RETAIL: Chanel’s new digs in San Francisco, ▲ EYE: “New Moon” hysteria page 14. at the D&G-sponsored ▲ FASHION: Celine opening, page 4. sets an expansion course, page 2. INNERWEAR: The Victoria’s Secret extravaganza returns▲ to New York, page 15. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • November 23, 2009 • $3.00 WWDMONDAYAccessories/Innerwear/Legwear Snow Queen Accessories designers chill out for spring with icy pieces that should be able to stand the heat when the mercury rises. Here, Noir’s rhodium necklace with Crystallized- Swarovski Elements; glass bangles from Lolipop Glass by Jonathan Leon; Pamela Love’s sterling silver and quartz necklace (in hand); Jessica Kagan Cushman’s crystal and quartz necklace with a satin ribbon (worn as a belt), and Lee Angel’s crystal brooches with Toni Maticevski’s gown. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Despite Pockets of Strength, Manhattan Retail Rents Drop 9% By Suzanne Blecher 16 prime retail districts between space in Manhattan fell 9 percent to $117 LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. fall 2008 and fall 2009, according to a square foot from fall 2008 to fall 2009, It helps, but with the economy still a new survey by the Real Estate the report said. volatile and unsteady, even location Board of New York, a 12,000-member The biggest hit was in the 34th isn’t a guarantee that retail rents in group representing commercial and Street-Herald Square area, between Manhattan’s top shopping corridors residential property owners, builders Fifth and Seventh avenues, one of the will rise. and brokers, among others. city’s busiest commercial zones, which Asking rents declined in 11 of Overall average asking rents for retail See Manhattan, Page 12 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: FLYNN KELLY/FUSION; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR DIOR BEAUTY; FASHION ASSISTANT: EADDY KIERNAN; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS COURT KIERNAN; STYLED BY EADDY ASSISTANT: FASHION FOR DIOR BEAUTY; MISUZU MIYAKE USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY TANIGUCHI RYAN HAIR BY KELLY/FUSION; JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: FLYNN PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM Celine Starts Phase-In of New Lines By Miles Socha cruise collection have already sold out. He noted two leather goods lines — Classic WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY PARIS — Goodbye Boogie bag. Hello calf- and Luggage — have attracted “a great lined Classic. deal” of interest. FASHION Phoebe Philo’s first collection qui- “I know that we can grow very quickly. etly arrived at 15 Celine boutiques and The response has been tremendous,” 6 Diamonds might be a girl’s best friend, but glass, select wholesale accounts worldwide Gobbetti said, flashing a big smile. acrylic and crystal accessories with cool silver last week, the beginning of a clean “This has the potential to become a accents can be just as sharp. sweep for the French house that will much bigger brand than it is today — see all existing product lines do a and rapidly. I’m very optimistic.” GENERAL disappearing act by mid-January. He declined to discuss figures or 1 With the economy still volatile, even location isn’t Next year will also see the ar- give sales projections, saying only a guarantee that retail rents in Manhattan’s top rival of a new Philo-led boutique that, “revenues in 2010 will not go shopping corridors will rise. concept — to be unveiled first at down from 2009,” and character- AnnTaylor Stores Corp. turned a third-quarter the company’s Avenue Montaigne izing its “100 percent” switch of 8 profit despite a double-digit sales decline, but flagship here in the first half — and the product offer as “quite bold a tweaking of Celine’s global bou- in this market.” said fourth-quarter sales would be off. tique network. Sources estimated 2008 rev- 9 Seen as an opportunity and a threat, technology Certain locations have already enues at Celine at about 200 mil- is now an unavoidable factor to be reckoned with gone dark, including on Madison lion euros, or $294.3 million at in the luxury market. Avenue in New York. A Rue de average exchange rates. Forever 21 is translating its warp speed Rennes unit on the Left Bank here Gobbetti said Celine plans to 9 runway-to-rack formula to beauty with the will also be shuttered next year, said maintain its retail-driven busi- launch of new brand love & beauty. Marco Gobbetti, chief executive offi- ness model, with about 70 percent cer of Celine, part of the LVMH Moët of revenues streaming in from some 10 The head count will be down, but the mood should Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury group. 115 boutiques. be up at the International Council of Shopping Powered by Philo’s sleek and luxurious Indeed, the network continues to ex- Centers National Conference in New York. designs, the company has already kick- pand, with a Macau unit slated to open 15 INNERWEAR: The sour economy was sweetened started the wholesale business, ramping later this month and a boutique at the briefly on Thursday when the Victoria’s Secret up the door count to about 250 worldwide IFC in Shanghai due in the first half of Fashion Show returned to New York. — roughly half of those new. 2010. Also, shop-in-shops are scheduled In North America, for example, Celine’s for a range of stores, from Hankyu in 16 ACCESSORIES: Brothers and scions Guccio distribution jumped from one client, Osaka and Harvey Nichols and Selfridges and Alessandro Gucci are launching their own Nordstrom, to almost 40 doors, including in London to Printemps in Paris. handbag collection called To Be G. Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Gobbetti did not rule out further bou- Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Jeffrey, tique closures and said the three remain- EYE Ikram, Mario’s, Maxfield and Holt Renfrew. ing U.S. locations — in Bal Harbour, The security detail on Houston Street was in “Phoebe’s vision of a woman is per- South Coast Plaza and Honolulu — are Kristen Stewart in s 4 full force for the Cinema Society screening of fectly suited for the American customer,” A best-selling under review, even as a new Manhattan a Burberry trench “The Twilight Saga: New Moon.” Gobbetti said in an interview Friday at coat style. location is deemed a priority. In Japan, and Valentino dress. Celine’s headquarters, where the brand’s the shop-in-shop count will be trimmed old Macadam logo was only recently scratched from about three dozen to two dozen. Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................19 off the reception desk. “America will definitely “There are certain stores that are not adapt- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS be an important market.” ed to the way we see the brand today, the prod- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. The executive said all regions jumped in uct today and the consumer who will aspire to terms of wholesale volumes, including Japan, it,” Gobbetti explained. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 and that certain outerwear styles from the That said, the executive asserted former clients of FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 109. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Celine — founded 64 years ago as a children’s additional issue in January, May, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, June, August, September shoes business — are responding to Philo’s and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance more modernist, fashion-forward approach. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé This has the potential to Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice The plan is to overhaul about 10 loca- President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and “ tions to Philo’s new design concept in 2010, at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services become a much bigger brand Gobbetti said. Minor adjustments were Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box made to the decor of existing stores, partic- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK than it is today — and rapidly. ularly window displays and mannequins. ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or He noted he expects quicker growth in visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the — Marco Gobbetti, Celine” Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected ready-to-wear in the near term, but that address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, Celine would maintain its balance between you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production rtw and accessories, currently about 50-50. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017.