DECEMBER 2013

FEMME OF FAME

GONG LI BACK IN THE LIMELIGHT

MICROFILM MAGIC ALL THE RAGE FOR LUXURY BRANDS

CHINESE ARTISTS TAP INTO THE CONTEMPORARY MARKET CONTENTS 12 / 2013

34 23. EDITOR’S NOTE

26. INSIDE SCOOP

28. VISION IT’S COMPLICATED Vacheron Constantin’s CEO Juan-Carlos Torres insists that ‘there’s no place for arrogance’ in watchmaking

30. COVETED TICKS ALL THE BOXES An artistic jewellery clock to wow your guests in the festive season

32. SPEND IT DREAM KITCHEN An ergonomic, rotating cooking space with everything you will need to treat guests to a hearty meal

34. FRONT ROW SHORT AND SWEET Microfilms are now all the rage for luxury brands to get their message across

28 30

DECEMBER 2013 17 CONTENTS 12 / 2013 52

40. SECONDS STROKES OF GENIUS The Chinese contemporary market’s rise in a short period ‘is unbelievable’ and an ‘incredible story’

46. FASHION MIRROR MIRROR How much more do we see in a reflection? We discover the surprising details and sides of ourselves, hitherto unseen, as we gaze into the looking glass

52. MUSE ROLES OF FAME A true professional, Gong Li is back in the limelight as she collaborates with long-time friend Zhang Yimou on a new film

40 56. FASHION AIR OF MYSTERY We embrace the magic of the witching hour this party season, indulging in luxe, glamorous textures and moody, sultry hues

62. LUST-HAVE

46

62

DECEMBER 2013 19 CONTENTS 12 / 2013 68

68. DIVERSIONS GROWING HOME Fashion designer Laura Urbinati turns a warehouse and a ‘horrible’ flat into a perfect residence and headquarters 76 72. DIVERSIONS ADVENTURES FOR SAIL A new fleet of luxury yachts is providing travellers with access to what were once unreachable regions

76. HAUTE

82. SIGN-OFF

84. RESOURCES

72 82

DECEMBER 2013 21 FROM THE EDITOR We’re being greedy this month. effortlessly shrugs off rumours passengers are able to relax in We’re indulging in the best that about her suspected divorce. five-star comfort while journeying life has to offer, and we make no Starstruck? Us? to Indonesia’s Komodo Island or apologies for it. We’ve worked If mini-featurettes are more even exploring the last frontiers hard this year – most of us, your thing, no doubt you have from the Antarctic. anyway – and now we feel justified noticed the recent surge in On the other hand, those who in turning our thoughts away microfilms produced by luxury prefer to spend the festive season from l’ennui au quotidien brands. These short but sweet at home cooking for loved ones (dissatisfaction with everyday life) videos, the themes of which range will appreciate the Michelin-star- and towards the more important from flirtatious liaisons to worthy kitchen showcased in this things in life, such as island- impossibly cute panther cubs month’s Spend It. The stunning hopping on luxury yachts, frolicking in the snow, are culinary space features an meeting dazzling film stars, or designed to capture the innovative rotating mechanism building a HK$20 million audience’s imagination and for lazy – excuse us, busy – chefs, dream kitchen. convey a brand’s story in a more complete with an herb garden, You may have noticed that interesting, memorable way. We wall-to-wall fish tank, and wine Gong Li is on our cover. The look at this trend in our cover and cheese cellars. stunning film star, arguably one story, and we can’t argue that ’tis After all, what better time than of the few women in the world the season to fall in love with this to cook your own Christmas who can look glamorous wiping these funny, romantic and often pudding and eat it too? condensation off a mirror, graced heartwarming microfilms. us with her presence last month For those looking to leave at The Peninsula. the cold weather behind and Gong talks about her role as a explore warmer climes, a new woman suffering from amnesia in fleet of luxury yachts is offering a Zhang Yimou’s upcoming drama, wealth of new experiences to the The Return. She shares her jaded traveller. These yachts are thoughts on the trust between an able to reach previously actor and a filmmaker, and inaccessible regions, and its Jacqueline Tsang, Editor

DECEMBER 2013 23 EDITORIAL ADVERTISING DECEMBER 2013

CHIEF EDITOR SENIOR SALES MANAGER

SPECIALIST PUBLICATIONS LAVIN YU FEMME OF WINNIE CHUNG [email protected] FAME 2565 2448 EDITOR JACQUELINE TSANG SALES MANAGER KELVIN LAU ART DIRECTOR [email protected] LOCKY LAI GONG LI 2565 2462 BACK IN THE LIMELIGHT

MICROFILM MAGIC ALL THE RAGE DESIGNER FOR LUXURY BRANDS

CHINESE ARTISTS TAP INTO THE CHOW KWOK-WANG ACCOUNT MANAGER CONTEMPORARY MARKET TANIA LAI PRODUCTION EDITOR [email protected] DEEN NAWAZ 2565 2395 COVER

SUBEDITORS ACCOUNT MANAGER Award-winning actress Gong Li MEGAN MCCOID VIVIEN TSANG All jewellery by Piaget MIKE MCGRATH [email protected] HELEN MIAO CONTENTS PAGES 2565 2379 PAGE 46 WRITER SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE VIVIAN CHEN ANNA WONG PRADA ASSISTANT WRITER [email protected] Coat HK$16,050 JOANNE LAM 2565 2452 Shirt HK$4,200 Knit HK$3,950 CONTRIBUTORS CONTACT US Pants HK$6,400 THE ARISTOCRAT Shoes HK$9,900 VICTORIA BURROWS Editorial TAMA LUNG [email protected]

PHOTO EDITOR Advertising YVES SIEUR [email protected]

COVER PHOTO Reprint FELIX WONG [email protected] SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR STYLE is published by South China THOMAS CHANG Morning Post Publishers Ltd., Morning Post Centre, 22 Dai Fat Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories, Hong Kong. Tel 2680 8888 Printed by Toppan Printing Co (HK) Ltd., 1 Fuk Wang Street, Toppan Printing Centre, Yuen Long Industrial Estate, Yuen Long, New Territories, Hong Kong. Tel 2561 0101. It is © copyright SCMPPL and distributed free with the South China Morning Post on December 13, 2013.

DECEMBER 2013 25 INSIDE

SCOOP ANNOUNCEMENTS, NEWS, OPENINGS HIGH-SEAS WONDER

Whether in fashion or in travel, futuristic space- inspired items are always hip and cool. Now you can roam the seas in a miniature water-jet capsule. Italian designer Pierpaolo Lazzarini and Luca Solla from Italian company S3 have created a water-jet capsule which can accommodate up to four passengers. At 7.5 metres long and 3.5 metres wide, it may be smaller than a typical luxury yacht, but the spaceship-inspired capsule can be tailored to fit your every need. Want a sun bed to tan on the rooftop deck? Done. Have specific colour combinations for the plush seating in mind? Choose from a selection of more than 40 colours and motifs. CLEVER CONSPIRACY

Collaborations between great artists and fashion houses are always appealing. British artist Damien CASE IS AJAR Hirst and fashion great Alexander McQueen are the latest to join forces, yielding amazing results and For a match made in skincare heaven, fine jeweller just in time for winter. Boucheron has teamed up with La Mer to create a Celebrating the 10th anniversary of McQueen’s limited-edition case for the coveted 100ml Crème de La ubiquitous skull-print scarf, the two icons have Mer moisturiser. The exquisite mother-of-pearl case is launched a new scarf collection, consisting of part of the Christmas line and limited to 10 pieces 30 one-off designs adapted from Hirst’s worldwide. Each jar is embellished with Boucheron’s Entomology series. Hirst’s work – a colourful signature “Clous de Paris” motif and topped with a kaleidoscopic blend created from images of insects blue cabochon, reminiscent of the sea. Each jar – will be used to form the base of McQueen’s costs US$20,000. signature scarf.

GETTING HIGH ON CHAMPAGNE

For a novel bubbly experience, indulge in Champagne in a nine-storey-high pyramid at London’s five-star ME hotel. With a 24-metre skylight, the Atrium Champagne Bar offers a complimentary drink upon check-in. The bar, designed by British architectural firm Foster + Partners, recently won in the Best Bar category at the Restaurant and Bar Design Awards. The bar features sleek and minimalistic furnishings, including a 30-metre-long curving bench. The architectural firm chose not to install any art in order to not interrupt the space. Instead, the décor features projections on the walls.

26 DECEMBER 2013 INSIDE

ANNOUNCEMENTS, NEWS, OPENINGS SCOOP

10 AND ONLY Just in time for Christmas shopping, Givenchy opened its doors at Elements mall in November. Celebrating the occasion, the fashion house has produced 10 special editions of the popular Pandora Box bag. Whether in a luscious purple ostrich pattern, wrapped in a lizard motif or PAIR OF ACES showcasing an edgy python print, each bag features a special metal plaque bearing the Thailand is known for many things: stunning beaches, zesty food number of the limited edition. The bag costs and majestic elephants. Thai wines, on the other hand, have yet HK$34,500. to make their mark. But The Peninsula Bangkok and Hua Hin Meanwhile, the new 320-square-metre prêt- Hills Vineyard – the home of Monsoon Valley wines – are à-porter boutique not only pays homage to the changing that. Pairing food and wine, the hotel and the vineyard iconic Givenchy boxes used to deliver haute are offering a memorable day trip for guests. couture pieces in its design, but also takes Guests can explore an ancient elephant corral – where vines inspiration from the fashion house’s concept are planted – while on an elephant ride and sample flagship store at 28 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris and wines from the Monsoon Valley line. its Avenue George V couture shop, also in Paris. The day trip, priced at US$8,650 per person, also includes a ride in the hotel’s private helicopter, a designated limousine pick-up, and a gourmet lunch and wine pairing.

TIME FOR CHARITY

Who says we can’t look good and do good at the same time? Watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a special charity project at the opening of its Heritage 1881 boutique to give people a chance to help others while wearing beautiful timepieces. For the third consecutive year, 10 per cent of sales of the brand’s Proto Zero models will be donated to the End Child Sexual Abuse Foundations (ECSAF). The organisation was founded by Josephine Siao Fong-fong to protect youngsters from abuse. This winter, there are five new Proto Zero models available at the Heritage 1881 boutique. The HK$2 million Atmos Marqueterie L’Attente (pictured), a timepiece dedicated to and inspired by renowned artist Gustav Klimt, is available. It is limited to 10 pieces.

FORTUNE BLOOMS

As the saying goes, “diamonds are a girl’s best friend”. But a true gentleman also knows flowers are just as well appreciated. Prince Jewellery of Hong Kong has combined the two in its launch of the Peonia 88 diamond – the result of detailed research and craftsmanship. Eighty-eight intricately cut and interlocking facets unfold to reveal a peony flower, which symbolises a happy union and good fortune. The elaborate diamond takes five times as long to create than regular cut diamonds, and are especially sparkly thanks to the extra cuts. Impress your loved one with dazzling complexity.

DECEMBER 2013 27 VISION

STORY JACQUELINE TSANG IT’S COMPLICATED Vacheron Constantin’s CEO Juan-Carlos Torres insists that ‘there’s no place for arrogance’ in watchmaking

Q. Since you became CEO in workshop? Do you foresee the to make modifications on an increase this expertise over time. 2005, what would you say has brand leaning more towards one existing movement, the process We also plan to expand and been your most inspired direction in the future? will take up to three years. If you strengthen our presence in Asia, decision or business strategy? A. The older, more traditional want a completely new provide more dedicated services A. When you work at Vacheron lines all feature Vacheron complication tailor-made for you, and focus more on the bespoke Constantin, you learn something Constantin movements, and this the wait can be up to five years. department. This is the very important – there’s no place has been the case for many years. We’re also very discreet. When it philosophy of the brand – to for arrogance. The only people We still work with partners for comes to these bespoke pieces, always pursue excellence, and to who can be proud of their movements for our overseas lines we treat our customers as Swiss always do better. decisions are the engineers, the … but the target is clear: we aim banks would do theirs. creative people and the to have completely in-house watchmakers. We are only movements one day. We’re quite Q. When you first joined the here to help them with their close to this goal. At the moment company, what were the biggest creative process. close to 80 per cent of our obstacles that the brand faced, movements are in-house, and I and what are the challenges you Q. Vacheron Constantin has believe that by 2015 we’ll be using come up against daily? always been renowned for its all in-house movements. A. With a brand with such a long complicated, ground-breaking history and wealth of expertise, movements. What was the Q. How frequently does the expectation is to keep the motivation behind the decision Vacheron Constantin create expertise at the same level first to expand to include more commissioned pieces? Is this an and foremost, then to slowly metiers d’art watches in area that the brand will focus on recent years? in the future? A. We’re proactive in this field, as A. I believe we were the first to we cannot excel only in the really produce unique pieces at technical aspects of watch this level. It wasn’t just about design. We achieve a balance of changing the colour of a model or technique, aesthetics and quality engraving a message somewhere of finish. That’s very rare. When – we could actually develop a full you buy a Vacheron, you’ll always movement for our consumers, have something that is build a completely new aesthetically impressive. complication for them if that’s what they wanted. [The idea is to] Q. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania have a completely bespoke and Frédéric Piguet supply service: whatever you want, we many of the movements in your can do. watches. How do you balance There are three levels of these collaborations with the complexity. If it’s simply a matter brand’s efforts to produce its of changing the dial or the case to own high-complication suit your tastes, your watch will movements in its atelier be ready in one year. If you’d like

28 DECEMBER 2013 COVETED

STORY JOANNE LAM TICKS ALL THE BOXES WHAT: JEWELLERY CLOCK HOW MUCH: ABOUT HK$20 MILLION

WHY: If you’re looking for a stylish 3,100 diamonds amounting to and functional centrepiece to 24.5ct and a uniquely shaped wow your guests during the South Sea pearl which forms the upcoming festivities, the Horn of humming bird. Plenty “Glory” by House of The clock is tucked away in the Moiseikin may just be it. roots of the floral sculpture, and Inspired by the Garden of subtle numeral engravings and Eden, this extravagant jewelled the clock hand are concealed at ornament does not resemble a the base. timepiece at first glance. Instead, The clock may be hidden, but it the focus is on the lavish features advanced technology. adornments of fruits, orchids and The manually wound clock comes the humming bird fluttering with a small diamond-studded gently to the side. gold key and has an eight-day The splendid objet d’art is power reserve. The key can be made of more than 4,800 pieces stored in the base of the clock of natural gemstones. alongside other small valuables. Some 600 pieces of rare This elaborate timepiece Russian demantoid garnets are is the second in the Horn of Plenty studded in the clock, alongside series by the Russian company.

The clock is tucked away in the roots of the floral sculpture, and subtle numeral engravings are concealed. The key can be stored in the base of the clock alongside other small valuables.

THE SPLENDID OBJET D’ART IS MADE OF MORE THAN 4,800 PIECES OF NATURAL GEMSTONES

30 DECEMBER 2013 SPEND IT

WHAT: THE ULTIMATE KITCHEN HK$20.5 MILLION AS TOLD TO JACQUELINE TSANG ILLUSTRATION THE XSS

WHO: Catherine Cheung While it used to be the height of BREAKDOWN OF COSTS DESIGN DIRECTOR OF luxury to have a private chef in

THE XSS one’s employ, in today’s DIY 5% 4.5% Catherine Cheung studied world it’s all about being the 9 2.2% .5 architecture in New York and perfect host – and that means % returned to Hong Kong to set keeping your guests comfortable up her own design house, THE and entertained in your three- XSS. In addition to the company’s star Michelin-worthy kitchen, 37.8% 41% extensive portfolio in Hong Kong, Cheung while you whip up a delicious and has also worked on projects in Malaysia, decadent dinner. Thailand, Taiwan and on the mainland. “[A modern kitchen] should She firmly believes in balancing aesthetics function as the focal point for the and functionality, and she applies this interior space, a stage where the design philosophy to all her works. chef can perform in front of their WINE CELLAR, CHEESE CELLAR, FISH TANK AND HERB GARDEN: closest friends and family,” US$130,000 Cheung says. The designer’s LA CORNUE STOVE AND ROTISSERIE, DACOR OVEN AND WINE vision of a dream kitchen offers STATION, MUGNAINI PIZZA OVEN, SUB ZERO FRIDGE, ALFRESCO everything a chef could hope for, from a wood-fired pizza oven to a GRILL: US$120,000 seafood tank. SINK, WARMING AND COOLING DRAWERS, WORKTOPS: US$60,000 The biggest wow factor, LIGHTING AND TECHNOLOGY: US$1.08 MILLION however, comes from the CONSTRUCTION FEE: US$1 MILLION innovative rotating design. CONSULTATION FEE: US$250,000 The ergonomic kitchen is TOTAL: US$2.64 MILLION (ABOUT HK$20.5 MILLION) The ergonomic designed in two concentric kitchen is circles. The three worktops – designed in two concentric circles. traditional, bakery and vegetarian The units are – form the outer circle, while the designed to rotate, stove, fridge, ovens and rotisserie through tight spaces to prepare a important that the modern which allows the chef to prepare are stationed in the middle. The simple meal. kitchen follow the ergonomic ingredients and units are designed to rotate, “For years, kitchen triangle of “storage-preparation- cook at the same Cheung says, which “allows the manufacturers have worked with cooking”. This is certainly a spot. chef to prepare ingredients, wash the best designers and included kitchen of tomorrow, and Cheung them, bake, grill and plate while the most up-to-date technology has included only top-of-the-line standing [at the same spot]”. into their products … but it’s still appliances, including a rotisserie She adds that even with all the not easy to find convenient spatial and Table de Cuisson Grand necessary appliances and solutions for the at-home chef Palais 1800mm stove from La storage spaces, a kitchen can who wants to have all the best Cornue, a 76cm wall oven from still be awkward and appliances necessary to prepare Dacor, wood-fired pizza oven uncomfortable to use if the chef a wide range of dishes at home,” from Mugnaini and side-by-side has to manoeuvre back and forth she says, adding that it’s fridge from Sub Zero.

THE ROTATING KITCHEN OPENS ONTO AN OUTDOOR TERRACE WITH A HERB AND VEGETABLE GARDEN

32 DECEMBER 2013 For avid seafood fans, the “Modern homeowners are designer also suggests a quite cosmopolitan nowadays – stunning seafood tank that they enjoy a sophisticated and stretches across one entire healthy lifestyle. One of the wall, which doubles as an most crucial elements for aquarium for the guests’ cooking would be to have fresh, viewing pleasure, and a way to organic products,” Cheung keep their dinner as fresh as says. “We believe that the possible prior to cooking. perfect kitchen should have That slightly macabre direct access to an organic feature aside, the designer does garden where the chef also take sustainability and can harvest the fresh green living into account. ingredients themselves.” In addition to having a The kitchen itself is distinct worktop station surrounded by floor-to-ceiling designated for vegetarian windows to maximise the cooking – so that vegetarians natural light and minimise the can rest easy knowing that their boundaries between the There are also wine and terrace. “Guests can watch the meal has not come into contact outdoor and indoor areas, cheese cellars so guests are chefs as they cook”, Cheung with meat products – the allowing the greenery of the well fed and hydrated as they says. The wine cellar is kitchen also opens onto an herb garden to become a relax around the bar table, positioned above the kitchen, outdoor terrace with a herb and spectacular backdrop for which is conveniently situated accessed by a curving, vegetable garden. the space. between the worktops and floating staircase.

DECEMBER 2013 33 FRONT ROW

SHORSTORY VIVIAN CHEN MICROFILMS ARE NOW ALL THE RAGE FOR LUXURY BRANDS TO GET ANDTHEIR MESSAGE ACROSS SWEE

34 DECEMBER 2013 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Gucci channels the James Bond spirit in the Bamboo Confidential campaign; Cartier collaborated with famous animator Bibo Bergeron for its Winter Tale this year; Salvatore Ferragamo’s Walking Stories is an eight-episode microfilm series; actress Zhang Jingchu’s directorial debut is a microfilm for De Beers.

DECEMBER 2013 35 FRONT ROW

FILMS TELL THE BRAND’S STORY MORE VIVIDLY DIANE PERNET OF ASVOFF

ream team Scarlett Luxury brands have splurged on promotional Johansson, Matthew microfilms with whopping budgets. Chanel has cast McConaughey and Brad Pitt, Keira Knightley and Anna Mouglalis, while Martin Scorsese were brands including Salvatore Ferragamo, Cartier gearing up for a blockbuster – and Prada have collaborated with top filmmakers, but not quite the kind you had in such as Luca Guadagnino and Roman Polanski of The mind. In fact, the Hollywood Pianist fame. heavyweights united for a three-minute With these all-star cast and crew on board, video, packed with witty conversations and flirty glances, for Dolce & microfilms are moving away from the clichéd slow- Gabbana’s latest fragrance campaign. paced, montage shots of products or stick-thin Shot in artistic black-and-white, the short video follows the couple models showcasing them. who, after years of separation, share a car ride in New York’s cool West Commercial microfilms are set to adopt human- Village. Until the closing credits start rolling, you could hardly have interest themes and intriguing plots. Fashion and

BELOW guessed what the commercial is trying to sell. film have intertwined to a state that has exceeded the DDolce & Gabbana’s fragrance The term “microfilm” was coined to describe such short videos. anticipations of many. campaign stars Hollywood Luxury brands from fashion to watches and jewellery have been jumping “At first, it was like propelling a very embryonic heavyweights Matthew McConaughey and Scarlett on the bandwagon. The hype has also contributed to the evolution movement forward. But what I could never have Johansson. of microfilms. anticipated was how quickly the cross-over between fashion and film would evolve from wild experimentation into something so sophisticated and mature,” says Diane Pernet, who picked up the trend in early 2006 and founded A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF), which is dedicated to promoting fashion films. The organisation’s latest film festival showcased a programme, which included contributors such as Manish Arora, Tilda Swinton and Hussein Chalayan, at the prestigious Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris. As seen in ASVOFF’s programme, different genres are being tapped by brands to expand the microfilm trend – think romantic comedy, espionage thriller, documentary, animation and more. Chanel’s The Return, which premiered on December 10, captured the brand’s legendary founder Coco Chanel reopening her couture house in 1954, while Gucci channels James Bond’s spirit in

36 DECEMBER 2013 Bamboo Confidential as the heroine in the microfilm communication director of Salvatore Ferragamo, agrees. He says the ABOVE dodges paparazzi. Walking Stories campaign is aimed at engaging the audience. Louis Vuitton casts David Bowie in its For animation, Fendi debuted its Bag Bugs fall/ “With Walking Stories, we are not trying to sell a product as we do in latest L’Invitation au winter campaign with an interactive cartoon, so did advertising,” he says. “Viewers identify themselves more easily with a Voyage microfilm, an Cartier with its latest Winter Tale campaign created woman wearing a pair of shoes [than with a pair of shoes on display in a extension to its earlier campaign. by Bibo Bergeron – the animator and director of A photography studio].” Monster in Paris. French jeweller Cartier’s artistic, image and strategy director Pierre BELOW Others such as design wunderkind Alexander Rainero says microfilms need to be genuine to affect the audience. Famous filmmaker Carmen Chaplin’s Wang wowed fans with a surprising collaboration “Authenticity is important,” Rainero says, adding that feelings can only made a microfilm for with comedian Bon Qui Qui that went viral on social be stirred by real things. Jaeger-LeCoultre media platforms. Apart from experimenting with To translate emotion from jewellery to images, Cartier produced a which stars her mother and daughter. various genres, luxury brands are going a step further series of microfilms under the marriage proposal theme which was well to create longer episodes and microfilm series. received by audiences. The luxury house also cast local stars for its Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest Walking Stories, for region-specific campaigns – Taiwanese actress Michelle Chen and example, consists of eight episodes. Each of the Canto-pop star Andy Lau starred in its jewellery and fine three-minute long episodes is released once every watch campaigns. two weeks on its website. The episodes follow a Unlike earlier commercial videos made almost exclusively for TV, protagonist on a globetrotting journey. microfilms now target audiences on the internet through brands’ “It’s a cute love story that doesn’t talk a lot about the brand,” says James Ferragamo, who overlooks Ferragamo’s women’s leather products. “It is a wonderful way to present the collection. It doesn’t include much analysis – it’s a cute video people would enjoy.” Early microfilm makers, such as Cartier and Chanel and, more recently, Louis Vuitton, have all released similar campaigns, featuring linked episodes. Luxury brands believe that presenting products in a subtle way can strike a chord with the audience. “Films allow the creator to tell the brand’s story or the collection’s story [more vividly],” Pernet says. “Films capture the clothes in motion with a 360- degree perspective, which is crucial in fashion. You also get a subtle sense of how a garment [looks] or the light and shade it produces.” Ferragamo’s Andrea Tremolada, worldwide

DECEMBER 2013 37 FRONT ROW

official websites and social media platforms. The growing social media speeds up the development of fashion microfilms. “[Social media] has IT IS A WONDERFUL WAY TO PRESENT THE changed the way we define a campaign’s popularity,” Tremolada says. COLLECTION. IT’S A CUTE VIDEO JAMES FERRAGAMO He explains that before the internet came into existence, popularity had a different meaning and was measured based on different criteria. Social media platforms have led to the possibility of interactive campaigns, which has encouraged luxury brands to push the boundaries worked with a sparkling bottle floating in the water to ABOVE even further. “The format [of fashion films] is more spontaneous and less reflect light onto the camera.” Geraldine Chaplin stars as Coco Chanel scripted,” Pernet says. Also adopting an artistic approach in her in the brand’s newly “The spirit of fashion [microfilms] is typically one where consumers microfilms is famous filmmaker Carmen Chaplin, released microfilm granddaughter of the iconic Charlie Chaplin, a comic The Return, written expect brands to push the boundaries a bit more.” and directed by Scotch whisky distiller Chivas launched a campaign in collaboration actor, filmmaker and composer who rose to fame in Karl Lagerfeld. with local filmmaker Heiward Mak. It engaged audiences on a different the era of silent movies. level. Fans got the chance to make the microfilm together with the The short film, entitled A Time for Everything for professional crew in the Dream City video campaign. watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, was written and The brand is hosting a soiree tonight at Ritz-Carlton’s Ozone for an directed by Chaplin. The microfilm stars her mother exclusive preview of the short film. “I’m looking forward to working with Patricia and her baby daughter Uma – to illustrate people passionate about film,” Mak says. legacy passed through three generations. However, Pernet says social media, although important, should not “I wanted to make something artistic and become the driving force. beautiful,” Chaplin says. “Making a 10-second YouTube hit about a talking dog or a dancing “Although the film is presented like a series of baby is not the same thing as making a 30-second fashion film, which black and white stills, I wanted an emotional captures the depths of the imagination and soul of a designer like Gareth connection running through it.” Pugh,” she says. Such collaborations might have unleashed the Like Chivas’ collaboration with Mak, talents in the fashion potential of multitalented individuals, but Pernet and film industries are coming together and taking microfilms to a whole believes it’s a format that needs proceeding new level. with caution. Despite its commercial nature, filmmakers are also taking on fashion “The problem now is that fashion films microfilms as a creative endeavour. are becoming so prolific so fast that every fashion Zhang Jingchu, the famous Chinese actress of Silver Bear-winning photographer’s agent is trying to force Peacock fame, presented her directorial debut with a microfilm she made their photographers to become filmmakers,” for jeweller De Beers, released two weeks ago. Pernet says. Zhang shot the microfilm with long-time collaborators filmmaker “Those who can’t make the instant transition Wang Chih-po and cinematographer Kwan Pun-leung in Israel. The trio from one to the other are, in my view, precisely what managed to capture the ethereal play of light and shadow with their [may undermine] the artistic merit or even the microfilm. “We wanted the microfilm to look dreamy,” Zhang says. “We commercial validity of a fashion film.”

38 DECEMBER 2013 SECONDS

RIGHT Xue Song’s mixed media on canvas work of Mao Zedong is priced at HK$300,000 to HK$380,000. Xue is one of the most seminal artists from Shanghai, and the variety of topics he explored is impressive.

LEFT Zhou Chunya’s Green Dog sculpture costs HK$450,000 to HK$750,000. It is a rare and slick interpretation of the artist’s iconic series of paintings.

STORY VICTORIA BURROWS S T ROKES OF GENIUS

THE CHINESE CONTEMPORARY MARKET’S RISE IN A SHORT PERIOD ‘IS UNBELIEVABLE’ AND AN ‘INCREDIBLE STORY’

here is a new look to Chinese contemporary art, Baron Guy Ullens de Schooten, the renowned and it’s not the grotesquely smiling faces of Yue Switzerland-based philanthropist whose Chinese art Minjun’s iconic paintings of the 1990s, nor is it collection now has nearly 1,500 works, making it one Zhang Xiaogang’s eerily silent family portraits of the world’s largest. “It’s an incredible story. The from the same period. These paintings took the world by storm Chinese market is now at the same level as anywhere in the mid-2000s, making headlines with their record- else. To get to this in eight years is unbelievable.” smashing sales. The story goes that Europeans had increasingly in Now, Chinese contemporary art is too diverse and the 1970s and ’80s shown interest in Chinese artists multifaceted to be represented by the images of just a few expressing the ordeal of having grown up through a painters, and collectors who were able to make smart period of political and social turmoil – that great investments on a short list of big names are advised to do their suffering produces great art is one the most enduring homework in a market that is as complex, varied and volatile as Western notions of artistic creation. In the 1990s, the any other. continued opening of China to the rest of the world “Before 2005, the market for Chinese contemporary art ignited a craze for Chinese works of art, especially in barely existed; there were few dealers and fewer sales,” says the United States.

40 DECEMBER 2013

SECONDS

the big sums are now being paid largely by a new breed of Chinese buyers interested in their own artistic heritage. Zeng Fanzhi’s The Last Supper (2001), a piece formerly in Ullens’ collection, just set a new record for contemporary Asian art – plus the world auction record for a work by a living Chinese artist – by fetching HK$180.44 million during auction house Sotheby’s autumn 2013 Hong Kong sale. The five- day autumn sale totalled HK$4.196 billion, surpassing presale estimates of HK$2.88 billion. ABOVE Zhang Huan’s Our Parents For foreign buyers, there is a shift away from was on display at Frieze works that are inherently about China’s social and London last year and drew a lot political setting, according to Theresa Liang, of attention. exhibition director at Long March Space gallery in RIGHT Beijing. How Chinese contemporary works are now Chen Ke’s Waiting for the displayed overseas is telling. In the mid- to Blossom Time is an oil on canvas painting. It costs late-2000s, star curators such as Hans-Ulrich Obrist, HK$450,000 to the co-director of exhibitions and programmes at HK$600,000. The artist’s Serpentine Gallery in London, co-curated group work is extremely labour-intensive. shows on China. There was, for example, the series of “China Power Station” shows in London, Oslo and Luxembourg, which gave an overview of what was happening in the mainland’s contemporary art scene. However, in the last couple of years the focus has changed. “Curators are no longer doing group China shows. Now, curators – especially in centres such as London and New York – are including Chinese contemporary artists in themed exhibitions, like they would for artists of the West and other countries. Moreover, there are also decisively more solo presentations dedicated to Chinese artists in renowned institutions in the Western art world,” Liang says. “There was a group show on China at London’s By the mid-2000s, contemporary works by Chinese artists were Hayward Gallery last year, but it was more like a breaking auction sales records, and Yue Minjun, along with other cynical selection of solo shows under the same umbrella, realists such as Fang Lijun and Liu Wei, plus pop-political artists Wang rather than a survey show of the mid-2000s. The Guangyi, Yo Youhan and Li Shan, came to signify a new global dominance focus now is more on the individual artist and what by Chinese art. their work is about rather than what China is about. I Then the recession hit and the paying of wild prices for contemporary think this is a healthy development.” Chinese art by European and American collectors came to an abrupt stop. Matthew Slotover, director of Frieze Art Fair in Now the market is picking up again, with especially the last couple of London, which took place in October, says he has months seeing some major movement. The difference, however, is that been surprised by how cutting-edge the market for Chinese contemporary art in Europe is. After fielding requests over the past few years to include more Chinese contemporary art in the Frieze, THE FOCUS IS ON THE INDIVIDUAL ARTIST AND WHAT Slotover says he visited China to find artists and galleries that have a strong curatorial background, THEIR WORK IS ABOUT THERESA LIANG OF LONG MARCH SPACE

as well as market experience. TOP PHOTO: LINDA NYLIND, COURTESY OF FRIEZE

42 DECEMBER 2013 SECONDS

COLLECTORS TAKE ART A new class of Chinese art buyers is making its impact felt globally, although 80 to 90 per cent of the market comprises Chinese antiques, classical works and modern ink paintings. Laure Raibaut, senior specialist of the Modern and Contemporary art department at auction house Bonhams, says this is because WE SUPPORT ARTISTS WHO PUSH THINGS FORWARD, the mainland has a different visual tradition RATHER THAN REPEAT WORKS MATTHEW SLOTOVER OF FRIEZE from in Europe and America. “Oil paintings, photography and sculpture are foreign to more traditional Chinese “We try to support artists who push things forward, audiences,” she says. rather than repeat works done 10 years before,” he “There are many more collectors of antiques says. “Surprisingly, we found a market at the Frieze and classical paintings. The contemporary for the most experimental works. One gallery, market is expanding, however.” Vitamin Creative Space from Guangzhou, showed a Art market information website performance art piece by Chu Yun of a woman artprice.com now lists ink painters such as sleeping at the stand every day. We never expected it Zhang Daqian (1899-1983), Qi Baishi (1864-1957) to sell, but it did.” and Xu Beihong (1895-1953) along with Picasso While some European collectors were scared off and Andy Warhol as being some of the biggest- Chinese contemporary art by the artworks of Yue selling artists in the world, and these sales are Minjun and their prices, there is a growing awareness buoyed largely by mainland Chinese sales. by collectors who are taking the time to do their But cutting-edge contemporary art is also research and understand that China has a lively being bought by mainlanders, mainly under-40s contemporary scene. Liang says she sees three who are serious about art and supporting their different types of collectors at overseas fairs such as favourite artists. Frieze in London: collectors who don’t know “Chinese collectors have become very anything about Chinese contemporary art or Long mature and sharp in only a few years,” says March Space but are attracted to one piece of work; renowned Belgian collector Baron Guy Ullens. collectors who know the gallery but not the artists; and “There’s so much wealth in China in the top collectors who have been collecting and watching the middle classes, and they have suddenly realised market, are very knowledgeable and know exactly they have an extraordinary art history and a what they want. Each fair, she says, has a unique great, and continuing, artistic tradition. Younger personality and attracts different collectors. collectors are highly educated and ready to TOP Avant-garde Chinese art is especially popular with French collectors, take risks in supporting even the most By the mid-2000s, artists according to Laure Raibaut, senior specialist of the new Modern and contemporary of art.” like Fang Lijun came to signify global dominance Contemporary art department at auction house Bonhams. by Chinese art. His wood “The UK, with its strong trade links with China since colonial times, cut is worth HK$1.15 million is more focused on Chinese antiques, especially porcelain and ceramics, to HK$1.4 million. but France is very strong on China’s contemporary art. Italy, Portugaland ABOVE Spain are interested in modern and contemporary artists from China.” Zeng Fanzhi’s untitled oil Ullens – who created the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, the on canvas, dated 2006, is worth HK$3.5 million first private non-profit cultural institution in China, in 2007 – says the to HK$4 million. Zeng is huge number of museums now opening in China, the fact that sales are known for his inspiration increasing in all styles of art from monochrome painting to avant-garde and curiosity to explore Western artworks. performance art, and that the mainland has excellent art schools, are sure signs that the art scene is going to become even more dynamic.

44 DECEMBER 2013 FASHION

PHOTOGRAPHY & CREATIVE DIRECTION JESPER MCILROY ART DIRECTION & STYLING DECLAN CHAN @ DECLANCHAN.COM ASSOCIATE STYLIST JUSTINE LEE PRODUCTION JASMINE [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT JACOB LIU HAIR & MAKE-UP ESTHER KWAN MODEL HENRI A.@STARZ PEOPLE

46 DECEMBER 2013 MIRROR MIRROR HOW MUCH MORE DO WE SEE IN A REFLECTION? WE DISCOVER THE SURPRISING DETAILS AND SIDES OF OURSELVES, HITHERTO UNSEEN, AS WE GAZE INTO THE LOOKING GLASS

VALENTINO Coat: HK$96,000 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Knit: HK$9,200 Shoes: HK$11,950 BURBERRY Trousers: HK$6,500

DECEMBER 2013 47 FASHION

GUCCI Coat: HK$24,000 Trousers: HK$6,500 Knit. Price on request. Shoes: HK$8,500 GIORGIO ARMANI Coat: HK$67,000 SAINT LAURENT Shirt: HK$10,450

DECEMBER 2013 49 FASHION

SAINT LAURENT Coat: HK$23,500, Jeans: HK$6,400 Long Sleeve T-shirt: HK$4,250 LANVIN Jacket: HK$37,300 GUCCI Shoes: HK$8,500

50 DECEMBER 2013 BURBERRY Coat: HK$27,000 Trousers: HK$7,800 VALENTINO Shirt: HK$5,200 Tie: HK$1,200 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Shoes: HK$11,950

DECEMBER 2013 51 MUSE

STORY VIVIAN CHEN ROLES OF FAME A true professional, Gong Li is back in the limelight as she collaborates with long-time friend and former partner Zhang Yimou on a new film

Her raw beauty and effortless acting wowed audiences at home and abroad. The film garnered critical acclaim and won the coveted Golden Bear Award in Berlin. However, it only earned Gong a pay cheque of 200 yuan (HK$255). The actress laughs when this is mentioned, explaining: “[Zhang and I] were both young and the only thing we knew and the only thing we did was make movies.” The film also started a prolific chapter for the long-time collaboration between Gong and Zhang. Years following Red Sorghum’s success, the two became intimate partners in business and in private life. The golden couple’s obvious chemistry shone through in prominent films such as Ju Dou (1990), Gong Li and director Like the many rooms she has entered, Gong Li owns Raise the Red Lantern (1991) and The Story of Qiu Ju Zhang Yimou have been this one the moment she walks into the suite at The (1992). These films invariably starred Gong as a collaborating for years. Peninsula Hong Kong. Arriving for our interview, the tough, rebellious heroine. beauty flaunts her femme-fatale physique in a sleek Such celebrated and award-winning works ensemble of monochrome pant suit, leaving us contributed to the rise of the so-called fifth smitten with her megawatt beam. generation of Chinese filmmakers in light of the post- More than 25 years in the film industry have Cultural Revolution era. They also made Gong the transformed the once innocent daughter of most recognisable face of the renaissance of academics into a sophisticated incarnation of a Chinese cinema. celluloid dream. The beginning of that dream can However, Zhang and Gong’s romantic be traced back to 1987, when she was in Beijing’s relationship was doomed, in similar fashion to the prestigious Central Academy of Drama and was cast tragic endings of on-screen lovers in the many films by fellow alumnus Zhang Yimou in his directorial they had made. The pair ended their filmmaking debut, Red Sorghum. collaboration after Shanghai Triad in 1995. This opened a world of opportunities for Gong. Famous filmmakers, such as Chen Kaige, Wong Kar-wai and I DON’T WANT TO PLAY AN IRRELEVANT ROLE IN A Sun Zhou, put her in a diverse spectrum of HOLLYWOOD PRODUCTION JUST FOR THE SAKE OF IT characters, from the Cannes Palme d’Or-winning Farewell My Concubine to Breaking the Silence.

52 DECEMBER 2013 Gong Li always makes a superstar entrance. Here, she dazzles in jewellery made by Piaget.

DECEMBER 2013 53 MUSE

BELOW RIGHT Memoirs of a Geisha was Gong Li’s Hollywood breakthrough.

LEFT Gong Li stars opposite Colin Farrell in the Hollywood crime thriller Miami Vice.

Rob Marshall, who cast her as Hatsumomo, a FILMS ARE A FORM OF ART. I’M NOT AN ENTERTAINER. talented yet tragic geisha, in Memoirs of a Geisha, had been in touch with Gong years before the I’M AN ACTRESS. IT’S MY PROFESSION AND MY PRIDE production, while Michael Mann of Miami Vice had hoped to cast Gong in his 1995 crime thriller Heat. “My goal is to live the different lives of my “If I don’t believe in the filmmaker, I won’t characters – their highs and the lows,” she says. “My commit,” Gong says. “I have a lot of trust in Rob. He’s dream is to leave behind memorable characters for a great filmmaker and he appreciates my acting. We the audience.” have mutual respect for each other.” Gong’s exceptional works earned her a seat on While many Chinese actresses fight for the the judging panel of international film festivals in chance for fleeting appearances in Hollywood Berlin, Venice and Tokyo, and invitations from productions, Gong sees it differently. Hollywood filmmakers. “I don’t want to play an irrelevant role in a Offers kept flooding her way, but Gong didn’t rush Hollywood production just for the sake of it,” to commit. she says. “I choose my characters carefully,” Gong says. In the same year as Miami Vice’s global release, “When I play a character that can tap into my Gong reunited with Zhang in Curse of the Golden potential and fully unleash what I have to offer, I can’t Flower, an epic drama set in the imperial court of get enough of it. But if I get an average character, I ancient China. The film is a reinterpretation of Cao just can’t wait for filming to end.” Yu’s famous play Thunderstorm. The actress adds that, nowadays, she rarely takes Unlike their earlier collaborations, the film, on a role she thinks she will not love. She even turned starring Chinese heavyweights such as Chow Yun-fat down an offer to play a Bond girl in one of the James and singer-filmmaker Jay Chou, was a lavish Bond installments. production boasting a whopping budget of nearly “Even though [a Bond girl] is a supporting role, HK$350 million. Gong’s impressive portrayal she still needs to have character,” Gong says. “I of Empress Phoenix won her a great deal of don’t want to play just another pretty woman waiting recognition including the Hong Kong Film Award to be rescued.” for Best Actress. She joined more serious Hollywood forays, such Gong’s professionalism impressed the film’s as Memoirs of a Geisha (2005) and Miami Vice (2006), award-winning costume designer Yee Chung-man, because of the trust she had already built with the who dressed her in revealing Tang dynasty- filmmakers. inspired gowns.

54 DECEMBER 2013 “She was co-operative and down to earth,” the her one of China cinema’s most famous exports. She MILESTONES artistic director recalls, revealing that: “You don’t has won nearly all the coveted awards at international see a lot of actresses like her. Her beauty is timeless film festivals, what else does she expect to gain from and international.” The Return? Seven years on, Gong is working with Zhang “Rather than winning awards, it’s more important again, not in another commercial blockbuster, but that the film is recognised on an international level,” portraying a complex character that the veteran she says. “Films are not produced just to make actress finds a challenging role. money – they are a limitless form of art.” Gong plays a compassionate wife separated from Back on set with Zhang, Gong says their chemistry her husband during the Culture Revolution and hasn’t diminished. suffering from amnesia before their reunion in “The passion we had is still there,” she says. Zhang’s upcoming drama. Aptly named The Return, “What has changed is now that I’m in full control of there is much interest in the film as Zhang is viewed my performance, I look at the bigger picture for better to be revisiting his earlier works and going back to storytelling. Zhang is a devoted filmmaker.” telling stories about the lives of ordinary people. Many say her relationship with Zhang goes way The challenge, Gong says, is exactly why she beyond friendship or romance. “They are like family,” decided to take the part. Yee says. “It’s one of those characters that the audience Rumours, however, persist. Now she’s back on will either love or hate – there’s no grey area,” she the paparazzi radar, Gong’s personal life has become says. “The character suffers [from] amnesia but a hot topic. Speculation about her suspected divorce 1985 she’s not crazy. The acting needs to be delicate and from Singaporean tycoon Ooi Hoe Seong began three Admitted to Central Academy of Drama genuine. For me, it is challenging and rewarding.” years ago. in Beijing Artistic director and long-time friend Yee Gong shrugs and looks as if she couldn’t care less remembers an anecdote on the set of Curse of the about the side effects of her stardom. 1987 Golden Flower that also says so much about Gong’s “Rumours have become a part of my life. Nothing Made film debut in Zhang Yimou’s Golden approach to acting. can really hurt me. I don’t have anything to hide,” Bear Award-winning Red Sorghum “It was a monologue scene, and she would cry just she says. one drop of tear, no more and no less. She did that in “I’m not going to change to make people like me 1990 all four takes,” Yee says. because I’m not an entertainer. I’m an actress. It’s my She played a teenage girl sold as a wife to an Gong’s genius and appetite for hard work made profession and it’s my pride.” elderly man in the controversial Ju Dou. The film, initially banned in China, became the first mainland film nominated for the Academy Awards

1992 Won Best Actress award at Venice Film Festival for her performance in The Story of Qiu Ju

1996 Married Singaporean tycoon Ooi Hoe Seong

2000 Became jury president at Berlin International Film Festival

2005 Made her Hollywood breakthrough with Memoirs of a Geisha

2006 Reunited with Zhang Yimou in Curse of the Golden Flower

2013 Filming Zhang’s The Return, co-starring with Chen Daoming and Liu Peiqi

DECEMBER 2013 55 FASHION

AIR OF MYS ERY WE EMBRACE THE MAGIC OF THE WITCHING HOUR THIS PARTY SEASON, INDULGING IN LUXE, GLAMOROUS TEXTURES AND MOODY, SULTRY HUES

CELINE Dress. Price on request

56 DECEMBER 2013 PHOTOGRAPHER HANNAH KHYMYCH STYLIST CONNIE BERG MODEL CLARICE @ NEXT MODELS MAKE-UP CHRISTINE @ ART DEPARTMENT HAIR TAMAS TUZES @ L’ATELIER NYC NAILS NAOKO SAITA DIGITAL TECH JOHN FASULO PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT ALESSANDRO ZOPPIS STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS LEANNE WOODLEY, TISHKA DUPERA SET DESIGN BRIAN BACKMAN NOTE: ALL PRICES WERE CONVERTED FROM US DOLLARS

DECEMBER 2013 57 FASHION

ALEXANDER WANG Bolero: HK$13,760 Top: HK$4,260

58 DECEMBER 2013 BALENCIAGA Dress. Price on request

DECEMBER 2013 59 FASHION

PRADA Vest: HK$7,710 Cardigan: HK$5,500 MOSCHINO Top: HK$5,390 BARBARA SHAUM Belt: HK$2,310 STILJUS Pants: HK$5,000

60 DECEMBER 2013 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Knit top (underneath): HK$2,710 TESS GIBERSON Jacket: HK$7,710 ACNE Dress: HK$14,000 J CREW VINTAGE Shirt. Price on request, PRADA Shoes. Price on request

DECEMBER 2013 61 LUST-HAVE

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62 DECEMBER 2013 LOUIS VUITTON

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DECEMBER 2013 63 LUST-HAVE

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64 DECEMBER 2013 LUST-HAVE

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66 DECEMBER 2013 DIVERSIONS

STORY JOANNE LAM INTERVIEW FRANCESCA DAVOLI PHOTOGRAPHY FABRIZIO CICCONI GROWING HOME Fashion designer Laura Urbinati turns a warehouse and a ‘horrible’ flat into a perfect residence and headquarters

Italian fashion designer Laura for two years while living in the Urbinati, renowned for creating apartment just a few steps above. Then, clothing for women who are natural, the space close to her office and directly laid back and do not try to hide their wild below her home became available. streak, “fell in love” when she first laid The designer’s next step was eyes on what was to become obvious. She snapped up the space and her sanctuary. began plans to combine the areas. In Urbinati’s clothing integrates the end, Urbinati chose to install a geometric lines and bold patterns with winding staircase to connect her home splashes of vibrant colours – and her with the studio below. home and office certainly take a page In doing so, she created a sanctuary from the same book. with two distinct personalities. The Originally from Rome and later ground floor – an area for work and trained in the United States, Urbinati social life – is dedicated to entertaining ultimately chose to return to Italy, friends and family at the weekends. The settling down in Milan. When she first first floor is reserved for quiet, private arrived in the fashion capital, a friend family life. recommended an abandoned “The upper floor isn’t that big,” the warehouse as her workspace. The crisp fashion designer says of her living area. white minimalistic space appealed to “But, the terrace [gives it a more the designer and she quickly embraced spacious feeling].” it as her new headquarters. The terrace certainly does help open “I fell in love with [the warehouse],” up the apartment, adding warmth and the designer remembers. And with luck brightness through floor-to-ceiling on her side, the rest fell into place. Fashion designer Laura Urbinati feels lucky that she found windows. For Urbinati, it was also a chance to “Five years ago, I found out that a small her home and headquarters by pure coincidence. “recreate a corner of Puglia”, a region in southern apartment [with a huge terrace] on the first floor of Italy also known as Apulia. She filled the outdoor the same building was on sale,” she says. “It was in space with plants and flowers to create a rustic horrible shape, but it didn’t take me long to decide Mediterranean enclave. to buy it.” To make the most of the beautiful area, the Urbinati happily worked downstairs in her studio fashion designer created an outdoor sitting area

68 DECEMBER 2013 Laura Urbinati uses bold colours in her furniture to add warmth to her home.

DECEMBER 2013 69 DIVERSIONS

ABOVE allowing her to soak up the sun in her downtime, and against white walls the designer has deliberately Laura Urbinati a dining area leading directly from her kitchen. left blank. chose to install a winding staircase to The use of understated rustic furniture, such as The downstairs floor is covered with rugs of connect her home wooden white tables and chairs and rugs and varying sizes with different geometric motifs. “The with her studio. cushions of subdued colours, keeps the focus rugs were bought in Ibiza from a friend who imports on the greenery. them from Morocco,” Urbinati recalls. The rugs, Urbinati’s house reflects her design aesthetics, which share a subdued ivory and black palette, bring and the decorating process came naturally. “I never unity to the flow of the downstairs space, which in all have time to go shopping,” she says. “The furniture in its entity is one large room divided only by rustic, this house is the same as what I’ve had with me over gravelly pillars. the past 30 years – from Rome to Pesaro to Los “The rugs turned out to be the perfect trick for Angeles.” She collected most of her furniture and softening [the room’s] emptiness,” she says. knick-knacks from vintage markets across the globe. Another distinctive feature is the vibrant colours The result is an exotic blend of culture and style of the armchairs and sofas. Strategically placed

70 DECEMBER 2013 THE MOROCCAN RUGS ARE PERFECT FOR SOFTENING THE ROOM’S EMPTINESSS DESIGNER LAURA URBINATI

TIPS ON INTERIORS “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication,” Leonardo da Vinci famously mused. Here are some tips to create your minimalistic home:

● Choose natural materials. Natural materials, such as wood and wool, add warmth to the space without adding clutter.

● Pick an accent colour. An overabundance of colours can make a room too busy. Pick a statement colour and play with different shades and hues. against understated wooden furniture and white Match it with neutrals and one or two shelving, the bright reds and purples stand out complimentary shades. against the abundance of sleek whites. Urbinati also mixes and matches a kaleidoscope ● Less is more. Empty space on walls of prints and patterns in her cushions, adding a slice goes a long way. Use only one or two of life and energy to a largely unembellished space. pieces of statement art. For the fashion designer, despite the minimalism, it really is a home filled with heart and soul. “I love ● Embrace lines. Whether horizontal, this house,” she says. “It was born out of a path of life TOP vertical or inclined, geometric lines Laura Urbinati’s home also doubles as her and experiences.” It is a strong yet fitting statement studio and is a comfortable, relaxing space to (rather than curves) help create a clean, to make, since she acquired her house and her help her tap into her creativity. minimalistic look. furniture in such a serendipitous way. And she’s in no ABOVE hurry to change her approach: “I’m missing some The designer maintains minimalistic pieces of art, but I’m sure they will come.” vibes throughout her home.

DECEMBER 2013 71 DIVERSIONS

STORY TAMA LUNG ADVENTURES FOR SAIL A new fleet of luxury yachts is providing travellers with access to what were once unreachable regions

72 DECEMBER 2013 LEFT The Alila Purnama was handcrafted from ironwood in the traditional style of an Indonesian phinisi sailing ship.

BELOW Activities offered to guests of Alila Purnama include snorkelling, scuba-diving and waterskiing.

When filmmakers Lorne and Lawrence Blair set out tribesmen, who they were told “have a weakness for to document the remote atolls of Indonesia’s Ring of ‘losing’ their passengers”, our friendly crew of 13 Fire, the British brothers encountered starvation, includes a talented chef, massage therapist, IT near-drowning, erupting volcanoes and corrupt specialist and an Italian cruise director who is also a customs officers with little more than some Marmite, certified dive master and yoga instructor. a first-aid kit and a bottle of Grand Marnier. “Yachting offers the ability to switch off in total Forty years later, I’m reading of their hair-raising privacy and enjoy complete escapism in the most adventures while sipping my fresh pineapple and amazing places on earth, with the service of a seven- strawberry juice in the air conditioned comfort of the star hotel,” says Charlie Birkett, CEO and founding Alila Purnama. The 46-metre boat is anchored off the partner of Y.CO, which specialises in luxury yacht shores of Indonesia’s Komodo Island, where we have charters and superyacht sales. just finished a breakfast of freshly baked croissants “Guests can follow summer around the world – and cappuccino before speeding off to our they can be in the Mediterranean or the Caribbean, or rendezvous with the fabled carnivorous “dragons”. exploring last frontiers from the Antarctic and the The Purnama (“Full Moon”) – built by Indonesian Galapagos Islands to the endless archipelagos of fashion designer Tasya Ascobat Reza and managed Southeast Asia. There is no other way of seeing the by Alila Hotels and Resorts – is one of a new breed of world in such style and luxury.” luxury liveaboards offering travellers access to some It’s experiences like these that drew the intrepid of the most remote regions of the globe, while Blair brothers to Indonesia all those years ago, and providing all the amenities of the finest resorts. will no doubt lead more travellers to pull up Whereas the Blairs set sail with fierce Bugis anchor on a liveaboard. “Discerning luxury

DECEMBER 2013 73 LEFT Y.CO’s motor yacht, Big Fish, is designed for long-distance travel to the Antarctic or across the Pacific Ocean.

ISLANDS OF FUN Since its launch in December 2012, the Alila THERE IS NO OTHER WAY OF SEEING THE WORLD IN Purnama’s (above) most popular journey has been to Raja Ampat with its 600 islands – an SUCH STYLE AND LUXURY CHARLIE BIRKETT “underwater Shangri-la” for divers. Guests can also request private charters and tailor- made itineraries. Activities include diving, tailor-made adventures. In countries that are new to year, Soneva Resorts in the Maldives will launch its snorkelling, watersports and trekking. us, we will have our captain and then we’ll take a local “floating villa yacht experience”, Soneva in Aqua. Handcrafted from ironwood in the traditional captain so we know all the hidden spots. And then I, for one, will never forget my heart leaping at the style of an Indonesian phinisi sailing ship, Alila we’ll bring on different instructors. For example, end of our Komodo trek. We had finally come face-to- Purnama is a unique blend of classic design I like tai chi and kung fu, so I’ll bring a kung fu master face with one of the massive lizards, who looked to be and modern luxury. on board.” half-asleep until one of us dropped a wide-brimmed The air conditioned and Wi-fi-equipped boat Even for someone like Lazarus, who has his own hat and he lunged to his feet in preparation for boasts five en-suite cabins, including a master aircraft, the total freedom of a luxury yacht is attack. Thankfully, the beast retreated – with the help suite with shower, bathtub and private balcony, “indescribable”. “What we found, especially in Asian of our guides and their trusty sticks – and we were plus a library, spacious dining and lounge area, waters, is that we were going to places that people left with a story I once thought could only be found in and three decks for relaxation, spa treatments didn’t go to ordinarily,” he says. “I wanted to dive a the pages of a book. or yoga lessons. specific spot and it was five hours away from where we were in Thailand, so we travelled there, took a dive The Oasis, available for charter and then went from there to Malaysia. Even if you go from Y.CO, houses up to 12 guests with a helicopter or a private jet, you can’t get to some and comes with a fleet of tenders and jet skis for watersports fans. of these places.” Rather than lose business to the high seas, a number of hotel groups have ventured into the charter business. Four Seasons Maldives takes guests – along with dive instructors, master chefs, a spa therapist and even a marine biologist – to isolated reefs and uninhabited beaches aboard its 39-metre, three-deck catamaran. Aman Resorts has a range of boats at several locations – including an entire fleet of vessels at its flagship Amanpuri resort in Phuket, Thailand – for sunset cruises to four-day-long scuba certification courses. Options include a Chinese sailing junk, a custom-built dive boat and a 27-metre luxury cruiser with air conditioned cabins and a Thai-style lounge area. Richard Branson’s Necker Island hideaway in the British Virgin Islands offers its Necker Belle catamaran for island-hopping adventures. And next

DECEMBER 2013 75 DIVERSIONS

travellers are looking for the unexpected and the unforgettable,” Birkett says. “Exploring otherwise inaccessible regions by yacht is an experience that will create lifelong memories.” For these seasoned travellers, tailor-made programmes and customised services are a must, and few companies do it as seamlessly as the fully customised charters aboard South African entrepreneur Kirk Lazarus’ superyacht, Told U So. “I’ve chartered a lot of boats and a lot of them are beautiful, but the quality of the service or the food or the overall experience is not perfect. So I decided to build one myself,” says Lazarus, who also created Molori Private Retreats after earning his fortune in the oil business. BELOW The five-cabin Benetti – completely redesigned by The interior of Told U So Lazarus – features a master suite with private spa features a blend of antique and contemporary furnishings. and walk-in closets, a blend of antique and contemporary furnishings, state-of-the-art RIGHT technology and enough space that all 10 guests can Kirk Lazarus’ superyacht, Told U be in separate areas at the same time. So, was designed by the entrepreneur himself to suit his “What we’ve designed is basically something for luxury lifestyle. my lifestyle,” Lazarus says. “We can do completely

74 DECEMBER 2013 HAUTE

MEN AT WORK EVENT Ermenegildo Zegna 50th Wool Trophy Exhibition WHERE IFC Mall, Central

HAPPENINGS: After a grand celebration of its 50th Wool Trophy in Sydney this year, Italian luxury brand Ermenegildo Zegna moved the party to Hong Kong with a special three-day exhibition at IFC Mall. High-profile guests flocked to the cocktail launch, including Golden Horse Awards Best Actor nominees Tony Leung Ka-fai and Nick Cheung, and an array of dapper gents, such as famed architect Andre Fu, barrister and charity founder Brandon Chau and businessman Leonard Chao. While sipping Champagne and indulging in hors d’oeuvres, guests also got a first look at the Wool Trophy 2013 Limited Edition Capsule Collection. By Joanne Lam

Tony Leung and Zegna CEO Enzo D’Alessandro take a close look at the quality of the fabric #stylescmp

Reggie Li-Kwok and Ronald Kwok

I can’t wait to see Nick Cheung suited OVERHEARD up in person. I adore him! Andre Fu Evan Chow and Jacqueline Liu

CHIC CHAT with Brandon Chau You look great. Tell us about your suit tonight. I’m wearing a smoking jacket by Zegna. I like that it’s simple and elegant and I can dress it up or down. My shoes are also by Zegna. I think they’re really elegant.

What makes a good suit? Most of my suits are tailor-made. I wear them all the time and maybe one day I’ll pass them on to my children.

How is your charity going? Pretty good. We had a fund-raising concert recently by famous pianist Warren Lee. We managed to raise enough funds for the next two years.

Do you plan to hold more concerts in the future? I think classical concert s are a good idea. We are a local charity and we hope to promote local talent. Also, classical concerts are inspiring for Hong Kong teenagers because they don’t often get the chance to go to one. Leonard Chao and Candice Chao

76 DECEMBER 2013 KNOTS OF FUN EVENT Bottega Veneta Flagship Store Re-opening Celebration WHERE The Landmark, Central

HAPPENINGS: Italian luxury fashion house Bottega Veneta flew in its veteran craftswomen to celebrate the reopening of its flagship store in Central’s Landmark mall, spanning more than 4,000 sq ft. Part of the store was transformed into a replicate of the brand’s atelier. Artisans demonstrated Bottega’s signature intrecciato – leather weaving technique – on the spot. Obviously, the technique showcase was for guests’ eyes only. They were asked not to take pictures or videos. They were encouraged, however, to add a personal touch on their purchases by having their initials stitched onto the bags and clutches. We spotted a handful of tai tais deciding which crocodile-skin letters to use on their arm candies. Bag snobs went all gaga at a limited-edition classic Knot bag, featuring a special knot handcrafted in 18ct gold and paved diamonds. We caught up with guests including model Janet Ma, fashion designer Bonita Model Janet Ma adds a touch of softness to her all-black Cheung, socialite Eleanor Morris and Zhang Zixuan, director of fashion education at Tsinghua University, ensemble with a pastel bag #stylescmp who flew in from Beijing. By Vivian Chen

Bonita Cheung Denise Lau Sue Lynn-Hwa

It’s too bad they won’t allow us to take videos. Think if I watch them long OVERHEARD enough I’ll be able to memorise the technique? Michelle Tam and Tony Luk

CHIC CHAT with Eleanor Morris You must be very familiar with Italy, even your superstar daughter Karen Mok got married in Italy. Every time I go to Rome, I’m happy to see all the ancient artefacts scattered around town. However, I’m sad at the same time because they aren’t being well preserved.

Do you think Italian culture and craftsmanship are well received in Hong Kong? I admire Alessandra Schiavo (consul general of Italy) for bringing the works of legendary artists, such as Sandro Botticelli’s Venus, to Hong Kong. She’s set a great example [in promoting Italian cul- ture in Hong Kong].

Do you have any preference in bags? I’m really fussy with bags. I’m not a fan of “it” bags. I look for style and functionality.

Will Karen be working over Christmas? How does your family celebrate? We used to have big family gatherings, but now many members have moved overseas. Work is important for Karen and I don’t want to put any pressure on her. Mira Yeh

DECEMBER 2013 77 HAUTE

ROARING PARTY EVENT Salvatore Ferragamo store opening and party WHERE Mandarin Oriental, Central

HAPPENINGS: It wouldn’t be a grand opening in Hong Kong without a lion dance. Folks at Salvatore Fer- ragamo created unique lion dance costumes made from its silk scarves for the reopening of its revamped Central store. It’s been an eventful year for the Italian fashion house. Ferragamo family members and executives travelled to the city for the special event. The store, spanning more than 3,200 sq ft, offers the brand’s full line of products. Taiwanese actress Michelle Chen officiated at the opening and continued to party at Ozone. The hip bar at the Ritz-Carlton was lavishly decorated with fresh flower panels. An exhibition featuring photos of ce- lebrity fans wearing Vara shoes was on show. The brand has launched a made-to-order service for its classic Vara shoes to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the iconic style. By Vivian Chen Taiwanese actress Tiffany Hsu gets into party mode at The lion dance costumes were made from Ferragamo scarves. Ozone after the store opening #stylescmp

Jenny Wong

I wonder what they’ll do with the lion costumes after this opening. James Ferragamo and OVERHEARD Zhang Zilin I bet they will have expansion plans on the mainland.

CHIC CHAT with Michelle Chen Tell us your off-duty style. When I’m working, I usually need to dress up, so I love wearing something comfortable and relaxed on my day off. I also love retro vintage style.

Salvatore Ferragamo has launched its MTO for Vara shoes. What would your dream shoes look like? I love colour blocking. I picked a fuchsia pair and I think a metallic version would be cool too.

Are you going away for Christmas? I will be working. I’m filming a new adaptation of The Return of the Condor Heroes.

Ever since news broke that you were set to play the ethereal Xiaolongnü, you’ve been criticised by the novel’s fans. (From left) Anina Ho, Leonardo Ferragamo I’m not bothered and I don’t get stressed. I focus on getting my job done. and Jocelyn Luko

78 DECEMBER 2013 SHANGHAI SURPRISE EVENT Valentino Flagship Store Grand Opening WHERE IAPM, Shanghai

HAPPENINGS: Valentino opened its first flagship store in Shanghai with a bang. The two-storey shop, designed by famous architect David Chipperfield, is the luxury fashion house’s largest flagship store outside Milan. CEO Stefano Sassi, creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli flew in for the grand opening. We spotted celebrities from Hong Kong, the mainland and Taipei, including actresses Carina Lau, Zhang Ziyi and Chen Luyu. Lau was especially excited as the brand donated part of the sales from its Collection Shanghai to the TLC charity she co-founded with actor husband Tony Leung Chiu-wai. After the store opening, the stylish pack swarmed Shanghai Port International Cruise Terminal for an exclusive fashion presentation. By Vivian Chen

Jet-setting actress Zhang Ziyi (centre) parties with friends Wyman Wong and Hilary Tsui #stylescmp

Carina Lau Du Juan

Ni Ni Carlos Souza and Yue Sai Kan Han Zhang and Niki Chow

DECEMBER 2013 79 HAUTE

DAZZLING CHAPTER EVENT Van Cleef & Arpels Pierres de Caractère Gala Dinner WHERE The Grand Ballroom, Grand Hyatt

HAPPENINGS: Van Cleef & Arpels continues to dazzle with its annual Pierres de Caractère collections. This year, the legendary jewellery maison added a new chapter to the collection, entitled Pierres de Caractère – Variations. To celebrate, president and CEO Nicolas Bos hosted a special gala dinner during which the new collection was unveiled. VIP guests, including actresses Zhang Jingchu and Jennifer Tse, fashion designer Barney Cheng, and supermodels Bonnie Chen and Du Juan, enjoyed a meal specially created by three-Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Renaut. By Joanne Lam

Zhang Jingchu

Hot mummy Anne Wang Liu dazzles in a mint evening gown and a feminine updo #stylescmp

Olivia Lee Davies and Jennifer Tse

Stephen and Deborah Hung Yumi Honda

I want to wear the entire collection and look OVERHEARD in the mirror all day long. It’s gorgeous!

CHIC CHAT with Bonnie Chen You look great tonight. Can you tell us about the jewellery you are wearing? It’s an interesting piece. I especially love the coral in this necklace.

Do you have any jewellery styling tips? Less is more. To pull off complicated and expensive stones, you need to dress simply and elegantly. The colour [of your clothes] should not overwhelm your jewellery.

How do you like Hong Kong? I used to work in Hong Kong before I went to New York. I’m familiar with the location, food and people. It’s almost like coming home.

Tell us about your Christmas plans. I’m going to Thailand. I’ll be spending three days in Bangkok and three days in Koh Samui.

80 DECEMBER 2013 ILLUMINATING EVENING EVENT Boucheron Hôtel de la Lumière collection preview WHERE Galerie Perrotin, Central

HAPPENINGS: Although it was her first trip to Hong Kong, French fine jeweller Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne didn’t have much time to see the city. She was kept busy with client appointments, consulting her on high jewellery and bespoke projects. At the preview cocktail, Choisne showcased the latest haute joaillerie inspired by the brand’s atelier in Place Vendôme alongside heritage pieces from its archive. The collection, inspired by the play of light and shadow, boasts a series of organic designs crafted in precious stones. To demonstrate the design process, Choisne prepared sketches and 3D paper models for bespoke projects. By Vivian Chen

Supermodel Kathy Chow, rocking an Alexander McQueen gown, plays the magician’s helper for a moment #stylescmp

(From left) Jacqueline Liu, Amy Wong and Tina Tse

May Lee and Linda Chang (From left) Lilian Lee, Jenny Chau, Anina Ho and Bonnie Li

Actually these origami dummy necklaces have their OVERHEARD advantages – light, easy to wear and eco-friendly.

CHIC CHAT with Claire Choisne Do you see an increase in bespoke orders? Yes, because I think it’s what defines luxury – to have something exclusive to yourself.

Can you tell me about an impressive bespoke order you recently commissioned? I recently did a piece for a beautiful client who has refined tastes. Seeing her wear the piece [gave me a great sense of satisfaction].

We saw a few pieces in the collection that can be worn different ways. In the Boucheron archive, you can see a lot of pieces like this. For example, a tiara doubles as a necklace.

How does contemporary lifestyle inspire your designs? I guess it comes out naturally because the design team and I are living in this modern world. For example, today I’m stacking two swan rings together. It’s something different. Karen Borda Antonia Li

DECEMBER 2013 81 RESOURCES WHERE TO GET IT

Alexander Wang Cartier Lanvin Savelli G105, Gateway Arcade, Shop G09-15, Landmark Prince’s, Shop 235, Pacific Place, Available at Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Central Admiralty www.savelli-geneve.com 2118 2552 8105 5008 2523 9512 www.alexanderwang.com www.cartier.com www.lanvin.com Tess Giberson Available at Armani Casa Celine Louis Vuitton www.tessgiberson.com 1/F, 111Leighton Road, Shop G3-5, Landmark mall, Central G/F, Shop 7-17, Landmark mall, Lee Gardens, Causeway Bay 2525 1281 Central Valentino 2882 2239 www.celine.com 8100 1182 Shop 112, Lee Gardens, www.armanicasa.com www.louisvuitton.com Causeway Bay Chanel 2907 2332 Baccarat G/F, Lee Gardens, Causeway Bay Louvre Gallery www.valentino.com Shop 2008-9, Podium Level 2, 2576 0696 Shop B, LG/F, Ruttonjee IFC Mall, Central www.chanel.com Centre,11Duddell Street, Van Cleef & Arpels 2526 8800 Central, Shop 326, Pacific Place, www.baccarat.hk Chopard 2526 8400 Admiralty Shop 2045, IFC Mall, Central www.louvre.com.hk 2918 1661 Balenciaga 2805 0777 www.vancleefarpels.com Shop 1021, Elements mall, www.chopard.com Piaget Tsim Sha Tsui Shop G13, Lee Gardens Two, Vertu 2673 0618 Giorgio Armani Causeway Bay Shop 2080, IFC Mall, Central www.balenciaga.com Shop G101, 7-25 Canton Road, 2808 0252 2295 3118 Tsim Sha Tsui, www.piaget.com.hk www.vertu.com Bang & Olufsen 2956 2123 Shop 2008-9, Podium Level 2, www.armani.com Prada Visionnaire IFC Mall, Central Shop G4, Landmark Alexandra, Available at Louvre Gallery 2526 8800 Gucci Central www.bang-olufsen.com 15 Queen’s Road Central 2522 2989 Wellendorff 2524 4492 www.prada.com Shop 2063, IFC Mall, Central Boca do lobo www.gucci.com 2540 1028 Available at www.bocadolobo.com Ralph Lauren www.wellendorff.com Hermès Shop G1-G3, Ground Floor, Boucheron Shop 02-04, Lee Gardens, Landmark Prince’s, Central Central Building, 3 Pedder Street, Causeway Bay 2871 9338 Central 2907 2974 ralphlaurenhome.com 2147 9908 www.hermes.com www.boucheron.com Saint Laurent Jimmy Choo Shop G3, Landmark Alexandra, Bulgari Shop G8, Landmark mall, Central Central Shop 2041, IFC Mall, Central 2525 6068 2868 0092 2234 7668 www.jimmychoo.com www.ysl.com www.bulgari.com Lalique Salvatore Ferragamo Burberry M1, 13 Duddell Street, Central Shop 2067-2069, IFC Mall, Shop 101 & 201, Pacific Place, 2259 6641 Central Admiralty www.lalique.com 2234 7388 2918 4022 www.ferragamo.com hk.burberry.com

84 DECEMBER 2013