The Brilliantly Uncool

4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 The Brilliantly Uncool

By Venessa Lau ALBER ELBAZ LOVES TO TELL A STORY. ANYONE WHO has attended one of his intimate resort presentations, which he narrates like a master bard, knows this about him. On Friday morning, 12 hours before his Halloween bash at the Lanvin store, Elbaz is tucked into a seat at the renovated The Mark Restaurant at New York’s The Mark Hotel — his back to the breakfast crowd — and is talking about shoes. Specifically, the sensible, strappy flat sandals that dominat- ed his recent spring runway. What appeared to be a major nod to the season’s comfort footwear trend was actually the last-minute outcome of a rather dramatic and anxiety-rid- den rehearsal. At least the way Elbaz tells it. “It was a nightmare,” recalls Elbaz, noting that the models were initially shod with towering titanium heels. “We did the rehearsal and all of a sudden I saw the girls couldn’t walk. I saw the agony in their faces. They were shaking; they looked like alcoholic girls.” Luckily, he had the sandals from the commercial collection backstage. “We bring everything [to the show site],” he explains. So off the stilettos went and on came the flats. “Only 10 or 12 [of the models] said they could walk in the heels,” he continues. “But the ones that couldn’t were, like, 37 of them. I got very emotional — not that I got mad at them — but I got very emotional that they didn’t complain. You know what? Damn it with image. You can be stubborn and go after an image, but I’m not an image-maker; I’m a dressmaker. If you don’t feel good in something, you don’t look good with it.” That is exactly the mind-set that has made Lanvin a white-hot label under Elbaz’s reign. As he’s recounted count- less times, he targets real women with real-life concerns. “Editors can hate me; women — no,” says Elbaz. Regarding those disaster heels, they’re still going into production — after a little fiddling. “We are rethinking the whole construc- tion,” he says. “I always say fashion for me is almost like contemporary art. When does the painter know the painting is finished? It’s not a house you built and say, ‘OK, is done.’” A doctor will give you a Tylenol. I “will give you a beautiful red coat, and you will feel as good with Tylenol as with the red coat. ” — Alber Elbaz, Lanvin Elbaz, the recipient of tonight’s Designer of the Year award from the Accessories Council, has other accessories on his mind as well: the bejeweled butterfly necklaces and beautiful bee clips, with baroque pearl abdomens, from his stunning spring collection, which featured sleek stretch bodysuits and sweeping flyaway skirts. “There can be nothing more decadent than a butterfly, because it flies,” he says. “I understood that fashion was a dream, it’s about glamour. I have to make women fly.” When talking about clothes and women and glamour and the fantastical stuff of fashion, Elbaz is animated. He speaks quickly, and his responses spill forth effortlessly, punctu- ated by the intermittent joke and self-deprecating quip. But dishing about the corporate business? Not so much. Elbaz reveals that the day before, he declined a big press profile because the journalist wanted to discuss “the industry of money and power. I’m not going to do this interview,” he explains. “I’m in an industry of dreams and excitement and love and beauty. I’m not feeling that I’m a part of this megaindustry of billion dollars. At Lanvin, we’re an independent company — we are very far from this.” The Morocco-born, Israel-raised Elbaz — formerly known as Albert Elbaz before he lopped off the T before coming to New York in the Eighties, where he assisted Geoffrey Beene — arrived at Lanvin in 2001. That’s when Shaw-Lan Wang, a Chinese media magnate, bought a con- trolling stake in Lanvin from L’Oréal. She brought Elbaz on board to replace Prada alum Cristina Ortiz and charged him with revamping the very dusty house. A year later, Wang consolidated her control and bought out her minor- ity shareholders. Two years after that, amid rumors he was headed for Givenchy, Elbaz signed a long-term contract to remain at Lanvin. “I don’t want to move around every few years to another house,” he said at the time, also citing his devotion to Wang. She and Elbaz make an unusual pair. Today, the Lanvin owner is ensconced a few tables away at The Mark. She will eventually come over to remind Elbaz he’s late for appoint- ments and, eyeing his still-full bowl of berries, will scold him mildly for not eating. Later that night, at the Halloween party, she’ll pose for pictures with Elbaz and playfully mock- nibble his ear. STEVE EICHNER ALL PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 5 WWD.COM

The Lanvin Dolls, from left, Erickatoure Anne Mr. Elbaz Aviance, Sophia Lamar and Koko Aviance. Hathaway

“The only way this industry can work is if there is a collaboration between management and design; it’s not us and them,” says Elbaz. “It’s us. It’s like a family.” His partner, Alex Koo, is the firm’s director of merchandising. While Elbaz has been riding high at Lanvin lately, with one spectacular season after another, things weren’t always so smooth. He went from Beene, where he spent seven years, to Guy Laroche, where he first attracted press attention, in 1997. Then, after two years there, came the big move: Elbaz was tapped by Pierre Bergé to helm Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. “I got an amazing welcome from Mr. Saint Laurent and Mr. Bergé, but I didn’t feel like a designer,” Elbaz says. “I felt like a son-in-law going into a house and taking something from them. I was very sensitive to that. It was very hard for me. For a couple of months, I had lunch almost every day with another person at Saint Laurent and, every lunch, someone else was crying in front of me. You see, Clara [Saint], Loulou [de la Falaise], they were emotional because it was their baby. They made it happen, and here I am coming and Lanvin’s Extravagant Halloween Bash taking it from them.” Just two seasons in, Gucci Group acquired the house of By Vanessa Lawrence yellow floor-sweeper, “It’s the most comfortable Saint Laurent. Elbaz was only able to present his third — and full-length gown I’ve ever worn.” last — collection by invoking certain contract stipulations be- EVERYONE IS FAMILIAR WITH THE TYPICAL Guests like Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Padma fore leaving the house. The experience proved traumatic. “You store party experience: wine and passed hors Lakshmi, Allison Sarofim, Samantha Mathis, Liu feel unwanted,” he remarks. “I left and thought not only that d’oeuvres in a cramped space before rushing off Wen and Constance Jablonski did their part, too: I wanted to leave Saint Laurent, but I wanted to leave fashion to the evening’s main event. Friday night Lanvin among the various creations gathered on the sec- in total. I didn’t want to do fashion anymore.” So he traveled blew up all such expectations with its aptly ond floor, tricked out like a Studio 54 disco, were the world — the Himalayas, India, Turkey — and even enter- named Halloween Extravaganza in its recently a cowboy, policemen, a mummy and man with a tained going to medical school, if perhaps not for the sound- opened Madison Avenue boutique. helicopter-esque light-up propeller on his head. est of reasons. “I’m a hypochondriac — big time,” says Elbaz. The shop’s facade was covered in a blush But none could top Janet Jackson, who “I’m fascinated by doctors. If you had a stethoscope now, I’d be spectrum of 2,000 balloons, and inside there showed up for 15 minutes with a mustache, fainting here.” were 500 more balloons; a digital photo booth wearing a long skirt and carrying a cigar. The catalyst that pushed him back into fashion? An article complete with Lanvin-designed backdrops; “I’m J-baz,” she explained as she headed he read about a mother whose son was hurt in a terror attack. a selection of special masks for unadorned up to the makeshift VIP area on the third floor. “At first I thought to myself, who needs fashion?” he recalls. guests; waiters (sporting Lanvin ribbon bunch- “I’m Alber Elbaz in transition to becoming “Look what life is about.” Yet the next morning, he woke up es in lieu of ties) passing out confections like Janet Jackson.” with the thought that fashion makes women feel good. “A doc- green apple cotton candy, mini donuts and Anne Hathaway arrived with boyfriend tor will give you a Tylenol,” he says. “I will give you a beauti- limoncello popsicles; bars galore, and more Adam Shulman and had a particularly eso- ful red coat, and you will feel as good with Tylenol as with confetti than a New Year’s Eve popper. teric take on her leopard Lanvin jumpsuit and the red coat.” “I love Halloween. I love the fun, I love the beaked mask ensemble. Though the designer calls the whole YSL incident a happy part of it, it’s kind of unserious, which is not “I feel like I’m channeling Sigourney “scar in my heart,” he harbors no ill feelings toward then- unlike me,” said Alber Elbaz, who was a self-de- Weaver’s character’s soul from ‘The Ice Storm,’” Saint Laurent chief executive officer Mark Lee, now ceo of scribed “pussycat” in a crystal encrusted mask with she said. “It’s sort of Connecticut dominatrix.” Barneys New York (a major business for Lanvin), or Tom whiskers and a bow-tie. “[Last year] I was working She and Shulman had another set of cos- Ford, who assumed the design helm at Saint Laurent upon in the studio doing pre-collection. [The last time I tumes to make in time for their next party. Elbaz’s departure. “I know Tom is doing well, and I wish dressed up] I was 11. I think I was a piano.” “We’re gonna be the robots from Spike him all the best,” says Elbaz. Apparently Ford feels the same Elbaz certainly made up for lost time, Jonze’s ‘I’m Here,’” she said. way; last year, the designer-turned-director-turned-design- dressing not only himself but a slew of Lanvin Just after 11, guests were treated to a special er invited Elbaz to the opening of his directorial debut, “A Dolls, drag stars who were scattered through- performance by a trio of impersonators: Candi Single Man.” Elbaz wasn’t able to attend, but says he was out the store wearing his designs and posing Stratton as Cher (singing “If I Could Turn Back heartened by Ford’s gesture. for the crowds. Time”); Jason Cozmo as Dolly Parton (“Nine to Elbaz is doing some gesturing of his own these days towards “It’s a sample,” boasted Koko Aviance of Five”), and Princess Diandra as Tina Turner a more egalitarian audience. At the end of the month, his col- her strapless red dress (her Koko doll sport- (“Proud Mary”). Hathaway was so taken she laboration with H&M rolls out to stores; a film teaser, directed ed a special pink Lanvin playsuit) while asked Parton to pose for photos with her on the by Mike Figgis, will make its debut on the H&M Web site to- Erickatoure Aviance declared of her mustard dance floor. morrow. It’s a lower-priced step Elbaz once noted he would never take. So why now? Janet Jackson “All of a sudden, you see your designs everywhere in the world,” he explains. “Coco Chanel thought [being copied] was a compliment, and sometimes I think, ‘OK, she was right.’ But sometimes it’s painful.” So when the H&M brass approached him about a possible partnership, he eventually agreed. “It was an exercise for me to understand what is the relationship between high fashion and fast fashion.” Ultimately, he concluded that offering the latter does not cheapen the former. “Ninety-five percent of women cannot afford [Lanvin], Princess Diandra so let them have a taste. It’s like if I was living in a palace as Tina Turner. and opened some doors and said, ‘Have tea with me, taste the food.’ It’s not about giving away something that belonged to someone else; it’s about sharing.” The collection, named Lanvin [Hearts] H&M, will include women’s fashion, accessories, shoes, jewelry and even lip- stick, as well as men’s wear. Elbaz had a hand in every possible detail from design to packaging, store window concept, and even “what is next to what” in the corporate showroom. Yet he insists this is not a test before launching a diffusion collection of his own. “No, the beauty of our business is that we can do things and then move on,” he replies. “This project with H&M was about being relevant to a moment. I have always said that we are not a cool brand. It’s not about being cool or not. We try to be relevant. I’m not going into the cool club. It’s not my address.” Legions of women would disagree on that assessment of his own and Lanvin’s cool factor. So, too, will many more after the Nov. 18 New York opening of the H&M line at a fashion show at The Pierre Hotel. “I was looking for a story again,” Elbaz says. “I thought we could do something like a couture show and bring [the clothes] from High Street to high fashion.” Postshow, editors will be able to enjoy a private shopping party at a Manhattan H&M. “Guests will go from the For more images, JasonJason Cozmo as surreal to the real,” notes Elbaz. “That, for me, is what fash- see WWD.com/eyescoop. Dolly Parton. ion is all about.” 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 WWD.COM ACE Awards Preview The recipients of the 2010 Accessories Council Excellence Awards, who will be honored tonight in Manhattan, are industry leaders who share powers of creativity, innovation Powerhouses and commitment. — Lauren Benet Stephenson, with contributions from Rachel Strugatz and Kristi Garced

ALBER ELBAZ, DESIGNER OF THE YEAR RACHEL RACHEL ROY, BRAND LAUNCH OF THE YEAR Alber Elbaz has designed for Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche, Rachel Roy started her eponymous sportswear collection in 2004. Yves Saint Laurent and Krizia. But his work as creative di- Five years later, eager to add to her portfolio, Roy created Rachel rector of Lanvin has been the grandest showcase for his Rachel Roy, a moderate-price contemporary lifestyle brand, saying it talents. was “the younger sister to the Rachel Roy collection.” Accessories have played a key role in all of Elbaz’s Rachel Rachel Roy, which is sold exclusively at 85 Macy’s loca- collections since his debut during the fall 2002 season, tions, consists of sportswear, dresses, footwear, jewelry and hand- with price points known to sometimes venture into bags retailing for $59 to $299. the several thousands. He abides by a strict luxe- “I wanted the collection to be ‘affordable’ but never but-wearable aesthetic — whether it’s decadent give up aesthetic or style,” she said. resin baubles, handbags with chain detailing When launching the collection, Roy said, or shoes in shocking hues of pink and yellow. “I honestly did not know what to expect A diffusion line with Target premieres other than, if I love it, other women will, this month, and will include jewelry, hats, too. This business is about gut, emo- sunglasses, handbags and footwear. “It’s tion and passion. That does not change

very Lanvin. It’s very much our world, our for me no matter what project I am JOHN AQUINO RI BENDEL PRODUCT BY aesthetic,” Elbaz said of the collection. working on.”

MARIA SHARAPOVA FOR COLE HAAN, BRAND COLLABORATION TIFFANY & CO., HALL OF FAME Cole Haan signed tennis champion Maria Sharapova in 2008 to be Tiffany & Co. began 173 years ago as more of an emporium, with “a little the face of its Cole Haan Sporting collection. A year later, her role bit of jewelry, stationery, fancy goods, objects for the home,” said Linda became much more than that. Buckley, vice president of public relations. In the 1880s, founder Charles “Maria is, first of all, a very creative woman and has a style of Lewis Tiffany began buying French estate jewelry, and purchased the her own,” Dave McTague, Cole Haan chief ex- Tiffany yellow diamond, laying the groundwork for the company. ecutive officer, said earlier this year. “She’s an In 1940, the jeweler moved from its lower Broadway location to exceptional woman on and off the court. Going its famed flagship at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, and it has been forward, Maria is a very key instrument and immortalized since in literature and on film. The company branched partner for us to expand our brand globally.” into watches, pearls, eyewear and special- The brand has upped its profile this year, ty sterling silver gift items. Tiffany, which hiring photographer and blogger Todd Selby now operates 200 stores globally, recently to create its advertising campaign. The latest launched handbags. collection is more trend-focused, with over- Tiffany plans to press on with international the-knee boots and lace-up sandals. Sharapova expansion, and focus on emphasizing its new said she was inspired by corsetry and the iPad app, watch and leather collections and weave of tennis rackets. new high jewelry salon, Buckley said.

HENRI BENDEL, RETAILER OF THE YEAR LAUREN BUSH, FEED, HUMANITARIAN AWARD Started in 1895 by Henri Willis Bendel in Manhattan, Henri Lauren Bush has been involved with the U.N.’s World Food Bendel gained a reputation as a haven for independent design- Program since a 2004 trip with her family to Central America ers by establishing “Open Sees,” in which face time with a buyer for a fact-finding mission on the organization’s behalf. In 2006, — and possible inclusion in the store — was granted on a first- Bush launched FEED, a line of burlap totes that benefit the come, first-serve basis. same U.N. program. The bags were first sold on Amazon. Bendel’s further set itself apart through com and are now available at Whole Foods, Polo Ralph its “Street of Shops” floor plan in Lauren, Harrods, Kenneth Cole, Barnes & Noble and which separate categories such Bergdorf Goodman, priced from $25 to $60. The pur- as beauty, handbags and jewelry, chase of one of the handbags provides the money were housed in separate enclaves for a year of lunches for one child in Africa. on the same floor. Bush believes FEED’s success derives from Bendel’s was purchased by its “innovative approach to philanthropy.…Each Limited Brands in 1985. In 2009, bag gives a very specific amount that has a very SCOTT RUDD; HEN HASTREITER BY DREW ALTIZER; GOIZE; BUSH BY FRANCOIS ELBAZ BY FARRELL/PMC; BILLY CENTENO; BERG BY TALAYA DUCT BY the company ceased all apparel specific impact, and I think customers respond sales to turn its focus to accessories to the notion of giving so tangibly through a con- and beauty. sumer product.”

QVC, E-TAILER OF THE YEAR KIM HASTREITER, MARYLOU LUTHER AWARD FOR Though known for its television “trunk shows,” which began in 1986, QVC now gener- FASHION JOURNALISM ates 32 percent of its sales through its Web site, qvc.com, which launched in 1996. With a budget of just $4,000, Kim Hastreiter founded Paper Doug Howe, QVC’s executive vice president of multichannel planning and mer- magazine in 1984 with David Hershkovits. Twenty-six years chandising, said, “A lot of people think of us as a TV shopping later, the downtown monthly lifestyle magazine has an inter- network, but we’re a multiplatform company.…Well over one- national readership and a lively Internet presence. third of our business is done off air, through the Internet Hastreiter, known for her signature red specs, has an and mobile platforms,” including a new iPad app. ability to identify new creative talent and she uses her QVC has showcased designers such as Diane publication to showcase those who are emerging in fash- von Furstenberg, L’Wren Scott and Andrea ion, design, entertainment and art. Lieberman, among others. Most recent- She sees herself as a communicator. ly, QVC launched clothing from the “I’m an artist, and, in a way, I really kind of made this Kardashian sisters, Rachel Zoe, Erica job up for myself so I could apply my creativity to all of Davies and “Mad Men” costume de- these different things — to communicating,” Hastreiter signer Janie Bryant, as well as jew- said earlier this year. “I love connecting creative people elry by Shoshanna Gruss and Judith with other creative people and then I love to see the explo- Ripka, and Melania Trump. sion of what happens.”

AL BERG, MARCHON, BUSINESS VISIONARY AWARD Al Berg, ceo of Marchon, began his career in the optics industry in 1982 at Avant Grade Optics. When the company was sold to Luxottica the next year, Berg, along with Jeff White and Larry Roth, launched Marchon. Commenting on his goals, Berg has said: “Our strategy has been very clear. We only work with the biggest and the best [brands] so that we have large sales, economies of scale, and we can win the battle between having a great brand name and excellent value of product.” Marchon designs and produces fashion brands such as Karl Lagerfeld, ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Collection, Fendi, Coach, Emilio Pucci, Nike, Sean John, Coach, Michael Kors and Nautica. SHARAPOVA PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; COLE HAAN PRODUCT BY ROBERT MITRA; RACHEL RACHEL ROY BY STEVE EICHNER; RACHEL RACHEL ROY PRO ROY RACHEL STEVE EICHNER; RACHEL BY ROY RACHEL RACHEL MITRA; ROBERT LEXIE MORELAND; COLE HAAN PRODUCT BY PHOTO BY SHARAPOVA

8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 WWD.COM New Fund to Invest in Colored Diamonds

By Samantha Conti Makhzani and Baldwin invest only in polished rocks that weigh at least one carat and have a natural intensity of color that sets them apart from other diamonds. The LONDON — For some, diamonds may be forever, but for a clutch of fund managers word fancy refers to an intense natural color, and the more deep and intense the here, the precious rocks are more of a short-term bet. color, the more precious the stone. Colored diamonds — fancy or not — make up just Asprey’s chairman John Rigas and two former Bulgari executives this week will of- .002 percent of all the diamonds mined annually. ficially unveil an investment fund that aims to make a profit buying and selling fancy “We are after the very small, subcategory of intense colored diamonds,” said colored diamonds, the rarest and most expensive rocks on the market. Makhzani, who also served as group managing director of Gianni Bulgari’s jewelry The Sciens Colored Diamond Fund is a joint venture between Sciens Capital firm, Enigma, from 2004 to 2008. Management, of which Rigas is chairman and chief executive officer, and two veter- In addition to buying — from cutters, dealers and auction houses — and sell- ans of the high-end jewelry industry, Mahyar Makhzani and ing the colored gemstones, Makhzani and Baldwin said Philip Baldwin. they will add value to the fund by creating matching and “You can hold our entire fund in the palm of your hand,” complementary sets of stones, in a bid to offer buyers rare said Makhzani, co-founder and joint managing director of opportunities. the fund, and a former managing director at Bulgari. “We Makhzani admitted that while Sciens may be the only col- are a tool for investors to put their money into assets that ored diamond fund, there was no shortage of competition for are a little bit different.” the stones: “We are in our infancy compared to companies He said it was Harry Winston himself who got him think- like Graff and Moussaieff, which can go out tomorrow and ing seriously about fancy-colored diamonds. Makhzani was buy a $30 million diamond,” he said, referring to the two in the office of a major Indian dealer in the Seventies, and Bond Street jewelers famous for their use of colored stones. he remembers Winston telling him that colored diamonds Over the past 18 months, Sotheby’s in Geneva has estab- were the most precious thing the jewelry industry had. “But lished benchmark prices for fancy colored diamonds. In few took them seriously then,” he said. May, a cushion-shaped fancy intense blue diamond ring of During an interview at the elegant Sciens offices over- 7.64 carats sold for $8 million, setting a new world auction looking Berkeley Square, Makhzani and Baldwin said the record price per carat for a fancy intense blue diamond. Next fund will reimburse clients 100 percent of their investment, month, the auction house plans to auction a fancy intense and is aiming for returns of 25 to 30 percent per year after a pink 24.78 carat diamond in Geneva with a pre-sale estimate three-year period. of up to $38 million. The stone, purchased 60 years ago from The fund is looking to do a first close around March, and Harry Winston, is coming to market from a private collection. the repayment schedule will be three to five years after clos- “I cannot comment on whether or not these diamonds are ing. The partners would not confirm the amount currently a good investment,” said David Bennett, chairman, Europe in the fund, but said $150 million is their target investment. and the Middle East, Sotheby’s International Jewelry The prices of fancy colored diamonds have not dropped Department. “What I can say is that over the last 30 years for the last 37 years, since their prices began being re- fancy colored diamonds have mounted in value very quickly, corded, according to the partners. “Their wholesale value and there are lots of buyers out there for the very finest, has gone up an average of 12 percent year-on-year,” said purest stones.” Baldwin, co-founder and joint managing director of the Bennett said one of the market drivers is the scarcity of fund, and also a former managing director at Bulgari. “No these stones. Indeed, the price range is huge among fancy other asset class has performed in the same way.” Colored colored stones: The rarest — fancy red — are $3 million a Makhzani and Baldwin originally started a colored dia- diamonds are the carat, while the more common fancy yellows range from mond boutique fund in 2008, but said the joint venture with rarest and most $20,000 to $60,000 a carat, according to Sciens’ data. Sciens, the New York-based alternative asset management expensive rocks But there are those who believe these fancy-colored dia-

firm and the investor behind Asprey, gives them a corporate on the market. GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES VICTOR BOSWELL/NATIONAL PHOTO BY monds don’t belong in a fund. Some analysts argue that be- backbone and links to the financial world. cause fancy colored diamonds are not commoditized prod- Rigas said he was attracted to the idea of a colored diamond fund for a number of ucts like gold or copper, it’s difficult to put a price on them, and their value is solely reasons. “Asprey can help the fund by selling to clients who are interested in fancy dependent on the right buyer wanting them — and trusting their provenance. colored stones. Our master jeweler can even set the stones,” he said. “And it’s an “How do you value these stones? As a buyer, you have to believe the person who unusual asset class: The value has to do with scarcity, perception of beauty, and ele- is selling them knows more than you, and you have to trust them,” said Peter Davey, ments of art. And the colored diamond industry is very opaque; You have to know head of mining research at Ambrian Partners in London. “With that in mind, how are what you are doing — because you can be fleeced.” investors going to properly value this fund?” Other investors in the new fund include family offices, private banks and high net Makhzani would agree: “This is a trade based on trust and relationships. We are worth individuals. The partners said they are beginning to see interest from pension offering investors a categorized investment, and we will work for them to sell these funds and other financial institutions. stones the right way, based on all of our experience over the years,” he said.

Glittering Gertie: “[She] is definitely not wanted anywhere Picture, though they may do all right in the boudoir.” around moving machinery; all her sparkling gadgets which spell glamour to her are symbols of ‘danger’ to Baggy Betty: “She’s not only baggy, she’s sloppy, and this her employees. If she works for Uncle Sam on his biggest doesn’t help her own morale or that of any of the other projects she must cast bracelets, rings, pins and earrings workers. Besides her loose ends of hair, her flying tie into her jewel box and come to work a Simple Sal!” and ill-fitting slacks are all ‘catch traps.’”

SEPT. 3, 1942 Sweater Sue: “[She] is not popular as a worker in plants WORKWEAR DON’TS, WW II-STYLE which are full of moving parts. It is too easy for all sorts WITH MEN AWAY DURING WORLD WAR II, MORE of things to get caught in the loose-knitted stitches. Off and more women were entering the workforce. WWD cov- with the sweater and on with the overall[s]!” ered all aspects of this new market, from Mainbocher’s designs for the women of the U.S. Naval Reserve to the Organdie Olga: “Organdie, while all right in its place, isn’t “most serviceable fabrics” for workwear. On the more en- a work-clothes fabric and just doesn’t look right with tertaining side was a Sept. 3, 1942 story that parodied the ‘pants.’ Besides, all those ribbons may catch in things and worst types of female employees, called “DANGER! No cause disaster.” ‘Help Wanted’ From —.” Here, the breakdown. — Venessa Lau Fluffy Flo: “Rufﬂes are just entirely out of the Work Clothes WWD’s parody from 1942. FOR MAKING IT THE ANNIVERSARY OF A CENTURY.

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I[fj[cX[h(&&-rHWbf^BWkh[d PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 21 WWD.COM MEMO PAD FINDING A CHEF: All signs are pointing toward Adam Rapoport as the new editor in chief of Bon Appétit. A formal THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH: Relaunching a brand often requires announcement is expected to come as early as today. thinking in a new way. And that’s the case with Monarchy, Rapoport, who has been the style editor at GQ, will succeed a fashion-forward sportswear collection owned by the HMX Barbara Fairchild, who’s ending a 32-year run with the Group, which is better known for its traditional men’s suits. magazine, the last decade of that time spent in the top job. This spring, the company will debut a complete redesign, When it was revealed in September that Fairchild would be featuring vintage-inspired graphic T-shirts, layering pieces leaving, Condé Nast also said the title would be moving to and an updated color palette. In an attempt to reach New York from its longtime home in Los Angeles. At the time, Monarchy’s target customer, the brand hired event producer a spokeswoman said that Fairchild, who is bicoastal, was Abe Gurko to film a video-look book featuring up-and-comer unable to commit to a full-time move to New York. Reeve Carney and his band. Carney has lots of irons in the Rapoport has covered food, fashion, design, travel, fire, not the least of which will happen on Nov. 14 when he film and music during his decade with GQ. In the food takes center stage on Broadway as Peter Parker in “Spider- department, he mainly edits the title’s larger food packages, Man: Turn Off the Dark.” He also fronts an indie band of but he writes regularly about the topic for both the magazine the same name, stars as the young Prince Ferdinand in Julie and the forked & corked blog on gq.com. Prior to joining GQ, Taymor’s upcoming film adaptation of “The Tempest,” and he edited the restaurant section at Time Out New York for the video for his song, “Testify,” from the film “Machete” three years and worked as an editor and writer for the James is slated to be released today. Gurko described the project Beard Foundation’s publications office. He did not return a for Monarchy as “a hybrid between a look book and a music call for comment, but sources said he’s been asked to work video, designed for the viral landscape.” Reeve Carney wearing on Bon Appétit’s digital presence and expand its readership The video can be viewed at abenyc.com/mnrky. Monarchy in a still to include more men. A Condé Nast spokeswoman also had — Jean E. Palmieri from the video. no comment. — Amy Wicks

A LUCKIER NEW LOOK: Brandon Holley has already begun putting her stamp on Lucky — she’s made several hires, most notably Alexis Bryan Morgan, who is joining from Elle — and now she’s begun working with Andy Spade on the title’s design. She stressed it won’t be overhauled but rather tweaked and “livened up a bit.” “I almost worked with Andy on Jane [magazine] and I’m a fan of his work,” Holley told WWD. Spade’s studio, Partners & Spade, has recently worked with companies such as AOL and J. Crew, but this will be his first work on a print magazine. Holley said the logo won’t change, but some new fonts will be added, as well as new photographers. Spade said it’s too soon to point to any specific changes yet (everything will be revealed in the March issue), but he’s working to make the magazine more relevant. “I want to take this thing into the future,” he said. “Just update it and make it look really fresh and cool.” — A.W. GIRL ON FILM: The planned film cVRd`_dhVT`^Ve`h`c\VgVcjURj about Isabella Blow is quietly taking shape: The Swedish filmmaker Anders Palm will be producing the film, and has recently optioned Lauren More than one million small business and middle Goldstein Crowe’s upcoming book, market clients and their customers depend on us “Isabella Blow: A Life in Fashion” (Thomas Dunne Books), and for lending, leasing and advisory services. As the hired the author as a consultant. country’s leading factoring company, we provide A screenplay has already been co-written by Max Newsom and the financing that manufacturers and suppliers Nicola Brighton, and the book will need to stock the shelves of retailers from coast be used as background, according to Goldstein Crowe. Philip Treacy to coast. We are a force in railcar and commercial and John Galliano have both been aircraft leasing. Top technology, communications linked to the project, although their exact roles have not yet been and office products companies count on us to finance confirmed. Goldstein Crowe’s their customers’ purchases. book will be released in the U.S. on Nov. 9, as will a separate book about the stylist, who committed For over a century, through good times and bad, suicide in 2007, penned by we’ve helped businesses everywhere achieve their Blow’s widower, Detmar Blow, and Tom Sykes. — Samantha Conti highest ambitions.

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Isabella Blow 22 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 WWD.COM Financial Patagonia Launching Common Threads Initiative Social Networks Woo Designers By Rosemary Feitelberg tees that if a zipper fails before a garment does, By Cate T. Corcoran the company will fix it for free. As part of its NEW YORK — Later this month, Patagonia reuse effort, the brand will help provide a way THE NEWEST SOCIAL NETWORKS ARE ORGANIZED AROUND catalogue shoppers will be among the first for shoppers to sell, trade or donate garments the needs and wants of designers, brands and retailers rather than or- to find out about the company’s Common they no longer want. dinary users. It’s great news for fashion companies, but it remains to Threads Initiative. During a speech at the 2010 be seen if they will be able to lure their fans away from Facebook and Instead of just hailing the Sustainable Textiles Conference Twitter long enough to make the new sites a success. benefits of recycling and reus- in New York last week, Launching Tuesday is a new version of Bizzy, a social network up- ing clothing, the program is Chouinard said eBay will play a dated to automatically recommend local businesses such as boutiques also meant to encourage con- role in this initiative. Approached based on the taste of other users who select similar favorites. To avoid sumers to think twice before afterward, he declined further upsetting small businesses with bad reviews as Yelp has done, the site they buy something new. “Don’t comment, as did eBay executives, dispenses with them altogether, instead letting users vote yes or no and buy this jacket unless you re- when reached later in the day. leave a brief comment about any retailer they visit. ally need it” will be one of the For the recycle component, PassportStyle, a loyalty site for designers that made its debut dur- cautionary messages used on Patagonia will collect and re- ing New York Fashion Week, was started by one of Silicon Valley’s hangtags, posters and other in- cycle clothes in the least harm- more colorful couples and features designers from the CFDA Fashion store signage. Self-defeating as ful way. Incubator, such as Alice Ritter, Tom Scott and Prabal Gurung. that might sound, founder Yvon Patagonia is also still helping Participants can’t interact with each other, but they are rewarded Chouinard said this unconven- Wal-Mart with its environmental for interacting with a designer’s page and promoting the designer on tional approach will “increase initiatives. The Bentonville, Ark.- other sites with prizes such as limited edition scarves and invitations my business like crazy,” namely based retailer was motivated to to fashion shows. because the brand will cut into go more green after analyzing “We want to create a stronger, deeper relationship between de- competitors’ sales. Over the past the life history of large cloth- signers, consumers and other fans and supporters of the brands few years, the recession has ing companies and retailers and through our technology,” said co-founder and chief executive officer made people more conservative determining that most do not Svetlozar Kazanjiev. about spending, more interested last for more than a generation, The site plans to be charge designers subscriptions and will not take in long-lasting and better-quali- Chouinard said. They also rec- advertising. Rates will vary according to the size of the brand. ty items, he said. ognized that teenagers are much Kazanjiev and co-founder Drue Kataoka attracted attention in “We want people to imag- more concerned about preserving Silicon Valley last year when they requested start-up costs such as ine our lives consuming the environment than other gen- programmer pay in their wedding registry. Kataoka, a fine-arts paint- less and living simpler lives erations were. er, has been described by Gawker’s Valleywag as the “inexplicable based on what we need as op- A consortium of large compa- fameball priestess of Silicon Valley” for her online spiritual musings, posed to what we want,” said Patagonia’s Common Threads campaign. nies that account for 55 percent interviews and performance-art-style appearances online involving Chouinard, whose company has of the world’s apparel produc- Silicon Valley luminaries such as attorney Bill Fenwick and venture donated 1 percent of its annual sales — $40 tion is developing a sustainable fashion index capitalist Tim Draper. million to date — to environmental organiza- along the lines of the organic standards that The same month, StyleTrek added e-commerce and social network- tions for years. are used in the food industry. Within two years, ing to its existing media site about emerging designers around the The brand’s four Rs — reduce, repair, reuse shoppers should be able to walk into a store world. The New York-based network was started by e-commerce execu- and recycle — will be flushed out in the holiday and scan a garment to see sustainability grades tive Cecilia Pagkalinawan and takes a cut of 25 percent from any sale catalogue, which ships to about 1.2 million shop- for energy and water use, social responsibility and plans to take advertising and sponsorships. Members receive a 1 pers Nov. 15. To reduce, Patagonia is recommit- and other factors, Chouinard said. A Wal-Mart percent cut of sales if a designer they suggest winds up being carried ting to making durable, multifunctional clothes representative said the index would not be out by the site. The company plans to add designers every two weeks. So that stay reasonably in fashion. Repair guaran- for four or five years. far, the site has 10,000 members and $1.5 million in seed funding.

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We turn expertise into results. Call 877.704.3500 or visit jhcohn.com | New York New Jersey Connecticut California Apparel & Stanley Joseph, CPA, Partner, Apparel and Fashion Industry Practice Director, J.H. Cohn Fashion and Joe Torre, Manager WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 23 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS ELIE’S INTIMATE DESIRE: Elie Tahari may officer of iN-Hale Entertainment LLC. The costumed — Miss Mexico Jimena Navarrete GETTING THE GOAT: Bergdorf Goodman soon be launching a line of lingerie. Tahari college fund was established in 1987 and donned a strapless white gown and red mask, spotlights baby cashmere this week with a confirmed he is shopping around for a lingerie represents 47 historically black public complete with her Miss Universe sash — but gallery-style exhibit Wednesday through Nov. license, saying, “We think lingerie and colleges and universities and six law schools. Liliana Dominguez managed to combine both in 14 illustrating what Loro Piana goes through intimate apparel would be a perfect addition to Over the last 23 years, the fund has awarded a sparkly dress, accessorized with zombielike to source the precious fiber from Mongolian our lifestyle brand and we have been speaking more than $100 million in leadership contact lenses and fake fangs. She had a fan shepherds and transform it into coats, with several people regarding the opportunity.” development and scholarship money. in Melissa George, who had yet to select her sweaters, capes and scarves that are extremely Halloween outfit for the weekend. warm, lightweight and soft, and sold just FLASH FASHION: Idea-a-minute flash sale “I want sharp teeth and lots of blood at Bergdorf’s and at Loro Piana stores. “It’s retailer Gilt has been secretly interviewing running down my neck,” she said. incomparable,” said Sergio Loro Piana, LP’s designers all around town in preparation to co-chairman and chief executive officer. Baby launch its own line, according to a source. GUCCI GOES 3-D: Gucci is the latest eyewear cashmere, he noted, is “derived from the first Could the merchant be looking to tap a well- brand to introduce 3-D glasses for moviegoers and only combing of Hyrcus kid goats aged 3 known name such as Thom Browne or Zac Posen seeking something a bit more stylish than flimsy to 12 months with a diameter of 13 to 13.5 to create a lower-priced line just for Gilt, as plastic frames. The $225 glasses, produced microns, versus 14.5 of adult goats.” Target did with Isaac Mizrahi or Uniqlo with Jil by licensee Safilo, will be available exclusively According to the store’s executive vice Sander? Or perhaps the idea is to invent a Gilt- in Gucci’s U.S. boutiques this December and president of merchandising, Ginny Hershey- branded line with its own identity and style, à are compatible Lambert, the underfleece of 19 baby kids is la Barneys New York or Shopbop’s Bop Basics? with movies needed to make a pullover, 58 for an overcoat. The company admitted it is exploring the shown in the The story of Loro Piana Baby Cashmere, a idea, but nothing has been finalized. “We have Bloomingdale’s shopping bags by Tory Burch RealD format. registered trademark, has been documented by not made a decision, but we are looking at the and Michael Kors. The unisex photographer Bruna Rotunno in a book “Baby possibility,” said a spokeswoman. style is based Cashmere: The Long Journey of Excellence.” IN THE BAG: Along with all the renovations, on the aviator ALL FOR CHARITY: LaVelle & Co., the mentoring beauty installations and designer shops frame released BLUE LIGHT SPECIAL: To mark Thursday’s 25th The Gucci frames will be in group for young ladies founded by LaVelle added in the past years, there’s another new earlier this annual gala for The Doe Fund, supporter Ethan U.S. stores in December. Olexa, will stage its first charity event Nov. look at Bloomingdale’s — limited edition year as part of Hawke got the nod to help light the Empire State 8 at Marlborough Gallery Chelsea to support designer shopping bags. They’re created by the Gucci Eyeweb collection, a youth-focused Building blue earlier in the day. Acrophobes the New York Public Schools Summer Arts Tory Burch, Elie Tahari, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen line designed by creative director Frida Giannini. would not have welcomed the honor. The task Program. Betsey Johnson, Mindy Grossman, and Michael Kors to commemorate the 59th Other brands that have launched 3-D glasses required the actor to be out on a ledge without Francine LeFrak and Jane Elfers, all among the Street flagship’s multiyear overhaul and will include Nike, ck Calvin Klein and Nautica. a railing, 100 floors up to pull the lever, but guest speakers at LaVelle & Co. gatherings, start being distributed early next month on hours later he was unfazed by the suggestion will be in the crowd. “With each guest, the days when each designer gets spotlighted IN THE WORKS: Housing Works is celebrating that it was a pretty good New York day. “Any day theme has been the importance of giving back. in the store. It’s all part of Bloomingdale’s its 20th anniversary this year with a series of someone doesn’t get hurt is a good day,” he said. Consequently, that became the objective of current campaign, Check It Out, geared to flag events chaired by designer Thom Browne tied Hawke was more heartfelt addressing their banning together — to do an event for Bloomingdale’s new shops and updated B-way, to its annual Fashion for Action fund-raising the crowd that helped raise $1.75 million, education,” Olexa said. and get another lift to the business through sale. A dinner will be held on Nov. 15 at the including co-chairs Wendy and Steve Madden. designer appearances and shopping events. Lodge at MTV, honoring Broadway Cares/Equity Commending the group, which helps homeless DOING GOOD: The Thurgood Marshall College Fights AIDS and activist Eric Sawyer; a cocktail men get back on their feet, Hawke described Fund bestowed Prestige Awards on six VAMPING IT UP: El Museo del Barrio celebrated party and VIP shopping preview will take place how struck he was by life’s imbalances en individuals Sunday evening at the LVMH Halloween a few days early when its Young on Nov. 18 at the Rubin Museum of Art, and route to Harlem for a Doe Fund meeting Tower in New York. They include Judith M. International Circle threw a Día de Los a public sale of donated merchandise will be after dropping off his son at a private school Agisim of J. Street Consultancy; Audrey J. Muertos-themed bash Thursday night at the staged at Housing Works’ Chelsea store from downtown. “My son and I think we hit a triple, Bernard of the New York Beacon News; Carol Tribeca Rooftop. Yaz and Valentin Hernandez, Nov. 19 to 21. More than 150 brands have but we don’t know we were born on third Campbell, special events officer of Prairie Alexa Rodulfo, Carlos Campos, Luisana Mendoza contributed $1 million worth of clothes and base,” he said. View A&M University; Shon Gables of WFAA- and Bibhu Mohapatra relaxed on sofas dotting accessories, which will be sold at 50 to 70 Afterward, the “Training Day” star said TV, Dallas anchor and correspondent; JRT the expansive space and took in a traditional percent off retail, with the proceeds benefiting his next at-bat, so to speak, will be in Tom Multimedia’s Jocelyn R. Taylor, and Nathan Mayan dance performance before hitting the Housing Works’ programs supporting people Nohilly’s first play, “Blood From a Stone,” Hale Williams, president and chief executive floor themselves. Attire was more glam than affected by HIV/AIDS. which starts previews next month.

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COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE BUYERS’ ASSISTANT PROD ASST. EAST COAST SALES REP El Corte Inglés New York, Inc., wholly Great entry level position. Fast-paced Fast grow accessories co seeks rep w owned subsidiary of El Corte Inglés, fash access Co. needs someone profi- contacts at the majors & lux fashion S.A., Spain, the largest Department cient in Micro Office to communicate boutiques. Exp, ref req. within East Store in Spain and Portugal is looking w/overseas vendors, place orders, Coast. [email protected] SHOWROOM SHARE SPACE for a Buyer’s Assistant for our New follow-up on deliv & inspect merch. Evening couture wear company look- York office. Candidate must have 3-5 Must be able to adapt to situations and years of experience in the Fashion / SALES REP ing to share beautiful showroom with a prioritize tasks. Some college ed bridal, better bags, or jewelry co. Look- Apparel industry with emphasis on necess. Fx res 212-869-7811. Canadian circular knit manufacturer. ing for someone with paralell interests Apparel. Fluent Bilingual, both wirtten Sales Agent required for NY and/or to enhance business. Call 212-244-9044. and spoken, Spanish / English a must. East Coast market. High Fashion & Computer skills required. Competitive Sustainable knit lines. Attractive com- Sales Manager Men’s- Majors Salary & Benefits. Please send resume PRODUCTION AGENT mission for the right candidate. to: [email protected] • Responsible for selling the men’s Ladies apparel importer seeking agent Contact [email protected] division’s line of product and serv- to produce garments in Bangladesh. MERCHANDISER Agent must have New York presence ices to major department stores Immediate opening for fast-paced, and staff to handle large program. • 5-7 years Sales Manager in fash access importer. Must be creative Please e-mail [email protected]. wholesale/ denim preferred w/great taste. Illustrator & Photoshop exp A + but not necess. Merchandise Sales Manager Women’s- Majors & direct trend line of stationary prod- SR. HANDBAG DESIGNER • Present women’s line to buyer ucts, HBA & others. Overseas & do- and create assortment plans mestic travel req. Strong comm skills 15+ yrs exp. Full knowledge of design & computer skills necess. and development. Have worked with • Responsible for building and de- Stationary/hardlines merchandising factories in Europe and Asia. Please E- veloping an effective team exp. A +. College degree req. Fx res mail: [email protected] 212-869-7811. • Contacts and relationships at majors • Responsible for selling the men’s division’s line of product and services to majors department stores Account Executive Specialty • Ability to manage store accounts and a large customer base • 3-5 years Account Executive Apply at www.truereligionbrandjeans.com/careers 24 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2010 WWD.COM

▲ Lazaro HernandezNIP/TUCK and Jack McCollough with Kate Bosworth, in Proenza Schouler; Richard Gere shows off his Tod’s shoes; Victoria Traina in Proenza Schouler with Vanessa Traina in Balenciaga.

GLOBAL MOVERS AND SHAKERS PREFER TO DO THINGS AT RAPID-FIRE SPEED. IT WAS ALL the more surprising, then, that the Fashion Group International’s “Globalists”-themed Night of Stars on Thursday dragged along at a snail’s pace. Perhaps Mayor Michael Bloomberg should be singled out as the culprit. He was scheduled to present Evelyn Lauder with her Humanitarian Award, and the award ceremony hinged on his arrival at 9:30 p.m. That’s late for an event of this nature, even for the night owls among the fashion audience. The fact that some presenters droned on didn’t help the situation. As in previous years, it was up to emcee Simon Doonan to lighten the mood. In his opening remarks, he gave every honoree a “Jersey Shore” nickname. And so star honoree Albert Kriemler became “Tan Jovi,” Jack McCollough, “The Condition” and Lazaro Hernandez, “Bones.” Diego Della Valle is now “The Triceps”; Evelyn Lauder, “Pookie”; Pierre Cardin, “The Impact”; Nina Garcia, “The Paris Hilton of Trenton” and superstar honoree Nicolas Ghesquière, “The Prince of Paramus.” Glen Senk’s was deemed “too horrid to read out loud,” Doonan said. All this had the audience, which included Kate Bosworth, Leighton Meester, Jennifer Connelly and Marisa Berenson, in stitches. Bloomberg redeemed himself a little by keeping his remarks light. “I’d be even more delighted if I had won this year’s ▲ ▲ Jennifer Connelly in Balenciaga with Nicolas Ghesquière. Calvin Klein and Diego Fashion Superstar award,” he said. “I have great faith in the Della Valle Emmy Awards’ voters who will probably not overlook my recent dynamic performance on ‘Project Runway.’” Screen moments must have also been a cue for Calvin Klein, who said that Frédéric Fekkai was “like Warren Beatty in ‘Shampoo,’ but with a better accent. For those of you who know who Warren Beatty is.” Those who didn’t had the next best thing on hand — Richard Gere — whose remarks on Della Valle made several Saks Fifth Avenue executives smile. “I think I just bought 26 percent of Saks, so Diego and I now have 51 percent,” Gere said. “The check’s in the mail.” He recalled how Della Valle once gave him a pair of pebble-sole brown suede shoes. “They have those little nipples on them on the bottom, and you know how the nipples go very quickly,” Gere said. He accepted his presentation duties on the condition of a new pair of shoes, which he paraded for the audience. Speaking of Nipplegate, the photographers went wild for Daphne Guinness, who arrived fashionably late in an ensemble that left nothing to the imagination. After dinner, the heiress whipped out her own Polaroid camera and started taking snapshots of those at her table, including Akris’ Kriemler, ▲ Mayor Michael Bloomberg with Evelyn Lauder in Oscar photographer Steven Klein and Valerie Steele. de la Renta.

For more images, see WWD.com/eyescoop. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY ▲ Daphne Guinness and Steven Klein; Leighton Meester in Giambattista Valli; Pierre Cardin.