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Donatella Versace's Day, Alber Elbaz's Deep Thoughts, Diana Vreeland's Family & Christian Louboutin's Garden FALL FA

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Donatella Versace's Day, Alber Elbaz's Deep Thoughts, Diana Vreeland's Family & Christian Louboutin's Garden FALL FA Green=Pantone 8264 C Spine width = 7/32” (final) The The wall sTreeT journal Magazine wall sePTeMBer 2012 s T ree T journal Magazine FALL FASHION Donatella Versace’s Day, Alber Elbaz’s Deep Thoughts, Diana Vreeland’s Family & Christian Louboutin’s Garden se PTe MB er 2012 0912_WSJ_Cover_Shipped_02.indd 1 7/17/12 1:42 PM RALPH LAUREN__205608742.indd 2 7/17/12 2:06 PM RALPH LAUREN__205608742.indd 3 7/17/12 2:07 PM NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO GREENWICH BAL HARBOUR View the Runway Show and go behind the scenes with the Ralph Lauren application on your iPhone® or visit RALPHLAURENCOLLECTION.COM Ralph Lauren_ 205608743.indd 2 7/17/12 3:51 PM Ralph Lauren_ 205608743_2.indd 3 7/17/12 3:52 PM armani_205609334_US.indd 2 7/23/12 4:01 PM armani_205609334_US.indd 3 7/23/12 4:02 PM ESTEELAUDER_205607332_EK.indd 2 7/2/12 12:21 PM Constance is wearing Pure Color Nail Lacquer in GL Bête Noire, Vivid Shine Lipstick in FL Forbidden Apple and EyeShadow in 03 Cyber Lilac. esteelauder.com © 2012 Estée Lauder Inc. ESTEELAUDER_205607332_EK.indd 3 7/2/12 12:22 PM Ermenegildo_205608147_US.indd 2 7/10/12 2:21 PM Ermenegildo_205608147_US.indd 3 7/10/12 2:21 PM AMERICANA MANHASSET ATHENS BAL HARBOUR DALLAS DUBAI LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MADRID NEW YORK RIYADH SOUTH COAST PLAZA TORTUGA BAY OSCARDELARENTA.COM OSCAR DE LA RENTA.indd 2 7/18/12 1:54 PM OSCAR DE LA RENTA.indd 3 7/18/12 1:54 PM Omega_205608611.indd 2 7/16/12 4:29 PM Omega_205608611.indd 3 7/16/12 4:29 PM GUESS_205607865_EK 2 7/6/12 2:46 PM GUESS_205607865_EK 3 7/6/12 2:46 PM NEW YORK 717 MADISON AVENUE EAST HAMPTON 23 MAIN STREET LAS VEGAS FORUM SHOPS DEVIKROELL.COM devikroll_205608009_US.indd 2 7/23/12 3:56 PM devikroll_205608009_US.indd 3 7/23/12 3:57 PM september 28 88 FASHIONABLY LOUD AND INCREDIBLY BAROQUE The heavy jewels, brilliant embroidery and exquisite lace of fall’s finery shine among Paris’s glittering streets. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATJA RAHLWES STYLING BY SABINA SCHREDER 94 THE COLLECTOR At his home in the French countryside, Christian Louboutin adds to his treasures with a vast new archive of his beloved shoe designs. BY DANA THOmAS PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALExANDRE BAILHACHE PRODuCED BY CAROLINA IRvING 104 DREAMING IN OTTOMAN Istanbul, a city built on contradictions, has a thriving cultural scene that is forging a bridge between its past and its future. BY LAWRENCE OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDRES GONzALEz 112 AUSTERITY MEASURES A new crop of coats are strikingly voluminous and bold. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN TOmS STYLING BY ROBBIE SPENCER 120 LIKE HOME, ONLY BETTER London’s most exclusive new club is a stylistic reflection of its owner’s impeccable taste at home. BY RITA KONIG PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAmES mERRELL AND ROLAND BEAuFRE cover Photography by Katja Rahlwes in Paris. Ralph Lauren Collection cape and pants; Dries van Noten blouse; Chanel necklace and earrings; Sonia Boyajian necklace; Chanel Fine Jewelry watch this page Photography by Julia Hetta. 80 Céline jacket and shirt; Hugo boss tie For details see Sources, page 130. 19 0912_WSJ_TOC_04.indd 19 7/24/12 12:35 PM 07242012113700 CONTENTS “He smiles broadly and, at that moment, the richest man in Japan unbuttons his shirt to show me his Uniqlo underwear.” —“THIS MAN WANTS TO CLOTHE THE PLANET,” P. 64 28 editor’s letter 50 tracked Donatella Versace 32 backstory oversees her couture show, a glamorous 34 market report: dinner and a raucous trend after-party. Autumnal hues and gypsy looks set fall’s tone. 56 partnership A generation apart, radio 38 market report: auteur Ira Glass and teen news blogger Tavi Gevinson Louis Vuitton adds high are kindred spirits. jewelry to its repertoire in a new shop on 60 style the Place Vendôme. The visionary Diana Vreeland was a force to 45 soapbox be reckoned with— Lanvin’s head designer, in fashion and in her Alber Elbaz, empowers own family. women through fashion. 104 HE ac H Bail RE xand ann; alE FFM ; BEn Ho MS n To Ez; BE gonzal RES : and lEFT P To RoM F SE 94 60 112 clockwi CloCkwise from top Istanbul’s Sakirin mosque; model Franzi Mueller in a Maison Martin Margiela coat; a memo Diana Vreeland ONLINE @WSJ.COM/MAGAZINE wrote on the themes of the 1960s when she was editor at Vogue; Exclusive photos of Christian Louboutin’s Paris apartment. Also, outtakes from “Dreaming in Ottoman,” the expansive gardens at Christian Louboutin’s country home our exploration of the ancient yet modern city of Istanbul. wsj.com/magazine. in France’s Vendée region. 20 SEPTEMBER 2012 0912_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 20 7/20/12 6:03 PM 07202012170407 CITY InnovaTor of THE YEar of THE CITI IS THE proud SponSor livability culture museums, community centers the ability to safely walk down the street casT + conserved historic buildings and neighborhoods 2013 Quality public spaces for communities cities list is Is Is Boston WSJ. your investment economic climate standing on their feet or even making progress being that MagazInE investment prospects city + ease of doing business are aWardS a pared. current economic growth still contender? raising a environment increasing energy efficiency around in? SPECIAL ADVERTISING PROMOTION WITH THE WALL STREET JOURNAL We land green infrastructure To the reclaimed brownfields and waterfronts Abu started + VoTe OF THE use new water conservation measures Voting the bar commemoraTe more resilient and healthy communities Dhabi? for raising the bar for the world globe with continues their human capital 200 education high numbers of advanced degree holders with young, ambitious student populations Singapore? citizens + enthusiasm about acQuiring knowledge innovative forward- creative thinking and new ideas and productivity for and the infrastructure diverse transportation alternatives mobility 200 thinking shiny subways, rapid transit systems, high-speed rail View professionals votes economic progress + airport hubs, bicycle sharing and pedicabs Program details and criteria public spaces the and analysis Years water, sewage and energy systems list work iNNoVaTioN and dialogue and decisions have an outsized impact are places in power corporate votes YEAR vote of diplomatic negotiations areas of helping lawmaking from at and for global gateways, points of governance wsj.com/ad/cityoftheyear like ciTi selection Urban infrastructure. us in the process of structural change education, potential pivoting rapidly into an era of explosive growth progress narrow are dramatic increases in human capital Land available + leap-frogging infrastructure investments elevating expectations the land meeting struggles with solutions Institute at wsj.com/ad/cityoftheyear. laying the groundwork for prosperity field. Your use, technology research research and development of new technologies . game-changing information technologies + material science, robotics, life sciences innovators are dedicated to exploring “what is possible” CONTENTS 120 73 45 “Sometimes you don’t really need armor to feel protected. Sometimes maybe you need just a chiffon dress to hug you.” —ALBER ELBAZ, “sOAPBOX,” p. 45 TaMaT on T M aul B hi 64 renegade 80 fashion Japan’s richest man The season’s gamine wants to dress you and looks make a convincing everyone you know. argument in favor of the subtle appeal that comes from 73 making it aTi; REnE & Radka T The inspiration behind foregoing frills and RP Valentino’s fall collection embracing tomboy chic. is a group of iconic women that includes Patti 132 still/life anilo Sca Smith, Joyce Carol Oates, A look at the most ; d Louise Bourgeois and adored possessions of FRE Susan Sontag. the fashion designer au L’Wren Scott—items 76 design that form an emotional The designs of the ’70s portrait of the woman look better than ever, behind them. : Roland BE EFT l owing to the clean but P luxe aesthetic of the To era’s furniture designers, RoM like Maria Pergay, Pierre F Paulin, Francois-Xavier SE 50 and Claude Lalanne. clockwi GET WSJ SATURDAY CloCkwise from top Club owner Robin Birley’s Knightsbridge Get a Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal for a weekly fix of smart style and culture. IncludesOFF DUTY, home; a gown from Valentino’s fall collection stands among a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. inspiration boards; Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz; models lounge at 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. the Ritz Paris before walking in Versace’s couture show. 24 SEPTEMBER 2012 0912_WSJ_TOC_03.indd 24 7/23/12 5:23 PM 07232012162434 YOU SPEAK SOFTLY AND CARRY A LOUD BAG WE KNOW YOU’RE OUT THERETHERE THE COPLEY SADDLEBAG, A CLASSIC SILHOUETTE IN SMOOTH LEATHER, ELECTRIFIED IN NEON PERSIMMON. INTRODUCING THE HANDBAG AND SHOE SHOPS ATAT JCREW.COM JCREW.COM JCREW_205607998_EK.indd 2 7/19/12 1:44 PM JCREW_205607998_EK.indd 3 7/19/12 1:45 PM EDITOR’s LETTER ExpEcT ThE unExpEcTED we look forward to the crisp, bracing spirit of fall, with its empty notebooks and sharpened pen- cils, the cooling of temperatures and the updating of closets—all the possibilities of a renewed mood and a fresh start. While we anticipate the rituals of this time of year, what really excites us and heralds the season are all the wonderful new things we didn’t see coming. This issue pays tribute to the unforeseen in ways that we hope will inspire and delight: crazy, over- the-top fashion, as seen on our cover, that offers a sense of freedom and fun (page 88); Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz, who, while remarkably humble and shy, belted out a heartfelt rendition of “Que Sera Sera” on stage after his 10th-anniversary show (page 45); the high-school blogger phenomenon Tavi Gevinson, who had her 15 minutes of fame four years ago, got bashed by the very press that courted her and then, undaunted, launched the online teen magazine Rookie with the help of mentor and like-minded friend Ira Glass (page 56); pictures that reveal how dressing like a boy can be a very feminine thing to do (page 80); a Middle Eastern city that is styl- ishly embracing its complex Ottoman heritage as it forges its cultural future (page 104); and Christian Louboutin, a passionate gardener and collector of beautiful things who also happens to make some of the most coveted shoes on earth (page 94).
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