FASHION’S BIG IDEAS

The+ Big Brand Era Jumping into IPOs Celebrating Alber Digital Do, Digital Don’t Manolo vs. Louboutin Ron Burkle, Fashion Guy What Will Hedi Do? London, New & Now The Hottest Model Cinema Italiano $10.00 DISPLAY UNTIL JULY 30, 2012 28 Days

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CONTENTS FALL 2012

UPFRONT 10 28 DAYS Lots of news on and off the runways, from the kickoff in New York until the last exit in Paris. 12 STATE YOUR CASE Retailers pick their single favorite collection of fall. 14 THE BIG TEN: EXPRESSION OF FREEDOM Alber Elbaz celebrates a decade at the helm of Lanvin. 15 COMEBACK KID: A HEDI VIEW FOR YVES SAINT LAURENT Hedi Slimane shakes things up—again—at a storied house. 16 CHINA NOW: ANOTHER DESIGNER NAMED WANG Uma Wang works the West. 18 RUNWAY CHAMP: THE FACE OF FALL Julia Nobis is the most in-demand model of the season. 20 EICHNER’S EYE WWD photographer Steve Eichner sees it, snaps it, says it during New York fashion week. 22 CAMERA MAN: PARIS PLAYGROUND Lensman Stéphane Feugère roams all around the Paris shows. 24 NEW YORK MINUTES: IN THE FLASH From front row to after parties, photographer Miles Ladin captures the scene.

ON THE COVER GIANNONI; DONNA KARAN CHINSEE GEORGE BY A sweeping cape by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, photographed by Stéphane Feugère.

Mary Katrantzou Donna Karan MARY KATRANTZOU PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO KATRANTZOU MARY

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 78. SUNDAY, APRIL 15, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD COLLECTIONS

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CONTENTS FALL 2012

FEATURES

26 FASHION ON FILM: CINEMA ITALIANO Designers all over went big for film and multimedia presentations. Here’s how the Italians did it. 28 LONDON TOWN: A LITTLE RESPECT A reenergized London gets its due. 30 THE FINANCIALS: TAKING THE IPO PLUNGE The big-money lure of going public. Plus, an update on LVMH’s L Capital Management investment arm. 32 LABEL VS. DESIGNER: THE BIG BRAND ERA What happens when houses square off with designers? 34 THE LINE BACKER: WHO IS RON BURKLE AND WHY DOES HE LOVE FASHION? A very private mogul has growing interests in the world of style. 37 S!COMMERCE: DIGITAL DO, DIGITAL DON’T Things to do and things to avoid when making the leap from socializing to transaction. 38 BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY: THE TIMES THEY ARE A!CHANGING The fashion landscape has never been more volatile. 42 FASHION’S BIG IDEAS From Chanel sportif to animalia, fabulous fabrics to military style, peplums to exotica— here are some of the season’s major concepts. 62 FINALE: SHOE SMACKDOWN Christian Louboutin vs. Manolo Blahnik in the battle for runway collaborations.

Giorgio Armani PHOTO BY GIOVANNIPHOTO GIANNONI

WWD COLLECTIONS

&2/&RQWHQWVLQGG 30  Christian Dior Boutiques: www.dior.com EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, Paul Jowdy ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel EDITOR James Fallon EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Brett Mitchell MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. Pogoda LUXURY DIRECTOR, FINE JEWELRY & WATCHES, Ellie Ghadimi EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha FASHION & RETAIL MANAGER, Nancy Gutman NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood JUNIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER, Holland Casey DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Sarah Taylor SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin ASSISTANT TO THE CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, Dana Cirincione SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, TEXTILES & TRADE Arthur Friedman ADVERTISING COORDINATOR, Stephanie Fell SENIOR EDITOR Arnold J. Karr ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski REGIONAL OFFICES BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti WEST COAST DIRECTOR, 323!965!7283, Jill Biren BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER, 323!965!7285, Courtney Hazirjian BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser INTERNATIONAL OFFICES SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, 011!3902!6558!4225, Guglielmo Bava ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY, 011!3902!6558!4224, Olga Kouznetsova EYE EDITOR Matthew Lynch ACCOUNT MANAGER, MILAN, 011!3902!6558!4236, Giulia Squeri SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS, 011!331!4451!1290, Odile Eda Pierre SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR Julie Naughton MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR Andrea Nagel ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Marc Karimzadeh Megan Marino, Tina Schlissel, Sam Todd, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson-Escriout MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES SENIOR FASHION EDITOR, SPORTSWEAR Kim Friday EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING, Janet Menaker; CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR, Emily Cortez SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Antonia Sardone EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING, Kristen M. Wildman; PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR, Marjorie Keating DIRECTOR OF INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS, Danielle McMurray CONTRIBUTING SENIOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR Etta Froio DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Pincus; CREATIVE DIRECTOR, Fabio Salles CONTRIBUTING EDITOR AT LARGE John B. Fairchild COPY DIRECTOR, Julia Donahue; SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Borck SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER, Brianna Lipovsky; MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Kristin Mooney WWD.COM MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Jamie Rudolph; ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Alissa Gross ASSOCIATE ONLINE EDITOR Krystina Gustafson ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jessica Casey; COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Danielle K. Stewart ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Roberta Correia MARKETING COORDINATOR, Leigh Alcott

MEN’S PRODUCTION SENIOR EDITORS Jean E. Palmieri, David Lipke VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING, Gena Kelly FASHION EDITOR Alex Badia GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Chris Wengiel "ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR# Luis Campuzano PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Kevin Hurley ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER, Jill Breiner MARKET EDITORS SENIOR B2B DISTRIBUTION MANAGER, Michael Wagner MILAN Alessandra Turra, Cynthia Martens "EDITORIAL ASSISTANT# LONDON Nina Jones, Catherine Tipple "EDITORIAL ASSISTANT# CONSUMER MARKETING LOS ANGELES Rachel Brown, Khanh T.L. Tran "NEWS# SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Ellen Dealy NEW YORK William Cotto; Vicki M. Young "DEPUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR#; PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR, John Cross Evan Clark "DEPUTY EDITOR, BUSINESS#; Alexandra Steigrad SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER, Suzanne Berardi "FINANCIAL/ACCESSORIES#; Rachel Strugatz "ACCESSORIES#; MARKETING DIRECTOR, Peggy Pyle Molly Prior "BEAUTY#; Bobbi Queen "FURS#; Karyn Monget ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER, Alison Christie "INNERWEAR/BODYWEAR#; Rosemary Feitelberg "READY!TO! WEAR AND SPORTSWEAR NEWS#; Mayte Allende "SPORTSWEAR FASHION#; Amy Wicks "MEDIA#; Alessandra Codinha "EYE#; Tara Bonet-Black, Taylor Harris "EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS# PARIS Jennifer Weil "BEAUTY#; Laurent Folcher, FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA Katya Foreman, Joelle Diderich; Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant "EDITORIAL ASSISTANT# PRESIDENT & CEO WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis "BUREAU CHIEF# GINA SANDERS

LAYOUT/COPYDESK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas Will Schenck COPY EDITORS Ben Cake, Matthew W. Evans, Adam Perkowsky, Katie Kretschmer VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS, Suzanne Reinhardt VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL, Dan Shar ART DEPARTMENT VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS, Melissa Brecher GROUP ART DIRECTOR Andrew Flynn EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT, Michael Atmore ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS Sharon Ber, Amy Lomacchio JUNIOR DESIGNER Jena Buckwell BUSINESS GROUP CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR Gina Nastasi FINANCE DIRECTOR, Devon Beemer BUSINESS ANALYST, Tanya Davis STAFF PHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS MANAGER, WWD, Janet Janoff Erin Fitzgerald (Mgr.), John Aquino, Delphine Achard, DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS, Ron Wilson Stephano Bianchi, Tyler Boye, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Thierry Chomel, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Tim Jenkins, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Mauricio Miranda, Donato Sardella PUBLISHED BY FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA PHOTO A division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 PHOTO EDITOR Carrie Provenzano TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212: NEWS: 630-3500 | FASHION: 630-3535 ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Lexie Moreland DISPLAY ADVERTISING: 630-4600 | CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING: 630-4610 PHOTO ASSISTANT Jenna Greene INDIVIDUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS AND SINGLE COPY SALES: 800-289-0273 FOREIGN SUBSCRIBERS (OUTSIDE THE U.S.): 818-487-4526, FAX NUMBER: 818-487-4550 GROUP SUBSCRIPTIONS: 286-3951 | SUBSCRIPTION ORDERS CAN BE FAXED TO 790-1868 CREATIVE DIRECTOR PRODUCTION: 212-630-4469 Nancy Butkus FAIRCHILD OFFICES: LONDON: 25 MADDOX STREET, WIS 2QNL, 442-074-937-383 | LOS ANGELES: 6300 WILSHIRE BLVD., SUITE 720, 90048, 323-965-3400 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR MILAN: CORSO ITALIA 13, 20122, 011-39-02-6558-4201 | PARIS: 9 RUE ROYALE, 75008 , 331- Peter W. Kaplan W451-1300 | WASHINGTON: 1050 17TH ST., N.W., SUITE 600, 20036 , 202-496-4975

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MARTHA STEWART PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO meaningfully inthenearterm. metrics would not change that its credit protection consumer spending, but to improve along with luxury expects Barneys’ performance from “CCC.” S&P says it rating three notches to “CC” retailer’s corporate credit Poor’s downgrades the luxe The Upshot: business asusual”at thestore. officials assure that “it’s company. However, Barneys refinancing to a sale of the a range of scenarios—from fueling speculation about million revolving credit loan, to help renegotiate a $200 law firm Kirkland & Ellis LLP spotlight once again. It hires retailer’s debt burden is in the O Feb. 9 Caption teekay.Caption NEW YORK ut: +10% -5% 0 +5% *BU

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PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIONNONI, TALAYA CENTENO, JOHN AQUINO

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14 on aspirited romp—in both designandsong. Marking his 10th anniversary at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz took his audience O E them andtotellallofus:You know sing also for all my colleagues, to tell “I thoughtitwouldbeanicesongto busy, in speculation,” Elbaz explains. busy, isvery everybody ormaybe too song fortoday infashion,when Laurent. YvesSaint and Sander Jil spin faster, with changes at the helmseason of that saw fashion’s revolving door Swinton andPharrellWilliams. crowd includingJessica Alba,Tilda ovationwinning astanding froma Day’s classic“QueSera, Sera,” to themicrophonesingDoris Pink Martini—the designertook orchestra where—backed byretro oftheParisthe afterglow event, fashion showinBeijing onApril26. celebrations planned, including a with a series of further anniversary The pace shows no sign of slowing, three weekends off since August. Elbaz explains he has only had (though he hates the expression), mint tea for his cold. paper handkerchief and drinking of the Hôtel de Crillon, clutching a in an oversize sofa in the tearoom of Lanvin, the designer is ensconced 10th anniversary at the creative helm ready-to-wear show marking his weather. Two weeks after the Paris ALBER ELBAZ IS

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so much fun, and I loved seeing it.” with all the people dancing and having day later, they showed me the video was midnight and I left. And only the “So I asked to have a sandwich, and it and the food was long gone,” he says. missed his own party. after the show, he had practically finished giving television interviews having anything goes.” feel like having control—I felt like controlled society today, and I didn’t freedom,” he says. “We are living in a and bringing them back with joy and with brightlycoloredfurs. whimsical floral print dresses paired drowning in oversize frills and vamping it up in cocktail dresses in recent memory, which saw models his most flamboyant Lanvin shows what? We cannotseethefuture.” |

The publicoutpouringof The “Pink Martini wasn’t there anymore, The irony is that by the time Elbaz “It was about these archival pieces, The performance capped one of THE BIGTEN

B Y JOELLE DI JOELLE  D ERICH suit, and an Hermès Kelly bag is an Chanel suit. I mean, it’s a Chanel season.’ But you know, it’s like the too familiar because we saw it last sometimes they will say, ‘This looks off thecriticism. fornovelty,crying butElbaz shrugs that’swith afashionsystem always puthimat odds has sometimes incrementalapproach notes. That torevolution,” evolution I prefer he becauseIalwaysevolution, say that the house.“And wentlike itjust an showfor first his markfromvery (about $270million). 24 percentto 204 millioneuros oflicensingroyalties,rose exclusive alike. Lanvin’s 2011 revenues, celebrities andprofessionalwomen the labelintoago-to resourcefor at hehastransformed Lanvin, commercial success.In hisdecade is ameasureofhiscriticaland affection that Elbazprovokes A I “W Hermès Kelly bag. This is a little bit my vocabulary,” says. my he DIDN’T F DIDN’T both best actress Meryl Streep and NYTHING GO “I sometimes read bloggers, and designersaysThe hefeltmade His most recent coup was dressing E

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L E IK S.” E H —Aber Elbaz, A A CONTRO VING CONTRO C reative LLE D SOCI the most important thing.” important the most think that maintainingthedreamis dream wouldbecomereality. AndI I wouldlivethedream,and Park Avenue, becauseifIdidthat, Staten Island. Idon’twanttoliveon the day, Ineedtogo backhometo hotel,” Elbazsays. “At theendof be like aconcierge inabeautiful tohissuccess. of thekeys so muchloveintothedress.” to sleep for three days, and just put it, just for this woman that didn’t go wanted so much for [Streep] to wear you never know if they will wear it. I the Oscars, you do the dress and days,” he recalls. “And you know, with she finished, she was sick for three three nights on the dress, and after dress worked for three days and Challenge. Green Carpet certified fabric as part of Livia Firth’s asked todesignadressmadeofeco- yet to meet Streep, for whom he was longtime fan of the label, but he has Oscars. Elbaz says Dujardin was a best actor Jean Dujardin for the D “I always say that my jobisto That self-effacing approach is one “The seamstress that made the L irector, Lanvin ! I F E EL TY TOD T L IK WWD COLLECTIONS WWD E A H Y, A A Kim Kim VING Alber Alber ND the mic, with H astreiter. E lbaz at at lbaz 30

ELBAZ PHOTO BY ST EPHAN E FEUGERE; RUNWAY BY D ELPHIN E ACHAR D &2/+HGL6OLPDQHLQGG

PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE Hedi Slimane Hedi C S A to shed more than 90 pounds. famously prompting Karl Lagerfeld aesthetic for men’s wear that decade, at Dior Homme, set the defining and his subsequent seven years Pour Homme, from 1996 to 2000, three-year sabbatical. comeback at Celine in 2009 after a buzz that surrounded Phoebe Philo’s among press and retailers to rival the has generated a degree of excitement superstar to the storied French house brand. oftheSaintLaurent director PPR—on his first designs as creative the holding company for YSL parent the headquarters of Artémis Group, working in the same building—now headquarters. Paris waiting for work to finish on his own studio at 12 Rue François 1er while Saint Laurent set up a temporary collection under his own name, Yves to show his first ready-to-wear images of young rock stars, actors and magazine spreads galore, and posting shooting campaigns for Prada and Los Angeles and pursued photography, WWD CO WWD haking thingsup—again—atastoried house. Slimane’s stint at YSL Rive Gauche The arrival of the men’s wear Fifty years later, Hedi Slimane is In the interim, Slimane relocated to

HediView for YSL it agood omen. rystal Gazers might consider LL In 1962, as he prepared ECTION S exception and rarity of it.” dream and fantasy of luxury, the well-crafted tailoring. I also like the I like well-made, authentic clothes, You have to decide where you stand. fashion. “I only like luxury fashion. ways and develop a taste for, say, fast catch up withitintime.” have my passionforit.I’ll protected lovedesign,and Idostill distance.… andhealthy to take anecessary intended togiveupondesign,but tofashion:“Inever wished toreturn year, Slimanemadeitclearhe publicationsister onwithhiswork. Slimaneget to let the designer have opted to stay mum vision ofHedi Slimane.” harnessed and revealed through the I am confident will be successfully possesses formidable potential, which houses, Yves Saint Laurent today of the most important French fashion François-Henri Pinault noted, “As one Paris Fashion Week, PPR chairman designer. As the news broke during big bang with its bold choice of sculptures. minimalist fine art, from fragmented photos to artists on his Web site. He also made Slimane also didn’t change his with In aninterview Pinault, YSL ceo Paul Deneve and To be sure, PPR is expecting a B Y JOELLE DI JOELLE Menswear  WWD D ERI last last ’s CH COMEBACK KID COMEBACK the Saint Laurent family, my family, the houseofYves SaintLaurent.” that hasbeenmissingatsomething an enormousamountoftalent, Tom Ford. “Hedi Slimanehas Pilatipredecessors, Stefano and forSlimane’s hidhisdistaste never access totheYSL archives. unrestricted Betty Catroux. This should secure Pierrehim Bergé and androgynous muse the late couturier’s business partner members of the Saint Laurent clan: endorsement of the remaining Slimane does with the accessories second orthirdseason.” it straight away, but wait until the embroidery. He might not tackle the North African influences, the Laurent: the flou, the bright colors, will approach the other side of Saint tuxedos, but the question is how he feminine look and will give us great will be very good at the masculine- today,” de Lalun says. “Obviously, he different to anything on the market woman will probably be completely has spentinCalifornia. underground music and the time he photographic work, his interest in wear would no doubt reflect his Slimane’s approach to women’s department store Printemps, says and women’s apparel at French merchandise manager for men’s done a women’s collection. Homme, but the designer has never wore Slimane’s smaller sizes at Dior Madonna were among those who today, isasitshouldbe.” soeverything the spirit of Yves. He is the YSL of girls magic again. Hedi will continue am sure he will find a new way to make perfectly. I always dress as a boy, andbut likeI Yves, he understands his timeshas the same sensibility and aesthetic, e-mail. “It will be easy for him as he excited I am,” Catroux writes in an so you can imagine how happy and TODA “HEDI WILLCONTINUE T “Hedi is the only one belonging to “I’m happy,” very says Bergé,who Crucially, Slimane has the Perhaps more important is what “His vision of the Saint Laurent Tancrède de Lalun, general Catroux, Nicole Kidman and Y , SOEVER Y T H ING ISASITS H E SPIRITOFYVES.HEIST

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Upfront H gradually. “It’s been tremendously will evolve the accessories business Avenue, says he hopes Slimane merchandising officer of Saks Fifth accessories androyalties16percent. 25 percent, apparel 24 percent and 35 percent of revenues, footwear Too. In 2011, leather goods generated bags and shoes, like the Muse and Trib to-wear but turned out a string of hit million at average exchange rates. year to 353.7 million euros, or $493.2 revenues, which rose 31.4 percent last that generate the bulk of the brand’s enjoys the weather in California.” laughs, “especially because he really think that’s a little more tricky,” Rech climate after living in Los Angeles. “I Slimane to adjust to the Parisian photography,” shenotes. design and an artistic medium like appearance of an outfit to interior universe—so everything from the “He enjoys working on a complete from clothing to advertising to stores. touch to every aspect of the brand, imagines he would want to bring his details of his YSL contract, but artwork, says she’s not privy to the Paris and Brussels show Slimane’s and planstoopen15in2012. YSL ended last year with 83 stores decor introduced by Pilati in 2008. versions of the “Opium experience” tenure, while newer boutiques reflect design concept from Tom Ford’s retain the underlit, mostly black retail locations, some of which renovating at least part of the brand’s intheready-to-wear.”defend walk into it, because there’s not a lot to so I think it’s kind of a perfect way to not grown as we’d all hoped it would, small business. “It has unfortunately with rtw, since this was a relatively that Slimane would have more latitude new customers to the brand.” He notes strong rate, and has brought a lot of successful and growing at a very OULD BE.” Ron Frasch, president and chief forready- reviews Pilati haduneven The hardest thing might be for Almine Rech, whose galleries in Pushing the business will involve —with contributions—with from Miles Socha

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16 McCollough of Proenza Schouler Schouler Proenza of McCollough Jack and Hernandez Lazaro while system, fashion American the learning time spend will she wherein program, exchange Fund Fashion CFDA/Vogue a of part as York New in be will May,Wang in Beginning Wintour. Anna and of Sozzani Franca of Angelica Cheung Vogue the into taken been also Wanghas Week. Fashion Milan during 700 of audience an of front show,in runway solo first her collection, fall her showing circuit, fashion international high-end the on notice gain to designers Chinese few the of one Wang is ago. years specifically—18 fashion—knitwear, study to Shanghai to moving before Mainland northern the in doctors of family a in up grew She China. in lives still and from actually is Wang, Alexander Vera Wang and unlike Wang,who, 39-year-old “It’s Chinese.” alsovery it’s abeautifulcolor,” says Wang. thinks really usered,buteveryone that hunginthewindow. “We don’t dress oxfords, andacrimsonvelvet the designer’s jolting,size41men’s was black,withtwo exceptions: racks totheclothesonWang’s back, the room,fromclotheson Australian buyers.Everythingin on alongblackcoat forapairof sales agent andmodel,asshetried in theMarais, workingasdesigner, showroom onRue Sainte-Anastase A O Uma Wang works theWest. N

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putting red in her fall collection. collection. fall her in red putting influence—by major a is Yamamoto palette—Yohji dark a for proclivity own her buck to Wang chose why it.” about know to want really they but market, the only not see to want People popular. really became “China says. in herline. sudden uptickininterest credits, at partially, least forthe especially. It’s that Wang afact in theWest, thefashionindustry findingacaptiveaudience China that thetableshave turned,with new.”something She’s wellaware forsomefreshair,of China tosee Not out Iwantedtoget exciting. designjob.“Itfirst wastoonormal. was soboring,” says Wang ofthat atstudy Central SaintMartins. “It labelto designer ofalocalChinese to leave gigashead hercushy makingthebolddecision 2005 after in who launchedhercollection Shanghai. in same the do money, youcannotdoanything.” no With balanced. be to “Youhave Wang.creativity,” only notes not U.S. “It’s the into break to yet has she though Florence), in Parco nel Nudi Piedi A Milan, in Dantone DAAD London, Vertice (including globally stores 15 in carried are clothes Her business. international her build to tries she Wang as to important increasingly becoming are measures pragmatic Such watches. the of one with coordinate crimson dress,designedtocolor- the of genesis the was Swatch with collaboration spring a Rather, |

A show of nationalist pride is not not is pride nationalist of show A together,” she came “Everything It’s abigmomentforWang, FROM CHINA I REDALE  L Uma Wang ooks from fall. THEY W “CHINA BE R ANT TO SEENOT ONLY THEMA EALLY W C AME REALLY POP ANT TO KNO W A B U O LA U T IT.” R R . KET, P EOPLE WWD COLLECTIONS WWD —Uma Wang BU T 30

WANG PHOTO BY FRANCOIS GOIZE; RUN WAY BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI www.krizia.it NEWYORK 446WEST14THSTREET MILAN VIADELLASPIGA23 ROME P.ZZA DISPAGNA 87 PARIS 48AVENUE MONTAIGNE Julia Nobis backstage at Missoni. 18 | Upfront | RUNWAY CHAMP The Face of Fall Catching up with the most in-demand model of the season. BY TAYLOR HARRIS

ulia Nobis is not above self- a veritable industry darling, the most deprecation. For a recent friendly in-demand model for the fall 2012 meet-up with an ex-boyfriend, season, walking some 72 shows. Her Jshe wore a rugby shirt and jeans — secret to keeping calm through it all? topped off with a floppy beanie and Playing the guitar, which she does a hot pink tutu. “I love making him backstage whatever chance she gets. feel uncomfortable by dressing like a “I bring it if I’m somewhere for more complete idiot,” says the 19-year-old than four days,” she says. model in her charming Aussie twang. It was just four years ago that Nobis On this particular afternoon, Nobis was introduced to the modeling world. So she focused on her studies, doing signed. “She was like, ‘The minute is looking far less festive, her gangly Then 5 feet 10 inches tall (she’s 5 a test shoot and some small jobs here you’re finished with school, you’re frame covered in a hoodie, tank and feet 11 inches now), she was spotted and there until her senior year, when getting on a plane to New York.’” She jeans (albeit from Richard Chai, at a Sydney train station on her way her booker asked if she’d like to do a flew Stateside that following January, Alexander Wang and Superfine), home from a high school drama club show at Sydney Fashion Week. “I was just in time to make the New York oversize headphones strung around meeting, skateboard tucked under absolutely terrified. I had never worn collections castings. her neck. This is her typical getup. her arm. “A woman tapped me on the heels before,” Nobis says. She managed Three years in, she’s got the “I’m very much a first-shirt-on-the- shoulder and I thought she wanted to make her runway debut without runway thing down pat (not to pile, whatever-jeans-are-clean kind directions,” Nobis recalls. “She asked toppling over but it wasn’t entirely mention a few campaigns along the of dresser,” she says, noting that she’s me, ‘Are you a model?’ I outright blunder-free. “They used gold leaf all way, including Burberry, fall 2010; always favored a tomboy, minimalist laughed in her face.” She signed with around my eyes and I got a chemical Proenza Schouler, spring 2011, and aesthetic. As a kid she dressed “like a Priscilla, her mother agency, a few burn from the glue,” she says. “I had Balenciaga, fall 2011) and looks straight-up boy. I used to get mistaken days later, but made it clear she wasn’t these red panda eyes. I wore aviators forward to the end of each season, for one all the time, like, ‘Uh, sir?’” going to give up school. “I told them, ‘I to school that week.” Needless to or what she calls Get Fat Month: It’s that pseudo-androgynous can work during holidays, maybe after say, that’s when a Ford Models scout “I just lay on my couch and eat streak (coupled with some striking class,’” she says. “I thought modeling came to town and wanted to meet Hershey’s Cookies ‘n’ Cream bars facial features) that has made Nobis could be like a hobby.” her. Panda eyes and all, Nobis was and Ferrero Rochers.”

Craziest Makeup: “The Backstage Panic: Best Trick: “This Dries Van Rag & Chanel eyebrows were Victoria “At Versace, I had the season at Giles, Beckham Burberry Balenciaga Noten Bone apparently 200 euros shortest change. I think everyone was falling [$263] a piece so I had 400 there were seven looks during rehearsal so euros [$526] on my face. I’d in-between my first and we put hair spray say that’s pretty crazy.” my second. Everyone on the bottom of was freaking out about our shoes. It acts whether or not I’d make it. like a glue—great Thank God my first look for runway, not so was a big coat with snaps good on carpet.” all the way down. It was like a striptease—I ripped off the coat and bam!” GIOVANNI GAINNONI, ROBERT MITRA, THOMAS IANNACCONE, JOHN AQUINO, PIERO CRISTALDI PIERO AQUINO, JOHN THOMASIANNACCONE, MITRA, ROBERT GAINNONI, GIOVANNI

Most Coveted Look: “Versus. It was jeans, a shirt Most Uncomfortable Outfit: “At and boots. I felt Most Difficult Shoes: “Yves Alexander McQueen, I had one right at home and Saint Laurent. I had these Alexander of the big fur coats that had like joked with Chris superhigh pumps. Even Wang five different types of animals in [Kane], ‘Look, if I though my feet are long, Prada it. Then you’ve got a half-corset just bailed wearing Proenza they’re very narrow so they underneath and a tight belt so you this, is that cool?’ Schouler don’t stay in pumps. I had in can’t breathe; you’re overheating I could have kept Jason Wu four heel grips and tape all Jil Sander and you’re exhausted. We all were walking right off around the back. It wasn’t just standing around these fans the runway!” my best walk.” backstage trying not to pass out.” PORTRAIT BY KUBA DABROWSKI; RUNWAY BY BY RUNWAY DABROWSKI; KUBA BY PORTRAIT WWD COLLECTIONS

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20 | Upfront | EICHNER’S EYE

WWD PHOTOGRAPHER STEVE EICHNER SEES IT, SNAPS IT, SAYS IT AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK.

“It” girls Hanneli Mustaparta, Tamu McPherson and Candice Lake after DKNY.

FEBRUARY 8 and proper… halfway through he says, “Well, 7:41 p.m., amfAR Benefit: Lindsay we have met before”…she says “Where? Lohan—platinum blonde in white dress— When?” He says, “A few nights ago at Double attracts all the paparazzi attention… We Seven—you were dancing on the pole on swarm… She puts her hand in my lens, I top of the banquette”… She got the job. follow her but someone gives me a “flat tire” and I lose my shoe in the middle of the FEBRUARY 11 ballroom of Cipriani Wall Street…As I’m 12:28 p.m., Prabal Gurung: Elettra putting it back on, I see a flurry of flashes... Wiedemann at Prabul show wearing his I look over and see Lindsay posing with paint-splashed pants—the hit of the show. Woody Allen... great shot... missed it. Prabal is the Jackson Pollock of fashion. 7:49 p.m.: Enjoying the powers of wielding 5:47 p.m.: My editor Matt Lynch grabs a camera, I pose Cindy Crawford and Liz me to go backstage at Alex Wang: We want Hurley. Two of the most beautiful women in pics and quotes from Gisele a few days the world stop talking mid-sentence, smile, after she made some crazy comments Gisele Bündchen devote their attention to me… Even if it’s about her hubby’s Super Bowl loss…I shoot backstage at just for a fleeting moment, I feel loved... her posing with the other supes: Karolina Alexander Wang. Kurkova, Carmen Kass and Shalom Harlow. FEBRUARY 9 Matt gets his interview—I flick her alone— packed VIP area... I’m trying to follow for a office at WWD: “Need shots of Deborah 7:55 p.m.: Kate Winslet is touring the then he asks about the Super Bowl talk. She pic… she drops her coat on the floor in front Needleman and Sally Singer for a piece “CFDA at 50” presentation at FIT and gives him the hand and just walks away… of me… I help her pick it up. I snap her from we are working on”… I’m on a mission. about 10 photogs are following her. We’re all far away—don’t want her to freak out on me. 2:11 p.m.: Hal Rubenstein throws a hissy waiting for one of us to get up the courage FEBRUARY 12 fit bc the paparazzi crowded his space in a to ask her to pose with the dresses behind 1:24 p.m.: Spontaneous photo op FEBRUARY 13 feeding frenzy for Ashley Greene and Emmy her. Finally I am elected/volunteered. I take outside DKNY. The three “It” girls: Tamu 10:20 a.m., Carolina Herrera: I see Rossum. One of the crazed shooters gets a deep breath and as politely as possible McPherson, Hanneli Mustaparta and Derek Blasberg sitting second row… too close, Hal pushes him and screams, “I ask her if she would stand for a photo… She Candice Lake. Kiddingly, I say “I’m doing an assignment don’t give a shit—this is bullshit!” Gets up and responds in her proper English accent, “Do 2:27 p.m.: Julian Lennon says he has a on second row because second-row complains to Donna publicist. you mind if I don’t?” So we proceed to track photo exhibition coming up in London… people are cooler than front-row people.” 2:16 p.m.: Deborah Needleman sitting her around snapping candids. everyone’s a photographer. Glenda Baily is sitting in front of Derek and a few seats from Hal Rubenstein… I have 3:55 p.m., DVF: Molly Sims says her baby overhears. Says, “That’s great.” … I say, to get her… gingerly I sneak past Hal and FEBRUARY 10 bump is the best accessory ever... “Don’t steal my idea.” We all have a laugh. snap her... trying not to make eye contact 11:46 p.m. Yigal Party: Talking to Annelise 7:06 p.m.: Zac Posen: I pose Dita Von 12:12 p.m.: To Sky Ferreira: “Hi, great with him or security. Then I get Sally Singer. Peterson about the old days at original Double Teese in front of the giant marble statues of party last nite.” She says, “Party last nite?” Seven after-hours club…When we’d go there nude women at Lincoln Center’s David Koch Confused, then I remember it was Cory 3:05 p.m.: Walking to Philip Lim Show late-nite after covering events… She tells a Theater. Thought that was appropriate. Kennedy I saw. I go back and tell Sky it must with Brit photog Steve Woods, passing story about how she interviewed with the 12:33 a.m.: Courtney Love, a hot mess, have been a really good party... for me :) through the gas station near Milk Studios. president of Gucci and how she went all prim makes her grand entree then goes to the 2:09 p.m.: An email comes in from my He just whips out his willy and takes a

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him to death. This is his first fashion show. 9:50 p.m.: Emma Snowdon-Jones wears a 10:34 p.m., Miu Miu Party: Kate Mara low—VERY low—cut dress. I ask her to lean and Mia Wasikowska doing a photo op and forward. She’s pouring out... I egg her on having fun posing, suddenly a random pr more and more, the photogs are cracking person jumps in and breaks it up. These girls up… she realizes and asks me “Do you just are enjoying posing—why do these pr people want me to take my top off??” and fakes feel they have to control everything? I rarely taking it off… thought she would have. get candid party shots anymore bc of this. 12:08 a.m., Back at the office: Photo team FEBRUARY 16 leaves me a cupcake and a nice Val Day note. 1:52 p.m., Calvin Klein: WWD edit 1:07 a.m.: At hotel, see the pdf of WWD— team hyped up for Rooney Mara. Pressure my Matt Damon pic made it full-page as a is on—I’m the only photog from our team Style cover!! allowed backstage—hope my camera works. I get her with Emma Stone! FEBRUARY 15 9:09 p.m., Guns N’ Roses Fashion 2:24 p.m.: Heard Olsen Twins are coming. Week Finale Party: Total Spinal Tap I tell Lisa Marsh how a few seasons ago I moment. Trying to get in with Anushka at went to shoot their collection The Row… I the Maritime hotel and Hiro. Back hallways felt two hands on my left shoulder then two and tunnels, in elevator that opens to brick hands on my right. It was Mary-Kate and wall… Hello Cleveland!!! Rock ’n’ Roll!!! Ashley, one on each side, leaning on me 12:05 a.m.: Finally GnR comes on—they’re and looking at the display on my camera rocking! I’m jammed up front, two inches to make sure they liked the images I was away from the guitar player... Axel sings in making… A highlight of my career! my face, great photo!!! Then this crazy girl 9:44 p.m.: Nicki Minaj poses with decides to try to seduce Axel... she takes her Lauder’s John Demsey, he produces a bra off, balls it up and throws it at him, he promotional lipstick from his pocket and doesn’t even notice… she turns her attention Kate Winslet tours “CFDA at 50.” she slathers it on... Very hot shot. to me and we dance the nite away!!!

whiz on the pump…now I know why he no longer works for the royal family. 6:08 p.m.: Getting pr briefing on what celebs are expected at Betsey Johnson. She says Eminem so we get excited… then she says, “Oh no, sorry, not the rapper, just a giant costumed M&M candy. They’re sponsors.” 7:40 p.m., Marc Jacobs: Gorgeous set, a work of art, breathtaking… Rachel Feinstein did the design... I overhear her husband John Currin say, “This is what Rachel can do with a million dollars.” 8:21 p.m.: Maria Sharapova publicist sets photo op for me. Dakota Fanning looks adorable, snap her and sit for ambiance in an open seat… get kicked out of seat. WWD’s Bridget Foley rescues me, saved a seat for me. Push my way backstage after show. Madonna rumor never materializes. Get Marc and Dakota—great shot.

FEBRUARY 14 11:01 a.m., Vera Wang: Discussing my love life with Marjorie Gubelmann and Mickey Boardman. I say I prefer dating to marriage. Marjorie quotes Rena Sindi: “There’s happily and there’s married and rarely do the two ever meet.” Something like that. 2:28 p.m.: Matt Damon arrives, quite orderly. Photogs form semicircle around him. He says, “I’ve never been this close to Rooney Mara and Emma Stone at Calvin Klein. you guys,” meaning the paparazzi that stalk

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Natalia Vodianova 22 | Camera Man outside Christian Dior.

Tilda Swinton and Alber Elbaz at the Lanvin after party. Paris Playground PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

Kristen Stewart at the “Louis Vuitton-Marc Jacobs” exhibition at Les Arts Decoratifs.

Willem Dafoe at the Costume National party for Marina Abramovic.

Charlotte Gainsbourg at Balenciaga.

Daphne Guinness at Paco Rabanne.

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Peter Marino at Louis Vuitton.

Sky Ferreira at the Charlotte Givenchy after party. Casiraghi at Gucci.

Katy Perry at Miu Miu.

Bianca Brandolini D’Adda at Dolce & Gabbana.

WWD COLLECTIONS

&2/  6WHSKDQHLQGG 30  &2/0,/(6LQGG at DonnaKaran. at Lima Adriana

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at amfAR.at Lohan Lindsay I | PHOTOGR

n theFlash New York Minutes York New AP H S at amfAR.at Moore Julianne BY MILES LADIN MILES Donna Karan. at Greene Ashley  after party. after Jacobs’ Marc at Fanning Dakota Cynthia Rowley.Cynthia at Hilty Megan and Tyson Chandler Knicks center New York Smash ’s M ILES F OR MOREPHOTOS BY L ADIN, SEE WWD COLLECTIONS WWD WWD.COM 30

MILES LADIN

26 | Fashion on Film

An image from the Giorgio Armani/Luca Guadagnino film One Plus One for spring.

Cinema Italiano Designers all over are going big for film and multimedia presentations, but the Italians might be the most enthusiastic. BY LUISA ZARGANI

hey really want to direct. becomes an essential tool to reach the That could be the mantra for public,” and a way to “illustrate in a Italian designers, as making captivating way the spirit of my work… movieT and video presentations has transforming the atmosphere of my become a marketing priority—and collection in a story.” creative release. Guadagnino has also worked with Fashion houses all over the world Fendi, Cartier and Louis Vuitton, have embraced moving-image and filmed actress Tilda Swinton technology, whether film, video or for Pomellato ads. He collaborated digital. It was a particular feature of with Sergio Rossi creative director the Milan collections this season. Francesco Russo for a steamy

Expanding beyond the confines short film, Skin to Skin, launched LIMA JAMES BY AND DIRECTED TANK K of print, designers are using new, in February and starring Diana high-impact ways to project their Dondoe. Armani is a film-as- vision and style. Cyberspace offers commercial veteran, having worked unlimited access to existing and with Martin Scorsese since 1987. potential customers through one of the most ancient forms of I Stefano Gabbana says films are communication: storytelling. “powerful, especially to tell stories, “Each season, designers create and for us this is wonderful because a story to represent their vision, we always feel full of stories to tell.” their interpretation of the brand Gabbana and Domenico Dolce in a changing world,” says Tomaso asked Italian actors to appear in the Galli, luxury goods consultant and men’s spring campaign and video, founder of Jtg Consulting. Videos while Monica Bellucci and Bianca and moving images in general “have Balti are in the women’s version. become a very powerful tool to The video, called La Bella Estate tell that story” with the success of (The Beautiful Summer), is a tribute new channels of communication, to Italy’s cinema and the Italian, like YouTube. “There’s a unique Mediterranean lifestyle, framed by group of people who understand the sound of water lapping on the and are able to mix fashion and shore and cicadas singing on a hot, Hollywood, animation and art, video lazy summer day—details that are games and advertising, retail and unmistakably Dolce & Gabbana.

architecture, social media and mobile Dolce underscores that films convey SPRING 2012 FOR FILM & GABBANA: 2011; DOLCE LA FALL FOR BELLA ESTATE WEBER communications.” a message with more details, “but that Here’s what some Italian houses message is the same one the brand have been up to, cinematically expresses.” Internet users, he says, are speaking: eager to know as much as possible of the brand and of them as people. “We I For his spring collection, Giorgio like to establish a direct relationship Armani tapped I Am Love director with people through a video, as we’ve Luca Guadagnino for a three-minute always liked to do in real life,” Dolce Prada’s Real Fantasy film for spring was shot by the AMO/ film, called One Plus One. The explains. Gabbana said he doesn’t OMA Rem Koolhaas think tank. designer says, “the image in movement believe films are necessarily trendier ARMANI: LUCA GUADAGNINO STILLS FOR SPRING 2012; PRADA: REAL FANTASY FILM FOR SPRING 2012, MADE BY THE AMO/OMA REM KOOLHAAS THIN KOOLHAAS REM THE AMO/OMA MADE BY SPRING FOR FILM 2012, SPRING FOR 2012; PRADA:STILLS ARMANI: REAL GUADAGNINO FANTASY LUCA BRUCE BY JACKET, THE DON’T STEAL MONCLER: WWD COLLECTIONS

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Dolce & Gabbana’s La Bella Estate for fall.

now “because TV has always been the Bruce Weber’s Don’t Steal the most powerful tool, but luxury never Jacket for Moncler, for spring. found it interesting for various reasons. The fact that videos can be broadcast

K TANK AND DIRECTED BY JAMES LIMA JAMES BY AND DIRECTED TANK K by other means increases their power.”

I Prada has been producing high- level films since 2005’s short Thunder Perfect Mind by Ridley and Jordan Scott, about Amber, its first women’s fragrance. It showed at the Berlin Film Festival that year. Since then, some films were created expressly for TV and the Web, as were the recent “Prada Candy” by Jean Paul Goude starring Léa Seydoux, promoting the namesake fragrance, and Real Fantasy, a film for spring 2012, made by the AMO/OMA Rem Koolhaas think tank and directed by James Lima.

I Moncler chief Remo Ruffini worked with Bruce Weber on a 24-minute film, Don’t Steal the Jacket, “to create more energy compared with a campaign or a classic film.” The movie premiered

WEBER FOR FALL 2011; DOLCE & GABBANA: LA BELLA ESTATE FILM FOR SPRING 2012 FOR FILM & GABBANA: 2011; DOLCE LA FALL FOR BELLA ESTATE WEBER last September and inspired the Next up: Ski champ Manu Gaidet Independent’s spring collection. Its short by experimental filmmaker Italian brand’s fall print campaign. was filmed in action to promote latest collaboration, with Fiat and Kenneth Anger, and Ermenegildo Centered on Weber’s personal Moncler’s ski line. The movie will run Gucci, features five short films about Zegna worked with James Lima on passions, such as dogs, it explores online and on social network sites. the Fiat 500 by Gucci through the what was said to be the first 3-D nature, children and other themes, eyes of Jefferson Hack, Franca Sozzani fashion show, mixing live performance and boasts an original soundtrack by I Lapo Elkann’s communications and Alexi Tan. It kicks off this month’s with cinematic experience. In an American band Radical Something. agency, Independent Ideas, did some Salone del Mobile furniture and association with Hennes & Mauritz, Ruffini says the “Internet is globe-trotting, filming a movie in design show in Milan. Sofia Coppola directed the advertising predisposed to short films—you work Israel, Jordan and the Palestinian film and campaign for the Marni in a different way,” but videos are “not Territories, Be Independent. I Last fall, the Missoni family collection with the giant Swedish high- really an alternative to ads.” Everywhere, to promote Italia appeared in a dreamlike surreal street chain. ARMANI: LUCA GUADAGNINO STILLS FOR SPRING 2012; PRADA: REAL FANTASY FILM FOR SPRING 2012, MADE BY THE AMO/OMA REM KOOLHAAS THIN KOOLHAAS REM THE AMO/OMA MADE BY SPRING FOR FILM 2012, SPRING FOR 2012; PRADA:STILLS ARMANI: REAL GUADAGNINO FANTASY LUCA BRUCE BY JACKET, THE DON’T STEAL MONCLER: WWD COLLECTIONS

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28 Please A I out to be a arrival turned but Armani’s happened, extent that To a large Fashion Week. talent at emerging distract from the week and dominate machine would the Armani complained naysayers the event, Africa. Before fight disease in which helps to (Product) Red, in aid of Bryan Ferry, Razorlight and 50 Cent featured performances by Beyoncé, for-TV extravaganza at Earls Court thatLondon Fashion Week. It was a made- Emporio Armani collection during Giorgio Armani showed his spring 2006. Not everyone was thrilled when be pinned, more or less, to September back tothecity. runways drawing editors and retailers with a renewed interest in the London fashion has been along for the ride, seems to be on everyone’s lips. And phone-hacking scandal—London all been good—e.g., the Murdoch August. Even if the publicity hasn’t and the Summer Olympics in July and Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee in June massive celebrations around Queen continue as the nation prepares for popping up regularly. The festivities and rumors about a royal pregnancy not let up—with all eyes on her style obsession with Kate Middleton has on the royal wedding last year, the After being the hub of global fixation

The kickoff for all this fanfare can | attention is focused on the city. t’s a London Moment.

A rush of international London Time Fashion boosters: Fashion boosters: L ittle Respect, T he Duchess of Cambridge and Samantha Cameron. and Samantha he ofCambridge Duchess its due. its A reenergized London is getting BY BY McCartney and Gareth Pugh, to name Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella lost Vivienne Westwood, John Over the years, the London runways New York, where the money was. their collections in Paris, Milan and big European brand or start showing attention, they’d be snapped up by a started getting press and buyers’ victim of talent drain: Once designers turning point. SAMANTHA CONT SAMANTHA Before then, London was usually the  was, with savvy, London of commercial base and lack manufacturing and expensive living, small high cost of shop. With its afloat, shut up businesses keep their unable to less fortunate, Prada. The Armani or Gucci, Giorgio to work for to Milan transferred while others just a few, I

for the BFC, sitting front row at Cameron is also an official ambassador Wickstead and Christopher Kane. a fan of such labels as Erdem, Emilia the luxury stationers Smythson and graduate, former creative director of in Samantha Cameron, an art school Britain has a fashion-minded first lady on the world stage. For the first time, industry, showcasing British designs have thrown their weight behind the while newly high-profile Britons become far more business-minded, runs London Fashion Week, has The British Fashion Council, which changed, though, for myriad reasons. grounded in business.” Sophia Kokosalaki—but they weren’t Bartley, Hamish Morrow, Preen and out of London—Emma Cook, Luella been some amazing talent coming 20 years. “Over the years, there has London Fashion Week for the past Goodman, has been a regular at his roles at Henri Bendel and Bergdorf managing director at Liberty, who, in opportunity,” says Ed Burstell, anything. London was not a business for ideas, but no one would buy business orforge afashioncareer. designer seriously looking to build a few exceptions, a nonstarter for any London’s fashion fortunes have “Everyone would come here looking and Alexander McQueen, whose Emilia Wickstead, Katherine Hooker end labels: She also wears Burberry, the duchess doesn’t exactly shun high- with sluggish consumer spending. But retailers, who have been struggling needed boost to high-street fashion replicate her look—and giving a much- with women the world over rushing to London. She creates a retail frenzy Bennett and jewelry by Links of by Reiss, shoes and clothes by L.K. fashion, regularly donning dresses advertisement for British high-street and instead has become a walking mother, thelate Princess Diana— clotheshorse—like her husband’s hard not to be seen as a designer of Cambridge. The duchess is trying spotlight: Middleton, now Duchess stylish woman burst into the flying her fashion flag, another for Britishcreativity. opportunities, and a major showcase profile, feel-good story; a source of job summer, fashionhasbecomeahigh- newspaper scandal and the riots last a city battered by the phone-hacking for designers and industry players. In minister’s official London residence, Downing Street, the British prime zingy cocktail parties at Number 10 numerous fashion shows and hosting Not long after Cameron began A A zealia Banks, Poppy Delevingne at Unique. at Delevingne Poppy lexa Chung, Pixie Geldof and London scene: Leigh Lezark, Front-row girls making the WWD COLLECTIONS WWD O livia Palermo, 30

LEZARK/BANKS/PA LERMO/CHUNG/ GELDOF/ DELEVINGNE PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS; THE DUCHESS OF CAM BRIDGE BY INDIGO/ GETTY IMAGES; SAMANTHA CAMERON BY OLIVIER DOU LIERY/ABACA USA /EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT/PRESS ASSO CIATION IMAGES

LONDON SHOWROOMS PHOTO BY JOHN SCIULLI; CHRISTO PHER KANE BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF BY IAN GAVAN/ GETTY IMAGES LEZARK/BANKS/PALERMO/CHUNG/GELDOF/DELEVINGNE PHOTO BY TIM JE NKINS; THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE BY INDIGO/GETTY IMAGES; SAMANTHA CAMERON BY OLIVIER DOULIERY/ABACA USA/EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES &2/  /RQGRQLQGG

LONDON SHOWROOMS PHOTO BY JOHN SCIULLI; CHRISTOPHER KANE BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF BY IAN GAVAN/GETTY IMAGES millions of pounds in her long career sharp businesswoman who’d made design pack. In 2005, Hilary Riva, a momentum behind London’s neatly coincided with the growing Cameron and Middleton has famously madeherweddinggown. creative director Sarah Burton J.W. Anderson showing. Anderson J.W. including Hardy Amies, E. Tautz and fashion week, with design houses will launch a twice-yearly men’s summer, the British Fashion Council publishing orautomobileindustries. U.K. economy—twice as much as the billion pounds, or $33.4 billion, to theThe industry contributes about 21 that money coming from abroad. each season, with three-quarters of $159 million, worth of orders is placed that more than 100 million pounds, or to leave London. The BFC estimates according to the BFC. a 52 percent increase in attendance, available), London Fashion Week saw and September 2011 (the latest figures shows. Between September 2006 and press started attending the deliveries, more international buyers perfecting their fits, finishes and started thinking more commercially, the talent turn a profit. As designers worldwide—with the aim of helping takes designers’ collections to cities such as London Show Rooms, which schemes— mentoring andmarketing and back awards, sponsorships, expenses for foreign press and buyers, to use government funds to help pay expert, Caroline Rush—continues sharp marketer and public relations catwalks of Milan and New York. and Antonio Berardi back from the Burberry, Matthew Williamson had managed to woo labels including in 2009, she and her team at the BFC anniversary of London Fashion Week to the British capital, and by the 25th welcomed Armani and his entourage a year after her appointment, Riva to London Fashion Week. Less than to attract British—and foreign—talent sales and profits a priority, and set out executive officer of the BFC. She made street companies, took over as chief managing, buyingandsellinghigh- WWD COLLECTIONS WWD And there’s a growth story: Over the Today, local talent is no longer forced The BFC—now run by an equally The rise of the fashion-minded synonymous withcool—butgrown- based in London. “The city is now freelance fashion consultant and stylist says Elizabeth Saltzman, an American York to become designers anymore,” don’t have to go to Paris and New press alike buzzingabouttheweek. presentation. It black-tie dinner and eveningwear Britain’s Olympic athletes with a her role designing the uniforms for fall, and Stella McCartney celebrated During the week, Tom Ford showed launching collections in the city. were among houses moving or Cheap and Chic, Belstaff and McQ foreign talent to the shows. Moschino drawing a host of new local and harnessed that feel-good mood, pounds, or$14.6 billion,by2015. target to achieve forecasts of 9.1 billion percent this year, and overall, it is on industry is expected to grow 8.5 revealed that the British luxury Mulberry and Jimmy Choo, also from such brands as Burberry, Benchmark Study. Walpole & Ledbury 2012 U.K. Luxury increase” in sales, according to the Olympics will drive a “double-digit their sales, while 20 percent say the Jubilee to have a positive impact on luxury brands are expecting the retailers. Nearly 60 percent of British to be a boon to fashion and luxury the Summer Olympics are expected —Suzanne Timmins,Hudson’s BayCo. AGAINST ANY LUXEBRANDINPARIS ANDMILAN.” “NOW YOU CAN HOLD!LONDON UP " COLLECTIONS features London designers. London features Hudson’s at The Room Bay February’s London Fashion Week The study, which included feedback Meanwhile, the Queen’s Jubilee and “London works. Talented people all had buyers and  up—edginess, in-house line Freda entirely in the specialty chain Matches, source their Tom and Ruth Chapman, owners of houses to make a better product. collaborating closer with fashion has tobejustasgood,ifnotbetter.” without the ad budget—so the product withGucciandPrada—competing of the size of your business, you’re still any luxebrandinParis andMilan.” can hold these collections up against Schwab and Katrantzou. “Now you Erdem, Saunders, Giles, Marios luxury space with labels like Kane, The Room, the store’s avant-garde who showcases London designers in London was lacking, says Timmins, it luxurious enough?” The quality in past, you’d think, I love this, but is major difference: quality. “In the of Eighties London, with one says the energy reminds her director of Hudson’s Bay Co., edge.” and “Attitude and print development: London seeking innovation and Thomas Tait, comes to Pilotto, Burberry Prorsum labels as Erdem, Peter brisk business with such the store, which does a at Saks Fifth Avenue, says senior fashion director intensely wearable.” and clothing that is And the factories themselves are Giles Deacon agrees. “Regardless Suzanne Timmins, fashion Colleen Sherin, Christopher Kane Armani comestotown. little time lessthreatenedthenext maydesign talent—London feela throw theirweightbehindthe If thosemanagersdoemerge—and future fashionbusinessmanagers. andthegroomingof manufacturers, themandlocal bonds between forrisingdesigners,tighter support to theneedforincreasedbusiness Considerations forGrowth,” pointed “Futurereport, ofFashion: Strategic faces challenges.In February, aBFC buyers tohopaplaneHeathrow. Twitter, instead of relying on press andlive-streaming, social networking and audiences via the Web, bloggers, now communicate directly with global profile of London’s designers, who can They’re open to creativity, new ideas.” factories really want to do a good job: small factories in East London. British U.K. Says Ruth, “We work a lot with world. around the fashion British showcases Showrooms London Despite these strides, London still Despite thesestrides,London New media has also boosted the Kirchoff Meadham

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29 30 30 | The big-money lure of go- The Financials ing public. By Evan Clark stockholders money: growth. Since it’s harder to move the needle at a bigger company, size can be a disadvantage. That helps explain Taking the IPO Plunge Prada’s reception in the market. By the end of March, the company, which last year had revenues of 2.6 billion The big-money lure of going public. BY EVAN CLARK euros, or $3.5 billion at average exchange, had seen its stock gain 28 percent since its June IPO. That’s well all Street is calling. ahead of the market, but still behind Ferragamo, which So are investors in Hong Kong. was up 60.2 percent since its IPO the same month. And Milan. With revenues of 986.4 million euros, or $1.4 billion, WMichael Kors is shouting, “Come on in, the Ferragamo is simply seen as having more room to water’s great!” If he’s not actually shouting, his newly expand. And Kors, a Wall Street darling with an 86 acquired personal fortune is—and loudly. percent stock gain since its December offering, logged a The designer is well on his way to being a top line of just $373.6 million last year. billionaire. Shares of Michael Kors Holdings have “Institutional investors are looking for exponential about doubled in value since its December initial growth across sectors, and this is something you can public offering and Kors has already cashed out sell via fashion, in particular with emerging markets,” hundreds of millions of dollars in stock. Here’s how the market capitalization math adds says Laurent Feniou, a managing director at There’s very good money in taking a company up in fashion, give or take $100 million.* Rothschild in London. “You don’t see many successful public, but life under the microscope of Wall Street shareholders and refocus the company under private IPOs from fashion companies because there is a is not for everyone. In fact, it’s not for most, despite ownership. It is easier to make big changes away from sweet spot, which is a mix of a very strong financial efforts in Washington to crack the door open wider the watchful eyes of investors. profile and an exciting brand. The two need to go and make it easier for small companies to raise And what about the head of the company hand in hand. People will jump into the [profit and money through IPOs. considering an IPO? Does the founder or chief loss statement] to start with, and if they’re excited by Some companies should never go public. And even executive officer want to control everything and not the p&l, they’ll say, ‘OK, what is the brand?’” those that fit the bill and have room to stretch out listen to everyone else? Do they run the company like Even though the equation for investors consists need to carefully sell themselves to shareholders. a personal fiefdom with cousins and in-laws doubling mostly of hard numbers and projections, there’s Fashion firms that lose money should not go public. as key suppliers and division heads? also a touch of sex and excitement. “Small apparel companies generally are not If so, this will show up under the heading of “These are story stocks, rather than industrial, profitable,” says investor Laurence C. Leeds Jr., “certain relationships and related-party transactions” hard-number-driven stocks,” says Jonathan Low, a chairman of Buckingham Capital Management. in the company’s IPO paperwork. The goal, according partner and co-founder of consulting firm Predictiv. “When they’re small, they generally don’t belong in to one longtime retail banker, is to have nothing to “It’s not like industrial chemicals where it’s a matter the public market.” report on the topic. “It’s just a no-no” to have pages Tech start-ups might get a pass on profitability, and pages of disclosures, the banker says. but investors largely want to put their greenbacks, This is one area where the Kors IPO gets euros and Hong Kong dollars into companies that middling marks. Most significantly, the brand’s are making money. That’s been the case with Kors business in China is tied up with licensing in New York, Salvatore Ferragamo in Milan and agreements that last until 2041. That gives much Prada in Hong Kong. of the benefit of the market’s dynamic growth to a Restructuring? Overhauling your distribution separate firm controlled by Kors, chairman and ceo network or supply chain? Taking on a big John Idol and a company controlled by investors IT upgrade? Trying to figure out, on some Silas Chou and Lawrence Stroll. fundamental level, who you are or who your That Kors has been able to garner a market customer is or how you can serve them? capitalization of nearly $9 billion—even with the Stop. Wait. Don’t think about it. Not yet. China business carved out—has investment bankers, of volume times competition times growth. There Look at Kenneth Cole Productions Inc.—an early retailers and other designers all licking their chops is a little bit of romance that you find with investors entrant in the designer IPO game. The company lost and reevaluating how much brands are worth, in Broadway shows and film joint ventures. But its traction for a while, took a stab at a licensing-heavy pushing asking prices up. fundamentally, there needs to be a basis to the story.” model and now Kenneth Cole wants to buy out other Fashion investor John Howard calls it the One important X factor in a fashion company’s “Michael Kors effect.” future is how a brand’s aesthetic plays overseas. “Everybody just shakes their head…and says, ‘If “To the extent that there is a real growth story, then Michael Kors is worth that, I’m worth this,’” Howard you go global. Then the question is, Can this translate says. “It’s like everybody’s a little crazy.” into China and to a lesser extent India and Brazil and Even if others make a run at it, not every brand will then Asia generally?” Low says.

be able to sell themselves as well as Michael Kors. The consultant sees this as a central question for ANSKI M E

There are only a few brands—Kors is one, Tory Tory Burch should she take her company public— L Burch is another—that are established enough to despite the company’s repeated assertions that it’s not be a safe bet for investors while still having room looking to dip into the open markets. to expand. A successful pitch to investors depends “Tory Burch appeals to a certain type of American almost solely on the one thing that will reliably make female consumer,” Low says. “Is that going to ILLUSTRATIONS: MIKE ILLUSTRATIONS:

*Market capitalizations given in U.S. dollars, according to Google Finance, March 30. WWD COLLECTIONS

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his John Idol, just like Calvin Klein had his co- founder Barry Schwartz and Ralph Lauren has his operations chief Roger Farah. To ultimately go public, the business half of the equation has to not only create a good company that is growth-orientated and attuned to investors, it also has to talk the talk. That’s why it is often private equity companies familiar with the regulation-laden process that are going to the public markets. Texas Pacific Group and translate in Europe, let alone Asia? Do they have to Warburg Pincus took Neiman Marcus Inc. private but at the same time realistically?” says Berglass, tart it up a bit to make that connection, and if so, do in 2005 and are expected to return the company to summing up the key questions for a ceo taking a they lose the fundamental stylish-but-understated public hands sometime soon. J. Crew Group Inc. has company public. nature of the brand, which has worked hugely well cycled in and out of the public markets. “It’s looking at the same business through a for them in the United States?” Running a public company requires a different set of filters. In some sense, it’s city mouse Most bankers feel the Tory Burch brand, with sales considerably different skill than leading a private versus country mouse,” he says. “If your ceo was born estimated at more than $450 million, has a broad enterprise. Les Berglass, chairman of executive in the sales area you’re going to have a real challenge enough appeal to keep growing. search firm Berglass + Associates, says it’s a because they’re a natural salesman and the thing The head of a fashion company is also expected transition not every ceo can make. you want to do is manage the expectations of the to look and act a certain way, and Burch delivers. “Do they show well? Are they attractive to the investment community.” The designer’s persona is a studied take on investment community? And can they go on a And there it is, the big difference. Philadelphia Main Line sophistication spiked with road show and tell the same story enthusiastically, The early investors who sell shares in an IPO a hard-nosed business approach. She reaches out can reap such great rewards because they’re regularly to her customers on Twitter and has also giving up control. Public companies are beholden been cautiously extending a hand to investors. For to investors who have expectations that need instance, she’s scheduled to speak at the upcoming to be addressed—often in big ways, because big Financial Times luxury summit in Marrakech—a investors like big numbers. somewhat curious forum given the company’s “They want to make a billion off of a $100 stated desire to remain private. million investment,” says Mike Moriarty, a partner As both an artistic and a commercial endeavor, in A.T. Kearney’s retail practice. “Everybody’s lazy. fashion requires two distinct skill sets that often The only people in these markets who are not lazy show up in teams. Michael Kors, who has fueled are the designers. Wall Street has nothing to do his brand with his Project Runway celebrity, has with creativity.”

The L Word LVMH’s investment arm quietly keeps busy. BY ALEX WYNN

hoever said “where there’s $531 million at current exchange, and a by our sponsor, even if we [have] focused external markets,” Piette says. smoke, there’s fire” knew nothing new guessing game began. our investment strategy on affordable Since L Capital’s 2010 purchase of a Wof the private equity market. Piette remains tight-lipped about his luxury, and not on core luxury brands.” stake in French company Groupe SMCP, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton– plans for the third fund, saying that almost According to sources, midmarket which controls contemporary fashion backed investment vehicle L Capital nobody outside the firm gets to know European companies that might be brands Sandro, Maje and Claudie Management, which specializes in about its investments before they happen. looking for financing include U.K.-based Pierlot, the three brands have significantly midmarket fashion and lifestyle brands, He reveals, though, that L Capital is retail jeweler Aurum, French dancewear expanded their retail footprint, notably is a case in point. Barely a week goes by looking at lingerie and catering businesses and shoemaker Repetto, lingerie maker in the U.S. “This year, I think we will have without the firm being linked in the press as well as a jewelry and watch company. La Perla and high-end linen brand Frette. increased the revenues of the company by or by rumor mills to this or that company. L Capital maintains something of a “We try to look at businesses that are 70 percent since 2010,” Piette says. “Its But when Daniel Piette, L Capital’s niche—specialized in investments in the solid, with a strong history, good growth performance is excellent.” chairman and an LVMH collaborator fashion, accessories, cosmetics and lifestyle and profitability,” Piette says. “We do not Other firms currently in L Capital’s for the past 21 years, describes the sectors as well as selective retail—and do business turnarounds. We do not do portfolio include Spanish denim house process involved in selecting the firm’s Piette claims that its positioning is unique. venture capital.” Pepe Jeans, accessories licensee TWC investments, it becomes clear that it’s “I do not know of any other Piette anticipates investing in an L’Amy Group, Italian denim manufacturer not quite so simple. multinational specialized funds in the average of two businesses in Europe Dondup, furniture maker Calligaris, “Experience has proved that you have midsize-company segment,” he says. each of the next three to four years U.K.-based Princess Yachts and French to look at about 150 projects to find “Traditionally, international private equity through the new fund. apparel direct seller Captain Tortue. 75 that are worth a closer look, which firms are multi-industrial, while specialized L Capital helps the companies it As for selling any of its investments, ANSKI

M leads to making around 10 offers, and funds are almost always national. We are a invests in with strategy, recruitment, retail Piette offers that, “When we sell a E L those 10 offers will result in two or three specialized fund with a global purpose. development and international expansion, business, it is always because we think we investments, no more,” he says in an “This is our will, but it is also due to he notes, something that a nonspecialized are going to make a certain capital gain. interview in his Paris office. where we come from: LVMH Group. Our firm would be less equipped to do. Clearly, the higher the better, but we are L Capital Europe revealed in February vision when the firm was created in 2001 “Being close to LVMH also brings us very satisfied when we sell a company that it had closed its third round of was primarily not to interest ourselves in access to its prominent expertise in that allows us to make two or two-and-a- funding, worth 400 million euros, or other product families than those produced developing activities and networks on half times our initial investment.” ILLUSTRATIONS: MIKE ILLUSTRATIONS: WWD COLLECTIONS

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company’s staggering market capitalization. Floriane de Saint Pierre, who runs a Paris-based executive search firm and consultancy, notes that The Big Brand Era Sander and Pilati were each “replaced by an even bigger name.” Still, she argues that the key element What Happens when houses square off against designers? BY MILES SOCHA today isn’t fame but about “matching talent that is right for a brand, and at a particular time.” According to Karl Lagerfeld, who designs for Fendi and Chanel in addition to his new masstige re brands today more powerful than the rest of my life, I am pretty sure I have the energy and range, Karl, and upscale signature line Karl designers behind them? the knowledge at least to try to do something relevant, Lagerfeld Paris—the latter two feted during Paris It’s a complicated question that hung something that is part of what people need.”) Fashion Week—“the designer should think about the Aover a turbulent fall collections season headlined “There is no job guarantee for a fashion designer label before he thinks about himself because if that is by designer comings and goings at Yves Saint any more than a ceo in today’s fashion world,” the problem he shouldn’t accept this kind of job. Laurent, Jil Sander and Tod’s, among others. observes Agnès Barret, principal of Agent Secret, “The name of a designer next to the name of the The brand-versus-designer debate was reignited a Paris-based search firm specializing in creative label imposed by the designer for the press etc., is back in March 2011 with the ouster of John Galliano talent. “Besides media and financial success, a something I am very much against. Chanel is Chanel. at Christian Dior over anti-Semitic and racist fashion designer must have a strong relationship Fendi is Fendi,” he continues. “It’s my job to do the outbursts—and it festered and fizzled as the search with the shareholder and the brand.” image of the companies, and not go on an ego trip.” for a successor clicked past the one-year mark. According to luxury advisor Concetta Lanciaux, Lagerfeld, who early in his career designed for At press time for this magazine, luxury titan former advisor to LVMH, the linchpin purpose such houses as Jean Patou and Pierre Balmain, Bernard Arnault announced that Raf Simons, fired of a designer today is to strengthen the identity notes that, “in the past, you never knew who was from Jil Sander a month earlier and replaced by of a luxury brand, with perhaps less freedom to behind the brands.” More recently, brand owners the founder, would become Dior’s new couturier, experiment than in past decades. This is due partly considered a known designer an asset “as an suggesting that a distinctive designer with a huge press to emerging markets and their thirst for highly element of promotion. That is over in a way, but following is still a valuable asset for a heritage brand. identifiable products from famous houses. the labels still need good designers.” “Following the legacy of its founder, Raf Simons’ In Lagerfeld’s estimation, “the brand is the journey with the house of Dior will propel its iconic guarantee of quality” and “bad decisions” concerning style into the 21st century,” Dior said in announcing designer choices “normally don’t last long.” his appointment as artistic director of women’s haute The German-born, Paris-based designer resolutely couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections. For “IT’S MY JOB TO DO THE IMAGE stands in the if-you-can’t-stand-the-heat camp when it his part, Simons tells WWD, “When I’m married to OF THE COMPANIES, AND NOT GO comes to designers who complain about the pressures a house, I will fully embrace its original intention, its and workload of today’s global fashion brands. original heritage and meaning.” ON AN EGO TRIP.” !KARL LAGERFELD “In this kind of top job, you are never the A range of observers—from designers and retailers victim—you may only have overestimated yourself,” to headhunters—argue that the weight of power has he says. “Stay an independent label and battle if shifted in recent years from designers to brands. “We have seen recently most of the luxury brands you have such an ego problem. But don’t take other In fact, some went so far as to say that the most respond to this need and seek to strengthen their people’s money and then think you are the victim.” powerful asset of brands in today’s digital age is DNA and their codes,” she explains, lauding Dolce De Saint Pierre allows that a decade or so ago, their audience, assembled digitally and allowing & Gabbana for returning to its Sicilian fashion brands were drawn to famous designers to bring them to practically bypass traditional media—and roots and stripping out any “confusing element,” heat to their dusty businesses, whereas the key even the fashion trends du jour. including its second line, D&G. question they ask themselves today is “whether the To be sure, the changes that occurred in February Ditto for Ferragamo, Versace and Prada. person is right for the brand” and the right “voice were a reminder that hired guns are just that: They have become “more and more iconic,” for the community” brands have assembled in the employees who can be turfed and replaced at will. Lanciaux asserts, adding that the “strong, iconic, digital age. “Before, the asset was the product; Indeed, until Dior’s announcement, two seasoned recognizable element has earned the brand now, the asset is the community,” she stresses. talents with considerable acclaim—Simons and Michael Kors a market value of $9 billion.” Within this context, consumers expect products Stefano Pilati, for eight years the designer at YSL— She reasons that Jil Sander and YSL “have that are “true to brand” rather than “the latest were out of high-profile jobs, fanning debate on followed precisely this road” in hiring Sander trend” when they go to powerful luxury houses. the place of designers in a world of powerful brand and Slimane respectively, “who both promise to The latter are “design driven” but forego chasing names and onerous business imperatives. strengthen the identity of the brands” and update trends, leaving that to mass-market players, De It also underscored that a stop-and-go career them. “These houses perceive that Pilati and Saint Pierre explains. seems to be a new fact of life in the industry, Simons, as good as they are, did not reinterpret the Likening brands to books that can endure over with major talents taking sabbaticals between brand’s DNA as it is perceived in their consumers’ centuries, Pierre-Yves Roussel, ceo of the fashion brand-driven assignments. Indeed, Simons’ and minds. Of course, time will tell if these houses were division at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, says Pilati’s successors—Sander at Jil Sander and Hedi right, but this is why they did it.” designers are charged with writing new and exciting Slimane at YSL—each arrive at their respective Given the ascendance of brands, it would be chapters, which means they must reinvent themselves houses with stints away from fashion’s spotlight. easy to declare the end of the “star” designer era. along the way—or risk replacement themselves. (Pilati recently hinted at an eventual fashion Yet that’s hardly the case, as Kors’ fame—fanned “Everything starts from the vision of the brand, comeback: “Unless I decide to stay on vacation for the by his television profile—surely underpins his which is really the pillar of everything. It doesn’t PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTO WWD COLLECTIONS

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start from the casting of a creative director or the names—including a disastrous stint involving brand-building Web sites, Burberry, and see how the hiring of a ceo,” he explains. “There’s a creative pasties with tabloid sensation Lindsay Lohan— name Burberry is bigger than the creative director. vision and a business vision and all of that has to be before finally reducing the company to a licensing Christopher Bailey’s name is not even mentioned on articulated….As long as the vision of the brand is operation. Givenchy and Celine also weathered its site. Brand building is theater, it’s an experience clear, you stick to it.” lackluster businesses under a range of designers— and it makes the customer want to buy because of its Jean-Jacques Picart, a Paris-based consultant, uses from Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald intrinsic value, sometimes more important than the an opera-house analogy to describe how the industry for the former, Roberto Menichetti for the latter— product itself.” has evolved: Today, fashion designers are no longer before reinventing the brands with the hot talents Within the hothouse climate of the international divas on stage or soloists, but rather conductors in of Riccardo Tisci and Phoebe Philo. collections, it’s easy to forget that people like Slimane, the pit, orchestrating teams of designers to work Peter Copping, who has nimbly steered Nina Sanders and Simons are not household names. It’s a respectfully in service of a brand image. Ricci back to Parisian femininity after Olivier fact reflected in social media. YSL, for example, boasts “It’s much more a matter of stimulating, Theyskens had taken it to places Goth and more than 920,000 “likes” on Facebook versus about inspiring, asking the best of [their teams] and futuristic, says loyalty to a brand’s legacy is key. 9,000 on Slimane’s official page. making them work coherently,” Picart says. “More “I always say I’m not working for myself. I work for Even young designer brands seem willing to chart than ever, the creative director must their futures without their founding be implicated in the strategy, the creator. Executives at Simon Spurr, vision of the company.” Stefano Pilati on the YSL a men’s wear label founded in New When Tom Ford resigned as runway for the last time. York in 2006, recently indicated creative director of Gucci Group they plan to continue developing the in 2003, Picart recalls a sky-is- label following the recent exit of its falling sentiment. Indeed, he was namesake designer. fielding a call on his cell phone from Helmut Lang, meanwhile, has a prominent New York journalist found a thriving second life as a hot about Gucci’s future prospects as contemporary brand under Link he observed two women in front Theory Holdings, despite the 2005 of the Italian brand’s Rue Royale exit of the Austrian fashion maverick. shop eyeing a bag in the window— “The supremacy of the brand is and going inside for a closer look, more important then relying on attracted by its design qualities rather one person,” stresses Holt Renfrew’s than the sexy designer behind it. Atkin. “Brand awareness, image, “Of course the brand is more trust and reputation built up over the important today than any designer, years are the best guarantee of future but the brand needs the soul of a earnings and customer loyalty.” designer,” he says. Asked if the buying public in her Several observers characterized region cares about who is actually many brand/designer partnerships as leading the design team at major brands, perfect matches in which designers Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong strengthen and update brand identity Kong–based Lane Crawford, replied: through continual renewal. These “No, it’s all about the product and include Lagerfeld at Chanel, who design. The initial interest of a perceived tirelessly plays with the French house’s ‘hot new’ or publicly well-known name iconic tweed jackets, camellias, plays designer moving to a brand or house on black-and-white and boyish allure. might cause initial interest to look at the Other examples include Marc Jacobs brand, but if the ‘product’ is not there at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquiere they will not be blinded by a name.” at Balenciaga, Tomas Maier at Bottega Rutson agrees that brand DNA— Veneta and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. Nina Ricci. My personal aesthetic and taste leans very made relevant to the times—is paramount. “Fol- Lanciaux notes that in the past, when closely towards Nina Ricci, so it automatically makes lowing ‘trends of the season’ is almost a trite way brands were of a smaller scale, a designer could for a good fit,” he says. “There are brands that have to run a business at a certain level,” she says. “superimpose his vision to the DNA of the brand, stood for something in the past, and are either still According to Lanciaux, “brand heritage and and if this was good enough, it worked and even relevant or you have to make it relevant for today.” coherence, products expressing the DNA and refreshed the brand.” Examples of this would Retailers agree that the power in the industry codes are what the new customers want more than include John Galliano at Givenchy and later Dior, has shifted toward brands—and that consumers ever.” A designer’s “durability will depend on their and Ford at Gucci. Ford, now piloting a signature are lapping it up. “As luxury brands recognize the capacity to reinterpret the brand—rather than brand, showed a fall-winter women’s collection in power of social media as a tool to connect with their simply interpret it. Not all designers can do this.” London that was reminiscent of the sexed-up tough customers, it is becoming apparent how the brand is Lagerfeld is perhaps the ultimate master at chic he once plied at Gucci. taking on a bigger-than-ever persona—much bigger juggling, joking in a fax: “I work for three different Fashion’s revolving door certainly spins freely then an individual person,” explains Barbara Atkin, brands with three completely different identities. when designers are way off brand message. vice president of fashion direction at Toronto-based It never overlaps because I have no ‘personality’….I Emanuel Ungaro chewed through a range of Holt Renfrew. “Just go on one of the world’s best have three…ha, ha, ha.” PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTO WWD COLLECTIONS

&2/  6DEEDWLFDOVLQGG 30  34 | The Line Backer WHO IS RON BURKLE AND WHY DOES HE LOVE FASHION? A very private mogul has growing interests in the world of style. BY LISA LOCKWOOD

onald W. Burkle, chairman The mercurial nature of fashion and wonder whether he could Spoke collection. Yucaipa’s jewelry and chief executive officer just might extend beyond his someday end up owning the luxury holdings are Garrard, the U.K.’s of Yucaipa Cos., the Los comfort zone. Nevertheless, while retailer and whether that is, in fact, Crown jeweler for more than 150 AngelesR investment firm, may like to Burkle fiercely guards his privacy, his endgame plan. Yucaipa currently years, which it reportedly bought dabble in the fashion category—but there’s no question he’s becoming a owns 38.5 percent of Barneys New for between $20 million and $30 he doesn’t like to talk about it. bigger player in the world of style— York’s term loan and 66 percent of million, and Stephen Webster Despite investments in some not necessarily as a leading character the mezzanine facility. As reported, LLC, a high-end jewelry designer high-profile names, the billionaire yet, but more like a guardian angel. Barneys hired law firm Kirkland with a mostly celebrity clientele, of Burkle still remains something of The 59-year-old, who shuns ties and & Ellis LLP to help renegotiate which Yucaipa bought close to 50 a newcomer to the sector. And his favors polo shirts and cargoes, owns its $200 million revolving credit percent in 2007. Both businesses choices so far defy a discernible a Boeing 757 and currently resides loan due in September. It may also are apparently on the upswing, with pattern or specific strategy. One in London. The divorced father of need to reduce other debt primarily active jewelry buying in Russia and thing is certain: He has a taste for held by Burkle and hedge-fund the Middle East. It was rumored risk, investing in the cash-hungry manager Richard Perry. The debt that Yucaipa was bidding on John label or the turnaround project. That load is mostly attributed to Istithmar Varvatos’ business, which was owned wouldn’t necessarily classify Burkle OBSERVERS SEE A BARNEYS World’s takeover of Barneys five by VF Corp., but that was acquired as a bottom-fisher, but he seems DEBT!EQUITY SWAP AS BEING years ago that burdened it with an by Lion Capital LLC, and Yucaipa more than willing to invest in the additional $500 million in debt. had also reportedly been negotiating not-so-sure thing in exchange for PARTICULARLY APPEALING Lloyd Greif, president and ceo of last year for Catherine Malandrino, longer-term ownership. Greif & Co., an investment firm that which ended up being acquired by As a serious investor whose TO BURKLE, GIVEN HIS ES! has done deals with Burkle, believes Elie Tahari and Arthur S. Levine. company has done some $30 billion TABLISHED TASTE FOR RETAIL that if the opportunity to buy One fashion investment that in transactions, ranging from buying Barneys presents itself, Burkle would Yucaipa no longer has is the debt- and selling grocery chains to owning BUSINESSES AND INTERNA! be an interested party. “If you buy laden American Apparel, which it a percentage of the Pittsburgh TIONAL POTENTIAL FOR THE the debt, it means you believe in the sold off last year. Penguins, there’s no question Burkle underlying asset if the opportunity Interestingly, Burkle’s network has enough money to invest wherever BARNEYS IMPRIMATUR presented itself. If the price was of fashion executives are sworn he feels like it. Fashion currently attractive, I think he would step to secrecy about him. Several accounts for a small percentage— up,” says Greif. “He’s certainly in the contacted by WWD declined to be under 1 percent of Yucaipa’s vast three children is a major Democratic catbird seat if the opportunity arose.” interviewed unless they had Burkle’s holdings. But it’s a highly visible 1 fund-raiser and was once known for Observers see a Barneys debt- personal blessing. Susan Davidson, percent, as evidenced by such brands his close friendship with Bill Clinton, equity swap as being particularly ceo of Scoop, who also oversees as Sean John, Scoop, Garrard and Zac whom Burkle hired as a consultant appealing to Burkle, given his Zac Posen as ceo; Susan Posen, Posen, with his latest investment in after his presidency to help him established taste for retail businesses former chairman of Zac Posen;

the sector an intriguing purchase of identify possible investments, as and international potential for the Stefani Greenfield, former president M Barneys New York’s debt. well as his friendships with Bono Barneys imprimatur. of Scoop and now chief creative Forbes’ list of the 400 Richest and Leonardo DiCaprio. Burkle told Elsewhere, Yucaipa’s significant officer of the Jones Group; Robert Americans puts Burkle at No. 107 Michael Gross, author of Unreal investment in Sean John may be J. Wichser, who oversaw Yucaipa’s with an estimated net worth of $3.2 Estate (Broadway Books, 2011), ready to bear fruit, as the brand fashion portfolio until 2009 and ATRICKMCMULLIN.CO billion. The elusive billionaire declined a book about California’s glittery, continues to grow through its Macy’s is now ceo of Varvatos, and Jeff P several requests for interviews cutthroat real estate world, that distribution. And in the past year, Tweedy, executive vice president of about his fashion holdings for this he has about 15 houses. “They’re Yucaipa has seen some good results Sean John, were among those who story. Curiously, his spokesman said just scattered around. I’m either by from its 100 percent ownership of declined to discuss Burkle. if we wanted to discuss his other myself or with a thousand people. I Scoop, which is in the midst of a “He struck me as a guy who has ATRICK MCMULLIN/ P

investments, such as Whole Foods travel all the time so I don’t really live turnaround. Zac Posen, after some a lot of fun being Ron Burkle,” says Y B Market, Barnes & Noble or the anywhere,” says Burkle, in the book. management upheaval, is growing author Michael Gross, who spent logistics company he owns, Americold Market sources are very curious its international distribution and several hours interviewing him Logistics, he’d be more inclined to talk. about Burkle’s holdings in Barneys, adding classifications through its Z for his book. “That has brought BURKLE PHOTO PHOTO BURKLE WWD COLLECTIONS

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FASHION HOLDINGS him some attention. I don’t think Sean John the retail component. One source ‘unwanted’ applies, but more Scoop believes Burkle likes the fashion ‘uncomfortable,’ applies,” he said. In Garrard sector because “it’s fun and sexy and THE TOYS his book, Gross writes about several of Zac Posen exciting,” and “always changing.” Burkle’s tony properties, including the Stephen Webster Boeing 757 But some have questioned whether Barneys London Home Harold Lloyd estate in Beverly Hills Burkle actually knows anything about Harold Lloyd Estate called Greenacres, which he bought JUST FOR FUN running a high-end jewelry company in 1993 and has been the setting Pittsburgh Penguins such as Garrard, or for that matter, of many Democratic fund-raisers. Soho House the companies comprising his other Barbra Streisand performed there fashion investments. He does tend to for Bill Clinton and the Eagles played put strong people in charge and relies for Al Gore during his presidential on them to turn the businesses around. run. “He has a taste for supertrophy BIG STUFF While Burkle doesn’t get involved real estate,” says Gross. In fact, last Americold Logistics in the day-to-day management of summer, Burkle purchased another Whole Foods his fashion holdings, he does get trophy estate—the Frank Lloyd Barnes & Noble involved in the big decisions. He’s Wright–designed Ennis House for MEDIA/TECH described as “a real strategist” who just under $4.5 million, which he Relativity Media takes different positions, depending planned to continue restoring. With Black Book Media on the particular company and its architecture inspired by a Mayan Airbnb needs. In certain companies, he’s temple, it was constructed from Artist Group Int’l. more active than in others. Burkle FRIENDS/ADVISORS 27,000 concrete blocks. Foursquare may hold onto a company for more Flipboard In the last few months, Burkle Bill Clinton than 20 years, or he may hold onto has been raising his profile in the Burkle Leonardo DiCaprio it for a short period of time, said Bono entertainment industry. In December, one source. In every deal he does, he Yucaipa bought a 60 percent stake World seeks influence, if not control. in Soho House, a New York–based “Ron Burkle is an extremely members-only club with restaurants, astute investor. Before turning to clubs and hotels in such cities as apparel, he made extremely profitable Miami Beach, Los Angeles, London software arm, Access Network. for the underdog? Does he simply investments in the supermarket and Berlin, and in late March closed Burkle once explained his like a long shot or see a cut-rate industry,” says Gilbert Harrison, on its purchase of Soho House’s acquisition strategy to Bloomberg ticket to ownership? chairman of Financo Inc. “His people building at 29-35 Ninth Avenue, Business Week: “We always try to Says one investment banker, are involved in these companies— which also houses the restaurant buy companies that are doing OK “He has a taste for value. He’s Sean John, Scoop and Zac Posen— Spice Market, for $81 million. In but that have some issues. We buy looking to find the right gems that and he keeps in direct contact with the January, it acquired Artist Group at a price that if they just muddle are undervalued.” principals, the people whose names International, which books acts such through, we don’t go broke. And if To date, most of Burkle’s fashion are on the door. His staff on Sunset as Billy Joel, Metallica, Linkin Park, they do better, we make a lot. Since investments seem random without Boulevard in Beverly Hills is extremely Def Leppard, Motley Crue and Rod I was 13, I’ve been buying things any real synergies bringing them knowledgeable. But sometimes I Stewart, among others. Yucaipa also because they are ridiculously cheap. together. Unlike his grocery store can’t follow the total rationale in their bought a significant equity stake in I tell my people, ‘Don’t explain what investments, which made him a investments when they go buy jewelry, Relativity Media, a film distribution we’re doing. They’ll think we’re billionaire, his fashion holdings strike footwear or apparel.” and TV production company, sports geniuses if they don’t know.’” observers as more akin to a hobby. Another source describes Burkle agency, Internet and interactive So what is Burkle’s investment A few observers suggest that what as very connected and very smart. media firm. That same month, Burkle strategy and what makes him ties Burkle’s investments together He notes that the way Yucaipa and basketball star Magic Johnson choose his fashion targets? Is he a is a belief in the luxury sector, as structures its deals doesn’t seem purchased BlackBook Media, passive or active investor in these evidenced by Scoop, Garrard, Stephen like they’re bottom-fishing. “They’re including its flagship magazine and businesses? Does he have a soft spot Webster and Barneys, as well as structured so they’re strong for BURKLE PHOTO BY PATRICK MCMULLIN/PATRICKMCMULLIN.COM PATRICK BY PHOTO BURKLE WWD COLLECTIONS

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Yucaipa,” the source notes, adding he continues to invest in private Burkle tried college but it didn’t that the Yucaipa team is fair, smart companies that support the food work out. After dropping out and “definitely aggressive.” industry in areas such as food of California State Polytechnic “Ron likes vanity projects. It’s safety, logistics and cold storage. University, he returned to Stater the Ron Burkle show. He’s the He’s also toyed with the tech and and moved up the ranks until only judge of what to do. He has a social media worlds, coinvesting finally putting together a group strong personality. It’s his money,” with actor Ashton Kutcher in of investors to make a bid for the said the source. companies like Airbnb, Foursquare chain when the parent company “I would never describe Ron as and Flipboard, which sources said decided to sell it in 1982. However, a passive investor. That’s not his is going quite well. In 2010, Burkle the board rejected it as too low and shtick,” says Greif. “He is a hands-on, failed in his attempt to get three ended up firing him. After that, value-added investor,” he says, noting seats on the Barnes & Noble board Burkle bought and flipped a few Burkle likes to fix companies and of directors and was defeated in his small grocery chains and realized help companies that need money. quest to modify its poison pill, which he found his calling. In 1986, he He’ll also invest in a company that’s prevents him from owning more formed Yucaipa, named after the doing OK, but has some issues. than 20 percent of the shares. small southern California town Burkle invests either through the Despite that setback, Burkle made where he was living, and started Barneys New York, Garrard and Yucaipa funds (which usually have several investments in a host of a series of grocery chain mergers Sean Jean are among Burkle’s fashion holdings. a 10-year life) or personally, which industries recently. and acquisitions involving such he can hold onto for as long as he I In March, A&P emerged from companies as Fred Meyer, Ralphs While Burkle himself doesn’t get wishes. “It’s against his religion to bankruptcy as a private company and Jurgensen’s. involved in day-to-day operations, overpay. He’s always looking for after obtaining $490 million of Burkle’s first foray into fashion he is involved in big decisions. His attractive investments,” says Greif. financing from several investors was in 2003, when Yucaipa Yucaipa executives come to meetings “He’s an opportunistic investor.” including Yucaipa, Goldman Sachs acquired a big stake in the Sean and sit on the board, as does Burkle. Numerous observers say the Asset Management LP and Mount John brand, injecting an estimated In 2007, Yucaipa acquired Scoop, underlying thread of Burkle’s fashion Kellett Capital Management LP, an $100 million into the company— currently a 16-unit contemporary investments is the retail component. investor in distressed companies. although sources say that may be sportswear chain. Two years later, “If you understand Ron, then I In September 2011, Yucaipa a little high—an amount founder it put Susan Davidson in charge, you understand why apparel is of and WL Ross & Co. invested $100 Sean “P. Diddy” Combs is said to and she has since made strides interest. What he knows very well million in Amalgamated Bank. have spent quickly. The aim was to in turning it around. “When I is retail, and all of these products I In March 2011, Burkle raised his turn Sean John, which does around came to Scoop, the stores looked are sold through retail stores. He stake in boutique hotel operator $525 million in retail sales in a little tired,” Davidson told WWD very much understands bricks and Morgans Hotel Group Co. to 29.2 apparel, into a global, billion-dollar in March. “I inherited a brand mortar,” says Greif, noting he relates percent from a 9.9 percent stake brand, and the capital infusion that has great DNA from Stefani to the fluidity of fashion. “Food is reported in July 2010. Today he was intended to fuel the company’s [Greenfield]. It had been rudderless even more perishable than fashion owns a 28.9 percent stake. He also wholesale and retail operations for awhile, and I think it was time is,” he says. Greif calls Burkle more joined the board of the hotel chain. domestically and abroad. to get it back to its original DNA, of a “control investor than a minority Morgans owns boutique hotels In May, 2010, Sean John struck which was a strong one.” investor...He likes to have a say in the such as Hudson in New York and an exclusive men’s wear deal with Davidson says having Yucaipa as businesses he operates.” Mondrian in Los Angeles, New Macy’s, and last year signed a deal an owner has allowed her to invest One of Burkle’s more puzzling York and South Beach. with Icer Brands Inc. for a women’s in the brand. In the past year, Scoop investments was in American Apparel. I In February 2011, Burkle, line, which began with activewear has resumed expanding its retail Greif says Burkle bought into the along with Magic Johnson, and expanded to a full sportswear footprint, and this year plans to troubled company precisely because it invested an estimated $12 collection. The Sean John business, open five stores. This month, Scoop fell out of favor as a public company. million in Vibe Ventures, which which sources say Burkle intends to will open a 2,700-square-foot store “The company has had performance owns Vibe magazine, Uptown hold onto, is reportedly profitable. in Brentwood, Calif. The store also problems, and Dov Charney [CEO] magazine and related digital In October, Combs and Terry launched an e-commerce site in has a bad-boy reputation. Ron is no ventures, in addition to the Lundgren, chairman and ceo November 2010. milquetoast investor,” Greif notes. rights to 1,100 episodes of “Soul of Macy’s, opened a sleek new “Yucaipa bought the brand because “He’s a strong, hard-driving investor. Train.” Burkle and Johnson have 2,000-square-foot Sean John men’s they like the brand,” says Davidson. Anyone who gets in bed with him, a war chest to make investments shop at Macy’s Herald Square. She said she speaks with someone A R

they’re not getting in bed with a shy, in underserved communities. Another 790-square-foot shop using once a week from the equity fund to IT M T

shrinking violet type,” he said. And the same concept was unveiled in report on the business. R he believes that Burkle’s investment BURKLE FIRST GOT his taste the Macy’s Union Square flagship “Ron has been completely in Sean John was through a special of the business world when he was in San Francisco in September, with supportive of our strategy. I don’t Yucaipa fund that targets “minority- 13 years old, working as a box boy 10 more shops slated to be installed think he wants to sell it. I don’t owned businesses.” at a Stater Brothers grocery store in in key Macy’s doors this year. The want to speak for them. He’s owned While Burkle made his initial Pomona, Calif. His father managed company has also struck a major Sean John for years. I think he likes fortune in the grocery business, another store in the Stater chain. deal to roll out stores in India. the fashion portfolio.” SEAN COMBS PHOTO BY ROBE BY SEANCOMBS PHOTO WWD COLLECTIONS

&2/  %XUNOHLQGG 30  S-commerce | 37 Digital Do, Digital Don’t Social commerce is digital’s most buzzed-about term right now and still in its infancy. The fashion industry is trying to figure out exactly what those two words mean, what to do and what to avoid in making the transition from socializing to shopping. BY RACHEL STRUGATZ do don’t EXPECT FACEBOOK SALES For Jess Lee, co-founder and ceo of interactive fashion site Polyvore, a common misconception is that s-commerce means driving sales from a brand’s Facebook page. Instead, she explains, a company’s goal is for people to tell their friends about the brand in their own news feed posts, rather than relying on increasing sales with the brand’s news feed posts. BE AFRAID Wade Gerten of 8thBridge contends the biggest misconception about social commerce is that it means losing control of your brand. “This was true until very recently. Now it’s possible for brands to monetize Facebook without Do take advantage of rapidly growing platforms like Pintrest. losing control of their brand and message,” he says. Brands can use enhanced social action buttons that allow fans to do more than just “like” a product, MAKE IT EASY without giving them free range to say anything they want. It provides “Don’t overthink it. Fashion is fun and social, so make it easy,” says James Gardner, a company some measure of control while simultaneously being a founder and chief executive officer of digital agency Createthe Group. Make it as valuable marketing tool. simple as possible for fans to share, embed, tweet, “pin” or “like” content. FORGET ABOUT YOUR WEB SITE GET OUT OF THE WAY Createthe Group’s James Gardner says that beyond involvement on “My best advice is to simply get out of the way,” says Wade Gerten, founder the social platforms, brands need to focus on existing digital flagships, and ceo of s-commerce platform 8thBridge. Because people—not brands— injecting social commerce into the places where people are actively drive social commerce, he says brands should integrate their Web sites with shopping and looking for product—which more often than not has Facebook’s new Open Graph technology. become a brand’s Web site, and not Facebook, contrary to earlier projections. It has become increasingly important that brands also CONVERT EVANGELISTS appropriately inject themselves into social curation platforms, where Ideally, firms want to do what they can to turn shoppers into brand loyalists consumers are making product recommendations to others, and which he who share product information with friends, and in turn, fuel social shopping. calls “the true revenue-driving power of social commerce.” TAP INFLUENCERS WAIT Peer Affirmation: Oliver Walsh, founder and ceo of social discovery “The biggest ‘don’t’ would platform Discoveredd, thinks one of the most significant online changes is be to wait for the perfect the notion of “peers.” Before the social media age, a peer was your friend, but strategy before acting,” now—heavily due to Facebook and Twitter—those boundaries have blurred. Gerten says. “The space “When it comes to s-commerce, it’s about making a commercial decision is evolving so rapidly based on peer affirmation,” Walsh says. “People discover new things and act and the technology is upon that discovery and purchase based upon the voices that really matter to changing so quickly that them—whether it be a close friend or a designer.” a six-month stratwegy Virtual “Sales Associates”: Yuli Ziv, founder and ceo of online influencer to figure out the optimal network Style Coalition, likens a brand starting to use a new digital platform and approach will be obsolete “thinking people will just discover it and come interact” to “opening a new store by the time the report is location and not having any sales associates present.” It’s not just opening another presented to the ceo.” destination where a company’s digital content lives—it’s about strategizing how to engage people in this new locale. Ziv believes a good way to do this is by Polyvore’s Jess Lee says partnering with “influencers” such as bloggers who can orchestrate a meaningful brands shouldn’t try to conversation with the brand and its fans that potentially results in sales. drive sales from their own Facebook page, but should aim to get people LEVERAGE PLATFORMS to tell their friends about When it comes to social commerce, Gardner thinks you “shouldn’t try to the brand in their own reinvent the wheel.” Instead, leverage and integrate existing, fast-growing Facebook posts. platforms like Pinterest.

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PHOTO CREDITS TEEKAY WWD COLLECTIONS WWD  IN A VOLAT I LE SEASON, THE NEWS CAME FROM ALL D ALL FROM CAME NEWS SEASON, THE LE Photo by Photo Iannaccone Thomas Creatures ofthe Wind Creatures I RECT I ONS. 30 40 | Bridget Foley’s Diary

Yves Saint Laurent Laurent handled the dismissals so sloppily remains unexplained, but pales compared to the way Gaytten was strung along for more than a year by Dior. Still, fashion does move on— often positively. With terrific collections from, among others, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto, the renewed buzz about London seems duly justified. In Paris, certified star Haider Ackermann continued his intricate ways with cut and color. In New York, it was delightful to see the attention given the Creatures guys, with their offbeat, homespun sensibility, as they take their place among the more established—and terrific—likes of Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Joseph Altuzarra. One thing that remained constant: Fashion’s proven greats continued to lead. Karl Lagerfeld journeyed to the Earth’s core, a fantastical place set with rich-hued semiprecious spires and stalactites, and came away with a fabulous proposal for Chanel sportif— everything worn over pants—that should ignite the ongoing Chanel frenzy all the more. Celebrating his 10th anniversary at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz dared to be joyful and unconcerned with a singular fashion focus. Ralph “ t’s about magical transformation.” from Jil Sander, and the follow- involve making Dior relevant in Lauren offered a touch of Downton I Christopher Peters thus described up news that Jil Sander herself, an arena that was never Galliano’s Abbey amidst a bounty of elegance. his and Shane Gabier’s utterly engaging available after the termination of forte, and in which his temporary With a cheeky refreshment of her Creatures of the Wind collection. He her association with Uniqlo, would successor, Bill Gaytten, never had mid-Nineties graphics, Miuccia Prada might have been speaking in general rejoin the house she founded. News the chance to make his own mark: proved that while countless others n terms. Could words have a lovelier ring of Simons’ dismissal shocked, as he daywear with currency. have tried, nobody does Prada better or express more succinctly the glorious was in the midst of one of the most In the season’s other major personnel than Prada. Marc Jacobs showed two I promise of fashion? glorious multiseason creative runs in change, Stefano Pilati was out as creative dazzlers, his luxury-class-only rail At its core, fashion is driven by recent fashion memory. Though his director at Yves Saint Laurent, replaced excursion for Louis Vuitton and, in change: by the desire, the urge, the exploration of how couture elements, by Hedi Slimane. While Pilati’s eight- New York, a hybrid Dickens-Pilgrim need for that which is new and which including some of considerable year tenure was marked by constant inspiration that left his audience both just might (in our shoppers’ reveries flourish, can be channeled into a speculation about his imminent firing, awed and wistful. at least) become the conduit for modern sensibility was not initially his clothes never achieved the level of And, in a collection that had the magical transformation. intended as a Dior audition—when critical success the industry projects industry talking—once those in In reality, we buy the dress, the Simons embarked on the direction, onto the hallowed Saint Laurent label. attendance recovered their facility for shoes, the whatever, without ever really for spring 2011, John Galliano was However, in this accessories-obsessed speech—Commes des Garçons’ Rei transforming our lives, but the pretense still ensconced at Dior and, rumored time, Pilati proved himself a master Kawakubo absolutely slayed ’em. For offers happy distraction from the day- behavioral issues aside, no one at connecting with women with high- her premise about a future of “two to-day, and the merch, a more than could have predicted his impending drama shoes and bags, a legacy with dimensions,” she sent out a parade of reasonable consolation prize. crash—it proved to be just that. which Slimane will have to compete as girls in giant clownish geometrics and

The business of fashion is about On April 9, Simons was officially he assumes creative control. vibrant color. It was beyond audacious. ERE UG E

change as well, and recently volatility confirmed as Dior’s new creative Both Pilati and Simons comported But audacity without technique is F E has rocked its landscape. In a strong director. After his spectacular Sander themselves elegantly as they showed mere adolescent posturing. As is N runway season, fall’s most seismic finale, it’s clear that, along with their final collections after having her way, Kawakubo conceived, cut TEPHA S

change happened off the catwalk: fueling the beauty and accessories been publicly pink-slipped. Exactly and crafted her clothes to exquisite Y B the abrupt dismissal of Raf Simons ship, one essential mandate will why the houses of Sander and Saint perfection. Pure fashion at its very best. HOTO P WWD COLLECTIONS

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TIONS OF TIONS VOLUME FOUND A GLORIOUS TIERED L OUIS OUIS A SA the lexander McQueen R A V H UITTON", BUT B URTON DID A NDER A ND 30 Derek romancing Lam the sweater COMFY DOESN’T ALWAYS MEAN CASUAL. FOR FALL, SWEA TERS TOOK A DRESSED!UP TURN THAT RANGED FROM GIRLISH"OSCAR DE LA RENTA’S ARAN!AND!PINK FUR PAIRING"TO RALPH LAUREN’S HIGH!CHIC GOLDEN SEQUINS.

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&2/  )$6+,21LQGG 30  exquisite exit RAF SIMONS ENDED HIS TENURE AT JIL SANDER BY PROVING THE CAPTIVATING POWER OF CALM WHILE SETTING THE BAR SKY#HIGH FOR HIS DIOR DEBUT.

A girl, her valet and WHY SHOULD A GIRL CARRY A FABULOUS BAG WHEN SHE CAN ENLIST A PERSONAL VALET TO SCHLEP SEVERAL? THAT WAS MARC JACOBS’ her bags RUSE AT LOUIS VUITTON, THE BETTER TO FLAUNT HIS SPECTACULAR DISPLAY OF LEATHER !AND FUR AND FABRIC" GOODS TO PAIR WITH CLOTHES THAT EVOKED EDWARDIAN ROMANCE. Jil Sander &2/  )$6+,21LQGG 30  white cool WITH MIRRORS, LOW LIGHT AND A SURREALIST APPROACH, ALEXANDER WANG PROVED THAT BRIGHT WHITE FRINGE CAN HAVE ALL THE EDGE OF BLACK. her valet and her bags Louis Vuitton Alexander Wang &2/  )$6+,21LQGG 30  Proenza Dries Van Noten Schouler

Altuzarra

exotica CALL IT FUNCTIONAL FLAMBOYANCE. INTRICATE AVIAN EMBROIDERIES, GYPSY TRIMMINGS AND PRINTS ROOTED IN EASTERN INSPIRATIONS WILL LOOK AS INTRIGUINGLY CHIC OFF THE RUNWAYS AS THEY DID ON.

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SEVERAL DESIGNERS WRAPPED THEIR RUNWAYS IN DRAMA OF THE CAPED VARIETY. AT GUCCI, FRIDA GIANNINI DREW FROM 19TH CENTURY ROMANTICISM FOR A LOOK THAT WAS PART POETIC, PART PIRATE.

Rodarte retro warriors IT WASN’T EXACTLY CLEAR HOW KATE AND LAURA MULLEAVY’S STATED INSPIRATION, AUSTRALIA OF YORE, INFORMED THEIR RODARTE COLLECTION. BUT NO MATTER. A VAGUE THIRTIES ATTITUDE PERMEATED THE AIR, AND MANY OF THE CLOTHES DELIVERED AN UNUSUAL HYBRID: INNOCENCE WITH ATTITUDE.

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chanel sportif KARL LAGERFELD JOURNEYED TO THE CENTER OF THE EARTH AND DISCOVERED A ROCKY WORLD OF ANTHRACITE CAVES, AMETHYST OBELISKS AND QUARTZ STALAGMITES. DRAMATIC, INDEED, BUT THE FIND THAT WILL RESONATE MOST POWERFULLY WAS A NEWLY SPORTY CHANEL BUILT AROUND A GOLD MINE IN PANTS.

retro warriors IT WASN’T EXACTLY CLEAR HOW KATE AND LAURA MULLEAVY’S STATED INSPIRATION, AUSTRALIA OF YORE, INFORMED THEIR RODARTE COLLECTION. BUT NO MATTER. A VAGUE THIRTIES ATTITUDE PERMEATED THE AIR, AND MANY OF THE CLOTHES DELIVERED AN UNUSUAL HYBRID: INNOCENCE WITH ATTITUDE.

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commercial collections, once issues of weight, and in some cases, cost, are resolved. Demonstrative fabrics always material feature prominently on Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni runway. This time, she broke her signature geometry with a matters bold yet romantic cotton and Lurex floral jacquard. “I love its density, but rigorous BY BRIDGET FOLEY style,” she says. Proclaiming themselves bored n a season marked more by individuality than with wool, Jack McCollough and trends, fabrics made for one of the clearest Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza vehicles for self-expression. It’s a given that at the Schouler focused on cotton and highestI levels of fashion most fabrics are exclusive leather, developing almost all of their to a house, and many of those are custom. Fall saw fabrics themselves. Especially for the countless amazing fabrics, often resulting from runway seasons, it’s important to view the intense research and multiple steps in the production textile as a crucial element in the creative process. Sometimes, imagination trumped reality: Mary process, Hernandez explains. “This is Katrantzou used real No. 2 pencils to deliver No. 1 runway- much more of a show, an exercise in only wit. More often, designers channeled their attentions creativity, an exercise in design,” he into developing fabrics intended to translate to their says. “Pre-collections are more about

Marc Jacobs

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clothes.” They thus developed textured embroidered, trimmed, appliquéd, beaded,” Jacobs says, poplins, kimono fabrics and various adding the obvious. “There’s a lot of work [here].” treatments of leather. The development process at Marc Jacobs, One stunner: A three-color weave where the fabrics were bold and fanciful, that was, McCollough says, “Scored was no less intense. Specially commissioned F and perforated and then shot through yarns were woven and sent to one studio A with a contrast leather. It’s a navy leather and a for sequining and another for bonding. Silk black leather. They are sort of scored with squares,” squares destined for patchworks were hand- he explains. “[They were] put one on top of the frayed by interns, assembled in degradés and other, and then woven with white.” sent to Italy for embroidery. A wool yard was Marc Jacobs, a long-time devotee of intricate embroidered on tulle, sequined and needle- tweeds and embroideries, each season pushes himself punched with a knit. After describing several D and his studios to achieve new levels of surface such complicated fabrics, Jacobs cuts himself wonder for both his signature and Louis Vuitton off with a note to self: Next season might be collections. At the latter this season, he went for a all bias georgette. He likens that faux resolve “more humble and naïve” approach to craftsmanship to the way a good friend of his felt when she than in spring’s carrousel extravaganza. The level was involved in an intense project of her S of work involved was no less intense. On one fabric, own. “When Sofia Coppola was doing Marie M ponyskin was integrated into a floral plaid; on another, Antoinette,” Jacobs recalls, “she said, ‘I’m ostrich skin was bonded to Shetland and finished with going to do a documentary next. I can’t big jeweled broaches for buttons. “We embellished, deal with 500 extras.’”

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Calvin Klein

Pedro Lourenço

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Prada

Krizia

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STRUCTURAL STUDIES MADE FOR A SIGNIFICANT MOTIF THROUGHOUT A HIGHLY DIVERSE SEASON. WHO KNEW THERE WERE SO MANY WAYS TO WORK A PEPLUM?

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Balenciaga

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LANA, THAT IS. ONLY TODAY’S SWEATER GIRLS TAKE LIBERTIES IN THE NAME OF SOPHISTICATION, STRETCHING TRADITIONAL MOTIFS INTO DRESS LOOKS AS APPROPRIATE FOR THE OFFICE AS turner FOR OFF"DUTY. classics

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ONCE UPON A TIME, A LADY WAS NOT SEEN IN PUBLIC quiet, SANS CHAPEAU. WHILE THOSE DAYS ARE UNLIKELY TO please MAKE A FULL!FORCE COMEBACK, MANY IN A SEASON WITH DESIGNERS MADE A A LOT GOING ON, COMPELLING CASE MOMENTS OF CALM FOR THE RETURN OF PROVED ALLURING. A THE HAT. GENTLE RESTRAINT WAS WORKED AT VALENTINO, WHILE BOTTEGA VENETA WENT PLAIN WITH POWER. perfect polish

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Tommy Hilfiger Jason Wu Dolce & Gabbana armed forces CONFORMITY MATTERS IN THE MILITARY!EXCEPT WHEN THE STRATEGISTS ARE FASHION DESIGNERS. FALL OPTIONS RANGED FROM NO"NONSENSE EPAULET DRESSES TO ELABORATELY EMBROIDERED REGALIA.

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62 | Finale Sh Shoe Smackdown 18-13. We’re talking footwear, not football—and that’s the fall score between Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin, reigning champs of runway shoe collaborations. Of course there were many others (Nicholas Kirkwood for Prabal Gurung, Tabitha Simmons for Honor, Stuart Weitzman for Adrienne Landau) but this time it was all about Blahnik vs. Louboutin, with the latter losing by five heels. Oh well, there’s always next season. BY SARAH TAYLOR o Manolo Blahnik s 18 9 15 8. 3 collaborations 12 1

4 10 13 6

11 16 8 14 17 5 7 Y DOMINIQUE MAITRE DOMINIQUE Y

2 1.Tribune Standard 2.Tess Giberson 3.Juan Carlos Obando 4.Carolina Herrera 5.Zac Posen 6.Gregory Parkinson 18 7.Pamella Roland 8.J. Crew 9.Monique Lhuillier 10.M. Patmos 11.Barbara Tfank 12.Chado Ralph Rucci 13.Wes Gordon 14.Sophie Theallet 15.Mimi Plange 16.J.Mendel 17.Band of Outsiders 18.Milly

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2 B OF CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SPRINGER; PORTRAIT CHAD ROBERT K BY 6

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4 1.Michael Van Der Ham 2.Jonathan Saunders 3.Alexandre Vauthier 4.Todd Lynn 5.Mark Fast 6.Mary Katrantzou 7.Bouchra Jarrar 8.Martin Grant 9.Marchesa 10.Rue du Mail 11.Mugler 12.Victoria Beckham 13.Willow PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; JOHN AQUINO; PORTRAIT OF MANOLO BLAHNI MANOLO OF PORTRAIT AQUINO; JOHN IANNACCONE; THOMAS BY PHOTOS WWD COLLECTIONS

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