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Citation: Tan, Tina. “Why Are Chinese Not Buying Chinese Brands? The Notion of Chinese Nationalism in the Discourse on Chinese Consumerism.” Asia Pacifi c Perspectives, Vol. 13, no. 2, pp. 102-116. Abstract: Since the 2008 fi nancial crisis, Chinese consumers have become the most lucrative and desirable market for the luxury and fashion industries. Such consumers are the result of ’s nationalist agenda to reform its economy in the 1980s. Ironically, as the Chinese upper and middle classes continue to grow, their buying power continues to be an obstacle for the growth of Chinese domes- tic luxury brands. Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ Chinese Consumerism The NotionofChineseNationalismintheDiscourseon Why Are ChineseNotBuyingBrands? the WorldTradeOrganization(WTO)in2001. share intoChinaandallowed Chinatoprepareitstradepoliciesjoin reform alsopermi nist countryintoonewithmorecapitalistcharacteristics.Thiseconomic China’s OpenDoorpolicyintheearly1980s,transformingCommu- Evolution ofChineseConsumerism to beanobstacleforthegrowthofChinesedomesticluxurybrands. upper andmiddleclassescontinuetogrow,theirbuyingpower continues tion thatall“madeinChina”productsareofpoorquality. As theChinese China hasalegacyofproducingpoorlymadegoods,creatingthepercep- potential development oftheseconceptswithinChina.Furthermore, thus appropriatingtheconceptof“Chineseelements”andlimiting luxury brandshave includedvarious Chinesemotifsintheirproducts, Western idealsandconceptsofluxuryfashion.Inaddition, Western such Chinesedomesticbrandsisthatconsumershave adopted gling toa Western luxurygoods,Chinesedomesticbrandsare stillstrug- economy inthe1980s.DespitegrowthofChinesebuyingpower for Such consumersaretheresultofChina’snationalistagendatoreformits most lucrative anddesirablemarketfortheluxuryfashionindustries. “hurdles” thatChinahad toovercome tocreateChineseconsumers,as foreign companies,Chinaquicklybecamethe world’slargestexporter. economy. Moreover, throughforeigninvestments andjointventures with Chinese businessesasthefoundationofitstransformation toamarket industries were stillstate-owned,Chinabegantoallowprivatization of Gerth’s book ment begantoconstruct consumerismwithinitsownpopulace.In Karl rely onexternalforcesforthestabilityofits economy; hence,thegovern- However, theChinesegovernment realizedthat itcouldnotcompletely Contemporary Chineseconsumerculturedeveloped asaresult of Since the2008 ract moredomesticconsumers.Oneofthechallengesfacing As ChinaGoes,SoDoes theWorld, fi ed foreigncompaniestoexpand theirglobalmarket nancial crisis,Chineseconsumershave becomethe by Tina Tan, Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan Graduate Student,MA in Asia Paci Asia PacificPerspectives 3 1 theauthorexamines Although manyChinese ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16

fi c Studies,USF • 102 2

Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ that Chineseconsumersareessentialtooverall retailsales. law againstgift-givingtogovernment o in Chineseluxurygoodsconsumptionduetotheenactmentofa luxury goods. Hermes BirkinpursesandLouisVui goods thatonecanacquirewithenough Chinese consumers. fashion housesandluxurybrandscontinuetheire socially toconsumeluxurygoods.” “bail[ing] out”theluxurymarketin2009,whichwas a“year ofshame the signi crisis, themarketforluxurygoodssu world’s luxuryconsumption. Chinese consumershave becomeresponsibleforalargepartofthe under theMaoistregime(1949-1976).However, withinjustfourdecades, Chinese consumerismpriortotheeconomicreformwas nonexistent of theglobalconsumptionluxurygoods. in 2000,whereasChineseconsumersarenowresponsibleforonethird consumers onlyaccountedfor1%ofglobalpersonalluxurygoodssales rapidly in their preferences for luxury. According to a Bain report, Chinese Chinese consumerisminthe1980s,consumershave evolved to theQingDynasty(1644-1911): Western imperialism throughconsumptionofWestern goodsdatingback ism constituteaninseparableentitythatwas shaped throughthefearof consumerism. GertharguesthatChinesenationalism andconsumer- nationalism isstillunmistakablyembedded in thediscourseonChinese constantly associatedwiththeideaofquality, thenotionofChinese Consumerism withaNationalist Agenda creation ofChineseconsumerism. industries hasdiverged fromthenationalistagendathatsparked the values. Inthisregard,Chineseconsumerismintheluxuryandfashion concepts ofluxuryareheavilyin consumers aremoreinclinedtopurchaseWestern luxury goods, their strates thegrowingeconomicwealth ofChina.However, asChinese of expressingthemselves, andconsumptionofsuchgoodsalso demon- In thispaper,theterm“luxurygoods”referstopremiumsetof As mostWestern countriessu Despite Chineseconsumers’desiresforWestern goods,whichare implicit inthegrowingforeign dominanceofthecommercialeconomy. read worksonWestern political economy,fearedthelossofsovereignty exempli Politicians worriedabouttradede fi cance ofChineseconsumersfortheircontributionstowards fi ed byopiumdensandaddicts.Intellectuals, whohadbegunto 7 Chineseconsumersusethesecategoriesofgoodsasmeans Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan fl ff uenced byWestern aestheticsand Asia PacificPerspectives ered duringthe2007-08 4 fi cits andthenewconsumerlifestyles Sincethebeginningofcontemporary on travel trunksareconsidered ff ered aswell. BrookeUngernotes ffi cials, expertscontinuetobelieve fi nancial means.Forexample, 5 Despitetherecentdecrease ff orts toa ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 6 fi Thus,global nancial ract more 8 • 103

Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ symbol ofeliminatingsuchbackwardness. saved thesilkindustry. to advocatefortheusageofsilkaspatriotic,astrategythatsuccessfully the silkindustryformedNationalProductsPreservation Association responded tothegovernment agenda, asChineseconsumershave become encouraged Chineseconsumers tospend.Chinesepeoplehave clearly becoming aneconomic superpower, and tothatend,thegovernment market. However, theChinesegovernment ofthe1980senvisioned China were conscious oftheriskallowingforeignbrandstoenterChinese Open DoorPolicyinthe1980s,heandother Chinesegovernment o with thenationalistagenda.Hence,whenDeng Xiaopingestablishedthe contributes tothenationaleconomy,Chinese consumerismisaligned the vein of“nationalistic visuality.” As consumerism inChinaactually complete, andconsumerismwas reintroduced in apositive lightandin the nationalizationofprivate enterprisesbythe Chinesegovernment was foreign anddomesticacrosssociallife. on trainingtheeye toidentifyvisualcluesanddistinguishbetween the movement was thenotionof“nationalisticvisuality,”which“centered thus defendChinafromimperialism.Oneofthekeycomponentsthis aged theChinesepeopletopurchasenationalproductsand lishment oftheNationalProductMovement inthe1930s,whichencour- of theRepublicChinain1912.Inparticular,fearledtoestab- consumption ofWestern commoditiescarriedover totheestablishment government begantoencourageChinesemencuto alist Chinesegovernment decidedtoshed“China’sbackwardness.” The China, andthepopularityofsuitsbegantotakeo of wool.Thistransformationbecamethebasisdemandforwoolin change duetotheintroductionof“Western” suitsandtheintroduction discourse ofnationalizingtheappearanceChinesemen. used acrossavariety ofspectrumsbutmostdistinctlycenteredonthe fi tic aspirationsofurbancoastalChina. Party usedanti-consumeristrhetorictodenouncethegreedandcapitalis- against theCommunistdoctrine.In1950s,Chinese consumerism iscloselytiedtoabourgeoislifestyle, itisfundamentally tion offoreigngoodsinChinabecameextremelylimited.Sinceexcessive has continuedtoexistthroughCommunistMaosuitsandbeyond. Although theCommunistParty tookcontrolofChinain1949,thisnotion the “longgown,”or provided themainmaterialtoproducetraditionalChinesea “Western a es unityofnationalismandconsumerisminmodernChinesehistory. This concernover thelossofsovereignty throughtheChinese With theimportof“Western” goods,Chinesemen’sfashionbeganto After theCommunistParty tookcontrolofChinain1949,consump- ire” were highenoughtoendangerthesilk industry, which changpao Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan 11 Thisnotionof“nationalisticvisuality”signi- ( 㛗⿅ Asia PacificPerspectives ). Inthefaceofthisthreat,members 12 9 This“nationalisticvisuality”was However, bytheendof1950s, 10 Thedemandsforwooland ff whenthenewNation- ff theirqueuesasa ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 ire of ffi cials • 104 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ buying power for luxuryitems,Western luxurycompanieshave recipro- consumerism. SinceChineseconsumershave proven theirenormous luxury goods,theideaofChinesenationalismcontinuestobelinkedwith third ofgloballuxurysales. will continuetostrengthenthisin have astrongin ization intheluxurysegmentdemonstratesthatWestern luxury brands $9.498 billioninmarketcapitalization.Thisdominanceofcapital- the list,loneChinesecompany,HeilanHomeCo.Ltd,comesinwith also makeupalmost50%ofmarketcapitalization. nie FinancièreRichemontSA,HermèsInternationalSociète,etc.),butthey Western companies(LMVHMoëtHennessyLouisVui The toptencompanieswiththelargestmarketcapitalizationarenotonly Poor’s apparel,accessories,andluxurygoodssegmenttobe $639.9 billion. Zackiewicz calculatesthetotalmarketcapitalizationofStandardand domestic luxurycommodities. Additionally, inaWWDarticle, Arthur buying Chinesegoods? visuality” outcome promptsthequestions:Howdoesnotionof“nationalistic strong preferencetowards Western goodsover Chinesebrands.This educated aboutforeignbrandsandgoods,theyhave developed a consumers. ContemporaryChineseconsumersaremoreexposedtoand domestic brandshave notgainedmuchsuccessina responsible forone-thirdofgloballuxurysales. contributes signi cated byincluding“Chineseelements”intheir luxuryproducts.Thisstrategy “modern.” as asignofwealth, sincesuchgoodsareperceived as“prestigious”and China’s Consumerism,ownershipofWestern commodities isinterpreted As Allison Hulmeexplainsinherbook,TheChangingLandscapeof that thereisaWestern in Why areChinesenotbuyinggoods? and thecorrectintercultural communicationbetween Chinaandtherest as adrive tostimulatecreativity,aswell astopromote thenationalspirit constitutes “Chineseelements,” Hulmearguesthatit“mustbeconceived of “Chineseelements.” Although thereisnoclearde notion of“nationalisticvisuality”hastransformed intothemodernnotion Western luxury goodswithintegrated“Chineseelements.” Arguably, the consumerism, Chineseconsumersarealsointerested inconsuming luxury goods. As Chinesenationalismisclosely linkedwithChinese As ChineseconsumersbecomemoreinterestedinbuyingWestern One potentialobstacletothegrowthofdomesticluxurymarketis Interestingly, despitethegrowthofChinesebuyingpower, Chinese fi 13 t intothemoderncontext,andwhyareChineseconsumersnot Thus,theyareperceived asnaturallysuperiortoChinese fl fi uence onthe globalluxurymarket.Chineseconsumers cantly totheChineseconsumer’s desireforWestern Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan fl uence onthecontemporaryconceptofluxury. Asia PacificPerspectives fl uence, asthey areresponsibleforone 14 At onlynumber14on racting domestic fi nition ofwhat on SA,Compag- ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 • 105 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ forms fromculturalicon tofashionaccessories,thusitisstripped from its the headpieceswithhisownuniqueinterpretation. Thisheadpiecetrans- from thoseoftraditionalPeking Opera,heappropriatedthedesignof in Western luxury goods. As Treacy‘sPeking Operaheadpiecedi fashion, italsosigni headpiece. Although theheadpiecealludedtohistoryofChinese whose frequentcustomersincludetheEnglish royal family,createdthe of Peking operasigners(see ded Rihanna’sfashion choices.Rihannastolethespotlightbywearing an cultural meanings. purses with“detailedDesignofgoldhorsemouthpiece.” collection tocelebratetheYear oftheHorse,whichincludedbrightlyred consumers. “Chinese elements”asaway oflocalizingtheirproductstoa breaking intonewmarkets,Western luxurybrandshave incorporated practice oflocalizationisapopularstrategyformanyinternationalbrands also incorporateChinese“spirit,values, andhabits.” famous landmarks,suchasthedragonorGreatWall ofChina,but should notjustconsistoftheinclusionChineseculturalsymbolsand of theworld.” tion (see in launchingtheirMetiersD’art “TheLegendofChineseZodiac”collec- Vacheron Constantin,hasutilizedthesigni their products.Forexample,theoldestSwissmechanicalwatch company, luxury brandshave proven quitereceptive toincludingChinesemotifson covered byaveil ofWestern interpretationofChinesecharacteristics. producing “Chineseelements,”thevery conceptof“Chinese elements”is motif ofahorse.Throughthee the Horse.Forthisspecialcollection,RollsRoyceincludedaChineseart Royce launcheditsMajesticHorseCollectionincelebrationoftheYear of cious, success,”andotherpositive notes. Another example ishowRolls Weibo account,Gucciexplainedthatthiscollectionrepresented “auspi- H&M, pairedwitha actress SarahJessicaParker, whichconsistedofacustomsilkgrownfrom perceptions ofChinesefashion.Onethepopulartopicswas theout code forthisevent evokeddebatesonChinesefashionaswell asWestern (MET Gala)was “China:ThroughtheLookingGlass,”anddress high-pro priation of“Chineseelements”continuesthroughfashionevents. Inone costs around€80,000to€100,000. depiction oftheannualzodiaconwatch dial,andeach timepiece Another populardebate stemmingfromthe2015METGalasurroun- Due tothegrowingnumberofChineseluxuryconsumers,Western In additiontoWestern luxurygoods,thediscourseonWestern appro- fi fi le example,thethemefor2015MetropolitanMuseumGala gure 1).Thetimepiecesfromthiscollectioneachincludea 15 Shefurtherarguesthatthenotionof“Chineseelements” fi ed thecurrentappropriationof“Chineseelements” fl ame headpiecethatresembledtheheaddecorations Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan fi gure 2).Famoushatmaker,PhilipTreacy, ff orts ofWestern luxurybrandsengagedin 17 Asia PacificPerspectives In2014,Guccilauncheda“China-red” fi cance of“Chineseelements” 16 However, asthe ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 18 Throughits ract Chinese ff ered fi • 106 t of Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ elements” negatively a such Western ideals.Unfortunately,Western appropriated“Chinese luxury, andthesechoicescontinuetobeapproved byaudiencesholding ers’ worksisstill extravagant goldgownbyChinesedesigner,GuoPei. Admi shoppers will likely continue to reselling luxurygoods.Thebusinessphenomenon ofoverseas personal upon price.Overseas personalshopperscanoftenmakeaheftypro countries thaninChina),resellingtheitems to theirclientsatanagreed and otherfees,itischeapertobuyWestern luxurygoods in Western shoppers willbuybrandnameitemsatadiscountedrate(duetotari platform, Taobao. Dependingonthearrangement,overseas personal social mediachannels,likeWeChat orWeibo, aswell astheecommerce in whichtheyarestudying.Theytypically countries, whofrequentlytravel between Chinaandthecountries students studyinginWestern countries,suchastheU.S.or European has ously have toface overseas personalshoppers,Chinese domestic luxurybrandscontinu- to thedomesticluxury brands.Furthermorewithboomingindustries, like increase inaccessibilityofWestern luxurygoodsserves majorchallenges nation ofhighdemand,poorperceptionChinese madegoods,and The businessofoverseas personalshoppers,or the newmarketsurroundingconsumptionofWestern luxurygoods. reliant onWestern commoditiesasapromiseofquality, evidencedby with higherqualitygoods.Over time,Chineseconsumersbecame too ing domesticbrandsover foreignbrands,whichhave beenassociated of poorquality.Thus,Chineseconsumersarenotreceptive to purchas- context, “MadeinChina”productscontinuedtostrugglewiththenotion economic growth,thusa Historically, Chinahasdependedonitscheaplaborforceforprimary also overcome theperceptionof“madeinChina”goodsaslowquality. appropriation of“Chineseelements.” luxury goodsmarketcontinuestoabidebyWestern ideasofluxuryand Chinese designers.Furthermore,thegrowthofdomestic market. However, theprocessbywhichconsumerschoose fashion designerswhowere previouslyunknownoutsideoftheChinese na’s selectionofGuoPei’s worksshoneaninternationallightonChinese are willingtopaymoreforamade-in-U.S.A. product. from theBostonConsultingGroupthat61percent ofChina’sconsumers US$12 billion,in2013. China. According toCNN,thissegmentgenerated74.4billionyuan,or The development oftheChinesedomesticluxurygoodsmarketmust Despite allofthechallenges facingChinesedomesticbrands,there fl ourished through thehighdemandforWestern luxurygoodsin fi xated onthecriteriaofWestern-identi fi erce competitiontoa 19 Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan ff Theoverseas personalshoppersareoftenChinese ect thedevelopment of“Chineseelements”by racting manyoutsourcedjobs.Inthemodern fl ourish, especially in light of a 2011 report Asia PacificPerspectives ract Chinese consumers. fi nd theirclientsthrough haiwai daigou 20 Hence,thecombi- fi ∙ ed Fall/Winter2015-16 these design- idealsof ( edly, Rihan- कڊ֋֔ fi t by ff s • 107 ), Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ of the“Chineseelements.” Week andthefactthat,onaverage, peopleinShanghaihave higher the fashioncapitalofChina,duetogovernmental supportforFashion China’s fashionindustrybytheKingdomofNetherlands,Shanghaiis Chinese coulddosomething,”re proud tosaythattheincentive forherjobis“toprove totheworldthat rate “Chineseelements”thatChinesereaders atlargecanrelateto.Sheis enough tojustbringWestern beautyandfashiontrendsintoChina. Companies &CultureIssue.” Business ofFashion, apparent in appears inChinesemedia,includingthemagazine tic fashionandluxurygoodsindustries,suchsupportive rhetoric also Nanjing, andChengdu. Aside fromgovernmental promotion ofdomes- fashion designersanddesignsincludeGuangzhou,Shenzhen,Dongguan, its “pillarindustry.”OtherChinesecitiesthatstronglypromotedomestic Northeastern coast,hasheavilysupportedthecreative industry becoming design withinthegarmentindustry. and GarmentFestival formorethantwenty years toencourageinnovative Northeastern coastalcity,hasalsoheldanannualInternationalFashion ing fashionevents andlocaldesigners.Thegovernment ofDalian,a domestic fashionbrands. government hashighhopesthatitspeoplewillinvest moneybackin consumer incomeandriseoftheChineseecommerce,Shanghainese disposable incomesthantherestofcountry.With extradisposable and supportedbytheministryofcommerce. FashionWeek ishostedbytheShanghaiMunicipalGovernment to backdomesticluxurygoodsprojectsandfashionevents. Forexample, China. MultipleChineseprovincialgovernments have startedinitiatives ers fromtheChinesegovernment andotherin are signsofsupportaswell aspromotionofChinesedomesticdesign- example, thecover oftheSeptember2011 issueof magazines, soshemade itapointtofeaturemoreChinesemodels. For that therewas alackofrepresentationChinesesupermodelsin Angelica Cheung,theeditor-in-chiefof interviews withsomeofthemostwell knownnamesinfashion, including els ofChina(see Wen, FeiSun,DuJuan,ShuPei, MingXi,andSuiHeas culture, youcannotchangethat.” jobtomeetwiththeChinese culture.Five thousandyears of time, it’s[her] her roleistoproduceamoderninternationalmagazine,“[b]utatthesame The Chinesereclamationof“Chineseelements”mayperhapsbemost Aside fromShanghai,manycitiesaroundChinahave startedpromot- In orderfor Vogue fi gure 3). publishedaspecialeditionmagazinecalled“The

China Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan . Inspringof2014,thepopularfashionwebsite, 26 25 Themodelsarealldressed inclothingfrom tobesuccessfulinChina,itmustincorpo- Inse 23 Within thisspecialissuewere numerous fl 24 Asia PacificPerspectives ecting thenationalismbehindnotion ing outtoprove thispoint,shesaw Cheunggoesontoexplainthatitisnot 22 ThecityofShandong,alsoonthe Vogue China. 21 According toareporton fl uential partieswithin Vogue China Vogue China Cheung explainsthat ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 the featuresLiu supermod- . • 108 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ of “SinaFemale,”or Chinese nationalism, with themissiontoreconnectlinkbetween Chineseconsumerismand through theirpictorialsandarticleswithinfashionmagazines. Additionally, editors areincreasinglyusinga“Chinese”interpretationofWestern trends the notionofspiritualitywithin“Chineseelements.” ism butinsteadcreatingherownsenseofbeauty andelegancethrough Liyuan isnotconformingtotheWestern style ofbeautyandcommercial- ladies ofmanyothercountries.Thereisanationalistic notionthatPeng re explaining whytheChinesepeopleadoretheir from American designer,JasonWu,and American brands,likeJ.Crew.In have seenwith American consumers tonewdomesticdesigners. cover exempli readers] want toseethatacertainlookwouldgoodonChinese.” people toseethat“aChinesecouldbecomebig–andultimately[our Western brands,andCheungbelieves thatitisimportantfortheChinese Labels,” theauthor,Wei Gu,writesabout howall Peng Liyuanasthe“big One popularonlinemediawebsite, who have notfollowed Western trendsorboughtintocommercialism. for luxurygoodscompanies,theChinesemediahasalsopraisedthose sion rateofaudiencemembersintoclientsisstillundetermined. in with theideasofChinesefashiondesignersandtogetknowdaily This showisanexcellentoutletforChineseaudiencestobecomefamiliar when designingtheircollectionsandwhatmakesdesignsspecial. show allowsthedesignerstotalkabouttheircreative thought processes a popularChineseactress,andareaskedtodisplaytheircreativity.The creations onnationaltelevision.Theyaregiven ataskby“goddess,” i.e. purposefully showcasesthenewbreedofChinesedesignersandtheir the onewithlowest bidwillbeeliminatedfromthecontest.Thisshow a groupofbuyers. Whichever designerreceives thehighestbidwins,and introduces various groupsofdesignersandhasthemcompeteinfront show “Goddess’sNewClothes,”or stirred upacrazeforChinese designergoodsamongChineseconsumers: “Chinese positive energy,”or Chinese is notuncommonfor over thefashionmarket.Inparticular, GuhighlightshowPeng Liyuan fl fl uences thedesigners hadincreatingtheirpieces.However, theconver- ects onhowPeng Liyuandoesnotwear brand-namea In the In contrast,asChineseconsumptionhassecuredthrivingrevenues Aside fromVogueChinaasaplatform,thereisalsonewtelevision fi rst ladywas praised forherelegance,con Wall Street Journal fi es theheightenedfocuson“Chineseelements,”asfashion Xin LangNüXing Vogue China fi rst ladiestobea Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan fi gure” or fi article“TheFirst-Lady E rst ladyMichelleObama,whowears products zhong shizhengnengliang canserve asaplatformto Asia PacificPerspectives Da RenWu( Sina Nü ShenDeXinYi ( ffi ѽԛعЈ liated withconsumerism,aswe , featuredFirstLadyofChina ኱ே≀  fi ). Inthisarticle,the rst lady,thearticlealso fi rst ladiesexertin ff ect onChina’sFashion fi dence, anddistinctive ( ዪ⚄ⓗ᪂⾰ in its107thissue ( ∙ ୰ᘧṇ⬟㔞 Fall/Winter2015-16 ire likethe ract Chinese

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Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ labels, whichmakesithardtodeterminethepricerangeoftheirout for Western luxurygoods.With thecombinationofWesternized idealsof brands, anditisevidentthatChineseconsumershave astrong preference Conclusion tion oflocalfashionevents. China’s economy,PresidentXi’scondemnationofcorruption,andpromo- “Chinese elements”inChineseconsumerism,especiallywiththeriseof markets. However, nowisanopportune momenttostrive toincorporate elements” serve asachallengeinthealreadyWesternized consumer the worldwillfollow. recognize thepotentialofChinesedomestic designers beforetherestof fashion roadmap.However, theChinesepeoplethemselves willneedto Chinese fashionanddesignersofluxurygoods appearontheglobal within Chinesemainstreammedia.Thus,itis onlyma ment agendas,Chineseluxurydesignsarealso appearingmorefrequently As promotingfashionandluxurydesigners becomes partoflocalgovern- have thepotential tobecomeaglobalplayer intheluxurybrandsegment. Chinese-made goods.Despitealloftheseobstacles, China-madegoods consumers preferWestern aesthetics,theyalsoholdapoorperceptionof break intothedomesticmarket. At thesametime,notonlydoChinese designers isfacingtheobstacleofinnovating beyondtheseidealsto heavily in limited byvarious challenges.Inparticular,withtheluxurymarketso products, thegrowthofChinesedomesticluxurygoodsmarketis luxury andtheappropriationof“Chineseelements”inWestern luxury fashion brands. As theChinesepublichaspraised corruption, Chineseconsumersarebecomingmoreinterestedinlocal (see been disregardedbythenewChineseconsumersociety.” regain Chineseculture…,which,accordingtosomecommentators,had of “Chineseelements”was “designedbyChina’smarketcommunityto elements” inconsumergoods. According toMikeThompson,thepurpose alism inthediscourseofconsumerismandacalltocreate“Chinese Chinese brandfashionchoices,therehasbeenasparkofnation- Oftentimes, Ms.Peng appearsinatailoredout Chinese luxuryconsumptionisskewed towards Western luxury The timingofMs.Peng’s fashionstatementcouldn’tbe thrived there. consumption inChinaandtakentheshineo husband’s callforausterityhasdampedthemoodofconspicuous fi gure 4). Alongside theChinesegovernment’s actionstocombat fl uenced byWestern ideals,thisgenerationofChineseluxury 29 Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan Asia PacificPerspectives ff theluxurybrandsthathave fi ts withoutparticular fi er oftimebefore rst ladyforher ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 30 er. Her The“Chinese fi ts • 110 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ h Figures Figure 2. Figure 1. jessica-parkers-headdress-brought- p://www.watchuseek.com/vacheron-constantin-metiers-dart-year-of-the-monkey-le-watch/ Vacheron Constantin,“TheLegend OfChineseZodiac,”Year oftheMonkey.Source: SarahJessicaParker at2015METGala.Source: Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan fi re-2015-met-ball/ Asia PacificPerspectives h p://uinterview.com/news/sarah- ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 • 111 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ Figure 3. ming-xi-sui-inez-vinoodh/ fashiongonerogue.com/vogue-china-september-2011-cover-liu-wen-fei-fei-sun-du-juan-shu-pei- Du Juan,ShuPei, MingXi,andSuiHeasthesupermodelsofChina.Source: Cover oftheSeptember2011issue Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan Asia PacificPerspectives Vogue China featuresLiuWen, FeiSun, ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 h p://www. • 112 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ Buckingham-Palace.html visit-Peng-Liyuan-exudes-elegance-cool-white-dress-suit-accompanies-President-Xi-Jinping- Source: Figure 4. h p://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3280964/Is-Chinese-lady-real-star-state- Peng LiyuanatCeremonialWelcome atHorseGuardsParade inLondon2015. Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan Asia PacificPerspectives ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16 • 113 Downloaded from http://www.usfca.edu/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/ 4. 3. 2. 1. Notes 22. 21. 20. 19. 18. 17. 16. 15. 14. 13. 12. 11. 10. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5.

Ibid., p.10. Gerth (2003),p.3. McArdle, Megan.“Doyoustillwant thatBirkinBag?” Bloomberg, “WhatMotivates ChineseConsumerstoShop Abroad?” BloombergTV, Bain &Company. Unger, Brooke.“Exclusively forEverybody.” Gerth, Karl. Sims, David.“ChinaWidens LeadasWorld’sLargestManufacturer,”accessedMarch World TradeOrganization.“MemberInformation:ChinaandtheWTO,”accessed Consulate GeneraloftheNetherlands inShanghai.“China’sFashionIndustry: An Johnson-Woods, Toni,andVicki Karaminas. The BostonConsultingGroup.“Madein America, Again: WhyManufacturing Hunt, Katie,andSerenaDong.“ShoppersorSmugglers? ChinaCracksdownon Jing Daily.“SpringFestival Spotlight–Gucci’sChina-Exclusive Year oftheHorse Lau, Chester.“ReviewVacheron Constantin ChineseZodiacYear OfTheGoat(With Ibid. Hulme (2014),p.190. Zaczkiewicz, Arthur. “LVMH, RichemontTopListofBiggest FashionFirmsby Hulme, Alison. Gerth, Karl.“CompromsingwithConsumerisminSocialistChina:Transnational Ibid., p.71. Ibid., p.69. overview oftrends,opportunities,andchallenges.” Accessed onJanuary 31,2016 government&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=false quSGKQC&lpg=PT46&dq=shanghai%20fashion%20week%20municipal%20 Bristol: Intellect[u.a.],2012. documents/ Will ReturntotheU.S.” Accessed January31,2016from: asia/china-personal-shoppers/ ‘Daigou’ Boom.” spotlight-guccis-china-exclusive-year-of-the-horse-collection/#.VrDN2DYrKWZ Collection.” review-vacheron-constantin-chinese-zodiac-year-goat-specs-price/ Specs And Price).” forecasts-analysis/lvmh-richemont-fashion-apparel-ranking-10303382/ Market Cap.” aspx?p=1728075 Publishing, 2014,p.17. karlgerth.com/mm_uploads/gerth-past-y-present-2013.pdf Flows andInternalTension in‘Socialist Advertising’.” do-you-still-want-that-birkin-bag post, March03,2014. what-motivates-them-to-shop-abroad-0DcVRJtiT46O~b8woR7G_g.html November 26,2014,2:07. h industry-rests-paradoxbut-thriving-nonetheless-says-brooke# 2014. Everything. IMT/2013/03/14/china-widens-lead-as-worlds-largest-manufacturer 14, 2013,Thomasnet,ThomasPublishingCompany. March 20,2015. p://www.bain.com/Images/BAIN_REPORT_Global_Luxury_2015.pdf h p://www.economist.com/news/special-report/21635761-modern-luxury- NewYork; Godalming:HillandWang 2011. ;Melia[distributor], As ChinaGoes,soGoestheWorld:HowChineseConsumers Are Transforming fi Jing Daily le84471.pdf WWD.COM The ChangingLandscapeofChina’sConsumerism . h Luxury GoodsWorldwideMarketStudy CNN.com ps://www.wto.org/english/thewto_e/countries_e/china_e.htm Deployant.com h , January2,2014. Why Are ChineseNotBuying ChineseBrands?/ Tan h p://www.bloombergview.com/articles/2014-03-03/ h p://public.eblib.com/choice/publicfullrecord. , December30,2015. , August 19, 2014. p://www.bloomberg.com/video/chinese-consumers- h . ps://books.google.com/books?id=m0JH- , January15,2015. Asia PacificPerspectives h ps://jingdaily.com/spring-festival- The Economist, h Shanghai StreetStyle. p://www.cnn.com/2014/08/19/world/ h p://wwd.com/business-news/ h h p://www.deployant.com/ Bloomberg View , accessedJanuary31,2016, p://news.thomasnet.com/ Past andPresent h ps://www.bcg.com/ accessed December14, . Oxford:Chandos ∙ Fall/Winter2015-16

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