The Inside: Pg. 12 H&M NET SOARS 43%/3 JUNIORS’ SPRING HITS/8 Caught WWD in the Web WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • March 27, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 62 $2.00 List Sportswear Going in Style NEW YORK — The golden age of the jet set may have come and gone, but it still lives on in fashion. That’s especially true at the moment, when movies and books are rediscovering the iconic look of the Sixties and Seventies stewardess. And the junior market offers many an option for young wannabes seeking new heights. Here, a cotton and Lycra spandex corduroy jacket from Lix Jeans with a polyester and rayon satin skirt by Spacegirlz; bag by Kiki Pearl; shoes from Marc by Marc Jacobs. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

CRIOUT What Price Luxury? Brands Go High, Low To Spur Tough Market

By Miles Socha PARIS — If the designer fashion business were a game show, it would definitely be “The Price is Right.” That’s because many of today’s biggest players have been fiddling with their tags, with some introducing accessibly priced items for so-called “aspirational” customers and others raising the bar with exclusive, hyper-expensive baubles. All the changes are stirring sharp debate among retailers, manufacturers and industry consultants at a time when no one See Luxe, Page5 PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT MITRA AT WESTCHESTER COUNTY AIRPORT; MODEL: TAYLOR WARREN/NEW YORK MODELS; STYLED ROXANNE BY ROBINSON-ES MODEL: TAYLOR WESTCHESTER COUNTY MITRA AT AIRPORT; PHOTOGRAPHED ROBERT BY 2 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL Fashion has taken inspiration from the high-flying world of flight attendants ™ 6 — and vice versa. Here are some looks and a mini-history on the subject. Many of today’s biggest fashion houses have been fiddling with price tags, A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 but it’s stirring a sharp debate in the luxury market. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated The WWDList: Designers ranked by the number of page views received 12 during the first two weeks their collections were posted online at Style.com.

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, KEEPING IT CASUAL Helped by reduced losses in the U.S., net profits at Swedish behemoth The new rules for dressing in today’s corporate climate 3 Hennes & Mauritz vaulted 43.1 percent to $118.7 million in the first quarter. EYE: Zandra Rhodes gets set to open her British museum, and parties from Once in a while an acquired privilege finds itself they don’t want to look too comfortable. They 4 Los Angeles to Miami, plus Madonna’s big shoot. curtailed by those in a position of authority. That’s want to look confident and professional, not Classified Advertisements ...... 13-15 not the case with corporate casual dressing. Far frumpy.” Because of this, Gilmore often walks a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is from the days where dot-com millionaires fashion tightrope. This spring, for [email protected], using the individual's name. strolled into office spaces wearing wind- instance, she offers denim dresses and SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. breakers and sneakers, today, a growing suits as well as cotton/linen blended All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; number of employees are choosing to pantsuits (displayed with white T-shirt outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. spruce up their usual work wardrobes in shells) in bright, sherbet colors. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. an attempt to appear more professional. Part of Gilmore’s job also consists in a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. However, that does not mean they are bringing back the sheep that may have WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. willing to give up the comfort of corpo- wandered from the flock. “People here No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be rate casual dress that they’ve grown to love are confused by business casual. Is it jeans expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. – instead, they are reinterpreting it to fit a or a pantsuit? Khakis and a sweater? I Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 new economy and an altered world. convince them they don’t have to do stan- Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of According to findings by the Cotton dard business casual anymore. They can WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. ™ Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor , the trend dress up and still look feminine.” For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com toward dressier casual apparel has had an Although many women may be happy impact on consumers’ attitudes “Casual dressing in the workplace to cast aside the über-casual about what is acceptable to is nowhere near dead, look of the dot-com era, how wear on casual days. But will but it is evolving.” formal they choose to dress is In Brief American offices be seeing a often a function of their age. Ira Livingston LUCKY SHOES: Vernon, Calif.-based Lucky Brand Dunagarees – Cotton Incorporated return to power suits and Jennifer Kasper, marketing is stepping into footwear. The line of denim-driven activewear pantyhose any time soon? Not manager, Federated Merchan- has inked a licensing deal with South River, N.J.-based quite. In fact, according to the Monitor, only 36.4% dising Group women’s ready-to-wear brands, sees a Steinweis Jacobson LLC to produce women’s and men’s of women feel people have begun dressing too casu- difference between younger shoppers and those footwear. Lucky Brand footwear will hit department and special- ty stores for the back-to-school season, featuring five men’s and ally on casual days (down from 42.4% a year ago). who are more established in their careers. six women’s athletic-looking styles in leathers and suedes. The So while dressing up is on the rise, it is not neces- While the latter group is reverting to conserva- looks will also be carried at Lucky’s stores and Web site, lucky- sarily in response to a workplace gone casually over- tive looks from the company’s Alfani line, brandjeans.com. Retail price points will range from $60 to $100. board. Linda DeFranco, creative trend forecaster the former may never have experienced a formal HARRODS NIXES CHICAGO PLANS: Chicago, apparently, is for Cotton Incorporated, sees women in the work- work environment—and never wants to. “INC. not Harrods’ kind of town. The London department store has all force as having more options than men in terms of [Federated’s line of sportswear aimed at women in but scrapped plans to open a unit in the Windy City — what what’s acceptable to wear. “There haven’t been very their twenties and thirties] is becoming more laid would have been its first in the U.S., a company spokesman said. back,” she explains. “This customer’s work He said Harrods’ owner, Mohamed Al Fayed, failed to see eye-to- many guidelines in terms of what’s appropriate to eye with developers for Chicago’s historic State Street shopping wear to work,” she points out, leaving women the wardrobe is probably not suits five times a week. area. Al Fayed had wanted to take on a larger role in the devel- freedom to dress in almost anything from slacks to She’ll buy a denim jacket over gabardine,” says opment — in the form of a proposed hotel and real estate proj- sundresses—something they quite appreciate. Kasper. “Denim is blowing out of the stores.” Also ect — but was offered a “fairly modest retail proposal,” in the end, the spokesman said. “Further involvement in the project As DeFranco points out, women also dress up for at the top of her shopping list: “great black pants” looks exceptionally unlikely,” he added. “The developer seemed occasions outside of work citing the popularity of that she can wear with a variety of tops. “This unaware of the fundamental brand value associated with clothing that does double duty from going to the customer has an expectation that her wardrobe is Harrods, and this was reflected in [the proposal].” office to going out at night. “In the summer you go going to be versatile.” ITALY ON MADISON: The Italian Trade Commission plans to out more so you’ll wear something a little dressier to In fact, 86.5% of women still find casual days kick off an 11-day promotional program with retailers on upper work.” A simple way to make an impact without appropriate in American workplaces, according Madison Avenue in Manhattan tonight. The ITC has set a ribbon- sacrificing comfort: what DeFranco coins the “one to the Monitor. cutting ceremony on Madison between East 65th and 66th dressy item plus one casual item” rule of thumb. Asserts Ira Livingston, Cotton Incorporated Streets to mark the program’s beginning. Called “Passport to Italy,” it gives consumers a chance to win Italian prizes, from For Brooks Brothers, the senior vice president, con- trips to fashion accessories. Passports for the program are avail- secret to casual success lies in Have People Begun Dressing sumer marketing, “Casual able at 32 participating retailers and in the March 17 issue of beautifully tailored, quality Too Casually On Casual Days? dressing in the workplace is New York magazine. The promotion is to end April 6. casual clothes with crossover nowhere near dead, but it is 01Q3 02Q3 Difference MO’ MONEY: Bluefly Inc. has renewed and expanded its se- appeal. “We’ve developed a Yes 42.4% 36.4% -6 pts. evolving.” What it does cured revolving credit facility with Rosenthal & Rosenthal Inc., couple of ‘lifestyle’ pieces No 56.8% 61.7% +4.9 pts. lack, according to Liv- an independent financial services and factoring firm. Its avail- that are dressed up for work ingston, is a sense of self. able financing has been increased to roughly $4 million from $2.5 “This is a great opportunity for retailers, and million. The deal was secured by Bluefly’s inventory and a letter but can also be worn on weekends,” explains Lisa of credit from an affiliate of Soros Private Equity Partners. The Flynn, senior director of the women’s division for department stores in particular,” he says, “to rede- credit facility entitles Bluefly to certain credit accommodations, the company. She cites Brooks Brothers’ stretch fine corporate casual and become ‘the source’—the including the right to obtain loans, factor-to-factor guarantees pant as an example: “Women can wear it with a experts on casual dressing.” and letters of credit issued in favor of Bluefly’s suppliers. blazer, a T-shirt, a sweater set – it covers a broad And with so many definitions of business casual spectrum of functions.” The same goes for the spe- emerging, the field is wide open for those savvy few WWDStock Market Index for March 26 cialty retailer’s non-iron shirts, a “phenomenal” who know how to play the game. success, bolstered in part by feminine details as well Composite: 102.24 Broadline Stores: 103.68 Softline Stores: 97.27 as pretty colors. This story is one in a series of articles based on findings Balancing professionalism with style and com- from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ fort is a tactful endeavor indeed. Just ask Mil- tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the -0.06 0.16 -0.55 waukee-based designer and shop owner, Heidi American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes Gilmore. An F.I.T. grad specializing in dressy Vendors: 100.77 Textiles: 90.12 and behavior regarding clothing, sportswear cut from Italian fabrics, Gilmore appre- Index base of 100 is appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ciates the art of striking this delicate balance. keyed to closing prices many other timely, relevant subjects. ® of Dec. 31, 2002. “Women here are very interested in comfort, but -0.58 -8.35 3 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 LAZAR/LADN/WIREIMAGE JOHN BY PHOTO BRODY “The key thing is we believe “This was perceived as a bit of bit a as perceived was “This Ericksen characterized Amer- “The American operations are Ericksen also acknowledged “These will be serviced by Asked about March sales and gunning is it said company The were shot in New York several weeks were shot in New York the ago. In addition to appearing in ads, Brody will make appearances behalf and be outfitted on Zegna’s He in Zegna for other major events. wore Zegna to the Oscars. Zegna is a very intellectual brand…with a lot of meaning. Adrien is such a serious actor and his role in ‘The Pianist’ was so amazing. It moved all of us,” said Lipman. February February due to weath- cold lingering and storms a series of er in the Northeast. Pressed by analysts for specifics, losses he in said the U.S. about narrowed to $10.8 million from million in $14.1 the quarter, and that markdown levels were reduced versus a year ago. The company set a breakeven target U.S. market for the full year. for the a disappointment because H&M by breakeven already had in the some fourth reported quarter of 2002,” noted and retail fashion analyst Sagra Maceira de Rosen London. at “We believe J.P. breakeven Morgan for the full year is achievable.” in ica as an market, important with two new expansion units bow- ing this month in the Washington area alone and an additional nine planned for the second quarter. on the “Overall, right we are track,” not verypointed he with the situation. It’s still disap- said. an improvement over last year.” that H&M’s foray into four new markets this year Czech — Republic, Poland, Portugal operating in result would — Italy and losses of about $10.8 million to $21.6 million, but ments would that not be as invest- heavy as in the U.S. losses and swelled Spain, to where $64.8 million in 2001. as much as neighboring markets,” he setup.” full a making not said. are “We whether there was any indication related effect” so-called“CNN a of to the Iraqi Ericksen war, replied: “It’s a short period so far, but we have not found anything yet that we could call a war effect.” for like-for-like sales growth of 3 to 5 percent in 2003, and that added favorable currency fluctua- tions would allow prices by about it 2 to 3 percent. to lower Adrien at Sunday’s Oscars. Brody will . But Adrien , a fellow Zegna hit David Jodie Kidd Following in the Steven Klein Tarquin Southwell Tarquin Fast-fashion continues Fast-fashion , chairman of Lipman, won the Oscar for Best Actor Helped by reduced losses in And the Swedish firm said quarter the in profits Operating “Our performance remains of ahead well were results The any seeing not clearly “They’re Ericksen acknowledged that JODIE KIDD TO POLO: father and brother, footsteps of her polo who are both professional model players, British in the Polo represent England Championships in World Women’s Although she has only been July. playing for five years, the English team clearly pegged her as a winner. team Kidd will play on a four-woman no at the tournament in Ascot, and doubt be cheered on by her boyfriend, polo player whom she met while stables. mucking out at her brother’s PRIME OF ADRIEN BRODY: the jackpot this week when Brody for his role in “The Pianist.” Brody wear is featured in the men’s spring ad campaign, company’s along with other actors, and has signed a six-month contract to fall appear exclusively in Zegna’s campaign, shot by Zegna isn’t capitalizing on Brody’s winning the gold statue: Lipman said the fall ads ad agency, Zegna’s Fashion Scoops Fashion By Miles Socha — PARIS to race ahead. the U.S., net profits at behemoth Swedish Hennes vaulted 43.1 percent to $118.7 mil- & Mauritz lion, or 14 cents a share, first quarter in ended Feb. the 28. This 10 or million, $82.9 with compares cents a share, a year ago. that Wednesday its international expansion would continue at a brisk pace, with about 110 stores slated to bow in 2003, 47 of them At in the the end second quarter. of the H&M first operat- quarter, ed 849 stores in 14 countries. increased 41.5 percent to year- the in $119.4 from up million, $168.4 per- 12 advanced Sales period. ago cent to $1.37 billion, up from $1.22 billion a year ago. Dollar krona Swedish figures from converted are at current exchange. strong,” H&M chief officer Rolf Ericksen executive said during a conference call, that emphasizing improved full-price per- selling 54.4 to margins gross boosted cent of sales from 52.9 percent in the year-ago quarter. He attrib- uted the gains to “higher fashion sharper inventoryaccuracy,” lev- els and improved delivery flows. market expectations, but lower- than-expected sales growth February in of 10 percent the stock, which fell dented 4 percent in trading Wednesday to $19.45 on the Stockholm Bourse. like-for-like sales February,” noted growth Tony Shiret, analyst in at Credit Boston in London. But overall, he Suisse First said the “fabulous” figures in the quarter reflect a big improvement in margins and suggest continue. should growth pendous” its “stu- the U.S. market remains a chal- in hit a took sales that and lenge, Trimmed U.S. Losses U.S. Trimmed Net H&M Boost Help The agriculture agreement is As reported, Saks Inc. and J.C. Lacy said that it was likely some The ceo also emphasized that Although such a move frees a Retailers including Target Robert Passikoff, president “Whether the economy is Passikoff noted that one are too wide and agricultural negotiators will most likely miss the deadline, which could delay negotiations in other sectors and push back the ambitious Jan. 1, 2005 deadline for drop- ping all quotas on textiles and apparel. Trade diplomats from the 145-member body have been deadlocked for months over how to liberalize agriculture trade. seen by many as the key to a wider round of trade negotia- tions, which would include much anticipated talks on tariff reductions for industrial prod- ucts, including apparel and tex- tiles. Large agricultural export- ing countries like Australia, the U.S. and China claim the current proposal on agriculture does not go far enough, while importers like the European Union and Japan claim it cuts too deep. Penney Penney are among the retailers that have divested themselves of their credit card portfolios. With an eye toward increasing its fi- nancial flexibility, Saks last year sold the majority of its private label credit card accounts and balances to Household Inter- national for $1.4 billion. aspect of credit operations “would be retained by Sears.…An ele- ment of our expense [is] going to the support of the credit business” and the company would similarly provide for that going forward. the profitability of the sale will generate free cash flow above the current dividend requirement, now at 92 cents a share. “We are not capital or cash-flow con- strained,” he pointed out, adding that the decision to review opera- tions was unaffected by the re- cent one-time charge in connec- tion with the credit card business. retailer to focus on retailing and removes some of the risk that comes with credit operations, par- ticularly in a tough it economy, also deprives retailers of some- thing of a fiscal umbrella in the event of poor store-related results. and Kohl’s continue to run their own credit card businesses. their However, operations are a much smaller part of total oper- ations compared with those of Sears, financial sources noted. of Brand Keys, a consumer re- search firm, observed that while proprietary credit card opera- tions can be a big business, re- tailers really need to separate the credit business from the re- tail side of operations. good or bad, proprietary credit cards are the ones that get paid last. When times are tough, it is the minimum payments on the Visa, MasterCard and American Express cards that get paid first. This was what happened to Spiegel where the chargeoffs put them in the tank,” he said. problem for retailers who own their own operations is the risk of not providing for enough re- serves to cover the chargeoffs. ” He said the EU must move Johnson said: “The deadline is Many critics claim the gaps In last year’s final op- quarter, Jeffrey Hornstein, managing “The strength of the business He told analysts that while The ceo said that lately, be big obstacles to reaching an agreement on key points such as tariff reductions on agricul- tural products and export sub- sidy reductions. forward this summer on its re- forms to sever the link between production and subsidies, which he claimed is essential to moving the WTO negotiations ahead. The Japanese, he claimed, need to show more of a commitment to liberalization and market access. Japan fiercely protects agricul- tural products such as rice with astronomical tariffs, although it relies heavily on food imports. a few short days away and we have a long way to go. A number of are not members, ready frankly, to move forward or can’t move for- ward to meet the obligations.” third-party providers to run the business” who can provide both “economies of scale and a high level of customer service.” erating income in Sears’ retail unit rose 9.7 percent to $662 mil- lion as sales, plumped up by the acquisition of Lands’ End, ad- vanced 2.8 percent to $9.73 bil- lion. Operating income on the credit side fell 14.8 percent, to $363 million, on revenues that rose 4.4 percent to $1.39 billion during the 13-week period. An up- ward adjustment in Sears’ credit reserves and related charges dur- ing the quarter had led to the first major crisis of Lacy’s tenure, which began in December 2000. director at Peter J. Solomon Inc., said that the divestiture of the credit operations “makes sense because the financial markets had never known whether to value Sears as a financial compa- ny or as a retailer. Sears felt un- dervalued in the market and the company is probably correct. By unlocking the value of the credit card business, Sears can get Wall Street to focus on the retail oper- ation. They are making what is considered a smart move.” billion in its Gold MasterCard receivables. The business gener- ated more than $1.5 billion of comparable operating income and is on track to deliv- last year, said. Lacy year, er on plan this and broad customer base create strategic value to a number of noted. potential buyers,” the ceo credit is an integral part of its business, “owning the business is not critical.” there’s been shift in the number of retail credit providers, unlike years ago when Sears entered the business. most “Today, re- tailers have a relationship with — Jeffrey Hornstein, Peter J. Solomon Inc. Solomon J. Peter Hornstein, Jeffrey — The chief agri- Sears, Roebuck &

By unlocking the value of the credit card credit the of value the unlocking By Allen Johnson, chief agricul- WTO agricultural negotiators Lacy said that Sears’ Credit Reports circulated Wednesday Reports In a conference call with Wall Shares catapulted $2.69, or Sears said it was “evaluating “ business, Sears can get Wall Street to focus to Street Wall get can Sears business, making are They operation. retail the on move. smart a considered is what tural negotiator for the Office of the U.S Trade Representative, acknowledged it is a “difficult time,” but said the U.S. is con- tinuing to push hard for results. Johnson said the European Union and Japan are proving to are engaged in their last sched- uled session of global agricul- tural reform talks this week, at- tempting to forge a blueprint ahead of a March 31 deadline. By Kristi Ellis Kristi By WASHINGTON — cultural negotiator for the U.S. said Wednesday that World Trade Organization members must overcome significant obsta- cles before the 145 nations can reach an agreement on agricul- ture, which is crucial for the suc- cess of the broader negotiations. U.S.-WTO Nearing AgriculturalDeadlineNearing U.S.-WTO and Financial and ProductsFinancial business manages the eighth largest cred- it card portfolio in the U.S., with $30.8 billion in card receivables at the end of 2002 and 25 million active accounts. The business also includes the largest nation’s in-house proprietary card port- folio with $18.4 billion in its blue Sears Card receivables and $12.4 that a sale of the entire credit card operation could fetch be- tween $6 billion and $7 billion. a Lacy, veteran of Sears’ credit operations, declined comment, except to say that the retailer “expected to receive an appro- priate premium” over book value for the business. He added that one option being explored is the sale of just the MasterCard unit. Sears Gold Street analysts, chair- Alan Lacy, man and chief executive officer, said, “The market has had diffi- culty in properly valuating Sears’ unique combination of as- sets. A sale would allow us to un- lock the tremendous value and earnings power of these assets.” ing Wednesday. Volume was near- Volume ing Wednesday. ly seven times its daily average. 12.5 percent, to close at $24.14 in New Stock York Exchange trad- strategic alternatives” so it can focus on its profitable core re- tail and related services busi- ness. The company expects to fi- nalize a transaction during the second half of fiscal 2003. By Vicki M. Young M. Vicki By NEW YORK — Co.’s decision to put its credit card operations on the block res- onated with investors Wednesday, but is certain to turn up the heat on the firm to make its somewhat tarnished retail operations shine once again. Sears’ Moves Shift Focus to Stores to Focus Shift Moves Sears’ 4 Rhodes Zandra Rhodes Scholar LONDON — Zandra Rhodes may look Blaine perky with her flaming pink mane, Trump WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, matching lipstick and coordinating eye® caftan, but her reality is far from rosy. “It’s sucking the life blood out of me,” says Rhodes of her latest project, the Fashion & Textile Museum slated to open here in May. I want it to be a place “where fashion doesn’t feel so precious. ” — Zandra Rhodes The Carolina says. In addition to the Rhodes archive, the Herreras Jr. “I should be spending my time doing things museum boasts 10 Clark and 30 Muir garments. and Sr. like traveling to Paris, chatting with Karl,” she Gity Monsef, the museum’s creative director, is says, the tiny seashells in her hair tinkling as she planning a Rhodes retrospective “at some point,” talks in the sunny top floor of her south London and hopes to do a Halston exhibition. headquarters, with its rainbow-striped floor and The museum was designed by Mexican Frequent Fliers caftan-clad mannequins. “Instead, I’m trying to architect Ricardo Legorreta, and is his first “Well trophy season is finally over, that we get this project off the ground.” project in Europe. Rhodes, who spends her time can be grateful for,” said Tom Hanks, as he Rhodes has only herself to blame for this project, between London and San Diego, discovered him and wife, Rita Wilson, arrived to co-host which started after some existential ponderings. “I during one of her regular trips to California. “I Saks Fifth Avenue’s benefit dinner for realized that so many famous British designers — love his use of color and his wonderful, simple Cedars-Sinai cancer research, which raised like Ossie Clark and Jean Muir — were dying on us, shapes,” she says. “He also happens to be $1.5 million. But the duo’s co-host, Jennifer and that there should be some permanent record of incredibly charming.” Garner, was stuck on the “Alias” set. “Well, British fashion. Fashion is something the whole The entrance, known as the Grand Pink Foyer, she is the hardest woman in show business Stella world is interested in,” says the designer, now 63. lives up to its name. It has a swirly mosaic floor Stella — I mean, the hardest-working,” quipped Seven years and $4 million later, Rhodes is made by the Australian terrazzo artist David McCartney Hanks to Scott Foley, Garner’s husband. preparing to open the museum, a 5,000-square- Humphries and the design is based on one of Event chairs Kate Capshaw and Jamie foot space attached to her headquarters and Rhodes’ wiggle motifs. The electric blue Fashion Tisch greeted guests Lisa Kudrow, Nia workshop that will accomodate exhibitions, Archway leads to the split-level Grand Gallery, Vardalos, Jeffrey Katzenberg and honoree educational programs and the odd cocktail party. which is spare, with custard-colored walls and Stella McCartney, who lost her mother, “I want it to be a place where fashion doesn’t feel industrial lighting. Meanwhile, the building’s Linda, to cancer in 1998. “It’s a rude awak- so precious or rarefied,” says Rhodes, “where exterior is bright orange, adding a jolt to ening, suddenly having to look after your- people can understand the contribution that fashion Bermondsey Street, a narrow cobblestone road self,” said McCartney. “The one positive makes to the culture and character of society.” straight out of a Charles Dickens novel. thing that came out of this is that I learned For the first exhibition, “My Favourite Dress,” The museum will put on three shows a year, how to do that.” McCartney, who brought Rhodes asked 70 fashion designers, including and there are no plans for a permanent along her fiancé, Alasdhair Willis, looked tan Valentino, Giorgio Armani, John Galliano, Oscar de la exhibition, as Rhodes believes it isn’t good for and radiant after almost a week out West. Renta, Donna Karan and Thierry Mugler, to choose a clothing to be on permanent display. Her team, Also on the West Coast last week, favorite dress from any of their own collections, and however, is working on a digital fashion and Graeme Black showed San Francisco describe the reasons behind the choice. Rhodes textile archive where students will be able to ladies like Tatiana Sorokko and Alison herself chose a 1974 dress in Pernod green. “It was a access the museum’s designs. The museum will Spear his latest Salvatore Ferragamo col- dress that I know for a fact Jackie Kennedy shared also have a library and lecture room, and has lection, then hit the cable cars. with her sister,” says Rhodes with a giggle. already begun children’s educational programs. Meanwhile, in Miami, Carolina Herrera Although 3,000 original Rhodes garments along “I started work on it in 1997 when no one was and her daughter Carolina Jr. welcomed with her sketch books and silk screens are now really paying attention to my designs,” Rhodes says such guests as Pauline Pitt, Emilia Fanjul part of the museum’s permanent collection, the with a sigh. “Little did I know, my work would take Pfeifler, Melanie Charlton and Kate designer took a communal approach to the first off again, and I’d be so busy. Like life, it’s either Gubelmann, to the opening of her first CH show, “because I didn’t want the museum to be feast or famine.” Carolina Herrera store in the U.S. Herrera M GIBBONS M thought of as an homage to Zandra Rhodes,” she — Samantha Conti brought a touch of elegance to a town be- sieged by college students on spring break. And Blaine Trump, for one, couldn’t Rita Wilson have been happier to escape South Beach inin StellaStella for the evening. “Try doing yoga with McCartney. house music blasting all around,” she said.

A video still from “X-STaTIC PRO=CeSS,” a collaboration between Steven Klein and Madonna.

SHOOTING STARS: Some stars just show up on the set. Not Madonna, who spent months e-mailing Steven Klein in planning a shoot for W, WWD’s sister publication. Their strange and wonderful collaboration, depicting Madonna al- ternately contorted and done up as a New Age empress in her baroque best, led to a 44-page portfolio in the April issue. “I found Madonna to be everything people think she’s not,” said Klein, who has other projects with Madonna in the works. “She’s very intuitive about her work.” Still, Madonna is always controversial, and the disquieting images she and Klein created stirred up plenty. “The provocation comes from my pictures and who she is naturally, without any effort,” said Klein. Tatiana Jamie Tisch And the duo’s collaboration goes on. Tonight “X-STaTIC PRO=CeSS” opens at Deitch Projects on Wooster Street Sorokko in Emanuel and includes three video works and two photographic animations that grew from the one-day shoot to be shown in- Sorokko in Emanuel side organic architectural structures created by New York architectural firm LOT/EK. and Ungaro and Although Madonna played Fellini music while on set, remixed sounds from her new album, which comes out Graeme Lisa Rinna April 22, will accompany the exhibit. Black inin Tuleh.Tuleh. MADONNA VIDEO: STEVEN KLEIN; RHODES: EDWARD HILL; SAKS PARTY: DONATO SARDELLA; HERRERA PARTY: ROBERT CLARK; FERRAGAMO PARTY: TO PARTY: FERRAGAMO CLARK; ROBERT PARTY: SARDELLA;HERRERA DONATO PARTY: SAKS HILL; EDWARD RHODES: KLEIN; STEVEN VIDEO: MADONNA 5 Luxe Firms Play Price is Right THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MARCH Continued from page one wants to confound already skittish consumers with Gucci crocodile bag sticker shock — or cheapen brands at a delicate time for luxury. The sector’s already trying situation has been made even more delicate by the war in Iraq, which has further eaten into global travel and caused many consumers to rein in their spending on any- thing but essentials. Nonetheless, who would be the first contestant in fashion’s new game show? Tom Ford, come on down! You might accuse the dashing Gucci Group creative director of a tendency to overbid — and you would be right. He took the Gucci brand into new price stratos- pheres last fall by introducing made-to-order hand- bags that run from $1,900 up to about $16,000. The move was the wrong answer for the company at the time, and analysts even suggest the strategy dented Gucci’s leather goods sales. Yet Ford defended the move up the price list. “We had planned something strategically, which I still believe was the right thing for the long-term value of the Gucci brand,” the designer argued. “But maybe given what’s happening in the short term, it was ill- timed. We were starting to lose the top-of-the-pyra- mid customer at Gucci and…we did something very calculated: We went back in with custom-made shoes, custom-made bags, things with more expensive skins, more expensive detailing, and we really lifted the price point of the collection.” Gucci Group chief executive Domenico De Sole agreed. “Maintaining and growing this image is clear- ly the correct long-term strategy for our brand,” he said. “Unfortunately, we moved in this direction pre- cisely when consumers’ disposable income and anxi- ety led them to cut back and focus on more economi- cal and entry-level-priced products.” Not that high prices are necessarily a bad thing. High-end retailers interviewed during the latest round of collections said price is rarely a deterrent for luxury basket,” or the average amount spent by consumers increasing the size of their consumer base,” he customers — as long as the product is right. “Customers in a single visit, also rose last year. He noted that cus- explained. “But when there is an economic recovery, only get upset with us if we don’t have the right fash- tomers even have the option of ordering handbags these companies will see a downgrade of their brand ion,” said Ron Frasch, chairman and chief executive from its couture atelier. positioning. I think it is very negative.” officer of Bergdorf Goodman. “It has to have Still, he defended the advent of opening-price items Even in Japan, battered by a decade-long reces- innovation and distinctiveness.” as crucial to attract and engage young customers who sion, companies including Hermès, Bulgari and But complicating the picture for want a piece of its brand. “We’re preparing them to Louis Vuitton continue to raise prices. Yves Carcelle, American retailers buying fall collections buy the real thing,” he said with a chuckle. “Hermès chief executive of Louis Vuitton, noted that in Japan, is the weak dollar versus the euro, which does it. Vuitton does it. The lower-price products Louis Vuitton items priced over $500 sell better than threatens to make European goods much don’t contribute a lot to the total business. It’s those priced less. “We believe the strategy of lowering more expensive. “Next season is not the for aspirational customers, to bring them into prices in a crisis is the wrong solution,” he said. time to see increases of 20 percent,” said the store and to convert the customers to the But Chiara Tirloni, an analyst with UBS Warburg, Anne Stordahl, senior vice president brand.” But Toledano stressed that even cited Tiffany as one example of a brand that has man- and general merchandise manager at affordably priced items for the young set aged to offer a vast price range of items without losing Neiman Marcus, referring to roughly must have all the “quality and details” its luster. “Tiffany demonstrates that a low price point how much value the dollar has lost over of more expensive items. doesn’t necessarily mean losing luxury status,” the past six months. “We’ve been push- Rita Clifton, chairman of Tirloni said. “It’s all in the execution. These brands ing [suppliers] strongly [so] that we Interbrand Corp., said fattening have many stores all over the world. They have to don’t see increases. If a customer the offer at either the top or adopt product strategies that keep attracting cus- doesn’t see the apparent reason why the bottom of the price tier tomers, increasing store traffic and generating sales.” [the price] went up, there’s no moti- is not necessarily a haz- And Majed Al-Sabah, owner of the luxury empori- vation to buy. People are not in the ardous policy. For um Villa Moda in Kuwait, said he spies great poten- mood for exorbitant and superfluous example, she said, tial for selling low-ticket items — key chains, cell- prices.” Giorgio Armani does a phone straps and the like — even if many brands Stordahl stressed that she does- “very good” job in resist for fear of diminishing their snob appeal. His n’t advocate cuts across the board, subtly signaling to enthusiasm hasn’t been diminished by the war in but added with a grin, “I’ve never Dior toile ‘Saddle’ bag customers that Iraq; Al-Sabah all along has insisted that the war, in seen a customer complain if we Emporio Armani and the end, will only be good for business because it will give them true value.” Armani Jeans are “a ease the region’s political uncertainty. He already has But how low can luxury go in different type of plans to open another Villa Moda in Kuwait and even terms of price, before it starts to Armani” from the top talks of opening one in Baghdad one day. cheapen the brand image? line, but still positioned “I think they [brands] are underestimating the cat- To be sure, many luxury bou- at the upper end of the egory. My customers, they buy items like that in bulk,” tiques have some surprisingly sector in which they com- he said. “One of the exceptions is Dior. To me, they affordable items woven into the pete. Likewise, affordable are absolutely clever because they diversified [their mix. Yes, Hermès has a crocodile products at Dior are targeted at a price range].” handbag that retails for more than “younger, racier” customer who is Andrea Ciccoli, vice president of Milan-based con- $100,000 at its Paris flagship, but still spending more for a like product sultancy Bain & Co., warned that fashion houses that there are also $37 coin dishes and at Dior than she would elsewhere. produce cheaper versions of hit items may devalue fruit-shaped key rings for $75. Of course, everything has its limits. their integrity. However, he allowed that accessible Likewise, Christian Dior has $175 “If people are hearing more about your items like T-shirts can work if they are fun, fashion- versions of its famous “Saddle” hand- brand from the bottom end rather than the able and grab the customer’s attention. bag and $55 silver earrings. Several top end, that’s a recipe for taking a brand “It’s the impulse buy that is responding best in this luxury analysts noted the recent prolif- downstairs,” Clifton warned. market,” he said. “What the customer needs is fresh, eration of affordable logo items at such Ironically, could companies that energized their exciting things, but not necessarily at high prices.” stores as Fendi, Gucci and Prada. brands by reversing the freewheeling licensing of He believes the key is being innovative and fashion- Some luxury executives are defensive about the yore be heading down that same path themselves? able with cheaper products, but staying “consistent charge that they have gone downmarket with demo- Bergdorf ’s Frasch called it a “huge mistake” for a with the brand image.” cratic prices. “Prada has never used the approach of luxury brand to sell and produce logo bags and other De Sole agreed that consistency is the golden rule offering lower-priced products to reach more cus- low-cost items. “Most [luxury houses] have to do it, when it comes to pricing, recalling that during the tomers,” a company spokesman said. “Even the high because they’ve opened up so many stores around the Asian crisis in the late Nineties, the decision to hold tech nylon items have been introduced and treated as world, and you have to sell something,” he conceded. firm on prices served the company well. luxury items.” “But I think at some point it will catch up to them. We And even if the United States is in a prolonged Christian Dior is probably the most democratic won’t be buying those entry-level price points.” economic downturn and a war, he noted, “I don’t purveyor of luxury, given its recent emphasis on Armando Branchini, vice president of consulting think simply cutting prices is going to fix it. Tom feels “J’Adore Dior” T-shirts, which retail for about $145, firm InterCorporate in Milan, agreed that fashion very, very strongly that we have to have the highest and low-cost accessories like denim pocket squares companies trying to generate as much revenue as quality. It’s not just an issue of pricing. At the end of and wrist cuffs. But Dior president Sidney Toledano possible in tough times may ultimately pay the price the day, we want to offer a very good value.” noted that the average price of a Dior handbag actu- in terms of their image. “In the last 10 years, these —With contributions from ally went up in 2002, to $600, and that the “average companies have made their growth strategy out of Amanda Kaiser, Milan 6

NEW YORK — In Hollywood’s latest high-flying satire, “View From the Top,” Gwyneth Paltrow, a leading Hollywood fashion maven, idealizes the life of the flight attendant. She gets her start on a low- rent commuter shuttle and works her way up to the international first-class routes, the pinnacle of success in the rarefied world of flight service. Her uniform reflects her career, which starts at skintight, breast-baring outfits then moves on to an ultrachic, fitted wool suit with Prada-type shoes. Spielberg’s “Catch Me if You Can” similarly fetishized stewardess’ frocks. Oh, right, flight attendants. Call them what you like, the name, just like their image, has changed radically over the years. The commercial aviation industry developed out of the U.S. Air Force, and the image of the cabin attendants followed suit. The original eight “Airline Hostesses” who worked for Boeing Air

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, Transport in the Thirties, a forerunner of United Airlines, were all nurses and were outfitted in Florence Nightingale-esque capes. But the airline industry didn’t find a fully articulated style until the Sixties when Mary Wells, the first woman to run her own ad agency, was hired by Braniff Airways head Harding Lawrence (he eventually be- came her husband). She commissioned designer Alexander Girard to update the terminals and Emilio Pucci to design the uniforms. Together, they created an Op-Art fantasy world replete with all the saccharin col- ors of the rainbow. And Wells was none too subtle about making the con- nection between flight and sex. Stewardesses were outfitted in brightly colored Pucci designs and their strict physical requirements (weight, height, age and even marital status were dictated in those days) made CComeome FFlyly WWithith MMee

From left: Esprit’s polyester suit and rayon top. Roxy Quiksilver hat. Hot Kiss’ polyester jacket and skirt; Esprit’s polyester top.

sure that tired businessmen had some pretty eye candy for their flights. Pucci designed Braniff ’s uniforms for the next nine years and created six distinctive styles. The most famous were advertised as the Braniff “Air Strip.” The outfit consisted of several layered com- ponents that were removed (or in some cases, added to) during the flight. The stewardess greeted passengers in a reversible wool coat accessorized with a pillbox hat and Pucci print scarf. By flight’s end, the stewardesses had stripped down to their tunics and culottes. Braniff may have been the leader in flight design, but soon other airlines were outfitting their stewardesses in fashion-forward gear, as well. Over at United, Jean Louis, taking a cue from Norman Norell, designed jumpers to be worn over knit blouses with black accessories and a faux-fur hat. The girls at TWA had a youthful look: V-neck sweater, striped blouses and capes and boots pulled together with a miniskirt. Southwest Airlines went so far as to dress their stews in go- go boots and orange HotPants. Of course, the French were part of this fashion movement, as well. Air France hired Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga in the Sixties. Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant, Valentino, Oleg Cassini and Evan-Picone also designed uniforms. In contrast to Pucci’s bold, exuberant style, Halston’s muted earth- tone palette became Braniff ’s new look in 1977. Perhaps in deference to the weakening economy and the oil crisis, uniforms in this era took on a more somber and minimal mood. And when the airline industry was deregulated in the Eighties, air travel became more and more like bus travel. Airlines went unisex and back to military-inspired uniforms. While TWA went high end by hiring Ralph Lauren, Delta and US Air asked uniform manufacturer Greif to create their outfits. But perhaps glamour and sex appeal will find a place again in the air. Christian Lacroix was recently commissioned to design Air France’s uniforms and British Airways gave Julien Macdonald a call. Also, two books, one a rerelease of the popular Sixties paper- back, “Coffee, Tea or Me,” chronicling the wild adventures of two fictitious stewardesses, and “Come Fly With Us: A Global History of the Airline Hostess,” will hit bookstores shortly. Or maybe the trend will be that of the new Hooters Air, which re- cently took to the skies with Hooters girls working alongside the From left: Juicy Couture Jeans’ cotton jacket and skirt; Rampage’s polyester sweater. Buzz by Jane Fox bag; Marc regular flight attendants. So much for the jet set. by Marc Jacobs shoes; Dickies’ cotton jacket and shorts; Lucy Love cotton halter, Ro bag; Stuart Weitzman boots. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout

ARVES; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT ROXANNE BY STYLED ARVES; SC ECHO HOSIERY; WEST NINE KLEIN, CALVIN CK HUE, CASSEL; MATTHEW ASSISTANT: FASHION CENTENO; TALAYA ASSISTANT: PHOTO MORI; MIKI

SACHA HARFORD FOR ARTMIX; HAIR BY HAIR ARTMIX; FOR HARFORD SACHA 7 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 BY MAKEUP LUTON/CODE; CLOE AND MODELS YORK WARREN/NEW TAYLOR MODELS: AIRPORT; COUNTY WESTCHESTER AT MITRA ROBERT BY PHOTOGRAPHED

From left: From Younique’s Necessary cotton top. top. Built by Kélian boots. bag; Stephane polyester suit; Ro bag; Stuart bag; Ro Quiksilver bag. Wendy’s cotton Wendy’s Objects’ cotton suit; Younique’s Zinc’s polyester suit; Younique’s hat; Kate Spade Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Weitzman boots; Weitzman polyester blouse. Eugenia Kim hat; Eugenia Kim hat; Michelle Deborah and spandex suit; and spandex Younique’s cotton Younique’s Gucci sunglasses. polyester top. Roxy polyester top. Roxy 8 Junior Report Minis, Cargo Pants Key Spring Items

Spring arrived on Friday, and across much of the U.S. and parts of Europe is still dependent on weather and, in places, where it’s still too cool, the weather has matched up with calendar. That has sent junior shoppers shoppers seem to be holding off. Junior customers also are on the out to the stores in droves, looking to add to their spring wardrobes. The lookout for non-denim bottoms — cargo pants and other military-inspired slow economy in the U.S. and Europe has clearly influenced teens’ looks are strong sellers in Europe, despite the ongoing war. In terms of

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, shopping habits — with less money to spend overall, they’re paying closer tops, feminine looks, including camisoles, are strong sellers in many attention to prices, but are still willing to shell out big bucks for the right areas, though there’s been a backlash against that at some spots on the items according to retailers. What are the right items? Miniskirts look to West Coast in the U.S., where teens are returning to grunge looks. be a hot seller, although buyers admitted demand for the ultra-short looks Below, a survey of early buying patterns from five key cities.

Brightly colored T-shirts were strong sellers at Benetton. At Macy’s West white clothing, such as these Rampage looks, has been performing well. Printed T-shirts have sold well at Goody’s Family Clothing.

PARIS — As spring washes over the City of Light, junior shoppers military inspired.” military cuts, skull-and-crossbones prints and ties. Schoolgirl have been hitting the stores, preparing their lightweight wardrobes. Shepherdson also said string vests and cropped utility plaid, arm-warmers and studded belts are also doing well, he Buyers say business has been steady in the segment, but the trousers are other top sellers. said. Neon trims, mesh netting, off-the-shoulder tops and slow economy is having an impact. Junior shoppers are buying At New Look, cargo pants are a bestseller. vintage-screen T-shirts round out the mix. less-expensive items, but more of them, buyers said. “We’ve introduced a ‘best buy’ collection at the store,” said “Basically, it went from Britney Spears to Avril Lavigne,” said “Girls are paying attention to price more than in the past,” Phil Wrigley, managing director of New Look. “It means Zekaria. “The customers knew that the Britney trend died out commented Christine Samain, fashion director at LVMH-owned customers can experiment with different looks at affordable before the retailers. Retailers stayed sexy too long and didn’t go department store The Bon Marché. “There’s resistance to the prices.” into the new grunge.” expensive pieces, but on the whole, business is steady.” Another item that Wrigley said is selling well is a twill jacket Even so, lady-like polkadot dresses and multicolored-striped Over at Galeries Lafayette, fashion director Odile Morvan said strongly influenced by Marc Jacobs, in khaki green. tube tops have been selling, he said. the junior market is “holding up pretty good. Teenagers right now Other bestsellers are black mesh hooded tops, satin halter- Windsor has not experienced a decline in traffic, but are interested in getting a bang for their buck.” neck tops in pink and green and pleated minis. — Sarah Harris business has softened because of the war, according to Zekaria. Morvan said she has noticed teenagers crossing over more “Our prom business has really gotten off to a nice start,” he from traditional junior brands and buying T-shirts and bags from MILAN — At Benetton, color is driving spring-summer sales, said. “There has been absolutely no affect when it comes to luxury brands, such as Christian Dior. according to a company representative, who cited T-shirts in patriotic pastimes like the prom.” — Kristin Young “That’s the biggest market trend in junior at present,” explained canary yellow, pink, red, pale blue and azure as key sellers. Morvan. “Teenage girls will spend for a little luxury if they have a Other key items at the chain include denim miniskirts and ATLANTA — Easy, lightweight T-shirts and cargo cotton bottoms, little extra money from their baby-sitting jobs. On the other hand, jeans in worn-looking washes. The chain is continuing to sell as well as shorts and miniskirts, are among the top sellers at the when they come back into the junior department they look for the low-rise bottoms, but has lengthened its T-shirts. The Atlanta-based Rich’s-Macy’s-Lazarus-Goldsmith’s division of best price. They aren’t loyal to a brand at the junior level.” representative also cited as a strong performer the “jungle line,” Federated Department Stores, according to a spokeswoman. Buyers cited a move toward more feminine looks as strong, as a military look mixed with flashy pink, red and orange prints that Gypsy-inspired looks continue to sell well at the Proffitt’s and well as customized and vintage pieces. Tank tops have also been takes its inspiration from Cambodian culture and computer McRae’s, division of Birmingham, Ala.-based Saks Inc., moving briskly. games. The company’s “leisure collection,” another strong seller, according to Vivian Fox, divisional merchandise manager for the “The miniskirt is a big story for spring,” said Morvan. “But includes sporty cotton jersey looks printed with the names of junior area. Key items for spring include denim and crosshatch it’s yet to take off. We’re still waiting for the really hot weather.” American universities. — Stephanie Epiro twill skirts with asymmetric hemlines at both knee and mini At Printemps, the department store owned by Pinault- lengths, as well as Bohemian halter and tunic tops with prints Printemps-Redoute, Levi’s Type One jeans have been big, along LOS ANGELES — At Macy’s West’s 141 doors, teens are snapping and embroidery. with sports-inspired clothes, such as zipper blousons and up cargo pants, vintage screen T-shirts and dresses in vibrant Vintage-styled print tops, garment washed T-shirts and Seventies looks. prints or polkadots, according to junior fashion director Shawn activewear shorts are also strong sellers from this season’s Galeries’ Morvan pointed out: “Jeans are not as strong as Lambertsen-Forbes. merchandise mix. they were a couple of seasons ago. Chinos and skirts are getting “Anything non-denim is just blowing out for us,” she said. At Knoxville, Tenn.-based Goody’s Family Clothing, current hotter. Jogging-style trousers are also selling well.” Lambertsen-Forbes said girls are pairing cargoes with sexy bestsellers also include vintage screen-print T-shirts featuring “Looks are much more feminine than last spring,” added Bon camisoles, tank tops and tube tops and predicted the look will Fifties-inspired roadside diner and Las Vegas lounge scenes by Marché’s Samain. “White, pink and khaki are the top colors.” have strength through the back-to-school season. White has also Self Esteem and cotton cargo bottoms by L.E.I., said junior “Military is still big,” added Morvan. “But it’s more feminine shown up in Macy’s West shopping bags, including a fair number divisional manager Barbara Mesecke. in color. Baggy cargo pants, for example, are selling in softer of white pants, white T-shirts and miniskirts. “We’re seeing a great deal of movement in printed novelty T- colors, such as pink.” — Robert Murphy “It’s head-to-toe white,” she said, noting a button-front basic shirts, especially the fun, retro-themed destination image tops,” mini with an unfinished hem is among the strongest silhouettes. Mesecke said. LONDON — After a warm weekend where temperatures She said that junior sales have remained “pretty steady,” Other best-selling items this season are textured rip-stop approached 70 degrees, London retailers reported that shopping despite the war. bottoms by BeBop Clothing Inc., bright activewear shorts with has picked up among junior customers. At Windsor, a chain of 35 junior stores based in Los Angeles, exposed, turned-down elastic waistband and stripe “Miniskirts are doing so well for us right now,” said Jane customers have banished feminine and sexy in favor of embellishments in cotton-and-nylon blends by the company’s Shepherdson, Topshop’s brand manager. “In every color and masculine and punk, according to Ike Zekaria, vice president private GFC brand and knit cotton tanks and camisoles by every style, those best tend to be in bright block colors or and general merchandise manager. Among spring trends are Energy. — Jonathan Ashley Osborne 9 WWD, THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MARCH Paris Blues Taps Kraus Back in the USA Denim Dish Paris Blues, one of the brands that reinvented the moderate junior jeans business in the late Nineties, is making a key executive change. Raises for VF Brass Lisa Engelman plans to step down as Citing improved underlying financial performance, VF Corp. president of sales next month, according to the raised the pay of its five top executives, according to the company. Pam Kraus, who was hired as company’s proxy statement recently filed with the Securities and national sales manager in February, will take Exchange Commission. on her duties but not the title. Engelman did Mackey McDonald, chairman and chief executive officer, not respond to phone calls Wednesday. received an 84.2 percent pay hike. McDonald’s total compensation Kraus, a retail veteran, reports to Jose increased to almost $2.8 million, largely as a result of a $1.5 Quant, owner of the Los Angeles-based million bonus that was up from a $530,400 bonus the prior year. company. Like Engelman, she will be based in McDonald’s base salary rose to $990,000 from $960,000 and he was New York. also awarded a $310,800 payout under VF’s long-term incentive “What I bring to the company is not only a program, which paid nothing to the company’s top executives last merchandising and wholesale background, but year. In 2001, McDonald’s pay package came to $1.5 million. I also speak the language of the retailer,” The Ubi jeans line, which has been sold in Europe for the The other four top executives whose pay was detailed in the Kraus said. past three years, is on its way to the U.S. proxy also received raises of more than 60 percent as a result of Kraus spent more than two decades at larger bonuses. Federated Department Stores, including a In an effort to make its distribution to somewhat Terry Lay, vice president and chairman of the company’s lengthy stint as a merchant at Abraham & better reflect its name, Ubiquitous Industries Inc. is outdoor and international jeanswear coalitions, saw his Straus during the Eighties. Most recently, she launching its Ubi jeans line in the the U.S. for summer compensation rise 65 percent to almost $1.2 million. John had served as vice president for the Style & retailing. Schamberger, vice president and chairman of the company’s Co. private label business. With wholesale prices of $150 and up and aggres- North and South America jeanswear coalitions and of the She left Federated in mid-2002 and sive finishes, including heavily wrinkled styles, Ubi playwear coalition, received the same increase and pay worked as a consultant for several months jeans is the brainchild of 32-year-old Ullrich Conrad package as Lay. before joining Paris Blues. Simpson, who has worked as consultant to fashion Robert Shearer, vice president of global processes and chief Given the weak economy and the recent companies including Nike, Tommy Hilfiger and most financial officer, saw his pay package rise 74.8 percent, to slowdown in the jeans business, which recently Pepe Europe. The line sells about 10,000 to $933,300. Eric Wiseman, vice president and chairman of the followed several years of strong growth, Kraus 15,000 pairs of jeans and tops a year in select global intimate apparel coalition, received an increase of 77.8 said her focus would be on invigorating sales. European stores, for revenues of about $1 million. percent, also to $933,300. “Business is tough through the country and How did a super-premium jeans line with a rari- The only top executive to exercise stock options last year was throughout the world and we are certainly fied distribution wind up with such a contradictory Lay, who cashed in 60,000 options for a profit to $928,672. going to take a look at how we can improve moniker? Simpson blames his mother — his father While a $527.3 million write-down due to an accounting change things,” she said. “The jeans business is named him, but she wanted to have some input in caused the Greensboro, N.C.-based company to report a net loss of cyclical. Sometimes when the economy gets what he’d be called. So she nicknamed him Ubi. $154.5 million for the fiscal year ended Jan. 4, on a continuing- tough the customer takes a look at what she The jeans are made in Los Angeles of Japanese and operations basis earnings would have been up 27.1 percent. owns in denim. Denim will never go away, but U.S. denim, and come in a variety of rinses and washes. The proxy statement also included a proposal by a minority the customer now clearly is gravitating Simpson, a New England native, decided to launch shareholder, the Amalgamated Bank LongView Collective towards more updated basic product.” — S.M. them in Europe largely because that’s where he was Investment Fund, which owns 36,769 shares of VF stock, working at the time, but also as a learning experience in representing a stake in the company of less than 1 percent. a new market. The fund proposed that VF change its board procedures so He said he had few worries about launching such a that all directors are up for election each year. Currently high-end collection in the U.S. during an economic only one-third of the board is up for election each year and downturn. individual directors serve for three-year terms. “With the economy, everybody is going super-staid The fund, which made a similar proposal last year, with things, not taking risks,” he said. “But the indi- suggested the change would make the board more vidual that is still going to buy is looking for that responsive to shareholder concerns. VF’s board unique piece.” recommended that shareholders vote against the But he’s not betting the house on jeans that will proposal, contending that staggering directors’ terms carry $300 retail price tags. He’s also launching a allows for better continuity on the board. lower-priced line called UCS Dungaree Co. UCS — Scott Malone jeans includes two styles of jeans, wholesaling for about $40. The jeans and tops in that diffusion group are made in Spain, Portugal and Turkey, and follow the same general design inspiration as the Ubi line. Knitwear He said he decided to target a lower-price tier resource Wayne Rogers Slips Into Jeans because “that’s where a lot of people have gotten a lot Wayne Rogers Wayne Rogers, a 30-year-old line known for fashion of interest largely.” has launched a knit tops, has launched Wayne Rogers Brand X, a denim He aims to sell the Ubi line to select specialty jeans line. line targeting the contemporary customer. stores and plans to distribute UCS in better depart- With first spring deliveries in stores now, the new ment stores and specialty chains. He said he believed division includes around 15 jeans silhouettes and 15 the two lines together could eventually generate sales coordinating pieces, including novelty jackets. of about $10 million. — S.M. The 10-oz. stretch denim, in various washes, comes in blue, indigo and black for fall. Novelty is key, with details such as nailhead studs, embroidery and whipstitching on jeans. Jackets, in bomber, blazer and shirt silhouettes, feature leather insets, layered effects, fake-fur trims, lace-up sleeves, or fuchsia silk linings. Targeting better specialty and major chain stores, the denim line wholesales from $36 to $39 for jeans, and from $69 to $144 for leather-trimmed jackets. “Jeans are a great crossover complement to our knit line,” said Abby Feldman, vice president of the New York-based company. “We knew we could create special effects necessary to make it really special, in light of all the competition today.” Feldman hopes the line’s staying power and strong production capabilities will help the denim line succeed. In January, Wayne Rogers inked a production deal with Luck Concept Ltd., a Hong Kong-based manu- facturer and contractor with three factories in China. The company will expand its silk-spandex blend and leather capabilities, and offer greater exclusivity on yarn production for knits. In the past 12 months, sales grew 30 percent, and profits have improved, due partially to more efficient operations, said Feldman. The company has sales of more than $8 million, and is sold to around 800 accounts nationwide. Feldman is launching a campaign to educate buyers on the heritage of the line. “We want to emphasize that we’re not a here-today- gone-tomorrow player,” she said. Bestselling bookings for fall included a side-studded, low-rise jean, a hook-and-eye jean and a basic Ullrich Conrad Simpson is also launching UCS Dungaree embroidered jean. — Georgia Lee Co., a lower-priced version of his Ubi line. 10 Pro Fitness may Active Lifestyle Report change its uniforms from Working Product Placement Nike to Reebok. NEW YORK — Personal trainers and yoga instructors are network within its sales division to target the 250 groups beginning to look like race car drivers and tennis players: that represent this country’s estimated 300,000 certified fit- Their clothes are like billboards. ness instructors and professional trainers. Under Armour A growing number of athletic labels are “seeding” their expects its new alliance with 24 Hour Fitness to help propel activewear on fitness instructors and personal trainers total annual sales by $100 million, Wood said. with the hope that their students will take note during Everlast Worldwide is now providing boxing equipment their workouts. Some brands give away the merchandise to Crunch Fitness and sponsoring the new “Fight Club”

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, and others offer substantial discounts. boxing class, which culminates with monthly sparing con- “The general population aspires to be like the athletes tests. Former heavyweights Larry Holmes and Gerry they watch on TV,” said Ryan Wood, vice president of sales Cooney were on hand for the first round of finals March 18 for Under Armour. “But there are a lot more people work- at the Kips Bay club. As part of the deal, Everlast is also ing out than playing in the NBA. The sheer volume of peo- selling its merchandise at that location. ple exercising is a great opportunity.” But the athletic brand is also showing off its softer side. Earlier this month, the Baltimore-based company signed To complement its new, airy, three-floor location at 125 a deal with 24 Hour Fitness, a health club chain with more Fourth Street in Manhattan, Stone Spa plans to suit up its than 600 locations, to give their 4,500 personal trainers and 35 staff members in Everlast yogawear beginning in May. certified instructors a 25 percent discount on all purchases. The fresh look is in line with the spa’s earth tone interiors In January, Under Armour set up a Fitness Professional and outdoor garden, said Carla Ciuffo, owner.

The site’s 40 daily visitors will be checking out Everlast pants with drawstring waistbands, T- shirts with three-quarter-length sleeves and jackets in sand, pearl, carob and other soft shades. For the 2002-2003 ski season, Prada added the San Sicario Action School to its list of pro- fessional trainers that it outfits. “The daily activities of ski in- structors, trainers and sailors are important for us to test the prod- ucts,” a Prada spokeswoman said. “This allows Prada to offer athletes and the sports-minded the highest level of durability and quality.” Reebok International is mak- The Apparel & Accessories ing a push to place more product four times a year on “more than Trade Show That Delivers a few hundred” top trainers, fit- ness instructors and nutritionists who work with entertainers and The fastest growing show for the hottest influential trendsetters on both segments of the fashion marketplace. coasts, said Jan Sharkansky, vice Bringing manufacturers and retailers president and general manager of Reebok women’s. together in the heart and soul of the fashion “We’re reaching out beyond industry – New York City. their agents and public relations people,” she said. “Visibility is the key. There are key people who be- The latest trends… broad international lieve in the product and want to exposure… free leading edge seminars… wear the product, and we want extensive press coverage…unparalleled them to be seen in our product.” Reebok is now doing the same amenities… exceptional customer service. with more contemporary classes like pilates, yoga and gyrotonics. Reebok is dressing staffers at dif- ferent locations of The Sports Featuring: Club/L.A., including the New York-based The Reebok Sports ACCESSORIES Club L.A. The brand has renewed its commitment to Reebok Uni- CASUAL LIFESTYLE/BETTER versity, which doles out discounts JUNIOR for apparel to more than 40,000 fitness professionals. STREETWEAR Plus One Fitness, a Manhattan- based operation that offers on- YOUNG CONTEMPORARY/CONTEMPORARY site personal training at 37 corpo- rations and hotels, is talking to Reebok about using its apparel on its trainers and expects to May 4-6, 2003 reach a decision soon, said Michael Masters, director of oper- Jacob Javits Convention Center ations for Plus One. For more New York City than five years, Plus One trainers have worn Nike warmups even though there is no contractual To exhibit call 888.964.5100 agreement with the firm. “Their image has worked for or 917.326.6237 us,” Masters said. “We like the image associated with the brand, but we’re not locked into them.” To attend, register online at The Weekend Exercise Co. has developed a program with www.industry212.com or call Exhale, a mind-body spa on Man- 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792 hattan’s Upper East Side to outfit employees in its new Shiva Shakti collection and to sell the collection in the boutique. Norm Zwail, president and chief executive officer of The Formerly Weekend Exercise Co., said, “One thing I’ve found is that grassroots-type seeding is most effective in reaching customers.” — Rosemary Feitelberg 11 WWD, THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MARCH JOHN LAZAR/LADN/WIREIMAGEJOHN KIM D. JOHNSON/APWIDEWORLD PHOTOS JOHNSON/APWIDEWORLD D. KIM STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE STEVE PHOTOS GLOBE Julia Roberts in Jean Jourban Paris and Renée Zellweger in Carolina Herrera and the Nicole Kidman in Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Diane Lane in Oscar de la Renta and the A.B.S.’s interpretation. A.B.S. version. and the A.B.S. knock-off. A.B.S. version. A.B.S. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO BY PHOTOS A.B.S. Oscars’ Quick-Turn Artists

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller Julia Roberts and the Versace ice-blue beaded frock on final analysis, when there’s war and a tough economy, Jennifer Garner. that’s what people will buy,” she said. LOS ANGELES — Designer Eletra Casadei’s decision not He gave a thumbs down to the Valentino confection Casadei’s samples ship today for the Dallas Fashion to participate in the traditional knock-off wars following donned by Jennifer Lopez and Elie Saab’s glittering one- Market and will be ready for July 30 and Aug. 30 deliver- the Oscars quickly changed as the show unfolded shoulder gown hugging Halle Berry’s frame. ies, she said, mirroring last year’s schedule. Retail price Sunday evening. “No one under 50 is going to wear J. Lo’s dress — it points range from $400 to $800. “When I saw what Renée [Zellweger] and the stars had no attitude…and Halle Berry’s wasn’t stylish or con- Not all designers chose to participate in this year’s were wearing, I called my design team and said, ‘Turn on temporary enough,” said Schwartz, noting that the knock-off race. New York-based designer Victor Costa, your TV sets, the dresses are looking good,’” said gowns on Zellweger and Kidman translate well for the whose re-creations fetch about $500 to $800 at stores, opted Casadei, who in two years has turned her awards re-cre- prom customer. out of the rush, with plans to produce later in the year. ations into a $1 million business. “My two top accounts — Neiman Marcus and Saks — In line with the nation’s subdued mood amid the Iraqi weren’t in a hurry to have these copies this year,” Costa crisis, Casadei originally planned to pass on making her When I saw what Renée said. “The frivolity of doing it just didn’t seem to be the more accessible versions of the dresses this time round. “ proper focus.” She canceled shoots with six television shows, including [Zellweger] and the stars were With the limited television coverage, Costa said, it was “The View” on ABC, who were to film the 48-hour design harder to discern the details of the gowns, but he said his rush come Monday and Tuesday, believing retailers wearing, I called my design team initial picks were the styles worn by Kidman and Lopez. wouldn’t purchase her impulse creations nor would the “Nicole’s dress was beautiful, but you didn’t get to see celebrities wear replica-worthy attire. and said, ‘Turn on your TV sets, the nuance of the draping — the only thing you really But Casadei, like other fashion pundits, was as wrong saw were the straps that were choking her,” he said. as a Jimmy Choo stiletto on a tennis court, and she now the dresses are looking good.’ Other designers said they prefer to wait out the post- has a complete collection on its way to market. ” Oscar production dash. WWW Collections in Los Angeles True, there was the abbreviated red carpet that made — Designer Eletra Casadei will ship designs to such stores as Nordstrom and Lillie glimpsing and photographing the couture gowns a tougher Rubin for holiday when they can earn better returns, proposition. There also was the concern of who would For her part, Casadei chose six looks: Ones worn by according to national sales manager David Bershad. attend the Oscars as a handful of A-listers bowed out of the Kate Hudson (Versace), Susan Sarandon (Donna Karan), “During the warm, summer months people aren’t wear- event. And much of the pre-buzz focused on many celebri- Nicole Kidman (Jean Paul Gaultier), Julianne Moore ing these glamorous looks —they’re more seasonal,” he said. ties rethinking their showy looks in favor of quiet elegance. (Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche), Garner WWW’s niche is reinterpreting the designs into sepa- All in all, though, observers say the looks weren’t dis- (Versace) and Zellweger (Carolina Herrera), but tin- rates. To date, one of his biggest hits was taking appointing. kered with the styles to make them more salable. She Valentino’s chocolate brown and lace gown worn by “I was surprised — I thought it was going to be a down- shortened the bust ruffle on Moore’s strapless YSL Halle Berry at last year’s Golden Globe Awards and er,” said Allen Schwartz, president of Los Angeles-based green dress to slenderize the waist and combined jersey translating it into a ruched black top with beaded lace. A.B.S., who shipped out samples to his New York show- and Lycra spandex to stiffen the three shoulder straps He sees another top coming out of the black-and-white room on Tuesday with plans to hit retail stores in four to on Kidman’s Gaultier black gown. Carolina Herrera gown worn by Selma Hayek. eight weeks. The dresses will retail from $250 to $300. Different color interpretations — for both fiscal and “It’s the type of look that can be worn with jeans and Schwartz chose five designs for his adaptations, wearable reasons — were also part of the selling strategy. heels and looks great for our sportswear oriented cus- including the Jean Jourban Paris vintage gown worn by “For Moore’s dress, we choose black and red — in the tomer,” he said. 12 TheWWDList Needless to say, a fashion magazine’s avid readers are an opinionated, well- informed bunch. The same is true for the audience of Style.com, the Web site of Vogue and W (WWD’s sister publication). Recently, visitors to the site showed their favorite fall ready-to-wear collections by clicking on a designer’s page. To ensure an even playing field, the designers are ranked by the number of page views received during the first two weeks their collections were posted online. Web Winners The list was culled from the top 115 collections on Style.com. CHANEL, Paris MARC BY MARC JACOBS, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, 1,156,941 647,852 Show date: March 10 Show date: Feb. 11 Total page views to date: 1,160,350 Total page views to date: 887,714 1 “I’ll take anything from Chanel,” said Joan Kaner, senior vice 11 The fare at Marc by Marc Jacobs included looks that spanned president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “I thought it was decades, from Sixties to Eighties, with flippy little skirts and perfection. It was Karl [Lagerfeld] doing his best.” patterns galore.

MARC JACOBS, New York BALENCIAGA, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 994,926 647,166 Show date: Feb. 10 Show date: Feb. 13 Total page views to date: 1,459,095 Total page views to date: 1,113,692 2 Jacobs described his fall collection as “a cliché of the future that 12 Retailers were floored by Nicolas Ghesquière's Balenciaga looks like Courrèges, Pierre Cardin and Rudi Gernreich” filled with collection, where his shearling bolero jackets were among the graphic shapes and bold colors. greatest hits.

DOLCE & GABBANA, Milan DKNY, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 974,051 643,990 Show date: March 2 Show date: Feb. 10 Total page views to date: 1,078,148 Total page views to date: 984,246 3 “I always like Dolce & Gabbana,” said Alla Verber, vice president of 13 DKNY included fall classics such as boyish blazers with gray flannel the Mercury Group in Moscow. “They’re like plastic surgeons the miniskirts or pink boule jackets with pencil pants on the one hand and way their clothes fit.” shrunken leather jackets and zipper-embellished pants on the other. GUCCI, Milan LOUIS VUITTON, Paris Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 960,666 616,557 Show date: March 1 Show date: March 10 Total page views to date: 1,121,798 Total page views to date: 616,557* 4 “Tom Ford did an amazing collection at Gucci,” said Kal Ruttenstein, 14 Marc Jacobs explored the Sixties for Louis Vuitton, with Space-Age senior vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s. “The looks and other styles that included bold, graphic furs and minisuits. corsetry was unbelievable. It was one of his best collections to date.” MICHAEL KORS, New York CHRISTIAN DIOR, Paris Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 778,895 604,017 Show date: Feb. 12 Show date: March 6 Total page views to date: 1,094,586 Total page views to date: 737,433 5 “I really loved Michael Kors’ silk slouch trouser. It was a very good 15 Sue Patneaude, vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom, show — a real turn from what he’s normally done,” said Evelyn said John Galliano’s Christian Dior collection was among the best Gorman, owner of Mix in Houston. of the season. The designer showed fitted tops with full skirts. YSL RIVE GAUCHE, Paris CALVIN KLEIN, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 748,243 594,039 Show date: March 10 Show date: Feb. 14 Total page views to date: 749,802 Total page views to date: 1,094,135 6 “The evening wear at Yves Saint Laurent was the cherry on the 16 Klein’s collection — his last effort as chief designer — was cake,” said Majed Al-Sabah, owner of Villa Moda in Kuwait. overshadowed by the sale of his company to Phillips-Van Heusen. Nonetheless, buyers loved the beautiful fabrics and fluid designs. PRADA, Milan DONNA KARAN, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 714,042 580,077 Show date: Feb. 28 Show date: Feb. 14 Total page views to date: 1,039,606 Total page views to date: 915,587 7 Julie Gilhart, vice president of fashion merchandising, Barneys New 17 Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman York: “Prada was so amazing for me. When you see something so Marcus liked Donna Karan’s sexy curved dress. “That’s the way close to perfection, it serves as a standard for everything else.” women want to dress,” she declared. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, Paris ANNA SUI, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 674,632 540,180 Show date: March 8 Show date: Feb. 12 Total page views to date: 859,745 Total page views to date: 906,644 8 “I thought Alexander McQueen was to die for with its couture 18 Fashion directors praised the streamlined looks featuring fur and fake details,” said Villa Moda’s Majed Al-Sabah. fur of Anna Sui, who was inspired by snowboarding and an exhibition at the Neue Gallerie on Weiner Werkstatte designer Dagobert Peche. VERSACE, Milan CAROLINA HERRERA, New York Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 662,227 537,369 Show date: March 4 Show date: Feb.10 Total page views to date: 750,241 Total page views to date: 788,785 9 Versace celebrated the feminine body in “a modern and sexy way, 19 Retailers applauded Herrera’s efforts, which were as glamorous as which was refreshing and inspiring,” said Robert Burke, vice always, with a hint of the mysterious Hitchcock heroine. president and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. OSCAR DE LA RENTA, New York CHLOE, Paris Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: Page views during first two weeks collection was posted online: 653,196 532,382 Show date: Feb. 10 Show date: March 9 Total page views to date: 935,972 Total page views to date: 532,382* 10 Oscar de la Renta’s black leather belted biker jacket and burgundy 20 Saks Fifth Avenue’s Lividini commended Chloé’s inventiveness, sweater cape were among the top picks of Saks Fifth Avenue’s senior adding, “The most interesting thing was the mix of performance vice president of merchandise and communication, Jaqui Lividini. and activewear details with ready-to-wear pieces.” SOURCE: STYLE.COM. THE WEB SITE HAS A MONTHLY READERSHIP OF MORE THAN 600,000. THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE AUDIENCE IS 32, WITH A MEDIAN INCOME OF $67,000. EIGHTY-FIVE PERCENT OF USERS ARE FEMALE. * DESIGNER PAGES WERE MONITORED THROUGH MONDAY. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 13 f n x R w w

ahoo.com y @ (212) 564-1269 req’ (631) 231-7876 y y EOE/MF/V/D. all issues relating to prod’ ahoo.com y & PO entry. Will monitor & Time/Action Calendar, order 201-662-1588 @ y DATA ENTRY CLERK Fax resume to: 212-594-9633 has two immediate openings: PRODUCTION PRODUCTION Apparel - Sourcing HEAD ALLOCATOR W. Suffolk apparel manufacturer OPERATIONS MGR/ Fax Resume & Salary to: N.J. Based Women’s Apparel FirmMulti w/Multi Divisions wantsto person Companies, overseeShipping. Min. 10yrs. exp. Order Entry thru ork in ourill Foreign Sourcing be Dept & resp for creating vendor ssistant for growing accessory Co. endors. Fabric and trim knowledge [email protected] Production Coordinator Email resume: [email protected] or PRODUCTION ASSIST Fax resume w/ salar Product Manager - Assist PRODUCT MANAGER PROD’N ASST/SHIPPING MANAGE 1-2 years exp.heavy Responsibilities data, include reports. Knowledge of AIMS301 a plus! entry of PO’s, invoicing, follow-up on Leading childrenswear mfrfor an searching Assistant Productw Manager. Will w Largeindividual outerwear withfollow-through company 2-4 all yrsMust seeking experience production be to details. detailliterate. oriented Ability and topaced, high-volume import dept req’d. computer work well in a fast- PRODUCTION COORDINATOR 2-4 YRS EXP.up Must & haveoriented communication strong and organized. follo skills, Responsibilities include be detail- alltion phases from of initialand garment daily order communication produc- to withv final overseas delivery NJ Women’sClifton, apparel is Co., lookingperson for to a located detailfactories. work oriented in closely Candidate shouldsible, with be highly respon- Far motivated andGood East organized. communication skillsup. and follo PCyears and experience. Lotusplus. exp. Far a973-249-8651 East must. Fax exp.J resumes is w/salary a 3+ req. or to Highly e-mail skilled ProductionA Manager & to production & communicateseas with factories. over- Goodexcellent computer skills follow-up & skillsstaff to complete give information.resume to Harriet @ sales Please fa fast paced environment. Followscheduling, up shipping WIP + receivingfinished product. Multi-tasking a must. of all 5 toDevelopment 7 yrsaspects exp. Mgr. of Seeking Productclosely exp’d to Development. with Product design Work to and manage develop merchandising separates Women’ apparel. all production s Oversee process Casual, from(spec the initial related concept entire samples and development) bulk production.ble Responsi- for sourcing, throughQuality costing and Control. overseeing confidence: resumen sales Pls send resume in fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. & quality totime shipments. ensure quality product & on Exp’d detailed indiv. able to work in Must have knowledge of all aspects o manuals, sample follow-up,devlmt, fabric/trim costingmaintain pkg sent overseas, essential. MS Outlook andPlease Excel a must. resumen send resume in confidence: placement

212-725-8723 manufacturer Technical Designer Fax Resume to: Human Resources & great growth potential. & great [email protected] 212-398-2086 Call 212-944-7144 PLANNER CAROLE HOCHMAN DESIGNS CAROLE HOCHMAN Managers applications for 212-278-8643 Patternmaker/Fitter PROD’N PATMKR $60K Human Resources at Please fax resume to Fax 212-556-5303 No phone calls please. Better Women’s Sportswear Mfr PATTERNMAKER Luxury Italian Ready-To-Wear in our metropolitan boutiques Job responsibilities include:Design Workingwith team MerchandiserPrioritizingwork and from to linecostingspecs inception meet for through allpack. all final calendar production. development deadlines. Fittingallrevisions usingExcel Creating to counter basedpatternmakingto factories. spec samples effectivelyinternal Possessinga staff communicate and and strongknowledgeof factories.and corrections Flat pattern communicating sketchingdetails to of corrections and TOP Samples. specs. Approving all pre-production garments for spec packs. Developinggraded Candidate mustWord have a excellentskills, MUST), computer be strongpatternmakingand detail skillsoffer oriented, communication and competitive (Excel an salarywork in a great team environment. and effective and time benefits manager. and We the opportunity to Assistant Managers Only those selected for further company is currently accepting PRODUCTION/ ADM. ASST. VERY exp’d person. Pleasant atmos- consideration will be contacted. Wemotivated are &retail results-oriented seekinghighly excellent professionals interpersonal skills, superior with and customersense a service opportunities of highly forcommitted & ambitious individuals. motivated, style. developed Excellent Production Assistant Pls fax resume w/ salary to: 212-684-3295 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 PHILADELPHIA JOBS phere, exc sal Create & maintain value statements Communicate w/ plant personnel Enter bill materials & cutting tickets Order woven labels & tickets & process the related invoices for offshore production PROD COORD $Open PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 Couture Eveningwear Co. looking for a µ µ Leading Mfg./Importer Women’s Appa- rel Companytant seeks Production inmaintain Assis- Design daily status Dept.overseas of to samplesMust from thru control have knowledge of and computer garment production literate spec, withfollow-up skills. Fax resume to Jody: Excel and process. great Movie StarProduction Inc., seeks Assistantoriented, an entry possesses thatskills level good and is communication office is environment. detail able Mustliterate to perform the following tasks: be to computer workµ in aµ busy Domestic garment manufacturer seeks patternmaker w/ exp.first in thru production, catalog Gerber specs, computer- ized patternmakingmust exp. beoriented. Fax resume hard preferred, &ments to 212-279-9629 Attn: Tony. salary require- working and detail Leading women’s apparel seeks indiv.understanding with ofposses a retailorganizational comprehensive math. skills. ExcelKnowledge Must strong proficient. Responsibilities of& include: analytical Retailprovide Planning sales detailedperformance, Link vendor communications, & analysiscommunication with overseas offices. a+. tracking, of sales ability to Mustw/commun. be & followmeet up detail skills, strictdevelopment able deadlines to orient., &must dealing inspect. be excellent w/the garment of computer ind samples, e-mail only to: exp. literate List & salary have req. & . x x s & (213) 489-5871 (201) 438-8597 212-997-9252 LOS ANGELES 323-589-0342 212-947-1521 Designer [email protected] or 212-947-3400 DESIGNER y DESIGNER Fax resume: 212-695-9721 212-564-2996 attn: Michelle Fax resume & cover letter to: Please fax resume in complete [email protected] Designer - Jr. Knits oven, casual to elegant. ork from sketch and spec. Responsi- Merchandiser/Designer Must Have Retail/Wholesale Bkgrnd. Email resume: [email protected] or MERCHANDISER Import/Logistics Coord Fax resume to: 212-819-1158 Attn: GW Knit Designer-Children’ ToddWa PATTERNMAKER Menswear Merchandiser $110K confidence, attn. Sara @ Fax: 212-391-4327 Attn: Bud Konheim Importer - Jr./Missy/Plus customs. Mustfluent in Chinese and English. be detail-oriented & ble forresident design a & +. Gerber prod’n. exp. Fittings. a NJ +. Pls. fa an experienced LA based Merchandiser Must have thoroughIndian market and be willing to travel. knowledge of the Contemporary ladies,& leather outwr., seeks sptswr. anto exp’d make patternmaker 1st thrudidates prod’n. must patterns. have Can- & min. proven track of record.w 5 Must yrs. be able exp. to resume & salary req’s in confidence to: exp. in related fieldN.Y. to showroom. work in Strongdetails fast-paced & eye excellent forseas knowledge trend, of prod’n. over- ateam player must. with strong Mustskills. Please Fax resume to Charles at: communication be a great For Newtrendy Domestic & Division edgyCAD & Graphic ability essential. - (i.e. Urban urban, Outfitters). Needed to workren’s wear on importer. premises Mustlowing of have the skills: child- fol- able excellent to spec flatputer and sketcher; fit garments; proficientPhotoshop. Fax resume to Zach at: be com- in ColorMatters & Nicole Miller isdesigner seeking with a 3in sportswear to a 5Experience should include knits and successful years sportswear experience w company. Looking for dynamic salesmerchandising person experience with andCompensation ability. six figures.resume to: Please Fa Must haveindustry, 2+ import/export, ocean yrs shipping experience in fashion Leading Childrenswear mfrcreative seeking a infant, boys toddler 4-7 Knithave and Designer. knowl Must ofyrs children’s knit apparel exp. girls Primavision & newborn, havefax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. 3 Growing boysimporter 4-18 seeks highlyfor licensed motivated indiv sprtswr apparel line.Photoshop and Illust. Minized, self 5 Must starter, be yrsplayer, able to manage others. detail organ- exp oriented, with team Hot, est’d. Junior/ContemporaryCo. Sweater seeks designer w/minimum 3 years Jr. woven import company is seeking , f f d y . wd.com y -Order Entry Clerks (3) (201) 946-0900 -Senior Fabric Merchandiser to: -Associate Production Manager Gloria Vanderbilt, Gloria Vanderbilt, y MTQ at 212-302-1856 212-391-0881 positions in their NYC Office: positions in their NYC -Production (2) Assistant/Data Entry -Customer (2) Service Representatives BUYER Entry-Level histor CTL / MTL y Order Entry 212-685-6627 attn: Issac immediate openings for the following immediate openings a division of Jones Apparel Group, has a division of Jones Apparel Computer knowledge must; MAS COORDINATOR Design Assistant Customer Service / nthia Owci at: [email protected] Gloria Vanderbilt is autor leadingdesigner,marketer and distrib- ofjeanswear. Gloria Vanderbilt women’s marketsto its national products moderately chains, nationwide specialty department retailers. stores, Brands priced massior include merchants, Gloria product stretch and Vanderbilt marketedlooking and for under jun- and people theable who GLO to are work twill brand highly inrel motivated, a name. Group fast-paced organized We offers team and fits package! environment. are competitive salaries Jones and Appa- For an excellent considerationrequirements to [email protected]. EOE bene- email your resume with salary Min 3-5 years denim exp. 5-7 years exp., exp.design in and denim necessary, production,procedures, set up systems serve manage as liason denim btwn washes, implement /attention to detail. Degree in fashion ear many hats! Potential for growth. ith salar ccy co seeks indiv to administer ork with European Mills & Designers. y Allocations - Shipping CAD Designer - $30,000 Fax resumes to 212.575.1781 or e mail ASSOCIATE DESIGNER DATA ENTRY CLERK 212-790-5990 / ehazan@earl CAD ARTIST- Boys/Girls Asst. to Textile Rep BOOKKEEPER - A/P graphics &fashion sportswear presentation &Strong activewear boards Illustrator lines. &a must. Fax resume to: 212-279-6817 Photograph for skills Established, fast pacedseeks P.L. self compan assist design motivated teamsign. in Qualified individual allability candidate to to areas must flat ofzational sketch, have: de- excellentw organi- skills, good follow up A Established apparelhighly motivated individual company withmum mini- two seeks yearsdetail experience. Should be Microsoft oriented word/excel.w and Opportunity to a self-starter. Est’d Accessliterate individ. Co. WillInvoicing, AMT train seeking Software inplus. Fax resume & salary requirements: experience computer EDI a and Seeking exp’d. &keeper; independent Minmum A/P 2 years book- ence; garment experi- 90 plus. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Fashion forwardapparel discount private chain ofin label 10 metropolitan plus ladies stores aggressive area, seeks andtake energetic charge motivateddepartment of for buyer our dresses andJunior, Buying sportswear Missy to and & Largeable Design sizes. to Must work be withand have wide knowledge range of ofdevelopment all products with phases an of understanding line colors, o fabrics andcomputer details, skills. mustw have Please fax resume Boys &person Girls w/ Import skills Co developing flat seeks sketches exp’ Fast-paced Jr. SweaterIllustrator Co. a Knowledge must; o Somerience sweater preferred. expe- Please FaxC resume to Exp. with Bridgebe knit wear organizedProficient line. Must in &Excel) CAD, a must! detailed Word,chandising Knowledge & in Outlook in oriented. line all & production. mer- aspects of Experience knitwear helpful. in Web-PDM- Email resumefax to (610)258-4978 Attn: C. Poe. to [email protected] or Highly organizedw indiv.Selling neededTextile plus exp to req’d.ent Very administrative position flexible, independ- withcommission. Fax resume to: 212-675-4579 duties. room to grow. Salary + alltesting aspects requirementsMTL. of Strong forsalary color Excel commensurate CTL / skills benefits.resume to: [email protected] and Email and required. product Design. Pls.requirements to: fax resume & salary , e e - o

[email protected] y 800-506-6652 212-719-0622. y 212-869-2699 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] REGIONAL REPS MDSE. MANAGER SALES MANAGER PRODUCTION Men’s & Women’s PROD’N. MANAGER SALES EXECUTIVES PRODUCTIONS W-I-N-S-T-O-N computer skills a must. Call Sherr Fashion background and DESIGN*SALES*MERCH (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Updating/Phone Interviews Fax resume to: 212-768-7773 Fax resume to: 212-967-0643 DOMESTIC PRODUCTION 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 www.resumesforfashion.com Interviewing to form new staff Contemporary/High-End E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: Fax resume to: ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD CFDA Nominated Designer COTTON, RAYON, NYLON, SILK, PATTERNS/SAMPLES ADMINISTRATIVE ASST ork independently and keep office Customer Service Mgr. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Please fax resume to Sue: 212-221-7017 dmin Since 1967 pparel manufacturer needs aggressiv CASHMERE! Fine Gauge sweaters! Administrative Asst. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Allocation/Distribution/ sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 APPAREL STAFFING ASSISTANT DESIGNER ASSOCIATE DESIGNER All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Full Service Design Studi RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 including Photoshop &yrs Illustrator. min. 1-3 offers compensation & benefits. exp. Friendly environment, Needed for apparel manufacturer. Must have specific experience with shipping apparel to Wal-Mart Stores. Email resume & salary requirements: Established,sports growing co. seeksphases team contemporary player of toimport/export, design join all process.development Must & spec full have computer knowledge sheets, print Major Sweater Companymotivated seeks highly great assistant trend and colorstrong sense. designer Must have along product with withplayer development CAD and excellent &must. skills communication sketching. a Team deliveries toemail resume & salary requirements to: warehouse, etc. Please Growing outerwearmulti-faceted co. and organized individual seeksto handle bright, customerG/L, service, A/P,tions. factor A/R, Candidate reconw should and admin be func- able to A A individual to purchasereporting, trims, customer service, delivery coordinat name it, we can do it. Tel: 770-424-4386 Specializing in small productions. Sam- ples, duplicates, patterns.shop to the trade. Fine fast work. Full service Jones approved Mfr.for more info: zhang in China. E-mail Sweaters, knits,China coordinates. factory. Design Tiesples concept & to production. to sam- PL development. You (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 running smoothly. Excel a must. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Kohl’s -

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All Quantities 212-880-0414 3750 SqFt We Buy Men’s, *ALL Off-Price* Call 212-997-4300 Live/Work CLOSE OUTS Women’s & Children’s 488 7th Avenue B’way+7th Ave SUBLETS 1466 Broadway Share showroom if needed. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 New Hi Ceiling Installations Three by Three 201-861-0033 For Space in Garment Center Great ’New’ Office Space Avail EAST HAMPTON 1500, 2200, 3500, 8500-Tower Fl Hot Lofts-Low Prices, All Sizes of fashion district. Very Bright. MAIN ST RETAIL. TIFFANY’S, Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece Showrooms & Lofts GREAT LIGHT P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Hi Ceils. Wd Flrs. Immed Occup. WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY POLO, COACH, BANANA & YOU. Also HBA and General Merchandise. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. We buy any fabrics, even remnants, IDEAL FOR SHWRM/OFC/DESIGN 1 BR SHOWROOM starting at $1625. We are nice people to deal with BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 212-629-8694 M-F 10am- 6pm. No Fee. CLOSEOUTS WANTED FASHION CORE BERNSTEINRE IN. $60/SF. 212-583-1256, 631-537-3312. buttons, beads and trims. 212-243-4913 Sublet-large office available in middle Richard Price 594-1414 x265 Great Broadway Location! 24FT W, 75 FT D. READY FOR MOVE Furnished Showroom.to sublease or share. Call: 213-683-8020 Prime location Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 store sales at the Charlotte RusseCharlotte the at sales store comparable- in drop persistent and significant a “experienced has firm the said executive, chief cy-related payments. occupan- primarily costs, other all for million $3 and write-offs asset store for million $3 proximately ap- is figure this in Included cept. con- this exiting with associated cents, 15 by share per earnings ing reduc- charge, pre-tax million $6 a record to expects it said retailer afullrollout. sales tojustify necessary the deliver to failed has concept the because possible as soon as teens, young and tweens for store accessory lifestyle a concept, Room Charlotte’s the ing test- discontinue to decided has it said nameplates, store Rampage and Russe Charlotte the under stores retailer,268 operates which 10 ofitsCharlotte’sRoom stores. all close to plans it said and loss second-quarter a report to pects ex- it Tuesday warned Holding — YORK NEW olwu kls olg ls u not but plus, necessary. Pls.faxresumetoIlyzaat: a excellent College ex- with skills. follow-up oriented be fast detail Should a tremely skills. in stron communication possess well Must atmosphere. works paced who organized motivated accessory individual highly a Junior seeks and co. Ladies Exciting 997-7997 (212) to plus. resume attn: LCorcall(212)997-7464 benefits. a fax multiple and Please handle environment experience work to Good Dictation and ability player tasks. o team the handle a President have be assist to Must and company. individual phones busy reliable ener- an seeking getic, Company Sweater Jr. Fax benefits. Excellent resume toCharlesBangat: exp.; Salary on during etc. based deliveries, buyers handling greeting markets, for re- individual sponsible personable charge, switchboard. Take extension line/55 16 Merlin A be salary Must and ship- requirement to212-679-1381. comm. resume arrange Fax email self-motivated. East & fabric/trim working Far entry up ment, seeks follow data hard & delivery, trace Apparel to organized, indiv. Intimate detailed, Midtown Charlotte Russe Charlotte Leaves the ‘Room’ Purchasing Coordinator prlC.ek x’.rcpins for receptionist exp’d. Co.seeks pparel Eveningwear companyseekssewer oe pae ru n.ofr necletbenefits excellent an offers Inc. excellent fast with Group player upbeat, package andanexcitingworkenvironment.EOE team Apparel an a must in Jones be candidate thrive Must ideal communication skills. The and environment. plus. oriented, Knowledgepaced a background. detailed systems necessary. creative, computer specing strongtechnical is A/I and skills of construction a Strongcomputers This garment required. of possess experience. knowledge years Thorough must 3-4 an with lookingfor person Designer is Company Woven Brand Associate Moderate Women’s Major with minimum5yearsexperience. RECEPTIONIST Sales Assistant In addition, Bernard Zeichner,Bernard addition, In quarter,current the the During specialty Diego-based San The SAMPLEMAKER RECEPTIONIST candidates shouldfaxoremailtheirresumewith Fax resume:212-629-3004 Associate Woven’sDesigner For Confidentialconsiderationallinterested (212) 564-1269 [email protected] salary historyto:212-947-0277 Charlotte Russe Charlotte 212-575-2214 g f as n oss h blt owork to ability the possess tech and comments, paks, & sessions fit grading, w w Designer w Technical a seeking importer sportswear/outerwear suede & Leather v coordinator w sourcing Compan and sample Sweater seeks Import Prominent Computer needed. skills amust! experience years 3 experi- seeking is enced salesprofessional. Company Textile A owr nafs ae,high-volume paced, fast a in environment. Overseastravelreq’d. ability work literate, to computer responsible, efsatr laesn eueto resume send Please resume self-starter. production a oriented, production, & of multi-task areas senior well-organized, all be in exp. experience. be a of Must years 10+ with for manager opening Technical Designer location. SENIOR PRODUCTION Sample andSourcing da utb ealoine and oriented detail be must idual Production Assistant Experienced, F/Tposition.Brooklyn t er wae xeine Indi- experience. sweater years 5 ith l esdi ltsecig specs, /outside sampleroom.Faxresumeto: sketching, flat be Must in experience. versed of years ell + 3 ith Please faxresumeto:212-563-7484 SAMPLEMAKER ao pae opn a an has company apparel major 212 -8191158attn:Elsie _ and third quarters of fiscal 2003 fiscal of quarters third and second the during increases sales comparable-store low-single-digit ing theCharlotte’sRoom stores. clos- on loss pretax million $6 the excluding share, diluted a cents 7 to cents 5 of loss net a pates antici- it said also It 29. March ending quarter the for percent 12 to 11 of sales comparable-store in decline a report to expects it hasn’t shownanyimprovement. March date, to and, comps tive nega- experienced company the February,in year.”that, noted He the of quarter slowest seasonally our this, in chains Rampage and finders@l Sales Person “ quarter of the year.the of quarter slowest seasonally our this, sales…in comparable-store in drop persistent Coordinator Please faxresumeto Call Marcoat(718)382-1777 MANAGER 212-730-2099 On Jan. 23, CR said it expected it said CR 23, Jan. On said company the result, a As We experienced a significant and significant Wea experienced y cos.com. — Bernard Zeichner, Charlotte Russe Holding y raie /ecletcommunication excellent be Must w/ processes. organized approval lists. and compli- ances account of understanding full JCP volume have Must and high product Target handle in existing exp. to w/ development, Co. Salesperson Childrenswear seeks Label Private Major experience. years development Fax ALISON/METTE: 1-3 sample production. of and aspects all through follow on pack, tech complete sketch into designer’s translate Must communication player, skills. team w/strong oriented detail enthusiastic a be Must Tech Designer construction fit, merchandising accurate of knowl & Working tech/dvlpmnt design team. organize for provide support pre- and specs, sketching, packages, flat - costing on-line Newborn fit development, analysis, for specs Provide 16. Designer Size seeking Technical is a mfr childrenswear Leading TECHNICAL DESIGNER eain n otcst otdis- most E-mail merchants. to resume: [email protected] mass contacts and counters and current have relations infants Must wear. promotional children’s and of by importer required large Salesperson Experienced start. immediate for bridal exp yrs Excellent salary/benefits.Resumeto: 2 sales requires min street retail with 57th salesperson at top Roth Michelle skills. GreatOppty. atrs rdn optrsil a skills computer must. Excellentsalary&benefits. & grading patterns, E-mail resume:[email protected] Assistant TechnicalDesigner ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fax: (212)643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. Girl’s DressyDresses Est’d successfulkidsdressimporter E-mail: funk seeking SalesProtoexpandinto Chains and/orPrivateLabel. BRIDAL SALES Fax resume212-967-8631Att:MN [email protected] or Fax212-245-1511 THEORY ” yg $6.73 earlyintheday’ssession. of low 52-week new a hit stock The trading. Nasdaq in $7.83 at close to percent, 11.5 or $1.02, down stock the of shares sent Tuesday.Wednesday,On on investors markets the of close the after million, or32centsadilutedshare. $7.4 to percent 1 rose income net as percent 3.6 off were comps 28, pared to24centslastyear. com- quarter, third the for cents 30 to cents 28 year,and last cents 15 with quarter,compared ond sec- the for cents 15 and cents 13 between share per earnings and [email protected] CR made the announcement the made CR Dec. ended quarter first the In 212-997-7409 Jennifer Weitzman — s , ’ ny uthv togcnat with contacts strong hitters have W heavy Must - manufacturer only. executives sales vertical seeks apparel Large j Explosive multiproductladiesand Please individuals! right Fax allresumesto: the for growth potential for Great opportunities salespeople. has experienced Inc. Fashions, New ma- with Contacts NYC exp. yrs. j sales. experienced 5 have sweater Must in for sweater Manager. Sales looking domestic Co., contemporary Jr. related 1yr w/ self-starter a Seeking communication good & organizational andcomputerskills. w stores contacts est’d specialty have Must mkts. regional W Fax resumeinconfidencetoIlyzaat: Must haveextensivemarketcontacts. experienced salesandacct.executive. for therightperson. efr di uis utbe Must excellent duties. with communication andcomputerskills. motivated showroom admin & the organized in perform line our & show to exp nomto o 1-9-67o e-mail or to nbtim 212-398-7647 salary to: and w/ information salary resume Fax excellent pkg. offer commission We etc. JCP Jr. SweaterSalesMgr Contemp/Better/Bridge lineislookingfor unior accessorycompanyseeking available package Great must! a ors Outerwear/Leather Sptswr. Very successfulSportswearCo.w/Updated/ We offerawarm,friendlyenvironment Sales -AccessoryCo. lMr,Kh’,Tre,My Federated May, Target, Kohl’s, al-Mart, r u fN fie&tae to travel & Office NY of out ork SALES EXECUTIVE SALES EXECUTIVE SALES ASSOCIATE Great SalesOpptys! Sales Prostojoinourgrowingteam: email: l Fax resumeto:212-391-4431 Fax resume:212-768-7773or and companybenefits. Lynn Ritchie _ sls@ y (212) 564-1269 nn@l y ahoo.com y 646-366-0314 nn-ritchie.com findings withcreativethinking.” those balancing and strategy marketing our for research that using customer, the to listening on focused “We’re said: but BR, for implement will Calhoun gies strate- marketing reveal to clined de- retailer Francisco-based tions atLeviStrauss&Co. posi- marketing holding as well as Rubicam,Young & and carre, Bede- Haligman Citron Belding; Foote,at teams ad up & ing Cone head- years six spent he that, to Prior Schwab. Charles at tising adver- and management brand for president vice executive ly Chiquet. Maureen president BR to ports re- Calhoun January. in post the resigned who Schoening, Amy succeeding Republic, Banana for marketing of president vice executiveas company the joined has Calhoun WednesdayJack — ANGELES LOS Executive Marketing VP Banana Republic Names A spokeswoman for the San the for spokeswoman A recent- most was 38, Calhoun, sales , / , lsbnft.Ealrsm salary & resume Email incentive histor salary, benefits. plus Excellent national delivery generate accounts. department and can sales who immediate at stores specialty and contacts with established individual for opportunity growth train brightself-starter.Exp.inmen’s, take ondirectacct.responsibility.Will Energetic persontoassistourstaff& uf&Si o ek r ae Pro Sales Sr. seeks Co. w Swim & Surf or 212-398-0007 Call fax salary commission. Benefits, special- catalogs. w/ and and Contacts stores exp. yrs ty 5+ w/ salesper- reliable son company, seeks NYC, bottoms in and located tops size Large Email override. yrs & 2-5 shows. resume to:[email protected] Comm trade req’d. run hire exp also & will force Dept. Indiv Hi-end road sales. Store for Cami Spec Exec & Sales Tee-Shirt/trendy seeks Co. NY Growing to callonmass,mid-tier,discounters Self-motivated, energeticindividual j A w 1)7/16 midtieractivwr2)I/16Walmart/Target Call: 212-643-8090orfax:643-8127(agc r’s orkidsaccessoriespreferred. Sales Executives(2) Surf &SwimSalesExec Please faxresume:212-764-6912 t lease5yrs.salesexp.req’d. t aaeetep Exciting exp. management ith ith branded&privatelabellines. n oi eainhp ihmjracut.Slr commen- Salary market accounts. major Jeanswear surate withexperience.Pleasesendresumesinconfidenceto: with Juniors relationships in solid experience Executive. and years Account 3+ based have NY Must lookingfor brand tier Moderate Sr. AccountExecutive SENIOR ACCOUNTEXECUTIVE Excellent opportunitytojointoday’s Looking forsalespro’swithback- Please faxresume,attn.Mikeat: SALES MANAGER ground inJrs./Girlsaccessories y SALES -GIRLSAPPAREL our resumeto212-398-1987. (socks orslipperspreferred): SALESPERSON y to:hiredem@ JR. SALESEXECUTIVE GREAT COMPANIES! attn: PresidentofSales Private Label contemporary leader a Ic said Inc. Gap (212) 268-0543 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Junior DenimSales y ahoo.com New York,NY10001 7 West34thStreet Box #1049 last year. month same the in drop percent 10 a with compared February in decline percent 3 a posting tory, terri- same-store-sales negative in remain they although proved, over-year comparisons.” year- is challenge next The fall. “Spring shouldbeassuccessful WachoviaSecurities. at alyst an- an Teklitz, Joe noted helped,” has roots basic its to back product Republic Banana “Justtaking up. leg a division upscale Gap’s giving for 2001, in Burberry from rived ar- who Lloyd, Deborah signer half-year slide. two-and-a- a after February in growth sales same-store of month straight fifth its posted having turnaround, a of stages first the and OldNavy. Gap at vacant remain sitions y ) Rs 4 soe hv im- have stores 441 BR’s de- credit analysts Banana, At in be to appears Gap Overall, po- marketing top other Two TION, ACCOUNTING,TECHNICALetc.staff? esi h S n bod Promo- abroad. and USA motivated tional Lotsavailable.Fax:718-786-3548 the for in looking Reps mfr Child/Boys/Girls/Jr. swimwear end Low/Medium nation- Seeking Lanka. w Sri Israel, & Kong, Hong Jordan Turkey, in Facilities or 731-287-0271 at Bill deliv- fax 731-288-2281. call time pric- Please on and ery. competitive and quality rib highest offer ing, fleece, We jersey, sell interlock. line: to - territories fabric Dyersburg all mfr our in fabric reps formerly sales established seeks - well Fabrics, Fabrics Dyer to: Int’l. SportswearApparelCo DYER FABRICSREP **CALL 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Do youneedexp’dDESIGNERS,PRODUC d ae e.Pes -alresume E-mail Please Rep. Sales ide nteJno/is/lsMarket;. Fax orE-mailresumetoRogerat: experience Junior/Missy/Plus sales the in years 3-5 individual with aggressive an Seeking 212-398-2630 /[email protected] [email protected] ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS*** HOKUS POKUS Swimwear Reps — Kristin Young y .** - WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 2003 15 ERP/ 1.877.LACEDYE (973)485-3332 www.sampledyeing.com www.ngcsoftware.com Miami (305) 556-9122 www.onewayservices.com New York (212) 369-3778 Daily Courier Service in Manhattan 24 Hour Service No Minimum Yardage Frustrated? Crazed? Need one company to: Oneway Warehousing & Distribution with no outsourcing. We answer questions today! Sourcing & Supply Chain Visibility We are the answer. All services are done in house Make your goods & sell them…we’ll do the rest! •Sample Fabric Dyeing •Exact Component Matching •Sample Cup Molding *Receive, warehouse, & ship your goods. *Enter orders, invoice, & create reports. *Create UPCs, load to QRS & print tickets. *Process in/out EDI and make UCC labels. 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