Tasar VCA-Bihar

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) Tasar Value Chain Analysis

Bihar

Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Central Silk Board (CSB)

Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Study commissioned by Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, Central Silk Board (CSB), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, and PRADAN

Study conducted by Soumik Banerjee Sundarpahari Godda-814156, Jharkhand November 2016

Cover photographs Top left - Nucleus grainage managed by Banvasi Cooperative at Lilavaran, Banka District Top right - Daba tasar larva in different colours with rearer at Bhorsar, Banka district Bottom left - Varieties of tasar yarns (l-r) reeled, Ghicha and Katia at Katoria, Banka district Bottom right - Bawan Booti sari weaving at Nepura, Nalanda district

Printed and published by: Central Silk Board, Bangalore and PRADAN

Design of the study template and special inputs by: Dr. K. Sathyanarayana, Central Silk Board Md. Shamshad Alam, PRADAN

Disclaimer

Central Silk Board (CSB) or PRADAN do not make any warranty, either express or implied, or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or any third party’s use or the results of such use of any information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed of the information contained herein or represent that its use would not infringe privately owned rights. The views and opinions of the authors expressed herein do not necessarily state or reflect those of the CSB/ PRADAN. While every effort has been made to ensure the correctness of data/information used in this report, neither the authors nor CSB/ PRADAN accept any legal liability for the accuracy or inferences drawn from the material contained therein or for any consequences arising from the use of this material. The information pertaining to facts and data presented in this study are dated as specified, and CSB/PRADAN are not responsible or liable for any misimpressions that may result from the reading of dated material.Text from this document can be quoted provided the source is acknowledged.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis Bihar

Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Central Silk Board (CSB)

Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table of Contents Chapter Chapter title Page number number Foreword 5 Executive Summary 6 1 Introduction 9 2 Methodology 14 3 Cocoon Production 15 4 Yarn Conversion 48 5 Value Chain Analysis 79 6 Conclusions and 92 Recommendations References 94 Acknowledgements 95 List of Respondents 96

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Foreword

It is heartening to note that the tasar culture is drawing attention from various stakeholders in recent times, with its potential to achieve many of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) defined by the United Nations, leading to creation of sustainable livelihood opportunities. One such major convergence initiatives is a project under Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)-NTFP for the ‘Promotion of Large Scale Tasar Sericulture-based Livelihoods in the state of Bihar’ coordinated by the Central Silk Board (CSB), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and co-funded by the Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, and implemented by the NGO, Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN) since October 2013.

The ‘Silk Value Chain’ concept considers the manner in which value is added along the chain, both to the product/service and the actors involved. From a sustainability perspective, ‘Silk Value Chain’ has more appeal, since it explicitly refers to internal and external stakeholders in the value-creation process viz., production, processing and marketing along with linkages amongst different nodes of the value chain. Further, developing a state-wise Value Chain Analysis (VCA) of the tasar sub- sector and devising an action plan for a suitable role of the intervening organisation across the major tasar states will help towards sustenance of the value chain players and activities.

I am happy that the much awaited silk value chain analysis studies have been taken up under these projects, which will bring out constraints and opportunities faced by the various stakeholders placed at different location/nodes of the chain to review current policies, identify limitations and barriers with focus on subsidies and pricing and suggest possible areas of convergence and the need for advocacy to facilitate the tasar sub-sector.

I appreciate the efforts of Dr. K. Sathyanarayana, Scientist-D & Project Coordinator, CSB, and Mr. Mohd. Shamshad Alam, Integrator-Tasar, PRADAN, in coordinating the study and bringing out this publication, ‘Tasar Value Chain Analysis: Bihar’. I also thank Mr. Soumik Banerjee who carried out the study and all the partners for their cooperation during the study. I strongly hope that this document will help the state government to review current policies and strengthen the areas of convergence towards the socio-economic upliftment of the participating families in the tasar sector.

I extend my best wishes for the successful implementation of the tasar projects for the benefit of the tribal communities of India.

Dr. H. Nagesh Prabhu, I.F.S Member Secretary Central Silk Board

Place: Bangalore Date: 01.05.2017

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Executive Summary

Documenting the current status of tasar cocoon and yarn production systems and the state of value chain in principal clusters, the Tasar Value Chain Analysis (VCA) for the state of Bihar aims to understand the scope and present limitations towards developing a robust action plan for the ongoing ‘Promotion of Large-scale Tasar Sericulture-based Livelihoods in Bihar’ project. The project falls under Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) which is a subcomponent of National Rural Livelihood Mission (NRLM) of Ministry of Rural Development (Government of India).

The study was conducted in the principal tasar rearing villages of Banka district and weaving clusters of Bhagalpur, Banka, Nalanda, Nawada and Gaya districts of Bihar.

The study involved a combination of field surveys and secondary literature review, where the field surveys formed the primary data for analysis while the secondary literature review provided an understanding of the tasar sub-sector as a whole. This involved discussions and interviews with key informants and resource persons and visits to villages, rearing plots, grainages, cooperative societies, village markets, weaver clusters, outlets, export houses, resource institutions, experts, practitioners, processing units, etc.

Based on the data, a value chain analysis and sub-sector mapping of activities of various actors was carried out to determine the value added and margins of different actors. A price spread analysis was carried out, from the rearing of basic disease-free laying (DFL) to the production of reeled yarn. The study then moved on to develop a constraint and SWOT analysis of the tasar sub-sector. Finally, based on the analysis and assessments, certain broad interventions have been suggested for the implementing organisation.

The study was commissioned by Central Silk Board (CSB), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, and Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN), the field implementing agency for MKSP project.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Key findings

Key findings of the value chain analysis are presented in Table E1 below:

Families engaged in tasar livelihoods 6,500 (2015-16) Average production ~ 41 MT (2015-16) Principal production clusters Banka Eco-races Daba bivoltine (BV) Plantations State - 11,000 ha of forests, gap filing 6,120 ha, 4,270 ha (private land); PRADAN - 1,447 ha Basic DFLs Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centre (BSM&TC) - 40,725; Pilot Project Centre (PPC) Inaravaran - 8,100; PRADAN - 52,451, reared - 23,455 Seed rearers BSM&TC- 130, PPC Inaravaran - 150, PRADAN - 145 Seed cocoon production BSM&TC- 2.3 lakh, PRADAN - 12,56,250 Basic DFL : seed cocoon ratio PRADAN - 1:54 Commercial private grainage PPC Inaravaran - 110, PRADAN - 97 Commercial DFLs PRADAN - 2,58,930 produced and 1,71,000 reared Commercial rearers PPC Inaravaran - 215, PRADAN - 1,488 Commercial cocoons PRADAN - 1,08,75,060 Commercial DFL : cocoon ratio 1:42 Mean Lifting Price Seed cocoons - Rs 2/piece and commercial cocoons - Rs 2.75/piece Cocoon to yarn conversion Reelable - 1g/cocoon ; Flimsy - 0.39 g/cocoon; Pierced - 0.44 g/cocoon Families engaged in post-cocoon activities ~ 4500 Reelers and spinners in principal weaving Bhagalpur region ~900, Gaya region ~ 400, EcoTasar- 60 spinners clusters Yarn produced in principal weaving clusters Reeled yarn: Bhagalpur cluster* - 0.7 MT, Gaya cluster* - 2 MT; Spun yarn: Bhagalpur cluster - 0.6 MT and Gaya cluster - 1.4 MT Yardage in principal weaving clusters Bhagalpur cluster - 20,000 m and Gaya cluster - 55,000 m Price of yarns Reeled yarn - Rs 5,200/kg, Ghicha yarn - Rs 2,700/kg, Bhand Katia - Rs 700/kg Wage rate of reelers, etc. Reelers - Rs 60, spinners - Rs 65, Katia spinners - Rs 22 Major markets Mostly converted to fabrics. Local and Bhagalpur, Patna, Kolkata, Delhi, Exports Value chain- Pre-cocoon Input - 14%, rearing - 61%, assembling and marketing - 25% Net margin - Pre-cocoon Seed rearer - 7%, Graineurs - 4%, Commercial rearer - 89% Value added - Pre-cocoon 4 (8 g) of basic DFLs when reared yields 160 BV-1 seed cocoons which, when processed in grainage, yields 38 (76 g) commercial DFLs which, when further reared, yields 1,000 reelable cocoons. Apart from this, it yields 266 unreelable cocoons, 144 pierced cocoons and 324 g of peduncles. Value chain- Post-cocoon Input - 83%, processing - 11%, assembling, marketing, etc.- 6% Net margin - Post-cocoon Reelers - 85%, spinners - 11%, Katia spinners - 4% Value added - Post-cocoon 1,000 cocoons are reeled into 1 kg of yarn by reelers generating 200 g of reel waste (pheti). The 410 unreelable cocoons are spun into 202 g of Ghicha yarn and 54 g of spun waste (guddar); the 254 g reel and spun waste and 324 g of peduncles are further processed into 433 g of Bhand Katia along with 87 g of the final waste. Employment generated per actor for 100 kg 100 kg of reeled yarn - 8,290 person days of employment (3,150 person of reeled yarn (person days) days as per minimum wages of Rs 197 per day for unskilled work) are generated, with 85% of the share commanded by cocoon production and remaining by yarn conversion. Apart from this, it also generates 8.7 kg of Katia waste which is sold by traders, generating additional livelihoods.

* Bhagalpur cluster - EcoTasar, Dumrama and Katoria; Gaya Cluster - Manpur, Nepura, Bihar Sharif and Kadirganj

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Suggested interventions

Based on the findings, analysis and observations, the following interventions are suggested as presented in Table E2:

Pre-cocoon Post-cocoon  Protection of existing forest cover  Building and increasing outreach of raw materials  Increased host plant plantations in both private bank, yarn bank and forest wastelands and gap filing  Machines for reeling and spinning based on  Nurturing and empowering community-led weaver needs and market organisations  Training, capacity building and exposure to new  Increased engagement and outreach of technologies and best practices Department of Sericulture (DoS) and agencies  Incentivise tasar yarn production like Jeevika  Develop hub-and-spoke model for loom-ready  Production of quality DFL in Pilot Project tasar Centres (PPCs)  Utilise wastes to increase remuneration of reelers  Recruitment of staff in DoS and other allied  Value addition and development of range of departments designs  Minimum selling price (MSP) on commercial  Vegetable dyeing and blending cocoon  Mobilising community institutions especially  Cocoon procurement based on shell weight SHGs  Creation and improvement of infrastructure for  Participatory Guarantee System (PGS) for cocoon stifling and storage genuinely organic handmade silk  Supportive policies towards habitat  Supportive policies and incentives for enterprises conservation  Increased outreach and service delivery of welfare  Convergence and collaboration with existing schemes programmes of Mahatma Gandhi National  Skill upgradation and motivation for youth Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA),  Demonstration of emerging new technology in Forest Department, etc. post-cocoon activities

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

1. Introduction

1.1 Value chain analysis and study background

The term Value Chain Analysis (VCA) is used to refer to the overall group of economic agents (or the relevant activities of those agents) who contribute directly to the determination of a final product. Thus the chain encompasses the complete sequence of operations which, starting from the raw material, or an intermediate product, finishes downstream, after several stages of transformation or increases in value, at one or several final products at the level of the consumer More precisely, it is used to mean the group of agents who contribute directly to the production, then to the transformation and delivery to final market of a single agriculture product.

Value chain analysis is a concept of business management that was popularised by Michel Porter in 1985. Products pass through all activities of the chain in order, with the products gaining some value at each activity. The chain of activities gives the products more added value than the sum of added values of all the activities. The primary activities for commodity value chains include input logistics, operations (production), outbound logistics, marketing and sales and services. The support activities include administrative infrastructure, management, human resource management, technology and procurement. The costs and value drivers are identified for each value activity. This is depicted by Fig 1.1 below:

Fig 1.1 - Value Chain Analysis

The dominant idea behind the economic analysis of commodity chains is to lay out the overall activities of all the participants, or agents who contribute to the production and/or transformation of a given commodity. This involves:

• Identifying the outline of the chain and the position of the various agents within it, and

• Developing the economic accounts corresponding to the activities of the agents involved in the chain.

This reduction of activities and operations to their monetary value makes this economic technique a powerful tool of analysis. It allows for the use of commodity chain analysis to produce properly quantified and significant results, calculations at new levels of aggregation, sensitivity and simulation analyses, and interpret these results at the macroeconomic level.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

It has four interconnected steps (Fig 1.2): data collection and research, value chain mapping, analysis of opportunities and constraints, and vetting of findings with stakeholders with recommendations for future actions.

Fig 1.2 - Steps in value chain mapping

1. Collection of data: This would include two parts; desk research (secondary literature, web-based research, earlier studies and policy documents, etc.) and field research (interviews, focused group discussions with stakeholder groups, observations of key processes of the different stakeholders with suitable case studies). 2. Value chain mapping: Value chain mapping is the process of developing a visual depiction of the basic structure of the value chain. A value chain map illustrates the way the product flows from raw material to end markets and presents how the activity functions. It is a compressed visual diagram of the data collected at different stages of the value chain analysis and supports the narrative description of the chain. 3. SWOT analysis: This uses the value chain framework as the lens to analyse the gathered data through. The framework is a useful tool to identify systemic chain-level issues rather than focus on activity-level problems. While interviews give the chance to gather information from individual stakeholders, the value chain framework helps to organise this information in such a way that the analysis moves from a stakeholder-level to a chain-level perspective. Using a tabular format, these factors of the value chain framework can be evaluated to establish opportunities for upgrading and the constraints to taking advantage of these opportunities. 4. Vetting findings: This uses value chain analysis through a through a structured event of presentation of reports to facilitate discussion with and among selected stakeholders. The event should include facilitated discussions, review and adjustments of the value chain map and a review of the SWOT analysis table and finally, the development of an action plan for the intervention organisation.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The present study aims to develop a value chain analysis (VCA) of tasar sub-sector and devise an action plan for the intervening organisation for the state of Bihar.

The main objectives of the study are:

 Develop value chain map for tasar sub-sector in Bihar, with primary focus on the stages till yarn conversion and strategic suggestions for the remaining nodes of value chain.  Identify major stakeholders and develop a cost analysis in the entire value chain in terms of production, processing and marketing along with linkages among different nodes of the value chain.  Understand the context of the stakeholders and the production status in the tasar sub-sector.  Identify the constraints and opportunities faced by the various stakeholders placed at different location/nodes of the chain.  Review current policies, identifying limitations and barriers with focus on subsidies and pricing, and suggest possible areas of convergence and need for advocacy to facilitate the sub-sector.  Review role and limitations of existing institutions and identify possible partnerships towards convergence.  Identify factors that strengthen community institutions towards re-investments and creation of corpus.  Identify integration with other existing livelihood programmes contributing towards overall well-being of the families.

 Identify scope and intervention areas based on the ground realities.

1.2 Silk and tasar

Silk is a natural protein fibre composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larva to form cocoons. Silk is produced from a number of insects, but only the silk produced by the larva of silk moth has been used for textile manufacturing. Silk is named in legends, fables and folklores and its superiority has been recognised since time immemorial – the luxurious look, softness and sleekness and lustre of silk fabric have given silk the sobriquet ‘Queen of Fibres’.

Silk fabric was developed in ancient China; the earliest example is from 3,630 BCE where it was used to wrap the body of a child in Xingyan in the Henah province. There is a legend on how 14-year-old Chinese Empress Lei-Tzu (2,640 BCE) called the ‘Goddess of silkworms’, was once sitting under a mulberry tree in the Imperial garden when a cocoon dropped into her hot cup of tea and softened, unravelling a glistening thread from within. Silks were initially reserved for the emperors of China but spread gradually throughout Chinese culture and trade and on to many regions of Asia, both geographically and socially.

Archaeological discoveries in Harappa and Chanhudaro shows that silk from wild species were used in India during the Indus Valley Civilisation (2,450-2,000 BCE). It is suggested that Harappans either harvested wild silkworm cocoons or traded with people who did and had extensive knowledge on silk.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Currently, India is the second largest producer of silk in the world, after China; as per the International Sericulture Commission, 1.59 lakh MT of raw silk was produced globally in 2013, with China commanding an 81% share and India a 17% share at 26,538 MT. Between 2008 and 2013, the raw silk production increased at about 6% annually. Silk export earnings in 2013-14 were Rs 2,481 crore (60% from fabrics). The silk industry provides employment to over 7.85 million people across 51,000 villages in the country.

The natural silks are classified into mulberry and non-mulberry; the non-mulberry silks are primarily known as Vanya or wild silks which primarily comprise of tasar (tropical and temperate), Muga, Eri and Anaphe. Tasar commands 10% share of the total raw silk produced in India and has shown an impressive growth of more than four times since 2008-09.

Table 1.1 below shows the details of tasar production (in MT) in principal states and the trends of growth:

State 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 Andhra Pradesh 13 10 4 1.33 0.64 0.46 NA NA Bihar 16 27 30 29.4 7.3 32 32.95 41 Chhattisgarh 147 161 168 293.8 384.9 384 225.39 254 Jharkhand 296 404 766 1,025.2 1,088.3 2,000 1,943.30 2,281 Madhya Pradesh 30.1 74 79.2 79.2 83 86 59 56 Maharashtra 4.2 8 12.3 12.3 9.75 10 18.97 21.50 Odisha 57 71 89.7 89.7 95 45 88.30 107 Uttar Pradesh 4.1 6 10.8 10.8 12.3 14 18.04 20.23 West Bengal 31.2 37 43.9 43.9 43.8 42 43.05 34 Total 598.6 798 1,203.9 1,585.7 1,724.9 2,613.46 2,429 2,814 Source: Central Tasar Research & Training Institute (CTR&TI), Ranchi; MIS quarterly reports of Departments of Sericulture NA: Not available

A belt of dense, humid deciduous Sal forests sprawling over central and eastern plateaus at an elevation of about 600 m, covering 7.7 million ha (hectares), is the traditional home of tasar, primarily in the states of Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Bihar and West Bengal. Minor amounts of temperate (oak) tasar are also produced in Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland as well as Uttarakhand.

Tasar silk is secreted by several species of the genus Antheraea. India has eight species of this out of which Antheraea mylitta D has been exploited commercially and is the chief producer of tasar silk. It exists in the form of 20 eco-races of uni, bi and trivoltine nature. Tasar filaments have a golden lustre and are coarser, stronger and shorter than mulberry silk.

Jharkhand has 81% of the total share with a production of 2,281 MT; the state has shown an impressive growth of more than six-fold in 2015-16 from around 300 MT in 2008-09. Chhattisgarh is a distant second at 254 MT, with 9% share, followed by Odisha. Bihar commands the 5th position with regards to tasar production in the country, with 41 MT of raw silk production.

Even though production has greatly increased, the demand continues to exceed supply by about 5,000 MT which is primarily obtained from China.

Tasar rearing is one of the traditional supplementary livelihoods of indigenous communities in Jharkhand, Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Odisha and West Bengal. From the time of the Roman Empire, silk from Bengal have enchanted people globally.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

1.3 Area profile

Bihar is the 13th largest state in India, with an area of 94,163 sq km, with the third largest population of 10,38,04,637 people (Census 2011). It bordered by Uttar Pradesh in the west, Nepal in the north and West Bengal and Jharkhand on the east and south. About 85% of the population lives in the villages and 58% of the population are aged below 25 years, making it the state with the highest number of young persons in the country.

Bihar has a diverse climate. Its temperature is subtropical in general, with hot summers and cool winters. Bihar is a vast stretch of fertile plain (average elevation of 53 m) drained by the Ganga and its northern tributaries, Gandak and Koshi, that regularly flood parts of the Bihar plains. The Ganga divides Bihar into two unequal halves and flows through the middle from west to east. Though the Himalayas begin at the foothills, a short distance inside Nepal and to the north of Bihar, the mountains influence Bihar's landforms, climate, hydrology and culture. Central parts of Bihar have small hills, such as the Rajgir hills; the Chota Nagpur plateau lies to the south.

Bihar has notified forest area of 6,764.14 km2 which is 7.2% of its geographical area. The sub-Himalayan foothill of Someshwar and the Dun ranges in the Champaran district are another belt of moist, deciduous forests. The vegetation also includes scrub, grass and reeds. Here, the rainfall is above 1,600 mm, promoting luxuriant Sal forests in the area. Deciduous forests also occur in the Saharsa and Purina districts. Shorea Robusta (Sal), Diospyros melanoxylon (Kendu), Boswellia serrata (Salai), Terminalia tomentosa (Asan), Terminalia bellerica (Bahera), Terminalia Arjuna (Arjuna), Pterocarpus Marsupium (Paisar),Madhuca indica (Mahua) are the common flora across the forest of Bihar.

Bihar has 38 districts and nine divisions; the literacy rate is 64% and the sex ratio is 919. About 0.9% of the population constitutes the Schedule Tribes and 16% the Schedule Castes. Agriculture is the leading occupation in the state with rice as the main crop; Bihar is the largest producer of vegetables and the second largest producer of fruits in India. Eighty per cent of the state population is engaged in agriculture, constituting 22% of the state GDP. The main agricultural produce are Rice, wheat, sugarcane, brinjal, okra, cauliflower, cabbage, litchi, guava, mango and pineapple. Though good soil and climatic conditions such as good rainfall favour agriculture, Bihar encounters threat from flooding which may drain off the fertile soil, if not conserved properly. The state (mostly the southern parts) faces droughts almost every year which affects production of crops such as paddy. Table 1.2 below presents the administrative and revenue units of Bihar.

Area Population Divisions Districts Blocks Panchayats Villages 94,163 10,38,04,637 9 38 534 8,463 45,103

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

2. Methodology

The study involved a combination of field surveys and secondary literature review. The field surveys formed the primary data for analysis while the secondary information provided understanding of the sub-sector as a whole. Due to the nature of the study, no structured formats were used and instead, qualitative and quantitative investigative tools with checklists for different stakeholders were used. This provided meaningful insights into how the rearers, graineurs, traders, reelers, weavers and service providers perceive the issues and deal with specific solutions. The exercise involved discussions with key informants and resource persons and visits to villages, rearing plots, grainages, Tasar Vikas Samitis (TVS), village markets, weaver clusters, outlets, resource institutions, experts, practitioners, processing units, etc.

Table 2.1 below shows the different stakeholders visited and interviewed during the study: Stakeholders Locations Tasar rearers and CBOs Bhorsar, Pipradih (Katoria block, Banka district), Modikura, Arpathar, Janakpur, Jogmaran, Suggitarn (Chandan block, Banka district) and Lilavaran (Katoria block, Banka district) Plantations Modikura, Arpathar (Chandan block, Banka district) Traders Banka and Katoria Weaver clusters and Bhagalpur, Chandankothi (Banka district), Dumrama, Katoria (Amarpur block, Banka spinners district), Manpur (Gaya district), Nepura, Bihar Sharif (Nalanda district) and Kadirganj (Nawada district) Institutions, NGOs and Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centre (BSM&TC), Bhagalpur; Raw Material Bank government (RMB), Bhagalpur; Demonstration Cum Technical Service Centre (DCTSC), Bhagalpur; departments Weavers’ Service Centre (WSC), Bhagalpur; Pilot Production Centre (PPC), Inaravaran, Department of Sericulture (DoS), Patna; Bihar Rural Livelihoods Promotion Society (BRLPS), Patna; EcoTasar, Bhagalpur and Saraiyahaat (Jharkhand); PRADAN Banka; Banvasi Tasar Kitpalak Cooperative, Lilavaran (Banka district); private dyeing units in Bhagalpur

The main tools used during the study were key informant interviews, focused group discussions (FGDs) and validation (with farmers), observations and assessments with semi-structured probing guidelines, and checklists. Along with this, secondary data was collected from previous studies, books and resource organisations.

Plate 2.1 - Interacting with a rearer at a tasar plantation in Modikura, Banka district

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3. Cocoon Production

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.1 Background and history

Bihar is the 5th largest producer of tasar in the country, contributing 41 MT of tasar raw silk production (2015-16). Production of raw silk has been fluctuating with yields reaching 30 MT in 2010-11 and falling to just 7.3 MT in 2012-13. Tasar rearing has always been one of the important traditional occupations of the indigenous communities primarily in the eastern districts of the state – Banka and partly in Munger and Nawada, bordering Jharkhand, which produce most of the cocoons, as shown in Fig 3.1. PRADAN has been promoting tasar in Banka district since early 1990s – there are Fig 3.1- Tasar clusters in Bihar 1,151 families engaged in tasar rearing, producing 55.69 lakh Tasar cluster cocoons annually (2013-14).

Tasar has been reared in the forests of Banka (Chandan and Katoria blocks) by indigenous communities (Santhals, Ghatwals) since time immemorial, providing them with supplementary livelihoods. The earliest accounts are provided Dr. Buchanan Hamilton in 1810, of tasar rearing in Bhagulpoor (now Bhagalpur) district, where he mentions tasar rearing in Chandan forests as well as in Tarapur and Faizalgunj in Munger. A report published by Government of Bengal, 1877, reported that the south of Bhagalpur district was a tasar habitat. However, much of the cocoons that went into the highly developed weaving clusters in around Bhagalpur and Gaya were obtained from parts of Jharkhand (Santhal Parganas, Hazaribagh and Palamau districts) and parts of Bengal (Bankura, Manbhum and Birbhum districts).

3.2 Races and traditional rearing practices

Dr. Bucahnan Hamilton in 1810 had mentioned four types of tasar being reared in the area: Daba, Sarihan, Jarhan and Laugga. In Bangka, the Daba was dubbed to be best type of tasar among the four and its wild seeds were collected by forest dwelling communities in the months of May and June and sold to traders who made them available to the rearers. The other varieties Sarihan, Jarhan and Laugga were generally considered inferior to Daba. However, in Tarapur (Munger district), it was reported that some good quality cocoons of cultivated Daba were retained in the last cycle and used as seed in the coming year; if this was lost due to some reason, the rearers resorted to wild cocoons from the forests. Being bi-voltine, the second crop was used for commercial purposes. Even though Sarihan produced 25% less yarn than Daba, the quality of its yarn was considered superior. The traders used to advance credit to the rearers who would settle it at the time of harvest. Currently, Daba (Antherea mylitta D) is the only eco-race being reared in the state; primarily, bi-voltine (BV) Daba is the dominant variety.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.1 shows the salient features of the races found in the area.

Eco-race Peduncle Cocoon Cocoon Pupal Shell Silk ratio Filament Denier* length volume weight weight weight length cm cc g g g % m Daba 4.7 30.40 11.16 9.96 1.20 10.75 737 10 Sarihan 4.5 14.32 6.89 6.18 0.71 10.30 533 9 *(linear mass density of fibres)

Source: Jolly et al, Non Mulberry Silks, FAO

In the traditional practice reported by Dr. Buchanan Hamilton (1810), the first wild cocoons were collected from the Asan (Terminalia tomentosa) trees scattered across the forests (each rearer collected 20 to 30 such cocoons) in May-June, or, alternatively, preserved seed cocoons were used. The seed cocoons were placed on large flat baskets and as the moth emerged, they were allowed to couple. After 15 to 20 hours, the males were removed and the 20-25 impregnated females were placed in cylindrical baskets with a narrow mouth which was covered with leaves on top and the bottom; in some cases earthen pots were also used. In the course of the day, the female laid the eggs which were further transferred to cups made from bhelwa (Semacarpus anacardium) leaves. The female moths were thrown away and on the ninth day, as the eggs hatched, they were placed on the Asan trees in the rearing plot, addabari where the larva immediately spread. When all the leaves were consumed, they were transferred to other trees in about 36 days and finally, the cocoon spinning was initiated. Within the next 15 days, the cocoons were harvested. During the course of rearing, predatory birds and insects were kept away using sticky traps, sling shots, etc. The rearing field was cleared of shrubs and bushes and the large branches of the Asan tree cut so that new shoots would grow resulting in succulent leaves. The host trees were allowed to grow new shoots for a year. The rearers observed strict abstinence during the rearing cycle. They ate a simple vegetarian diet once a day, washed their own clothes and did not shave or trim nails. Women were strictly prohibited from anywhere near the rearing fields.

In Bhagulpoor, 405 cocoons (5 pons) cost Re 1 in 1810. A century later, the cost rose by double with 200 cocoons priced at Re 1 (1910), while Ber (Zizhyphus mauritiana) cocoons (Bari) were sold at Re 1 for 300 pieces. Each cocoon yielded 10.2 troy grains of silk (0.66 g), while those from Ber tree yielded 7.6 grains (0.49 grams). A cloth of 4 to 5 yards (3.6 m to 4.5 m) long and 1.25 yards (1.14 m) wide could be produced from 700 to 1,000 cocoons, which would sell at Rs 8-10 (in 1910). Apart from weaving cloth, the cocoons would be cut into strips and used to tie matchlocks or as tobacco boxes and bells in woodcutters’ knife belt.

Zamindars used to take cess of 5 annas (~ 31 paise) per head for rearing of tasar in a season in 1877. In 1886-87, M/s R Watson & Co had purchased Rs 20,000 worth of tasar cocoons from Bhagulpoor.

Traditional rearers in Bhorsar (Banka) reported that Sarihan was the eco-races reared earlier. The seed cocoons were brought from Giridih, and garlands of four cocoons grouped together were hung in the verandah. After about 21 days, around midnight, the moths emerged and the males flew away. The female moths were taken to the nearby rearing fields in nets, where the male moths would come to couple after an hour. The moths were decoupled by early morning and the females were kept in leaf envelopes for laying the eggs. In nine days, the eggs would hatch into larvae which were then released onto the host trees in the addabari. Sling shots of different types and sticky traps were used to ward off predators.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The production used to vary from as high as 16 khari (25,600 pieces) to just 14 pons (1,120 pieces). According to the local traders, there has been no production of Sarihan in the area since 2005.

3.3 Host plants

Asan (Terminalia tomentosa) is the primary host plant for tasar rearing in this region. Asan is a large deciduous tree with a clean bole and full crown. It is one of the most common of Indian forest trees and attains a girth of 12 feet (3.65 m) or more. It grows to a height of over 100 feet (30.4 m) in favourable clayey soils but is stunted in dry, rocky ground and other unfavourable conditions. It is usually found in the Sal (Shorea robusta) forests along with other associates of Dhaura (Anogeissus latifolia), Lagerstroemia parviflora, Terminalia bellirica (bahera), and Adina cardifolia (Haldu), etc. Asan is one of the important companion species in the dry peninsular Sal forests (5B/C1c) in the tasar rearing tracts.

In tasar rearing fields, it is extensively pollarded; the species demands light and is suppressed in shade. Medium size trees coppice and pollard well, but the coppicing power of trees with girth above four feet (1.22 m) is poor. Coppicing of shoots is high in April-May as compared to July -September. Seventy per cent of the trees show coppice shoots of 1 to 9 per stool. Natural reproduction occurs in abundance of light, fair degree of soil moisture, bare ground and loose soil in the absence of sodden grass and weeds. Plantations can be established through direct sowing of seeds, though transplanting from nursery gives a better survival rate and growth. Sal and Dhaura are also used as host plants to rear the worms in advanced stages whenever Asan is not available. The cocoons reared in Dhaura and Sal trees show a characteristic blackish appearance.

Department of Sericulture, Patna reported that 11,000 ha of forests in the state are under tasar rearing. Most of the rearing takes place in forest lands in Asan patches called addabari, with each rearer having 1,000 to 5,000 trees. Apart from this, Sal, Dhaura (Anogeissus latifolia) and Siddha (Lagestromia parviflora) trees are also used as secondary hosts. No systematic pruning or pollarding of the host trees are carried out regularly, except during harvesting. In Arpathar village (Chandan block, Banka district), pollarding was reported to be carried once in two to three years. Forest guards and officials oppose such practices, but rearers continue anyway. In Pipradih village (Katoria block, Banka district), rearers were reported be fined 8 pons (640 cocoons) by the forest guard.

Plate 3.1 - Rearing forests in Bhorsar, Banka

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The rearers have not been provided any tools like secateurs or saw for pruning. They use the traditional dao (sickle) for carrying out cocoon harvesting and lopping of the trees, along with the axe. Incidences of gall infection are also rare in the forests. Gator sprayer has been provided by PRADAN to rearer’s groups or at the village level. Similarly, Rogor (Dimethoate) was provided to rearers in Bhorsar village (Katoria block, Banka district) by PRADAN.

Most of the rearers do not carry out manuring of the host trees in the forest except in Bhorsar village (Banka district) where DAP, urea and MoP were reported to have been provided by PRADAN.

There are 2,000 ha of plantations in the state, and the Mukhya Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP) 2012 to 2017 plans to cover 8,030 ha of forest land under gap filling and 5,200 ha of private lands under tasar plantation. Till the end of 2015, about 6,120 ha of forest land and 2,270 ha of private land have already been taken up under the programme for tasar host tree plantation (mainly Terminalia Arjuna or Arjuna).

Plate 3.2 - New plantations under MMTVP in Banka district

PRADAN has promoted tasar plantations across 1,447 ha in Banka district under different projects supported by Special Swarnjayanti Gram Swarozgar Yojana (SGSY), National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD) and currently under MKSP.

In Modikura village (Chandan block, Banka district), a series of Arjuna plantations were developed by PRADAN since 2004 across 70 acres, with about 65,000 plants. On an average, a rearer group uses 6,000 to 7,000 plants each (4 ft x 4 ft spacing). It was reported that light pruning using secateurs (provided by PRADAN) was done in the plantations.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Gator sprayer has been provided at the village level along with Rogor (Dimethoate). The rearers reported intermittent infections of gall in the plantations which however were not persistent. PRADAN also provided urea to some of the rearers in Modikura.

Plate 3.3 - Plantations at Modikura (Banka district)

In Arpathar village (Chandan block, Banka district), a 50-ha plantation has been developed on private land under MMTVP with 20% contribution from the community. This community contribution is to be used for plantation maintenance later.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 3.4- Plantation at Arpathar (Banka district)

The quality of cocoons are better when reared on Asan trees in the forests, yielding 200 g more yarn per 1,000 cocoons as compared to cocoons reared on Arjuna trees cocoons in plantations.

Under the NABARD-Tribal Development Fund (TDF) programme implemented by PRADAN, 900 acres of plantations were to be raised along with grainages for seed production in Banka district (2008-2014). A similar project was sanctioned for Jami district covering 1,385 families.

The principal issues with regards to forests and plantations are:

 Declining forest cover and host trees  Host trees sparsely located, with large inter-tree distances  Threat of attack by nocturnal predators like bats and owls in forests  Theft of matured larva and cocoons at night in forest-rearing fields.  Increasing attacks from predators like wasps and birds  Conflicts with forest committees and staff  Limited provisions for plantation maintenance

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.4 Basic seed

The Basic Tasar Silkworm Seed Organisation (BTSSO) was established in 1998-99 with the objective of strengthening the tasar sub-sector by vitalising a three-tier seed multiplication system. Its primary objectives are production of nucleus and basic tasar silkworm seed by adopting quality parameters, training of farmers and graineurs, disease monitoring and extending technical help to state governments. BTSSO is headquartered at Bilaspur in Chhattisgarh, with 23 nested units, 1 Central Tasar Silkworm Seed Station (CTSSS) at Kargi-Kota in Chhattisgarh and 22 Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centres (BSM&TC) in nine tasar producing states.

The basic structure of seed production in tasar is shown below in Fig 3.2.

Breeder stock-elite seed Elite Cocoons (CTR&TI, Ranchi)

Nucleus seed Nucleus cocoons (CTSSS and BSM&TC) ARs/DRs

Basic seed (BSM&TC, PPC, Seed cocoons SMC and BSPU) ARs/DRs

Commercial seed (PPCs, NGOs, private Commercial rearers graineurs, etc.)

Reelable cocoons

Breeder stock-elite seeds are obtained from the Central Tasar Research & Training Institute (CTR&TI) in Ranchi at regular intervals and multiplied into nucleus seeds at the Central Tasar Silkworm Seed Station (CTSSS) at Kota; apart from this, some amount of nucleus seed is also produced at the Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centres (BSM&TC). The nucleus seeds are further multiplied into basic seeds at BSM&TC as well as the state Pilot Project Centres (PPCs) and the now upgraded Seed Multiplication Centres (SMCs). Basic seeds are also produced by Basic Seed Production Unit (BSPU) of the rearers’ cooperative. All BTSSO institutions are under the jurisdiction of Central Silk Board (CSB) while the PPCs and SMCs are under DoS.

From July to September, the nucleus seeds are multiplied on isolated plantations with strict quality controls; in the second cycle (September-December), they are further reared to develop nucleus seed cocoons which are stored till the next season (in July) to produce the basic seeds. BSM&TC and PPCs work in close coordination with Adopted Seed Rearers (ASRs) for production of basic seed cocoons which are distributed to private commercial graineurs for production of commercial disease- free layings (DFLs). These DFLs are finally distributed to commercial rearers to produce reelable cocoons.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

There is one BSM&TC in Bihar, at Bhagalpur, along with five Pilot Project Centres (PPCs) in Shyambazar and Inaravaran in Banka district, Gangtamore in Munger district, Kouakhol in Nawada district and Adhaura in Kaimur district (not functional since 2012). Under MMTVP, these five PPCs would be strengthened and refurbished. Each PPC has a mandate to produce 45,000 DFLs and distribute them to the rearers at a subsidised rate of Re 1/DFL.

Table 3.2 below shows the brushing schedule for Bihar to achieve maximum productivity:

First crop Second crop Third crop Tri-voltine Bi-voltine TV BV TV (TV) (BV) 15-25 June 10-15 July 20-25 20-25 20-25 August September October

The BSM&TC, Bhagalpur, primarily provides for the basic and nucleus seed requirement of the area under study. The unit was established in 2004 and primarily produces basic and nucleus disease free layings (DFLs) for Daba bi-voltine (BV) eco-race. About 40% of the production is utilised by four PPCs (Shyambazar-2,820, Inaravaran-5,000, Gangtamore-3,000 and Kouakhol- 600) in Bihar, while the remaining 60% is supplied to different units in Jharkhand. The centre does not have a captive plantation of its own but works with Adapted Seed Rearers (ASRs) in Banka and Godda (Jharkhand) districts. There are 130 ASRs out of which 80 are in Banka district. The centre has been established on DoS land of 1.5 acres; there are five mud house grainages of 5-lakh capacity along with office, garage, etc. The sub-depot of Raw Material Bank (RMB) is also located in the buildings on the premises. Earlier, there were 19 staff, but currently it has staff strength of seven comprising of a scientist, three technical assistants, a clerk, a driver and a guard. Many of the older staff has retired and no new recruitments are being made. Since Bhagalpur’s weather is not very conducive for tasar activities, most of the grainage activities are carried out in green shed nets on the grainage verandahs. The mud houses are too hot, resulting in high mortality. The pebrine percentage was reported to be 1.9. Only the DFLs given to ASRs are checked for pebrine incidences; the remaining DFLs are simply not checked unless done so by the receiver themselves. Grainage hygiene is maintained through formalin spray and flame gunning.

Each ASR is provided with 10 kg lime and 1 kg bleaching powder, along with 50 ml of Rogor or Tefbor. They have also been provided hand sprayers but no nylon nets. Earlier, the crop used to be insured, but currently, there are no such provisions. The rearers (husband and wife) are insured by life insurance policies and are also covered under health insurance through ICICI- Lombard.

Table 3.3 gives the details of cocoons processed and DFLs produced for BV in 2014-2016:

2015-16 2014-15 BV-1 BV-2 BV-1 BV-2 Cocoons 2,30,495 2,24,990 4,05,600 1,54,300 DFLs 40,725 32,368 94,340 27,775 Ratio 5.6 : 1 6.9 : 1 4.2 : 1 5.5 : 1

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The seed cocoons are purchased from the ASRs at Rs 2.50 per piece and brought to the centre in plastic crates on trucks. Even though the cost of the cocoon varies every year, the DFL sale rate is fixed at Rs 6/DFL. The pierced cocoons are sold to the Raw Material Bank (RMB) which procures them at 90 paise per piece even though the market rate was Rs 1.10/piece. Despite same rate for male and female cocoons during procurement, RMB buys as per shell weight grade, resulting in losses.

The details of BSM&TC, Bhagalpur are mentioned in Table 3.4 below:

Established 2004 Basic seed DFLs 40,725 BV Price of DFL Rs 6/DFL Cocoons procured 2.3 lakh for BV-1 and 2.24 lakh for BV-2 Price of cocoons Rs 2.50 per piece Cocoons procured from Banka district in Bihar, Godda district in Jharkhand Area 1.5 acres Captive plantations None Adopted Seed Rearers 130 No of cycles taken 2 BV Cocoon : DFL ratio 5.5 : 1 Infrastructure and facilities 5 grainage, 5 lakh capacity; office and a garage Staff 7 Basic DFLs sold to Bihar and Jharkhand

The PPC, Inaravaran, in Banka district was established in 1983; its primary activities are DFL production and distribution, technical assistance to rearers and implementation of MMTVP (which includes plantation, construction of private grainages, training, exposure, workshops, etc.). The unit has staff strength of five with seven vacant positions; it has one grainage with 23,000-cocoon capacity, along with an office, a training hall, etc. Under the MMTVP, five grainages with a capacity of 1 lakh cocoons is being constructed along with office and other facilities.

Under MMTVP, till 2015, the centre had completed 936 ha of tasar plantation in forests and private lands while 520 ha were remaining. Twenty-five Resham Mitras have been promoted, with each group required to have one grainage building for production of commercial DFLs. The unit works with 150 seed rearers, 110 private graineurs and 215 commercial rearers engaged in rearing Daba BV tasar.

The Basic DFLs are obtained from BSM&TC, Bhagalpur, as well as from self-production; in 2015, the centre obtained 2,820 basic DFLs from BSM&TC, Bhagalpur, and produced 8,100 DFLs at the centre. The centre had procured 86,320 seed cocoons for preservation in 2015. The DFLs are sold at Rs 600/hundred to rearers in the Katoria block of Banka district. The cocoons were purchased at Rs 2.60 per piece, while the pierced cocoons were sold at Rs 1.50 per piece. In 2014-15, the centre conducted three trainings with 75 participants.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The principal issues of concern, as discussed, were:

 Prevailing weather conditions characterised by high temperature and humidity in Bhagalpur is not suitable for tasar  High mortality and prevalence of diseases  Tasar rearers are taking both seed and commercial crops to the same plot, resulting in contamination  Poor quality of cocoons and thus, poor yarn recovery  Fluctuating price of seed cocoons  No new recruitments, decreasing staff strength  Poor microscopy and thus, pebrine-free eggs cannot be ensured  Technical training of PPC staff lacking  Limitations of local conveyance facilities for PPC staff

The Banvasi Tasar Kitpalak Cooperative Society at Lilavaran (Banka district) which was initiated by PRADAN in 2007 (registered in 2010), is also engaged in the production of nucleus and basic DFLs for Daba BV. It has four Basic Seed Production Units – Lilavaran-1 (1.5 lakh capacity), Lilavaran-2 (2.5 lakh capacity), Dhoberna (1.5 lakh capacity) and Bhorsar (1.5 lakh capacity) – with a capacity of preserving 7 lakh nucleus seed cocoons; apart from this, there are 60 private grainage buildings. Having started with 53,222 basic DFLs in 2007-08, the cooperative has produced 97,895 basic DFLs in 2013-14. Nucleus seed production was initiated in 2009-10 with 7,700 DFLs which went up to 19,340 in 2013-14.

There are 55 nucleus (first crop) rearers and 235 nucleus (second crop) rearers along with 145 basic seed rearers. In 2015, the cooperative produced 1.2 lakhs nucleus 1-cocoons and 4.6 lakhs nucleus 2-cocoons. About 3,000 nucleus DFLs were self- produced in the first crop and 3,000 were obtained from the BSM&TCs of Madhupur and Deoghar, respectively. In the second crop, 30,000 nucleus DFLs were produced. The pebrine percentage was reported to be 1 for nucleus (second crop).

The nucleus and basic DFLs are priced at Rs 12, as compared to commercial DFLs which are priced at Rs 10 per DFL. The nucleus and basic cocoons of first crop are procured at Rs 1.80 per piece, while the second crop is procured at Rs 2.50 per piece.

The cooperative works with Adapted Seed Rearers (ASRs) to multiply nucleus seeds and convert them into basic seeds. The nucleus seeds are reared specifically in captive plantations under isolated conditions, where stringent norms of hygiene are followed to avoid any contamination. The nucleus cocoons procured from specific ASRs in November are preserved for a period of six to seven months. The seed cocoon lot is examined for pebrine incidence and when it exceeds the threshold limit of 5%, the entire lot is rejected for seed production and sold for yarn processing instead.

Every year, the nucleus crop is shuffled between different plantations to avoid contamination. The seed produced is a vital link towards the success of commercial rearing in the area and sustenance of livelihoods for more than 3,000 families; the surplus seeds are also supplied to similar cooperatives in Jharkhand as well as other tasar producing states.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The various tasks engaged in the functioning of a Basic Seed Production Unit (BSPU) are:

 Organising the production of nucleus seeds in isolated plantations  Preserving cocoons in a grainage and producing basic seeds as per requirement  Managing surplus and deficits of basic seeds  Organising training for seed rearers and commercial rearers  Monitoring seed multiplication activities to ensure seed cocoons for grainage  Monitoring the work of grainage entrepreneurs to ensure quality DFL production  Data collection and compilation on the seed material being produced each year  Organising exposure visits on cost basis for other project beneficiaries

Plate 3.5 – BSPU, Lilavaran Plate 3.6 - Nucleus seed grainage

Plate 3.7 – Laying of eggs in boxes (left) and collection of the hatched eggs (right)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 3.8 - Looking for pebrine incidence through the microscope

Plate 3.9- ISO-9001 certification of Basic Seed Production Unit (BSPU)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.5 below shows the cost economics of producing basic seeds: Components Quantity Rate Amount (Rs/unit) (Rs) Seed cocoons 1.5 lakh 2.50/piece 3,75,000 Cocoon preservation 0.05/piece 7,500 Ropes 4,500 Slaked lime 50 kg 10/kg 500 Bleaching powder 20 kg 30/kg 600 Formalin 5 lts 200/lt 1,000 Sulphur 1 kg 145/kg 145 Detergents 7 kg 43/kg 300 Deprotex 5 lts 100/lt 500 Potassium carbonate 100 Cloth bags 300 1.50/piece 450 Rubber bands 3 kg 250/kg 750 Brooms 30 pieces 15/piece 450 Slides 700 Old newspapers 30 kg 15/kg 450 Nylon net 100 Diesel 30 lt 60/lt 1,800 Equipment maintenance 2,500 Labour and microscopist 70,000 Other accessories 1,000 Miscellaneous expenses 1,000 Gross expenses 4,69,345 Nucleus DFLs 27,500 12/DFL 3,30,000 Pierced cocoons 1.5 lakh 1.30/piece 1,95,000 Gross income 5,25,000 Net income 55,655

As observed, 94% of the expense is on cocoon procurement and labour; the cost of production for 1 Basic-1 DFL comes to Rs 17.28 as compared to Rs 12 being offered to rearers; the margin is primarily from the sale of pierced cocoons.

In the second crop, about 1 lakh cocoons (at Rs 2/piece) are processed to produce 25,000 nucleus seeds; the cost of production per DFL comes to Rs 12.49; thus, even though the margins of nucleus second crop are higher (Rs 1.17 lakh), the DFL rates are quite justified.

The DFLs are produced under strict quality control and since the enactment of Tasar Seeds Act in 2011, seed producers trained by CSB and PRADAN and capable of producing high quality DFLs were certified, and those who did not follow the norms and standards are liable to lose their accreditation. Currently, no crop insurance is operational in the area and the cooperative does not provide any DFLs on credit to the rearers.

Since 2011, about 98 seed rearers have been awarded accreditation and the BSPUs have acquired ISO certification. It has also achieved the unique distinction of achieving 80 to 100 cocoons per DFL in block plantation rearing. The community-managed BSPU has not only enhanced productivity but also boosted the confidence of tasar rearers in the activity. What makes the achievement path-breaking is that such stringent standards are being maintained and implemented by the collective action of the people.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The principle issues of concern, as discussed by the CEO and board members of the cooperative, are:

 Current plantations are not adequate to meet production targets.  There are many families interested in tasar rearing, but they do not have suitable land for plantations.  BSM&TCs need to ensure high quality nucleus DFLs so that the entire production cycle is not affected.  In a bid to earn higher income, private graineurs are focusing on increasing production but compromising on quality in doing so, thus affecting the faith of the rearers.  Zero tolerance needs to be maintained with regards to nucleus and basic DFL production.  Mixing of DFLs from different sources contributes to the spread of diseases.  The prevalent attitude of making quick money at the expense of many and compromising the potential of the activity needs to change; increased participation, ownership of community and realisation of the importance of standards is of utmost priority.

Plate 3.10 - DFL packets

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.5 Tasar operations

Apart from the Directorate of Handloom & Sericulture and the BSM&TC which are directly responsible for tasar rearing and seed production in the state, PRADAN, a national-level NGO, has been working in the tasar sub sector in Banka district since the 1990s with support from Innovative Change Collaborative (ICCO), Council for Advancement of People's Action and Rural Technology (CAPART), District Rural Development Agency (DRDA) and Bihar Plateau Development Programme (BPDP).

A number of programmes to develop tasar as a livelihood have been taken up systematically since 2000, based on the lessons and learning from the earlier projects, under the guidance of Central Silk Board (CSB). These programmes are:

 United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) project (2000 to 2003)  Special Swarnjayanti Gram Swarozgar Yojana (SGSY) projects (2003-2012)  NABARD-Tribal Development Fund (TDF) project (2008-2013)  MKSP Project (2014-2017)

Under these programmes, a number of unique initiatives were taken up that have greatly enhanced the tasar value chain, as depicted in Table 3.6 below:

Programme Years Main highlights - Pre-cocoon Early 1987-2000 Decentralised private grainages for seed production, plantation in prototypes, private land and community institutions Banka district UNDP, 2000-2003  Strengthening of private grainages for DFL production Banka district  Adoption of package and practices for seed and commercial tasar rearing (Chawki rearing under nylon net, seed rearing in plantations) Special SGSY, 2003-2012  Group and cluster approach strengthened; initiation of Tasar Banka district Vikas Samitis  Enhanced plantations in private lands, 0.1 ha Chawki plantation  Supply of nucleus seeds from CSB for basic seed production  Basic seed production through cooperatives  Skill development to maintain stringent quality control in basic seed production  Entire commercial seed production by private grainages  Strengthening CSB seed establishments  Capacity building of participating farmers NABARD-TDF 2008-2013  Raising of tasar plantations Banka and  Convergence of other activities like horticulture, SRI paddy, Jamui districts intercropping with vegetables and pulses, creating community assets, tasar godowns and dryer facilities. All this to generate additional enhanced income of Rs 25,000 annually per family. MKSP with 2014-2017  Scaling up of existing operations Jeevika,  Large scale plantations Banka district  Cocoon banks  Basic Seed Production Units (BSPUs)  Community Based Organisations (CBOs)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Apart from these, a number of initiatives were taken up under post-cocoon which will be separately described in the next chapter.

Table 3.7 shows the details of tasar livelihoods promoted by PRADAN in Bihar in 2014-15:

Plantations Seed Basic Basic Seed Seed Graineurs Commercial Commercial Commercial Commercial (hectares) rearers DFLs DFLs cocoons cocoons DFLs DFLs reared cocoons rearers produced reared produced processed produced 210 145 1,01,322 22,000 8,04,000 7,40,000 29 1,74,047 1,71,000 55,69,504 977 Mean - Mean - 3.78 Mean - 1:38 1:45 : 1

The basic seed DFLs provided by the BSM&TC, Bhagalpur, and the PPCs as well as the Banvasi cooperative, is converted into seed cocoons by seed cocoon rearers for commercial grainages. This process though of only about a month’s duration, is extremely critical in the tasar value chain and carries a high risk of low returns. Since the seed cocoons are reared in June-July, it coincides with the monsoons and paddy transplants which make the rearers hard-pressed to allocate proper time to seed rearing. The monsoons also bring in increased risks of crop loss.

Since the seed cocoons are low in shell weight, they are allocated a lower price as compared to the commercial crop which has a higher shell weight in comparison and is thus preferred.

Seed rearing also needs to be carried out in exclusive rearing fields with good, sanitised conditions. However, in the absence of a proper number of host plants, this exclusivity is not maintained, resulting in spread of diseases further down the chain which eventually translates into sever losses.

Sitaram Rajak of Bhorsar village (Katoria block, Banka district) has been a traditional tasar rearer since the last 30 years. Earlier, he used to rear the Sarihan eco-race through traditional methods, but since 2002, he has shifted to Daba BV rearing. He rears in a forest patch with about 5,000 Asan trees, along with Sal and Dhaura. Despite objections from the forest guard to the chopping of the tree branches and periodic pollarding, Sitaram continues to rear tasar. He receives fertilisers like urea, DAP and MoP, along with Rogor, 10 kg of lime and 1 kg of bleaching powder from PRADAN under the MKSP programme. He has four nylon nets, while there is a gator sprayer available on demand in the village. He uses the traditional sickle and axe for pruning and pollarding, and sling shots and sticky traps to keep away pests and predators.

In 2014, Sitaram obtained 500 DFLs from the Banvasi cooperative and private grainages at Rs 800 per packet of 100 DFLs, amounting to Rs 4,000 in total. The hatching was at 80%, producing 30,000 good cocoons and 5,000 flimsy ones (1:70). The good cocoons were sold to local traders at Rs 3.12/piece while the flimsy ones were sold at 10 paise/piece. Sitaram made a net margin of Rs 90,069 which was used to buy a pump set, cow and goats and spent on other household expenses. He feels he could have done better, if attacks from predators like birds and grey langurs had been less.

In 2015, Sitaram as part of a group of five friends and relatives took two packets (200 DFLs) for seed rearing at Rs 1,200/100 DFLs from the Banvasi cooperative. The production was 18,000 good cocoons and 1,120 flimsy ones (1:96). The good cocoons were sold back to the cooperative at Rs 2/piece, thus earning back Rs 36,000. The net margin was Rs 33,600 which was given to a grainage owner for grainage activities.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

At the time of the survey, Sitaram was rearing seven packets (700 Commercial DFLs) obtained from the cooperative. He expected a good yield. Though women are not completely engaged in rearing, they help in transfer of larva between the trees as well as bringing food to rearers during rearing watch, etc.

Umesh Yadav of Pipradih village (Katoria block, Banka district) has been rearing tasar since 2002 in the forests in and around his village. In his addabari, there are about 1,500 Asan trees along with other host plants. In the past, forest officials had forcibly taken 640 cocoons as fine for rearing tasar in the area. He had received 10 kg lime and 250 g bleaching powder for rearing as well as a gator sprayer. He has two nylon nets which he bought at a subsidised rate of Rs 600 in 2004.

In 2014, Umesh had taken 300 DFLs obtained from BSM&TC, Bhagalpur, at Rs 800/100 DFLs, amounting to Rs 2,400. The hatching was at 85%, yielding 12,800 good cocoons and 1,280 flimsy cocoons (1:47). The good cocoons were sold for Rs 3.75/piece while the flimsy ones were sold at 54 paise a piece to local traders. Umesh made a net margin of Rs 46,300 which was spent on his sister’s marriage, repayment of loans and purchase of bricks for construction of his house.

Baijun Hansda of Modikura village (Chandan block, Banka district) has been rearing tasar since 2013 on 70 acres of Arjuna plantation developed by PRADAN under Special SGSY projects. About 7,000 host trees are used by Baijun for rearing; he received 200 DFLs at Rs 800 per 100 DFLs amounting to Rs 1600, from the Banvasi cooperative. He bought three packets of lime at Rs 90 per packet and 3 kg of bleaching powder at Rs 40 per kg, amounting to Rs 390. He obtained Rogor (Dimethoate) from the cooperative. Baijun has a nylon net which he obtained three years ago at a subsidised price of Rs 300. There is a gator sprayer in the village and secateurs have been provided to each rearer. Gamaxene (Benzene Hexachloride) of 500 g costing Rs 50 is used to keep red ants away from the larvae.

Ninety-five per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 15,500 good cocoons (1:56) that were sold to the cooperative at Rs 2.50 per piece, while the remaining 1,200 flimsy cocoons were sold at Rs 1.59 per piece amounting to Rs 40,658 with a margin of Rs 38,618. The proceeds were used to purchase a cow, a goat and solar plate; the balance amount has been deposited in the bank. Earlier, Baijun had also reared 200 DFLs for seed cocoons which yielded 10,800 cocoons (1:54). Of this, 10,000 were utilised in the grainage at Rs 2 per piece and the remaining 800 flimsy cocoons were sold locally at 80 paise per piece.

Chotelal Murmu of the same village has been rearing tasar in the plantation since 2007; he has around 6,000 Arjuna trees. He obtained 400 DFLs from the Banvasi cooperative in 2014, at Rs 800 per 100 DFLs amounting to Rs 3,200. He received Rogor and urea from PRADAN, while he bought lime and bleaching powder worth Rs 1,600 during the rearing period. He has two nylon nets that cost Rs 4,000 but were given at a subsidised rate of Rs 1,400 per unit. He also used 500 g Gamaxene powder for red ants and other pests, bought at Rs 50. A gator sprayer and secateurs were also provided, to be returned after rearing. Chotelal carries out light pruning of the host plants from time to time.

Ninety-five per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 28,500 cocoons (1:71), out of which 26,000 good cocoons were purchased by the cooperative at Rs 2.50 per piece and the remaining 2,500 flimsy cocoons sold at Rs 1.59 per piece through an auction at the cooperative premises. The gross income stood at Rs 68,975 with a margin of Rs 64,125. Chotelal spent the money on his children’s education and household expenses.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In 2015, Chotelal had reared 200 DFLs for seed cocoons from which he got 8,950 cocoons (1:45); 8000 of the cocoons were purchased by the cooperative at Rs 2 per piece and the remaining 950 flimsy cocoons were sold at 80 paise per piece, amounting to Rs 16,760.

At the time of the study, Chotelal was rearing 400 DFLs obtained from the cooperative at Rs 1,200 per 100 DFLs.

Munshi Hansda of Arpathar village (Chandan block, Banka district) has been a traditional tasar rearer in the forests adjoining his village. He has more than 1,000 Asan trees in his addabari where he rears tasar BV eco-races. The rearers in Arpathar did not report any problems or issues with the Forest Department.

In 2014, Munshi received 300 DFLs from the Banvasi cooperative at Inaravaran, at Rs 800 per 100 DFL amounting to Rs 2,400. He also bought 5 kg lime and 2.5 kg bleaching powder. He has an old nylon net (quite damaged now) which he used and also received a gator sprayer from PRADAN. Munshi carries out pollarding of the host trees once in three years; there is no manuring or any other inputs provided. There were no incidences of gall infestation reported from the area.

Eighty per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 2,720 cocoons (1:9), of which 70% were good and sold to local traders at Rs 4.30 per piece while the remaining 800 flimsy cocoons were sold at 50 paise per piece, thus earning him a total of Rs 8,650 with a margin of Rs 6,050. The production was low due to high attack of yellow wasps (Vespa orientalis).

In 2015, Munshi took 200 DFLs for seed crop rearing from the Banvasi cooperative at Inaravaran, at Rs 1,000 per 100 DFLs, amounting to Rs 2,000. He got 12,000 cocoons (1:60) from them, with 83% of good quality cocoons that were sold to a private graineur at Rs 2 per piece; the remaining 2,000 flimsy cocoons were sold to the local trader at 12 paise per piece. Munshi made Rs 20,250 from the seed crop rearing, with a margin of Rs 18,250.

He further took 300 DFLs from the private graineur at Rs 1,000 per 100 DFLs, amounting to Rs 3,000, for commercial crop rearing. He got a production of 10,240 cocoons (1:34) out of which 87% were of good quality and sold at Rs 3.12 per piece, while the remaining flimsy cocoons were sold at 31 paise per piece. Munshi made a margin of Rs 25,400 from the commercial crop. The proceeds were used to fund his children’s education and on household expenses.

In Arpathar and the adjoining villages of Jogmaran and Suggitarn under MMTVP, a group of 25 rearers has been initiated under a Resham Mitra who is the graineur. A grainage house has been constructed with a grant of Rs 50,000, along with accessories; there are three seed rearers and 22 commercial rearers (to rear 200 DFLs each) who have all been provided with nylon nets, chemicals and accessories worth Rs 5,000. Apart from this, an Arjuna plantation of 50 ha is being developed on private land for tasar rearing with 20% community contribution. By the fiscal year of 2017-18, all the assets and the programme implementation will be handed over to the community.

Rajinder Yadav of Suggitarn reared 300 DFLs obtained from PPC, Inaravaran, to get 20,000 seed cocoons (1:70) that were further processed in commercial grainage to produce 5,000 DFLs (4:1). Of this, 400 DFLs were further reared in commercial cycle to produce 25,000 cocoons (1:62). Rajinder Yadav however had to spend all income from this on medical expenses in Bhagalpur.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Birbal Tudu of Janakpur had taken 200 DFLs from a private graineur, but when none of the DFLs hatched, he took 100 DFLs from PPC, Inaravaran. This time, he received a yield of 2,000 cocoons (1:20). Hiralal Tudu of Arpathar had taken 400 DFLs from the local grainage, but due to virosis, only 1,280 cocoons were of good quality and the remaining 3,200 cocoons were flimsy.

Surendra Pujhar of Jogmaran had taken 200 DFLs from the Banvasi cooperative to obtain 7,500 seed cocoons (1:37, 92% good); he further took 400 DFLs from a private graineur to get 8,320 cocoons (1:21, 93% good).

Table 3.8 below shows the details of tasar rearing in the area:

Rearer Village Crop DFLs DFL source Cocoons DFL : Rate (Rs/piece) Net income Cocoon (Rs) Sitaram Bhorsar BV-2 500 Banvasi 35,000 1:70 3.12 good 90,069 Rajak Cooperative 86% good 0.10 flimsy BV-1 200 Banvasi 19,120 1:96 2 good 33,600 Cooperative 94% good Umesh Pipradih BV-2 300 BSMTC, 14,080 1:47 3.75 good 46,300 Yadav Bhagalpur 90% good 0.54 flimsy Baijun Modikura BV-1 200 Banvasi 10,800 1:54 2-Good 18,540 Hansda Cooperative 92% good 0.80-Flimsy BV-2 200 Banvasi 15,500 1:77 2.50 good 38,168 Cooperative 92% good 1.59 flimsy Chotelal Modikura BV-2 400 Banvasi 28,500 1:71 2.50 good 64,125 Murmu Cooperative 91% good 1.59 flimsy BV-1 8 200 Banvasi ,950 1:45 2 good 14,570 Cooperative 89% good 0.80 flimsy Munshi Arpathar BV-2 300 Banvasi 2,720 1:9 4.30 good 6,050 Hansda Cooperative 70% good 0.50 flimsy BV-1 200 Banvasi 12,000 1:60 2 good 18,250 BV-2 Cooperative 83% good 0.12 flimsy

300 Private 10,240 1:34 3.12 good 25,400 graineur 87% good 0.31 flimsy Hiralal Arpathar BV-2 400 Private 4,480 1:11 3.12 good 678 Tudu graineur 28% good 0.37 flimsy Surendra Jogmaran BV-1 200 Banvasi 7,500 1:37 2 good 11,360 Pujhar Cooperative 92% good 0.10 flimsy BV-2 400 Private 8,320 1:21 3.12 good 19,856 graineur 93% good 0.37 flimsy Birbal Janakpur BV-2 100 PPC, 2,000 1:20 3.12 good 4,340 Tudu Inaravaran 80% good 0.37 flimsy Rajinder Suggitarn BV-1 300 PPC, 21,000 1:70 0.12 flimsy Yadav Inaravaran 90% good grainage 20,000 Self 5000 DFLs 4:1 800-100 DFLs cocoons 0.59-Pierced 25,000 1:62 3.12-Good BV-2 400 Self 90% good 0.37-Flimsy ~1 Lakh

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 3.11 - Tasar rearing at Banka district

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The primary issues of concern expressed by DoS officials with respect to pre-cocoon activities were:

 Deforestation, climate change, attack of predators, disease outbreaks  Need to increase plantations, especially gap filling in forests (at least 40% tasar host plants)  Need for resolution of conflicts with the Forest Department (especially on issues of pollarding)  Absence of well-demarcated seed zones  Theft of matured larva and cocoons  Threat from nocturnal predators like bats and owls which eat the larva  Need for provisions of accessories to rearers, such as raincoats, torches and plastic sheets  Requirement of more private graineurs to ensure availability of commercial DFLs locally  Need to reinitiate seed crop insurance provisions  Difficulties in settling health insurance claims through ICICI-Lombard  Poor rates of flimsy cocoons

In Bihar, there is no state-managed procurement system for commercial cocoons, except for basic seed production. Even though the Raw Material Bank (RMB) announces its price, most of the cocoons are bought by the traders. The blocks have many petty traders for whom tasar trading is a seasonal activity. They purchase directly from the rearers based on cash and commodity advances provided during rearing. It is a long-standing social relationship where the traders double up as money lenders. Each trader can cater to four to five villages and is able to procure 3 lakh to 4 lakh cocoons or more depending on the production and pricing. These are further sold to bigger traders in Bhagalpur who can assemble up to 25 lakh to 30 lakh cocoons. Three-fourth of the cocoons produced in Banka district end up in Bhagalpur, while the remaining goes to Bishnupur in West Bengal. About 10 lakh to 12 lakh pierced cocoons are also procured from each block. The cocoons are procured based on three types: good, flimsy (chopa) and pierced (phoki) based on eye estimate, size and toughness. The dry cocoons are sold to the big traders almost immediately, while the partially wet ones are sun dried and sold. Depending on the collection of the petty traders, about 10 to 12 sacks (2,500 cocoons each) are sold at one lot. The traders use their own capital or take advances from other traders, usually adjusted as per cocoons sent. A commission of 3% is taken by the bigger traders; the other expenses are primarily transport (at Rs 100 per sack) to Bhagalpur and miscellaneous expenses like loading, informal taxes, etc. Thus, a kahan of cocoons (~1,300) costing Rs 4,550 is ultimately sold at Rs 5,200 to Rs 5,300 at Bhagalpur, with a margin of Rs 300 to Rs 400 per kahan.

Table 3.9 shows the rates of different types of cocoons:

Cocoon type Rate (Rs/piece) Reelable cocoon Rs 3.50 to Rs 4 Flimsy cocoons Re 0.80 to Re 0.90 Pierced cocoons Rs.1.10 to 1.15

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

According to the traders, the price of cocoons depends on the following factors:

 Production of Raily cocoons  Production of Daba cocoons  Yarn and fabric prices The primary problem for the traders is informal taxes and problems created by the police during transport.

The Raw Material Bank (RMB) sub-depot of Bhagalpur was established in 1979. It is currently housed inside the BSM&TC, Bhagalpur campus. The main functions of the RMB are to:

 Protect rearers from exploitation by traders  Offer fair price to the rearers

The Tropical Tasar Advisory Committee decides on the procurement price of cocoons every six months. The RMB can only purchase from the primary rearer at the stipulated rate decided as per shell weight. The cocoons are sold on the spot or stored in a facility near the point of collection due to the limited storage space (2 lakh to 3 lakh cocoons) at Bhagalpur. It is brought to the sub-depot only if it is not possible to store them at the procurement location. The cocoons are kept for 10 to 15 days before complete sale. The sub-depot at Bhagalpur can purchase up to 50 lakh pierced cocoons from Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal and Uttar Pradesh. There are five people on the staff: a Technical & Administrative official, two skilled farm workers and two guards. The cocoons are sold as per the grade with 7% commission to khadi units, NGOs and government agencies. Majority of the cocoons are sold to khadi units in Bihar, Jharkhand and West Bengal or to NGOs like PRADAN or to textile testing laboratories, etc. Table 3.10 shows the details of cocoon pricing as per RMB in June 2015:

Cocoon type Yield/1000 nos Average shell Average purchase Sale weight/cocoon (g) price/1000 nos (Rs) price/1000 nos (Rs) Reelable 801 g and above 1.55 and above 2,804 3,000 cocoon-I Reelable 601 to 800 g 1.40 2,105 2,252 cocoon-II Reelable 401 to 600 g 1.08 1,367 1,463 cocoon-III Reelable 301 to 400 g 0.80 958 1,025 cocoon-IV Unreelable 1m000 g and 1.4 and above 1,296 1,387 cocoon-I above Unreelable 801 g to 1m000 g 1.25 1,036 1,109 cocoon-II Unreelable 601 to 800 g 0.97 777 831 cocoon-III Unreelable 401 to 600 g 0.69 519 555 cocoon-IV Flimsy (chopa) -- -- 300 321 Cocoon waste -- -- 100 107 Peduncle -- -- 150 161 Silk waste -- -- 400 428

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Since the price of cocoons loomed above Rs 3,000 in the open market and the massive procurements made by Jharcraft at high prices, there was almost negligible procurement of reelable cocoons. In 2014, only 55,000 reelable cocoons were purchased for supplying seed cocoons to BSMTC, Deoghar in Deoghar district and PRADAN rearers by the sub-depot.

Table 3.11- lists other details of the cocoons procured:

Pierced Non-emerged and non- Reelable cocoons Waste cocoons seed cocoons 31,26,300 5,51,700 55,000 3.7 kg

Eighty-five per cent of the purchase consists of pierced cocoons from the BSMTCs (Kathikund, Madhupur, Bhagalpur, Deoghar, Dudhi, etc.) and the PPC grainages.

The primary issues of concern cited were:

 Availability of less staff to manage cocoon procurement, carriage, storage and sale  High prices of cocoons in the open market make it impossible for RMB to purchase from the rearers  Large institutional buyers like Jharcraft lifting the cocoons at high prices, distort the markets

1 6

ASRs BSM&TCs RMB Bhagalpur C PRADAN E 2 N 1 2 7 4 T 1 R TVS 2 Banvasi 3 6 Resham A 3 Commercial cooperative Mitra/Graineurs L PPCs rearer 2 Input S 6 6 I suppliers 4 6 L 5 K Traders Banks 5 & 6 B O A Outside state Forest R EcoTasar Weaving units Spinners traders or D Department processors

1 - Basic and nucleus DFLs 2 - Seed cocoons 3 - Commercial DFLs 4 - C DFLs and seed cocoons 5 - Commercial cocoon 6 - Pierced and flimsy

Fig 3.3- Product flow diagram for pre-cocoon

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.6 Institutional set-up

In Bihar, tasar sericulture falls under the Directorate of Handloom & Sericulture under Department of Industries. Apart from this, there is the BSM&TC, Bhagalpur and the RMB sub-depot, Bhagalpur which work to carry out the overall operations of the entire pre-cocoon tasar value chain. Under the MKSP programme, Bihar Rural Livelihoods Promotion Society (BRLPS-Jeevika) along with PRADAN is responsible for implementation of the tasar programme in the state. Further, women-led organisations at the village level such as Tasar Vikas Samitis (TVS) and district level cooperative are also being initiated along the lines of the three-tier self-help group (SHG) model.

Tasar Vikas Samiti (TVS)

Under the MKSP programme, at the village level, women are organised into SHGs while the tasar producers are further organised into primary activity groups, namely Tasar Vikas Samiti (TVS) comprising of rearers, graineurs, plantation farmers, reelers and spinners. The TVS is responsible for the overall implementation and progress of the programme in the village. The TVS implements the activities as per the plans decided by it. Each TVS has 15-40 members and meet once a month or as decided collectively.

Based on the participatory planning of tasar activities in the TVS, requisition for funds is placed to the facilitating organisation (PIA, e.g. PRADAN) and after due verification, the amount transferred to the dedicated account for implementation of the project. The members of the TVS, the Community Service Provider (CSP) and the facilitating PIA carry out the activities and maintain accounts of the same.

The principal functions of the TVS are:

 Selection of tasar rearers  Selection of proper rearing site  Host plant maintenance  Promotion of new plantations  Monitoring quality of DFLs and availability as per schedule  Supporting rearers for accessing quality and timely inputs, accessories, services and markets  Provide revolving fund and credit to tasar producers  Capacity building of tasar producers  Review of tasar producers and service providers  Implementation of activities, record keeping, accounts and funds handling, monitoring and reporting

The different TVS in the villages are further integrated at the block level as producers’ organisations/federations. Most of the TVS (75) promoted by PRADAN under MKSP are currently at a fledging state with irregular meetings; the members are yet to develop clarity on their roles and responsibilities. Annually, about two to three meetings take place, primarily related to tasar rearing issues.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

District/block level producer’s federation

This is the integrating apex body of all the TVS groups in the block/district – the tasar producers’ collective. It is an independent body registered at the district level. It is formed for 500-1,000 families based on the geographical spread.

Its primary functions are:

 Quality and price regulation of DFLs  Seed cocoon preservation and basic seed production  Promotion of improved silkworm rearing practices  Surplus and deficit management of DFLs  Accessing distant markets for cocoon sale  Establishing linkages with resource and research institutions for facilitating innovations  Mobilising finance from financial institutions  Collaborating with the Forest Department to improve tasar host stock

It is expected that through capacity building of the board members and the CEO of the district level collective, a sustainable revenue-based community institution can be established that will be able to manage the tasar livelihoods once the project ends.

The 75 TVS are federated at the Banvasi Tasar Kitpalak Cooperative Society (Lilavaran, Banka district) initiated by PRADAN in 2007 primarily for the production of basic seeds. In 2010, it was registered as a Cooperative Society and has 2,500 members currently. Members have been drawn from about 110 villages spread across three blocks of Bousi, Chandan and Katoria in Banka district; each member purchased a share of Rs 100 and was paid a membership of Rs 50 initially. Tasar reelers and spinners are also members of the cooperative.

Two members from each TVS are selected at the Annual General Meeting, from among whom 11 members are chosen as board members. The board appoints the chairperson and treasurer and selects the secretary who is also the Chief Executive Officer (CEO). The CEO is the only full-time paid employee of the cooperative.

Plate 3.12 - Banvasi cooperative officials and grainages at Lilavaran and Bhorsar (Banka district)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

There are 290 nucleus seed rearers, 145 basic seed rearers, 97 private graineurs and 2,500 commercial rearers and about 60 spinners working at present. The cooperative has 1,237 ha of tasar plantations, 97 grainage buildings with a production capacity of 5.82 lakh commercial DFLs, four basic seed production units with a capacity of 7 lakh nucleus cocoons and 1.4 lakh basic DFLs.

The cooperative had an initial corpus of Rs 15 lakh which has now been increased to Rs 24 lakh. The annual administrative overhead is Rs 1.5 lakh.

The principal achievement of the cooperative has been the attainment of self-sufficiency of the region in its requirement of DFLs which are some of the best in the country, ensuring consistent income for the members.

Resham Mitra

Under the MMTVP, groups of 25 rearers are being formed led by a Resham Mitra who is also the graineur and a rearer. An assistance of Rs 50,000 is provided for construction of the grainage along with all accessories and equipment. There are three seed rearers, a graineur and 22 commercial rearers in each group. Each rearer is provided with a nylon net, chemicals and accessories worth Rs 5,000 under the programme, to rear 200 DFLs each. Apart from this, Arjuna plantations are being developed in private lands with 20% community contribution, which is expected to be ready for rearing within three years.

Under the MMTVP programme, the plan is to initiate 540 SHGs for tasar rearing, plantations, grainage, etc. by 2017.

Plate 3.13 - Resham Mitra and rearers with PPO at Arpathar (Banka District)

Directorate of Handloom & Sericulture

The Directorate of Handloom & Sericulture falls under the Department of Industries and is headed by the Director (Handloom & Sericulture) who is assisted by the Joint Director, Deputy Director, Technical Supervisor, Publicity & Extension Officer, Manager- Statistical Assistant and an Investigator along with accounts and administrative staff at the Directorate office in Patna. Apart from this, there are five Pilot Project Centres (PPCs) in Inaravaran and Bousi (Banka district), Gangtamore (Munger district), Kouakhol (Nawada district) and Adhaura (Kaimur district). These PPCs are headed by the Pilot Project Officer (PPO) and other staff at the respective districts.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

BSM&TC and RMB

These are the principal bodies providing the basic DFLs for seed cocoon rearing in the area; the details have been covered in section 3.4 and pp 22-23.

3.7- Schemes and programmes for pre-cocoon activities

Support under Catalytic Development Programme, Ministry of Textiles

The Catalytic Development Programme (CDP) initiated in the 10th Plan was further continued in the 11th and 12th plans (2012- 17), consisting of the following programmes, as shown in Table 3.12 below:

Assistance Programmes for Features Capacity, Target group Unit cost outreach and sharing details  Training on processing 20,000 cocoons Rs 2.32 lakh and production of DFLs 1,500 private (60% CSB, New private graineurs  Grainage construction 50c000 graineurs 20% State,  Insurance DFLs/cycle 20%  Building maintenance beneficiary)  Equipment, consumables and seed cocoons  Grainage building repair Rs 42,000  Servicing of equipment, 1,000 existing (60% CSB, Existing graineurs etc. graineurs 20% State,  Upgradation of existing 20% equipment beneficiary)  Working capital and hiring of moth testers  Renovation of existing Joint 30 Pilot Project Rs 5 lakh Strengthening of tasar seed facilities and committee of Centres (PPCs) (50% CSB, multiplication infrastructure infrastructure DoS and CSB to 50% State)  Supply of grainage decide NGOs, equipment societies, SHGs can also avail benefits of the programme 1 lakh cocoons 7 BSPUs Rs 43 lakh Establishment of Basic Seed Basic Seed Production Unit –BSPU (60% CSB, Production Unit (BSPU) infrastructure along with SHGs, 20% State, equipment, etc. cooperatives 20% and NGOs for beneficiary) management Rearing equipment and tools, 2,500 Rearers Seed rearers to Rs 20,000 Tasar silkworm rearers for fertilizers, prophylactic measures be attached to (60% CSB, production of nucleus and basic and new technologies developed BSM&TC, DoS 20% state, seeds, grainage operations at CTR&TI, Ranchi and BSPUs 20% beneficiary)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Mobile testing facility for 20 units Joint team with Rs 6.1 lakh disease monitoring and seed Mobile pick-up van for easy movement of representatives (50% CSB, cocoon testing. Joint team to the seed cocoon testing team of CTR&TI, 50% State) visit seed areas to monitor BTSSO, DoS, disease incidence during seed NGOs/CBOs, rearing, seed cocoon producer procurement/preservation/proc groups, etc. essing, seed production to contain disease incidences  1 ha plantation of tasar host 12,000 ha Tasar rearers, Rs 40,000 plants SHGs, women /ha(60% CSB,  10% area for Chawki rearing groups, Van 20% State, Augmentation of tasar host  2.4 m x 2.4 m Suraksha 20% plants  1,726 plants Samitis (VSS), beneficiary)  (1,910 seedlings supplied) Tasar Vikas  Plantation cost, inputs, soil and Samiti (TVS) water conservation, Joint Forest intercropping, cattle proof Management trench, cattle guard Committee in case of Forest lands 70,000 Rs 80,000 seedlings in 300 nurseries (60% CSB, 100 beds to 20% State, Tasar food plant seedling Seedling nursery in mass scale raise Tasar rearers, 20% nursery 55,000 SHGs, VSS, beneficiary) effective TVS seedlings for 25 ha plantation in 3 x 1.8 m spacing  Chawki rearing on private lands 0.1 ha per Rs 6,300 and government wastelands rearer with 4,000 rearers (60% CSB, Chawki gardens development  Supply of seedlings, cost of 1.8 m x 1.8 SHG, VSS, 20% State, plantation development, inputs, m spacing, KVS, etc. to be 20% soil conservation measures, inter- suitable for encouraged beneficiary) cropping young age silkworm rearing under nylon net Interculture, soil conservation, Rs 1,400 Chawki gardens maintenance vermicompost, management of termites, 2,400 rearers (60% CSB, fungal attack, application of required 20% State, fertilisers, neem-based insecticides, leaf 20% surface microbes, etc. beneficiary)  Block plantations on private lands Rs 17,000 and government wastelands (60% CSB,  Interculture, soil augmentation, 1,200 ha 20% State, Block plantations maintenance vermicompost, termite and fungi 20% management, application of beneficiary) fertilisers, neem-based pesticides, leaf surface microbes, etc.  Temporary storage for 3 to 4 Storage Rs 1 lakh months to avoid distress sale structure (35% CSB,

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Cocoon storage house  It is also used as Common Facility for 50,000 100 units 35% Centre (CFC) cocoons State,30% and beneficiary) Common Facility Centre (CFC)  Long-term cocoon storage to Cocoon Rs 22.2 lakh Cocoon storage with stifling assist in additional income for store house 30 units (35% CSB, facility rearers as well as yarn conversion stifling 35% State, chamber 30% beneficiary)

Apart from this, in the service sector, there is a lump-sum crop insurance support of Rs 1.6 crore for all sectors across all states to cover 50% of the cost of premium paid by the DoS to the insurance company. The State shall implement it in the form of master policies envisaging 50 to 100 beneficiaries depending on the nature of sub-component and density. The cost will be shared as 50% by CSB, 25% by State and 25% by beneficiary.

Health insurance for all sericulturists and sericulture workers is at a premium of Rs 1,000 plus a service tax of 12.36% for a family of five (self, spouse and three dependent family members). In 2014-15, the CSB’s share was 75% of the premium and tax for 24,000 beneficiaries with an allocation of Rs 2.4 crores.

Development of Community Based Organisations (CBOs) in line with Resham Doot concept

Under this programme, 20 farmers are motivated to take up sericulture activities and form a Sericulture Cluster Group (SCG). Support is provided to the group under different phases as the group matures. The unit cost for SCG is Rs 1.771 lakh with a sharing pattern of 60% by CSB, 36% by State and 4% by beneficiary, with a target of 1,000 groups.

The assistance provided in different phases is mentioned in the Table 3.13 below:

Activities Phase 1 Group formation, motivation, meetings and stationery Phase 2 Plantation development support through CDP, Health insurance, grainage activities, common facility centres, etc.; Working capital for inputs and distribution among members and non-members Phase 3 Networking of SCG, formation of Cluster Level Association (CLA) comprising of 10 SCGs; planning and implementation of CDP programmes through CLAs with fund routing through DoS

The NGOs or Cluster Development Management Agency (CDMA) will be encouraged to take up sericulture projects by engaging with Cluster Level Associations (CLAs).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Convergence with MGNREGA

Both the Catalytic Development Programme (CDP) and Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA) have similar objectives of livelihood security and wage employment, which particularly matches with the tasar host plants augmentation through block plantations. Under this convergence, CSB will provide technical support and develop Package of Practices (PoP) evolved by research institutes in different clusters as well as cost norms. It will also ensure onward linkages through CDP schemes so that cocoon production is strengthened to enhance income.

DoS will identify land and the beneficiaries in the area; provide training and inputs like seedlings from kisan nurseries and extension services on soil treatment and plantation. To ensure participation of the beneficiaries and long-term sustainability, the SHGs in the village will be mobilised and para-extension workers will be engaged to provide necessary services. The Gram Panchayat will be the implementing agency which will maintain all records and provide payments.

The allocated cost norm for 1 ha plantation is Rs 1.02 lakh (MGNREGA 89%, CSB 3%, beneficiary 8%); the cost of Asan/Arjuna seedlings, vermicompost, anti-termite, transportation and intercropping will be jointly shared by CSB and the beneficiary. The beneficiary would also bear part of the basin formation and weeding as well as cultivation of bund crop. The maintenance cost per ha/year for three years has been allocated at Rs 1.57 lakh (MGNREGA 87%, CSB 4%, beneficiary 9%). The programme will be jointly monitored by CSB, DoS, DPC and PO of the district; nodal officers for the programme will be designated.

Other central programmes

The seed sector has allocations for capacity building and training of Adapted Seed Rearers (ASRs) and private graineurs and other need-based focused training programmes. The duration of the training programmes will be one to four weeks, with an allocation of Rs 4,200 per trainee. The total funds budgeted for 2015-16 is Rs 52.1 lakh for 1,240 people. Additional programmes for strengthening the seed sector through restructure and deepening of ongoing schemes in 2015-16 and 2016-17 is shown in Table 3.14:

Programmes Revised targets for remaining period Assistance to ASRs for Chawki garden – 0.1 ha 1,660 units Assistance to ASRs for maintaining block plantations 1,660 units Assistance to tasar rearers for BSR and NSR 1,660 units Disinfectants support to ASRs for total elimination of Rs 2,200 per farmer for 1,660 units disease causing pathogens Assistance to Adopted Private Graineurs to process 40,000 Rs 3 lakh for grainage building, equipment, consumables, cocoons to produce 6,000 DFLs working capital, purchase of seed cocoons, incentives, insurance coverage, etc. 450 private graineurs to be supported Assistance to mobile testing facility for disease monitoring 9 mobile testing units to be supported with unit cost of and seed cocoon testing Rs 7 lakh Door-to-door service agent for disinfection of block 46 door-to-door service agents with unit cost of Rs 1.5 lakh plantations and input supply to rearers Unemployed youth, entrepreneurs to be provided motorcycles or three-wheelers with disinfecting equipment like power sprayer and safety devices, etc. Grainage building at government farms (RKVY) Rs 72 lakh for three buildings Tasar Bandhu for technology transfer (RKVY) Rs 8.56 lakh for 16 Tasar Bandhus

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The MKSP project is being implemented in Belhar, Chandan and Katoria blocks of Banka district in Bihar, by Bihar Rural Livelihoods Promotion Society (BRLPS) with field-level implementation by PRADAN under technical guidance from Central Silk Board (CSB). Table 3.15 below gives details of the programme (2013-14 to 2015-16), ‘Promotion of Large Scale Tasar Sericulture-based Livelihoods in Bihar’:

Total Beneficiaries Basic Commercial Reelable Block BSPU Nursery Nucleus Basic Grainage Commercial outlay DFLs DFLs cocoons plantations farmers seed seed rearers rearers rearers Rs 8.925 500 ha crore 3,161 0.5 2.4 lakh 2.22 crore 1 89 40 100 24 1,439 lakh 508 ha 75% regenerations MoRD 25% CSB

The programme is expected to produce 17,760 kg of raw silk, with women institutions being the principal implementing body. It targets to cover 3,161 beneficiaries and promote 53 community service providers.

The key expected outputs of the project aimed at enhancing family income by Rs 10,000m to Rs 18,700 with 60% women participation through tasar sericulture, are:

 Building the capacities of all participating families in adopting skills to effectively and profitably engage in livelihood activities based on tasar sericulture  Introduction of improved technologies and practices to push the productivity frontiers for accelerated growth in tasar sector  Strengthening the seed sector to eliminate the key supply constraint in tasar sericulture  Investment to create alternative market mechanisms to ensure fair prices for cocoons  Promote producers’ collective to provide sustainable systems of services to producers  Design development and dissemination

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

State programmes

The Mukhya Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP) is the flagship tasar augmentation programme in the state. Table 3.16 shows the salient features of the programme:

Components Details Implementation area Banka, Nawada, Munger and Kaimur Project period 2012-17 Implementation Directorate of Handloom & Sericulture, Patna, through PPCs agency Supporting agencies Forest Department, JFM Committees, Jeevika Total outlay Rs 17,090.12 lakh  8,030 ha of forest land and 5,200 ha of private land Principal activities will be taken up under tasar plantations (Pre-cocoon)  540 rearers’ SHGs led by the Resham Mitra will be engaged in plantations, mixed farming, rearing, DFL production, etc.  540 grainage construction  Strengthening of five PPCs  Establishment of five cocoon banks  Training and Exposure, etc.  Basic Seed DFLs - 5 lakh Benefits  Commercial DFLs - 35.64 lakh  Nucleus cocoons - 25.20 lakh  Basic seed cocoons - 243 lakh  Commercial cocoons - 2,138.40 lakh  29.40 person days employment generation (including post-cocoon)  Increase in forest area  Environmental sustainability

By the end of 2015, about 4,170 ha of forest land and 2,000 ha of private land had been taken up under plantations.

Under non-plan programmes, each PPC is supposed to produce 45,000 DFLs and distribute them to rearers at Re 1/DFL. Apart from this, PPCs are also responsible for providing technical support and training rearers in their respective areas. A Tasar Marketing Organisation was to be established at Banka for marketing of the cocoons.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4. Yarn Conversion

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.1 History and background

Bhagalpur is famous for tasar silk and its products. As per the Demonstration Cum Technical Service Centre (DCTSC), Central Silk Board (CSB), in Bhagalpur, there are about 13,268 tasar weavers in Bhagalpur and Banka districts, however, in reality the number will not exceed 3,000; Gaya cluster is estimated to have about 400 weavers. Traditional thigh reeling and spinning is done by the women folk in the weaver’s households, numbering about 800 to 900 in Bhagalpur and Gaya clusters.

Assuming a production of 5 m/day/loom, the total production of raw silk in 300 days of employment would be about 360 MT. But in 2015-16, Bihar produced just 41 MT of raw silk, which could meet only 9% of the potential demand. This is one of the principal reasons for entrepreneurs and weavers to move over to Chinese yarns or shift to eri, mulberry or cotton or art silk. It was estimated that 20 MT of reeled tasar and 15 MT of spun tasar was utilised in Bhagalpur cluster annually, as compared to 400 MT of Chinese yarns, etc.

Reeling, spinning and weaving are an integrated activity for the entire weaver household; usually, the women and daughters of the household are engaged in processing cocoons into reeled and spun yarn, which are further woven by men as well as older women in the family into cloth, with children assisting is setting up the warp. No outside labour is used.

Silk has a long history in the region which was a pre-eminent silk exporter of South Asia. Rearers would carry out collection and rearing of cocoons in the forest, which were further converted into yarn and fabric and sold all over India, southeast Asia, Persia (now Iran) as well as other parts of Middle East through the silk route. Large quantities of textiles were exported to The Netherlands and England as European companies and traders came in the 16th and 17th centuries. The European companies set up trading posts (factories) and vied for direct control of the lucrative trade in silk fabrics and increasingly raw silk. As the East India Company came to dominate the trade, in addition to factories, they also set up silk reeling establishments (filatures) where export quality raw silk was produced. By 1780, the region produced 60% of raw silk used in the flourishing English silk industry.

In around 1810, Dr. Buchanan Hamilton estimated that there were 3,275 looms at work in Bhagalpur district. Historically, Bhagalpur has been famous for bafta, a coarse fabric of uniform colour made from tasar warp and cotton weft. In 1883-84, weavers in Bhagalpur produced 46,726 pieces valued at Rs 2.01 lakh. In 1886-87, M/s R Watson & Co bought Rs 20,000 worth tasar cocoons which greatly hiked local prices. However, the production kept declining and by 1888-89, 39,948 pieces were valued a little over Rs 1 lakh. In 1903, there were about 2,000 tasar weavers (of Tanti, Golas and Momin communities) in Sadar division of Bhagalpur, while in 1910, 1,000 looms and about 450 families were reported to be engaged in the industry. The main centres were Champanagar, Nathnagar, Rampur, Kelahavi, Kutubganj, Khanjarpur, Lodipur, Puraini, Mustafferpur, Radhanagar and Dariapur. The cocoons were brought from Gaya, Santhal Parganas, Hazaribagh (now in Jharkhand), Siuri (Birbhum district, West Bengal), Bankura (Bankura district, West Bengal) and Manbhum (Purulia, etc., West Bengal). The cocoons were sold at Nathnagar for 80 to 250 cocoons to a rupee; pierced cocoons were sold at 100 to 400 to a rupee based on quality. A tola of tasar silk (11.66 g) required 15 to 20 cocoons (0.58 to 0.78 g/cocoon up to 0.84 g) and about eight to 10 tolas (105 g) of raw silk would bring in a rupee (Rs 9.52/kg). The weavers primarily belonged to Patwas, Momins, Tantis and Tatamas communities.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Cheaper products used 3 ply yarns while higher priced ones went up to 7 ply. The main products were bafta which has tasar warp and cotton weft; pieces of 6, 10 and 12 yards (5.4 to 11 m) were made and dyed by weavers – a weaver could make about three pieces of 12 yards (totalling ~ 33 m) in a month. Pure tasar cloth and bafta were used in dhotis, saris, coats, overcoats, chapkans, pakris and wrappers (dhosa). Natural as well as chemical dyes were used for colouring tasar. The tasar weavers were largely controlled by the mahajans (money lender-trader community) and were slightly better off than the cotton weavers.

Table 4.1 shows the price of the various fabrics in Bhagalpur in 1903:

Fabric products Price (Rs) Tasar sari or dhoti - 10 yards (9 m) 7 to 10 Coats 10 to 15 yards (9 to 14 m) 5 to 15 Danzi Sarh bafta – 11 yards (10 m) 3 to 5 Pakris – 7 yards (6.4 m) 1.50 to 3 Bafta coat – 12 yards (11 m) 10 Bafta wrappers (dhosa)- 5.5 to 7 yards (5 to 6.4 m) 2.25 to 5.50

Dariyas were made too, with warp of three parts cotton and two parts tasar in different colours; the weft was of only cotton in one colour, thus the cloth appeared striped lengthwise with yarns of different colours. The dariyas were 9.6 m long and 0.7 m wide. A weaver could make eight such pieces in a month.

Namunas were pieces measuring 0.6 m long and 0.8 m wide and made of warp with cotton and tasar ratio of 60:40 in varied patterns, while the weft was completely cotton. A weaver could make seven such pieces in month.

Charkhanas were 8.2 m long and 0.5 m wide and made of warp with cotton and tasar ratio of 2:3 and the weft with cotton and tasar ratio of 5:9, thus giving it a chequered pattern. A weaver could make six such pieces in a month.

Kharsaris were made for household use, like dariyas but of inferior quality in size and firmness. They were usually 2.4 m long and 0.9 m wide with colourful yarns dyed by the weavers. About eight pieces of these could be made in a month. The pure tasar kharsari was called tul.

Dhupchaya was a bright blue bafta and mayurkanti was white silk figured in blue. Lohan gowal was figured silk worn by the upper castes.

In 1897-98, Gaya cluster produced Rs 81,100 worth of tasar goods, chiefly carried out in the Sadar division (Buniadganj, Manpur, Gayawalbigha and Chakhand) of Gaya district as well as Nawada (Kadirganj and Akbarpur) and Aurangabad district (Daudnagar). Cocoon rearing had been carried out in the Sherghati forests, close to the Palamau (now in Jharkhand) border, but had been discontinued since the 1890s. Most the cocoons in 1903 were brought from Palamau and Hazaribagh districts (now in Jharkhand).

There were 250 looms in Buniadgaunj and Manpur which could produce a piece of high quality fabric in three days and coarser varieties in a day or two. The products were priced from 60 paise to Rs 8, thus, about 30,000 pieces valued at Rs 75,000 were produced at the two centres annually. Most of the cloth produced here was sold in Gaya or sent to Azamgarh (Uttar Pradesh). Manpuri silk was used as murdaris (shrouds for the dead) across the country.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

There were 14 families who earned Rs 500 to 1,000 per month; however, the average daily income of a weaver with four to five looms did not exceed Rs 4. An ordinary patwa (weaver) would just make 2 annas (~ 12 paise) a day.

In 1897-98, Kadirganj and Akbarpur produced 6,800 yards (6,200 m) of cloth valued at Rs 5,100. However, the quality was extremely coarse and poor.

Gayawalbigha and Chakhand had five and 14 weaver (patwas) families, respectively, and produced about Rs 500 worth of tasar goods, primarily coarse cloth (chakand) and dhotis (gayawalbigha) which were primarily sold at Gaya.

However, the industry continuously declined with the advent of mill-made cloth; in places like Daudnagar, the weavers had stopped weaving silk and had moved to cotton or to wage labour in just about a decade since the 1890s. In Manpur- Buniadganj, weaving declined from 200 to just 100 families who regularly work on silk and bafta.

In Kadirganj and Akbarpur, 60 families were engaged in weaving in 1898-99, producing silk worth Rs 5,000 which declined by 30% within a decade.

At Daudnagar, about 15 families were engaged in weaving, producing 1,440 m of bafta at Rs 600. Gaya and Nawada were the main markets and assembling centres.

Silk has been used in ceremonial purposes since the Vedic times and with Gaya being a pilgrim city, there was high demand. The main products were thans (yardage) for making angas, chapkans, kurtas and also saris and chadders. Most of the weaving was done from December to March when the best crop was available; the remaining time was slack season when weavers carried out minimal work or other engagements.

In Patna district, potia or tasar silk cloth was manufactured to some extent in Bihar Sharif; the cocoons were obtained from Bhagalpur and Hazaribagh by traders at Alinagar (Bihar Sharif).

The main products were thans of 10 yards (9.1 m) of natural tasar colour or dhotis and saris usually in yellow and red as well as bafta. Most of the products were sold locally or through traders to Calcutta. The weavers would also weave bafta and cotton fabrics when cocoons were not available. Most of the weavers were of the Patwa community; there were also a few Jolhas in Assannagore (Bihar Sharif) who would make fine muslins using cotton in the warp and tasar silk in the weft along with floral embroidery like Jamdani patterns. There were 200 looms in the district and the estimated production per loom was 30 thans (27 m) annually. The price of one than varied from Rs 4 to Rs 9.

In 1886, at Raipura (Fatuha), there were 1,000 looms engaged in weaving of silk and cotton.

Tasar reeling was also done in Arrah (Ara) by traditional method. Mr Peppe, the opium duty collector in Arrah, had attempted to establish a tasar reeling industry.

Around 1830, it was widely believed in both Italy and France that Bengal (including Bihar) silk had become a serious problem for European sericulture. By 1835, East India Company decided to give up direct control of silk trade in favour of private companies. It sold its 11 head factories and over 100 filatures that till then had played a minor role. These companies ran many filatures and used a system of advances to bind silk reelers and weavers.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The major private companies were M/s Robert Watson & Co, M/s Louis Payen & Co, the Bengal Silk Company, James Lyall & Co, M/s W G Morey & E Gallois, M/s Jardine, Skinner & Co, M/s Anderson, Wright & Co and M/s Perrin & Co. Privatisation led to decline in the quality and stagnation of technology. As technologically sophisticated silk industries developed in Europe in the 18th century, European interests turned to raw silk yarns than finished products. Thus, the more labour intensive tasks of the production process were taken up locally and a number of silk filatures came up in Bengal, from where yarn was sent to Europe for fabric conversion. Indebtedness and coercion gradually forced the reelers and weavers out of their occupations; only the most labour intensive rearing process was retained which also yielded the lowest returns.

Up to 1850s, the exports consisted only of reeled yarns, but between 1856 -1870, about 25% of the raw silk export was silk waste which fetched less than one-tenth of the price of reeled silk. Cocoons were also exported for the first time in 1870, making up 7% of the raw silk export. By 1910, about 75% of the exports were cheap silk waste.

The threat from Bengal silk induced technological innovations in Europe which gradually became major competitors by 1870. Competition from China, France, Italy and eastern Mediterranean in the European markets and import of Chinese and Japanese yarns in India resulted in the loss of forge in markets. Along with this, increasing competition from artificial silk and cultural changes further sealed the fate.

By 1870, a million kg of raw silk was exported from Bengal as compared to 3.5 million by China; by 1900, the exports reduced by half as the Chinese almost doubled and by 1920s, the exports dwindled to insignificance. As profits declined after 1875, many companies sought more promising activities and gradually closed down; the last filature of M/s Anderson, Wright & Co was closed in 1927.

Apart from yarn conversion, tasar cocoons were also used for tying matchlocks, for tobacco boxes and bells in woodcutter’s belt locally.

4.2 Traditional post-cocoon operations

Traditionally, the process of manufacture involved four steps: preparation of cocoon, spinning, warping and weaving. Once the cocoons were procured, they were sundried and steamed in an earthen vessel and then dried again. The combination of heat and moisture loosened the fibres, making them easy to reel. In Bihar Sharif, the cocoons were steamed for half an hour, by placing a pot with small holes and containing the cocoons over another pot in which water was boiled; this was followed by drying. In Gaya, the cocoons were placed in earthen pots, gharas and were boiled with saji mitti for three hours (in Bihar Sharif, crude carbonate of soda and saji mitti were used and boiled for two hours), after which it was allowed to cool; they were then taken out and placed in baskets where cold water was poured over them to clean the cocoons. The pupa (pilu) would be dead by then and the cocoon cleaned as well as the outer husk of silk softened for reeling. In Bhagalpur, 5 pons of cocoons (405 pieces) were put in a large earthen pot with seven litres of water, with a small mat placed at the bottom to prevent the cocoons from getting burned. A small quantity of potash tied to a cloth was also placed in the pot which was then boiled for an hour.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The cocoons were further cooled and the water changed. They were boiled again with two and a half litres of water for less than an hour, after which they were placed in a basket to cool. The cocoons were then washed in cold water and put to dry in a layer of cow dung ashes, where they remained spread and covered with cloth for six hours. After this, the cocoons were further dried in sunlight for a day.

Spinning was done entirely by women who would sit with a spindle in the right hand and two pots on the left side; one of these pots contained the cocoons to be reeled, while the other contained water. At a time, four to 12 cocoons (up to 20 cocoons in Bihar Sharif) were spun; first, the thread was drawn with the thumb and the index finger and the waste silk (pheti or jhuri) was reeled upon a separate spindle. This waste silk was sent to Calcutta (Kolkata) to be worked by expert weavers as well as for making potter brushes or yarn for knitting. After reeling of the waste silk, the filament of tasar silk was drawn from each cocoon after moistening the cocoon, and attached to a conical reel called natai (tariya in Bhagalpur, latami in Bihar Sharif). When ready for work, the four filaments (already attached to the natai) were laid over the woman’s thigh which would be dampened with water, and with a forward-backward movement, the spinner would twist the filaments into a strand with her left hand while simultaneously turning the natai with her right hand which received and reeled the yarn. In a typical day, as many as 80-90 cocoons (~ 40 cocoons in Bhagalpur) were reeled to produce a kanama or chitak of silk (~ 58 g; 72 to 87 g in Bihar Sharif). The reelers got 5 paise as wages for their work; for waste silk, the wages were Rs 1 to 2 for six seers (5.6 kg).

Fig 4.1 - Traditional thigh reeling of tasar at Fatuha (Patna district), Bihar (adopted from Wild Silks of India by T Wardle, 1881)

The cocoons were procured at Rs 8 for a kahan at 1% commission through traders at Buniadganj (Gaya district) while in Bihar Sharif, the cocoons were purchased in batches of 325 gandas (325 x 4 = 1,300 pieces) called 1 Hadi costing Rs 5 to Rs 8. A hadi of cocoons would yield a seer (933 g) of thread, equivalent to 0.72 grams per cocoon, for which the spinner received Re 1. A seer (933 g) of yarn would sell for Rs 8 to Rs 9 (Rs 9.13/kg).

Spinning required extremely delicate hands and light touch, not only for twisting the silk but also for attaching one or more filaments if they broke. The skill of reeling was acquired in early childhood and mostly done by spinsters.

Once the silk was spun on the natai and left to dry, it was tied into knots or three-inch long skeins (7.6 cm) called kharchi (bundles called auti in Bihar Sharif). These were stored in vessels to prevent damage from rats. Subsequently, they were joined together into larger skeins and once more placed on the natais for setting the warp and further weaving. Starching was done by soaking each seer (933 g) of yarn bundles in a mixture of half seer (466 g) rice flour and five seers of (4.6 litres) water.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

After the skeins were saturated, they were loosened and wound onto a thin bamboo wheel called charkhi. The end of the skein was then transferred to a latai by turning it with the right hand while the thread was passed between the thumb and the index finger of the left hand; in case of dyed yarn, dyeing preceded starching. After the yarn was wound into convenient bundles and skeins, they were ready for warping and further weaving.

In Bihar Sharif, pierced cocoons were also reeled using the process described above and utilised in weft. A coarse kind of cloth called potia was made from this which was sold at Rs 6 per piece of 10 yards (9.1 m).

In Gaya, a weaver preparing bafta cloth would weave three yards (2.7 m) in a day and earn 4 annas (24 paise) per yard (equivalent to 72 paise per day) or 2.5 yards (2.25 m) of coarse tasar cloth to get 8 annas (50 paise) per yard (equivalent to Rs 1.20 per day). For the best quality cloth, only 1.5 yards (1.35 m) could be woven in a day. The cloth sold depending on its quality, from 4 annas (25 paise) to Rs 2 per yard. The incomes were primarily for labour as the instruments (patata, narad, rank, chopta and charkha) were quite inexpensive and could be obtained at Re 1 from local carpenters and lasted more than 25 years. The weavers also used to make coarse fabric for children, using surplus silk that was sold locally and required only a wooden reel and an iron hook (ankusa) with a ring that went around the toe.

In Bihar Sharif, a weaver could prepare 2.5 yards (~ 2.3 m) in a day and got a wage of Re 1 for weaving a than of 10 yards (9.1 m).

While the natural colour of tasar was preferred, demand for coloured yarns (carmine and yellow were preferred) were met by dyers by primarily using vegetable dyes in Gaya district. However, in Bhagalpur district, synthetic aniline dyes had begun to be used for convenience. The vegetable dyes used were flowers of kusum (safflower), siuli (Nyctanthus arbortritis) and palas (Butea monosperma) as well as haldi (turmeric), kusis (Iron sulphate) and indigo. In many cases, two dyes were mixed to form a third colour e.g. khaki was made by mixing haldi with kusis. A combination of colours in warp and weft were also used (e.g. red warp and green weft for the peacock colour).

4.3 Post-cocoon interventions currently

The principal centres of post-cocoon activities in tasar continue to be Bhagalpur, Banka and, to some extent, in around Gaya. The majority of tasar reeling is carried out through traditional thigh reeling. PRADAN had introduced motorised reeling & twisting machines (MRTM) and spinning machines in a few villages in Banka district under UNDP and Special SGSY programme. However, only a few centres operate now, managed by EcoTasar, and utilised by them. As per officials, the primary reason for the non-adoption of MRTM machines is the poor productivity and quality of yarns; apart from this, most programmes require 25% beneficiary contribution which amounts to Rs 5,000 or more, which is seen as too big an amount to invest.

The Mukhya Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP) plans to mobilise 135 self-help groups (SHGs) and facilitate yarn production in Common Facility Centres (CFCs) as well as develop five cocoon banks. The project is expected to generate

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

172 MT of reeled yarn and 70 MT of spun yarn valued at Rs 51.4 crore. Till the end of 2015, about seven CFCs were under construction.

Bhagalpur and Banka districts

As per Demonstration Cum Technical Service Centre (DCTSC), Bhagalpur, there are 13,268 silk handloom weavers in Bhagalpur and Banka districts; however, in reality not more than 3,000 weavers would be working with tasar at present. A yarn market study done by Rajashekhar et al in 2008 mentions about 3,500 to 5,000 handlooms and a tasar consumption of 450 MT. Table 4.2 shows the different centres and estimated silk handlooms in the two districts:

Bhagalpur Banka Area/Block Handlooms Area/Block Handlooms Bhagalpur 1,887 Rajoun 507 Sahkund 1,105 Amarpur 960 Sultanganj 173 Banka 1,247 Sabour 112 Katoria 125 Bihpur 299 Barahat 429 Kahalgaon 42 Bounsi 737 Pirpaity 213 Dhoraiya 965 Khatik 546 Jagdishpur 2,717 Nathnagar 797 Gouradih 200 Sanhola 206 TOTAL 8,298 TOTAL 4,970

The cocoons are obtained from Banka district as well as Godda, Dumka, Paschim Singhbhum (Jharkhand) as well as parts of Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh. The cocoons are directly purchased by the reelers-weavers either from the open market or, more generally, from traders. The constant uncertainty of raw materials and fluctuating prices has resulted in weavers and entrepreneurs shifting from tasar to other silks such as eri and mulberry or into cotton. The major yarns (~ 80%) used in the area are of Chinese origin, where an estimated 400 MT are annually used in the city itself, primarily for warp. Apart from this, eri and mulberry have also gained popularity over tasar. At the time of the study, not more than 20 MT of reeled and 15 MT of spun tasar yarn was estimated to being consumed annually. Yarns (tasar reeled, Ghicha, Katia) are also obtained from the neighbouring states of Jharkhand, West Bengal, Chhattisgarh and Odisha.

As discussed above, traditional thigh reeling continues to be the only viable technology for yarn extraction in the area. Bhagalpur is more famous for the coarse fabric which caters to the export market demand constituting furnishing, dress materials and blends of the following types:

Tasar x Ghicha, Tasar x Katia, Tasar x Ghicha x Noel, Tasar x Jhuri, Tasar x Mata, Tasar x Viscose, Tasar x Cotton x Viscose, Tasar x Linen

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The weavers are completely dependent on entrepreneurs, suppliers, traders and exporters. First, the sample fabrics are prepared and, depending on the demand, price and other logistics, fabric production is taken up in bulk engaging local artisans as per the job work. The finished products are sold in the city as well as in the metros through retail shops; some of them are also exported.

The weavers largely use the traditional wooden pit loom for fabric production which costs Rs 14,000 to Rs 16,000 and which lasts for more than 25 years. However, as per CSB officials, the pit looms are difficult to run, unhygienic and inefficient in terms of both quality (texture) and quantity of production, and thus, reducing the potential income of the weavers. So iron frame looms based on the Anantapur (in Andhra Pradesh) model were introduced; 55 such looms were distributed but they were not accepted by the weavers, since they were more expensive and heavier and also required more space.

So further, wooden frame looms adopted to tasar silk weaving were developed at a cost of Rs 28,000 and 20 such machines have been distributed in Bhagalpur district (e.g. Resham Bunkar Sewa Udyog in Lodipur, Nathnagar, etc.) against a target of 70. According to the DCTSC, these looms are easier to run and produced better texture cloth, and have increased the weaver’s income. However, these looms have failed to catch on, since it involves a beneficiary contribution of 25% (equivalent to Rs 7,000) which is almost two months of a weaver’s income.

The weavers feel more comfortable in the pit looms which provide a comfortable sitting posture while the humid environment (due to the pit) prevents the yarn from becoming brittle and bleaching; it also makes the fabric more breathable and absorbs the tension and speed of weaving better than frame looms. Some weavers also said that since the loom is at the ground level, there is less chance of the fly shuttle getting damaged, if it happens to fall. These looms are very light and can be easily disassembled, transported and reassembled back by the weavers themselves. The spares and repairs can be done locally mostly at home and they last long.

There are many small makeshift dyeing units that use traditional methods for dyeing. Such facilities mostly use chemical dyes and there are no effluent treatment plants for them. According to officials, most of the small dyeing units use poor quality dyes (as compared to metal complex ones) and have limited understanding on factors like timing and temperature, thus affecting colour fastness of the fabric. Under the 11th Plan of Catalytic Development Programme (CDP), a yarn dyeing unit (arm dyeing) of 50-kg capacity and a fabric dyeing unit of 250-kg capacity have been developed at the Barari Industrial Estate. Another fabric dyeing unit of 250-kg capacity and an effluent treatment plant were being planned for 2015-16.

The Weavers’ Service Centre (WSC) at Bhagalpur was established in 1974 and since then, has been providing technical skill upgradation training in weaving, dyeing, printing and designing to weavers of Bihar and Jharkhand. The centre provides samples of fabric and paper designs along with other technical services to interested poor weavers at nominal rates decided by the Government of India.

The WSC has 17 staff (including three master weavers) with three major sub-units for designing, weaving and dyeing/printing. The design centre engages artisans for development of weaving and printing designs as well as graph paper for jacquard or draw looms. At the weaving sub-unit, revival of traditional costumes is being carried out. Apart from this, different yarns are also used to create new designs as per fashion trends.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The WSC is also working on increasing the efficiency of weaving and loom operations. The dyeing/printing sub-unit is engaged in addressing the problems of dyeing and printing. Shade cards and manuals for dyeing have been developed while experiments on use of vegetable dyes for dyeing and printing are being carried out. The centre has a well-developed library and documentation centre with fabric samples and photographs as well as a rich repository of traditional costumes.

Plate 4.1 – The Weavers’ Service Centre at Bhagalpur

The main activities of the WCS are:

 Skill development in designing/dyeing/printing/weaving through design of samples as per trends  Skill upgradation in weaving techniques  Skill upgradation in dyeing/printing techniques  Training programmes on latest weaving, dyeing, printing and design techniques  Trouble shooting and providing technical services in weaving, dyeing, printing and paper designs  Organising exhibitions and seminars on weaving, dyeing, printing and designing  Study on traditional textile designs  Promotion and marketing of handmade textiles  Convergence with State Government towards implementation and completion of central schemes for handloom weavers  Training courses of one month and six months are provided on weaving, dyeing, printing and design development at a nominal fees of Rs 600 per month  Skill upgradation of weavers and master weavers by experienced staff of the WCS on latest techniques

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Interventions of PRADAN in post-cocoon sector

PRADAN initiated tasar spinning among women SHGs in 1991 in Rajdaha village (Banka district), with the pedal-operated Trivedi charkha. Later in 1994, it experimented with twin charkhas for reeling at Raksa village (Dumka district in Jharkhand). The activities were facilitated by PRADAN under UNDP project (2000 to 2003) and a few MRTM machines were obtained (at 50% subsidy) and field tested at Raksa village in 2001. Initially, motorised machines were provided, but since there was no electricity in the village and the cost of running a genset was high, the women opted for the pedal-operated machines with flexible timings. Under the Special SGSY project (2003 to 2012), a number of CFCs were constructed. The activity was largely restricted to women from Other Backward Classes (OBCs) as the tribal ways of life did not suit sedentary activities.

Similar groups were initiated in spinning as well, but no CFCs were developed as the machines were small and portable and could be easily worked from home. The machines costing Rs 2,500 were provided out of the project money. By the end of the SGSY project in 2013, there were eight CFCs in Bihar with 275 reelers and 251 spinners.

TDC (Tasar Development Center) under the banner of PRADAN was engaged in marketing of reeled and spun yarn from 1998 to 2005; through gradual introduction of the yarns in Bhagalpur and other markets in Gujarat, Tamil Nadu and Uttaranchal, the sales turnover reached 100 MT in 2005. The Masuta Producers Company Limited was launched in 2005, taking over TDC’s activities of marketing both yarn and fabric. In 2007, the fabric business was hived off as a joint venture company, EcoTasar Silk Private Limited, and Masuta exclusively concentrated in yarn production and markets. It was primarily started with the objectives of creating wage opportunities for large number of reelers and spinners, handloom weavers, etc. through sustainable and fair business approaches.

Masuta had 2,900 women reelers and spinners organised in 86 groups as shareholders and were managed by a Chief Executive Officer (CEO) appointed by PRADAN. Masuta reached a sales turnover of Rs 17 crore at its peak. Masuta was producing five types of reeled yarn and six types of spun yarn. From 2008 onwards, the quality (poor denier) and quantity of yarn began to decline and by 2012-13, yarn production dropped to 16% from the 2008-09 levels, compelling EcoTasar to look for alternative types of yarn to stay afloat. The current turnover of EcoTasar is about Rs 17.5 crore annually.

With the closure of Masuta in 2013, EcoTasar slowly began revival of the post-cocoon activities. In 2015, EcoTasar was processing 25,000 reelable cocoons (Daba BV) and 50,000 pierced cocoons every month, with targets to reach up to one lakh reelable cocoons and two lakh pierced cocoons. The reelable cocoons were procured from local traders at Rs 2.5 to Rs 3 per piece (good quality) while the pierced cocoons were obtained from tasar cooperatives promoted by PRADAN, at Rs 1.70 per piece. The reelable cocoons are stifled at the cocoon bank in Chandubathan (Dumka district, Jharkhand) promoted by PRADAN and stored at the EcoTasar office in Saraiyahaat (Dumka district, Jharkhand). EcoTasar plans to develop a stifling unit at Saraiyahaat.

Reeling is being carried out in Raksa (Dumka district, Jharkhand) and spinning in Chunakothi, Rajda and Kothia in Banka district. EcoTasar is working with 150 weavers and six dyeing centres in the area on job work basis.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Though the reeling centre at Raksa (Jharkhand) has 60 members, only 20 of them are active reelers at present. About 1,000 Daba BV cocoons yield 1 kg of reeled yarn and 150 g of silk waste. Annually, about 300 kg of reeled yarn of Grade A and Grade B is produced, where B predominates; C is usually rejected. Table 4.3 shows the criteria of establishing the grades of yarn and purchase rates:

Yarn grade Weight of yarn per Denier Procurement 500 m price (Rs/kg) A Up to 15 g < 100 5,500 B 15 to 20 100 to 150 5,200 C > 20 g > 150 Rejected Reel waste -- -- 400

Half of the reeled yarn produced is sold at Rs 6,000/kg to Uttaranchal, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Manipur while the remaining is used to make fabric. The product range includes stoles, sari, dupattas, shirts and salwars. No reeled yarns are purchased from outside.

There are 60 spinners, primarily in villages of Chandankothi, Rajdaha and Kothia (Banka district), engaged in spun silk production through pedal-operated Trivedi charkha. A kilo of yarn is produced from 1,000 Daba BV pierced cocoons along with 50 g of waste. Annually, 600 kg of spun yarn is being produced in grades A, B and C, which has about 10% variance in weight per 500 m. Table 4.4 below, shows the rates of spun yarn sold in different grades:

Spun yarn grade Procurement price (Rs/kg) A 2,300 B 2,200 C 2,100 Spun waste 300

Similarly, half of the spun yarn is sold at Rs 2,600 per kg to outside markets, as mentioned above, while the other half is used for production of fabric like throws, stoles, shirts and furnishing. About 250 kg spun yarns are also purchased from Bishnupur in West Bengal. Dyeing is generally done at the small units and costs Rs 150/kg; for export orders, azo-free and pentachlorophenol (PCP)-free chemical dyes are used. Vegetable dyes are generally not preferred due to issues in matching of shades and non-availability. There are 150 weavers (80% Jolhas and 20% Tanti) who work on traditional pit handlooms. The Chinese 37 denier (at Rs 4,100/kg) is used in warp and tasar reeled and spun yarns are used in weft.

Tasar yarns are less preferred over Chinese yarns, especially for warp, due to the following reasons:

 High denier and thus, requires more quantity as compared to Chinese yarns for the same fabric length  Tasar is more expensive, since a larger quantity is required  Does not have smoothness and easy workability  Has more breakage and pilling problem is common  For use in warp, tasar involves starching and elaborate procedure which requires higher skill

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Each running meter of a single ply fabric requires 20 g of warp yarn (Chinese 37 denier) and 50 g of tasar reeled yarn (single ply). Thus, a sari of 6.5 m would require about 300 g of tasar reeled yarn in weft and 130 g to 260 g Chinese yarn in warp, depending on being single or double ply. In case of spun yarn, the requirement would be 70g to 100 g per running meter.

Each weaver can produce five meters of fabric in a day, earning Rs 60 per meter (equivalent to Rs 200 per day).

Annually, 5,000 running meters of yardage is produced along with 2,000 pieces of saris, 5,000 pieces of stoles and 2,000 pieces of throws. The product range and price is mentioned in Table 4.5 below:

Product Rate Yardage Rs 500 per running meter Sari Rs 3,000 per piece (plain) Stole Rs 600 per piece Throw Rs 1,500 per piece

Block printing is done locally as per order at Rs 25 per meter while screen printing is done in Delhi.

The fabric prices are dependent on prevailing yarn prices as well as order conditions. About 60% of the fabrics are exported primarily to the USA and Germany and the remaining 40% is sold in Bangalore, Mumbai and Delhi; EcoTasar has a retail outlet in Delhi. Largely, the weavers have not received much assistance from the different schemes; an eye camp and a health check- up was organised by EcoTasar.

Plate 4.2 - Machine reeled and machine spun tasar yarn of EcoTasar

Plate 4.3 - Scarves for export from EcoTasar

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The principal issues of concern raised were:

 Shortage of quality cocoons and yarn  High procurement costs  90% of the traditional weavers have shifted to tailoring and other vocations  The remaining have grown old and have poor eyesight and health  The younger generation is not interested in taking up weaving any more  Even though EcoTasar has a capacity to produce four lakh meters yardage annually, only 50% is utilised presently.  Currently, less than 20% of the production is from tasar yarns; the majority (50%) is from eri and the remaining from mulberry and cotton.

Spinning at Chandankothi

Chandana Devi is one of the spinners with EcoTasar in Chandankothi village in Banka district, who has been engaged in the activity since 2003. During the Special SGSY project, PRADAN had initiated spinning in the village as a supplementary livelihood activity.

Chandana Devi uses a 12-year-old Trivedi charkha for spinning; she can spin up to 150 flimsy or 125 pierced cocoons in a day to produce 100 g of spun silk in about seven to eight hours. There are about 12 spinners in the village who carry out the activity during eight to nine months in a year. The cocoons are obtained from the EcoTasar office at Saraiyahaat (Dumka district, Jharkhand) and after being spun, the yarns are deposited back there. Payment is as per the yarn grade (Rs 1,700/kg for Grade A and Rs 1,450/kg for Grade B) as per the criteria mentioned above.

About 100 pierced/flimsy cocoons are treated with 7 g to 8 g of soda (sodium carbonate) and boiled in two litres of water; after being cooled down, the cocoons are spun on the machine. In case of bleached yarns, 100 cocoons are boiled using 100 ml to 120 ml hydrogen peroxide and 10 g to 12 g of sunlight soap, and spun subsequently. About 200 g of spun waste is generated after spinning 1,000 cocoons, which are sold to local traders at Bandri for Rs 40/kg.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The economics of spinning one kg of yarn is shown in Table 4.6 below:

Spun natural yarn Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amount (Rs) Flimsy cocoons 1,400 1.40 1,960 pieces Soda 105 g 0.06 6 Total cost 1,966 Spun yarn-B 1 kg 2200 2,200 Spun waste 0.28 kg 40 11 Gross income 2,211 Net income 245 Spun bleached yarn Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Flimsy cocoons 1,400 1.40 1,960 pieces Hydrogen peroxide 1.5 lt 50 75 Sunlight soap 154 g 0.18 28 Total cost 2,063 Bleached spun yarn- 1 kg 2,400 2,400 B Spun waste 0.28 kg 40 11 Gross income 2,411 Net income 348

In a month, the spinners make 2.5 kg to 3 kg of yarn, thus earning Rs 674 to Rs 957. It was also reported that spinners use arrowroot or starch powder to increase yarn weight for higher returns. The spinners reported that even though the machines have become quite old, they are easy to maintain (spare parts of bicycles works too) and are easily available. Though bleached yarns give higher returns, the demand is less and the quality is difficult to maintain, since bleaching is done in batches at the common level. Regular spinning also causes some skin ailments due to usage of soda.

Due to the high price and unavailability of tasar cocoons, the spinners have begun using mulberry cocoons for mulberry spun and tasar-mulberry blends (1:1).

Spinning is a supplementary livelihood activity and can be done from home, while the machines are easy to maintain and thus, continues to attract the spinners, as compared to reeling.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.4 - Spinning using Trivedi charkha at Chandankothi (Banka district)

Plate 4.5 - Bleached (bottom) and natural spun yarn (top) Plate 4.6 - spun waste

The principal issues of concern are:

 High price and non-availability of cocoons  Low returns from the activity  Need for more efficient machines to be developed for higher productivity

Post-cocoon enterprises in around Bhagalpur

Babu Ali and his family are traditional tasar reelers and weavers of Dumrama village (Bhagalpur district). As marginal farmers, tasar processing has been an important supplementary livelihood for Babu Ali who has been engaged in it for the last 40 years.

Though there are 300 weavers in the area, most of them use Dupion and other yarns because the margins for tasar have greatly reduced in recent years due to high price of raw materials. In 2014, Babu Ali and two more weavers purchased 50 khari (80,000 cocoons) of Raily from Jagdalpur (Chhattisgarh) at Rs 7.81 per piece (Rs 10,000 per khari = 1,280 cocoons).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The cocoons are boiled and stored in earthen ware; a day before the reeling, the cocoons are further boiled for 12 hours with soda and detergent in two buckets of water (40 litres) obtained from the pond. Once the cocoons are cooked, they are selected for reeling based on their softening. There are about 150 reelers in the area carrying out traditional thigh reeling.

The best Raily cocoons (Grade A) yield 3.1 g/cocoon, but on an average, it is 1.8 g; the reelers are able to process 50 g of yarn per day working five to six hours a day and six days a week round the year. The reelers get only Rs 50 for 100 g of tasar yarn reeled (Rs 25/day), while the yarn is priced at Rs 5,500/kg and is largely used to make fabric.

Table 4.7 below shows the economics of a kg of tasar reeled yarn production:

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Raily cocoons 555 pcs 7.81 4,344 Soda and detergent 555 pcs 0.05 28 Firewood 555 pcs 0.02 11 Reeler’s wages 1 kg yarn 500 500 Total cost 4,883 Reeled yarn 1 kg 5,200 5,200 Reel waste (jhuri) 0.07 kg 350 24 Gross income 5,524 Net income 341

Babu Ali was able to process 15 kg of reeled yarn, while the village together generated about 125 kg.

Spinning is not very popular in the area, with only a few women engaged in Ghicha making from pierced cocoons of Daba. In a day, about 60 g to 70 g of Ghicha is processed from 80 pierced cocoons (0.8 g/cocoon). The yarn sells for Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,200 per kg.

The silk waste (jhuri) is sold at Rs 150/kg to traders and, along with peduncles, is converted into Bhand Katia yarn at Katoria (Amarapur block, Banka district). There are no dyeing units and, as per order, tub dyeing is carried out locally.

Currently, only 12 weavers use pit handlooms for weaving; Chinese 37 denier (at Rs 4,000 per kg) or mulberry yarn is used in warp while tasar reeled or Dupion is used in weft. Saris are the preferred choice as the margins in yardage are pretty low. A typical sari of 6.5 m requires 80 g of Chinese 37 denier yarn and 250 g of tasar reeled yarn. Ghicha yarns are used to bring in stripes.

The weavers earn about Rs 200 to 250 per day (Rs 40 per meter), which engages two persons. The sari is sold at a starting price of Rs 1,700 per piece depending on the yarn used and the quality; they are largely sold at Bhagalpur, including EcoTasar. Babu Ali is able to make 200 saris in a year. Apart from intermittent health check-ups and health insurance card, the weavers in the area have received no other benefits.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The principal issues of concern were:

 High price of tasar cocoons and poor availability  Weavers leaving tasar to shift to mulberry and other yarns  Very limited reach of government schemes

Plate 4.7 - Tasar processing and weaving at Dumrama (Banka district)

Shah Alam and his family are traditional tasar processors at Katoria (Amarpur block, Banka District). They procure cocoons from different sources depending on the season: Daba (from Banka, Godda and Dumka) in November-December, Laria from Chaibasa (West Singhbhum, Jharkhand) and Raily from Jagdalpur (Chhattisgarh) in August-September. Modal from Odisha is also used.

In 2013, the weavers in the area had procured five trucks of Raily cocoons (a truck contains 350 sacks each having 2,500 cocoons, amounting to 43.75 lakh cocoons) at Rs 2,200 per 1,000 pieces (Rs 2.20/piece), along with a truck (8.75 lakh) of all other eco-races (Daba, Laria and Modal). However, as the prices of Raily cocoons increased from Rs 5,800 to Rs 7,000 per 1,000 cocoons in 2014 and 2015, only 200 sacks (70,000 cocoons) were procured in 2014 and none in 2015. The Daba and Laria cocoons have been procured at Rs 6,000 per kahan (Rs 4.7 per piece), while Modal was purchased as Rs 5.5 per piece.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Shah Alam processes 50 sacks (1.25 lakh cocoons) annually; there are about 100 reelers in the area who carry out thigh reeling and hand over yarns. About 10 years ago, MRTM machines were distributed, but they were never used. The cocoons are cooked using soda and detergent over a wood stove; about 50 g of soda and detergent are required for 1,000 cocoons.

At a time, about 10 cocoons are taken for reeling. The reelers process 80 cocoons of Daba/Laria and 40 cocoons of Raily/Modal in a day to produce 80 g (1 g/Daba, Laria cocoons) and 70 g (1.75 g/Raily, Modal cocoons) of yarn, respectively. The wages are Rs 45 per pon (equivalent to 80 cocoons) for Daba/Laria and Rs 100 per pon for Raily/Modal. Silk waste (jhuri) of 200 g per khari of Raily and 100 g per khari of Daba is generated during reeling, which is sold at Rs 350/kg. Depending on its quality, the yarn is sold from Rs 5,000 to Rs 5,500 per kg.

It was reported that MRTM yarns do not settle well in the fabric due to the high twist; also, thigh reeling gives an additional 7 g to 10 g of yarn due to the low twist. Tasar yarns were previously used for warp as well, but now, only Chinese yarn of 37 denier is used. For the warp yarn, six cocoons need to be reeled at a time, while for drumming, it is possible to process 16 m to 31 m of yarn at a time. In contrast, 250 m of Chinese yarn can be processed at the same time. Thus, the low returns, high labour and time and inconvenience have caused it to be discontinued.

The economics of producing a kg of reeled yarn is shown in Table 4.8 below:

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Raily cocoons 571 pcs 7 3,997 Soda, detergent and 571 pcs 0.31 177 fuel wood Reeler’s wages 571 pcs 1.25 714 Total cost 4,888 Reeled yarn 1 kg 5,200 5,200 Reel waste (jhuri) 0.07 kg 350 24 Gross income 5,224 Net income 336

The current rates of Daba cocoons were too high to be processed into yarn, thus, the entire reeling activities were dependent on Raily cocoons; Shah Alam had to purchase 100 kg of yarn to continue his work. In Katoria, about 6.5 MT of reeled yarn was produced from Raily cocoons purchased in 2013.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.8 – (L-R) Thigh reeled tasar, Ghicha and Katia Plate 4.9 - Chinese 37 x Ghicha fabric at Katoria (Banka district)

There are 10 to 15 spinners in Katoria who produce a very coarse yarn called Bhand Katia; the jhuri (silk waste) is converted into coarse Katia yarn over earthen hands. The waste and peduncles (danti) are obtained from different places at prices ranging from Rs 350 to Rs 400 per kg. The waste is boiled with soda and processed on the back of a handi (called bhand) to make the yarn. From a kilo of jhuri, about 700 g of Bhand Katia and 200 g of waste is generated. The spinners make 500 g in a day earning Rs 90 per kg. The yarn is sold in Bhagalpur for Rs 700/kg. The yarn is used in weft primarily for production of furnishing for the export market. There are four units processing Bhand Katia; about 600 kg of Bhand Katia is produced in a year.

Table 4.9 below shows the economics of the production of a kg of Bhand Katia yarn:

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Silk waste 1.33 kg 375 499 Cooking cost 1.33 kg 20 27 Spinner’s wages 1.33 kg 45 120 Total cost 646 Bhand Katia 1 kg 700 700 Spun waste 0.27 kg 100 27 Gross income 727 Net income 81

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.10 - Bhand Katia (Katoria, Banka district)

There are 100 active weavers, of whom about 250 households were originally engaged in weaving. Traditional pit handlooms are used with warp of Chinese 37 denier, mulberry or art silk and weft of tasar, Dupion, Katia, Ghicha, Noel, mercerised cotton, eri, etc. About 14 g to 17 g of Chinese 37 denier yarn is required as compared with 40 g to 50 g of reeled tasar and 100 g of Katia; the borders are usually woven using mercerised cotton. The weavers weave about 4 m to 5 m in a day, earning Rs 50 to Rs 60 per meter which amounts to a daily earning of Rs 200 to Rs 300 (engaging two people).

The main products are than (yardage) selling from Rs 350 to Rs 470 per running meter and saris ranging from Rs 1,800 to Rs 2,200 per piece. The principal markets are Bhagalpur, Gaya and Patna. About 35,000 saris and 24,000 running meters of yardage are produced annually in Katoria.

Low returns from weaving in the area have compelled many of the weavers to take up tailoring and have migrated to places like Delhi, Bangalore or even Dubai (UAE).

About three years ago, there were 20 to 25 SHGs working as a weaver cluster and a CFC was proposed; training on dyeing and some yarns were also provided. But currently, they are all defunct.

Assistance received from the government, as mentioned by the weavers includes:

 Cash-credit loans ranging from Rs 12,000 to Rs 20,000 have been written off  Looms have been obtained at 50% subsidy  10 to 15 work sheds have been constructed  Yarns and training on dyeing was done once through the SHGs

The principal issues of concern were:

 High price and lack of availability of cocoons are forcing weavers out of the sector  Benefits of government schemes are not reaching the actual weavers  Corrupt practices (especially in banks) and lack of capital has affected the business  Non-functioning insurance schemes  SHGs and clusters have become defunct

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Post-cocoon activities in Gaya cluster

The Gaya cluster which comprised of Gaya, Nawada and Nalanda districts has about 400 weavers in pockets of Nepura, Kadirganj and Manpur. However, the sector is in severe decline and has largely moved out of reeled tasar yarn and into Ghicha, banana silk, etc. which are primarily being used.

Akelesh Kumar has been a traditional tasar weaver at Nepura village (Nalanda district); he won the State Handloom prize in 2009-10 for exquisite floral design pattern. Since the reelable cocoons have become very expensive, the weavers are only able to procure flimsy and pierced cocoons now of Daba from different parts of Jharkhand, namely Kathikund in Dumka district, Godda district as well as Piska near Ranchi. Raily from Chhattisgarh is also used, but for the last six months, there has been no supply. Barora from Odisha is also used.

The flimsy cocoons are purchased at 62 paise per piece and the pierced cocoons at Rs 1.40 per piece. Barora from Odisha is obtained at Rs 2.10 per cocoon. There are 60 weavers (Tanti community) in the village and about 10 kahans (12,800 cocoons) are consumed every month.

The cocoons are boiled, sun dried and stored in sacks for reeling. There are 200 reelers in the village who carry out traditional thigh reeling after cooking the cocoons with soda. In a typical day, a reeler can process 100 g to 150 g; from every kahan of flimsy cocoons, 500 g (0.39 g per cocoon) and for pierced cocoons 825 g (0.64 g per cocoon) are spun into Ghicha yarn. All the yarn is used for fabric conversion, while the waste and peduncles are sold to traders in Bhagalpur at Rs 70/kg and Rs 250/kg, respectively. The reelers and spinners get wages of Rs 400 per kg of yarn completed in 10 to 12 days. The Ghicha yarn is valued at Rs 2,200 to Rs 2,400 per kg.

Table 4.10 shows the economics of reeling a kg spun yarn:

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Pierced and flimsy cocoons 1,511 pcs 1 1,511 Soda 1,511 pcs 0.03 45 Cow dung cakes 1,511 pcs 0.07 106 Spinner’s wages 1 kg 400 400 Total cost 2,062 Ghicha yarn 1 kg 2,300 2,300 Silk waste (jhuri) 0.2 kg 70 14 Gross income 2,314 Net income 252

Since cocoons are not adequately available, about 600 kg of yarn is purchased from Bhagalpur. The weavers use traditional pit handloom and make 4 m of fabric in a day. They use Chinese 37 denier yarns, mercerised cotton and Katia in the warp and tasar reeled, Ghicha and Katia in the weft. The weavers get Rs 400 per piece of Chinese 37 denier x Ghicha sari which takes two days to make and engages at least two persons. The products are than (yardage) and saris; different quality yardage are produced such as mercerised cotton x Ghicha (MG) than of 36 inches (0.91 m) sold at Rs 180/m and tasar x Chinese x Ghicha (TG) than of 45 inches (1.14 m) sold at Rs 280 to Rs 400/m.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The special sari from the area is the Bawan Booti (52 flowers) with the flowers in the aanchal which is made with extra wefts without using jacquard. The art was lost and revived by Akelesh and his fellow weavers a decade back when a company from Delhi placed orders for the sari. The sari takes 12 days to make and costs up to Rs 8,000. The main markets are Bhagalpur, Delhi and Mumbai as well as local sales in Gaya.

A yarn market study in 2008 (Rajashekhar et al) puts the number of weavers at 85 to 100, as compared to 60 now; the report also mentions a consumption of 8.5 MT of tasar yarn annually, as compared to 600 kg of reeled and 600 kg of spun yarn now.

Among the benefits received through government schemes, the weavers mentioned that of the Rs 20,000 sanctioned for loom, only Rs 12,000 has been received; similarly, for other loans, less than 50% has been obtained even though they pay interest on the entire amount. The health insurance scheme has been non-functional for the last two years. The returns are low as a result of which many weavers are moving away from this traditional occupation. With the Rs 25,000 that Akelesh received as his prize money, he initiated an enterprise called ‘Akelesh Hath Kargha Udyog’.

Plate 4.11 - Reeled and Ghicha yarn drying at Nepura (Nalanda district)

Plate 4.12 - Charkha for reeling bobbin and warping drum at Nepura (Nalanda district)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.13 - Weaving patterns (without jacquard) with extra weft – a Bawan Booti sari by Akelesh Kumar

Plate 4.14 - Patterns on graph sheets and pattern developed using extra weft technique

Plate 4.15 - State award winner, Akelesh Kumar at Nepura (Nalanda district)

Gopal is a traditional tasar weaver in Manpur locality of Gaya; currently only 10 to 12 households (Paan community) are engaged with tasar weaving here, as compared to 30 about five years ago. For the last five years, reeling has completely stopped due to the high price of cocoons. Currently, the weavers have purchased 50 kg of yarn from Jharcraft in Ranchi at Rs 2,500/kg.

Pierced Raily cocoons are processed by about 10 to 15 spinners for Ghicha production. The cocoons are boiled with soda and reeled using the traditional thigh reeling technique. Each kahan of cocoons produces 2.5 kg to 2.75 kg of Ghicha yarn (2 g/cocoon); the reelers are able to process 200 g per day and earn a wage of Rs 50 each. Pierced cocoons of Daba yield about 1.1 kg to 1.2 kg of Ghicha yarn with 50 g of silk waste. The peduncles and waste are sold to traders at Bhagya (Jharkhand) at Rs 100 per kg. Thigh reeling sometimes leads to redness of the skin due to use of the soda, but the redness heals in a few days.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The weavers are able to make 7 m to 8 m of plain fabric in a day with a wage rate of Rs 40/m for mercerised cotton and Rs 50 per meter for Chinese 37 denier yarn. Ghicha is used in the weft, while mercerised cotton (at Rs 455/kg), Chinese 37 denier yarn (at Rs 4,000/kg) are used in warp. The main products are TG than sold at Rs 300 per meter locally as well as in Sasaram. Dyeing is usually done based on orders at Bhagalpur.

A 2008 yarn market study (Rajashekhar et al) puts the number of weaver households at about 25 to 30, as compared to 10 to 12 now; it also mentions a tasar yarn consumption of 2.5 MT annually, as compared to 300 kg each of reeled and spun yarn.

There is an SHG in the locality and most weavers have received Rs 12,000 assistance for the handloom; apart from this, some work sheds have also been constructed.

Health insurance services were being provided two years back; no health check-up has taken place. The weavers have also participated at fairs in Delhi, Gaya and Patna organised by Infrastructure Leasing & Financials Limited (IL&FS).

The main issues of concern were:

 Cocoons are not easily available and are too expensive  Fabric marketing has limited opportunities

Balmiki Prasad of Kadirgunj (Nawada district) has been a traditional tasar weaver. The cocoons are primarily purchased from traders in Chaibasa (West Singbhum district), Daltonganj (Palamau district) and Petarbar (Bokaro district) of Jharkhand. While different eco-races like Daba, Raily, Bugui, Borora, Arela, etc. are generally purchased, in recent times Raily has become too expensive and Bugui is not available. Daba cocoons are purchased at Rs 4,000/kahan (Rs 3.12/piece) from Chaibasa (Paschimi Singhbhum, Jharkhand) and Borora and Muga from Chaibasa and Petarbar (Jharkhand) for Rs 6,500/kahan (Rs 5.08/piece). Arela is obtained from Medininagar (Daltonganj) in Palamau district, Jharkhand, at Rs 4,200/kahan (Rs 3.28/piece). About 350 kahans (4.48 lakh) cocoons are consumed annually in the area. Daba is less preferred due to its lack of uniformity.

The cocoons are steam-boiled and sundried after which they are stored in sacks; about 5% to 10% is lost to rats. The cocoons are cooked with soda and reeled using the traditional thigh reeling; even though five or six MRTM machines had been provided earlier, they are not preferred due to the high twist and lack of lustre on these machines. There are 250 reelers in the area who can process 100 g to 125 g of yarn in a day. Light mustard oil is used to ease the flow. Table 4.11 below shows the quantity of yarn extracted from different eco-races:

Eco-race Yarn converted Grams per cocoon Price per piece per kahan (Rs) Daba 1.3 kg 1.01 3.12 Borora 1.8 kg 1.40 5.08 Arela 1.4 kg 1.09 3.28 Muga 2 kg 1.56 5.08

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The reelers receive a wage rate of Rs 600 for every kg which can be prepared in about eight days. About 200 g of waste (pheti) is generated after reeling – this is sold to traders in Bhagalpur who make Katia yarn out of it using drop spindle. Phariona Ghicha is also spun, used in weft and valued at Rs 1,500/kg. The peduncles are also sold to Bhagalpur traders at prices ranging from Rs 90 to Rs 325 per kg. The yarns are valued at Rs 4,000 per kg, but are not sold and are utilised for local production. There is no dyeing of tasar yarns in the area. After being washed, the yarns can be easily stored up to two years without any damages.

Table 4.12 below shows the economics of reeling a kg of tasar yarn:

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Cocoons 800 pcs 3.83 3,064 Soda 800 pcs 0.03 24 Cow dung cakes 800 pcs 0.15 120 Reeler’s wages 1 kg 600 600 Total cost 3,808 Reeled yarn 1 kg 4,000 4,000 Reel waste (pheti) 0.2 kg 200 40 Peduncles 0.187 kg 207 39 Gross income 4,079 Net income 271

The reelers also double up as spinners and use ampatia phuki (pierced cocoons) from Chaibasa (Jharkhand) for production of Ghicha yarn. The cocoons are procured at Rs 1.40 per piece (Rs 1,800/kahan) and reeled into Ghicha; about 200 g to 250 g of yarn can be processed in a day at a wage rate of Rs 400/kg. About 900 g of Ghicha yarn is extracted from a kahan of cocoons (0.7 g/piece) which sells for Rs 2,700/kg. Apart from this, waste (guddar) of 100 g is generated which is sold to traders in Bhagalpur at Rs 50/kg to make Katia yarn. No yarn is however sold; rather, Ghicha yarn from Bhagya (Jharkhand) is additionally purchased to some extent. Reeling sometimes causes redness of the skin, which heals upon the application of antiseptic cream.

Table 4.13 below shows the economics of producing a kg of Ghicha yarn. From the table, it is evident that the margins in yarn production are low and highly dependent on the price of cocoons, thus, all the yarn is converted into fabric.

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Pierced cocoons 1,428 pcs 1.40 2,008 Soda 1,428 pcs 0.03 43 Cow dung cakes 1,428 pcs 0.15 214 Spinner’s wages 1 kg 400 400 Total cost 2,665 Ghicha yarn 1 kg 2,700 2,700 Reel waste (guddar) 0.11 kg 50 6 Peduncles 0.33 kg 207 68 Gross income 2,774 Net income 109

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

There are 200 handloom weavers who use traditional pit loom for weaving. In the warp, primarily banana (kela) silk priced at Rs 420/kg is used; sometimes Chinese 37 denier yarn (Rs 3,600 to Rs 3,900 per kg) is also used. Reeled tasar is not used due to poor quality and high denier. In the weft, reeled tasar, Ghicha, Phariona Ghicha (made from reel waste) and Katia are used. A weaver can process 5 m to 6 m of plain cloth in a day with a wage rate of Rs 30 to Rs 35/m for plain yardage but requiring two persons to be engaged for bobbin spinning; else 10 meters can also be completed in a day.

The main products are than (20 to 30 m in length and 48 inches or 1.21 m in breadth) which sells for Rs 375/running meter (Chinese 37 x tasar) and Rs 200 per running meter (banana silk x tasar). In Chinese x tasar cloth, 17 g of Chinese (Rs 64) and 47 g of tasar (Rs 188) are required, while for banana silk x tasar, 55 g of banana silk (Rs 23) and 30 g (Rs 120) of tasar silk is required, thus, the latter is preferred for its better margin.

A 2008 yarn market study (Rajashekhar et al) puts the number of weavers in the area at 200 to 250 and a tasar consumption of 8.5 MT annually, as compared to less than 1 MT now.

There are two weavers’ cooperative societies (WCS) in the area, but they are not very active. A weaver’s work shed was constructed under the SGSY project in 2009, at a cost of Rs 43.47 lakh. About a decade ago, seven weavers received handlooms while six years ago, loom accessories and charkha were given to 50 weavers. The health insurance scheme has not been operational since two years. The list of weavers has been procured from Udyog Department for application of loans, work sheds and awards, but so far there has been no outcome.

Plate 4.16- Borora and Arela cocoons along with thigh reeled yarn Plate 4.17 - Katia spun from reel waste

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.18 - Banana silk and reeled tasar Plate 4.19 - Winding tasar for bobbin

Plate 4.20 - Weaving banana silk x tasar at Kadirganj (Nawada district)

Plate 4.21 - Weavers’ work shed at Kadirganj (Nawada district)

The issues of concern reported by the weavers were:

 Low returns and margins  Business not picking up  Lack of interest among the younger generation who are taking up other vocations  Weavers are forced to look for alternative livelihoods – many have opened grocery shops and snack stalls

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In Bihar Sharif (Nalanda district), Gupta Weavers’ Cooperative Society has been carrying out tasar weaving since 1990s. The cocoons are procured from Jharkhand, West Bengal and Chhattisgarh; much of the reeling and weaving work are carried out by weavers in Nepura and Kadirganj (Gaya district) as well as in Bhagalpur and in Bhagya (Jharkhand). In Bihar Sharif, there are six weavers using both pit and frame handlooms for weaving. They use Chinese 37 denier yarn for warp and Ghicha, reeled tasar and mulberry in the weft. On a typical day, a weaver produces 4 m of cloth, earning Rs 50 to Rs 100/m, depending on the design etc; this engages two persons since the 4 m requires 10 spindles of yarn which is prepared mostly by the weaver’s wife on a traditional charkha.

Plate 4.22- Cocoons stored for weaving Plate 4.23 - Frame loom obtained from DoH

Plate 4.24 - Weaving tasar on pit loom Plate 4.25- Tasar fabrics

The main products are than, sari, suits and dress materials that generally sell for Rs 500 per meter. Dyeing, if required, is done locally by a simple tub technique. Most of the sales occur through numerous exhibitions and fairs across the country as well as in Bhagalpur, Patna and other metros, apart from some local sale.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Fig 4.2 - Product flow diagram post-cocoon

Table 4.14 below summarises the details of the weaving clusters: Cluster Reelers and Weavers Reelable cocoons Reeled yarn Spun yarn Yardage spinners consumed consumed consumed lakh MT MT m Bhagalpur 400 270 13.9 0.7 0.6 20,000 (EcoTasar, Dumrama, Katoria) Gaya (Nepura, Manpur, 400 500 6.4 2 1.4 55,000 Kadirganj and Bihar Sharif)

4.4 Institutions

Apart from a few partially active weavers’ cooperative societies (WCS) and SHGs of spinners (who are also members of Banvasi Tasar Kitpalak Cooperative Society in Lilavaran, Banka district), there are no community institutions in the post-cocoon sector. The government institutions of Weavers’ Service Centre (WCS) and Demonstration Cum Technical Services Centre (DCTSC) have been discussed earlier.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.5 Schemes and programmes for post-cocoon sector

Under the Catalytic Development Programme (12th Plan 2012-17), the following programmes are included for post-cocoon (yarn conversion) sector under Vanya Silks (Table 4.15 below):

Components Unit Cost Central Targets (Rs) allocation (Rs) Reeling-cum-twisting machines 45,000 to 47,000 9.71 crores 3,000 machines Wet reeling machines (two basins, six 46,000 to 48,800 36 lakh 100 machines ends) 2 in 1 reeling-cum-twisting machine: 64,000 to 67,000 50 lakh 100 machines wet reeling and twisting can be carried out in the same machine as independent activities. Tasar cocoon sorting machine 51,000 to 53,000 3 lakh 10 machines Motorised/pedal operated spinning 7,000 2.13 crore 4,500 machines machines Solar operated spinning machines 19,000 14 lakh 100 machines Master reeler and technician services 2,88,000 86 lakh 50 master reelers 10 master technicians Yarn dyeing Tub dyeing 25 kg: 3.92 lakh 2.85 crore 35 tub dyeing units Tub dyeing 50 kg: 6.37 lakh 10 arm dyeing units Arm dyeing 50 kg: 17.12 lakh Vanya Silk marketing promotion As per project 1 crore As per project Reeling-weaving shed and machinery 50% premium paid 80 lakh Lump sum insurance 50 to 100 beneficiaries Health insurance 1,000 +service tax premium 2 crore 24,000 for a family of five beneficiaries Developing community based 1.771 lakh per group 10.62 crore 1,000 SHGs organisation for post-cocoon activities

The State Government has initiated the Mukhya Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP) under which 135 reelers and spinner SHGs will be mobilised, along with seven CFCs towards a target production of 172 MT of reeled yarn and 70 MT of spun yarn (discussed on page 51).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5. Value Chain Analysis

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5.1 Tasar value chain analysis

The tasar yarn produced passes through two basic operations, namely pre-cocoon related to the production of cocoons from the eggs which hatch into silkworm and consume the leaves of host plants like Asan or Arjuna to form commercial cocoons; post-cocoon where the cocoon then becomes the basic raw material for production of reeled and spun yarn that feeds into weaving for the production of fabrics.

The sub-sector study was an attempt to reveal the cost analysis of each activity related to production, inbound and outbound logistics, marketing, sales and service.

The analysis given below (Fig 5.1) shows the consolidated information on pre-cocoon activities for production of a kg of reeled yarn.

Fig 5.1 - Pre-cocoon value chain

About 1,000 Daba BV cocoon pieces are required to produce one kg of reeled yarn.

Thus, 4 (8 g) of basic DFLs when reared yields 160 BV-1 seed cocoons at 87% hatching, which when processed in the grainage, yields 38 (76 g) commercial DFLs. These when further reared, yields 1,000 cocoons (80%) of which reelable cocoons are produced at 87% hatching. Apart from this, it also yields 266 unreelable cocoons, 144 pierced cocoons and 324 g of peduncles which are all processed into spun yarn as by-products.

It is clear that 60% of the proceeds of pre-cocoon activities are retained by the tasar cocoon producers, which is one of the advantages in this sector where most of the margins are retained at the trading level. In terms of inputs, about 14% is primarily for seed cocoon and DFLs; many of the other inputs are subsidised in the seed sector and are of minimal cost in commercial rearing, thus, the share of inputs is low; commercial rearing takes the major share of the margin.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 5.1 below shows the price spread analysis of the pre-cocoon activity:

Item Quantity Rate Amount Item Quantity Rate Amount (Rs/unit) (Rs) (Rs/unit) (Rs) BV-1 Seed rearer BV-2 Commercial rearer Basic DFLs 4 BV-1 DFLs 12/DFL 48 Commercial DFLs 38 BV-2 DFLs 10/DFL 380 (8 g) (76 g) Consumables 3.7/DFL 14.80 Consumables 1.85/DFL 70.30 Total cost 62.80 Total cost 450.30 Seed cocoons 144 BV-1 2/pc 288 Reelable cocoons 1000 BV-2 3.18/pc 3180 cocoons cocoons Non-seed 16 nos 0.39/pc 6.24 Unreelable cocoons 250 nos 0.57/pc 142.50 cocoons Gross income 294.24 Gross income 3,322.50 Margin 231.44 Margin 2872.20 Commercial grainage Cocoon trader Seed cocoons 144 BV-1 2/pc 288 Reelable cocoon 1,000 nos 3.18/pc 3,180 cocoons purchase Grainage 32 Flimsy cocoon 266 nos 0.56/pc 149 expenses purchase Total cost 320 Pierced cocoon 144 nos 0.59/pc 85 purchase Production 38 BV-2 DFLs 10/DFL 380 Carriage, assembly 1,410 pcs 0.20/pc 282 (76 g) and commission By product 144 pierced 0.59/pc 85 Total cost 3,699 cocoons Gross income 465 Sale of reelable 1,000 nos 4.27/pc 4270 cocoons Margin 145 Sale of flimsy 266 nos 1.01/pc 269 cocoons Sale of pierced 144 nos 1.50/pc 216 cocoons Gross income 4,755 Margin 1,056

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Fig 5.2 below shows the value chain for post-cocoon activities (till yarn conversion) of processing the reeled cocoons obtained for a kg of reeled yarn and by-products:

Input sourcing Yarn processing, 83% etc.

11% Assembling, marketing, etc. 6%

Tasar Cooking, Reelers Spinners Katia 95% etc. 85% 11% spinners 5% 4%

Fig 5.2 - Post-cocoon value chain

The 1,000 cocoons obtained are reeled into 1 kg yarn by reelers, generating 200 g of reel waste (pheti). The 410 unreelable cocoons are spun into 202 g of Ghicha yarn and 54 g of spun waste (guddar); the 254 g of reel and spun waste and 324 g of peduncles are further processed into 433 g of Bhand Katia along with 87 g of final waste.

About 83% of the value created is taken up by inputs (primarily for the cocoons), thus, increase in prices without a commensurate increase in yarn prices will hit the sub-sector. The yarn convertors get a meagre 11% share of the value chain, while the entrepreneurs-weavers take 6%. Income for reelers and spinners who are from the weaver’s household is compensated to some extent by weaving activities, etc., but for independent reelers and spinners, the returns are less than the minimum wages of the state. Entrepreneurs make margins from volume and spot payments as well as conversion and value addition to fabrics.

Table 5.2 below shows the price spread analysis of the yarn conversion:

Components Quantity and rates Amount (Rs) Reeling Reelable cocoons 1,000 nos at Rs 4.27/piece 4,270 Cooking costs 1,000 nos at Re 0.18/pc 180 Reeler’s wages For 1 kg thigh reeled yarn 600 Total cost 5,050 Sale of 1 kg reeled yarn at Rs 5,200/kg 5,200 Sale of silk waste (pheti) 0.2 kg at Rs 300/kg 60 Sale of peduncles (danti) 0.23 kg at Rs 207/kg 48 Total income 5,308 Margin 258 Spinning Unreelable cocoons 266 nos at Rs 0.62/piece 381 144 nos at Rs 1.50/piece Cooking costs 410 nos at Re 0.09/piece 37 Spinners charges 0.202 kg spun yarn at Rs 400/kg 81

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Total cost 499 Sale of Ghicha yarn 0.202 kg at Rs 2,400/kg 485 Sale of waste (guddar) 0.054 kg at Rs 53/kg 3 Sale of peduncles (danti) 0.094 kg at Rs 207/kg 19 Total income 507 Margin 8 Waste spinning Silk waste + peduncles 254 g waste+324 g peduncles at 217 Rs 375/kg Cooking costs 0.578 kg at Rs 20/kg 12 Spinner’s wages 0.578 kg at Rs 45/kg 26 Total cost 255 Sale of Bhand Katia 0.433 kg at Rs 700/kg 303 Sale of Katia waste 0.087 kg at Rs 100/kg 9 Total income 312 Margin 57 Gross expenses 5,804 Gross income 6,127 Net margin 323

Combining the two sections of the value chain, the analysis of the margins of different actors is shown in Table 5.3 below:

Trade point Production/acquisition Selling price Margin % share of % net margin Actor cost (Rs/kg) (Rs/kg) (Rs/kg) final price of total margin Yarn 5,804 6,127 323 100 6 Weavers- entrepreneurs Reelers and -- -- 707 -- 13 Reelers and spinners spinners Cocoon trader 3,699 4,755 1,056 78 19 Cocoon traders Commercial 465 3,322 2,933 54 54 Commercial cocoons rearers Grainage 389 465 145 7 3 Graineurs Seed cocoons 49 294 245 5 4 Seed rearers

It is clear that commercial rearers have the highest share at 54% of the net margin in the tasar value chain; the return on investments is also higher. They are followed by cocoon traders at 19%. Fig 5.3 below shows the enhancement of the value from a basic DFL as it passes through different pre-cocoon and post-cocoon stages for Daba BV:

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Daba BV cocoon production

21,899 reelable cocoons 828 commercial DFLs 100 basic DFLs 3,132 BV-1 cocoons Rs 68,325 Rs 8,280 Rs 1,200 Rs 6,264

783 non-seed 3,132 pierced 5,475 unreelable cocoons cocoons cocoons Rs 305 Rs 1,848 Rs 3,121

Value generated: Rs 881/DFL

Yarn conversion

21.9 kg reeled yarn 4.6 kg Ghicha Rs 1,38,880 Rs 11,040

9,390 21,899 reelable unreelable cocoons 4.4 kg pheti Cocoons Rs 1,320 1.22 kg guddar Rs 2,300

5.04 kg danti Rs 1,043 2.16 kg danti Rs 2,300 9.6 kg Bhand Katia Rs 6,720

1.44 kg Katia waste Rs 144 Value generated: Rs 1,637/DFL

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 5.4 below details employment generated by the production of 100 kg of reeled tasar yarn and its by-products:

Node Materials No. Person Per actor Earnings/HH/actor days Seed rearers 400 (800 g) DFLs ~ 3 375 125 65 Grainage 16,000 cocoons ~ 1 75 75 193 Commercial rearers 3,800 (7.6 kg) DFLs ~ 22 6,600 300 44 Reelers 1,00,000 cocoons ~ 4 1,000 250 60 Spinners 41,000 ~ 1 124 124 65 unreelable cocoons Katia spinners 58 kg waste ~ 1 116 116 22

As the table shows, the production of 100 kg of reeled yarn generates 8,290 person days of employment (3,150 person days as per minimum wage of Rs 197 per day for unskilled work), with 85% of the share commanded by cocoon production and the remaining by yarn conversion. Apart from this, it also generates 8.7 kg of Katia waste which is sold by traders generating additional livelihoods.

5.2 Sub-sector constraint analysis

The constraints and opportunities expressed by various actors of the tasar value chain as well as key informants are categorised as:

 Input supply

 Technology/production process

 Management/organisation

 Market access

 Infrastructure and environment

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The following matrix in Table 5.5 shows an illustrative view of the constraints for the sub-sector:

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers Input supply Lack of host trees More rearers, less Sparsely located Rearers Protect existing forest Tasar Vikas for rearing trees trees, with large cover Samitis (TVS) inter-tree distance Graineurs and Declining forest Stop diversion of cooperatives cover Grazing pressure forests for non- on plantations forestry purposes Department of Drought and Sericulture climate change Poor maintenance Develop quality (DoS) - Central of plantations plantations, gap filing Silk Board Limited funds for (CSB) plantation Limited availability Improve maintenance maintenance of private lands for of existing plantations NGOs plantations Prevent grazing Panchayati Raj Conflicts with through community Institutions, Forest Department participation district administration Develop soil and water conservation measures Forest on plantations Department

Establish dialogue with Forest Forest Department Protection Committees (FPCs)/Villages Forest Committees (VFCs) Scarcity of cocoons Variable cocoon High price of Reelers Strengthen RMBs Reelers production cocoons Fluctuating prices of Spinners Increase RMB outreach Spinners cocoons Limited outreach of Lack of quality Raw Material Bank cocoons Weavers Initiate yarn banks Weavers (RMB) Corruption in WCS Make cocoons RMB Absence of yarn available at subsidised bank rates in case of high DoS-CSB prices Weavers’ Service Centre (WSC) not Cocoon procurement functional to be based on shell weight

Initiate reelers and spinners’ groups

Strengthen and revive WCS

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers Technology and production process Increasing attack by Declining forest Limited use of nets Rearers Protecting forests and TVS and birds and predators diversity and food adopting proper cooperatives (especially Breaking of Graineurs silvicultural methods nocturnal Poor silvicultural branches, for pruning and DoS-CSB predators) practices defoliation and pollarding, using clearance of quality instruments NGOs Theft of matured Climate change undergrowth larva and cocoons Communicate, Rearers Inclination by Pollarding and discuss and explain Conflicts with the private graineurs to cutting of big trees the rearing process to Graineurs Forest Department make quick money in forests FPCs/VFCs and Forest Department. CSPs Monitoring of Lack of Poor quality tools private graineurs understanding and Make rearing kits FPCs/VFCs for quality DFL communication Low involvement (raincoat, boot, with Forest officials of community in plastic sheet, torch, Forest Higher risk of seed monitoring etc.) available Department crop rearing Climatic conditions grainages prevailing during Maintain strict quality PRIs Non-availability of seed crop rearing control rearing kit Encourage and enhance community monitoring of private graineurs

Tasar yarn High cost of Chinese yarns are Reelers Make cocoons Reelers production is cocoons available in large available at subsidised complicated and quantities, are Spinners rates Spinners time consuming Tasar yarn more convenient production involves to use and have Weavers Develop suitable Weavers Yarn quality is not several steps as comparable prices reeling machines at par with the compared to the based on the needs of RMB standard in Chinese fewer steps in Tasar yarn the weavers, involving yarns and other Chinese yarn production has less complications DoS-CSB alternatives production poor wages and ease of use. Demonstration Yarn production has Tasar yarn Artificial Incentivise tasar yarn Cum Technical become unviable production is alternatives are production Services Centre cumbersome and available at far (DCTSC) time consuming, cheaper rates Capacity building on thus, yielding low machine operations returns Develop efficient Reeling machines warping machines for producing yarns are weavers not suitable for quality fabric Policies and production safeguards to monitor authenticity of tasar yarns

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers Management and organisation Fledging No new Stealing of Rearers Nurture and develop TVS and community recruitments cocoons strong community cooperatives institutions Graineurs institutions Aging staff Grazing and DoS-CSB Limited number of cutting of trees DoS & CSB Capacity building young, motivated Limited allowance staff programmes to NGOs staff in the DoS and for local Limited availability strengthen CSB institutions conveyance of private lands for institutions Rearers plantation Limited capacity Limited capacity Initiate recruitment Graineurs building of DoS building of TVS Limited drives staff monitoring of field Community Health insurance activities Provide local Service Limitations in scheme closed conveyance based on Providers conveyance for down Lack of quality realistic assessments (CSPs) monitoring and standards in outreach for DoS grainage Community Insurance officials operations monitoring of companies grainages Lack of insurance facilities Revive health insurance facility No functional Unfair practices Limited working Reelers Revive and Reelers community capital to purchase strengthen WCS institutions Traditional power cocoons Spinner Spinners structures Initiate SHGs for WCS largely not Limited cash-credit Weavers reelers and spinners Weavers functional Political assistance interference Increase outreach of DoS-CSB Limited government schemes recognition for Textile talent or Incentivise tasar Department workmanship products to attract younger people WCS and SHGs Younger generation not ready to take up this vocation

Traditional weavers shifting to other yarns or vocations

Poor outreach of government programmes

Widespread corruption

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers Market access Fluctuating cocoon Open market for No minimum Rearers Minimum selling price TVS prices commercial support price for (MSP) on cocoons cocoons cocoons Graineurs DoS-CSB Unable to store Ensure shell weight as cocoons Unfair sorting by Poor bargaining RMB staff the criteria to fix the NGOs traders power of rearers price and proper Limited role of RMB counting Rearers Lack of RMB units not Lack of value infrastructure to empowered to Providing cocoon price Graineurs additions store cocoons take decisions information to rearers based on need or CSPs Limited outreach confidence Establishing strong and outlay for RMB community institutions Traders

Very limited post- Build cocoon storage RMB cocoon integration infrastructure at cluster level TVS and cooperatives Strengthen state RMBs

Facilitate post-cocoon integration in potential areas Declining demand Availability of Consumer Reelers Monitoring on Reelers due to high price of artificial silk awareness on tasar authenticity of silk and tasar and alternatives at very products is low Spinner handloom Spinners availability of low prices cheaper alternatives No community Weavers Strengthen and revive Weavers Lack of bargaining institutions WCS Poor margins in power DoS-CSB tasar yarn Problems of knots, Develop machines for production High price of pilling, unevenness quality yarn production Textile cocoons and high and breakage in and warping Department Limited capacity of number of steps tasar yarn, making weavers for fabric make tasar it inconvenient to Increase outreach and WCS marketing production less work with effectiveness of cocoon remunerative banks DCTSC Lack of value Fluctuating additions and Very limited production and Initiate yarn banks RMB designs facilities and price of tasar awareness on Develop specialised market trends and units for making ready- linkages to-use tasar warps and weft reels

Increase consumer awareness on tasar products

Initiate Participatory Guarantee System (PGS) in natural handmade silk

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers Infrastructure and environment Protection of Lack of resources Grazing and poor Rearers Quality protection of TVS and plantations for fencing maintenance of established plantations cooperatives plantations Graineurs Lack of cocoon Industrialisation, Develop cocoon storage DoS-CSB storage facilities urbanisation and Government infrastructure diversion of forest programme on NGOs Deforestation and land tasar not Increase outreach of climate change performing in most RMB Rearers Poor outreach of districts except in Very limited DoS and Banka Protect forests and stop Graineurs performance and programmes diversion of forest lands outreach of Government policy for industrial projects Forest government favours private Department agencies in most industries to rural Strengthen people’s districts with livelihoods institutions PRIs, potential for tasar Legislators as a livelihood Increase outreach and activities on tasar in other potential tasar districts Unavailability of Limited innovations Machine reeled Reelers Develop innovative Reelers reeling machines in developing yarn not suitable reeling machines that that can produce machines for weaving Spinners can produce quality Spinners high quality yarn yarns as per the need of suitable for weaving Limited options for Lack of dyeing Weavers the weavers Weavers dyeing or other facilities and Limited value value added knowhow Integrate reeling, DoS-CSB addition facilities products spinning, waste Lack of ideas on utilisation, dyeing, Textile market trends designing, weaving, Department printing, calendaring Limited waste and embroidery under a DCTSC utilisation single facility

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5.3 SWOT analysis

The analysis of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (SWOT) helps in developing interventions. It gives an idea of the internal strengths and weaknesses along with the external opportunities and threats that can influence the sub-sector. Certain factors would be within the reach of the interventions while others would not. The idea is to build upon the strengths and nurture them to reduce the weaknesses. Opportunities would include technology, changing business trends, competition, regulations, etc. These could accelerate the sub-sector or hold it back. Lost opportunities could become significant threats while threats could also turn into opportunities through clever management. Factors beyond control can only be addressed over time through repeated advocacy and networking towards positive change.

Table 5.6 below presents the SWOT analysis:

SWOT analysis of tasar sub-sector in Bihar Strengths Weaknesses  Declining forests and lack of host plants, besides  Traditional tasar habitat and weaving clusters inaccessibility in Left Wing Extremism (LWE)  Large number of traditional and experienced affected pockets rearers, processors; livelihoods and employment  Limited extension services  Self-sufficiency in high quality DFLs  Limited community-led organisation in potential  Strong community institution districts  Mature post-cocoon sector  Non-starter as a livelihood activity in most districts  Generally good returns on rearing  Dependency on Chinese yarns  Exports and foreign exchange earnings  Lack of reeling machines to produce quality yarns  Uniqueness and niche value  Inadequate supply of cocoons, yarns to meet the  Helps rejuvenate forests, carbon sequestration demand

 Lack of quality cocoons and yarns

 Substitutes and fakes  Policies, inter-departmental coordination  Climate change  Limited outreach of benefit schemes Opportunities Threats  Initiation of new focussed project e.g. Mukhya  Climate change, outbreak of diseases Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP), Mahila  Mining and industrialisation Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)  Complementary and substitute products  Possibilities of creating community-based  Migration of weavers, change of vocations enterprises led by women  Limited interest of the youth  Presence of sensitive resource institutions and  Changes in existing government policies or new experienced NGOs ones that favour Chinese yarns (through customs  Enormous possibilities in value addition, especially duty) and give impetus to tasar-lookalike synthetic in the post-cocoon sector fibres and spinning mills, and policies on forest  Huge opportunities for production of tasar reeled yarn that can substitute Chinese yarn rights, mining and land acquisition will impact tasar  Environmentally sound green products  Carbon sequestration  Large number of beneficiary schemes for weavers  Convergence through MGNREGA, Forest Department and CSR funds in establishing plantation in view of availability of large tracts of private and forest wastelands and infrastructure  Demonstration and adoption of best practices and new technologies

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

6. Conclusion and Recommendations

This tasar value chain study in principal tasar clusters of Bihar presents the current scenario of the sub-sector in the region. With tasar rearing being a traditional supplementary livelihood of the local community, as well as the presence of one of the best-developed traditional weaving clusters offers a unique opportunity towards enhancing the sub-sector and reducing vulnerabilities. The presence of seasoned, experienced and dedicated government departments as well as capable NGOs offers unique advantages. Tasar products are natural, high value niche products which have a good demand in national and export markets.

In the last decade, continuous handholding, technological demystification and instilling of high quality standards by PRADAN, in coordination with Central Silk Board (CSB), has demonstrated true potential of the activity and the income levels possible by utilising local resources and traditional skill. The initiation of the Banvasi cooperative and its achievements in bringing about the highest standards of DFL production ISO certification are unparalleled in the country. The cooperative has amply demonstrated that with dedication and a focused strategy, community institutions can achieve highly skilled and technical tasks that had been considered the domain of scientists so far. In comparison with other tasar producing states, Bihar has brought about one of the most critical breakthroughs by achieving self-sufficiency in high quality DFLs which will continue to ensure success and higher returns in the pre-cocoon sector. Even though tasar interventions in Banka district have shown great success, it is almost a non-starter in other potential districts of Nawada, Munger and Jamui. Even in Banka, the outreach of the state sericulture establishment is limited and continues to lag behind in aspects of DFL quality and adoption of rearing practices. The Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centre (BSM&TC) in Bhagalpur has severe limitations in carrying out basic seed production in a highly unsuitable location for tasar. The initiation of Mukhya Mantri Tasar Vikas Pariyojana (MMTVP) by Government of Bihar has been a right step towards bringing in a much-needed infrastructural upgradation as well as community mobilisation.

There is a pressing need to set up more plantations, gap filing in natural forests, protection and maintenance of existing plantations to accommodate interested rearers and extending the production base. Deforestation and diversion of forest land for non-forestry purposes, accompanied by climate change, are some of the biggest threats to the sector. The other pertinent issue is on the pricing of commercial cocoons and the open market; the price fluctuations result in frequent boom and bust for the rearers. Apart from this, high price of cocoons looms darkly over the post-cocoon sector.

In spite of the huge production of Daba cocoons in Banka district, many of the weaving clusters continue to prefer Raily and other wild eco-races, discouraged by the high price and poor quality of the cocoons. The entire post-cocoon sector is shying away from tasar due to high prices and lack of technological solutions to process the yarns in a more efficient and convenient manner. The motorised reeling & twisting machines (MRTM) machines are completely unsuitable to meet the demands of the weavers and have no takers among them. The availability of high quality Chinese yarns along with cheaper fibres like banana silk for warp and mercerised cotton, mulberry and eri yarns for weft in high volumes, with their additional benefit of ease of use, has made working with tasar yarns highly unattractive and unviable. Even though the tasar look and feel, its durability and the ability to settle well into the fabric is lauded, the above mentioned factors are forcing weavers to look for alternatives for survival.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The poor returns and wages of reelers, spinners and weavers have led to the swift switch by the younger generation to alternative livelihoods like tailoring or migration to cities for a complete change of vocation; this is further aggravated by the complete disinterest among the youth to take up post-cocoon activities. The current weavers are mostly of the older generation who continue with the activity despite failing health and eyesight because they have limited options.

Unless quality cocoons are made available throughout the year and better reeling-spinning and warping machines are developed, the sector will continue to decline and remain highly marginal. Reeling machines like Maldah Type-2 developed by Silk Conditioning and Testing House in Maldah (West Bengal) need to be tested and demonstrated in Bihar’s weaving clusters. There is practically no community institution functioning in the post-cocoon sector, resulting in a lack of bargaining power, confidence and learning as well as accessibility to government programmes. Defunct and corruption-riddled institutions and services is more norm than exception. The MMTVP has set ambitious targets which need to be initiated as per set objectives.

Lifting of cocoons from rearers through Tasar Vikas Samitis (TVS) at declared minimum selling price (MSP), storage through temporary structures in villages and further sale to state and regional Raw Material Banks (RMBs) would help streamline cocoon availability. Yarn bank initiation can also ease the availability of yarn without getting into the problems of reeling; apart from this, ready-to-use tasar warps and weft reels will increase the convenience and production efficiency for weavers. The utilisation of tasar waste to produce high quality yarns, as achieved by Starling Silk Ltd. (Maldah, West Bengal), shows the enormous potential of all by-products of tasar.

Based on the lessons and learning from the study, some recommendations suggested are presented in Table 6.1 below:

Pre-cocoon Post-cocoon  Protection of existing forest cover  Building and increasing outreach of raw materials  Increased host plant plantations in both private bank, yarn bank and forest wastelands and gap filing  Machines for reeling and spinning based on  Nurturing and empowering community-led weaver needs and market organisations  Training, capacity building and exposure to new  Increased engagement and outreach of technologies and best practices Department of Sericulture (DoS) and agencies like  Incentivise tasar yarn production Jeevika  Develop hub-and-spoke model for loom-ready  Production of quality DFL in Pilot Project Centres tasar (PPCs)  Utilise wastes to increase remuneration of reelers  Recruitment of staff in DoS and other allied  Value addition and development of range of departments designs  Minimum selling price (MSP) on commercial  Vegetable dyeing and blending cocoon  Mobilising community institutions especially SHGs  Cocoon procurement based on shell weight  Participatory Guarantee System (PGS) for  Creation and improvement of infrastructure for genuinely organic handmade silk cocoon stifling and storage  Supportive policies and incentives for enterprises  Supportive policies towards habitat conservation  Increased outreach and service delivery of welfare  Convergence and collaboration with existing schemes programmes of Mahatma Gandhi National Rural  Skill upgradation and motivation for youth Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA), Forest  Demonstration of emerging new technology in Department, etc. post-cocoon activities

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

References

 A Handbook of Textiles, Ann M Collier, 1974  Annual Report, Central Silk Board, 2013-14  Bengal District Gazetteers - Bhagalpur, J Byrne, 1911  Bengal District Gazetteers - Gaya, L S S O’ Malley, 1907  Bihar-Orissa District Gazetteers - Patna, L S S O’ Malley, 1924  Detailed Project Report for Large Scale Tasar Sericulture Based Livelihoods in Bihar under MKSP - 2013  Dictionary of Economic Products of India Vol-6 Part III, Sir George Watt-1893  Economics of Tasar Silk, Suresh Rai, Assistant Director, Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, Ranchi  Lessons in Tropical Tasar, Ed -Dr K Thangavelu, Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, 2000  Manual of CDP Projects 12th Five Year Plan - Vanya Sector  Monograph of Silk Fabric in Bengal, N G Mukherji,1903  Non-Mulberry Silks, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin - 29, 1979  Note on the performance of Indian Silk Industry, Central Silk Board, 2014  Reviving a Rural Industry: Silk Producers & Officers of India & Bangladesh 1880s to 1980s, W V Schendel, 1995  Silk in India, J Geoghegan, 1872  Silk Reeling & Testing Manual, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin - 136, 1999  Strands of Life - PRADAN Handbook, 2005  Study Report - Tasar Silk Yarn, Assessing Market Potential, Nanda et al, Symbiotec Research Associates, 2008  Tasar Cocoon Handbook, PRADAN, 2006  The Wild Silks of India, principally Tusser, Thomas Wardle, 1881  Tropical Wild Silk Cocoons of India, Mohanty, 2003  Wild Silk Technology, Kavane & Sathe, 2011

In addition, a number of websites of the Central Silk Board and other relevant web-based information were also consulted.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Acknowledgements

I would sincerely like to thank the contribution of various sub-sector actors, particularly the rearers, grainage owners, reelers, spinners, weavers, dyers, Tasar Vikas Samitis, self-help group (SHG) members, entrepreneurs and traders who took time out to share their experiences and views with me.

I am very thankful to Smt. Rekha Srivastav, Joint Director of Department of Handlooms & Sericulture, Government of Bihar, and her offices for providing basic statistics on tasar production. I am also thankful to Sri. Chandan Ghosh, Pilot Project Officer, Inaravaran (Banka district) for accompanying me during field visits and providing information and statistics regarding implementation of MMTVP in the block.

I am thankful to Dr. A K Singh from Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centre, Bhagalpur for providing all information on seed sector. I am also thankful to Sri. Hira Lal, Deputy Director of Weaver’s Service Centre, Bhagalpur for providing information on the different programmes of the centre and the general outlook of the sector. I am also grateful to Sri. Arun Dutta of Demonstration-cum-Technical Service Centre (DCTSC), Bhagalpur for providing insights into the post-cocoon sector as well as statistics on weaving in Bhagalpur. I am thankful to Sri. Anup Mohan Sahay of Raw Material Bank sub-depot in Bhagalpur, for information on the centre’s operations and its achievements.

I am greatly indebted to Sri. Sheshnath and the EcoTasar team for assisting me during my visit to Bhagalpur and accompanying me to different locations in the city as well as providing valuable insights on the sector and the activities of EcoTasar. I am also thankful to Sri. Manoj of EcoTasar, Saraiyahaat (Dumka, Jharkhand) for accompanying me to the spinners’ villages in Banka district and for information on yarn processing in the area. I am also indebted to tasar entrepreneur, Sri. Wahid for providing information on tasar activities in the state and challenges of the sector.

I am grateful to Sri. Ajay of the PRADAN-Banka team for facilitating my visits to tasar rearing areas in the district, as well as to Sri. Sunil Hembrom, Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Banvasi Tasar Kitpalak Cooperative Society Lilavaran, for providing information on the working of the cooperative and challenges ahead.

Many thanks to Sri. Babu Ali of Dumrama, Sri. Shah Alam of Katoria, Sri. Akelesh Kumar of Nepura, Sri. Gopal of Manpur, Sri. Balmiki Prasad of Kadirganj and Sri. Gupta of Bihar Sharif for facilitating my interactions in the weaving clusters as well as providing information on the post-cocoon sector.

Finally, I am grateful to Dr. K Sathyanarayana, Scientist D & MKSP Project Coordinator, Central Silk Board Bangalore (CSB), and Sri. Shamshad Alam, Integrator - Tasar Theme, Tasar Development Foundation (TDF), Deoghar, for giving me this opportunity and guidance and all-round support in conducting the study.

The views expressed in the report are that of the stakeholders and do not reflect that of the author or organisations engaged in the study or programme.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

List of respondents

Respondent/s Location Smt. Rekha Srivastav Joint Director, Sericulture, Department of Sericulture, Patna Sri. Chandan Ghosh PPO Inaravaran, Banka district Dr. A K Singh Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centre, Bhagalpur Sri. Hira Lal Deputy Director, Weavers’ Service Centre, Bhagalpur Sri. Arun Dutta Demonstration cum Technical Service Centre , Bhagalpur Sri. Anup Mohan Sahay Raw Material Bank, Bhagalpur Sri. Sheshnath EcoTasar, Bhagalpur Sri. Manoj EcoTasar, Saraiyahaat Sri. Wahid Tasar Entrepreneur-Bhagalpur Sri. Ajay Kumar PRADAN-Banka Sri. Sunil Hembrom Chief Executive Officer, Banvasi cooperative Tasar rearers Modikura Tasar rearers Bhorsar Tasar rearers Suggitarn Tasar rearers Arpathar Tasar rearers Jogmaran Tasar rearers Pipradih Tasar rearers Janakpur Spinners Chandankothi Sri. Babu Ali Dumrama Sri. Shah Alam Katoria Sri. Akelesh Kumar Nepura Sri. Gopal Manpur Sri. Balmiki Prasad Kadirganj Sri. Gupta Bihar Sharif

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Ministry of Rural Development (MoRD)

The Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, plays a pivotal role in the overall development strategy of the country. Its vision and mission focus on sustainable and inclusive growth of rural India through a multipronged strategy for eradication of poverty, by increasing livelihoods opportunities, providing social safety net and developing infrastructure for growth. This is expected to improve the quality of life in rural India and correct the developmental imbalances, aiming, in the process, to reach out to the most disadvantaged sections of society.

Central Silk Board (CSB)

The Central Silk Board (CSB) is a Government of India organisation under the administrative control of the Ministry of Textiles. The mandated activities of CSB are research and development, research extension, maintenance of four-tier silkworm seed production network, leadership role in commercial silkworm seed production processes, promotion of Indian silk in domestic and international markets and advising the Union Government on all matters concerning sericulture and the silk industry. These activities are carried out by 325 units of CSB in different states. The CSB has also been implementing the centrally-sponsored scheme, Catalytic Development Programme aimed at the synergy and dissemination of technologies and innovations developed by its R&D units and incentivising investments among stakeholders to enhance production, productivity and quality of silk.

Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN)

PRADAN is a public service organisation working in the endemically poor and backward regions of Central India, with collectives of rural women to help them to achieve an enhanced sense of dignity and well-being through sustainable livelihoods. PRADAN works towards large scale alleviation in human condition through multiple stakeholder collaborations. PRADAN’s efforts impact over 3.5 million people directly in 45 districts of Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal and Rajasthan. Revitalising tasar sericulture is one of PRADAN’s livelihood initiatives whose success has transformed the lives of more than 10,000 poor tribal families in these states. The Central Silk Board and PRADAN are currently working to scale up the tasar sericulture programme in partnership with the MoRD.

This publication has been made possible with financial support from Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, under the Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) tasar project in Bihar.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

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Tasar Value Chain Analysis – Bihar Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

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