GV Camino Santiago Ing.Qxd 18/1/08 09:36 Página 33
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GV camino santiago ing.qxd 18/1/08 09:36 Página 33 The Inland Road he pilgrims coming from Europe who, starting from the Bidasoa estuary in Irun, Tdirected their first steps on the peninsula towards inland Gipuzkoa, undoubtedly knew that they were setting out on an itinerary which, besides its importance as regards the road to Santiago de Compostela, had been one of the most important com- munication arteries in the north of the peninsula from as early as Roman times. Perhaps it was not the fastest way, but it was safe and busy, well cared for and, except for the odd important geographical feature, relatively comfortable, even in the harshest of climates. Today, the “Inland Road” through Gipuzkoa and Alava is perhaps the best mirror of the Basque Country, an itinerary of contrasts uncovering a heterogeneous and enormously varied country in scarcely six days. Coastal landscapes, lush forests, fertile vegetable gardens, dry lands, interminable plains, highly-industrialised areas, rural landscapes, Basque-speaking areas, regions where the Basque language disappeared centuries ago... Enormous geographical, historical, socio-economic and cultural diversity in an area of barely 200 kilometres. The remains of an old Roman road and traces of ancestral shepherd trails are witness to the fact that this route was of capital importance, well before Christianity started honouring the Apostle and making pilgrimages to Santiago. In the 13th century, when Gipuzkoa became a part of Castile, Alfonso X, a Castilian king known as “the Wise”, who mixed his wisdom with a strong dose of practicality, founded fortified towns all the way along the road.This meant that this important commercial route could be kept in good condition, thereby leading to its important growth. But not even the most ambi- tious maintenance plans could prevent the pilgrims from having to suffer the climb up to the tunnel of San Adrián, a short but winding stretch forming the last trial before rea- ching the more welcoming paths of the Alavese plain. Testimonies written by some of the travellers left not a shadow of doubt. Maybe Manier exaggerated on considering in his 1730 “Voyage a St. Jacques de Compostelle” that San Adrián was “one of the highest mountains in the world”, but the passage gouged out of the rock definitely left an impression on most travellers. In spite of having lost its protagonism some two centuries ago, this route is still an interesting green and golden trail, like the valleys of Gipuzkoa and the plains of Alava, which constitute a common axis where diversity, far from dividing, enriches the traveller. 33 GV camino santiago ing.qxd 18/1/08 09:36 Página 34 STAGE 1 IRUN HERNANI (26,2 km) IRUN OIARTZUN Parish Church of Our Lady of La Asunción, dating from the th The first written reference The municipal area preserves 13 century and later restored. about Irun is in the Carta Paleolithic remains in caves, It has a Latin Cross plan and is Puebla granted to Hondarribia funeral monuments dating covered by groin vaults. by King Alphonse VIII of Castile from the Metal Age. The Murgia Palace is attached in 1203. The Arditurri Mines, from the to the parish. This is an old The Hermitage of Santa Elena beginning of our age, are a sign tower, razed in 1512 and later “Ama Xantalen”, has been a of the Roman presence. This rebuilt. During the Carlist cult place for twenty centuries, mining point promoted the iron Wars, it was used as barracks hiding archaeological remains and steel activity fro the Middle and hospital. in its inside. Located near the Ages. The Hermitage of Santiagomendi is located on Iturriotz Tower old town, we should stand out a A crossroads, it was accounta- (Oiartzun) 1st century Roman temple and ble to Errenteria until, at least, the summit of a small hillock. the remains of a Roman cre- the 15th century. The Oiartzun It is thought the building was mation necropolis under the Valley ironworkers got to have medieval, due to the features of hermitage. The only 10th cen- their own legal system through the alabaster craving of St tury church in Gipuzkoa, the the Fuero de las Ferrerías James that was found in it. current hermitage, dating pro- granted by King Alphonse XI in Restored in 1950, the only thing bably from the 14th century, 1328. preserved was the altarpiece. presents a rectangular plan Parish Church of San Esteban, With a great tradition, it has and Isabelline façade. The insi- in Gothic style, built in the 16th been considered an essential de has been restored and century and with a 17th century part of the Jacobean routes Hermitage of transformed into a museum, altarpiece. crossing Gipuzkoa’s territory. Santiagomendi (Astigarraga) where we can enjoy part of the The Town Hall is located in the The ford crossed by the royal archaeological remains found centre of the Elizalde Square; Road was replaced by the there. and, very close to it, the Ergobia Bridge, located in the Parish Church of Our Lady of Hermitage of San Juan, dating quarter with the same name, th El Juncal, started in the 16th from the 16th century. It houses in the 18 century. It was the century and finished in 1606. It a 17th century altarpiece and a first stone bridge over the includes styles from the late Christ in Gothic style. Urumea River. Gothic period and features of The Iturriotz Quarter stands the ‘Basque Gothic’ style. It has out due to the tower –equally a Baroque façade dating from named-, a rectangular building the 17th century and houses an of solid construction. The altarpiece with the image of Ergoien Quarter hides the the Virgin of El Juncal, a Pagoaga Tower. Romanesque carving dating from the second half of the 12th ASTIGARRAGA century, probably the oldest in Gipuzkoa. Located next to the Royal Road Moreover, it has other notable that led from Irun to Castilla. buildings, such as the Town The origins go back to the Iron Hall, opened in 1763, the Age, showing a great example Arbelaitz Palace, the Urdanibia in the Txoritokieta Menhir, Palace or the Hermitage of San located near the fort with the Marcial same name. Church of Our Lady of El Juncal (Irun) 34 GV camino santiago ing.qxd 18/1/08 09:36 Página 35 600 500 400 Santiagomendi 300 Torre Alta 200 Gurutze Tensión Frantzesillagaberri 100 Puente de Santiago Oiartzun Astigarraga Sorozarreta 0 Irun Hernani Mountain bikers From Irun to Oiartzun, the route is feasible. If you prefer asphalt, you should take the GI-2134. From Oiartzun to Ventas de Astigarraga, it is better to take the GI-2132 and link to the pedestrian track at the Frantzesillaga Farmhouse in order to go up towards Santiagomendi through a cement track and go down towards Astigarraga by road. The Arditurri Mines (Oiartzun), in the heart of Aiako Harria, were exploited for more than 2,000 years. (km 0) Santiago Bridge (km 0) We start from the Santiago Bridge over the Bidasoa River. At the Trade Exhibition Centre, we Hendaia take the Real Union promenade, leading us to Santiago Street. From here, we go towards the Hondarribia Behobia Church of Our Lady of El Juncal. Finally, we get to the Plaza San Juan Harria, located opposi- Puente de Santiago te the Town Hall. We can get there from Behobia too. [1,5 km] San Martzial Santiagotxo Enlace (km 1,5) Irun Camino de la costa Irun We continue through the Paseo Colón, from which the link connecting Hondarribia with the N Coastal Road starts. This stage crosses Irun up to the Landetxa-Ventas Quarter. Just before Olaberria getting to the pilgrim’s refuge, we go up Beliz Street and cross the bridge over the highway. Then, we take a detour going down to the right. Once we pass the Altzubide farmhouses, we Altzubide go ahead by an irrigation channel up to the following junction, from which we will wade [7,1 km] Camino de la costa across the irrigation channel left side. We continue up to a farmhouse and take a track leading Elatzeta to the GI-3451 up to the following junction. Through a cement track, we climb up to a height, 195 a crossroads of four paths, to continue ahead until getting to the GI-2134, at the Gurutze G I- Quarter. 34 51 Camino del interior (km 8,6) Gurutze (Oiartzun) Ferrocarril 4 3 1 I-2 Jaizkibel G We continue towards Oiartzun. 100 metres from here, we take a right detour that goes down 525 -8 and crosses a mall brook. Then, we go up towards a cement track. After steep way down, we [2,2 km] A Gurutze GI-3631 get to Elizalde, Oiartzun’s main area. 8 3 I-26 G Urkabe Ergoien (km 10,8) Elizalde (Oiartzun) GI-3420 234 Through the Donibane Street, we get to the square, and through the Manuel Lekuona Street, Oiartzun Oiartzun Elizalde we go own to the Iturriotz Quarter. After going through the main street, we take a path to the -1 Altzibar right. Once at a height, a downwards detour will lead us to a brook. We go up through a path N to a farmhouse and, after taking a left detour, we get to a hillock. Descending besides an apple orchard, we cross a pine grove and, leaving behind the Sorozarreta Farmhouse, we Lezo Iturriotz follow our signs up to beginning a steep slope. 100 metres from the farmhouse of the [7,1 km] Oiartzabal Farmhouse, we take the way to the left to get into a pine grove and, later, an oak G I-2 wood.