PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: FLYNN KELLY/FUSION; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR DIOR BEAUTY; FASHION ASSISTANT: EADDY KIERNAN; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS page 14. RETAIL: Chanel’snewdigsinSanFrancisco, Snow Queen For more,seepages 6and7. Lee Angel’s crystal brooches with Toni Maticevski’s gown.quartz necklace with a satin ribbon (worn as a belt), and necklace (in hand); Jessica Kagan Cushman’s crystal and Jonathan Leon; Pamela Love’s sterling silver and quartz Swarovski Elements; glass bangles from Lolipop Glass by rhodiumnecklace withCrystallized- rises. Here, Noir’s that should be able to stand the heat when the mercury Accessories designers chill out for spring with icy pieces Despite Pockets ofStrength,ManhattanRetail Rents Drop9% will rise. corridors shopping top Manhattan’s in rents retail that guarantee a isn’t volatile andunsteady, evenlocation LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. By SuzanneBlecher Asking rentsdeclined in11of It helps,butwiththeeconomy still WWD WWD Women’s Newspaper Daily •November23,2009$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily Women’s Newspaper Daily •November23,2009$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily and brokers,among others. residential property owners,builders group representing commercialand Board ofNewYork, a12,000-member bytheRealEstate a newsurvey fall 2008and2009,according to 16 primeretaildistrictsbetween Overall average asking rents for retail Overall average askingrentsforretail sets anexpansion ▲ FASHION: Celine course, page2. M M ONDAY ONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear city’s busiest commercial zones, which Fifth andSeventh avenues,oneofthe Street-Herald Square area, between the reportsaid. a square foot from fall 2008 to fall 2009, space in Manhattan fell 9 percent to $117 opening, page4. at theD&G-sponsored ▲ The biggest hit was in the 34th The biggesthitwasinthe34th EYE: “NewMoon”hysteria Secret extravaganza returns Secret extravaganzareturns TheVictoria’s INNERWEAR: to NewYork, page15.

See Manhattan , Page 12 ▲ 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM Celine Starts Phase-In of New Lines By Miles Socha cruise collection have already sold out. He noted two leather goods lines — Classic WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday PARIS — Goodbye Boogie bag. Hello calf- and Luggage — have attracted “a great lined Classic. deal” of interest. FASHION Phoebe Philo’s first collection qui- “I know that we can grow very quickly. etly arrived at 15 Celine boutiques and The response has been tremendous,” 6 Diamonds might be a girl’s best friend, but glass, select wholesale accounts worldwide Gobbetti said, flashing a big smile. acrylic and crystal accessories with cool silver last week, the beginning of a clean “This has the potential to become a accents can be just as sharp. sweep for the French house that will much bigger brand than it is today — see all existing product lines do a and rapidly. I’m very optimistic.” GENERAL disappearing act by mid-January. He declined to discuss figures or 1 With the economy still volatile, even location isn’t Next year will also see the ar- give sales projections, saying only a guarantee that retail rents in Manhattan’s top rival of a new Philo-led boutique that, “revenues in 2010 will not go shopping corridors will rise. concept — to be unveiled first at down from 2009,” and character- AnnTaylor Stores Corp. turned a third-quarter the company’s Avenue Montaigne izing its “100 percent” switch of 8 profit despite a double-digit sales decline, but flagship here in the first half — and the product offer as “quite bold a tweaking of Celine’s global bou- in this market.” said fourth-quarter sales would be off. tique network. Sources estimated 2008 rev- 9 Seen as an opportunity and a threat, technology Certain locations have already enues at Celine at about 200 mil- is now an unavoidable factor to be reckoned with gone dark, including on Madison lion euros, or $294.3 million at in the luxury market. Avenue in New York. A Rue de average exchange rates. Forever 21 is translating its warp speed Rennes unit on the Left Bank here Gobbetti said Celine plans to 9 runway-to-rack formula to beauty with the will also be shuttered next year, said maintain its retail-driven busi- launch of new brand love & beauty. Marco Gobbetti, chief executive offi- ness model, with about 70 percent cer of Celine, part of the LVMH Moët of revenues streaming in from some 10 The head count will be down, but the mood should Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury group. 115 boutiques. be up at the International Council of Shopping Powered by Philo’s sleek and luxurious Indeed, the network continues to ex- Centers National Conference in New York. designs, the company has already kick- pand, with a Macau unit slated to open 15 INNERWEAR: The sour economy was sweetened started the wholesale business, ramping later this month and a boutique at the briefly on Thursday when the Victoria’s Secret up the door count to about 250 worldwide IFC in Shanghai due in the first half of Fashion Show returned to New York. — roughly half of those new. 2010. Also, shop-in-shops are scheduled In North America, for example, Celine’s for a range of stores, from Hankyu in 16 ACCESSORIES: Brothers and scions Guccio distribution jumped from one client, Osaka and Harvey Nichols and Selfridges and Alessandro Gucci are launching their own Nordstrom, to almost 40 doors, including in London to Printemps in Paris. handbag collection called To Be G. Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Gobbetti did not rule out further bou- Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Jeffrey, tique closures and said the three remain- EYE Ikram, Mario’s, Maxfield and Holt Renfrew. ing U.S. locations — in Bal Harbour, The security detail on Houston Street was in “Phoebe’s vision of a woman is per- South Coast Plaza and Honolulu — are Kristen Stewart in s 4 full force for the Cinema Society screening of fectly suited for the American customer,” A best-selling under review, even as a new Manhattan a Burberry trench “The Twilight Saga: New Moon.” Gobbetti said in an interview Friday at coat style. location is deemed a priority. In Japan, and Valentino dress. Celine’s headquarters, where the brand’s the shop-in-shop count will be trimmed old Macadam logo was only recently scratched from about three dozen to two dozen. Classified Advertisements...... 19 off the reception desk. “America will definitely “There are certain stores that are not adapt- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is be an important market.” ed to the way we see the brand today, the prod- [email protected], using the individual’s name. The executive said all regions jumped in uct today and the consumer who will aspire to terms of wholesale volumes, including Japan, it,” Gobbetti explained. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 and that certain outerwear styles from the That said, the executive asserted former clients of FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 109. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Celine — founded 64 years ago as a children’s additional issue in January, May, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, June, August, September shoes business — are responding to Philo’s and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance more modernist, fashion-forward approach. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé This has the potential to Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice The plan is to overhaul about 10 loca- President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and “ tions to Philo’s new design concept in 2010, at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services become a much bigger brand Gobbetti said. Minor adjustments were Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box made to the decor of existing stores, partic- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK than it is today — and rapidly.­ ularly window displays and mannequins. ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or He noted he expects quicker growth in visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the — Marco Gobbetti, Celine” Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected ready-to-wear in the near term, but that address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, Celine would maintain its balance between you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production rtw and accessories, currently about 50-50. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. DAILY The weirdest thing is QUote “just when people start crying. It really trips me out. I’m just A Celine pre-collection sandal, the Celine Luggage bag and the Celine Classic bag. like, ‘No, don’t do that. It’s all good.’ — “New Moon” star Kristin Stewart” on Looks from the Victoria’s Secret holiday fashion show. TODAY ON the odd reaction of some fans. Page 4. coming this week WWD MONDAY: Natural Beauty Summit, WEDNESDAY: Tiffany & Co. reports .com Paris (through Tuesday). third-quarter sales and earnings. • Full run from the Victoria’s Secret show • Citi Trends Inc. reports third- quarter sales and earnings. THURSDAY: Macy’s Thanksgiving • More images from the AMNH party Day Parade, New York. and the “New Moon” N.Y. premiere TUESDAY: American Eagle China International Gold, MITRA • • Additional photos from the Outfitters Inc., Coldwater Creek Jewelry & Gem Fair, Shanghai Swarovski men’s collection Inc., Delia’s Inc., J. Crew Group (through Sunday). Inc. and Signet Jewelers Ltd. • Trend Report: Spring report third-quarter sales SATURDAY: Moda Prima, Milan

ROBERT PHOTO BY openwork legwear and earnings. (through Nov. 30). GREAT STORYTELLING THAT’S WHY YOU LOVE US

PHOTO CREDITS. TOP ROW: ALL BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ. MIDDLE ROW, FROM LEFT: MARIO TESTINO (BÜNDCHEN), MARIO TESTINO (SIMPSON), FRANÇOIS-MARIE BANIER (DEPP), ANNIE LEIBOVITZ (LEDGER). BOTTOM ROW, FROM LEFT: BRUCE MCBROOM (FAWCETT), JACQUES LOWE (KENNEDY ONASSIS), MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT (CRUZ), BRUCE WEBER (PATTINSON). 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM Once Bitten For more, see WWD.com. The security detail on Houston Street Thursday evening was enough to suggest a visiting dignitary. Police barricades filtered pedestrian traffic; suited men with earpieces roamed about, and you practically needed a birth certificate to enter the Landmark Sunshine Theater. “This is crazy,” said one photographer. “It’s like you’re going to meet the Pope!” It was an arguably religious experience for some: The D&G- sponsored Cinema Society screening of “The Twilight Saga: New Moon” was attended by its vigilantly followed team of actors. Though the teenage fans lining the streets outside the theater seemed relatively subdued, inside, the cast confessed to many an odd run-in. “I just had a man’s wife propose to me for him even though they’re married,” laughed Ashley Greene. “And I was like, ‘Are you joking?’ And she was like, ‘No he really loves you.’ And I was like, ‘So you don’t want him anymore?’” “The weirdest thing is just when people start crying,” said Kristen Stewart. “I’m just like, ‘No, don’t do that. It’s all good.’” “Today, I was with Rob and I pretty much got tackled,” said Kellan Lutz. “And another fan wanted to lick my face.” Robert Pattinson, the much-longed-for man of the hour was calm, but reticent. Robert Pattinson in Has dealing with those lovelorn girls gotten any easier? Dolce & Gabbana. Ashley Greene “Not really.” in D&G. How does he handle being a sex symbol? “I don’t know if I am, really.”

But perhaps the biggest testament to the Pattinson er n h s Kristen Stewart in a effect was the sheer number of tiny tweens racing c Burberry trench and around the theater and, a bit disconcertingly, The Box, Valentino dress. site of the after party. As Joan Jett, Ed Westwick, Michelle Buswell and Elizabeth Reaser hung out in the second- floor wings, one guest expressed some concern. “There were a couple of girls sitting on the stage where [performers] normally stick things up their steve ei others by

fannies,” he said. “That’s just wrong.” ll

• • • N; a It was a virtual NBC reunion on Thursday night at the American Museum of AWSO

Natural History’s annual Gala, when event chairman Lorne Michaels wrangled L A his coterie of “Saturday Night Live” players — including Andy Samberg, N Caroline Kristen Wiig and Fred Armisen — and other network stars such as Alec Baldwin, DEA Tom Brokaw and Jimmy Fallon for the fund-raiser. (Non-NBCers such as Caroline by Kennedy ey

Ed Westwick n Schlossberg Kennedy Schlossberg, Bono, and Tom and Kathy Freston were also in attendance.)

in D&G. Cra

Dave Matthews Band, slated to perform on the weekend’s episode of c “SNL,” served as the evening’s musical talent. Naturally, the night was not M MC;

without a few laughs. Fallon treated the audience to his best Brokaw. “After P working at NBC long enough, we all start sounding the same,” the TV host N/

said, mimicking the anchor’s distinct, low mumble. DHOR Dave Matthews L HI

“That was a third-rate imitation, Jimmy,” Brokaw shot back. and Alec Baldwin C S

OE Kathy Freston in Peter Sorenen with Bono. J by atthews m d n o a n bo d; n a l Lexie More photos by ” n

Taylor Lautner Jimmy Fallon and Moo in D&G. Joseph Gordon-Levitt Joan Jett “New

Hot young actors are easy to come by. Hot young arrested because we’d do these plays on street corners. Because if playwrights? Unsurprisingly, less so. But age is the least enticing Tarell Alvin we were going to do outreach it had to be work that would grab the reason to see Tarell Alvin McCraney’s trilogy “The Brother/Sister Plays” McCraney person walking down the street,” explains McCraney, who learned currently at the Public Theater. Simply put, the boy’s got talent. about everything from Augusto Boal guerrilla theater tactics to Viola Born in Miami, McCraney studied at a performing arts high Spolin improv techniques. er school before moving to Chicago to attend DePaul University. After graduating, he worked at the Steppenwolf Theater company, CHANGE CHANGE CHANGE: McCraney studied acting at DePaul and spent where he was cast in its “Theatrical Essays,” directed by Tina the year after graduating going on casting calls. And it was through them h Landau. Since then, he’s earned an MFA from the Yale School of that he found the impetus to write “The Brothers Size” (the second part Drama, where he also received the Cole Porter Playwriting Award; of the trilogy, which was originally produced on its own). has just finished serving as a fellow at Princeton University, and “Every time I would go for an audition for a play it was either is an international writer in residence at the prestigious Royal ‘A Raisin in the Sun’ or ‘A Lesson Before Dying.’ It was like the Shakespeare Company in London. Oh, and he is only 29 years old. same black plays over and over again,” he recalls. “I just thought to With “The Brother/Sister Plays,” he brings an eclectic voice to myself, ‘There must be something else for us to do besides these five the New York theater scene, telling the story of a Louisiana family same plays.’” through a mixture of Yoruba mythology, Shakespearean rhythm, hip- hop music and dance. GULF STREAM: The three works in “The Brother/Sister Plays” are all — Vanessa Lawrence set in Louisiana, a place McCraney finds particularly poignant. “Growing up around the Everglades and the bayou, where one STREET STYLE: When McCraney was 13, his mother went into minute you could be standing in 12 centimeters of water and the next , brot rehab at the Village South in Miami where they had a group that be down to a 20 foot gap, it’s just a very precarious place,” he explains. enlisted kids like himself to act in and direct plays on social issues “They are inspired by European and African cosmology, but they are also throughout the community. very American. And I think that’s what’s true “This program was about trying to go to people whose lives had about the Gulf Coast and also America: there’s a already been affected by drugs and alcohol and HIV and talk to them mixture of so many things layered on each other

Oh about the choices they could make. Sometimes we would almost get and they reflect and refract each other.” NOT THE KING GOLDEN DIOR With the house of Lacroix Henry Paulson, then At the Dior atelier on Paris’s the Treasury secretary, in his fi ling for bankruptcy, and Yves Saint Rue François 1er, model Caroline offi ce last September, the Trentini poses in the “Gisele month Lehman fell and the Laurent gone, some fear that Inspired by Irving Penn” look from bailout took shape. the fall/winter couture collection haute couture is fi nished. But Paris’s of 2007–8 by John Galliano. Opposite, Wenda Parkinson in Paradise Lost fashion phoenix has survived Christian Dior’s 1949 hussar-style HENRY world war, cultural revolution, and velvet-and-wool tailleur and black-fox muff , in Paris. Don and Betty’s economic meltdown, reshaped KEEPING UP WITH to fi t the times. Tracing its lineage— THE DRAPERS Worth, Poiret, Chanel, Dior, Jon Hamm and January Jones, and onward—AMY FINE COLLINS Mad PAULSON’S channeling their Men characters. describes the current incarnation: Photographed at the spectacular shows accessible to Lightbourne House, in Lyford Cay, Nassau, millions on the Internet and a the Bahamas. new global client base in the Middle LONGEST East, India, and China NIGHT In 2006, Goldman Sachs C.E.O. Henry Paulson reluctantly became Treasury secretary for an unpopular, lame-duck president. History will score his decisions, but the former Dartmouth offensive lineman defi nitely Entering its third season on a fresh wave of left everything on the fi eld. In private conversations throughout his term, Emmy nominations, AMC’s Mad Men is the most as crisis followed crisis—Bear Stearns, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, stylish—and perhaps best—show on television. Lehman Brothers, A.I.G., and so forth—Paulson gave Inside its meticulous reconstruction of the precipice TODD S. PURDUM the inside track, from the political lunacy that was New York advertising circa 1960, where and bailout plans to the sleepless nights and fl at-out fear, as he the men and women of Sterling Cooper smoke, drink, love, and lie, BRUCE HANDY learns about battled the greatest economic disruption in 80 years the struggle of Mad Men creator (and former Sopranos writer) Matthew Weiner, the casting of Jon Hamm and January Jones as

t was February 2008, and Henry M. Paulson Jr., a prince of Wall Street turned secretary of the Trea- Don and Betty Draper, and the obsession sury, was refl ecting on his biggest achievement to date: a $168 billion economic-stimulus package that that fuels each episode had passed Congress four days earlier after swift, bipartisan progress through both houses. In light of all the later twists and turns that the global fi nancial system and the national economy took, this measure would come to seem quaint and fainthearted. But at the time, it was a very big deal indeed, and Paulson felt justifi ably proud. The stimulus had been his baby. Paulson had persuaded George W. Bush, whose relations with both parties in Congress were by then close to toxic, to articulate only the broadest principles, and not to present a detailed plan. Paulson himself, in endless night and weekend negotiations with congressional leaders, had delivered the fi nal package. “Nancy Pelosi to me was a wonder in this deal, and she was available 24-7, anytime I called her on the cell phone,” Paulson told me, his hulking frame unfolding in a comfortable chair in his offi ce TOUJOURS COUTURE at the Treasury, dominated by an oil portrait of his fi rst pred e ces sor, Alexander Hamilton. “She was Iengaged, she was decisive, and she was really willing to just get involved with all of her people on a

316 VANITY FAIR www.vanityfair.com SEPTEMBER 2009 PHOTOGRAPH BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER • STYLED BY SARAJANE HOARE 317 210 VANITY FAIR www.vanityfair.com OCTOBER 2009 OCTOBER 2009 VANITY FAIR 211 268 PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ • STYLED BY MICHAEL ROBERTS SEPTEMBER 2009 www.vanityfair.com VANITY FAIR 269

ThaT’s why They buy us pure demand

IN A MARkET WHERE DEMAND IS IN SHORT SUPPLY, CONSUMER DEMAND fOR Vanity Fair HAS NEvER BEEN STRONGER

MORE COPIES SOLD AT A HIGHER PRICE Four issues in a row sold over 400,000 on newsstands, with the highest cover price in history. More subscriptions sold than ever before, with an average subscription price 13% higher than it was in 2001.

LARGEST MRI-MEASURED AUDIENCE IN HISTORY 6.8 million adults each month; an increase of 1.4 million readers since 2001.

MORE PEOPLE SPENDING MORE TIME ON THE WEB The average monthly uniques on vf.com have tripled, while the average time spent has increased by 80% since 2007.

CRUZ MISSILE BRAVE NEW WORLD AN ACTOR PREPARES Not since Titanic The actress, Robert Pattinson in photographed at The First Couple, unleashed Leo-mania has an Montauk, New York. Spring Studios on the inaugural-parade route “There’s every reason for a in London. to the White House, wave to actor sparked the overnight young actor to phone it in New the adoring crowd gathered along on a franchise,” says adulation that greeted Moon director Chris Weitz. Pennsylvania Avenue. Robert Pattinson’s 2008 debut “But Rob and Kristen [Stewart] take it really, The as Edward Cullen in Twilight. really seriously.” As the vampire saga’s next installment arrives, PA SSIONS EVGENIA PERETZ explores the frenzy, isolation, and sheer embarrassment of Pattinson’s past year, his instant connection with co-star of Kristen Stewart, and the life he wants when this PENÉLOPE $10 million gig is over With two new movies—Broken Embraces, her fourth fi lm with director Pedro Almodóvar, and Rob Marshall’s big-name musical extravaganza, Nine— Penélope Cruz is mining both the Spanish roots that made her an actress and the hard-won Hollywood breakthrough that made her an international star. INGRID SISCHY taps into the fi erce passions of the Oscar-winning enchantress, whether for her directors, her leading men (including current fl ame Javier Bardem), or the cinema itself Enter Obama As America thrilled to the inauguration of its 44th president and a new First Lady, the West Wing was fi lling with a kaleidoscopic army of policy aces, whiz kids, and veteran advisers, all focused on the long-haul, no-drama work to which Barack has called them. These are the civilian front lines of “We the People,” photographed by ANNIE LEIBOVITZ for the following pages. MAUREEN ORTH assesses a moment, a White House, and a movement

154 PHOTOGRAPHS BY MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT • STYLED BY JESSICA DIEHL NOVEMBER 2009 www.vanityfair.com VANITY FAIR 155 250 VANITY FAIR www.vanityfair.com MARCH 2009 MARCH 2009 www.vanityfair.com VANITY FAIR 251 2100 VANVNV AANN ITY FAIRFA www.vanityfair.comwww.vanityfair.com DDECEMBERECEMBER 2009 PPHPHOTOGRAPHSOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE WWEBERE B E R • STYLED BY DEBORAH WATSOWATSONN 211

photo credits. clockwise from top left: NormAN pArkiNsoN, pAtrick demArchelier, NiGel pArrY (from cpi sYNdicAtioN), ANNie leibovitz, mert AlAs & mArcus piGGott, ANNie leibovitz, bruce weber. sources—circulAtioN: Abc rApid report estimAtes, JulY-october 2009, Abc publisher stAtemeNt, JuNe 30, 2009; AudieNce: mri doublebAse 2009; web trAffic: Ytd 2009 visuAl scieNces. 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009

Alexis Bittar’s Lucite necklace with Crystallized- Swarovski Elements, Sequin’s Lucite and crystal cuff and resin earrings from Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz. Manish Arora’s paillette leggings with a sequin tank from Lia Kes.

Sequin’s Lucite and crystal necklace, glass ring from Lolipop Glass by Jonathan Leon, Lucite bracelet from Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz, Hue’s nylon and spandex tights and Madison Harding’s shoes. Dress from Adidas by Stella McCartney.

Cara Croninger’s acrylic and resin earrings and cuff, Paige Novick’s quartz necklace and Chrissy Cook’s sterling silver rings. Falke’s nylon and spandex tights with Jen Kao’s dress. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Alexis Bittar’s rhodium brooch; Delphine Charlotte Parmentier’s brass, tin and acetate ring, and Jen Kao’s Lucite and chain-mail clutch. Madeleine Thompson’s sheer caftan and Wundervoll’s bra and underwear.

get KIERNAN EADDY ASSISTANT: FASHION FOR DIOR BEAUTY; MISUZU MIYAKE BY iced MAKEUP Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but glass, acrylic and crystal accessories with cool silver TRESEMME; accents can be just as sharp. — Court Williams

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO USING TANIGUCHI RYAN HAIR BY KELLY/FUSION; MODEL: FLYNN 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM Ann Taylor Back in Black FASHION SCOOPS ONLY IN VEGAS: Tiffany & Co. has commissioned three exclusive pieces By David Moin “The promotional stance for the third quarter for its soon-to-open Las Vegas flagship in CityCenter’s Crystals retail was much different than the second quarter,” Krill Xanadu. The three cover a broad retail spectrum: a silver Las Vegas AnnTaylor Stores Corp. managed a third- said. “The focus shifted to drive more profitable traf- charm with playing card detailing and “Las Vegas” stamped on the quarter profit despite a double-digit sales decline, fic and conversion was highly focused on versatility, back, which sells for $150; a $1,295 sterling “lucky charm” bracelet, and the women’s apparel retailer projected a pro- from desk to dinner. Last year, the assortment was and a diamond-encrusted Tiffany key in platinum that will retail for motional fourth quarter in which sales would come much more occasion-driven.” $15,000. “Vegas as a whole is a different animal than other markets, in “slightly below” those of the most recent period. Repositioning and restructuring efforts over the but we feel that we have a unique range that can reach the highest Nonetheless, the results fueled management’s last several seasons have included high-level man- level of extravagance and the down-to-earth customer,” said Edward confidence in the ongoing repositioning and restruc- agement changes, store closings, instilling more style Gerard, Tiffany & Co.’s general vice president of retail. “Our new turing efforts. and value to the collections, more sharply differen- CityCenter store will have the broadest assortment of all U.S. stores “I feel very good going into the holiday period,” tiating Ann Taylor from Loft, and bolstering under- at this location.” Tiffany already has stores in the Bellagio and Forum Kay Krill, Ann Taylor Corp.’s president and chief ex- played categories. Shops at Caesar’s Palace; the Crystals store, combining polished black ecutive officer, told WWD. “We definitely saw some “Overall, our company is operating more efficient- marble, stainless steel and iridescent mirrors, will be three stories traction heading into October and what was exciting ly today and that is translating into higher levels of high with an 85-foot-tall facade along Las Vegas Boulevard. at Ann Taylor was that as inventories built through profitability,” Krill said. September and October, we saw comp sales improve She cited jewelry, specifically bracelets and BEATLES IN TOKYO: Comme des dramatically,” by 25 points. necklaces and anything with sparkle; pencil Garçons feted its much-anticipated The trend, Krill continued, “is even better in skirts; “core essentials,” including tropi- Beatles collection Friday night in November than October.” cal wool pants, skirts and jackets; black Tokyo. Guests at Trading Museum, But on a conference call with analysts, dresses; shoes, and belts, as recent a new concept store by Comme des Krill said she expects a “higher level of best-sellers. However, tops were dif- Garcons that stocks an eclectic mix promotional activity” in the fourth quar- ficult and too weighted with neu- of clothing, accessories and other ter which, despite inventory discipline, tral colors, wool and fashion looks odds and ends for display or sale, would bring margins below the third as opposed to more basic looks. milled about listening to Beatles quarter’s, though they still are expected Next year, Krill said, there will be tunes and browsing the collection. to be above last year’s fourth quarter. a stronger array of color and core Rei Kawakubo was also on hand, For the quarter ended Oct. 31, net pieces. Ann Taylor also missed the dressed in her trademark sunglasses income was $2.1 million, or 3 cents a skinny-leg trend in pants last quar- and head-to-toe black. Yoko Ono cut diluted share, versus last year’s loss of Kay Krill ter, but is adjusting the mix. Also a similarly dramatic figure. Flanked $13.4 million, or 24 cents. The improve- needed are more opening price points by security people, she greeted ment was driven by fewer promotions, in certain categories at Ann Taylor, such Kawakubo briefly before posing for sharp inventory reductions and cost controls. as suitings, pants and sweaters. a quick photo op and then taking a Yoko Ono and Rei Kawakubo Excluding restructuring and impairment charg- At Loft, boyfriend and skinny jeans, knit tops with short tour of the store. Adrian Joffe, es, earnings totaled 20 cents a share, beating Wall embellishment, dresses, jewelry and loungewear gen- chief executive officer of Comme des Garçons International, said Street’s 7 cent prediction. erated strong response in the last quarter. reaction to the line was positive thus far. “People want to buy them Revenues fell 12.3 percent to $462.4 million The company ended the quarter with $134 million now, but we’re not selling [until Saturday],” he said. from $527.2 million as comparable-store sales fell in cash and no outstanding debt, having repaid $75 13.7 percent. million in revolving credit. I LOVE PARIS: While slammed with jet lag after landing from New York, By division, net sales at Ann Taylor were $112.3 Krill said the company is in the process of “a rig- Alber Elbaz was all smiles Friday afternoon as Paris Mayor Bertrand million, compared with $159.5 million in the year- orous portfolio analysis,” involving 11 conversions of Delanoë presented him with the Grande Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville ago quarter, with comps dropping 25.8 percent. Loft’s Ann Taylor units to Lofts, and 45 closings through de Paris, an honorary distinction given to cultural figures who have net sales were $234 million compared with $263 mil- fiscal 2009, including 28 in January. A comprehen- an impact on the city. In his speech in the gilded rooms of city hall, lion in the third quarter of 2008, with comps down sive plan will be revealed during the year-end call Elbaz thanked Chloé honcho Ralph Toledano for “opening the doors 9.7 percent. in March. to Paris” by recruiting him from Geoffrey Beene to Guy Laroche, and Asked what women are shopping for, Krill replied: For the fourth quarter, total sales are seen as to Lanvin owner Shaw-Lan Wang for welcoming him eight years ago “Versatility and value are really the two things. She is slightly below the third quarter’s, with sequential as her creative director. Before the presentation, Elbaz mused on the buying items that work very hard for her and she also comp-store improvement. Fourth-quarter comp sales other things he loves best about Paris: “There’s so many things. It’s a wants to feel very smart about her purchases.” at Ann Taylor are seen in the negative low- to mid- dream city and it’s a city of dreamers.” Then, in a “eureka” moment, Lower inventories and fewer promotions drove teens, while Loft’s comps are projected to be flat to he added: “I will be original, and I will say Parisians!” the retailer’s gross margin rate to 57.3 percent from slightly positive. 48.8 percent. ­— With contributions from Alexandra Steigrad LAURENS TO GREENWICH: Ralph and Ricky Lauren milled around the first floor of their new Greenwich store Saturday, talking to customers who were admiring the new 19,000-square-foot addition to Greenwich Avenue. Roger Farah, chief operating officer and president of Polo Ralph Lauren, was also on the scene, conversing with customers and checking out the merchandise. While scaffolding is still covering up Swarovski Crystallizes Men’s Collection the outside of the store, it didn’t stop passersby from going inside, sipping some Champagne and enjoying the complimentary Polo By Amanda Kaiser clude Masaya Kuroki and Gildas Loaec of Kitsune; cookies. “Why don’t you carry children’s?” one customer, with several Arashi Yanagawa of John Lawrence Sullivan; Hiroki kids in tow, asked the designer, who seemed amenable to the idea. TOKYO — Swarovski is tapping into the world of Nakamura of Visvim; Joe-Casely Hayford, and Between the new Apple store opening down the block, and a personal men’s wear. Phillip Lim. visit by Lauren himself, Greenwich Avenue was buzzing Saturday. The Austrian company’s components brand Lampe said it was not possible to give a sales Crystallized-Swarovski Elements has linked up with estimate for the collection but he stressed the BODY OF WORK: Delfina Delettrez a group of Japanese and international designers to sale of each item will go directly to the designer. Fendi presented her new jewelry put together a collection of men’s apparel incorpo- Swarovski’s economic benefit derives solely from collection, Anatomik, at New York’s rating Swarovski crystal and synthet- Opening Ceremony Thursday night. ic gemstones. Items include a leather The Fendi family heiress showcased jacket, a denim shirt, moccasin-style Looks from the collection. her borderline obsession with the shoes and a slew of dazzling shirts human body through an array of and jackets for evening. anatomically inspired pieces in Swarovski is presenting the col- the shape of eyes, lips, hands and lection to retailers here in a bid to skulls. Styles ranged from a hand- show that crystal-studded clothing shaped sterling silver cuff cradling and accessories can work in a com- semiprecious stones to a sapphire mercial context and not just as state- and gold skull ring with cabochon ment pieces on a runway, explained sapphires, pearls and black and Markus D. Lampe, the company’s se- cognac diamonds. “I have always nior vice president of marketing. The been fascinated with the body; I project will be presented to retailers don’t know why,” Delettrez Fendi in Europe and the U.S. next year. Delfina Delettrez Fendi said. “From the mouth to the feet, “In the end it’s critical for us. It’s it’s very inspiring to me — especially different to all [our previous design- the hands.” Jen Brill, Amy Greenspon and Fe Fendi were among er] initiatives in that there is this those admiring the Anatomik collection, which retails from $450 to immediate commercial impact,” $65,000 at Opening Ceremony’s New York and Los Angeles outposts. Lampe said, acknowledging the company has felt the impact of the BIG HAUL: The second auction of objects belonging to Yves Saint recession. As reported, Swarovski the sale of the components used to make Laurent and Pierre Bergé reached a total of 9 million euros, or $13.4 has made significant job cuts over the garment. million, more than doubling an initial estimate of up to 4 million the last 18 months. WwD Swarovski has no plans to do a women’s euros, or $6 million. Auction house Christie’s said almost all the Swarovski linked up with in- collection in a similar vein, but one of its 1,200 items were sold at the end of the four-day sale, often beating fluential fashion editor and stylist Men’s upcoming projects does target the female set, initial expectations by a surprisingly large margin. An umbrella stand Tomoki Sukezane to stage the exhibi- Lampe revealed. Next year, the company will originally expected to fetch up to 500 euros, or $745, went for tion. Under his guidance, each designer work with a number of designers to reinterpret the 109,000 euros, or $162,475. A set of Hermès suitcases estimated or brand came up with its own take on the dinner little black dress, he said. The one-off creations will at up to 6,000 euros, or $8,943, was sold for 29,800 euros, or jacket and dress shirt plus a few more pieces of be auctioned, and the proceeds will benefit a breast $44,420. The proceeds from the auction will be destined to HIV their choosing. The participating designers in- cancer organization. research and the fight against AIDS. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 9 WWD.COM MEMO PAD Conference Examines O LIVES IN PRINT: Hearst Magazines isn’t terribly WU WOOS FAHEY: Anne Fahey is leaving her worried about Oprah Winfrey’s exit from her talk role as CM Media’s vice president of business show in 2011. Winfrey plans to end her broadcast development to go in-house at Jason Wu. TV program in September 2011, and in January Effective Dec.15, Fahey will be Wu’s vice Tech’s Effect on Luxe 2011 will launch her own cable network, OWN, to president of communications, marketing and develop and appear in original programming. With business development, a new role. Fahey and Wu By Melissa Drier the talk show’s demise, O — and its advertisers aren’t strangers — she has been handling Wu’s and sponsors — lose a huge promotional outlet. For public relations efforts at CM Media for two years. BERLIN — Seen as both an opportunity and a threat, technology is now an example, Winfrey in January broke her silence about In her new role, “I will be assisting Jason [Wu] unavoidable factor to be reckoned with in the luxury market. And whether her weight gain with an essay in the magazine and in virtually all phases of his business including it’s virtual retailing, social networking or any manner of digital or cyber- a before-and-after image of herself for the cover. public and media relations, as well as global space advance, luxury brands no longer have the option of sidestepping She used the topic as a kickoff to Oprah’s “Best marketing and business development,” Fahey technology. Life Week,” a weeklong series on her Web site, said. Fahey had joined CM Media in 2006 with That was the consensus of the International Herald Tribune’s Techno Sirius radio show and on the TV talk show geared the mission to bring in emerging talents. Prior to Luxury conference held here last week. toward life improvement. The January issue sold this, she had held senior public relations posts at “The luxury market hasn’t embraced early enough or completely 1.1 million single copies, the largest in three years. Cartier and Chanel. — Marc Karimzadeh enough the opportunities of new technology,” IHT fashion editor Suzy The magazine has 18 months to prepare for the Menkes told WWD shortly before the conference kicked off. This year’s demise of what is the ultimate cross-promotional HOUSE SWAP: She’s trading in her white lab technology focus was spurred, in part, by her experience of chief execu- platform, but it is already planning to tap OWN coat for armadillo shoes. Alexander McQueen tive officers’ discomfort when queried about a company’s online activities. for that purpose. “We view the launch of her own has named Samantha Garrett to the post of “All I’d get is a grimace, compared to the tremendous enthusiasm to how 24-hour cable network as a thrilling next chapter communications director, effective Jan. 6. Since they embrace a new store,” she said. for Oprah and a very positive thing for O,” said 2005, Garrett managed international press and “Technology shouldn’t be scary,” stated Burberry chief creative of- a magazine spokeswoman. “OWN presents lots public relations for Maison Martin Margiela. Her ficer Christopher Bailey. Together with ceo Angela Ahrendts, Bailey has of great opportunities for integration with the résumé also includes stints at the p.r. agencies powered Burberry into the virtual and digital forefront both online and magazine and will enable consumers to get their KCD and Totem. At McQueen, Garrett takes over in-house via the use of blogs, Twitter, Facebook, Burberry TV, its own so- ‘Oprah fix’ around the clock.” O maintains a from Janet Fischgrund, who held the title of p.r. cial networking site, consumer e-brochures, digital look books, digital and 2.4 million circulation and sells about 700,000 consultant. — Miles Socha e-commerce links to fashion shows, digital design tools, global videocon- copies on newsstands monthly, but ad pages for ferencing, motion sensor lights, a monitor and iPod on every desk, Wi-Fi, the magazine fell 26 percent this THE GIRLS FROM BRAZIL: Pirelli Skype, a digital photo studio that can get images online in two hours and year, to 1,349. Before “The Oprah unveiled the 2010 edition of so on. Winfrey Show” celebrates 25 years its famed calendar Thursday in “We always talk about technology as something we do, not that we have on air in its final season, O will London, shot for the first time to remember to do,” Bailey said. Of course, it helps if you’re a self-ac- celebrate its 10th anniversary this by Terry Richardson. The fashion knowledged techie and gadget lover, as both Bailey and Ahrendts are. But spring with events and promotions. snapper lensed the model-filled, it’s been Burberry strategy, he said, “to integrate real technology in all that As reported this fall, O is under R-rated collectible at the Uxua Casa we do. It’s always budgeted.” transition under new editor in chief Hotel, a rustic getaway in Brazil And the payback? Connectivity with ateliers and offices has reduced Susan Casey, and has hired several opened this year by Wilbert Das, the company air travel by 17 percent, digital look books have saved 32 tons of new editors and a new design team, recently departed creative director paper, online sales are growing rapidly and Burberry’s broad online pres- including design director Patrick of Diesel. Located in Trancoso on ence provides the brand “with a much broader insight into the consumer Mitchell and art director Gillian the Bahian coastline, the resort and you can build more of a story,” Bailey said. Berenson. — Stephanie D. Smith hosted Richardson and his posse — There’s a tweet every 25 seconds, there have been more than 700,000 including Lily Cole, Daisy Lowe and visits on Facebook and the recently launched site Artofthetrench.com had RUNWAY WALKS OFF: “Project Ana Beatriz Barros — as some of its more than 200,000 postings and 2 million views in its first week, Bailey Runway” ended season six on a high first guests in May for the shoot. reported. “One thing that struck me with our Facebook fans is how many note, but not all of its fans migrated Richardson’s Pirelli shots young people are entering the brand via fragrance. We’re talking to a new, from Bravo to Lifetime to watch feature no retouching. “A great junior audience,” he said. the program. The finale drew 4.2 Rosie Huntington-Whiteley photographer captures the moment Another virtual standard-bearer, Gucci creative director Frida million viewers on Thursday night, with Terry Richardson. — that’s why I shoot without extra Giannini, also has embraced all that Internet and digital technology has closing its first season on Lifetime. equipment and without assistants,” to offer. Giannini pointed out that 16- to 24-year-olds spend more than 47 That audience is slightly smaller than the 4.8 said Richardson of the project. percent of their time on the Web versus 3 percent who read newspapers million viewers of season five’s finale, which aired Richardson knew Das from his previous work and magazines. “And to reach this new generation — the customer of the on Bravo. Throughout the season, Lifetime gathered on Diesel advertising campaigns. Of his new gig future — it’s important to interact in a new way.” 3.2 million viewers on average, slightly lower than as a hotelier, Das called Uxua a labor of love. “To That interaction includes Facebook, which Gucci updates three times season five’s 3.6 million fans. Season six moved to work side by side with Bahian craftsmen using a day for its close to 500,000 fans; a constant stream of tweeting on Twitter; Lifetime after the network paid $200 million for the their own methods was one of the best working a video crew that trails Giannini for Web postings; the brand’s special iP- show and its spin-offs, but the show remained in experiences I ever had,” he noted. Das also hone apps; the social networking microsite Reflect & Connect photo gal- limbo for several months when Bravo parent NBC emphasized the choice to leave Diesel was his, lery; online shopping (in force since 2002), and Gucci’s Web site, which Universal sued The Weinstein Co., the program’s after working there more than two decades, and will be revamped with more animation in about six months’ time. producer, for breach of contract. The suit was that he expects to return to the fashion industry “The more you create free access to the brand, the more you create a eventually settled out of court. — S.D.S. in a new capacity. — David Lipke Gucci community. And that’s the future,” she declared. The two-day conference brought together a string of luxury players, techno advocates and cyberspace pioneers, the most zealous of whom, BEAUTY BEAT like luxury online activist Uché Okonkwo or Net-a-porter founder Natalie Massenet, foresee an online-dominated retail universe. With the site now in its 10th year, Massenet said the focus was to develop Net-a-Porter into Forever 21 Launches Beauty Line its own brand and own content, but the next 10 years would see the de- signer online retail site “becoming more open to the consumer and letting By Rachel Brown quality as prestige vendors, but at Forever 21 her express herself.” prices,” Nagle said. Newcomer fashion retail site Fashionair bowed in September with an Forever 21 is translating its warp She described the cosmetics as being mer- interactive video-rich format, “because 47 to 54 percent of our target group speed runway-to-rack formula to beauty with chandised together in prime shopping square watch videos,” according to founder Sojin Lee. “We felt what was missing the launch of the brand love & beauty. footage at the stores with full love & beauty online was the emotional, joyous moment of being a shopper.” Fashionair While Zara and H&M have broken into beau- selections. During a recent visit to a For Love took its inspiration from the gaming industry to create an experiential ty abroad, love & beauty marks the first major 21, which is Forever 21’s accessories-focused fashion platform that also runs like a TV network with a fixed schedule entrance into beauty of a fast-fashion retailer store, at Beverly Center mall in Los Angeles, of video fashion features. Next year will see Fashionair aiming to set up on U.S. soil. Los Angeles-based Forever 21 Inc. love & beauty items were placed on two siz- affiliate deals and branded microsites “to allow brands to access the net- started this month planting the able display tables and two work and create a virtual shopping mall,” said Lee. full 145 stockkeeping unit se- sets of bookcase-style shelves Jefferson Hack, group editorial director of the Dazed Group (including lection of love & beauty at 135 near the entrance. Dazed & Confused, Another Magazine and dazeddigital.com), is reacting to locations and a partial selec- Love & beauty is mostly the uncertainties of the online revolution in the media world with online tion of the line at the remain- packaged in black and clear exuberance. “We’ve come up with a new genre of storytelling (for Dazed ing around 305 stores. plastic with the logo written Digital) with short, one- to three-minute fashion films. Developed by young “It made sense as a next in cursive in silver, black or designers, it’s a cost-effective way to get their message out there and re- step,” said Forever 21 spokes- white. Nagle singled out kits, place fashion shows,” said Hack. woman Kirstin Nagle. “If you including a Smoky Eye Kit and Up and running since fall 2006, dazeddigital.com has 1.9 million stories think of our customer, she an upcoming Mineral Face Kit viewed each month, “and that’s growing 10 percent each month. Content is loves being on trend and, to and Bronzing Kit, as probable being consumed and created simultaneously on the Web. That’s what we complete her look, we had ev- bestsellers. have to get our head around.” erything in our stores except Items from love & beauty. Forever 21 has built a big As for fashion and technology, Vivienne Tam and her “digital clutch” the cosmetics piece.” business — and collected quite laptops for Hewlett-Packard were also in Berlin. HP senior vice president Forever 21 has begun with a wide-ranging a few foes in the fashion industry who accuse the of global marketing Satjiv Chahil said no one was willing to make a fore- assortment that covers lips, eyes, face, nails, retailer of copying designs — by bringing the lat- cast when Tam’s laptop was launched on the runway for spring 2009, but fragrance and tools and accessories such as est designer craze cheaply to consumers. Nagle it “sold over five times the forecast within four months. The embarrassing cosmetic bags, tweezers and makeup brushes. suggested that model would extend to beauty. part is that there are no products left.” The items are priced to move and nothing is Forever 21 is expected to reach $2.3 billion A second clutch in a signature butterfly pattern is due out for spring. more than $10. in sales this year, and industry sources esti- For Tam, technology can be luxury. “It makes the impossible possible, “We are using a lot of the vendors that are mate that beauty could generate $60 million and that’s a luxury for my designs,” she remarked. “And it saves time, making prestige cosmetics. It is the same in first-year sales. which is also a luxury.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM ICSC Preview The Retail Evolution of West 34th Street By Sharon Edelson The retail mix in the neighborhood has improved since the Nineties. Liquidators with permanent “going out of business sale” signs in their windows have been large- NEW YORK — The transformation of West 34th Street has been on a steadily upward ly replaced by national chains with sleek facades. There’s a question about how trajectory. Now the gentrification is starting to push west and south even as stores upscale 34th Street can ultimately become. The consensus seems to be that fashion- continue to open on the prime block between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. oriented, midprice stores do very well, but anything too high end or edgy may not Conway, the discount clothing store with its bins of bargains and cheap clothing play on 34th Street. So far, retailers with populist products have generated high squeezed onto rounders, has had a big presence in the area for years. Local real sales volumes. estate sources said the retailer’s stores at 245 West 34th Street and 225-253 West 34th In the last decade, rents have risen tenfold, from $60 a square foot to $500 to $600 a Street, both between Seventh and Eighth Avenues, are on the market. Ricky Cohen, square foot in 2007, real estate brokers said. In the last two years, rents have lost some vice president of Conway, couldn’t be reached for comment. ground to the recession. A November report by the Real Estate Board of New York Sources also said the Conway-controlled 11 West 34th Street, where Shoe Mania is reported asking rents have dropped 35 percent on West 34th Street between Fifth and located, is on the market. Another Conway location, at 1333 Broadway and 35th Street, Seventh Avenues to $421 a square foot. was slated to close in February, although the landlord reportedly extended Conway’s What hasn’t fallen off is pedestrian traffic. According to the 34th Street Partnership, lease for 15 months. 100 million people pass through the four corners of 34th Street and Broadway annu- “Clearly the district is trading up,” said Daniel Pisark, vice president of retail ser- ally. One million public transit users a day walk through the district. A PATH station vices for the 34th Street Partnership and Bryant Park. “Seventh Avenue has always and IND subway station are located under the Manhattan Mall. been heavily controlled by Conway, and we believe that’s about to change.” Penney’s first Manhattan unit, a 150,000-square-foot store at the Manhattan Mall, The retail tenants at 14 Penn Plaza, also known as 225 West 34th Street, have been opened in August and was a vote of confidence in the neighborhood. The store, which

Some of the retailers on West 34th Street.

cleared out in preparation for the building’s overhaul. The property, owned by Dakota has no entrance on the ground floor, is located on the mall’s two lower levels. The Realty Group, is being gutted. When finished, it will have close to 50,000 square feet prospect of big volumes prompted Penney’s to open in the less-than-perfect space. of new retail space. Gap’s largest-volume store is at 34th Street and Sixth Avenue. Macy’s flagship is said Howard Johnson’s at 215 West 34th Street is slated for demolition in the spring, to generate about $650 million to $675 million in annual volume. Pisark said. The new building will have 60 feet of frontage. “The retail revitalization Retailers are choosing to open some of their largest stores on 34th Street. Geox that spread [as far as] Seventh Avenue will finally make the leap over the Seventh recently opened a 6,000-square-foot flagship at 29 West 34th Street between Fifth and Avenue and march toward Eighth Avenue,” Pisark said. Sixth Avenues. The store, which houses the company’s first showroom in the U.S., A large construction development at 885 Sixth Avenue will give a lift to the southwest was designed to highlight Geox’s apparel collection. Coming soon to the block of 34th corner of 32nd Street. A new 48- to 50-story luxury residential building under construc- Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues is an 18,000-square-foot Esprit flagship at tion will have 47,000 square feet of retail space spread over three floors. The Manhattan 21-25 West 34th Street. Apple leased the building in 2006, then decided it didn’t want Mall and J.C. Penney are on the opposite side of 32nd Street. Benjamin Fox, president to open a store on 34th Street. Apple subsequently subleased it to Esprit. It will be of Winnick Realty Group, said, “One tenant would always be ideal, but that’s a challenge. Esprit’s largest store in North America and second largest worldwide. It’s designed so that we can divide it into two spaces. I’ve gotten inquiries,” even though Aéropostale on Tuesday held a soft opening at its flagship at 15 West 34th Street. it’s not scheduled to open until second-quarter 2011. Asking rent for the retail space is Despite the fact that there was no advertising or promotion to announce the store, the $300 for the ground floor, $100 for the second floor and $75 for the third floor. 5,700-square-foot space was packed with shoppers of different age groups. Thomas “It’s an extraordinarily busy corner,” Fox said. “There’s Penney’s, Macy’s, Gap, Johnson, executive vice president and chief operating officer of Aéropostale, stood Victoria’s Secret and Old Navy. Also, 32nd Street is a main east-west pedestrian feed- on the sidewalk in front of the store looking on in amazement. “I’m very excited,” he er street.” said. “Fifteen subway lines converge here.”

and their plans, including Auto Zone, Dollar Tree Stores Inc., Game Stop, Planet Fitness, REI Sporting Goods, ICSC: Smaller, but More Hopeful ShopRite, Sonic and TD Bank. Separately, the ICSC Foundation unveiled the launch in 2010 of the Mary Lou Fiala Fellowship, which was By David Moin October’s 2.1 percent increase in comparable store made possible by a gift of $100,000 from Regency Centers sales, according to the ICSC. to the foundation in honor of Mary Lou Fiala, who The head count will be down, but the mood Morrison acknowledged real estate activity, from con- served as the association’s 49th worldwide chairman. should be up at the International Council of Shopping struction to leasing, has been restricted with financing Before stepping down in March, Fiala was president and Centers National Conference in New York. drying up and most retailers skittish about expansion. chief operating officer of Regency Centers Corp., a real About 5,000 shopping center owners, developers, lend- “We’re looking forward, finally, to a better 2010,” he estate investment trust that owns, operates and develops ers, retailers and brokers are expected to attend, which added. Already, “Deals are starting to happen. People grocery-anchored and community shopping centers. is roughly 1,000 fewer than last year. “Given the state of seem more spirited. They don’t seem as down as they “Mary Lou has been the consummate chief operat- things, this will be a pretty strong showing,” said Marvin were in the middle of the year.” ing officer since 1999, providing extraordinary leader- Morrison, senior vice president at the ICSC. “There are On the agenda for the conference: ship for Regency as well as the industry,” said Martin E. over 400 exhibiting companies —­ that’s unchanged.” • Sessions on the state of the industry and the future, “Hap” Stein, Regency Center’s chairman and ceo. The conference, to be held at the Hilton New York with Michael Kercheval, ICSC’s president and chief The fellowship will be awarded annually to someone and Sheraton New York Hotel & Towers on Dec. 7 and executive officer; Peter Sharpe, president and ceo of who exemplifies passion and commitment to retail real 8, has been condensed to two days from three to help The Cadillac Fairview, and luncheon speaker William estate and a commitment to helping others through ser- keep everyone’s costs down, though the opening day this A. Ackman, founder and trustee of Pershing Square vice in their communities, professions or fields of re- year has been extended by five hours, giving attendees Capital Management. search. Each fellow will pursue a project to benefit and enough time to network, negotiate leases and financing, • The conference’s first “reconnect pavilion,” which promote the retail real estate industry. The fellowship research new and existing properties and do deals. Morrison described as “a one-stop resource” for mentor- will include a one-year mentorship with an industry “Things are starting to brew,” Morrison said. ing, networking and career and job placement advice. leader, an all-expense-paid course of study at the John “There is some demand. There is a lot of enthusiasm Representatives from university graduate programs, T. Riordan School of Professional Development; a spe- to meet with peers and engage in some deal-making. professional career counselors, placement officers and cial invitation to attend ReCon, the Global Retail Real Projections for holiday sales are good, albeit conser- industry mentors will be on hand. Estate Convention in Las Vegas, and speaking engage- vative. We are expecting positive results,” following • A “retailer runway” showcasing national retailers ments at industry events. ’Tis the Season

Committed to Your Success • Reinvesting in world-class retail destinations

• Leveraging global expertise

• Driving customer traffi c

www.westfi eld.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009

ICSC Preview Manhattan Retail Rents Slipping Continued from page one “In some areas, the market is so traumatized by dropped 35 percent to $421 a square foot. Asking upheaval, no one knows what the right thing is to rents in the Financial District on Broadway, be- do with rents,” said Michael Slattery, senior vice tween Battery Park and Chambers Street, declined president of REBNY. “Some have decided not to 25 percent to $189, followed by 24 percent decreases do anything and just watch. There’s no standard on East 86th Street, between Lexington and Second way of behaving anymore.” Avenues, to $363, and on Columbus Avenue, between Some landlords are offering limited free rent 66th and 79th Streets, to $229. periods and other concessions, such as an allow- On the upside, asking rents on Fifth Avenue, ance of $20 a square foot toward improvements. between 49th and 59th Streets, home to Bergdorf “The market is softer,” Slattery said. Goodman, Tiffany & Co., Giorgio Armani, Louis “Some spaces on 34th Street have been for rent Vuitton and other luxury retailers, rose 46 per- for a while,” said Michael Hoffman, senior man- cent to $2,050 a square foot. Meatpacking District aging director of real estate consultancy Colliers rents increased 23 percent to $375; SoHo gained ABR. “If the landlord has no debt on the building 12 percent to $483, and asking rents in the Times and can do a deal, they do a deal. While some folks Square area, on Broadway and Seventh Avenue, haven’t changed asking prices, brokers are saying between 42nd and 47th Streets, increased 6 per- the whisper in their ear is substantially less.” cent to $821. “The global economy contin- ues to have an impact on asking rents for retail space this fall,” said Steven Spinola, president of REBNY, who added stores that had been “priced out of the market now have an entry point for the first time in years.” Despite overall declines, Spinola cited evidence of “solid activity” in the market. In the Herald Square area, for example, this year has seen Smart Business the openings of J.C. Penney’s Tenacity. Teamwork.rk Innovation. first Manhattan flagship, as well as Aéropostale’s first street-front These traits aree wwhat it takes to flagship in the city, along with Geox and soon, Esprit. Tommy Hilfiger launched excel duringg a market downturn. a flagship at Fifth Avenue and 54th Street in September, and They’ree alsalso the key principles that Giorgio Armani opened a flag- ship at Fifth Avenue and 56th shapehape the way we do business. To Street in March. However, Fifth Avenue also has stores of deal with the challenges presented 10,000 square feet and up that are empty, including spaces by retailer bankruptcies and a formerly occupied by Brooks Brothers, the Disney Store and Escada. Topshop and Uniqlo slumping economy, Developers were said to have interest in the vacant locations. Diversified created the Anchor Store Redevelopment group in Top ManhaTTan reTail corridors by changes 2008. This highly-focused leasing in average asking renT per square fooT. and development team quickly 1. Fifth Avenue, between 49th and snapped into action with a strategic 59th Streets change in average asking price asset analysis of our prime from fall 2008: 46% 2. Meatpacking, 14th Street, properties across the country, between Ninth and 10th Avenues change: 23% ensuring that they were re-leased 3. SoHo, Broadway between Houston and Broome Streets change: 12% and thriving. It’s this type of fast 4. Times Square, Broadway and Seventh Avenue, between 42nd action, expertise, and innovative and 47th Streets change: 6% approach that puts Developers 5. Midtown, East 57th Street, between Fifth and Park Avenues Diversified at the intersection of change: 0% 6. West Village, Bleecker Street, smart and business. between Seventh Avenue South and Hudson Street change: -3% 7. Harlem, 125th Street, river to river change: -7% 8. West side, Broadway, between 72nd and 86th Streets* At Homestead Pavilion in Homestead, Florida, our Anchor Store Redevelopment group change: -8% acted quickly to fi ll an available box with a thriving Bed Bath & Beyond. 9. Flatiron, Fifth Avenue, between 14th and 23rd Streets* change: -8% 10. East Side, Third Avenue, between 60th and 72nd streets change: -9% Together,T we break new ground every day. NYSE: DDR / WWW.DDR.COM / 877 CALL DDR Source: real eState Board of New York fall 2009 retail report; *iNdicateS a tie WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 13 WWD.COM ICSC Preview

Herald Square

The Financial Fifth Avenue Times Square District.

The average discount from asking to actual rents in Manhattan can reach as high as 10 to 12 percent. The rent declines cut across the spectrum. The Madison Avenue luxury corridor, from 52nd to 72nd Streets — home of Ralph Lauren, Barneys New York, Chanel and Calvin Klein — dropped 20 percent to $919 a square foot. Celine and Krizia Smart Business departed the area, making way Tenacity. Teamwork.rk Innovation. for Michael Kors and Giorgio’s of Palm Beach. These traits aree wwhat it takes to However, Burberry scooped up space on Madison Avenue be- tween 49th and 50th Streets, cre- excel duringg a market downturn. ating a 68,000-square-foot U.S. headquarters with office space They’ree alsalso the key principles that for 200 employees and the first Burberry London and Burberry shapehape the way we do business. To Brit stand-alone stores. The deal with the challenges presented While some folks by retailer bankruptcies and a haven’t“ changed slumping economy, Developers asking prices, Diversified created the Anchor brokers are saying Store Redevelopment group in the whisper in their 2008. This highly-focused leasing ear is substantially and development team quickly less. snapped into action with a strategic ”— Michael Hoffman, asset analysis of our prime Colliers ABR payoff is a mix of office space properties across the country, and retail, featuring 50-foot Burberry logos on the roof. ensuring that they were re-leased “People are thinking, ‘Am I going to kick myself next year? I probably would’ve missed the and thriving. It’s this type of fast bottom,’” Hoffman said. Asking rents on Fifth Avenue action, expertise, and innovative between 42nd and 49th streets fell 17 percent to $457 a square approach that puts Developers foot. And 125th Street in Harlem, from river to river, was down 7 Diversified at the intersection of percent to $116 a square foot. Although unemployment smart and business. continues to rise and consum- ers have not signaled they are any less focused on value and tightened spending, Faith Hope Consolo, chairman of retail leasing, marketing and sales division for Prudential Douglas Elliman real estate, sees better At Homestead Pavilion in Homestead, Florida, our Anchor Store Redevelopment group times ahead. She predicted the retail vacancy rate in Manhattan acted quickly to fi ll an available box with a thriving Bed Bath & Beyond. would drop to 10 to 12 percent by yearend from the current 18 to 20 percent. “I saw tremendous pickup at the end of the second quarter,” she said. “And third quarter, there Together,T we break new ground every day. NYSE: DDR / WWW.DDR.COM / 877 CALL DDR was a feeding frenzy. We’re on our way back. We were crawling, then standing up and slowly walking. Maybe soon we’ll be running.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM ICSC Preview Chanel’s Revamped San Francisco Unit Opens

By Joanna Ramey The interior of the new store. SAN FRANCISCO — Chanel Inc. has reopened its boutique here after a major refurbish- ment that transformed the narrow, three-floor building’s interior and exterior. This was the first redo of Chanel’s 7,900-square-foot store since it opened in 1988 as the first luxury fashion boutique to locate on Maiden Lane, a two-block gated pe- destrian street off Union Square where Marc Jacobs, Hermès, Prada and Tory Burch are now located. The renovation took eight months, requiring the boutique to move to a temporary location next door. Chanel Inc. Fashion Division president Barbara Cirkva said the company flirted with the idea of moving to another San Francisco location, but found no other spot like Maiden Lane. “There’s something charming about Maiden Lane,” Cirkva said, sitting in the sec- ond-floor ready-to-wear salon. “The street is like a hot restaurant that doesn’t put its name on the door.” Peter Marino redesigned the once-cramped quarters, transforming it into a light- filled open space appointed in Coco Chanel references, like a first-of-its-kind costume jewelry display wall that evokes the designer’s Chinese Coromandel Screens in her Rue Cambon apartment. “We wanted the store to feel more residential,” Marino said. Accessories, handbags, watches and makeup are on the first floor. A staircase framed by a glass wall, which rises from the ground floor and lets light through, takes customers up to rtw and footwear. The space is furnished with a beige, black-and- white Chanel-like tweed sofa paired with pink slipper chairs. The carpet is beige and white in a subtle tweed pattern in silk and wool. The third floor is reserved for private gatherings and offices. In contrast to its gentile Maiden Lane main entrance, the store has a back-door opening onto busy Geary Boulevard, across the street from Neiman Marcus and steps from other luxury retailers across from Union Square, including Gucci, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton and Salvatore Ferragamo. Peter Marino in Billy Getty with As for business in the Bay Area, Cirkva said the company is looking to add a sec- a Christian Dior wife Vanessa ond boutique in the region outside of San Francisco if the right space is found. She jacket with Denise Getty, in Chanel, said a defining characteristic of Chanel sales in the Bay Area is the popularity of rtw Hale in Ralph Rucci. and Peter Getty. relative to other parts of California. Chanel is sold in northern California only at the altizer drew by photos Maiden Lane boutique, and at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco and Palo Alto, 30 “I first met Peter with Valentino at a party 25 years ago in Rome,” said Hale as minutes south in Silicon Valley. Marino greeted her with a whoop and a bump and grind. The reopening was marked by a party that drew almost every Chanel fan in the “I first met Peter when he was still wearing coral cashmere,” piped in Pamela area, including Jennifer Newsom, Samantha Traina, Katie Traina, Billy and Vanessa Babey, observing the vignette. Getty, Peter Getty, Maria Manetti Farrow, Juliet de Baubigny, Tatiana Sorokko and Danielle Steel made an appearance in support of her daughter Sam Traina, one Maggie Rizer. Denise Hale discovered her friend Marino, in his usual leather getup. of the evening’s hosts. “I’ve just completed my latest book, my 110th,” said Steel. “It’s (“The jacket’s by Christian Dior,” he said.) about an embezzlement. Based on my life? Maybe.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 15 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Victoria’s Secret Retakes Manhattan

By Karyn Monget and Taylor Harris THE SOUR ECONOMY WAS SWEETENED BRIEFLY ON THURSDAY when the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show returned to New York after a four-year hiatus. The $5.6 billion specialty retailer served up all of the hoopla it For could muster at the 69th Regiment Armory, where 35 models, includ- more, ing host Heidi Klum and fi ve Victoria’s Secret Angels — Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes, Marisa Miller, Miranda Kerr and Behati see Prinsloo — showed off sexy little nothings for holiday gift giving. WWD.com. Miller wore the star piece that will be sold in the Victoria’s Secret catalogue for Christmas: a $3 million Harlequin Fantasy Bra designed by Damiani featuring more than 2,300 brilliant-cut white, champagne and cognac-colored diamonds totaling nearly 150 carats. The-over-the-top opulence of the event, which had an estimated budget in excess of $10 million, featured two shows, each staged before an audience of 1,034 guests with runway performances by the Black Eyed Peas. The event will be shown on Dec. 1 at 10 p.m. on CBS. Also included on the catwalk were the two fi nalists of the Victoria’s Secret Model Search, Kylie Bisutti and Jamie Lee Darley, who won out against several thousand competitors in an online poll on vsallaccess.com. The voting will continue throughout the airing of the TV show until about 75 percent has aired, and the winning contestant will be slid into the footage, said a spokeswoman. This being Victoria’s Secret, nothing about the event was under- stated. The runway show featured fi ve vignettes — Star Trooper, All Aboard, Pink Planet, Enchanted Forest and Romantic Journey — replete with a laser light show with fl utter- ing butterfl ies, a train, dancers, balloons, feather wings, Calder-inspired plastic accessories, fl oating fake birds — and a choir. A recurring trend for Christmas was anything that had shine, from se- quins and ciré affects to Swarovski crystals in a rainbow of colors. Several celebrities were spotted among the turnout, including Russell Simmons, Richard Bramson and Harvey Weinstein, and stylist The $3 Patricia Fields. million Asked when he thinks a woman is at diamond- her sexiest, Simmons replied, “In lingerie. encrusted Lingerie’s a good choice.” But he added, “My bra. girlfriend is a Sports Illustrated girl. She wears just boxer shorts.” As for what it’s like to have been a Victoria’s Secret Angel since 1995, Klum, who also hosts “Project Runway,” said it’s less “nerve-racking” to do a Victoria’s Secret show than the TV series. “It’s less nerve-racking because of the way Victoria’s Secret does it,” said Klum, who only made one brief appearance on the runway because she did, after all, have her fourth child just fi ve weeks ago. “When I do my top model show, it’s outside in front of thousands of people so it’s more nerve-racking. But when I kind of do the [VS] wraparounds backstage and have a Teleprompter, and if I mess it up, I can do it again and again and again. Then I’m not that nervous.” Discussing the show’s history, Sharen Jester Turney, president and chief executive offi cer of Victoria’s Secret, said, “First of all, we take a long time to plan it, and I think we’re the fi rst ones in the lingerie arena to actually do a fashion show. When it started back in 1995, it was in a very small venue, and this is one of the fi rst fashion shows to be broadcast on national television, as well as worldwide.” Regarding the outlook for the holiday season, Turney said, “I think the show will lift people’s spirits, as well as business, especially with all of the people who watch the show on TV and the international reach [90 countries] that Victoria’s Secret has. We are prepared and have taken a lot of incentives. I believe we’ll have a good holiday.”

A Calder- inspired look from Star Trooper.

An “I Dream Pink of Jeannie” Planet style from featured the Romantic MITRA ROBERT playful Journey looks. vignette. PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, monday, november 23, 2009 WWD.COM Accessories Report For a Pair of Gucci Brothers, It’s To Be G By Luisa Zargani year decided to launch their own brand. “There’s a solid experience behind the FLORENCE — There’s no sign of the famous fam- project and a structure to support it and we ily name in the label two Gucci brothers are have a specific idea of what the product should launching for spring. look like,” said Guccio Gucci. With To Be G, a handbag collection by Singling out a lily pattern from an original Guccio and Alessandro Gucci, great-grandsons Liberty print as one of the defining leitmotifs for of Guccio Gucci, who founded the Gucci brand the bags, the flower is reinterpreted in different in 1921, the brothers are set on carving out ways: crocheted with interwoven leather strips, their own niche, while avoiding any trademark laser-cut or colorfully printed for a more casual infringement. look. There are also a number of “grandmother “We are not doing this because our name is bags,” as Guccio Gucci likes to call them — small Gucci, nor do we want to try and replicate what and structured crocodile bags with a retro feel. the Gucci brand is doing,” said Guccio Gucci Embroideries inspired by Spanish matador jack- during a tour of his Scandicci, Tuscany, manu- ets were also on his desk — no doubt a reference facturing plant. “We have our own vision.” to the country from which his companion, Nuria Their passion for leather goods and the ac- Rincon, hails. Rincon also works on the bags, cessories business runs deep and in this sense while Alessandro Gucci is more focused on mar- they are Guccis to the core. Guccio Gucci, who keting and communication. designs the To Be G brand, spent 12 years at Handbags retail at 550 to 900 euros, or $821 Bags by To Be G. Gucci, where he coordinated development of to $1,343. Crocodile totes retail at 3,000 to 6,000 product and research of hides, until the com- euros, or $4,479 and $8,958. pany was sold to Investcorp in 1989. After working in the textile industry for almost a The company projects revenues of about 700,000 euros, or $1.04 million, in the decade, he went on to help his father, Giorgio, on the GiorgioG handbags line. first year and expects To Be G to be carried in 30 to 40 points of sale, including Luisa “You never forget your first love,” said Guccio Gucci, who bears a resemblance to Via Roma in Florence, HK Seibu in Hong Kong, No One in Moscow and Eickhoff in his grandfather, Aldo, and his cousin, Maurizio. Düsseldorf. In 2005, the designer founded Esperienze Srl, based in Scandicci, outside Florence, While realizing the economy is tough for the launch of the brand, Guccio Gucci one of Italy’s main leather goods manufacturing hubs. The company, with sales of said he was confident To Be G will cater to those customers who are questioning about 1.8 million euros, or $2.6 million at current exchange, has been producing for what is in the stores today, looking for “timeless, quality products at the right price. a number of international designers and fashion houses, but the Gucci brothers last Consumers are less futile now and don’t just throw money away.” Perrin Paris 1893 Opens in Beverly Hills Tacori Gets Color-Coded By Rachel Brown runs from $250 to $1,200. By Marcy Medina Like the leather goods, the Perrin Paris 1893 store, LOS ANGELES — Perrin Paris 1893 is harkening back designed with interior designer Chahan Minassian, is LOS ANGELES — Tacori to Fifties-era retailing in the look and feel of its new more minimalist chic than opulent. An array of tex- is making the rainbow Beverly Hills flagship. tures, from Nubuck leather wall connection. The 1,200-square-foot store is paneling and Tiger maple fur- The Glendale, the 116-year-old French glovemak- Gloves on display at niture to linen draping in beige Calif.-based fine jew- er’s first retail outpost since it re- Perrin’s new boutique. and tan tones, provide the retail elry company best launched five years ago as a multi- backdrop. Additional elements known for its bridal category leather accessories brand. include a vintage Murano glass line is expanding into Michel Perrin, chairman and chandelier and a glove display the colored gemstone chief executive officer of the com- sculpted by Laguna Beach, market for spring with pany his great-grandfather began, Calif.-based artist Gerard Basil the 18k925 line, launch- said he hopes Perrin Paris 1893’s Stripling inspired by Alberto ing in 30 doors nation- shop, which opened last month at Giacometti pieces. wide next month. 346 North Beverly Drive, can cater Sally Perrin, creative direc- The family-run company, to a fresh demand for investment tor of Perrin Paris 1893 and founded by Haig Tacorian in merchandise that’s deemed luxury Michel’s wife, said Beverly 1985, began with platinum and dia- by virtue of its fine materials and Drive was chosen instead of mond engagement rings and wed- craftsmanship. Rodeo Drive for the store be- ding bands, and added a fine jew- “It is not a label per se; it is a cause it’s “where people actu- elry fashion line four years ago. brand, and there is a big differ- ally shop versus take pictures.” In 2007, it launched Tacori IV, a ence,” said Perrin of Perrin Paris She compared it to a Fifties line of platinum-clad sterling 1893, a family-owned business boutique in which she said silver and cubic zirconium that previously had a store in San “women would really take the pieces sold exclusively on Francisco damaged by that city’s time and come in to shop and QVC. devastating 1906 earthquake. “A be fitted for a beautiful pair of The 18k925 line, named A bracelet lot of women who are shopping at gloves and, of course, a bag to for the 18k yellow and rose and earrings Hermès, Bottega Veneta, Gucci or match.” gold and sterling silver used from Tacori’s Prada, they want to get back to the “We want it to be a leisurely, in it, aims to capture the attain- 18k925 collection. basics. They are used to quality and comfortable experience,” she able luxury market with a 100-piece sophistication, but they don’t want said. collection priced from $350 for a ster- to spend $6,000 anymore on a bag. Michel Perrin expects the ling chain link bracelet to $3,000 for a gemstone pendant

So I think there is a very captive Keenan Stefanie photo by store to generate at least $1 mil- necklace with diamond accents. Most pieces feature fac- market for us in this town.” lion in first-year retail sales and eted colored stones such as rose amethyst, red onyx, cit- Bags range from $299 for the best-selling Martha said Perrin Paris 1893 could add a store a year over the rine and lemon, smoky and cognac quartz. style, a collaboration between Martha Stewart and next five years. Reminiscent of the Fifties, perhaps the All four collections feature the trademarked Tacori Perrin Paris 1893, to $5,465, and gloves from $165 for last decade when women committed their glove sizes crescent shape and the company’s contemporary heir- the Spider pair worn by Drew Barrymore at the pre- to memory, shoppers will be able to get their glove loom aesthetic. miere of the film “Whip It” to $650. Perrin Paris 1893 measurements taken at the Perrin Paris 1893 location “We realize there are customers who are not shopping partnered with French brand Histoire de Voir on sun- in Beverly Hills and likely each subsequent store. The for wedding rings and that the opportunity in this catego- glasses, with leather-covered temples that are $298, brand is sold in roughly 20 doors, including Bergdorf ry is huge because it’s a larger marketplace,” said Paul and with Paris-based Karin Ohana on jewelry that Goodman, Fred Segal and Harvey Nichols. Tacorian, Haig’s son and senior vice president of sales and merchandising. “Our initial goal is for 18k925 to be- come a $100 million business. Not in the next 12 months, but eventually.” BCBGeneration Adds Jewelry to Lifestyle Offerings In order to differentiate the line in the market, Haig Tacorian and lead designer Garo Karounian created By Caroline Tell creative strategies and marketing for the line’s appar- details such as intricate metalwork visible beneath the el and accessories. center stone on cocktail rings and combinations such a BCBG Max Azria Group is launching jewelry under “We’ve been having a lot of fun creating a brand clear quartz over turquoise or mother-of-pearl doublets, its youth-focused BCBGeneration label, in a licensed that inspires creativity and individuality for our cus- giving the stones a different color when viewed from the partnership with Trebbianno LLC. tomer,” said Azria. “Our main goal for BCBGeneration side or above. Hitting stores next fall, BCBGeneration jewelry is is to provide the ingredients for each girl to create her “We needed to give women a reason to buy by creat- designed to complement the brand’s assortment of ap- own unique style, which is why this new jewelry col- ing a distinct look,” Haig said. “Bridal will always be the parel, handbags and footwear. The collection will com- lection represents such an important addition to our core of the company, but the possibilities are endless prise earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces ranging brand.” with fashion jewelry.” in at retail from $28 to $100. BCBGeneration jewelry is expected to retail at Tacori will roll out two 18k925 collections a year that The jewelry line will be overseen by Joyce Azria, similar channels as the apparel, such as Macy’s, will retail at Michael C. Fina in Manhattan and Solomon who last June joined the family business as creative Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and The Brothers Fine Jewelry in Atlanta, among others, and director of BCBGeneration. Azria oversees the design, Bay, as well as at top specialty boutiques nationwide. eventually plans to introduce a men’s line.

18 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Retail Shares Slip 0.1% for Week Weekly Stocks 52-Week volume Amt 52-Week volume Amt Retailers mixed better-than-expected High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change third-quarter profits and cautious holiday outlooks last week, prompting investors to stand pat and hope 42.31 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 167.1 19814870 39.73 -0.95 1.59 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 26.4 833492 1.30 -0.05 inventory and expense discipline will be sufficient to 17.69 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 32.8 2625903 16.47 -0.20 19.74 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 7713705 17.73 -0.75 boost earnings in the fourth quarter. 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 210408 0.55 -0.02 48.92 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 12.1 1154189 41.74 -0.88 The S&P Retail Index notched down 0.1 percent, 44.85 12.52 Aeropostale (ARO) 11.9 15584167 31.91 -2.17 12.13 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 140764 9.44 0.20 or 0.27 points, on Friday, to 400.55, a 1.2 percent de- 29.63 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 23.3 3556769 28.01 0.24 20.90 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 33870756 12.40 -0.05 cline for the week. The Dow Jones Industrial Average 6.97 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 314.0 1955955 3.08 0.08 60.89 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 18.5 18113558 53.96 -1.56 slumped 0.1 percent, or 14.28 points, Friday to close at 19.86 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 23.9 31394622 14.62 -1.24 13.49 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) - 479020 8.74 0.11 10,318.16, a 0.5 percent rise for the week. 17.50 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 18524041 13.62 0.64 15.09 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 20.3 2535 14.44 0.64 Two of the strongest retail gains for the week came 430.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 30.4 5034992 423.00 10.00 19.99 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 58.9 22768591 17.25 -0.84 from The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. and Dillard’s Inc., a rare burst of optimism from the world of regional depart- 36.36 14.40 Avon (AVP) 25.4 18838499 34.03 -1.07 7.88 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 17874257 4.66 -0.49 ment stores, which has been seen as competitively 9.50 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 42.7 3317255 5.66 -0.05 3.98 0.43 LJ Intl. (JADE) - 833236 3.22 -0.06 pressured for some time. Bon-Ton’s stock rose 20 per- 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 22.4 2189022 44.05 0.91 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 23.8 3536200 72.23 -0.49 cent last week, when the firm reported that third-quar- 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 9.1 1481782 6.41 -0.39 28.86 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 56.2 2172799 26.46 -0.66 ter losses narrowed to $4.2 million as customer traffic 0.80 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 69418 0.65 0.10 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 24.0 16877013 16.57 -0.34 increased. And Dillard’s advanced 18.7 percent as it 40.77 27.26 BJs (BJ) 15.3 7908611 34.88 -1.66 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 18.6 5969766 71.66 -3.54 returned to the black in the third quarter with net in- 0.24 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 24588 0.03 -0.01 35.60 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 12.5 10370518 30.02 -2.48 come of $8 million. 2.39 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 21947 2.22 -0.05 20.84 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 55460868 17.11 -0.90 Of 171 issues monitored by WWD, 54 were up for 12.97 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 1896348 13.07 2.18 17.00 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 11.4 375192 15.42 0.01 the week, 114 were down and three were unchanged. — Evan Clark 12.33 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 1322887 11.04 0.39 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 11.8 75337943 380.20 7.90 39.09 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 11.4 3464666 28.07 -1.09 27.67 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 18.7 3265008 21.18 -1.53 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 8013721 6.11 -0.19 15.56 4.65 Movado (MOV) - 447195 10.49 0.01 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 10832559 568.50 -30.00 22.80 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 15.7 5197146 19.51 0.04 Zumiez Net Shrinks in 3rd Qtr. 17.73 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 10.4 3852338 12.85 -0.13 6.11 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2115533 4.41 0.60 By Matthew Lynch 5.88 1.41 Caché (CACH) - 236922 4.30 -0.46 0.41 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 635432 0.16 -0.06 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 45.4 12622243 30.91 -0.89 66.35 38.24 Nike (NKE) 20.9 12179306 63.92 -0.50 Shares of Zumiez Inc. advanced almost 10 29.49 13.86 Carter (CRI) 14.4 4685075 21.84 -0.89 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 6699 0.07 0.00 percent Friday, a day after the teen retailer reported 3.78 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 1387916 2.55 -0.19 36.52 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 22.2 20376801 33.95 -0.04 a lower-than-expected decline in third-quarter earn- 23.17 11.35 Cato (CATO) 16.7 630469 20.38 -0.33 22.98 6.40 Orchids Paper (TIS) 10.4 81847 19.03 0.88 ings but issued fourth-quarter guidance that was less than Wall Street anticipated. 11.17 1.92 CBL (CBL) 195.0 10752435 9.56 0.15 24.36 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 448653 21.56 -0.90 For the three months ended Oct. 31, the Everett, Wash.- 5.50 2.05 CCA (CAW) 18.2 107193 4.19 -0.06 7.25 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 33815581 3.60 -1.19 based boardsports specialist said net income fell 25.6 per- 1.25 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 1067705 1.28 0.42 3.34 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 96813 2.27 -0.05 cent to $5.1 million, or 17 cents a diluted share, from $6.8 5.84 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 5107383 4.84 -0.05 9.13 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 2598782 7.36 -0.54 million, or 23 cents a share, last year. Sales in the quarter 72.93 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 15.3 930206 66.44 0.66 19.30 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 789897 14.07 0.48 increased 0.8 percent, to $113.2 million from $112.2 mil- 24.43 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 13.8 335383 19.13 -0.12 44.85 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 33.1 4883493 43.08 1.51 lion, but declined 8 percent on a comparable-store basis. 15.43 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) 243.3 34901842 14.27 1.38 0.98 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 49906 0.35 -0.03 On average, analysts polled by Yahoo Finance ex- 37.68 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 12.8 4733982 33.58 -1.11 83.50 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 19.6 6274123 78.57 -2.27 pected earnings per share of 15 cents on revenues of 9.02 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 680068 6.12 0.05 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 27.1 1739865 81.12 -2.18 $112.1 million. 30.85 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 21.3 4543019 27.96 -0.86 21.50 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 13.4 347630 19.40 -0.20 Gross margin increased to 35.4 percent of sales, from 35 percent a year ago, but operating margin 31.47 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 23.1 663231 27.31 -0.58 3.83 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 6018159 1.94 -0.06 dropped to 7.4 percent of sales from 9.3 percent as sell- 37.10 11.41 Coach (COH) 17.7 31528251 33.79 -1.77 9.20 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 12.0 194387 8.94 0.10 ing, general and administrative expenses expanded 9.9 9.20 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 8264359 5.06 -0.84 11.97 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 17.8 973816 9.09 -0.31 percent, to $31.7 million, or 28 percent of sales. SG&A 87.39 54.51 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 20.6 27449876 83.97 2.48 47.13 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 344.5 6967516 32.80 -1.39 represented 25.7 percent of sales in the 2008 quarter. 21.85 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) - 4517772 20.12 -0.14 7.43 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 454817 6.51 -0.16 “Our results are particularly encouraging given that 46.35 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 21.3 595439 38.45 -0.93 17.79 2.30 Revlon (REV) 18.6 4336730 17.22 2.06 overall traffic and spending patterns continued to be 61.25 38.17 Costco (COST) 24.5 14476230 60.06 -0.41 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 50.4 14192951 32.04 0.06 volatile and the difficult macroeconomic environment 8.20 0.88 Crocs (CROX) - 11442109 5.45 -0.19 50.50 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 16.4 11901630 43.81 -2.20 continues,” said Rick Brooks, chief executive officer. 0.20 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 13360 0.16 0.01 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 6939604 0.52 -0.02 The firm said it expects EPS of between 18 cents and 22 cents and a comps decline in the mid- to high- 100.54 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 14.0 1866107 95.72 -1.35 7.45 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 37520125 6.71 0.45 single-digit range in its fourth quarter. Before Zumiez 2.88 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 3.5 1416844 1.97 -0.01 8.49 2.66 Sally Beauty (SBH) 15.0 4321796 7.36 -0.11 initiated guidance, analysts had expected the firm’s 11.49 2.72 Delta Apparel (DLA) 11.2 13648 10.97 0.22 79.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) - 11192062 72.64 -1.90 fourth-quarter EPS to total 25 cents on average. 23.74 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 136608 20.20 0.43 76.05 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 53.2 19235126 72.56 0.27 Shares of Zumiez closed up $1.09, or 9.8 percent, 10.66 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 23181479 9.80 0.01 25.30 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 164.5 2881736 22.62 -1.13 at $12.21 on Friday, the first trading session after its 15.72 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 9331833 15.66 2.47 0.90 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 14771 0.47 -0.13 earning announcement. 21.61 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 18.5 11602076 21.68 2.95 14.85 3.52 Stage Stores (SSI) - 1000257 12.11 0.29 For the three quarters, Zumiez’s profits dove to 22.43 6.66 DSW (DSW) 43.7 1368437 20.26 -0.53 13.75 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 1768925 11.24 1.44 $329,000, or 1 cent a share, including a 3 cent charge 19.14 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 104.9 30509 15.01 -1.60 45.48 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.7 1251937 37.80 -0.10 related to a lawsuit settlement, from $10.9 million, or 15.20 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 66.9 1339050 14.78 0.85 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) 3.7 410505 47.90 -2.35 37 cents a share, a year ago. Sales fell 2.8 percent to $275.2 million from $283.2 million a year ago. 49.09 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 30.5 11480424 47.86 1.23 10.80 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 97058 7.46 0.74 35.00 21.79 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.6 14850496 30.38 0.75 12.00 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 6234549 6.64 -0.99 11.72 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) - 2232852 9.49 -0.27 4.61 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 45070 3.24 -0.06 32.84 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 18.6 2652152 31.88 -0.18 3.86 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 13.0 28916 3.47 0.04 WEEKLY 2.54 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 106940 1.19 -0.02 41.78 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 26.0 2397444 39.42 -0.01 WWD 14.85 8.22 Freds (FRED) 19.9 1714153 10.29 -0.47 51.77 25.00 Target (TGT) 16.7 62277281 47.46 -1.53 CHANGE 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 1111537 38.75 1.50 38.63 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 4911233 33.79 0.19 ENDING 23.36 9.41 Gap (GPS) 16.4 46238337 21.95 -0.47 6.35 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 7138 4.55 -1.15 ( Nov. 20 ) INDEX % 29.69 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 26.4 1933672 28.15 0.98 43.80 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 32.7 9744091 41.30 -0.94 19.81 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 962141 17.97 -0.13 18.05 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 20.5 2117414 17.22 0.71 Gainers Change Composite 22.10 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 29.9 1896842 18.25 -0.27 40.64 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 15.7 28633833 38.80 -0.18 Charles & Colvard 48.84 976.14 4.55 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 2421411 2.94 -0.05 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 17.6 239240 48.97 -1.03 Bon-Ton 20.02 27.53 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 276916 21.53 0.45 28.90 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 10.1 4011382 18.26 -1.95 Dillard’s 18.73 41.34 10.26 Guess (GES) 16.8 4776535 36.50 -2.65 10.16 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 7421919 10.19 1.46 Birks & Mayors 18.18 52.31 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 12.8 6360780 41.31 -0.83 33.31 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 34.8 2514839 27.31 -0.52 5.55 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 18330 3.00 -0.50 4.85 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 563380 2.85 -0.14 Tween Brands 16.72 26.61 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 32.8 5750258 24.49 -1.36 31.11 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 11706916 29.77 -0.48 437.30 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 22.5 12771037 415.60 -20.40 34.67 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 30.1 13664134 32.18 -1.77 Decliners Change 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 35.2 249152 94.01 -3.82 79.79 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 16.0 4499612 72.46 -2.02 NexCen -26.19 18.90 1.40 HSN (HSNI) - 1819776 18.64 1.28 19.74 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 41.2 681469 16.05 -0.62 Pacific Sunwear -24.84 13.87 5.09 Hot Topic (HOTT) 20.7 15761626 5.90 -0.66 59.23 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.8 78408103 54.28 1.08 Sport-Haley -21.67 21.28 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) 10.1 7430516 19.41 -0.21 45.75 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 28.7 2359681 42.43 0.30 Tefron -20.18 18.30 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 10.5 3081532 11.76 -0.11 23.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 35.6 7568961 18.84 -0.49 -4.65 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:SM) 21.2 8793176 41.48 -1.47 4.60 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 17.4 7590650 3.02 -0.42 Hampshire -14.29 13.48 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 16.0 289391 11.42 -0.53 34.70 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 22.6 72332 23.17 0.69 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 28.31 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 18.6 1431187 26.40 -0.22 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 44.29 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 58.7 6586734 40.55 -2.54 10.02 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 2122517 4.34 -0.39 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch 37.21 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 25.1 33141153 29.43 -1.78 17.43 4.80 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 39.7 5380005 12.21 0.44 Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 8.00 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 0 6.20 0.00 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2009 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Need Legal Representation in New York? •Extensive experience handling contract disputes in the garment and fashion industries •Debt Collection; Judgment Enforcement •Contract Drafting and Review Ariel Berschadsky, Esq. 110 Wall Street, 11th Floor New York, N.Y. 10005 (212) 372-3322 [email protected] www.berschadsky.com

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces

COMMERCIAL

REAL ESTATE P.D. COORDINATOR ...... 45-50K Coordinate/follow up Samples, Prices, Etc Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 [email protected] ALL TERRITORIES OPEN Designer label women’s contempo collex seeks exp road reps w/ strong PRODUCTION ASSTS following & organization. Top comm. Fast-Growing Apparel mfgr needs (2) w/ guaranteed shipping. Great opp! Showrooms & Lofts Prod Assts w/ 1 year exp. Duties DESIGNER - FASHION JEWELRY Mail to: [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS include communicating with overseas Industry leader in designer "Look of Fine" and trend costume jewelry seeks a Great ’New’ Office Space Avail factories, daily follow-up, track smpls ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 & all aspects of production. Email talented, entry level designer (0 to 3 yrs. exp.), to help us keep pace with our resumes to: [email protected] rapidly expanding business opportunities. Candidates need strong hand DESIGNER WANTED drawing skills and a working knowledge of current trends. Some fashion and / The hottest company on Madison Ave- PRODUCTION MGR, WOVENS Resp. include: Assist the VP; Manag- or fine jewelry background would be helpful. Work out of our midtown nue. Looking for a fresh innovative de- showroom. Salary commensurate with experience. Send resumes to : signer that is very comfortable with il- ing the entire spectrum of prod mgmt lustrator and photo shop. Intimates ex- from product dev through prod ship- Spacious, airy showroom on 39th &7th ping; International and internal com- [email protected] or fax: HRdesign at (212) 683-8072. Ave, heart of the garment district. perience a major plus. Email: [email protected] munication daily Submissions of 4000 sq ft, entire 14th floor. Frt. & pass Graphics and Production samples; elevator access. Avail now to sublease. Communicate with all Departments Call 714-799-6333 FASHION BAG DESIGNER regarding licensing issues and oppor- ALEXIS BITTAR Creative, trend, and detail oriented. tunities. Qualifications: Bachelor’s SALES EXECUTIVE Able to spec with or without original degree; Strong organizational skills, LUXURY BRAND sample. Salary $45 + benefits. Send re- Minimum 5 years experience in luxury Exp’d salesperson needed w/ strong clientelle creativity, and the ability to multi- specialty store business, must be stra- sume to: [email protected] task; Excellent follow-thru skills, for Helen Yarmak boutique in The Plaza. tegic and growth oriented, must be Resume to [email protected] attention to accuracy and detail is a willing to travel, have experience in FIRST PATTERNMAKER must. Email: jobs567@ gmail.com merchandising, comfortable with cold Established Junior company seeking calling, self sufficient. Must be profi- full time experienced & detail oriented Spec Tech $50-$60K cient in Microsoft Office Suite (Word, patternmaker with strength in Prodn Coord/Devel $40-$45K Excel, PowerPoint), QuickBooks Ac- Subscribe bottoms for both woven & knits. Must Better Runway Designer counting. email: [email protected] be fluent in English. Fax: 212-736-3496 [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email: [email protected] Opening NYC corp showrm. Seeks exp today! sales prof of contemporary designer Subscribe womens having established contacts w/majors, chains & buying offices to run NY showrm. Ur passionate, have exc today! comm skills & can SELL! Top Pay - Great opp! Email to: [email protected] Call 800.289.0273

Call 800.289.0273 for individual

for individual subscriptions or SALES PRO subscriptions, Leading Asian textile supplier is inter- ested in a highly motivated person for email sales position for existing and new or email business - the future could be very [email protected] bright! Excellent Benefits. Email your [email protected] resume at [email protected] ring out the year infashion’s mm oo ss tt el bitmmoo mmoosstt most irresistibleiirrrreessiisst ible wrap-up

YEAR IN FASHION SECTION II IN PRINT & ONLINE: December 14 SPACE CLOSE: November 30

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson.