protected species – the freshwater pearl mussel. The species sets You can also take the road from Kovland to Holm and turn left at the great demands for its natural habitat, and this southern end of Holmsjön. After ca. itself speaks volumes for the river’s high water three kilometres you turn left again quality. After a short walk from the car-park and continue for a further one and a half kilometres you come to a wooden deck situated alongside the edge of the beach. This is a lovely place to The nature reserve was established sit, have some refreshments and take a look at 2008 the river. From there you can see several hund- Area [hectares] red freshwater pearl mussels, partly buried in 1 087 the riverbed. In 2006, when we last surveyed For a general map of the area, the whole of Navarån, we found over 200,000 see pages 94-95. mussels.

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Points of interest on the Navarån

The picture shows a salmon The beaver is another of the The upper sections of the trout, the most common spe- Navarån’s inhabitants. Through river are surrounded by old cies of fish in the river. It is pre- its construction of dams, it forests containing pine trees requisite for the survival of the makes an important ecological which are over 350 years old. freshwater pearl mussel. During contribution to nearly all of our The eldest mussels in the river its development into a fully streams in which the mussels are over 200 years old. The grown mussel, the freshwater are found. freshwater pearl mussel is the pearl mussel goes through a longest-living animal species larva phase where, for several found in Sweden. years, it lives parasitically on the salmon trout’s gills. 47 municipality s u n d s v a l l

Rigåsen It is an almost spiritual experience to stand Directions at the top of Rigåsen and realize that it is From Stavreviken you travel via Ljus- human labour which has created this beauti- torp and Lagfors. North of Lagfors, ful and peaceful glade at such a high and there are signs to the reserve. The last twenty kilometres or so are remote location. The nature reserve is a lovely forest roads. From the car-park, there destination for an excursion with traces of is a lovely walk of about half a kilo- the life that was once lived here. metre before you come to Rigåsen. The nature reserve was established At some point in the 1700s, a settlement was 1982 established and the arduous task of converting the fields into fields and meadows was started. Area [hectares] 10 The land provided sustenance for two families, and in 1941 the last permanent residents moved For a general map of the area, away from here. Several of the buildings remain, see pages 94-95. surrounded by lilacs and other plants which the residents planted a long time ago. The rich meadow flora can also still be found there. In order to maintain the plant life, we ensure that the meadows are mowed every year.

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Points of interest at Rigåsen

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The old baker’s cabin now Cat’s foot is a short herb up to The wolf lichen has become serves today as a rest hostel, 20 cms high which flowers in very rare. Old dry Scots Pine somewhere to get out of the May-July. It is found in mea- trees are their natural habitat, rain or perhaps to stay over- dows which have a lack of but they can also grow on buil- night. Here you will find four nutrients, like those at Rigåsen. dings constructed of untreated beds and a heating stove. If Cat’s foot has been in serious wood. Here you can see it gro- you want to delve deeper into decline over the whole of wing on the facade of a house. Rigåsen’s history, we have Sweden, due to the overgro- In days gone by it was used as compiled some material on this wing of land which was pre- poison for wolves. in a folder inside the cabin. viously maintained.

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Salen The nature reserve consists of a flat, several Directions kilometres long stretch of coastline with The nature reserve is situated along shallow coves, lagoons, islands, sand dunes the Njurunda coast, just south of Lör- and wetlands. There is a strong sense that udden. the countryside here is completely unspoiled. Turn east off the E4 at the Njurunda This is how much of the Norrland coast barrier, ca. 16 kms south of Sundsvall would look if it was left unexploited. – sign-posted to Lörudden. After just about 15 kilometres there is a sign for the reserve on the right. After three When the county administrative board in- kilometres on this gravel road there is augurated the nature reserve in June 2008, a car-park for visitors to the nature it was the county’s first marine nature reserve reserve. – in other words, a reserve where the nature The nature reserve was established that was to be protected was primarily under 2008 sea-level. The vegetation found on the sea-bed Area [hectares] is rich and varied. In the inner parts of Salen, 703 the water is already warm in early spring, thanks to its sheltered situation and its shallow For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95. depth. The environment is perfect for fish to spawn and grow up in.

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Points of interest at Salen

The inner part of Salen is a Several of the recently cut-off As the land level continues lagoon which, due to the rising sea inlets have been trans- to rise, the cut-off fresh water land level, will be completely formed into fresh water lakes lakes grow into wetlands. cut off from the sea within and nurture water salaman- In the northern part of the 100 years. The inlet consists of ders, large and small. Both reserve, two of the county’s two shallow passages with the species breed in water but most protected bogs can be island Granskär in the middle. otherwise spend the majority found, Juni-Stormyran and The left passage, shown in the of the year on land. Grönsviksmyran. picture, is a narrow, hand-dug canal.

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Stornäset Stornäset is the best location in the county Directions for observing migratory birds. From the E4, head for Alnö. After Alnöbron continue straight ahead at The reserve’s shallow shores, sandbanks and the roundabout. Then follow the signs pastured dunes provide food and rest for its to Stornäset in the northern part of Alnön. The road to the car-park is long-distance guests, primarily waders, swans, cleared of snow in the winter. geese and ducks. Most of the birds only stay a short while before they resume their journeys The nature reserve was established 1968 between the Russian tundra and southern Europe. The observation tower on the outer- Area [hectares] most headland and the hide in the northern 85 section of the reserve are good for bird-watch- For a general map of the area, ing. They are best accessed from the car-park see pages 94-95. via an excellent planked path which is also wheelchair and pushchair-friendly. High season for the migratory birds is May and from the middle of July to the beginning of October, when the birds return to warmer climes. On the next page you can see some of the reserve’s commonest visitors. 52 Points of interest at Stornäset

Wigeon Common Snipe Common Greenshank

Tufted Duck Bar-tailed Godwit 53 municipality s u n d s v a l l

Sundsjöåsen This is a great destination for autumn Directions mushroom and berry-picking trips. Well- From Liden, fifty kilometres north- signposted hiking paths guide you through west of Sundsvall, cross over the beautiful, unspoiled forests. By the path to Indalsälven and continue for four kilometres, past the village of Åsen, Svarttjärnen there is an overnight log cabin before turning left. After eight kilo- which is always available. metres you pass Lill-Sundsjön’s nature reserve. After another kilo- The height difference between Sundsjöåsen’s metre, turn off to the left again up to the reserve’s car-park. lowest and highest points is as much as 430 metres – more than in any of the county’s It is also sign-posted from the south, other nature reserves. The dramatic topo- at Sodalen on the road between Kovland and Holm. graphy is the reason why the reserve’s forests are so varied. Tall, lush Norwegian spruces and The nature reserve was established European aspen grow in the steep slopes down 1985 by the Indalsälven whilst the high plateau in Area [hectares] the south, where the climate is harsher, is more 418 reminiscent of a mountain forest. For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95.

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Points of interest at Sundsjöåsen

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A little over two kilometres The path to the overnight If you want to visit more east of the car-park you will cabin is an old seasonal pas- reserves in the area, there is find a lovely timbered overnight ture track and just over a kilo- also the Lill-Sundsjöns nature cabin. It has four beds and a metre from the car-park you reserve, which lays a couple of heating stove. arrive at Nilsbölebodarna. It is kilometres west of Sundsjö- a mountain shack which was åsen. It is quite a small reserve used up until around 1910. To which is dominated by ancient keep the pastures open, they pine forests which feature are cut at regular intervals. Scots pines over 350 years old.

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Indalsälvens delta The Indalsälv delta is one of Sweden’s largest Directions delta areas. Three bridges take you out to The Indalsälv delta nature reserve Smackgrundet and the kilometre-long sandy lies right next to the E4 at Midlands, beach which is a popular destination on Sundsvall-Härnösand’s airport. The E4’s bridges cross several of the warm summer days. delta’s many branches.

Much of the sand which makes up the delta An approach road from the E4 at was brought here by the 15 metre-high flood Midlanda will take you to the reserve. wave which tore down through the Indalsälv The nature reserve was established river after Vild Hussen’s (Magnus Huss’s) 1992 draining of Ragundasjön on June 6, 1796. Area [hectares]] Even today the delta is in a constant state of 199 flux, albeit on a smaller scale. Smaller channels shallows since the current is weaker there. For a general map of the area, see pages 94-95. Small islands are joining with others to create bigger islands and the large furrows are becom- ing wider and deeper. The delta is increasing in size due to the rising of the land and the supply of sand.

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Points of interest at the Indalsälv delta

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At the delta, water levels are The walking paths are such Bathing for naturists Do you constantly changing and this is that pushchairs and wheel- like to bathe naked? If so, walk favourable for certain species. chairs also have easy access a couple of kilometres along Two examples of this are the to the beach. the beach and you will find rarely seen persicaria foliosa, one of the county’s naturist pictured above and the rare beaches. myricaria germanica.

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Åstön For 50 years, Åstön was presided over by the Directions Ministry of Defence. When their operation To find the reserve, turn off the E4 at ceased in 2000, Timrå Municipality estab- Söråker and head towards Tynderö. lished a nature reserve in order to preserve Continue past Söråker and, in Bäräng, take a bridge out to Åstön itself. the area’s natural beauty and increase access You can park after a further five kilo- to outdoor life. Today, Åstön is a popular metres, just before Skeppshamn. destination with more than 20,000 visitors You can of course also get to the per year. reserve by boat. In Söråkersviken there are landing stages which make Despite many visitors, you don’t need to worry mooring easier. about crowds. With several kilometres of com- The nature reserve was established pletely unexploited cliff coastline and fine 2000 sandy beaches you can easily find your own favourite little spot. There are also important Area [hectares] 395 cultural sites, such as Skeppshamn’s old fishing village, with its chapel dating from the 1700s. For a general map of the area, The gravel roads make it easy for you to get see pages 94-95. about and Åstön is one of few reserves in the county where we can warmly recommend a cycle tour.

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Points of interest on Åstön

1 2 3

The chapel in Skeppshamn, In Skeppshamn there is a ser- Åstholmen, which lies south built in 1768, was previously vice building with toilets and of the reserve’s boundaries, a focal point for the fishing information on the island’s fish- is also well-visited, due to its village. It was here that fisher- ing heritage. You can also find beautiful seaside location, easy men’s meetings and church a fishing museum housed in accessibility and convenient, services were held. The fisher- the village’s eldest boathouse. vehicle-free walking paths. men’s tackle was also stored In the old Officers’ Mess, the It has been proposed that Åst- here during the winter. Skeppshamn café is open holmen be incorporated into during the summer months. the nature reserve.

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Björntjärn A visit to Björntjärn’s nature reserve is like Directions going to a museum of ancient forests, of On road 83, south of Alby, head over which only a few remain today. Forests Ljungan and drive west towards By- untouched by axe or saw, dominated by berget. At Byberget, turn off down towards the lake and continue to- twisted giant Scots Pines, silver-grey dry wards Stensjön. After about 13 kilo- long-boled pines and several hundred-year metres you come to a sign which old Norwegian spruces. points left towards the nature reserve which you come to after another kilometre. A letter, sent in 1935 to the Chief Forest Officer of the central Norrland district, states The nature reserve was established that, at Björntjärn, ”only older and dried trees 1983 have been felled here”. Even back then, an Area [hectares] unspoilt forest such as this was unusual. 20 Visionaries at the National Forest Enterprise, For a general map of the area, who were the owners at that time, saw to it see page 93. that a ’domain reserve’ was established in 1938. In 1983 it was reformed into the nature reserve which we today plan to extend to the south.

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Points of interest at Björntjärn

2 In 2011, an extension of the reserve is planned, down towards Gröttjärnen in the south-west. The additional area consists primarily of elder pine forest with a somewhat lower nature value than the current reserve. In order for 1 the pines to become really old, they must be exposed to fire. Björntjärn is part of the Sten- Dead trees, whether they are Through conservation fires in sjö fishing licence area, to- still standing or lying on the the new area as well as in the gether with eleven nearby ground, are the foundation for present reserve, the goals are, lakes, large and small. The the forest’s many species. They respectively, to recreate or lakes contain salmon trout. are the habitat of many of our retain, through the provision rarest species. In an unspoilt of living and dead trees, the forest such as this, dead trees characteristics of a high natural can account for nearly half of value forest which has been the total number of trees. affected by fire.

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Haverö strömmar In this nature reserve you can acquaint Directions yourself with one of our few river rapids The reserve lies just over forty kilo- which have not been put into use for the metres west of Ånge, between production of hydro-electric power. Haverö and Vikar- bodarna. From Ånge, you take road 83 to Östa- This is where the river Ljungan, on its other- vall, where you then turn off onto road wise restrained journey between Härjedals- 315 towards Rätansbyn. Between fjällen and Bottenhavet, gets to run free, Kölsillre and Haverö there is a sign which leads you onto the road into along an eight kilometre stretch of rapids, the nature reserve. from Haverö strömmar, past Kölsillre ström- mar and down to Holmsjön. The most visited You can also approach the reserve from the south. Directions can be part of the reserve is in the west, where the found one kilometre north of Torrflo- river divides into three branches which sur- näs, on road 314 to Ytterhogdal. round the two islands, Kvissleön and Haverön. The nature reserve was established In addition to the beautiful nature and good 1999 fishing, you can also enjoy the exciting cultural environment of the old Strömnäs mill. Area [hectares] 490 The accompanying mill house opens as a café in the summer. For a general map of the area, see page 93.

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Points of interest at Haverö strömmar

Strömnäs mill was built in Fishing on the river is govern- Otters The otter, which is a 1854 and was in use up until ed by the Haverö fish conser- protected species, is one of 1947. In the summer, there is vation area and is made avail- the rarer animals found in the a café and arts and crafts are able to the public through the reserve. An extremely skilful sold in the adjacent mill house. sale of fishing licences. The fisher, it is adapted for life in You can also book your place area is popular with anglers the water with webbed feet on a tour of the mill. and is annually stocked with and nostrils, which can be grayling and salmon trout. closed whilst diving, which can last for up to five minutes.

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Helvetesbrännan

Whoever gave Helvetesbrännan (Hell’s for you to go from the forest to the re- Burning) its sulphurous name had serve’s plentiful fishing lakes and beauti- evidently been deeply impressed by ful vistas. If you want to be outside for the undulating landscape’s gnarled several days, then there are four over- boulders and the sooty forests ravaged night cabins open all year round. by recurrent fires. Today, this roadless, 34 square kilometre nature reserve re- and partly by fire. mains one of our last real wildernesses. Few places outside of the mountain Researchers have established that the area region can boast a protected forest of has burned at least 28 times since the this size. end of the 1100s. Up on the Abborr- tjärns mountain stands a greying dry- The ground is so dominated by boulders boled pine (a standing, dead pine) which in places that a forester is supposed to has avoided both fire and mankind’s axes. have said “at Helvetesbrännan you can When its age was determined a few years walk all day without touching the ago, it was shown to have put down its ground”. But don’t get frightened – the roots in the year 1080, about the same wilderness is now criss-crossed by well- time as the Viking era ended. signed hiking paths which make it easy

64 Directions

Helvetesbrännan lays north-west of Ånge at the county border with Jämt- land. From Ånge, you take road 83 towards Alby. Just south of Alby, about thirty kilometres from Ånge, you turn right onto a forest road. Follow the road-signs to the parking spaces at Flistersjön or Näbbtjärn.

From Jämtland, it is sign-posted from the E14, 13 kilometres north of the county border.

The nature reserve was established 2000

Area [hectares] 3 391

For a general map of the area, see page 93.

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66 Points of interest at Helvetesbrännan

Helvetesbrännan is a source area for the Vattenån river, one of the country’s most protected watercourses. Here, for example, you can find otters and an abundance of freshwater pearl mussels.

1 The reserve’s forests have been formed by fire. The map shows where recent fires have occurred. The worst burnt field is the result of a lightning strike in 2005. To the east is an over 100 hectare large conservation fire that carried out in 1999. The picture to the left shows a tall pine with a “fire cleft” that the fire created. By taking out part of the tree and seeing which year- Information on the fine fishing ring is damaged, we can tell available in the reserve can be the year in which it burnt. found at: www.fiske.vasternorrland.se.

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At Mejerstjärn, just over a kilometre from the car-park, there is a The cabin in the picture has a lovely rest hostel which is open for you all year round. It is equip- beautiful setting by Kniptjärnen’s ped with a heating stove and four beds. southern shore, just over two Anders and Märta Mejer lived at this remote spot during the kilometres north of Mejerstjärn- middle of the 1800s and it was here that eighteen (!) children first stugan. The same type of over- saw the light of day. Anders Mejer was known to be a good black- night cabin with two beds and smith who forged, amongst other things, sheep shears, which a heating stove can also be Marta then sold in the surrounding villages. Today you can find found at Djuptjärnen to the traces of the family’s old cultivations west of Mejerstjärnen. west and Rången to the north.

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Jämtgaveln

Just south of the border with Jämtland, life. The reserve is large enough for a the Jämtgaveln nature reserve stretches visit of several days and there are almost out over almost 30 square kilometres 30 kilometres of well-marked hiking of wilderness. The area’s extensive for- paths here. If you need somewhere to ests, characterized by low-key forestry stay overnight, try one of the cabins or and timber-felling, were typical of the find a nice spot to pitch your tent. You Norrland forest landscape of 100 years are welcome to camp throughout the ago. Today, after a century of intensive whole reserve and you are also permitted forestry, that which was once typical to light a camp fire, but remember that has become somewhat unique. you are not allowed to cut wood from living or dead trees. The countryside, which for centuries has been a source of food and sustenance, has Many of the reserve’s visitors come here today become somewhere we can enjoy in the winter, tempted by the great win- in our leisure time. Jämtgaveln’s mosaic ter fishing. A different entrance road is of fire-branded pine forests, large, lobate used in the winter than in the summer bogs and over thirty glimmering, plenti- – see the directions below. In the winter ful fishing lakes, offer rich opportunities you can also go by snowmobile along to those wishing to enjoy the outdoor the paths which pass by the reserve.

68 Directions

There are signs to the reserve from the E14 at the service station in Borg- sjö, where you can also find the Ånge Nature Visitor’s Centre – take the chance to visit this excellent exhibition (open all year round, free entry).

The road from Borgsjö is not cleared of snow in the winter. Instead, you should turn off the E14, 5 kms west of Borgsjö, towards Ånge airport. Take a left after 200 m and then a right after a further 1 km. After about 9 kms, turn off to the right, when you have Övertjärnen on your left. Follow the road until it ends.

The nature reserve was established 1995

Area [hectares] 3 058

For a general map of the area, see page 93. 69 municiplaity

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70 Points of interest at Jämtgaveln

In Torringen, there are salmon trout, whitefish, pike and perch as well as a well-established supply of char. Information on fishing licences etc. can be found at: www.fiske.vasternorrland.se.

1 Between Rast- bodarna and Bastu- näset, the path passes Munk- By studying the year-rings in fire-damaged trees, researchers fjorden. Two rowing boats, one have dated 16 major fires in the reserve between 1364 and 1894. on each shore, help you across. When the forestry industry was expanding, towards the end of Row over to the other side to the 1800s, local inhabitants became very efficient at putting out pick up the boat which is on forest fires and stricter with regards to the banning of burn-beating. that shore and tow it back with Today, many of the plants and animals that thrive after fires have you. Tie it up on the shore and occurred have become rare. To counteract this trend, we burn row back to wherever you want parts of the forest in our reserve. East of the road there are three to start hiking from on the other clearings which were burned in the 1990s. North of Värsjö, there side. The boats are for crossing is a section of forest that we burned in 2005. use only.

2 3 4 At Nybyggesjön, 3-4 kms The lovely overnight cabin at Out on a spit in the Torringen from the car-park, there is a Rastbodarna has four beds and lake, facing the southern sun, rest hostel equipped with a a heating stove. Rastbodarna is lies Eriksstugan, a small over- heating stove and four beds. an old mountain shack which, night cabin with two beds and In the 1600s, colonists settled according to some, got its a wood-burning stove. on the other side of the lake name in in the Middle Ages, and from the end of the 1700s when it was a place where to the year 1897, summer pas- people would rest on their tures were maintained by far- travels between Sweden and mers from Borgsjö village. Norway. 71 municipality

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Balesudden The steep slopes of Balesudden, with its Directions pink Nordingrå granite, are a magnificent The main car-park is the one north sight for those approaching Bäckfjärden of Sandlågan. Directions to the car from the sea. park start five kilometres south of Domsjö, on the road between Dom- sjö and Bjästa. The road to the car- The almost ten square kilometre nature park is cleared of snow in the winter. reserve embraces lofty mountain vistas with The reserve is also easily accessed sparse, stone-floored pine forests and deep by boat. Good mooring points can be found at Sör-Balesviken, Bodviken spruce forests. Here you can enjoy fantastic and Nor-Balesviken. views, a bewitching little lake with crystal- clear water and sea coves with sheltered sandy The nature reserve was established 1985 beaches. The name Balesudden probably comes from the word ”bal”, which in the Area [hectares] Swedish of the Middle Ages meant bål (bon- 934 fire), and it is likely that, in days gone by, the For a general map of the area, mountain functioned as a beacon which could see pages 96-97. be lit to warn villagers of impending enemy attacks.

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Points of interest on Balesudden

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Balestjärnen’s shimmering Balesudden on fire During At Bodviken, just over 2 kms light-green water is completely several hot June days in 2008, south of the car-park at Sand- clear. Do like the person in the Balesudden was on fire. The lågan, there is an open cabin picture, put on your diving fire brought with it the condi- with a heating stove and eight mask and watch the small tions needed for the creation beds. 600 m down towards perch spawning amongst the of new life - insects and fungi, Mellan-Balesviken there is a tree skeletons on the water amongst others, need dead drinking water spring. bed. trees and the fire provided this.

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Kålhuvudet Kålhuvudet is a large upland nature reserve Directions where you can experience the real taiga From Örnsköldsvik, take road 358 landscape. Here you will find an almost to Björna and further on to Hemling. completely unspoilt mosaic of ancient Just before Hemling you follow directions to Kålhuvudet. You will then primeval spruce forests and beautiful come to another sign at which you slop-ing bogs reminiscent of more moun- turn right. Follow the road in a west- tainous regions. erly direction, past Kravattenliden and the power lines to the turning area at the end of the road. The open forests, which invite hiking and ski tours, have formed by the harsh climate. If you The nature reserve was established look up at the tree-tops you will see that each 1993 and every tree has been damaged by the snow. Area [hectares] The overnight cabin at Västerhus-Rödmyran is 771 a good starting point for exploring the reserve. For a general map of the area, From here, a marked path leads to central parts see pages 100-101. of the reserve. Past the cabin you also pass the ”primeval forest trail” on its road between Vändåtberget’s nature reserve and Björna.

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Points of interest at Kålhuvudet

At Västerhus-Rödmyran, just There are species which we The three-toed woodpecker over a kilometre from the car- can just about only find here in makes use of dead and dying park, there is a log cabin in this type of primeval spruce trees by finding food, primarily great condition. It is equipped forest of high nature value. insects, in them and by build- with two generously-sized One such species is the fungi ing nests in them for its young. bunk beds and a heating stove. fornitopsis rosea, which you The bird is characteristic of About 100 metres south of the see in the picture. It is found elder Norrland forests, espe- cabin there is a drinking water on the trunks of dead spruces cially the large ones around spring. lying on the ground. Kålhuvudet.

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Skallbergsgrottorna Skallbergsgrottorna (The Skallberg caves) Directions are definitely one of our stranger excursion From Gideå, which is situated about destinations. If you are brave enough, you thirty kilometres north of Örnskölds- can experience one of the country’s longest vik, drive north-west, along Gissjön’s northern shore, until, after three kilo- and most accessible primary rock cave sys- metres, you come to the car-park tems. arranged for visitors to the nature reserve. It was during the 1970s that the legendary The nature reserve was established native of Gideå, Gustav Sjögren, ensured that Under bildande the caves became fully researched. He improved accessibility by installing many ingenious step- Area [hectares] 59 ladders and the public started to find their way here. In 2007, Gustav’s constructions were re- For a general map of the area, placed with modern ladders and platforms. The see pages 100-101. caves’ total length is 230 metres. The tourist path is well-marked and takes about half an hour to crawl through at a leisurely pace. Robust clothing and a torch or headlamp are essential items of equipment as well as, prefera- bly, a helmet.

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1 On the mountain, 500 m from the cave, 3 Gustavs sal (Gustav’s hall), named, natu- there is a spacious rest hostel owned by rally after Gustav Sjögren, is 10 m high, the municipality. It is equipped with a heat- 9 m deep, but only 1 m broad. ing stove. 2 No lamp or special clothing are required 4 For the more adventurous or well-trained, to go down into the 70 m long, 24 m high several exciting hours of crawling are pos- crevice. The ladders in the passage are sible in the parts of the caves which have brought up in the winter so they do not no facilities for assistance. get damaged by ice.

Schematic diagram of the caves and tourist path Viewed from the side UTGÅNGS- HÅLAN

BLINDTARMEN LENNARTS SAL 4

GUSTAVS SAL RABBES PINA Viewed from above 3 nedgångsskreva 2 BRITTAS SMALA GÅNG

Vägg i ned- Berg och gångsskreva stenblock grottskreva

staket

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Skuleskogen

This is the crown jewel of the county’s You may also see the rare Old Man’s protected nature reserves – a roadless Beard (see picture on the next page), wilderness of 30 square kilometres which can be found on the symbol for where the Baltic coast is at its steepest. the national park, and which the county In 1984, the government designated has a specific duty to protect. Skuleskogen as Sweden’s 19th national park. Skuleskogen is a year-round destination with attractive tours for those who are The spectacular views over the national looking for a short trip of a couple of park’s dramatic landscape and the sur- hours as well as for visitors who wish to rounding High Coast are one of the main spend several days in the national park. attractions. Another is the 7 metre wide, Over 30 kilometres of well-marked paths 30 metre deep “Hell Gap” crevice, which of varying degrees of difficulty lead you cleaves the Slåttdal mountain in two. to everything worth seeing and to cabins Many come here to study the fascinating which are available for overnight accom- flora as both mountain species and more modation throughout the year. southerly plants reach their range limits here.

78 Directions

The three entrances to the national park are well-marked from the E4. The turn-off for the main west entrance is five kilometres north of Skuleberget. For the southern entry, you turn off before Skuleberget, just north of Docksta. If you want to walk into the national park from the north, you need to turn off at Bjästa, twenty kilometres south of Örnsköldsvik. The road leading to the western entrance is cleared of snow in the winter.

The nature reserve was established 1984

Area [hectares] 3 062

The national park’s website www.skuleskogen.se

For a general map of the area, see pages 96-97.

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80 Points of interest in Skuleskogen

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From the national park’s main The impressive Slåttdal crevice The broken blue line on the western entrance, you come to is over a hundred metres long map and in the picture indi- a magnificent viewpoint, after and up to 30 metres deep in cates the highest coast line 700 metres of easy hiking (the places. There was previously (HC). This was the sea’s shore- path is suitable for wheelchairs). a seven metre wide footbridge line when the land was at its The western entrance is also here, but this has crumbled lowest, after the last ice age. good if you want to take a ski away and been washed away The boundary line is often tour in the park. The southern by the sea. The harder Nor- clear, with forested moraine entrance is the nearest to the dingrå granite cliffs still remain. above the HC and bare flat Slåttdal crevice. rocks beneath.

You are welcome to camp in the park, but for a maximum of three nights at the same place. From 1 May-30 September camping is only permitted at the locations stated on the map. The same applies to lighting fires, which is permitted throughout the park during the winter but only at prepared locations from 1 May-30 September. Through- 3 4 out the year, fires may only be lit with wood which you have The Lill-Ruten cabin is sparsely At Tärnättsundet there are brought with you or which is equipped but can be a haven if two cabins with heating stoves supplied. the cabin at Skrattabbortjärn is and four and six beds, respec- taken. It has six beds and a tively. Outside of Tärnättholmen, heating stove. there is a simpler rest hostel with two beds and a heating stove.

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At Skrattabborrtjärn, where By the tranquil Tärnättvattnen Out of Skuleskogen’s moun- previously there were mountain below the Slåttdal mountain, tain huts, only Näskebodarna huts, today there is an overnight there is a timbered overnight was used in the 1900s. A new cabin with six generous-sized cabin, which is equipped with six-bed cabin was opened here beds and a heating stove. four beds and a heating stove. in 2011 with the above view.

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Stockholmsgata Hiking along the paths of Stockholmsgata Directions gives a tremendous insight into the forces The nature reserve is sign-posted which were once released here and how the from road 348 at Solberg. water must have roared between the rock Coming from Västerbotten, it is sign- faces. posted from road 557, Åselevägen, at Häggsjömon, adjacent to Lakasjö. It was the melting of the inland ice more than After about five kilometres the road 9,000 years ago that brought about the glacial forks. If you head for Lakasjö, then you will need to walk for three kilo- river, which plunged into the valley and metres along a marked hiking path, in scooped out a weak section of the mountain. order to reach the reserve. If instead A canyon 1.5 kilometres long and 50 metres you take a left, past Hedlunda, then you can drive right up to the edge of deep was created. The nature reserve, which the reserve. we share with Västerbotten County, is a great destination if you want to experience exciting The nature reserve was established 1974 The Västerbotten section and nature and beautiful views. The southern part 1982 The Västernorrland section of the reserve is easily accessible; park just outside of the reserve and then take a stroll for a Area [hectares] 152 couple of hundred metres on a wooden ramp up to beautiful Uvtjärnen. For a general map of the area, see pages 100-101.

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Points of interest at Stockholmsgata

Close to Uvtjärn there is a little cabin with two beds and a heating stove. It was built and used as an overnight cabin by the artist Folke Ricklund, one of our great mountain painters, who was born in Anundsjö in 1900 and died in 1986. 1

Uvtjärnen. 83 municipality

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Trolltjärn It is not hard to see how this beautiful little Directions lake, idyllically situated between steep rock The reserve is situated at Lägsta, faces, has acquired its name – this really is a west of Remmarn. From road 352, bewitching place. Just like the Stockholms- Björna-vägen, it is sign-posted north of Nyliden. gata canyon (see page 82) 15 kilometres upstream, it was created by a powerful gla- If instead you come via road 348, cial river when the inland ice of the last ice then you turn off seven km south of Solberg and head for Nyåker. age was melting. In Nyåker, you first turn left and then, 200 metres later, right. After you have The lake is twelve metres deep and is surroun- passed Lägsta, the reserve is sign- ded by old pine forests which bear the scars of posted on the right. previous forest fires. The eldest and most un- The nature reserve was established spoiled forest can be found in the north-west 1982 of the reserve. On the cliff-face which rises out Area [hectares] of the lake beneath the northern viewpoint 56 (in the middle of the picture above), there is a rock painting which is estimated to be from For a general map of the area, see pages 100-101. the Neolithic (New Stone) Age – more about this on the next page.

84 Points of interest at Trolltjärn

The picture shows the rock painting depicting two moose which is on the north cliff-face of Trolltjärn. This was probably painted by someone who passed by here 5000-6000 years ago. The motif is typical and it tells us that the painter belonged to a people who were trappers and hunters. The colour used was red ochre, produced by the rusting of iron oxide which was sub- sequently mixed with some form of binding agent, such as fat or saliva. Today, archaeologists have mapped out over 40 such rock paintings in Sweden. Most of them are to be found here in Ångermanland. The painting lays a couple of metres above the water level and as such is difficult to reach other than in the winter. The rock painting is protected by law and may not be touched or affected in any other way.

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Trysunda The force of the weather and the sea can Directions be severe in the outer reaches of the High For those of you without your own Coast’s archipelago. Most days are peaceful boat, the passenger-boat M/F Ulvön and quiet, however, and it is this tranquillity serves the islands of Trysunda and Ulvön all year round from its base is which characterizes idyllic Trysunda – Köpmanholmen. Köpmanholmen lies considered by many to be Sweden’s most about twenty kilometres south of beautiful island. Örnsköldsvik, outside Bjästa. For an up-to-date timetable, please The fishing village was established in the 1500s see www.ornskoldsvikshamn.se. and is the best preserved in all of Ångerman- land. The island’s chapel dates back to the The nature reserve was established 1987 1650s and is embellished with fantastic murals. Less than 1,000 years ago, three straits (or Area [hectares] sounds) led into the protected harbour 932 – hence the name Trysunda. The land has For a general map of the area, now risen and only one creek is left. Small see pages 96-97. gravel roads and fine rambling paths lead from the harbour to the island’s spectacular vistas and shallow bathing coves.

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Points of interest at Trysunda

A/B/C Just a few hundred metres from the harbour lies Storviken (A), one of the most beautiful spots on the island. The beach here is covered with innumerable per- fectly polished red, white and grey stones. Up on the cliffs there is a place to barbecue with a fantastic view. If you continue along the northerly path through the forest you come to Björnviken’s fine white sandy beach (See picture B on 1 2 previous page) – the island’s Trysunda has a popular guest With your own boat or most popular bathing spot. If harbour with 25 berths, a ser- kayak you can get to know the you go further north you come vice building, shop and a youth reserve’s other islands. Here to Rödskateviken (C), where hostel. On the island there is is a picture of Skrubban’s 40 the sand is reddish and coarser also a fishing museum and metre high cliffs. The sea here and the water is often slightly refreshments are available for is the same depth as the height warmer. purchase. of the island. 87 municipality

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Vändåtberget Those of us at the county administrative Directions board who work with the nature reserve agree Vändåtberget’s nature reserve is sign- that Vändåtberget is our best recommenda- posted from Björnavägen, road 352, tion for those of you who long for forests five kilometres north of Nyliden. Before Locksta, you follow the signs with a minimum of tree-stumps and where and turn left. From here it is slightly there is a real feeling of wilderness. more than ten kilometres to a new road-sign which directs you to the A forest like this has its own, slow tempo. By reserve’s parking spaces.. our standards, it seems that time has stood still. The nature reserve was established The eldest pine trees are over four hundred 1989 years old and they may still have a long life Area [hectares] ahead of them. Then they may stand as dry 302 long-boled pines for three hundred years and finally lie on the ground for several more For a general map of the area, see pages 100-101. hundred years before they have completely rotted away. A millennium may have passed since the pine tree in the picture was a little sapling.

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Points of interest at Vändåtberget

Fire-damaged pines, like those in the picture, reveal the fact that the reserve has suffered fires in 1629, 1653, 1705, 1780, 1853 and 1933. Fires are pre- requisite for the existence of many plants and animals and 1 for this reason the county administrative board plans to Just over a kilometre south of the car-park, nicely located by the carry out controlled fires for Inner Abborrtjärnen, the reserve’s overnight cabin can be found. It conservation purposes in vari- is equipped with two generous-sized beds and a heating stove. ous parts of the reserve. 89 municipality

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Västanåhöjden It’s less than 15 kilometres from the sea, yet Directions you are still right up in the bare mountains Turn off the E4 at Bjästa, heading for when you stand on top of Västanåhöjden. Sidensjö. After a kilometre, turn The view from the 435 metre high mountain towards Kornsjö and drive on south to Kornsjösjön. At Bjällsta, you turn takes in the High Coast to the East and the left towards Hinnsjön and the Nätra Blue Mountains, inland to the West. mountain forest. After eight kilometres, you come to the parking Winter is high season for the reserve – the at Hinnsjön. Västanåbodarna restaurant opens and the ski- If you are approaching from the south, tracks are prepared. The ski-tracks are as they turn off the E4 at Skulnäs and head for used to be – one simple classic track, weaving Fjällåkern. Before Långnässjön, turn off towards Östmarkum and park at between trees heavy with snow in forests Skrikebodarna. untouched by modern forestry. Don’t worry about a lack of snow. With a depth of nearly The nature reserve was established 1997 two metres, measured in January 1967, this part of the county holds the Swedish record for Area [hectares] snowfall. The reserve was opened in 1997, pri- 177 marily to preserve the Old Man’s Beard, which For a general map of the area, is abundant here. see pages 96-97.

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Points of interest at Västanåhöjden

At Västanåhöjden there is The reserve has many moun- The protection of the Old more than 20 km of ski-tracks tain huts, many of which are Man’s Beard at Västanåhöjden which are prepared as soon as open, should you wish to take was one of the main reasons the snow is deep enough. Put a break for refreshments. At behind the establishment of your skis on at Skrikebodarna Västanåbodarna, just south of the nature reserve. There is an and you have just over four the reserve, you can purchase abundance of this tinsel-like kilometres up to Västanå- refreshments on early spring lichen along the reserve’s ski- bodarna. From Hinnsjön, it is weekends. There is also a tracks/hiking trails. just over ten kilometres. lovely overnight cabin here with two generous-sized beds and a wood-burning stove. 91 m a p g u i d e

Name Municipality Nr Name Municipality Nr Haverö strömmar Ånge 1 Rotsidan Kramfors 21 Björntjärn Ånge 2 Högbonden Kramfors 22 Helvetesbrännan Ånge 3 Norrfällsviken Kramfors 23 Jämtgaveln Ånge 4 Högklinten Kramfors 24 Salen Sundsvall 5 Skuleberget Kramfors 25 Brämön Sundsvall 6 Skuleskogen Kramfors/Övik 26 Högänge Sundsvall 7 Västanåhöjden Örnsköldsvik 27 Åstön Timrå 8 Balesudden Örnsköldsvik 28 Stornäset Sundsvall 9 Trysunda Örnsköldsvik 29 Indalsälvens delta Timrå 10 Granvågsniporna Sollefteå 30 Navarån Sundsvall 11 Gideåbergsmyrarna Sollefteå 31 Sundsjöåsen Sundsvall 12 Oringsjö/Mo-Långsjön Sollefteå 32 Gudmundtjärn Sundsvall 13 Nipsippan i Nässjö by Sollefteå 33 Västanåfallet Härnösand 14 Långvattnet Sollefteå 34 Rigåsen Sundsvall 15 Skallbergsgrottorna Örnsköldsvik 35 Älgberget-Björnberget Kramfors 16 Kålhuvudet Örnsköldsvik 36 Icktjärnsberget Kramfors 17 Vändåtberget Örnsköldsvik 37 Brånsån Härnösand 18 Trolltjärn Örnsköldsvik 38 Smitingen/Härnöklubb Härnösand 19 Stockholmsgata Örnsköldsvik 39 Storön Kramfors 20

92 Jämtgaveln Helvetesbrännan Haverö strömmar Haverö Björntjärn

93 m a p g u i d e Brånsån Icktjärnsberget Västanåfallet Älgberget-Björnberget Rigåsen Gudmundtjärn Sundsjöåsen Navarån

94 Brämön Åstön Salen Stornäset Indalsälvens delta Indalsälvens Navarån Högänge

95 m a p g u i d e Trysunda Balesudden Norrfällsviken Skuleskogen Högklinten Skuleberget Västanåhöjden

96 Högbonden Rotsidan Storön Smitingen/Härnöklubb Brånsån Icktjärnsberget

97 m a p g u i d e Långvattnet Nipsippans naturreservat

98 Granvågsniporna Oringsjö/Mo-Långsjön Gideåbergsmyrarna

99 m a p g u i d e Kålhuvudet Vändåtberget Trolltjärn Stockholmsgatorna

10 0 Skallbergsgrottorna

101

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