U.S., EuropeThe Media GiantsInside: Pg. 13 FEDERATED POSTS PROFIT/3 MAX AZRIA’S MASS LOOK/10 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 17, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear Cool, Calm And Crisp NEW YORK — What woman doesn’t love a little sportiness? Alberta Ferretti went in that direction for resort, showing a country-club chic collection full of the simple and feminine, as this charming cotton shirtdress illustrates. For more resort, see page 8.

Takeover Battle Looms For Valentino Group As Permira Buys Stake By Luisa Zargani MILAN — Valentino Fashion Group has a new investor — but the bidding battle could have just begun. Confirming a WWD report, private equity fund Permira has acquired 29.6 percent of VFG from the Marzotto family’s International Capital Growth Sarl for 782.6 million euros, or $1.06 billion at current exchange. Permira, which was supported in the deal by merchant bank Mediobanca, Unigroup and Citibank, said it is interested in increasing its stake in VFG by buying additional shares at the same per- share price of 35 euros, or $47.60. The See Bidding, Page 9 PHOTO BY DAN LECCA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Alberta Ferretti went sport for resort with nautical chic meets campy- ™ 8 prep, while at Akris, Albert Kriemler showed an architectural inclination. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Private equity fund Permira has taken control of 29.6 percent of 1 Valentino Fashion Group, inking a deal with International Capital Growth. BUYER — AND SELLER — BEWARE Amid sluggish sales and concerns about the economy, Federated hit Where Consumers Levy Blame For Sub-par Apparel 3 earnings targets for the fi rst quarter and sees improving trends. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said it had acquired a majority stake Mother's Day has come and gone and the founder of Rebecca and Drew Manufacturing, 3 in Wen Jun Distillery, a Chinese maker of premium white spirits. returns are coming in, particularly if that blouse an entrepreneurial fashion company. “You have to concentrate on the fit; look at the quality of the Emilio Pucci was a fashion innovator and the design house he founded, or sweater you so carefully chose for Mom did not now owned by LVMH, is recapping 60 years of innovation. survive the first washing or wearing. But fear not, fabric and be aware of what you are paying for.” 6 Mom is more likely to levy blame on the manufacturer The most common apparel complaint among BEAT: Carrefour unveiled its Tex by Max Azria contemporary collection or retailer of the garment. The consumers was poor construction. 10 slated for August delivery at 718 locations in Europe. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle According to the Monitor, one in Monitor™reveals that as women two female respondents stated EYE age, they increasingly hold that she had bought an item of This week’s parties made art students out of the social set, from the manufacturers and retailers clothing in the past year that was 16 ICP’s Infi nity Awards to the American Ballet Theatre’s Spring Gala. responsible for poor quality poorly sewn. “When consumers Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 apparel. In this age of disposable take the time to perform their fashion, the solution, of course, due diligence when shopping, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. is to look for well-constructed they will be a lot happier with the [email protected], using the individual’s name. apparel in the first place. garment that they are buying,” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Matchett insists. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. According to the Lifestyle VOLUME 193, NO. 105. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Monitor™, older consumers were “Basically, you should be able additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three to turn a garment inside out and additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance more likely to point their fingers Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by at the retailers of garments that fell have it look just as finished on the Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive inside as outside,” advises designer Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human apart after a single wash or wear. Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail In the 56 to 70 demographic, 63 Lauren Moffatt. “Some features of Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return percent of respondents claimed beautifully made clothes are bias- undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: “There is no doubt that the more SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA they would blame the store. The bound seams, French seams, blind 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE experienced consumer considers percentage decreases with the age of hems, kick pleats instead of slits, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit herself educated in spotting a www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new the respondent: 61 percent (aged 35 and very tiny stitching.” subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production quality garment and she will hold to 55); 46 percent (aged 25 to 34) “I love for garments to look as correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, the retailer or the manufacturer please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other and 39 percent (aged 16 to 24). good on the inside as the outside,” Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Consumers also held accountable when it proves inferior.” agrees Jodi Arnold, principal and available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. — Kim Kitchings, If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA manufacturers accountable for creative director of Mint Jodi 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Cotton Incorporated Arnold, a contemporary design OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, sub-par apparel, though without BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED the direct correlation between collection. “I prefer all seams to MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR be bound in a lightweight lining or fabric; zipper CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR increasing age and increased likelihood of faulting DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY the retailer. In fact, younger consumers showed quality is also important.” A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. a greater inclination to hold the manufacturer “If seams are finished properly on the inside, responsible: 48 percent of women aged 16 to 24; garments will last longer and generally hang better,” and 51percent of women aged 25 to 34. explains Cho from Inhabit. As she ages, a woman is increasingly likely to look Quality also stems from choice of fiber, adds In Brief for and choose quality over trend. According to the Matchett. “There is a premium in terms of fabric. Monitor, two out of three female respondents aged 55 For example, we only use high quality cotton ● SAKS NAMES EXECS: Saks Fifth Avenue has promoted and older said that and add a small Caroline Dougherty, vice president of special events, to vice they would rather Who would you hold responsible if you purchased a amount of president of public relations and special events. She will have buy clothing stretch for the responsibility for women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and that is higher in shirt and it fell apart after it was worn for the first time? best feel and cosmetics. Before joining Saks in 2004, Dougherty held simi- quality. Younger appearance.” lar posts at Club Monaco, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany. Michael 16 to 14 25 to 34 35-55 56-70 Macko, vice president and men’s fashion director, has been consumers, Matchett is Retailer 39% 46% 61% 63% appointed vice president of p.r. and special events, and men’s namely female speaking to the fashion director. He also covers the home area. Macko joined respondents aged Manufacturer 48% 51% 42% 40% market, as six Saks in 1996 as a publicity manager and earlier was p.r. man- 16 to 24 (58 out of 10 female ager for Neiman Marcus in Short Hills, N.J. Dougherty and percent), were respondents told Macko are taking on responsibilities held by Andree Corroon, more likely to favor what was currently in fashion the Monitor that they were willing to pay more for who resigned. over quality. However, by the next demographic natural fibers such as cotton. ● NEW PARLUX CEO: Parlux Fragrances Inc. has named Neil increment, 25 to 34, young women showed an A level of quality and satisfaction should also J. Katz, the firm’s interim chief executive for the past three increased interest in quality, at a level similar to the be implicit in the overall retail experience when months, to the post of chairman and ceo. The fi rm also promot- older — and wiser — counterparts. shopping for apparel, asserts Dr. Robert Passikoff, ed Raymond Balsys, who was vice president of fi nance, to chief “There is no doubt that the more experienced founder of Brand Keys, a research consultancy fi nancial offi cer. “In an effort to segregate duties,” said Katz consumer considers herself educated in spotting specializing in customer loyalty. “Today’s shopper in a statement, “Frank A. Buttacavoli, executive vice president a quality garment and she will definitely hold is looking for convenience and customer service. and chief operating offi cer, will give up the title of chief fi nan- the retailer or the manufacturer accountable She has to trust that should she be dissatisfied, cial offi cer. Prior to working as vice president of fi nance, Balsys served as vice president, comptroller of Parlux from 1994 to when it proves inferior,” says Kim Kitchings, the return process will be quick, efficient and 1997. Speaking about his own appointment and his plans for director of global supply chain planning at Cotton pleasant, or she will not shop there again.” the future, Katz said, “A key priority will be to add a number of Incorporated. “Her expectations increase as she Across the board, attention to detail resonates licenses, which will fuel our sales growth. We will also stress ages; she wants to trust the places she shops and with designers and apparel end-users alike. Whether the development of our core fragrance businesses by strength- she holds them to a high standard.” buying a garment for yourself or as a gift, keeping an ening our relationships with existing licensors.” Choosing quality over trend makes good sense eye out for quality will insure many happy returns of when buying apparel, says Susie Cho, creative the day, rather than the garment. ● TRUCKS FROM MEXICO STALLED: The House passed a bill This story is one in a series of articles based on find- that will delay a pilot program the Bush administration sought director of Inhabit, a chic knitwear collection. “You to launch this year that would allow Mexican trucks full access have to consider the individual, specifically, and ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ to U.S. highways. The House voted 411-3 on Tuesday to approve look for something that works for both body shape tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these the program, but set criteria that must be met before it can be and lifestyle, versus just buying what’s hot for the pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it launched. The criteria include setting up a panel to evaluate moment. Not every trend works for every person.” relates to the American consumer and her attitudes the project and obtaining certification from the inspector gen- There are other criteria to keep in mind. and behavior regarding clothing, eral that safety and inspection requirements have been met. “Don’t assume that a designer name or label appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Under the current system, Mexican trucks must transfer their ensures quality,” cautions Rebecca Matchett, co- many other timely, relevant subjects. cargo, including billions of dollars worth of apparel annually, to U.S. truckers that haul the loads to final destinations. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 3 WWD.COM LVMH Takes Stake in Chinese Distillery Federated Reverses Loss, By Miles Socha fi rst transaction. or $1.3 billion, on a sales gain of Arnault created the joint fund 13 percent to 2.99 billion euros, PARIS — Bernard Arnault is in with his Groupe Arnault family or $4.04 billion. a spending mood — but not for holding, the one poised to jointly Sales in Mainland China Posts $36M in Earnings fashion. invest 22 million euros, or $29.8 represent only 3 percent of the On Wednesday, LVMH Moët million, in Belle International LVMH total, but growth rates By David Moin er and the economic environ- Hennessy Louis Vuitton said it Holdings Ltd., a giant Chinese there last year were close to 50 ment, we remain optimistic that had acquired a majority stake shoe retailer. Meanwhile, LVMH percent, the company said. At mid sluggish sales and con- our trends will improve, particu- in Wen Jun Distillery, a Chinese recently acknowledged it’s look- present, LVMH operates some 50 Acerns about the economy, larly in the back half of the year maker of premium white spirits, ing to acquire a 20 percent stake stores in China for such brands Federated Department Stores as we reach the fi rst anniversary for an undisclosed sum. in Hidesign, a leather goods as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, hit its earnings targets for the of the Macy’s brand conversion,” The acquisition comes on the maker in India. Givenchy, Celine and Sephora. first quarter ended May 5 and Lundgren said. heels of Arnault-led investments The acquisition of a 55 per- Wen Jun, located in Qionglai in sees improving trends in the With that in mind, Federated in a Chinese shoe retailer, an cent stake in Wen Jun, along southwest China, has been mak- second half. reiterated its full-year 2007 Indian leather goods maker with plans to develop a portfolio ing white spirits for more than The $27 billion Federated, earnings guidance of $2.45 to and the hypermarket operator of premium products based on 450 years. The clear, potent liquor which will change its corporate $2.60 per diluted share from Carrefour — suggesting the busi- its heritage, suggests Arnault is is consumed with meals, often as name to Macy’s pending share- continuing operations, exclud- ness titan is now placing his bets keen to advance LVMH’s leading an alternative to beer, and is typi- holder approval at Friday’s ing merger costs. on emerging markets and real position in China, where, he re- cally consumed at family, social annual meeting in Cincinnati, The second quarter may still estate, rather than reinventing cently said, it is “head and shoul- and business occasions. plans to boost advertising to be diffi cult. Federated lowered more luxury brands. (For more ders” above the competition in Wen Jun’s parent company, draw greater traffic to the its sales forecast slightly to $6 on Carrefour, see page 10.) several business divisions. Jiannanchun, retains a 45 per- new, but lagging, Macy’s stores billion to $6.1 billion, compared Reports also surfaced LVMH already boasts more cent stake in the distillery. that were converted from for- with previous guidance of $6.1 Wednesday that Arnault and than 50 percent market share Jiannanchun is the third-largest mer May doors. Television ads billion to $6.2 billion. On a same- Belgian fi nancier Albert Frère are in premium cognac with its spirits producer in China with and intensified promotion of store basis, the company expects among members of a consortium Hennessy brand, which has annual revenues of $313 million. home categories — currently second-quarter sales to be fl at to eyeing the Italian-owned real es- been sold in China since 1859, Meanwhile, sources close to Federated’s weakest business up 2 percent, versus prior guid- tate fi rm Cogedim, which special- and its wines and spirits divi- Arnault said he is keenly interest- — are on the agenda. ance of up 1.5 to 2.5 percent. izes in upmarket commercial and sion posted revenue growth of ed in real estate, as he was early in Net income for the quarter EPS, excluding merger integra- residential properties. An Arnault more than 40 percent last year his career, along with funds, such came to $36 million, versus a tion costs, are now expected to spokesman had no comment. on the mainland. as hedge funds. Having recently loss of $52 million a year ago. be in the range of 35 to 45 cents, Last year, Arnault and Frère China, Russia and the U.S. opened a luxury hotel under the Diluted earnings per share from compared with previous guid- teamed up to acquire mainly are considered development Cheval Blanc name at Courcheval, European companies via a new priorities for LVMH’s lucrative he is said to be mulling the possi- fund of 1 billion euros, or $1.35 wines and spirits division, which bility of opening more branches, billion at current exchange, but saw 2006 operating profi ts jump possibly in Saint-Tropez, but a While April has given us some concern they have yet to announce their 11 percent to 962 million euros, fi nal decision has yet to be made. “about the consumer and the economic environment, we remain optimistic that Shelli Segal Exiting Liz Claiborne our trends will improve, particularly in the back half of the year. NEW YORK — Shelli Segal has on Monday at the company’s of- A look from Laundry ” called it a day at Liz Claiborne. fi ces here. — Terry J. Lundgren, Federated Department Stores The founding designer of by Shelli Segal. The news comes just two Laundry by Shelli Segal has months after Liz said it would left the company, according to close three Laundry by Shelli a statement from Claiborne, the Segal stores — one here, and two continuing operations were 11 ance of 40 to 45 cents. apparel giant that acquired the in California. The plan is to exit cents, versus a loss of 13 cents. Karen Hoguet, Federated’s brand in 1999. Laundry retail to focus on the Excluding May merger integra- executive vice president and Segal, who couldn’t be wholesale division, according to tion costs of $36 million, earn- chief fi nancial offi cer, said dur- reached for comment on the $4.99 billion Claiborne. ings per share were 16 cents ing a conference call that last Wednesday, has been replaced Laundry by Shelli Segal and operating income was $244 quarter Federated’s sales were at the fi rm by Trish Westcoat launched in 1988 as a California million. best online, at Bloomingdale’s Pound, creative director and lifestyle-inspired contemporary A year ago, the company and at Macy’s legacy doors. She chief merchandising officer sportswear collection that even- posted EPS of 1 cent and $149 said business was stronger in of contemporary brands at tually expanded to include day million in operating income, ex- February and March compared Claiborne. Under Westcoat and evening dresses. With the cluding $129 million in integra- with April, which was weak in Pound’s direction, the com- addition of footwear, handbags, tion costs. apparel at both May and Macy’s pany will change the name of accessories and outerwear, Sales totaled $5.92 billion, legacy doors. Specifically, the brand to Laundry by Design the Laundry by Shelli Segal down 0.2 percent from $5.93 bil- dresses, juniors, handbags, Dresses. The new brand also brand can be found at retailers lion last year. Federated was shoes, young men’s, contempo- will come with a different de- such as Neiman Marcus, Saks hoping for $6 billion to $6.1 bil- rary ready-to-wear in women’s sign direction, logos and packag- Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and lion in sales. Same-store sales and men’s, luggage and mat- ing. The company has scheduled ning a “mock New Year’s Eve” Bloomingdale’s. were up 0.6 percent. tresses were the strongest cat- a holiday relaunch and is plan- party to reintroduce the product — Julee Greenberg The recurring gross margin egories; furniture, traditional rate for the fi rst quarter of 2007 and moderate sportswear and was 39.8 percent, compared structured career looks fared with 38.8 percent in the year-ago poorly. quarter. Bloomingdale’s, coming Cividino Named President at Adampluseve “Sales in the quarter were off openings in downtown soft, particularly in April. For San Francisco, South Coast By Julee Greenberg the company. In addition, she principal investor is Compagnie the quarter as a whole, we were Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will oversee day-to-day sales, Financière Richemont SA. pleased with sales in the lega- San Diego and Chestnut Hill, dampluseve, the four-year- operations, merchandising, Their fi rst investments included cy Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s Mass., in the past nine months, Aold luxury basics and con- product management, market- the adampluseve brand. Sources stores,” Terry J. Lundgren, appears poised for additional temporary sportswear brand, ing, advertising and business said Atelier paid about $9 mil- Federated’s chairman, presi- openings. “We feel very good has named Claudia Cividino as development functions. lion for a 49 percent stake in dent and chief executive offi cer, about Bloomingdale’s expan- president. This is a new post at “We interviewed a lot of peo- the brand, an investment that said in a statement. “However, sion potential and those plans the company. ple and we’ve grown so much will help to grow wholesale and sales in the new Macy’s loca- could develop over the next Cividino will join the fi rm on in the past three years so I re- freestanding retail businesses tions were disappointing in the six to 12 months,” said Hoguet. May 29 from Yves Saint Laurent, ally wanted to make sure we worldwide. quarter. In spite of weak sales, Bloomingdale’s could enter where she has held the title brought someone in who can The brand launched in spring we achieved strong gross mar- Texas and Arizona, among other of vice president and director move us forward,” Lippes said. 2004 as a high-end underwear gin results and reduction in parts of the country where the of retail since 1999. Cividino “Claudia has great international and T-shirt label for women and expense as a percent to sales. 38-unit upscale chain does not brings extensive experience in experience and great retail ex- men. Since then, adampluseve We are on track to deliver at operate. Bloomingdale’s has the fashion industry, having also perience, which are two major has evolved into a complete least $450 million in annual been increasing its designer of- worked at Barneys New York for factors that we were looking for sportswear collection. The line expense savings as a result of ferings and upscale marketing, six years and, prior to that, at when considering moving the is available in more than 200 the May Company acquisition,” and two years ago discontinued Ferragamo. adampluseve brand forward.” better department and special- which took place two years ago coupons. At adampluseve, Cividino Cividino will report to ty stores, including Bergdorf and led to the conversion of According to a wire report, will work as a partner with the Lippes. Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks 400 former May doors to Macy’s Investor Carl Icahn recently brand’s founder, creative direc- In February, Marty Wikstrom Fifth Avenue and Holt Renfrew, last September. There are now sold off his stake in Federated. tor and chief executive offi cer, and Dawn Mello joined forces in eight countries. The collection about 850 Macy’s stores. He previously held 6.8 million Adam Lippes, to develop and to create an investment vehicle also is available on the brand’s “While April has given us shares, or 1.3 percent of the implement a strategic vision for called The Atelier Fund, whose Web site, adampluseve.com. some concern about the consum- company. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 WWD.COM Industry Lobbyists Hit Capital Yurman Among SCAD Honorees ATLANTA — Jewelry designer David Yurman, Bergdorf For NRF Leadership Meeting Goodman fashion director Linda Fargo and Town & Country editor in chief Pamela Fiori were honored last Thursday at the Style Etoile gala of the Savannah By Kristi Ellis NRF group Tuesday and is a lead College of Art and Design here. The event kicked off Bush administration negotiator with SCAD’s second annual style and design week, featur- WASHINGTON — Executives from Congress on the immigration bill. ing, among others, designer Cynthia Rowley and Andy Federated Department Stores Inc., Gap “We are trying to fi nd a balance,” Spade, chief executive officer of Kate Spade. Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Neiman Gutierrez said after the speech. “We The honorees all spoke about the evolution of Marcus fanned out across Capitol Hill need something workable, something fashion and luxury. Wednesday to lobby on pending legisla- that is reliable, something that is tech- “There’s been a loosening of the luxury lifestyle tion, including a mandatory employer nologically proven and something that and, God knows, it needed it,” Fiori said. “Today, luxu- verification system for immigration sta- doesn’t put employers or workers at a ry is no longer represented by a stiff family portrait in David Yurman and Pamela Fiori, tus and tax breaks for small businesses disadvantage or in an unfair position.” a formal living room. It’s a casually dressed, blended editor in chief of Town & Country. linked to a minimum wage increase. Gutierrez said employers and the family, in a room fi lled with digital photography [and] More than 150 government affairs business community should not be ex- Chinese art. It’s part West Elm and part Paris fl ea market. ” officials from major retailers, inde- pected to serve as the “immigration po- Fargo said the luxury market had yet to peak, and Yurman pendent specialty store owners and lice.” Retailers also expressed concern said Fargo and Fiori were examples of the ideal of the modern representatives of state retail asso- that Congress could impose user fees on woman. “They’re smart, real, they travel, shop. They work hard ciations met here for the National employers and lower the liability stan- in a smart way,” he said. Retail Federation’s annual Washington dard under which employers could be Atlanta philanthropists Judy and Michael Mauldin, and SCAD Leadership Conference Monday penalized for hiring illegal immigrants. alumnus Santiago Barberi Gonzalez, president of Nancy Gonzalez through Wednesday. Another key issue is House-passed designer accessories, were honorary chairmen of the event. Among the priorities for retailers legislation that would make it easier Proceeds from the $300-per-ticket Style Etoile Gala benefi t the who conferred with some 70 lawmakers for unions to organize workers. The SCAD Style Scholarship, which allows one student from both SCAD- was a legislative proposal to make an bill would mandate the recognition of Atlanta and the Savannah location to study at the SCAD-Lacoste employer verifi cation system for illegal a union if a majority of employees sign campus in Provence, France. immigrants mandatory in a bill that is authorization cards, known as a “card The week culminates with Saturday in Savannah, featuring the being debated in Congress. check” system, without giving employers annual student fashion show. Vogue editor at large André Leon The Department of Homeland the option of a closed-ballot election. It Linda Fargo, fashion Talley and SCAD president Paula S. Wallace will present Marc Security has a voluntary basic pilot veri- would also strengthen the penalties for director, Bergdorf Jacobs with the André Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement award. fi cation program in place, but retailers employers who try to strong-arm work- Goodman. — Georgia Lee said it is inadequately funded and often ers seeking to organize by imposing civil produces false negatives that would fi nes of as much as $20,000 per violation. make it diffi cult to ramp up as a manda- President Bush has vowed to veto it. tory program covering millions of work- Sen. Ben Nelson (D., Neb.), who ers. The Senate could take up an immi- briefed the NRF group, said the card- gration bill next week that would make check bill “might come up [in the Big Names Pitch In for MLK Dream Concert the electronic verifi cation program man- Senate] in June, but there are not 60 datory and applicable to all employees. votes” [which the Democrats need to ommy Hilfiger, Russell Simmons, Quincy Jones, Joel Horowitz, David Stern and “We’re very concerned about the avoid a Republican fi libuster] “so it TEdgar Bronfman Jr. will spearhead a concert on Sept. 18 to benefit the building of [employer verifi cation] provision, par- isn’t going to go anywhere this year.” the Martin Luther King Jr. National Memorial on the National Mall in Washington, D.C. ticularly the retroactive provision,” Retailers also planned to discuss the The Dream Concert is expected to be a gathering of all-star musicians, although the which would force retailers to check the minimum wage and tax-incentive pack- roster has yet to be fi nalized. Grammy Award-winning songwriters and record produc- legal status of every employee through age tied to a controversial war funding ers Jimmy Jam and Terry Lewis will serve as artistic directors, while Muhammad Ali, an electronic system, said Steve Pfi ster, bill because the tax breaks for small Angela Bassett, Jamie Foxx, Whoopi Goldberg, Cuba Gooding Jr., Michael Jordan, Magic the NRF’s senior vice president of gov- businesses have been significantly Johnson, Kerry Washington and former New York Mayor David Dinkins are on the host ernment relations. “New employee ver- scaled back in a House-passed bill. The committee. The Dream Concert will be held at Radio City Music Hall in New York. ifi cation is one thing, but when you are Senate version is in fl ux. The Memorial Foundation has already raised $79 million of the $100 million talking about retailers with a workforce Trade was another high priority for needed to complete and maintain the memorial, and the event will help secure the of 20 to 22 million people, retroactively retailers, who are focusing on moves additional funds. Last November, President George W. Bush, former president Bill verifying every employee with onerous such as imposing countervailing duties Clinton, Oprah Winfrey, Sen. Barack Obama and Rev. Jesse Jackson participated in penalties attached, we don’t think that’s on China and the potential for further the ceremonial groundbreaking of the memorial. the way to go.” quotas on Chinese apparel and textile King’s Memorial, situated adjacent to the F.D.R. Memorial and in a direct line be- Retailers appear to have the back- imports, as well as measures like an an- tween the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials, is scheduled to be completed in 2008. ing of Commerce Secretary Carlos tidumping monitoring program for ap- — Lisa Lockwood Gutierrez, who gave a speech to the parel and textile imports from Vietnam. Rick Owens Earns National Design Award NEW YORK — In years past, the National Design Award for Fashion has tended to go to designers who aren’t afraid to go off the beaten path, and Rick Owens, this year’s winner, is no exception. The Paris-based, Southern California-bred designer will pick up the prize from the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum at its annual gala on Oct. 18. In addition to designing a signature collection, Owens is artistic director for the A Rick French fur house Revillon. He beat out Phillip Lim and Narciso Rodriguez for this Owens year’s fashion award, the latter a three-time fi nalist. runway While the NDA is in its eighth year, fashion only became a category in 2003, when look. Tom Ford took home the top prize. Save for him, the annual honor has favored more Antoine Predock’s Arizona Science Center. away-from-the-fray designers including Maria Cornejo, Yeohlee Teng and the hus- band-and-wife team of Isabel and Ruben Toledo. The Offi ce dA-designed Owens, the 2002 CFDA Perry Ellis award winner for emerging talent, is known Harvard Graduate for his glamour-meets-Goth designs and unpredictable initiatives. He recently School of Design. teamed up with underground director Bruce LaBruce to place his designs in an upcoming horror fl ick. This fall, while the Paris ready-to-wear runway shows are under way, his furniture collection will be shown at Jousse Enterprise gallery. “My look is about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst,” Owens has said. Established to promote excellence in design, the NDA will also recognize book jacket designer Chip Kidd for communications design; the Boston-based fi rm Offi ce dA for architecture design; Lewis.Tsurumaki.Lewis for interior design; Peter Walker for landscape design; Apple Inc.’s Jonathan Ive for product design; Adobe Systems Inc. for corporate achievement, and Venturi, Scott and Brown Assoc. for design mind. In addition, a lifetime achievement award will be presented to ar- chitect Antoine Predock and a special jury commendation will be given to author Francis D.K. Ching. For the fi rst time, this year’s NDA jury will discuss how they decided on the winners at a roundtable tonight at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum. Teng and Tim Gunn, Liz Claiborne’s new chief creative director, are among the jury members. Target will once again sponsor the NDA, as well as the second annual National Design Week, Oct. 14 to 20. — Rosemary Feitelberg OWENS PHOTO BY DAN LECCA; ARIZONA BY TIMOTHY HUURSLEY AND HARVARD BY NADER TEHRANI BY TIMOTHY DAN LECCA; HUURSLEY AND HARVARD OWENS PHOTO BY ARIZONA BY Work it.

WWDMAGIC brings buyers the best selection of women’s apparel, for dress-up days, casual days, and every day in between.

We are the fashion industry. This is your moment to shine.

Join us, August 27 – 30, 2007 Las Vegas Convention Center and Las Vegas Hilton www.MAGIConline.com 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 Pucci’s 60 Colorful Years FLORENCE — Emilio Pucci was a man of many faces — a womanizer with fine manners, Spring he flew torpedo missions in World War II, trav- 2004. eled the globe and excelled at sports. But, above all, he was a fashion innovator. And the design house he founded, which is now owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is recapping 60 years of innovation this year. The festivities begin on Saturday when the late designer’s daughter, Laudomia Pucci, co- hosts a dinner at Palazzo Pucci with Delphine Arnault (her father, Bernard, couldn’t attend). Guests expected include Kylie Minogue, Elizabeth Hurley, Prince and Princess Michael of Kent and Gilles and Luziah Hennessy. Pucci-esque beams will rev up the façade of the 14th-century palazzo and guests will be greeted by two installations: one by Gerard Cholot that consists of colorful miniature hot air balloons and the other a re-creation of Pucci’s store inside the palace in the Fifties. On Sunday, at Il Granaiolo, the family’s country estate on the Florentine hills designed by Gae Aulenti in the Seventies, a lunch will Pucci’s jersey be served to celebrate the launch of Vivara, dresses, Pucci’s fi rst fragrance in decades. Though the 1977. house would give few details, a jellyfi sh in- spired the translucent bottle and top. He had a problem with “anything that didn’t exalt Braniff International stewardesses a women’s femininity. inin PucciPucci uniforms,uniforms, 1965.1965. Minimalism, black and power dressing weren’t up his alley. ” — Laudomia Pucci

The celebrations come even though the Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento never expected to be a designer — but fashion be- came both a mission and vision for him. Born in Naples in 1914 to Orazio Pucci and Augusta Pavoncelli, Pucci was dubbed the “Prince of Prints” thanks to his vivid graphics, light- weight silks, jerseys and stretch fabrics. “Pucci started Italian ready-to-wear in 1947, when Italy was living a postwar renaissance based on fashion and fi lm,” said Jaqueline Ceresoli, who teaches fashion history at the fashion and design school IED and at Milan’s Politecnico. “He represented all the Italian codes that the Americans thrived for: more accessible prices compared to couture, color, quality, innovative fabrics and craftsmanship. Not to mention his noble roots.” Laudomia Pucci painted a similar picture of her father, who died in 1992 at age 78. “The historical period is funda- Laudomia mental for my dad’s success,” she noted. “No one really Pucci talks about the Fifties, but they were the strongest years in Italy from the movies on. They summarize the story of people that had survived the war and lived through any- thing. They were happy to start up again. It was an explo- sion of youth, towed by America and its Marshall Plan.” Pucci’s endless variations on the print theme de- Emilio Pucci fi ts a model, 1953. rived from his many journeys to Bali, India and Africa, where he drew from nature and architecture. “He loved a woman’s body, his inspiration was the archi- The designer’s geometric tecture of a woman’s body,” recalled his daughter. “Fittings stockings, 1969. with him were delirious, because if a shoulder or hem were half a centimeter off, he tore the dress and restarted.” His roster of famous clients certainly knew that. When Marilyn Monroe spied an intricately printed, waist-defi ning blouse in a store window in Los Angeles, she bought it and wore it braless. The sex symbol counted some 25 Pucci pieces in her personal wardrobe, which fetched more than $500,000 when Christie’s auctioned them off in 1999. Lauren Bacall was photographed in printed sheaths hanging out with Humphrey Bogart and Ernest Hemingway, while Jackie Kennedy ordered a Pucci maternity dress when she was preg- nant with John Junior. Jacqueline Susann owned 30 silk jersey dresses, while Princess Irene Galitzine bought 19 Pucci shirts and 21 pairs of slacks. But if the designer carefully thought out every detail of his collections, his initial foray into fashion was accidental. An avid skier, in 1947 Pucci designed his own ski ensemble — sleek tapered pants and a hooded parka — that was shot by Harper’s Bazaar photographer Toni Frissell in Zermatt, Pucci Switzerland. Frissell asked him to design more and the following year the images ran in takes to the magazine. Subsequently, Lord & Taylor commissioned Pucci to design an exclusive ski the sea. collection for the store. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 7 WWD.COM

“He started out of necessity. Fall Before the war the family was 2007. quite well off, but after the war, they had nothing and my dad was jobless. He lived off his aviator of- fi cer salary,” said Laudomia. In 1949, while on military leave in Capri, Pucci noticed his jet-set friends had few apparel choices for the resort. So he came up with an easy fashion mix of brightly colored blouses over matching Capri pants. “His fi rst looks were stiff and sturdy, sort of mannish, because dad knew his closet and military clothes,” said Laudomia. In 1950, the designer opened a store in Capri called La Canzone del Mare (“The sea’s song”), where tony tourists could buy his resort- perfect getups: straw hats, pedal pushers and open-toed sandals. In the beginning, Pucci’s label was simply “Emilio” out of respect for his aristocratic heritage, since his family would frown on having a fashion designer in its midst. “I am the fi rst member of my family to work in a thousand years,” Pucci Pucci and once told Life magazine. In 1951, he held his fi rst fashion show in Florence with other Italian designers

HIVES a model in Capri, such as Fabiani, Shubert, Sorelle Fontana and Jole Veneziani. Lord & Taylor, Saks 1955. Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Marshall Field’s all wrote orders. In 1954, he introduced the famed silk jersey dress. The designer — who during his lifetime mingled with the likes of Malcolm Forbes, Baron Thyssen, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Prince Charles and Lady Diana and Jackie Kennedy — had found a formula that melded color, sensuality and innovation via languid dresses, sexy swimwear and palazzo pants. In 1955 and for the next decade, Pucci continued to innovate with prints inspired by the Palio of Siena, Moorish mosaic designs and Africa, and NASA- inspired elasticized materials. In its glory days in the Sixties, more than 200 workers worked at the company’s headquarters inside Palazzo Pucci, while scores of women sewed from home. But as the Seventies began, Pucci’s colorful world started to fade. Fewer women bought the bold, swirling prints and Saks Fifth Avenue dropped the line in 1978. To make matters worse, Milan supplanted Florence as Italy’s fashion capital and fashion became more corporate. For a man who called himself an artisanal tailor, chatted with Andy Warhol at parties and was hopeless at putting a price list togeth- er, the change was drastic. “There was a new generation of women. It was after 1968 [the student’s revolution in Europe], jeans and [women’s] libera- tion,” said Laudomia. “My father understood that period, he had no complex to a strong woman, but the result of that liberated woman was not his woman. He had a problem with anything that didn’t exalt a women’s femininity. Minimalism, black and power dressing weren’t up his alley.” Pucci stayed in Florence and veered toward soft- er tone-on-tone combinations, beadings and ball- gowns with a nod to couture. Upon his death in 1992, Laudomia Pucci rolled up her printed sleeves to make sure her father’s brand would prosper. While the Nicole

▲ brand retained many fans, things remained diffi cult Kidman in Pucci and Sienna Miller and, fi nally, in February 2000, Laudomia Pucci sold 67 Pucci at friend on in spring 2007 percent of the company to LVMH. Cannes, the slopes, Pucci. That wouldn’t stop the turmoil, however. In April of 2003. SPRING 2004 AND FALL 2007 PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; WILLIAMSON BY STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THE EMILIO PUCCI ARC STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS COURTESY GIANNONI; WILLIAMSON BY GIOVANNI 2007 PHOTOS BY SPRING 2004 AND FALL 1948. that year, Catherine Vautrin, a Louis Vuitton veteran, joined Pucci as chief executive offi cer and tapped Julio Espada as creative director. He would last two Pucci years before being replaced by Christian Lacroix. designer After several hit-and-miss collections, Lacroix Matthew stepped aside when LVMH sold his eponymous Williamson. house and was replaced by Matthew Williamson in October 2005. Williamson so far has had mixed suc- cess and has yet to establish a fi rm imprint at Pucci. Vautrin left as ceo in March and was replaced by Didier Drouet as general manager. But while LVMH doesn’t break out results for Pucci, the brand is said to be profi table and industry sources estimate it has annual sales of about 60 mil- lion euros, or $81.6 million. This is about four times the level of revenues in the year 2000. Pucci current- ly has 31 stores worldwide. In 2005, Pucci went back to its ski roots with a licensing agreement with Skis Rossignol SA for skiwear and just signed with Marchon for eyewear. Over the past three years, the brand has actively embarked on one-off stints, including special packaging for Veuve Clicquot Champagne, colorful tights with Wolford, an Adidas sneaker, ink pens by Omas and color cosmetics with Guerlain. Despite having sold a majority of the company, Laudomia Pucci remains involved in the business, from editing color charts to pro- posing archival prints, from checking out the competition to chart- ing retail growth. And she is optimistic Pucci is on the right path for growth. “The management, which has always been very clear on why we are doing something or why we’re not, thinks I have a view and I know the customers,” she said. “I like prints but I like solids,” Pucci continued. “What we’re doing today, though not clearly understood by the American press, is very clever. We hadn’t seen black and white at Pucci for some time, and I think that for spring Matthew did it in a modern way with silver. It’s The Capri store today. the Pucci DNA brought into today. It’s sexy, young, fun and chic.” — Alessandra Ilari 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 WWD.COM Sport and Simple Akris NEW YORK — “I am particularly interested in presenting a fresh, feminine and modern approach to resort dressing,” said Alberta Ferretti after her Tuesday cruise show. She accomplished just that by taking a sporty, yet soft, approach to the season with a nautical-meets- camp motif, i.e., slouchy collared shirts, cool pleated shorts and boxy peajackets — many accented with preppy striped belts. Still, plenty of delicate evening dresses were to be had, this time with a light — and just right — sprinkling of beading. At Akris on Wednesday, Albert Kriemler showed an architectural collection with, for instance, a contoured dress in green suede for day and a blue Swiss embroidered number with a geometric-cut neckline for evening. He added a touch of sportiness with double-collared silk jackets, oversize cashmere sweaters and tissue-weight cashmere tops.

Alberta Ferretti

Akris

Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti Akris PHOTOS BY DAN LECCA AND TALAYA CENTENO DAN LECCA AND TALAYA PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 9 WWD.COM Bidding War Possible for Valentino Continued from page one Suites at the Hotel Eden and the Hotel de Russie al- deal values all of VFG at almost 2.7 billion euros, or Speculation ready have been booked and, in a recent W interview, $3.7 billion. continues as to Giammetti said this was going to be “the best event in But the deal Wednesday immediately stirred a wave whether designer the history of fashion.” of speculation over the future of the group, which owns Valentino Marzotto is said to have been searching for a de- Valentino SpA, a majority stake in Hugo Boss AG and Garavani will signer to replace Valentino for the last two years but men’s wear brand Lebole, and holds licensing deals for retire this year. has been unable to identify a suitable candidate. While M Missoni and Marlboro Classics. Permira had been Valentino remains committed and fully involved in the locked in a bidding battle with private equity fund design of his collections, he also is renowned for his Carlyle Group, which had linked with VFG chairman extravagant lifestyle and beautifully decorated homes. Antonio Favrin and his company, Canova Partecipazioni In fact, the cost of this lifestyle was said to be a stick- Srl, to buy the Marzotto family stake. Canova owns 20 ing point during the negotiations with Marzotto when percent of VFG. it was acquiring the design house, since there were ru- Carlyle offi cials declined comment Wednesday on mors the designer and Giammetti were trying to wring their next move, but sources told WWD it remains in from Marzotto the same perks they were accustomed to talks with VFG shareholders and still could mount its under HdP, although that was always denied by the par- own offer for control of the group. A source close to ties involved. the company said the bidding could go as high as When asked last week if the designer’s possible re- 50 euros, or $67.65, a share. tirement could affect the choice of a buyer, Stefano Despite selling a 29.5 percent stake, the Sassi, VFG’s ceo, said that, while his strong contribu- Marzottos control almost 24 percent of VFG tion was undeniable, it would be “limiting to measure through two other financial companies: the strength of the group on one person.” A spokeswom- Gaetano Marzotto and a number of other Antonio an for Valentino himself and Giammetti did not return family members control Tidus Srl, which Favrin phone calls requesting comment on Wednesday’s deal. owns 12.43 percent of VFG, while Paolo While some retailers in the U.S. and Europe said the Marzotto’s PFC Srl controls almost 11 per- label needed updating, most praised Valentino’s style. cent of the group. (Offi cially, PFC controls Ann Stordahl, executive vice president of women’s 7.45 percent of the shares, but a source close apparel at Neiman Marcus, said, “Valentino is one of to the situation said the amount reaches almost our most important businesses in our couture area and 11 percent when other family members are taken we carry it in most of our strong, couture stores. We into account.) have just opened a boutique in Houston, and one in San A well-placed source here said Favrin fi rst had tried Francisco and Boca Raton [Fla.] — we will also be open- to convince the Marzottos to sell VFG, in which Favrin’s ing a boutique in Los Angeles. We also carry Valentino Canova owns 18.78 percent. However, according to the furs and Valentino Roma.” source, Favrin and his partner in the Canova company, Another U.S. retailer, who requested anonymity, said Dario Segre, subsequently bypassed the Marzottos and the brand has been performing well. teamed up with Carlyle to secure management positions “[Valentino] is one of the best designers for wom- in the group, while at the same time negotiating a fee of en’s wear and his collections make any woman beauti- 18 million euros, or $24.5 million, for initiating a Carlyle ful,” said Michele Giglio, owner of seven boutiques in purchase of VFG. Palermo, Italy. Giglio said he’d seen improvements in “This really irked the family, who went back to the quality after Marzotto took over the brand, especial- Permira, an initial bidder, to cut out Carlyle and ly over the past two years. Canova,” said the source. “Permira was willing to buy Toni Tanfani, owner of two Gisa stores in central the Canova shares, but there was a rough meeting be- Italy, said “the quality, the class and the style” of the tween the parties and the deal fell apart.” brand remain “excellent,” but said it needs “to be re- Favrin’s future at VFG remains uncertain. One newed and modernized.” source said he is likely to depart. “He might stay on as a One European retailer, who spoke on condition of transition, but when the new owners take control, they’ll anonymity, said the brand “is not performing in a bril- have him out,” said the source. liant way,” and it is not contemporary enough. “It’s lost Whether the Marzottos retain their shareholding its appeal and needs a new design input.” also remains to be seen. “There is no real affection for will continue to manage the group. But while the designer’s clout on the fashion world VFG because the family was forced into creating it, the “The Marzottos have sold the business and none of is unique, his business remains small compared with spin-off — the division between the textile and fashion them was in a management position,” said the source, that of Hugo Boss. A source said the “draw of the businesses were Favrin’s ideas, not the Marzottos,” said noting that operating decisions are all made by Favrin, Valentino brand only marginally affected” the desir- a source. In 2005, Marzotto spun off Valentino, a control- although Matteo Marzotto was president of Valentino ability of the deal. SpA. “That’s one of the reasons [Michele] Norsa left, be- The lion’s share of VFG’s sales comes from Hugo cause he was closer to the Marzottos and was in Favrin’s Boss AG, despite the consistent growth of the Valentino What interests us the most is way — he was not a yes-man,” said the source. brand. In March, VFG posted year-end revenues of 1.96 “ Norsa was Valentino’s former chief executive of- billion euros, or $2.46 billion, a 13.6 percent increase the future of the company. It’s fi cer and is now in the same position at Salvatore compared with the previous year. Hugo Boss had sales Ferragamo. of 1.5 billion euros, or $1.8 billion, a 14.2 percent in- a magnifi cent company that has The source speculated that Permira will buy either crease compared with 2005. Sales at Valentino rose 14.5 the Canova shares and then submit a tender offer, or percent last year, to 239.5 million euros, or $301.7 mil- been built over many years. both the Canova and Tidus shares. The source said lion. Marlboro Classics and M Missoni reported com- ” Carlyle’s original intention was to buy the Canova and bined sales of 293.3 million euros, or $369.6 million, a — Gaetano Marzotto ICG shares at the same time, before problems arose be- 10.1 percent increase. Dollar fi gures have been convert- tween Segre and the Marzottos. ed from the euro at average exchange rates. The prize appears to be Hugo Boss, VFG’s cash cow, Some highlights of last year underscored by manage- ling stake in Hugo Boss and other clothing assets into rather than the much smaller Valentino brand. But ment last week during a shareholders meeting included the new VFG, listing it on the Milan stock exchange. the Permira deal — and any other subsequent battle a 25 percent increase in sales at the Valentino couture Approached on the sidelines of the Pitti Uomo press — marks the fourth change in ownership of Valentino division and a 34 percent growth in shoes and accesso- conference in Milan on Wednesday, president of Pitti since 1998, when the designer and his business part- ries, accounting for 20 percent of sales. Immagine Gaetano Marzotto said he was taking a wait- ner, Giancarlo Giammetti, sold the company to the One fi nancial source said VFG exemplifi es a private and-see approach to developments. “Everything is open now-defunct Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali for equity fund takeover target. “It’s their job to identify right now,” he said. $233 million, three times the house’s direct revenues. companies that are politically unstable or torn by in- When asked if Permira had approached Tidus or The sale marked the fi rst association between fashion ternal tensions, and play each party against the other,” made a bid for its shares, Marzotto declined to talk and fi nance at the time, and was an emotional moment said the source, noting how Bahrain-based investment specifi cs. “We have contact, but we have no idea what as the designer shed tears at the announcement of the bank Investcorp operated in order to win Gucci in the kind of propositions will arise,” he said. “What inter- preliminary agreement. Valentino and Giammetti held Nineties, initially putting heir Maurizio Gucci against ests us the most is the future of the company. It’s a mag- minority stakes in HdP and seats on its board. the family, then executive Domenico De Sole against nifi cent company that has been built over many years. Valentino languished in the red under HdP, however, Maurizio. “The goal is to fi nd underperforming brands We’re evaluating — with the small [ownership] we have which also owned the once-mighty GFT manufacturing or fi rms in an industry that works well and maximize — what the best step is for the company and its collabo- company. Marzotto bought the designer company in 2002 profits over a three-to-five-year period,” said the rators.” for $210 million (including Valentino’s net debt of $179.2 source. He noted that a generational shift took place when million), putting the designer under contract. Marzotto, While Favrin as late as last week dismissed any Pietro Marzotto left the company in 2003 [when he was which started out as a woolen mill in 1836, made its fi rst squabbles between shareholders, the Marzottos — a pushed out by a new shareholders pact established by fashion foray when it bought Hugo Boss in 1991. Hugo large clan of siblings, cousins, grandsons and nephews members of the family]. Marzotto said his family consid- Boss offi cials declined to comment Wednesday on the — are known for their recurring feuds. ers VFG a long-term strategic investment, whereas other sale to Permira. Permira is the latest private equity fund to enter the investors view the company as a short-term money-mak- The designer, who turned 75 last week, is set to mark fashion industry — a lucrative sector that is increasing- ing opportunity. “Our approach is different,” he said. his 45th anniversary in fashion in Rome July 6 to 8, and ly appealing to cash-rich investors. Last year, London- One Milan-based source said Permira is still trying to there continues to be speculation he will use the occa- based private equity group Change Capital bought Jil buy the Canova shares and then launch a tender offer. sion to retire. The designer will host a retrospective Sander from Prada Group and TowerBrook Capital “The issue, however, is not the equity structure but who installation on the Friday evening inside the Richard Partners took control of Jimmy Choo in February. will manage the company, and that depends on who is Meier-designed Ara Pacis Museum. — With contributions by Courtney Colavita, behind this whole operation,” said the source, who be- On July 7, Valentino will present his fall couture Milan, and Vicki Young and lieves it is Favrin who spearheaded the deal and who show, and later that night, will host a black-tie dinner. Sharon Edelson, New York 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Carrefour’s Big Plans for Tex by Max Azria By Miles Socha percent stake in the retailer. José Maria Folache, Carrefour’s general manager for PARIS — Millions of European women will soon come into Europe (excluding France), noted that only one in fi ve contact with designs by Max Azria — at prices not much Carrefour shoppers purchases apparel in its aisles, a higher than a bottle of Champagne or a baked ham. ratio it aims to increase with Azria’s contemporary and Carrefour, the world’s second-largest retailer after mostly casual styles, which range from lantern-sleeved Wal-Mart, unveiled its new Tex by Max Azria collection, cardigans and tailored coats to low-slung jeans and a contemporary line slated for August delivery at 718 lo- fringed suede boots. In the fi rst quarter, sales of nonfood cations in Europe and designed to help ignite the retail items rose 0.4 percent at Carrefour. giant’s nonfood business. The giant retailer’s aim is to bolster “pleasure-re- “We are going to reach a lot of women that are very lated purchases. This is our new strategy,” Folache said diffi cult to reach,” said an ebullient Azria, in town for during an informal press conference held on the middle a fashion show and launch event Tuesday night at the of the catwalk before the show. “We’re looking to convert Musée de l’Homme here. He was referring to the fact this brand into a full-fl edged fashion label.” that Carrefour stores in Europe are typically located on The Tex label has existed for 25 years at Carrefour, the outskirts of large cities or in smaller towns, giving and the retailer sells more than 75 million Tex items him unprecedented access to women, who make up 80 per year in France alone. But Azria’s mission was to percent of footfall at its stores, which totals 20 million make women’s styles more “fashion-oriented and sexy,” people daily. Folache said. The label, to be merchandised with spe- The Tex line initially will be sold in France, Greece, cial fi xtures, will be the main women’s ready-to-wear Spain, Belgium, Italy and Portugal, with the Carrefour- offering at Carrefour, which also carries such apparel Azria deal calling for a minimum guaranteed volume of brands as Levi’s, Dim, Terre de Marin and Auber. 1 billion euros, or $1.35 billion, through the end of 2011. Azria said the Tex line is aimed at a “contemporary Carrefour declined to specify its future rollout plan, type of woman, relatively ageless,” with an accent on casu- but it is understood the label will ultimately be expand- al styles and broad choices in accessories. Most items are ed to other doors in additional markets. There are 1,040 priced between 10 euros, or $13.50, and 40 euros, or $54. Carrefour units in the world, while the group operates But adding the right fashion touch was only part more than 12,000 stores in 29 countries. Carrefour re- of the equation. Folache noted that BCBG Max Azria cently has seen some turmoil with the departure of Group’s expertise in retailing and apparel manufactur- GOIZE FRANCOIS SHOW PHOTOS BY Looks from the fall-winter Tex by Max Azria collection, exclusive its chairman, Luc Vandevelde, and Bernard Arnault’s ing helped seal the deal. “Max has enabled us to gain to Carrefour. Groupe Arnault linking with Colony Capital to buy a 9.1 access to a complex, specialized business. We would never have been able to do it alone,” he said. mentum on other fronts. “It’s not just clothes; it’s scientifi c,” Azria agreed. In an interview, the Los Angeles-based designer “There’s the product on the one hand, and the technical disclosed plans to open 25 BCBG Max Azria stores aspects of the products.” in Europe this year, primarily in France, but also Azria said he’s employing a category management Switzerland and Belgium. business model for the Carrefour venture, which will BCBG’s European business should total $400 million streamline product fl ows and allow it to compete better over the next 12 months. Azria also said that in August against retailers such as Zara, which often has stores he will relaunch Alain Manoukian, the French sports- near Carrefour in suburban locations. wear fi rm his group acquired in 2005. Nameplates will The debut collection, spanning some 400 styles and be converted to Manoukian, with close to 100 stores, 1,000 stockkeeping units, has a polished bohemian vibe most of them in France, displaying a new decor, graph- and includes layers of soft knits, short dresses, tunic ics and colors. Azria also overhauled the Manoukian tops, oversize bags and a broad assortment of sweaters. design team and promised a collection that would be The most notable BCBG-inspired piece was a billowy “more affordable and more designer and value-priced. Carrefour’s knit cardigan wrap that has been seen in recent collec- “It was always my dream to sell a product at many prices, José Maria Max tions. Coming later in the season are major offerings of from $10 to $5,000 and be good at every one,” he said in an Folache. Azria denim, dresses and coats. interview. “French fries are good, but caviar is good, too.” Meanwhile, Azria’s business is enjoying strong mo- — With contributions from Emily Kafka

“I really wanted to introduce our products in Apparel, quilts and furniture a cozy, homey-like atmosphere,” she explained. from Alabama Chanin. “People can come in here, see the product and Chanin: Sweet Home Alabama have a glass of sweet tea and maybe even some Southern home cooking. It makes them feel like By Julee Greenberg they are in the South, where we came from.” The products have been handmade by 20 NATALIE CHANIN IS ON TO HER NEXT PROJECT. Alabama-based artisans, all of whom Chanin Chanin is the founding designer of Project Alabama, which launched in 2001 worked with during her time at Project Alabama. and closed last year despite critical acclaim from retailers and press. Last month, Each item a store orders will be one-of-a-kind Project Alabama relaunched without Chanin’s involvement, but with secured fi nan- and specially made for that store. Chanin’s array cial backing, a new production process in India and new design direction. of apparel samples, for example, are made in a Explaining her new venture in an interview while visiting New York this week, cream color to show the silhouette. When a buyer Chanin remained cautious about revealing her reasons for leaving Project Alabama be- places an order, he or she can then choose for the hind, but said simply, “I felt the company abandoned its original mission, so that’s why garment to be produced in a series of signature I started a new company called Alabama Chanin,” she explained. “In my mind, manu- organic cotton textile patterns — all of which are facturing in India and using techniques and designs that originated here just didn’t made by the Alabama artisans. The apparel col- make sense logistically, envi- lection wholesales from $90 for a T-shirt to $200 ronmentally or creatively.” for a dress. The jewelry, which is a collection of Alabama Chanin is set for gold and sterling silver bracelets, rings, necklac- a fall launch and encompass- es, pins and even belt buckles, starts at $200. The es apparel, jewelry, quilts, line of quilts, which are all reworked from vintage sculptures and even furniture. pieces, ranges from $350 to $600 and the furniture The brand, she said, is run starts at $200 for a chair and goes up to $3,000 for an armoire, made from recycled wood. the same way she ran Project The idea of Alabama Chanin is to produce an array of products, which not only Alabama — as an homage to support using recycled and sustainable materials, but keep manufacturing and jobs quilters and stitchers in her in the community. Chanin said she is “proving that locally produced, quality prod- hometown of Florence, Ala. ucts are viable, desirable and help connect us to our traditions.” “I felt it was necessary “I realize that our pieces are expensive for some stores,” she said. “But that’s to preserve these uniquely what makes them so special and unique.” American traditions be- The mix from Alabama While she has yet to meet with buyers, Chanin said she is targeting high-end cause so often what we wear Chanin at the l8f gallery. specialty stores like Barneys New York and Bergdorf Goodman. comes from places very far After her New York visit, Chanin will head back home to Florence, where she away, made by people who will start work on more products as well as fi nish her how-to book, called “The have no connection to our culture or our communities,” she explained. “It was my Alabama Stitch Book” (Stewart Tabori Chang), which will hit stores next spring. The goal with Project Alabama — and the cottage industry-style business that we built book shows how the artisans she uses work in a step-by-step process. near my home in Alabama — to preserve these traditions, to create jobs in America “Since many people cannot afford our products, this book will give people the and revive my region’s once-thriving textile industry.” opportunity to learn how they can do it themselves,” she said. “The book shares Today, Chanin is in New York showcasing her new products, which are being with readers our techniques, sewing tricks and actually provides 21 different pat- housed at the new l8f gallery at 213 Park Avenue South. The gallery is the fi rst terns and designs for some of our most popular garments.” space to introduce the full Alabama Chanin collection and will be open, mostly by In addition, Chanin has created a DIY section on the Web site, alabamachanin. appointment, through May 25. com, which allows visitors to download projects and instructions at no charge. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY M_dW9Wh[[hCWa[el[hA_j

H;=?IJ;H7J

H[]_ij[hWj\Wi^_edYWh[[hi$YecWdoj_c[\hecCWo'-j^je@kd['-j^WdZWkjecWj_YWbboX[ [dj[h[Z\ehWY^WdY[jem_ded[e\j^h[[9Wh[[hCWa[el[hA_ji$;WY^a_jm_bbYedjW_d fheZkYjiWdZi[hl_Y[i][Wh[Zje^[bf_d]oek\_dZWYWh[[h_d\Wi^_ed"h[jW_behX[Wkjo$

J>;FH;C?;HEDB?D;97H;;H9;DJ;HE<

DEFKH9>7I;D;9;II7HO$Je[dj[hWdZ\eh\kbbhkb[i"]ejemmm$\Wi^_edYWh[[hi$Yec%YWh[[hcWa[el[h$IjWhji'(0&'7C;J+%'-%&-WdZ[dZi''0+/FC;J,%'-%&-$Ef[djeb[]Wbh[i_Z[djie\ j^[+&Kd_j[ZIjWj[i%:$9$'.ehebZ[h"[nY[fj[cfbeo[[ie\IfediehiWdZ_cc[Z_Wj[\Wc_b_[i$EZZie\m_dd_d]Z[f[dZedj^[dkcX[he\[djh_[ih[Y[_l[Z$Le_Zekji_Z[j^[+&Kd_j[ZIjWj[i% :$9$WdZm^[h[fhe^_X_j[Z$7$H$L$e\fh_p[--&$Ifediehi0(*I[l[d"'(&Meeij[hIj"*j^Sandra Oh, who plays Cristina Yang in “Grey’s Anatomy,” will rector Tomas Maier, who has been be wearing a bridal gown from Amsale on tonight’s season fi nale, when coming to Tokyo for about 25 years she marries Isaiah Washington’s character, Dr. Preston Burke. The dress is and still looks forward to explor- a strapless beaded Chantilly lace and satin trumpet gown, with beading ing the city, whether it’s scouting on the hemline and a chapel-length train. Amsale isn’t new to “Grey’s for ceramic bowls and cutlery or Anatomy” — this is her second season fi nale of the popular ABC series. just enjoying the modernist lines Last year, Izzie, played by Katherine Heigl, wore a dress from the designer’s of the Hotel Okura’s lobby. Party Collection. The bridal gown is carried at Saks Fifth Avenue. “On the one side there’s tra- dition and on the other side you DOWN THE HOMESTRETCH: Hermès is about to give equestrian fans have this…urge for [what’s] next. something to look forward to beyond the Preakness and the Kentucky That is also what makes the city Derby. Hermès USA chief Robert Chavez is planning an extravaganza so interesting to all of us to have for the June 21 opening of the luxury house’s Broad Street store. both of those elements in one After checking out the Rena Dumas-designed 4,000-square-foot digs, place,” he said. revelers will make their way to a yet-to-be-named location, which will Maier, dapper in a three-piece be redesigned to look like 18th-century stables inspired by the ones at suit, and Bottega chief Patrizio Di Versailles and complete with French horsemen. Marco mingled with guests like Liz Goldwyn and models Ai Tominaga, FASHIONABLE FACIALS: After Anne Watanabe and Du Juan. Juan, teaming up with Zac Posen on clad in a sweet pink frock, just his fashion shows the last three wrapped the Pirelli calendar shoot years, Darphin is introducing its in Shanghai. She was next head- own facial designed for globe- ing to New York to appear in the trotting women and inspired by second anniversary issue of Vogue Posen himself. The company China. Other notables included introduced the Front Row Facial photographer Hiromix, who ap- at a lunch hosted by Posen peared in “Lost in Translation,” and Ivanka Trump at Bergdorf PHOTOS BY HIROAKI HORIGUCHI PHOTOS BY actress Kyoko Hasegawa and a Top: The Bottega Veneta in-store party. Above: Liz Goldwyn and Kyoko Goodman on Wednesday. Zani gaggle of Japanese fashion stylists Hasegawa, and Du Juan, Ai Tominaga, Tomas Maier and Anne Watanabe. Gugelmann, Katie Lee Joel, and editors. Below: The after party at an art gallery. Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss, Kelly

Actor Tsuyoshi Ihara looked the Bensimon, Marjorie Gubelmann MCMULLAN CO. NEIL RASMUS/PATRICK PHOTO BY part of a leading man in his sunglasses and striking white ensemble. Having worked beside Ken Watanabe, and Genevieve Jones attended. Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss, Zac Posen Anne’s father, in Clint Eastwood’s “Letters From Iwo Jima,” he’s now concentrating on his next acting proj- Posen said the facial is about and Ivanka Trump. ect, a remake of “Snatch” featuring plenty of Japanese mafi a fi ghts. It’s due for release later this year. “working out a routine, inner restoration and beauty.” Posen and Trump As the evening progressed, the pack moved from the store to the art gallery owned by one of Maier’s couldn’t wait to try out the treatment. Last week, Posen closed his studio friends. Bottega customized the space, so the duo could put the treatment to the test with a Darphin skin care well hidden in a residential neighbor- specialist. hood, right down to the woven leather throw pillows and intrecciato tumbler Debra START ME UP: Debra Messing already has glasses. Large prints of photographer Messing locked in another designer’s dress for Naoki Hatakeyama’s images of exploding Tuesday’s premiere in Los Angeles for “The rock adorned the walls of the gallery. Starter Wife,” but that didn’t deter her from Maier, still beaming the next day, was checking out Alberta Ferretti’s resort show enthused by the party’s high concentra- Tuesday in New York. “I have been able to tion of creative types. wear Alberta’s dresses for some of the most “This morning I woke up with a really important milestones of recent day,” the nice feeling about [the party],” he said, actress said. “And I will continue to ask her speaking from a suite in the Mandarin or beg her — whatever is necessary — to Oriental Tokyo overlooking the bustling wear them.” city and a vast sea of skyscrapers. “I like Messing plays the leading role in the USA people to meet people and I think this Network’s four-night, six-hour series about a was a good party for people to mingle.” woman redefi ning herself after being dumped

— Amanda Kaiser STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY by her Hollywood mogul husband. In real life, Messing is suffering from another kind of separation — a detached ligament on her right hand brought on by skiing.

DESIGN ON A DIME: Seventeen interior designers, including Jamie Drake Bread & Butter to Focus on Barcelona and Sills Huniford, have created room vignettes for this week’s “Design on a Dime” to benefi t Housing Works, a community-based AIDS service read & Butter will concentrate on its larger cord of 82,837 visitors. The Superior Area will organization. The event kicks off tonight with a benefi t at the Altman BBarcelona show and forgo the Berlin edi- be expanded, with new exhibitors, including Building, followed by a free two-day sale of home goods at consignment tion of its denim and contemporary streetwear Filippa K, Kors by Michael Kors and Justin store prices. All proceeds go to Housing Works. trade show in July. Timberlake’s William Rast label. “The shows in Berlin and Barcelona were The organizers also will unveil the Studio PUMA JUNGLE: Sculptural artist Federico Uribe has created a 3-D jungle like two horses that we sent into a race and concept that will showcase 40 new or relatively made entirely out of Puma sneakers. With the help of a single assistant, Barcelona won,” said Karl-Heinz Müller, man- unknown international talents. Bread & Butter Uribe spent 10 months disassembling 1,200 pairs of Puma shoes, aging director at Bread & Butter. is planning additional projects to be held on the primarily from the McQueen Last season’s event at the former power sta- grounds next to the Palacio Nacional. Details and Mihara collections, to tion in Berlin, known as BBB Kraftwerk, will will be announced July 5. build panthers, gorillas, birds, not be repeated. Although Kraftwerk cost Bread Müller presented the coming event at a press insects and their environment & Butter an estimated 1.2 million euros, or $1.6 conference this month on a rooftop terrace — an idea Uribe said he came million, Müller did not regret staging the event. overlooking Barcelona. Barcelona mayor Jordi up with himself. “The jungle “We all really enjoyed Kraftwerk and it was Hereu, who also spoke, welcomed the decision represents the predatory a good investment for our image because it and said the show brought in an estimated 80 condition of humans,” said showed how creative we can be. So we don’t re- million euros, or $108 million at current ex- the Columbia-born artist, gard it as money wasted,” he said, adding, how- change, to the city every season. who lives in Miami. “People ever, that hosting another show in Kraftwerk “But more important, still, is the internation- destroy animals to make was not fi nancially viable. al boost the event gives Barcelona as a creative, shoes, and I destroyed shoes The Puma exhibit by Federico Uribe. Bread & Butter Barcelona will be held from innovative city,” Hereu said in an interview. to make animals.” After a stint July 4 to 6. Although the number of exhibitors “Bread & Butter and Barcelona are a perfect at Art Basel in Miami in December, the exhibit opens to the public May has not been confi rmed, Müller predicted an match. It’s like a marriage. Admittedly, though, 22 at the Chelsea Art Museum in Manhattan, where it will stay through increase of 10 percent from last season and a marriage you have to work at sometimes.” Aug. 18. Some of the animals created also will be used in Puma’s expects a further increase on the January re- — Damien McGuinness international ad campaigns. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 13 WWD.COM Bigger seems to be better in the media world these days, from Rupert Murdoch’s $5 billion bid for Dow Jones Co. to Thomson Corp.’s $17.2 billion merger with Reuters. In its fi rst survey of top global media owners, London-based TheWWDList ZenithOptimedia ranks the world’s largest by 2005 media revenues, the latest fi gures available. Media revenues are defi ned as those “deriving from businesses that support advertising, which would include not only advertising revenues, but also other monies such as those earned via circulation sales for newspapers or magazines, for example,” said the report. Though many of those represented are media focused, others, such as General Electric, are conglomerates whose Giants of Communication media divisions are relatively minor players in their operations. And, though some companies in the overall rankings are privately held, such as Advance The top U.S. and European companies ranked by media revenues. Publications (owner of WWD), Hearst Corp. and Asahi Shimbun Co. (Japan), the top fi ve from both the U.S. and Europe are publicly traded fi rms. — Cecily Hall United States TIME WARNER Media revenues (2005): $29.8 billion Outdoing its closest competitor by $13 billion in media revenues is New York-based Time Warner. While its three TV subsidiaries, Warner Bros. Entertainment, Turner Broadcasting System and HBO continue to do relatively well, Time Warner’s Internet business, AOL, remains beleaguered, 1 as does its magazine division, Time Inc. The publisher of titles such as In Style, Time, People, Sports Illustrated and Fortune was forced to cut hundreds of jobs earlier this year as revenues slid. Time Inc. admitted it is pumping more investment into the Web versions of its titles than the print magazines. Time Inc.’s fi rst-quarter revenues fell $15 million from a year ago to $1 billion due to restructuring charges and declines at certain titles.

NEWS CORP. $16.7 billion What doesn’t Rupert Murdoch own — or want to own? Murdoch is in the news again as he tries to snap up Dow Jones Co., publisher of The Wall Street Journal, for $5 billion. He has been making the rounds to reassure Dow Jones shareholders the Journal would remain independent, although some 2 believe he could use Dow Jones to provide content for his upcoming business news channel. According to the report, more than 100 newspaper titles, including the New York Post and London’s The Sunday Times, fi ll the portfolio. TV properties include Fox Broadcasting Co., Fox News Channel, Fox Cable Networks and a stake in British Sky Broadcasting (see below). Now it’s big online, too, via its purchase of Intermix Media, owner of MySpace. GENERAL ELECTRIC $14.7 billion Founded originally as Edison Electric Light Co. by Thomas Alva Edison in 1878, GE is one of the largest companies in the world today and is run by Jeffrey Immelt. Though its portfolio consists mainly of industrial manufacturing, health care and fi nance, its division, NBC Universal, is a media and 3 entertainment powerhouse. The division was formed in 2004 when GE’s NBC operations merged with Vivendi Universal Entertainment. (Paris-based Vivendi remains a separate organization. See below.) The result? The NBC Network, MSNBC, CNBC, Telemundo, mun2, Bravo, Sci Fi, USA Network, and 12 channels in Europe and Latin America. NBC Universal also has an investment in ION Media Networks (formerly Paxson Communications).

CBS CORP. $13.4 billion The famed network has been taking a beating in the news lately, given its much ballyhooed recruitment of Katie Couric from the “Today” show to serve as its evening news anchor. But Couric remains in third place behind Charles Gibson of ABC and Brian Williams of NBC. Things have been better on the entertainment side with hit programs such as “CSI” and “Survivor.” CBS also has a small share in the CW Network, which is a joint 4 effort of both the former WB and UPN networks. In addition, the company owns Showtime, The Movie Channel and 39 local TV and radio stations, and its Outdoor division is the largest in North America, selling a range of displays, billboards, signs on public transportation and in-store kiosks.

WALT DISNEY COMPANY $13.2 billion Though Disney is probably best known for its theme parks worldwide, the report solely focused on its TV, radio, Internet and publishing businesses to derive its media revenue fi gure. Clearly, Disney’s largest media property is ABC. Popular shows that have kept the network afl oat as of late include 5 “Grey’s Anatomy” and “Dancing With the Stars,” while “World News With Charles Gibson” is the most-watched evening news show. In addition, Disney owns 80 percent of ESPN, the sports channel (along with ESPN the Magazine), and the Disney Channel, and is a partner in the Lifetime Network channels, A&E Television Networks and others. The group also owns radio and Internet properties. Europe

BERTELSMANN $9.6 billion Headquartered in Germany, Bertelsmann is composed of six divisions: Gruner + Jahr (newspapers and magazines), RTL Group (TV and radio stations in Europe), BMG (music), Arvato (printing, IT services, etc.), Random House (books) and DirectGroup (book and music clubs). Only two 1 of these — Gruner + Jahr and RTL Group — comprise the media revenues for this company. Gruner + Jahr, which pulled out of the U.S. market two years ago, boasts 150 magazine titles across 17 countries, along with fi ve newspapers in Germany. Bertelsmann is a private company majority owned by the Bertelsmann Foundation, with remaining shares held by the founding Bertelsmann and Mohn families.

BSKYB $6.8 billion The U.K. satellite TV company is a product of a 1990 merger between Sky Television and British Satellite Broadcasting. One of the most popular channels in the U.K., BSkyB has boosted its viewership via sports with rights to broadcast FA Premier League soccer matches. But it also operates several other channels in the U.K. and Ireland. This year, BSkyB is planning to launch a broader video-on-demand service for its 2 customers. Its Internet business is growing, especially after it made a bid in December for 365 Media Group, which runs a number of gambling and sports Web sites. News Corp. has a 38 percent stake in BSkyB, which is headed by ceo James Murdoch, the son of Rupert Murdoch.

VIVENDI $4.3 billion * After spinning off its movie studios, theme parks and cable networks to General Electric in April 2006, Paris-based Vivendi’s media revenues “derive from its ownership of the Canal+ Group, which owns a 65 percent stake in Canal+ France, the top pay-TV provider in France,” according 3 to the report. The company, which is run by chairman and ceo Jean-Bernard Levy, owns 18 television channels, including Canal+. At the end of 2005, Canal+ reported 5.1 million subscribers who had access to a wide range of programs, including fi lms, documentaries and French League 1 soccer matches.

MEDIASET $4.3 billion * Mediaset is one of the bases of power of former Italian prime minister Silvio Berlusconi, and the source of a lot of his fortune. Known as Italy’s largest private television broadcaster, Mediaset was founded by Berlusconi but today is run by his son, Pier, who is deputy chairman. The company is controlled by the Berlusconi family through the holding company Fininvest. Mediaset consists of several Italian networks, including Canale 5, which 4 produces shows such as “Grande Fratellos” (the Italian version of “Big Brother”) and “Delitti Imperfetti” (based on “CSI”). In 2002, the company acquired a major shareholding in Spanish broadcaster Telecinco. Mediaset also owns radio station R101 and an Internet portal, Mediaset.it.

TF1 $3.4 billion The French conglomerate’s television channel, Television Francaise 1, is the country’s most popular, according to ZenithOptimedia. TF1 also owns Eurosport, which broadcasts to approximately 109 million homes in 54 countries and features top sporting events such as the UEFA Cup and the 5 Motor Racing Grand Prix. TF1 also has interests in several other French channels, including a 9.9 percent stake in Canal+ France, which is the sole operator of satellite pay-TV in France. Patrick Le Lay is chairman and ceo.

SOURCE: ZENITHOPTIMEDIA, A GLOBAL MEDIA SERVICE RESEARCH AGENCY BASED IN LONDON; *INDICATES A TIE 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

CAD ARTIST/ Cheap Space for Rent Graphic Designer 8 minutes from NYC in Jersey City For well established NY based Heights. 10,000 S.F. @ $7.50 p.s.f. mens & boys co. Adobe Will sub-divide for multi-use. Pack and Ship Service Available. Illustrator 10.0 & Adobe Photo- Call 201-222-1931 or 718-619-9612 By Owner, Brokers Welcome shop 7.0 ISA must.Good sense of color needed. Great comm skills. Showrooms & Lofts Organizational and team work are BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail mandatory. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Please email resumes to [email protected]

Production & Sourcing Professionals Broadway Garment Center Infant/Toddler Division NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Home Decor Division AVAILABLE TO SHARE SaraMax has opptys for aggressive, Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 exp’d production and sourcing prof’ls in its Infant/Toddler and Children’s Sleepwear Div and its Home Decor (Kitchen/Beach) Div. Responsible for sourcing new factories, overseeing prod for Big Licensed Brands, and ASST DESIGNER DESIGN ASSISTANT maintaining relationships with over- Missy, Junior & Kids intimate / lounge seas partners (especially China, India, Leading better separates co seeks atech- Pakistan, Egypt & Brazil). Candidates nical, organized, motivated, accurate, fast wear co. seeks Design Asst with exp in intimate apparel. Duties include: sketch- must have exp in their respective paced go-getter. Must have 2 yrs exp work- textile line, ability to negotiate costing, ing w/China, drawing skills, spec, sketch, ing, communicating with factory, tech packs, lab dip approvals, Strong computer and knowledge of Quality Control teck packs & emb layouts. Great benefits. reqs for major U.S. retailers. Travel a Please fax or email resume to: skills in Illustrator & good color sense China Manufacturer a must. must. Computer literacy essential. (212) 302-3872 - ATTN: Natasha Email: [email protected]. Production and Sampling; Any styles; or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Excellent in quality, delivery & price. Include your area of expertise (Home Tel(646) 322-7139/[email protected] or Sleepwear) in subject line; DESIGNER ...... 80-100K Fax: 212-842-4236 EOE JR"S H/W Fang, BCBG BRAND DIRECTOR Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Production COLIBRI MEN’S ACCESSORIES [email protected] WOVEN PRODUCTION The Colibri Group, a leading sales & www.srisearch.com Design marketing co. of men’s and women’s PRODUCTION ASSISTANT TRACKER jewelry and accessories, lighters and KNITWEAR DESIGNER Eric Javits Inc located in Long Island Designer Josephine Chaus has an immediate PATTERN/SAMPLES clocks under the brand names Colibri, City seeks person w/ min 3-5 yrs exp to opportunity for a highly motivated individ- Krementz, Dolan Bullock and Seth ASSISTANT DESIGNER Magaschoni Apparel Group support all phases of overseas production. ual to track all aspects of woven garment Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Thomas is looking for a Colibri Men’s Product development and sourcing in work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Cutters & Sewers also needed Due to growth and expansion we are production at our NYC office. Resp. include Accessories Brand Director who will seeking candidates who must be ex- accessories a must. Key resp include maintaining work in process & production create brand objectives and strategies Fast paced women’s sportswear co. developing specs, measuring/evaluating seeks a super organized multi tasker tremely creative with high taste level, reports, tracking sample approvals, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, to meet corporate goals in terms of excellent sketching & technical abilities, samples, recording all styling changes processing L/C applications, communicating sales, volume, value, and market share with 2 years experience to work with and communicating them to factories. PRODUCTIONS designer on big private label projects. extensive knowledge of yarns and ma- w/Import, Sales, Distribution, factories to improve brand identity. Key man- chinery. Must be a self starter in a fast Computer proficiency (excel,word,outlook), & our foreign offices. Must have 2-3 yrs All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. dates will be defining the brand DNA Must have good knowledge of garment strong organizational and follow up Call Sherry 212-719-0622. construction, tech packs and attention paced environment who can assist in all experience, w/the ability to prioritize, and providing direction as it relates to fittings and communicate daily with skills a must. multi-task, work independently & within a distribution channels, product design to detail. Will follow up and supervise Email resume w/salary req to: sample making, source fabric and overseas office. Must have 4-6 yrs exp. team to accomplish goals. Solid PC skills, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and marketing materials to maximize ejavitsinc@aol.com including AS400 & Excel to produce various growth. Other duties include assessing trim, research trends. Excellent com- Fax or email resumes to: 509-757-7814 munication skills and Illustrator req’d. or [email protected] reports are required. We offer a competitive PRODUCTIONS market opportunities and analyzing salary & solid benefits package. For Full service shop to the trade. sales to optimize brand performance Please e-mail all resumes to: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] consideration, email resume w/salary as it relates to brand direction, strate- requirements to: [email protected]. gic partnerships, line extensions and Design Mgr to $125K. Current exp in Please type "WPT" in subject line. EOE. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD product mix; managing internal and PRODUCTION ASSISTANT www.JosephineChaus.com High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- external communications as it relates dealing with Disney or Nickelodeon li- DESIGNER • Denim censes & managing min 4 designers. Flora Nikrooz By Age Group sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 to the brands including PR, product Leading Intimate apparel co seeks Min briefs and marketing materials; and Major Denim Apparel Co. seeks exp’d. Jr. Direct fashion vision compliance with Project Mgr/ EDI $125K Denim Designer. with a minimum of 3 - 5 licensors. Mdtn. Jaralinc@comcast.net 3 yrs of experiences to make comment Examine data, run analysis on vendors Why wait for your samples partnering w/ Major Account Managers fit, specs and grading to overseas factory, and Product Development on account years experience in denim. E-mail resume sales & acctg. 8+yrs EDI exp a MUST from overseas? to Sari at: [email protected] pattern making exp & knowledge of [email protected] 212-947-3400 strategy and direction. This position garment sewing required. We can produce your samples NOW at requires 10+ years experience working a REASONABLE TIME and PRICE. PLEASE E-MAIL RESUME TO: in a brand focused marketing capacity; Designer [email protected] System Administrator: First Patterns / Samples / Size / Specs a Bachelors degree in advertising, Import Coordinator Call Dudam at DDS: 917-403-9124 or Fast paced, high energy, growing marketing, or public relations field, or Women’s Apparel Co seeks: Garment Manufacturer seeks a bright, Retail E-mail: [email protected] equivalent directly related work expe- detail-oriented Import person, responsi- Growing co. seeks indiv. to maintain rience, preferably in men’s fashion, CAD DESIGNER ble for billing, invoicing & tracking ship- point of sale system. Responsibilities incl.: setups, polling, report generation, jewelry, lighters, etc. MBA a plus. Stra- Min 4 - 5 yrs exp in Missy Sportswear ments. Must be proficient in Word & Excel. tegic and results oriented; creative, Chinese speaking a plus. Email resumes to: invoicing & working w/ store locations includes creating prints from bought PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & buying office. Retail Pro exp prefer- analytical w/ strong written and verbal art, create/recolor wovens, and design [email protected] Leading ladies apparel co. seeks ex- communication & presentation skills; red. Fax resume, incl. salary reqs. to: graphics for tee programs. perienced candidates for specing, smpl (646) 674-9352 able to prioritize and multi-task; Both positions must have experience approval & qlty control for private label. entrepreneurial leanings. If you have with U4ia, Photoshop, and Illustrator. Good communication & follow up skills. the qualifications and experience we Must be a self-starter, exp working in a PLEASE E-MAIL RESUME TO: Tech Designer/Design Asst need, and have the desire to be chal- IMPORT COORDINATOR Jr. & Plus size knit top & bttm Co. fast paced environment, able to meet [email protected] seeks exp. Technical Designer. Resp lenged and rewarded by working for a deadlines, and able to multi-task. Major Importer seeks an exp’d individual great co., please submit your resume to deal with imports, customs, & freight include: specing, sample comment & via e-mail, fax or regular mail to: Great opportunity for growth and issues. Candidates must be proficient full grading measurement. Candidate excellent benefits package. Email The Colibri Group with Microsoft Office. will also assist designers with sketch- resume:[email protected] or fax Email resume & salary requirements to: ing & preparing tech packages. Strong 100 Niantic Avenue resume: 212 827 3073 Attn: BM Providence, RI 02907 [email protected] comp. skills in Photoshop and Illust a Production Coordinator must. Fax resume to: 212-302-2669 Fax: (401) 946-0390 BILINGUAL Email: [email protected] Designer / Est’d Missy Sportswear importer seeks TECH DESIGNER Chinese/English detail-oriented prod’n Junior Sportswear Co. seeks candidate Freelance Designer LUXURY ITALIAN person. 5 yrs. exp. & excellent follow with 2-3 yrs exp. in trendy junior Buyer/Assistant Buyer Fast growing better contemporary co. up skills req’d. Walmart exp. a plus. looking for trend savvy, creative de- BOUTIQUE woven/knit tops & bottoms. Knowl- Major Long Island operation, Estelle’s Fax resume: (212) 302-5184 or Call Lisa: edge of woven/ knit garment construc- signer to head up divisions. Must have Known worldwide for our Women’s (212) 302-3744; E-mail [email protected] Dressy Dresses, seeks Buyer/Assistant Apparel, is currently accepting tion, graded specs & pattern making. Buyer. Must have ready to wear exp. knowledge of tech packs & specs. E-mail to [email protected] applications for: Must be detail oriented & organized w/ Very exceptional opportunity. Bene- good follow up skills. Review fits, spec fits. Call Marty or Liz at 631-420-0890, STORE MANAGEMENT garments & clearly communicate de- fax resume to 631-752-7785 or email tails to overseas factories. Excel skills [email protected] DESIGNERS In Our Bal Harbour, FL Boutique req’d. Knowledge of Adobe Illustrator MODERN AMERICAN DESIGNER We are seeking candidates with excellent PRODUCTION MGR a plus. Fax resume: 212-279-5929. has several positions available: interpersonal skills, superior customer **Apparel Importer/Manufacturer** Seeks a Production Manager to over- CONSOLIDATE YOUR COMPANY BUYER service standards, strong leadership Associate Designer skills & a highly developed sense of style. see apparel importing /manufacturing TECHNICAL DESIGNER Long established Bridge Dress Co. has a Men’s Outerwear with 5+ yrs exp. Must have knowledge beautiful new showroom/office space. Able to A min. of 3 years exp. req’d. For consid- Seeking a detail oriented, hard work- eration, please e-mail your resume to: in all production control steps, retail Magaschoni Apparel Group offer shipping and bookkeeping. Great opp. testing procedures, purchasing & cost- ing candidate w/ min. 3 yrs exp, skills Candidates must have strong sweater for a Start-up Co. or Co. wanting to consoli- should incl. flat sketching, Illustrator, [email protected] ing; be familiar with fabrics, trims and date operations. Please call: 212.944.6868 . Men’s Retail Buyer skills, knowledge of garment construc- NEW YORK CITY Photoshop and Excel. Great organiza- logistics. Computer exp & communica- tion skills are a must. Located in tion, draping and patternmaking. Must tion / follow up a must. Communica- also be able to accurately spec garments Would you like to work for the Ultimate tion w/ overseas & multi tasking is key. Woodbury, LI. Excellent compensation British Lifestyle Brand? Ben Sherman MERCHANDISER package and growth potential. and participate in fittings and follow seeks retail buyer w/ 3-5 yrs exp for U.S. Technical Designer Please email resume to: up w/tech pack comments in webPDM. expansion. Position includes merch. Contemporary Fashion Company is seeking Must have 5-7 yrs exp. Ladies’ & Men’s Tailored Clothing to add an exp’d Merchandiser with 3-5 [email protected] selection, identifying new business Detail oriented, organized candidate Fax or email resumes to: 509-757-7814 opptys, budgeting, develop/maintain years experience to work with Sales, or [email protected] w/ 3+ yrs exp in garment fittings / Production and Design to establish systems. Email resume to: evaluations / measuring. Daily commu- [email protected] seasonal business goals, product nication w/ overseas factories. Qualifi- categories, cost and pricing strategies TECHNICAL DESIGNER cations must incl. knowl. of pattern that ensure profitability. Will maintain Production Mgr to $90K. Chinese/Eng Missy, Junior & Kids intimate/ lounge making, better garment construction inventory controls, margin & product biling req’d. Strong knowl of construction wear co. seeks exp’d Tech Designer. CAD/Print Designer and fit guidelines of ladies’ and men’s pricing. Must be detail-oriented and of garments/fabric. Supervise 4. Travel to Duties include: specking, sample com- tailored clothing. Sample / production possess strong computer skills. Exp. China 2x a yr. Mdtn. [email protected] ment & full grading measurement. Defi ning style. Magaschoni Apparel Group tracking & tremendous organizational In the contemporary market is Candidate will also assist designers with skills required. required. Pls send resumes in confidence sketching & preparing tech packages. Delivering results. Bridge sportswear company seeking We offer health and 401(k) benefits. to: [email protected] Strong computer skills in Illustrator & candidates with 2-3 years experience to Please email resume and salary req: Excel a must. design prints, patterns, layouts & color [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] combos. Will work with PR Dept./Pres. PRODUCTION to work on ads & corporate logo. Must Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail have knowledge of MAC, Photoshop, DESIGNER - SWEATERS Product Developers PATTERNMAKER TECHNICAL DESIGN fpclassifi [email protected] Illustrator & be a self starter with keen Designer w/ flair for hi fashion young *Mens Designers Sweaters $70-75K Designer Eveningwear. Must have Sportswear with knowledge of sense of color. Please email resumes to: trendy contemporary apparel. Able to *Wovens/Knits, Runway Designr $60K strong draping skills. Excellent salary knits & wovens. Min. 5 yrs exp. to advertise. [email protected] produce complete tech packs. Fax 718- *Womens Sweaters $60-70K+ Bonus for experienced. Fast-paced environment. Mandarin/Cantonese required. or Fax: (509) 757-7814 894-3374 or email: [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 Fax information to: 212-463-8224 Email: [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 15 WWD.COM

Serge Normant at John Frieda Bows CLOSE TO GETTING DOWN: Don’t think that actors on the REALITY: biggest show on television are too cool to get on the he Meatpacking District — fact that stylist and colorist Harry MEMO PAD Vanity Fair dance fl oor at a party. The cast of “Grey’s Anatomy” Twhich many refer to as Salon Josh has been added to his cre- is about to did the electric slide with vigor to classic pop hits Row — has received a new mem- ative team. Normant charges $500 get its own fi ctional treatment — up to a point. at Entertainment Weekly/Vavoom’s upfront party ber, a fi rst-fl oor, industrial number a haircut, a bargain compared with Due out in July, “Confessions of a Wall Street Tuesday night at The Box. Chandra Wilson (who plays that’s been designed not only to be his neighbors, such as Hershberger Shoeshine Boy,” by Vanity Fair deputy editor Doug Dr. Miranda Bailey), led the group, while James raw and sexy, but to protect its ce- who charges $600 and Orlando Pita, Stumpf, is the story of a journalist having trouble T. Pickens (chief of surgery Dr. Richard Webber), lebrity clientele from the paparazzi: who at his Orlo salon charges $800. making his mark at glamorous Glossy magazine Sara Ramirez, Rebecca Gayheart and others followed sheer curtains have been installed The salon, which was designed and until a young Brazilian shoeshiner tips him off to along. The cast of NBC’s “Heroes” and “Friday between the cutting-room fl oor and decorated by West Chin and Roseann a major insider trading scam. Night Lights” also showed up at the event, as did the street front window. Repetti, respectively, was modeled Having come from book editing, Stumpf had Eva Longoria, Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher, who held The launch of the 1,300-square- after the look of famed photographer never been a reporter himself, so he interviewed court at a corner table in the balcony, Taye Diggs and foot salon, Serge Normant at John Michael Thompson’s art studio. Vanity Fair writers like David Margolick and Ned Idina Menzel, Angie Harmon and Ice T, and his wife, Frieda, located at 825 Washington “The Meatpacking District lo- Zeman. Nearly every character is named after a Coco, who stopped by the Lucky Upfront Suite earlier Street, was celebrated Tuesday cale brought a raw element but we real person in Stumpf’s life — Fred Turner, for that day to load up on clothes by Primp, Lia Sophia evening with a small had to be elegant and example, was his assistant. The shoeshiner has jewelry, and Cosabella lingerie. — Stephanie D. Smith fete given by both hair chic, sexy and modern, a real-life counterpart who worked near the old gurus, and attended by too,” said Chin. Sheer Condé Nast offi ces on 350 Madison. “Everyone SUGAR HIGH: Last year, speculation swirled that many of their celebrity curtains and ponyskin at Vanity Fair knew him,” said Stumpf. “We all e-mail newsletter DailyCandy was on the market, clients and friends, in- textiles add warmth, kind of took him under our wing.” Running into with a hefty price tag at about $100 million. cluding Ellen Barkin, while a small fish the shoeshiner later and hearing about his new gig Though chatter has simmered (and the rumor Diane von Furstenberg, pond offers a natural shining at a Wall Street investment fi rm inspired was never confi rmed), the company is expanding Sarah Jessica Parker, element. A huge, spar- Stumpf to write the book. its footprint over the next year and adding Iman, Laura Mercier, kling crystal chande- There are some unmistakable parallels experienced staffers to help grow its operations. Christy Turlington lier in the center of the between Glossy and Vanity Fair. DailyCandy tapped Catherine Levene to become the and Ed Burns and Dr. space was a remnant Owned by a non-interfering man by the name company’s fi rst chief operating offi cer, while Alyson Lisa Airan. Executives of Nells, the former of “Al Lieberman” (clearly based on Condé Nast Racer was named vice president of advertising from Kao Brands, the club and nightspot on Publications chairman S. I. Newhouse Jr., and sales, reporting to Levene. Both join from The New owner of John Frieda EHLERS/WIREIMAGE SHAWN PHOTO BY West 14th Street. only coincidentally evoking his longtime editorial York Times; Levene was previously a vice president Professional Hair Care, Ellen Barkin and Sarah Barkin was pleased director Alexander Liberman), Glossy has writers in the paper’s digital unit, while Racer was were also there, includ- Jessica Parker to support the man described as “a phalanx of big guns who had been formerly vice president of advertising. The hires ing Brigitte King, vice who’s cut her hair for around since the Stone Age…Any hope of the will help DailyCandy expand its advertising efforts president of marketing. 15 years. For the most part, the self- Big Guns just ignoring me evaporated when my and branch out into new markets. Previously The salon is Normant’s fi rst solo proclaimed haircut addict — she new salary was leaked to a gossip column, and it DailyCandy chief executive offi cer Pete Sheinbaum endeavor and is 50 percent owned gets it cut almost every two weeks turned out I was making as much or more than oversaw the ad sales team, a staff of fi ve two years by Frieda. The venture marks the to every two months — gives him ar- some of them.” ago. Now that DailyCandy has 16 editions and over fi rst time Frieda has fi nancially part- tistic freedom. The editor in chief of Glossy, Ed, is described 20 people responsible for sales and marketing, “I nered in a salon rather than owning “People who are cutting hair, es- as a “New England WASP,” who “tends to dress will spend more time on strategic initiatives, new it 100 percent, pecially someone like he’s about to go trout fi shing,” and who favors markets, and product development,” he said. “My such as when he like Serge, know “dogwood-pink corduroys.” (Stumpf said he’s not time needs to be spent more externally.” established Sally what they’re sure if Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Carter, Those initiatives include DailyCandy’s new Hershberger at BEAUTY BEAT doing. No one whose little-used fi rst name is Edward, has read the mobile platform, which launched this winter, and John Frieda in cuts my hair ex- drafts he gave him.) exploring cities abroad to expand DailyCandy’s Los Angeles [the deal is now defunct] cept him, except for maybe a trim, But though Warner Bros. picked up fi lm international reach. Enhancements to the and Sharon Dorram-Krause at John and they don’t do it without speak- rights two years ago, this is far from “The Devil newsletter will also be unveiled this summer, which Frieda, a salon located on the Upper ing to Serge to get special instruc- Wears Prada,” mostly because the movie script will allow its 2.4 million subscribers to access East Side of New York. tions. He gets on the phone and has already edited out the journalism gig and seven years’ worth of DailyCandy archives quickly. “He’s the right person,” Frieda tells them what to do.” replaced it with, in Stumpf’s words, an “Eliot Sheinbaum said subscribers are still growing in the said of why he partnered with As for her new brighter blonde Spitzer character.” But there’s also that sentence double digits — its New York version is growing at Normant. “I’ve worked with him for hair color, Barkin said she wanted a in Stumpf’s acknowledgments, which offers a 25 percent clip as young women seek out what awhile. We share the same vision.” hue similar to a stick of butter. Clearly, “gratitude without end to my mom and dad and do in the city after they “graduate, come to the city Normant is pleased about the though, she won’t melt in the sun. Graydon Carter.” — Irin Carmon after college, or start a new job.” — S.D.S. downtown location, as well as the — Andrea Nagel

Sales Executives/Sales Reps Attn: Sales Reps Sales Executive — Denim Lana Fuchs Couture (WITH OR WITHOUT ROUTES) Established, moderate price, junior Las Vegas based Luxury Women’s and travel Successfully est’d. 35 year old co. has denim company is seeking energetic, Children’s Apparel Co. seeks exp’d, ag- developed new line of Urban Fashion experienced, self motivated sales gressive In-house Sales Executives & Jewelry to debut immediately, and is executive to maintain and expand Independent Outside Reps with strong, offering protected territories. Interview- customer base. Must have relationships well-est’d contacts with Dept. Stores, ing for the tri-state area on 5/18 & 5/19 with chains and dept stores & extensive Nat’l Chains and Specialty Boutiques. at Hyatt Regency in Jersey City (on exp in the denim market. Please email resume to: the Hudson, next to the PATH station). Email resume to [email protected] [email protected] High commission & residual web sales. or call: 1-888-88-FUCHS. Free training and immediate $$$! For more information or confirm interview, Sales Pro Better-Bridge please call: 877-795-1901 or 732-687-1326 If you possess a real & current follow- Or you may Fax / E-mail your resume to: ing of accounts among bridge-better Jordache sets high standards for 631-288-4935 / [email protected] depts in specialty, dept stores and catalogs in this country. You are able our products & our people. The Sales Executive to bring this asset to an established, premier denim jean co. is seeking: Major Moderate Sportswear Co. has a successful mfr of better-bridge, branded jenny yuen unique opportunity for a strong Sales- & product development mdse, we want Independent Sales Reps Sales Rep for Handbags person with Chain Store (JCP, Mervyn’s, to meet you. This position requires a Self-motivated Sales Rep needed for United Retail, etc.) following. If you have person who can produce a result, not With or without showrooms, to handbag line. Applicants should be the talent & qualifications to run a big "try." Please respond with a current experienced with client list of quality volume business, take advantage of this resume. E-mail [email protected] sell the new Jordache Womens & stores and have strong relationship great opportunity! Fax / E-mail resumes: Mens contemporary jeans line. with buyers. www.jennywashere.com 212-302-4315 / [email protected] Sweater Sales & Must have strong contacts with for more info. E-mail resume/salary to: dept. stores, chain & specialty [email protected] Business Development stores. The right candidate should Large Better Sweater Mfr., over 40 years Leverage the power of WWD among industry seeks Sales & Business Development possess a proven track record, Manager to compliment its ever expand- professionals to reach both active and passive established account base, be ing business. We are seeking Sales & energetic and highly motivated in Business Developers with at least 5 years job seekers. SALES ASSOCIATE experience in apparel sales, and Chain / the denim market. Major bridge label seeks a highly Sales Executive Specialty / Dept. Store relationships, to motivated/ energetic showroom sales Seeking experienced sales executive join our New York operation. Must have Avail.Territories: WEST COAST assoc to join our team to help grow & for new men’s & women’s clothing line. understanding of sweaters, product devel- manage our account base. Must have Must have strong relationships with opment, and new customer development Email: [email protected] relationships with specialty stores & specialty retailers in domestic and for private & branded labels. Good com- Subject: jord-026 or complete knowledge of the industry. international markets. Responsible for munication skills necessary. Salary & Fax: 646-383-8285 Attn: Lissa Cole Trade shows & travel are req’d. Must sales analysis and strategic planning. benefits commensurate with experience. Call 1-800-423-3314 or email have 3-5 years selling experience. Min. 2 years exp. Include salary re- Please call or Fax/E-mail resumes to: [email protected] Please send salary requirements & quirements. Fax resume: (212) 400-6187 Tel: 212-921-2181 / Fax: 212-921-2184 fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. resume to: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected]. [email protected] 16 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 17, 2007 WWD.COM

Ashton Kutcher, Donna Karan and Demi Moore Happy Snappers in Donna Karan. This week’s parties made art students out of the social set. On Monday, the lens was turned on photographers at the International Center of Photography’s Infi nity Awards. Julianne Moore, Inez van Lamsweerde, Vinoodh Matadin, Sean Lennon and Kelly and Calvin Klein all made their way to Pier 60 for the event. Though Karl Lagerfeld and William Klein were happy to get the ICP Trustees Award and the Lifetime Achievement award, respectively — both men pined for another. “I’m still a young photographer,” joked Lagerfeld, though that distinction went to Ryan McGinley. Klein lamented: “I asked them if I could have that one instead.” Uptown, it was all about the art of the dance. “One day I’m going to grow up and be a ballerina,” sighed honorary co-chair Blaine Tr u m p after watching the performances at the American Ballet Theatre’s Spring Gala at Martin Lincoln Center. Scorsese The dinner afterward attracted a group of balletomanes including honorary co-chair Caroline Kennedy, Isabella Rossellini, Chelsea Clinton, Susan Fales-Hill, Sarah Ferguson, Grace Hightower (with husband Robert De Niro) and co-chair Carolina Herrera. Julianne The gala even drew Peter Bacanovic out of the woodwork. Moore in “This is my favorite night of the year,” he enthused. Chanel On Tuesday night, ladies broke out their most fl oral fi nery for with Karl the Museum of Modern Art’s annual Party in the Garden, honoring Lagerfeld. Debra and Leon Black and Martin Scorsese. Guests including

Aerin and Jane Lauder, Clarissa Bronfman, Carroll Petrie and LGO/EFE/CORBIS Marie Josée-Kravis dressed in brights of every rainbow hue. Guest of honor Scorsese was fashionable too — fashionably late. The famed director is hard at work on a documentary Chanel Iman in about the Rolling Stones. “I came straight from the editing Valentino Couture room, not the house,” he said. “I was just in the middle of at Lincoln Center. something, and then was told I had to get dressed.” Downtown, Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher, Bernadette Peters, Ross Bleckner, Sandy Gallin and a tribe of yogis convened at the Stephan Weiss Studio to fete Donna Karan’s Urban Zen Well-Being Forum. “The next time you see me, I’m going to be twisted up like a pretzel,” said CeCe Cord. Aerin Jane Lauder Lauder in Oscar in Oscar de la de la Renta. Renta.

Tory Burch in Carolina Irina Lazareanu in Joanne de Guardiola Caroline Herrera Chanel with Sean with Susan Fales-Hill Kennedy with Peter Inez van Lamsweerde with Lennon. in Carolina Herrera. in Prada. Bacanovic. Vinoodh Matadin. ICP PHOTOS BY KRISTEN SOMODY; ABT BY JIMI CELESTE; MOMA BY STEVE EICHNER; KARAN BY KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE; ANDERSON BY J.C. HIDA KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE; ANDERSON BY BY STEVE EICHNER; KARAN JIMI CELESTE; MOMA BY ABT BY KRISTEN SOMODY; ICP PHOTOS BY

are always in the middle of changing. WWD: What made you decide this was the I stop predicting that kind of stuff. In Laurie right time to bring back “Big Science,” Anderson High Fidelity rehearsal, we will take these pieces which is being released in June? apart and put them back together. I L.A.: Probably the anniversary of the aurie Anderson is one of those New Yorkers who reassures work in my own studio. I used to go battle of Waterloo on June 18. The Lother Manhattanites that their city is officially cool. Like to big studios but then I realized all idea of the release with Waterloo is just rare, indigenous birds, a mere sighting of her and her mate, my toys are here — what if we used that one of the songs, “O Superman,” Lou Reed, is proof the downtown wildlife is not yet extinct. pennywhistles, or if I want to switch was written in response to the Iranian And whether the outspoken, iconoclastic duo has sought it or to the hurdy-gurdy? Although that is hostage situation — when we went in not, the two have been elevated to patron saints of a certain always a bad idea. with these helicopters. It was about order, lending their support to creative institutions from The how big technology was meant to Kitchen to the Brooklyn Academy of Music. Tonight and WWD: You are rereleasing your seminal conquer everything, but it was gigantic Friday, Anderson brings her unique blend of performance 1982 album, “Big Science.” What was it humiliation and loss. And I realized that art and music to the David Bowie-curated High Line Festival like to go back and revisit those tracks? that war is still going on: the world of before she jets off to Europe for a summer tour. L.A.: When we were remastering it, Western technology versus Islam. What at fi rst I didn’t see the point, and I a con — people don’t realize that we WWD: How did you get involved with the festival? thought it was just another thing you are on the edge of coming into the 30th Laurie Anderson: I heard it was going to happen and I was do to sell something. But I listened anniversary of this war. And there is no really excited about it. I was talking to David Bowie and I was to the CD and it was just awful. And I way to win that war — there is no point saying, ‘I hope I can be in it.’ I basically tried to invite myself. thought, That’s been out. It’s awful that at which you say you won and you lost. it sounds like that. It was early and it “Homeland” is about that, too. I guess WWD: How do you and David know each other? was low-end. When we went back to I’m always in some way talking about L.A.: I am more a fan than a friend, but we once did a mind- master it, I was in tears. technology and culture, no matter how reading project together. It involved drawings and a fax But I don’t hear records like that anymore and I don’t make hard I try to get away from it. machine — it was a really fun project. records like that anymore. The most exciting thing is that you can — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz hear the air — we recorded using beautiful ribbon mics, and you WWD: What will you be performing? can hear fi ngers lifting off the skin of the drumhead, you can hear Laurie Anderson, The High Line Festival, May 17 to 18, L.A.: It’s an early version of something called “Homeland” people sweating, it’s like a jazz record. It feels like it was made High Line Ballroom, 431 West 16th Street, New York; [which is scheduled for release next year]. But these things yesterday. It doesn’t feel dated — and I’m really proud of that. highlinefestival.com.