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Fashion's Ideas FASHION’S BIG IDEAS The+ Big Brand Era Jumping into IPOs Celebrating Alber Digital Do, Digital Don’t Manolo vs. Louboutin Ron Burkle, Fashion Guy What Will Hedi Do? London, New & Now The Hottest Model Cinema Italiano $10.00 DISPLAY UNTIL JULY 30, 2012 28 Days &2/FRYLQGG 30 CONTENTS FALL 2012 UPFRONT 10 28 DAYS Lots of news on and off the runways, from the kickoff in New York until the last exit in Paris. 12 STATE YOUR CASE Retailers pick their single favorite collection of fall. 14 THE BIG TEN: EXPRESSION OF FREEDOM Alber Elbaz celebrates a decade at the helm of Lanvin. 15 COMEBACK KID: A HEDI VIEW FOR YVES SAINT LAURENT Hedi Slimane shakes things up—again—at a storied house. 16 CHINA NOW: ANOTHER DESIGNER NAMED WANG Uma Wang works the West. 18 RUNWAY CHAMP: THE FACE OF FALL Julia Nobis is the most in-demand model of the season. 20 EICHNER’S EYE WWD photographer Steve Eichner sees it, snaps it, says it during New York fashion week. 22 CAMERA MAN: PARIS PLAYGROUND Lensman Stéphane Feugère roams all around the Paris shows. 24 NEW YORK MINUTES: IN THE FLASH From front row to after parties, photographer Miles Ladin captures the scene. ON THE COVER GIANNONI; DONNA KARAN CHINSEE GEORGE BY A sweeping cape by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, photographed by Stéphane Feugère. Mary Katrantzou Donna Karan MARY KATRANTZOU PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO MARY KATRANTZOU WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 78. SUNDAY, APRIL 15, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD COLLECTIONS &2/&RQWHQWVLQGG 30 CONTENTS FALL 2012 FEATURES 26 FASHION ON FILM: CINEMA ITALIANO Designers all over went big for film and multimedia presentations. Here’s how the Italians did it. 28 LONDON TOWN: A LITTLE RESPECT A reenergized London gets its due. 30 THE FINANCIALS: TAKING THE IPO PLUNGE The big-money lure of going public. Plus, an update on LVMH’s L Capital Management investment arm. 32 LABEL VS. DESIGNER: THE BIG BRAND ERA What happens when houses square off with designers? 34 THE LINE BACKER: WHO IS RON BURKLE AND WHY DOES HE LOVE FASHION? A very private mogul has growing interests in the world of style. 37 S!COMMERCE: DIGITAL DO, DIGITAL DON’T Things to do and things to avoid when making the leap from socializing to transaction. 38 BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY: THE TIMES THEY ARE A!CHANGING The fashion landscape has never been more volatile. 42 FASHION’S BIG IDEAS From Chanel sportif to animalia, fabulous fabrics to military style, peplums to exotica— here are some of the season’s major concepts. 62 FINALE: SHOE SMACKDOWN Christian Louboutin vs. Manolo Blahnik in the battle for runway collaborations. Giorgio Armani PHOTO BY GIOVANNIPHOTO GIANNONI WWD COLLECTIONS &2/&RQWHQWVLQGG 30 Christian Dior Boutiques: www.dior.com EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, Paul Jowdy ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel EDITOR James Fallon EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Brett Mitchell MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. Pogoda LUXURY DIRECTOR, FINE JEWELRY & WATCHES, Ellie Ghadimi EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha FASHION & RETAIL MANAGER, Nancy Gutman NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood JUNIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER, Holland Casey DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Sarah Taylor SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin ASSISTANT TO THE CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, Dana Cirincione SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, TEXTILES & TRADE Arthur Friedman ADVERTISING COORDINATOR, Stephanie Fell SENIOR EDITOR Arnold J. Karr ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski REGIONAL OFFICES BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti WEST COAST DIRECTOR, 323!965!7283, Jill Biren BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER, 323!965!7285, Courtney Hazirjian BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser INTERNATIONAL OFFICES SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, 011!3902!6558!4225, Guglielmo Bava ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY, 011!3902!6558!4224, Olga Kouznetsova EYE EDITOR Matthew Lynch ACCOUNT MANAGER, MILAN, 011!3902!6558!4236, Giulia Squeri SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS, 011!331!4451!1290, Odile Eda Pierre SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR Julie Naughton MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR Andrea Nagel ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Marc Karimzadeh Megan Marino, Tina Schlissel, Sam Todd, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson-Escriout MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES SENIOR FASHION EDITOR, SPORTSWEAR Kim Friday EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING, Janet Menaker; CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR, Emily Cortez SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Antonia Sardone EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING, Kristen M. Wildman; PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR, Marjorie Keating DIRECTOR OF INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS, Danielle McMurray CONTRIBUTING SENIOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR Etta Froio DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Pincus; CREATIVE DIRECTOR, Fabio Salles CONTRIBUTING EDITOR AT LARGE John B. Fairchild COPY DIRECTOR, Julia Donahue; SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Borck SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER, Brianna Lipovsky; MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Kristin Mooney WWD.COM MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Jamie Rudolph; ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Alissa Gross ASSOCIATE ONLINE EDITOR Krystina Gustafson ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jessica Casey; COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Danielle K. Stewart ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Roberta Correia MARKETING COORDINATOR, Leigh Alcott MEN’S PRODUCTION SENIOR EDITORS Jean E. Palmieri, David Lipke VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING, Gena Kelly FASHION EDITOR Alex Badia GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Chris Wengiel "ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR# Luis Campuzano PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Kevin Hurley ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER, Jill Breiner MARKET EDITORS SENIOR B2B DISTRIBUTION MANAGER, Michael Wagner MILAN Alessandra Turra, Cynthia Martens "EDITORIAL ASSISTANT# LONDON Nina Jones, Catherine Tipple "EDITORIAL ASSISTANT# CONSUMER MARKETING LOS ANGELES Rachel Brown, Khanh T.L. Tran "NEWS# SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Ellen Dealy NEW YORK William Cotto; Vicki M.
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