MAINLAND STELLA’S MOSCHINO NEW PARTNER THE BRAND SHOWS ITS WOMEN’S RESORT AND STELLA MCCARTNEY MEN’S SPRING 2014 SIGNS A NEW FRAGRANCE COLLECTIONS IN SHANGHAI LICENSE WITH PROCTER TO RAISE ITS PROFILE IN CHINA. PAGE 9 & GAMBLE. PAGE 7

CLOSE SLIGHTLY DOWN Coty’s New Shares Get Tepid Reception

By MOLLY PRIOR

COTY INC.’S fi rst trading day got off to a lukewarm start on Thursday. Making its debut against the backdrop of a ro- bust stock market, Coty’s shares — initially priced at $17.50 — had dropped to $16.90 by late morning, FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY but began to rebound throughout the day to close at WWD $17.36 on Thursday, or down 0.8 percent, on the New York Stock Exchange. The closing stock price values Coty at roughly $6.94 billion. Investors may be taking a wait-and-see approach to the company, which has seen a slowdown in top-line growth so far this year. Organic sales are up 2 percent year-to-date for fi scal 2013, compared with 8 percent in fi scal 2012, noted Linda Bolton Weiser, an analyst at B. Riley & Co. “There is healthy interest out there, but [potential investors] want to see a better performance. It’s a bit of a ‘show me’ situation,” said Weiser. Coty’s chief executive offi cer, Michele Scannavini, celebrated the company’s initial public offering by ringing the opening bell at the New York Stock Exchange on Thursday, standing alongside the fi rm’s executive team and designer Vera Wang, whose fra- grances are produced by Coty. “It was a defi ning moment for us,” Scannavini told WWD, following the bell ringing. “We worked so hard over the last year to get there.” Scannavini said the IPO will not materially im- pact the company or its modus operandi. “The peo- ple are the same as before. The business is the same as before, and the challenges and successes are the same as before,” said Scannavini. “Our priority is to grow in-line or better than the market and to expand the operating margin. We want to defend or increase market share.” In terms of category focus, he said Coty will continue to work to build all three of its businesses — fragrance, which accounts for the bulk of its sales, cosmetics and skin care. “We believe there are opportunities to grow each of them.” He did note that as little as six years ago, fragrance accounted for 70 percent of the business. SEE PAGE 7 Bertelli Lashes Out By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Patrizio Bertelli wants Italian politicians to get their act together. The Prada chief executive offi cer on Thursday called on the government to institute a number of measures, including a 10 percent tax cut. Insisting the Italian luxury goods industry is in “excellent health,” Bertelli added, “The real prob- Shades of Marc lem is the relaunch of the economy. The cost of work Marc Jacobs is about to step into one of beauty’s most competitive categories: is high, but at the same time salaries are too low. We color cosmetics. The designer’s 122-stockkeeping-unit Marc Jacobs Beauty can’t raise salaries but we are conscious employees don’t have enough spending power.” line launches at Sephora on Aug. 9 and could do as much as $15 million at Addressing the problems of youth unemployment, retail in North America by yearend. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Bertelli said, “Politicians only talk about this now but there is no global vision. You have to accompany young people into the workforce, but there are not enough companies that can afford to do this and not enough work opportunities for young people. If we cannot add young people, there are no foundations for development.” In a forceful speech, the businessman said that only companies that export 50 percent of their production can survive in Italy, given that the market “is stalled.” Bertelli touched on subjects ranging from the need to avoid an increase of value-added tax, the high cost of bureaucracy and the lack of infrastructure that hurts tourism to cutting the number of holidays in order to meet the needs of production. Bertelli quoted an Italian politician, left-wing PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE Fausto Bertinotti, who has said “Let’s all work, let’s all work less.” SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013 WWD.COM Asia: Challenge and Opportunity THE BRIEFING BOX the age of 65, and the country’s senior citizens are By AMANDA KAISER “the richest in the world,” according to Motoya IN TODAY’S WWD Okada, president and group ceo at Aeon. Aeon has TOKYO — The demographic diversity of Asia — rolled out smaller supermarkets in densely popu- from Japan’s aging society to the fast-growing lated urban areas that are easy to reach by foot. consumer bases of China and India — offers up a The retailer also opened a large store in Tokyo fea- Jen Brill at the Barneys dinner. For more, see WWD.com. wealth of business challenges and opportunities for turing a café, bookstore and hobby space, catering retailers and manufacturers, according to execu- to older consumers’ desire for social interaction. tives speaking at a conference here. Kao has made an effort to label its products more The Consumer Goods Forum’s annual Global clearly and place them in smaller, lighter containers. Summit kicked off its three-day run here Seven-Eleven has launched a delivery service Wednesday, drawing hundreds of participants from for precooked ready-to-eat meals and groceries to the retail, consumer goods and food industries. The assist less mobile elderly customers. organization brings together chief executive offi- ■ Geping Guo, chairman of the China Chain Store cers and other executives of more than 400 compa- & Franchise Association, said Chinese retailers nies across 70 countries. have witnessed a slowdown in business over the Here are some highlights of the first two days of last couple of years in line with the broader inter- the conference: national macroeconomic trend. ■ Tadashi Yanai, chairman, president and ceo of Chinese retailers’ sales growth this year “will Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., spoke can- remain within 10 percent,” she said, citing a survey didly about how his company turned its missteps conducted by her organization. STEVE EICHNER into learning experiences. The executive gave sev- She said Chinese retailers are facing challenges as eral examples of where Uniqlo had failed when they lack an adequate level of managerial skills and PHOTO BY entering new markets, from expanding too quickly knowledge of the needs of consumers in third- and in London and subsequently having to close several fourth-tier cities as they expand to those markets. stores, to selling items that were priced too low in ■ Kishore Biyani, founder and group ceo of Coty Inc.’s shares on Thursday — the company’s first trading China, not realizing that Chinese consumers would India’s Future Group, spoke about his country’s day — closed at $17.36, down 0.8 percent, on the New York want the same quality of products available to extremely young consumers looking for “branded, Stock Exchange. PAGE 1 shoppers at Uniqlo stores in Japan. value-added” products. When entering the U.S. market, Yanai said the An Indian born in 2009 will over his or her life- Prada chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli on Thursday company miscalculated by simultaneously opening time consume 13 times the amount of goods as one called on the Italian government to institute a number of three stores in New Jersey shopping malls, only to born in 1960, he said, adding that 60 percent of measures, including a 10 percent tax cut. PAGE 1 find that suburban consumers who were unfamiliar India’s population is under the age of 35. “Western with the brand didn’t shop there. The stores closed, fashion is doing phenomenally well,” he said. Marc Jacobs has teamed up with Sephora Originals to and unsold stock was transferred to Uniqlo’s SoHo ■ Yoko Ishikura, a professor at Keio University’s launch an ambitious color cosmetics collection called Marc store in New York, which was much more successful. Graduate School of Media Design, said Japan needs Jacobs Beauty. PAGE 6 “When failing, I think it’s best to fail early, when to work harder to empower its young people and [the business] is small. I think if you fail early, give them more practical hands-on business re- Stella McCartney has signed a licensing deal with the P&G you’ll be able to succeed the next time,” Yanai said. sponsibilities — perhaps even internationally — ■ Prestige division of Procter & Gamble Co. less than a month Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Muhammad Yunus early in their careers. The country also needs to PAGE 7 spoke passionately about his mission to create busi- rectify its woefully low gender parity levels and tap after leaving L’Oréal. nesses to help solve world problems like hunger into this underutilized but educated segment of the and poverty. population, she explained. Satish Malhotra has been named executive vice president As chairman of Bangladesh’s Yunus Centre and “My immediate suggestion is to get out of the of Latin America, Sephora Canada & Sephora Inside founder of Grameen Bank, the professor spoke of country,” she said, offering her advice to Japan’s JCPenney (SiJCP). PAGE 7 how he applied business principles to improve young people. “But we [older Japanese need to] people’s lives, from granting collateral-free loans make sure that Japan will be the much better place This year’s Fragrance Foundation Awards on Wednesday at to women in his native Bangladesh to setting up ag- when they come back.” Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall in New York went off without a ricultural projects in Haiti. ■ Executives are placing a greater emphasis on hitch. PAGE 8 Yunus also drew laughter from the crowd when “back-to-basics” strategies like product development, talking about how he learned how to run his busi- marketing and brand building, according to a Forum Women in Film feted its 40th anniversary at its Crystal nesses by looking at what for-profit banks were and KPMG International-sponsored survey of leaders + Lucy Awards, sponsored by Max Mara and Swarovski, doing — and then doing the exact opposite. from 442 of the world’s largest consumer companies. Wednesday night at the Beverly Hilton. PAGE 10 “We are the only bank in the whole world which Executives are considering more “trendy al- is lawyer-free,” he said. “And it works.” ternatives” such as social media, e-commerce and Maggie Gyllenhaal was among the guests gathered on the ■ Executives from Kao Corp., Aeon Co. Ltd. and Seven- mobile sales and development less of a priority, the seventh floor of Bergdorf Goodman in New York at a dinner in Eleven Japan Co. Ltd. spoke about how their business- research concluded. French designer Roland Mouret’s honor. PAGE 10 — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS es are catering to Japan’s fast-aging population. Nearly a quarter of Japan’s population is over FROM KELLY WETHERILLE Zac Posen is designing a wedding gown and social occasion collection exclusive to David’s Bridal. PAGE 11

John Galliano’s highly anticipated appearance on “Charlie Viktor & Rolf Make Plans for Paris Shop Rose” aired Wednesday night on public television. PAGE 12 Paris that has recently sprouted boutiques includ- By MILES SOCHA ing Balenciaga, Chloé, Theory, & Other Stories and PVH Corp. is decentralizing the design functions of Calvin Dior Parfums. Klein Jeans and cleaning up its distribution in the U.S. and PARIS — Viktor & Rolf, which is returning to cou- The designers are preparing to celebrate their Europe. PAGE 12 ture week here next month after a 13-year absence, 20th anniversary in fashion, and recently opened a is also planting retail roots in Paris. new Paris showroom in a historic townhouse on the ON WWD.COM The Dutch design duo of Viktor Horsting and tony Avenue d’Iéna. Rolf Snoeren said Thursday they would open a The designers opened their first signature EYE: Mark Lee hosted a dinner party to celebrate Proenza 5,400-square-foot flagship at 370 shop in 2005 on Milan’s Via Schouler’s 10th anniversary collection for Barneys. Rue Saint-Honoré, previously an Sant’Andrea with then partner For more, see WWD.com. Anne Fontaine location. Gibò SpA. That 750-square-foot The two-level unit, in part- unit — with a kooky upside- nership with Staff International, down decor featuring oak par- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. part of Viktor & Rolf parent quet on the ceiling and chande- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. OTB SpA, is scheduled to open liers sprouting out of the floors COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. in the fall. It is to house ready- — closed in 2008, the year VOLUME 205, NO. 121. FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two to-wear, bags, shoes, accesso- Italian entrepreneur Renzo additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance ries, eyewear and fragrances for Rosso took a controlling stake Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, women and men. in Viktor & Rolf through his Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, “We are very much working holding company OTB. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver on the store concept,” Horsting Staff International pro- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North said in a phone interview from duces and distributes 50 col- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. the duo’s Amsterdam design lections, including Maison Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or studio, noting they are collabo- Martin Margiela, Dsquared2, inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine rating with the Paris-based firm RICHES Marc Jacobs, Just Cavalli is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Architecture & Associés. and Vivienne Westwood Red You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt The designer said the French PHILIP Label. The firm finished 2012 of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New Viktor Horsting BY York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request capital was an obvious choice and Rolf Snoeren with consolidated revenues for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. for the retail volley: “We consid- PHOTO of 300 million euros, or $385.7 Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that er Paris to be our fashion home. million at average exchange, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at It’s where we started 20 years ago. Paris is still the exporting 80 percent of its production. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED symbol of fashion.” The retail division of Staff counts 120 stores ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER He noted that the new boutique would set the worldwide, including directly operated ones and UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR template for future units in other major cities. franchises. The group expects to open 37 additional DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Viktor & Rolf joins a burgeoning retail strip in monobrand stores by the end of the year. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. TH

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Resort Alexander Wang J.Mendel 2014

Alexander Wang: It was a surprise, a near shock, to walk into Alexander Wang’s showroom and see real color — pink and green — not just “ink” and “mink” and other wink-wink adjectives for black and gray that he’s stuck to in the past. Wang delighted in crafting his terrific resort collection as the antidote to the serious volume Giles ▲ and neutral-centric fall collection, “deflating the shapes and working with supersaccharine, supersweet colors,” he said. All things relative, the sweet factor was delivered with Wang’s streetwise edge via a more playful side to his aesthetic — he has another outlet for fashion grandeur now. The clothes were mostly short and sporty. Sophisticated techniques, such as vacuum-pressed pleating on a white leather peplum top and matching skirt, contoured some of the silhouettes to the body, while another circle-cutting pattern gave a boxy, dolman- sleeve effect to a leather dress and a sparkly spearmint green sweatshirt. Fabrics were a mix of elevated technical, in a viscose linen on a tennis dress and matching vest, and classic luxury: ample leathers in black, caramel brown and pop pink. Wang mentioned the artificial appeal of candy coatings and colors, that was best exemplified by a silicone version of his Prisma bag, a jelly alternative to his streamlined shopper.

J.Mendel: A sartorial romantic, Gilles Mendel found inspiration in a kindred spirit — Robert Desnos, specifically his poem “Ma Sirène.” Mendel envisioned his resort sirens bathed in “underwater” hues, the pale tones handled with such subtlety they were barely apparent to the naked eye. Featherweight cocktail dresses came in a shimmery pink jacquard meant to imitate the look of mother of pearl, and a nude tulle gown with black chevron beading was lined with a hint of seafoam silk. Since the sea and seaside go hand in hand, Mendel also worked a significant Riviera stripe motif, as asymmetric cotton strips mounted on airy organza for day dresses and as transparent panels to lighten up his signature furs.

Giles: “Something free and sporty, graphic and pop in its sensibilities,” said Giles Deacon of his feminine but edgy resort collection in a palette of hot pink, lime green and yellow. Deacon’s motif of the season was a circle with a dent in the middle — like the top of a screw — which he worked into vibrant prints on silk dresses and broderie anglaise on black and white smocks, blazers and A-line dresses. Neat, tailored coats also got the screw top treatment, here woven into a subtle FOR MORE jacquard. Other looks took a more IMAGES, SEE technical turn, in the form of dark “summer scuba” polyester dresses WWD.com/ with laser-cut hems, and dresses runway. made from a cotton and metal mix.

Roland Mouret: Roland Mouret has been pushing himself to evolve from the precisely tailored, curve-hugging dresses for which WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013 5 WWD.COM

A.L.C. Richard he is known. “A petite woman’s Chai worries are very different than Love a size 12 customer, who’s a little older,” said Mouret. “But I want them all to feel great.” On that note, the designer sought to appeal to a broad range of body types, offering fitted and slouchy silhouettes, all of which incorporated color and Mouret’s signature origami details. For those seeking sleek, there was a tailored black-and-white Roland jumpsuit, bright peplum tops and Mouret ▲ zipper-back pencil skirts. More generous cuts included a series of draped tops and cocoon dresses that featured a folded detail at the hip to elevate the design quotient.

A.L.C.: Anchored in her own reality, Andrea Lieberman’s resort collection was about “an East Coast girl who traveled the world and is back in L.A.” Such a lifestyle demands everyday ease delivered with style, this time influenced by L.A.’s surf culture and a black-and- white photo of a flower. The latter covered the palette — black and white with a splash of red — while Lieberman’s casual cool attitude was expressed through leather track pants and a crop top, and a sleeveless crop top and matching skirt done in a blurry stripe motif.

Richard Chai Love: Expressing “an easy spirit through tailoring” was Richard Chai’s goal for resort. Mission accomplished in his languid separates, such as a cropped T-shirt and high-waisted pants, and slouchy suiting. A stark white jacket and trouser combination worn with a cobalt shirt looked boldly minimal, while a skirt “suit” — a cropped jacket with utility pockets worn with a gently flared silk skirt that was banded at the waist and hem — was soft and sporty. Blue was the premier color, whether in muted solids or Veronica Yeohlee bright accents in abstract prints. Beard Veronica Beard: The women’s movement in the Seventies, specifically the idea of having it all, was Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard’s inspiration for resort — understandably so. The sisters- in-law, who are working mothers with eight children between them, launched their line three years ago with the idea of a blazer and a dickey and have since expanded into a full collection. With images of Diane von Furstenberg and Ali MacGraw and Helmut Newton photos in mind, they tweaked their blazers, strengthening the shoulders and nipping the waists. There were high-wasted trousers and a twist on the tuxedo as a jumpsuit and jacket. For a more modern take on the power woman, the designers offered bonded leather and Neoprene cocoon jackets, a suit in coated graphic tweed and a cropped trench and Windbreaker hybrid.

Yeohlee: For an architecture enthusiast such as Yeohlee Teng, the recent publication of a book on the work of Horace Gifford, a pioneer of Fire Island modernist architecture, could not have been more aptly timed to resort. With Gifford in mind, Teng worked up a collection fit for “living a beach lifestyle.” She used summer fabrics, such as a dense white seersucker, on wide- leg pants and a sheath dress with a seemingly simple cut that belied its gusset seams. Color came in shibori silks and a vivid print that combined multiple geometric patterns on a jacket and shell. And since life ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE JOHN AQUINO, is not always a beach, there were solid citifed silks, such as a skirt cut longer in the front than in the back PHOTOS BY and a matching cardigan jacket. 6 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013 beauty Getting Marc’d Up at Sephora enjoying the ritual, of making the By Julie NaughtoN and choices that will tell the world For more Pete BorN who you want to be that day.” Images, see simply put, he notes, “i think

Marc JacoBs is venturing into everybody is the star in their own WWD.com/ beauty territory where few de- movie. and so you dress the part, beauty-industry-news. signers have prospered and he’s depending on how you feel or doing it with his trademark wit what the part is that day. i mean and sharply defined aesthetic. my shrink probably knows who i instead of playing it safe, really am, but most people know

Jacobs has teamed up with me as how i present myself.” sephora originals to launch the 122-stockkeeping-unit line an ambitious color cosmetics is broken down into four broad collection called Marc Jacobs categories: smart complexion, Beauty. it is a strong statement Blacquer (Jacobs’ personal fa- and a brave move in a makeup vorite), hi-Per color and Boy category that has tradition- tested, girl approved. “i asked ’’ ally been hazardous for major them to do the blackest black,” he designers, who have launched said of the origins of Blacquer. “i color collections and failed. also love lacquer and the shine But from all indications, of lacquer as a finish.” smart Jacobs appears to be poised to complexion includes founda- deliver a winner, which could tions, concealer and powder; garner North american retail Blacquer offers a precision sales of about $15 million from pen eyeliner, lash lifter and gel august through December 2013, crayon; hi-Per color contains according to estimates by industry lip products, blush, eye shadow, sources. the number for the sec- bronzer and nail lacquer, and ond full year in North america is Boy tested, girl approved offers estimated at $20 million at retail. a lip balm, brow tamer and con- sephora declined to comment. cealer. genius gel super-charged Jacobs has designed every- Foundation is a $48 antiaging thing from couture to coke cans, formula offering 16 shades and infusing each with a sense of el- introducing buoyancy gel tech- egance and whimsy. he brings nology; it is buildable from nat- the same design sensibility to ural to full coverage. remedy I like the idea of transforming oneself, his new beauty collection, which concealer Pen, $39, is available will debut on aug. 9 exclusively in nine sku’s — seven shades, making and modeling yourself at sephora, sephora.com and se- a universal brightener and a lect Marc Jacobs stores. the in- universal corrector — and fea- troduction of Jacobs’ collection tures Jacobs’ proprietary anti- to what you feel like being. will mark the first time sephora aging remedy complex, as well has launched a brand simul- as a palladium tip to cool and — MARC JACOBS taneously in all freestanding smooth skin upon contact. Magic sephora stores across the u.s. Marc’er Precision Pen eyeliner, for $42 and seven for $59. (Don’t something, but i can describe be a blue circle.’ it was sort of and canada. it is also the brand’s $30, is a waterproof deep black look for a nude palette, though. something and i can get it.” a push-and-pull thing, and re- largest proprietary brand launch shade inspired by a lacquer “it would be too natural,” said that’s true of Marc Jacobs duced and sort of distilled what in terms of units — and its first table in Jacobs’ living room. Jacobs with a shudder.) Beauty, he added. “We spent a we felt it should be.” global launch, with plans to and Jacobs isn’t just limit- “and to me ‘shameless’ is lot of time developing materi- Jacobs chose the makeup stretch across europe and ulti- ing his offerings to the ladies. just an aspiration,” said Jacobs. als and choosing the colors. We colors the same way he selects mately reach china. three products are unisex: lip “Whether it’s wearing a lace dress work with the technicians at the fabrics for his ready-to-wear col- “i’m surprised by how de- lock Moisture Balm, $24; Brow with a pair of boxer shorts or mills to achieve a certain effect, lection, he said. “i start looking lighted i am with the results,” tamer grooming gel, $24, and whether it’s taking off my clothes so we did the same thing with at different colors and different the designer said during an ex- remedy concealer Pen, $39, for a magazine or whether it’s sephora. the color palette tells things and taking the color off tensive interview with WWD which is available in a universal admitting to my flaws or having a a story and that story is based on of one thing and putting it on earlier this month. “Now i want brightening shade called Bright hair transplant, i’m not ashamed a spirit. i chose different types of something else. there is a kind to see what the customer thinks. idea and a complexion correc- of what i do. i haven’t done any- characters, such as an ingénue.” of ‘i love that, i hate that.’ or, that’s the ultimate.” tor called stand corrected. thing wrong. and i’d prefer to be light, blendable’’ shades i don’t really like that but i do Jacobs originally let honest because i sleep helped Jacobs avoid the dread- love it when it’s combined with the cosmetics collection better at night.” ed caked-on old-lady effect. “i this or next to that.” news leak in an april Jacobs also don’t like natural, that’s a little he also road-tested the col- 2012 interview with stresses that all of lazy. But i think there is just a lection on his famous pals — in- WWD, before he’d his projects are a kind of honesty and an ease and cluding director sofia coppola, even had his first cre- collaborative ef- an irreverence with this.” artist rachel Feinstein and ative meeting with fort. “everything i “Putting this together and musician Kim gordon of sonic the retailer — and he do, whether it’s for working on this with the team Youth — as well as himself. “i makes no apologies for Marc Jacobs or with from sephora was very much escorted sofia coppola to the it. “hey, ya know, i say my team at Marc like putting a [fashion] collec- Met Ball and Diane Kendal [who what i say and i just Jacobs or with my tion together with my design consulted on the line] did her talk freely — i’m not a team at Vuitton, is a team,” said Jacobs. “it was makeup using all Marc Jacobs good puppet,” he said. collaborative effort. exactly the same approach. i Beauty,” he said. coppola has Jacobs grows ani- in the end, i have mean, i didn’t go to them with a also appeared in national adver- mated when he dis- to be the one to edit specific idea and i couldn’t de- tising for the fragrance lineup cusses his entry into and to make the fine for them what Marc Jacobs Jacobs does with coty Prestige. color cosmetics, not- final decisions, but Beauty should be no more than “and i’ve been using the Brow ing that he sees it as a it’s not something i i could define a collection the tamer,” Jacobs said, adding that perfect complement to can do alone. i need first day we meet about fabric or he has gotten to like the process fashion. “i like the idea to do that with, like, define what the shoe will be on of taking care of himself. of transforming oneself, The Marc Jacobs Beauty gondolas. the trust and the cre- the first meeting we have about Between color and fragranc- making and modeling ative input of other shoes. it’s an evolutionary pro- es, “i think color is easier,” said yourself to what you feel like Jacobs’ wit extends to the people — i am able to kind of find cess. and robert [Duffy, Jacobs’ Jacobs. “Fragrance is even more being, whether that’s once a day, names of the products, which what it is i really like through the business partner] always teas- like, sort of ephemeral in a way. three times a day, seven times a include shameless, a $30 blush dialogues and the suggestions es me and he says if you put a But [color] is closer to the pro- week, whatever it is. i like the inspired by Jacobs’ tattoo; and what other people bring. white piece of paper in front of cess of making a collection. transformative qualities of fash- lovemarc, a $30 gel lipstick it’s the collaboration of pattern- my face, i will hold my head in Formulas are like fabrics, fibers, ion and fashion to me is not just available in 16 shades named makers, sewers, it’s the mills frustration and say, like, ‘i don’t each fiber, whether silk or cash- clothing, it’s handbags, it’s shoes, for Jacobs’ favorite movies, and that work with us on the fabrics. know.’ But if you put a red line mere or whatever, they have nat- it’s clothes, it’s hair, it’s makeup, style eye-con, strongly pigment- i don’t know everything there on a white sheet of paper i’ll ural properties. they have a cer- it’s fragrance, it’s the whole rit- ed eye shadows that are avail- is to know about weaving fabric say ‘i don’t think it should be a tain look, they give you a certain ual of making those choices, of able in compacts of three shades or about fibers or how to create red line. i think maybe it should feeling.” and he doesn’t think

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retailer. Marc Jacobs Beauty will Selections launch in France, Italy and Spain from the in spring 2014, with a graduated Coty Makes Stock Market Debut Marc rollout plan for most of the re- {Continued from page one} test in certain markets to see the company’s voting rights and Jacobs mainder of Europe over calendar Today, it’s 53 percent. “We are how it performs. approximately 81.1 percent of Beauty line. year 2014. In early 2015, Sephora evolving the portfolio.” The company as a whole is the total equity ownership. intends to bring the line to China. Over the last decade in par- looking to expand its interna- For Coty, the day marked McGeever noted that a holiday ticular, Coty has worked to round tional footprint. “We are in- the end of several years of color collection is planned, as are out its portfolio by acquiring creasing our focus on emerging shifting strategies to enter the additional core collection offer- a number of color cosmetics markets and investing to in- public markets. ings beginning in spring 2014. and skin-care brands. In recent crease our capabilities in those In May 2012, Coty resumed National advertising is also years, the company spent $2.14 markets. We are rebalancing work on its IPO after its planned for September and billion to buy TJoy, Dr. Scheller, our business from consolidated, failed attempted to acquire October fashion, beauty and life- OPI and Philosophy. Potential style magazines, said McGeever. investors have zeroed in on its It was shot by David Sims. Social struggling Philosophy brand, media, a dedicated Web site — which has built its business in marcjacobsbeauty.com — window the specialty channel and via displays and what McGeever cryp- TV retailing. Coty acquired tically calls “disruptive ideas.” Philosophy for $929.7 million McGeever said he strongly be- in cash in 2011, but a year later THOMAS IANNACCONE lieves that Jacobs’ collection will took $515 million in impairment have legs for years to come. “The charges to adjust the value of the closer you get to the creator and trademark and account for the PHOTOS BY the authenticity that makes them impact of weaker-than-expected skin care is in his future. “I think tick, the more I think the magic sales and a slower international skin care is superimportant, but comes alive,” he said. “Marc is so rollout than anticipated. it feels more of a scientific pro- incredibly engaged. I get e-mails “We are very happy with the cess so I don’t know that I could from him almost weekly, like brand. It has a unique and spe- get the same pleasure or have ‘Hey, I’ve had an idea, what do cial position in the U.S. skin- the same passion as something you think about this for a name care market,” said Scannavini, that was aesthetic,” he said. “I of an item’ or ‘Here’s the sketch who noted the U.S. accounts might have a great time doing I was doodling on the airplane for 93 percent of Philosophy’s Michele Scannavini rang the opening bell at the NYSE on Thursday. the packaging for a skin-care on the way to Paris. Could this sales. The aim, he added, is to line, but I don’t think I could re- be a product?’ Yo u can’t bottle bolster international sales with developed countries to emerg- the struggling direct seller ally sit through four-hour meet- that stuff. Yo u can’t replace it “a slow build,” particularly ing markets,” said Scannavini. Avon Products Inc. with a bid ings about formula.” He is, by his with anything else. I feel very across Anglo-Saxon countries After the close of market of $10.7 billion. The follow- own admission, “seduced by the strongly that this is going to be or markets with strong prefer- on Wednesday, Coty priced its ing month it filed the initial visual,” with concepts and col- an embodiment of his brand that ences for U.S. brands. For in- shares at $17.50, at the mid- paperwork for an IPO with ors always moving through “the is going to have staying power.” stance, he said Philosophy has point of its forecasted range the Securities and Exchange Tumblr page in my head.” McGeever added, “We’ve had recently entered the U.K. and of $16.50 to $18.50, and raised Commission. But an unan- But for all his aesthetic the benefit for the last 10 years the Netherlands, and entered nearly $1 billion. ticipated ceo change delayed sense, the last thing Jacobs of selling Marc Jacobs fragrances Asia in Singapore, Taiwan and Coty will not receive any the process, pushing the IPO wants is for those using his line in our stores. Our clients love his South Korea. “We will be very proceeds from the offering; into this year, said industry to adhere to any strict definition fragrances, they love his fashion, selective in expanding,” said all the money will go to sell- sources. In July, Bernd Beetz, of beauty — including his. they tell us he’s one of the design- Scannavini. Asked if the brand’s ing shareholders, namely Joh. the mastermind of Coty’s cur- “I believe in individuality, ers they would most like to see whimsical natural will play A. Benckiser GmbH, Berkshire rent business strategy, stepped and what I think comes across do color cosmetics — and then well in Asia, where consumers Partners and Rhone Capital. down and was replaced by as most stylish and modern is a you combine that with the fact gravitate toward more serious These three shareholders con- Scannavini, who was formerly kind of irreverence and a sort of that he has just turned this into concepts, he said the brand will tinue to control 97.7 percent of president of Coty Prestige. self-confidence,” said Jacobs. “I an incredible labor of love where don’t find beauty in perfection, there really were no boundaries.” meaning Photoshop and air- Jacobs, in turn, appreciated brush. That doesn’t appeal to me. the free rein Sephora gave him I like a gap between the teeth, I to create. “They said we have the Stella McCartney Signs With P&G Prestige like mascara that does run a lit- luxury of starting from scratch — LESS THAN a month Luigi Feola, vice tle bit or makeup that’s smudged. there was no Marc Jacobs Beauty after parting ways president of global I like a bit of imperfection — I before, so it’s a blank canvas,” he with L’Oréal, Stella prestige, said it is too find it just more interesting.” said. “They didn’t say ‘ Yo u can’t McCartney has found early to discuss de- Neither does he attempt to do a unisex product’ or ‘We’re a new home for her tails of future plans. impose a point of view on the not gonna do color’ or ‘We’re beauty business — However, he intends customer. “They’re not buying not gonna do skin.’ There has Procter & Gamble Co. to develop the existing the concept, hopefully, they’re not been any ‘No.’ It’s a lot of The P&G Prestige di- business while focusing buying what they like.” ‘Anything is possible.’” vision, based in Geneva, on building fragrances. The products will be mer- Jacobs recently dabbled on has signed a long-term He maintains that chandised on custom-made, dou- the big screen with “Disconnect,” beauty license with McCartney will strong- ble-wide gondolas placed near a drama centered on a group of McCartney, which will ly complement P&G’s each store’s Beauty Studio — the people searching for human con- be effective Sept. 13, the portfolio. It adds a dedicated product demonstration nections in today’s wired world, designer’s birthday. British personality to area, noted Michael McGeever, which was directed by Henry As previously re- the mix and is not only senior vice president of Sephora Alex Rubin and stars Jason ported on May 21, global in scope, but Originals, who calls Marc Jacobs Bateman and Hope Davis. “I may McCartney and L’Oréal has a reputation as an Beauty “a game-changer.” be a Luddite, but I like to write mutually decided not ethical luxury brand.

Not only will the black-lac- notes and I still like the look of to renew their license STEVE EICHNER McCartney is a lifelong quered gondolas feature Jacobs’ ink and choosing my stationery,” agreement. That old Stella McCartney vegan and P&G has logo and products, but also a he said. Jacobs describes his role agreement will official- been studying ways to black-and-white shot of the de- as “an Internet porn baron.” The ly expire on Sept. 12. PHOTO BY eliminate animal test- signer and a recorded messag- film was released April 12. L’Oréal had acquired the McCartney busi- ing since the Eighties. P&G indicated that it not ing system built-in. Sephora also “I actually got good reviews ness in May 2008 as part of its deal to purchase only wants to build the brand on a global basis, plans a tease of the collection for the 35 seconds I’m actually the parent YSL Beauté from PPR (now known but intends to ultimately nurture McCartney into the weekend of July 19, when on screen,” Jacobs quips. But as Kering) for 1.15 billion euros, or $1.48 billion a full-fledged beauty house. top Sephora shoppers will see he’s not anxious to replicate at current exchange. The beauty brand included “We are always looking for brands of high five of the stockkeeping units. the experience. what was then billed as the first organic-based potential,” Feola said, adding that P&G has In another first for the retailer, “[That was the] first and last designer skin-care line, called Care. The skin- continued its strategy of paring its portfolio Marc Jacobs Beauty will roll time I will be acting in a movie,” care venture had already been put on hold down to fewer but bigger brands. In the last 24 out on the same day to all free- said Jacobs. “I am a fashion de- in lieu of developing the fragrance business. months, P&G has discontinued five licenses. standing Sephora doors in the signer. I never dreamt of being an McCartney had launched her signature scent, The last deal it added was the James Bond li- U.S. and Canada, roughly 330 actor. I did it because I thought Stella, in 2003, followed by L.I.L.Y. in 2012. cense in 2011. — P.B. stores, with seven or eight get- it was fun to have [the] experi- ting an expanded presentation, ence once, but fun isn’t the word said McGeever. That includes I’d use to describe it. It was very, the retailer’s first U.S. store in very long, very tedious. Out in Satish Malhotra Named Sephora Executive VP SoHo, where Jacobs will ap- Yonkers, in the freezing cold, pear to promote the project on the coldest three days of 2011. [I SATISH MALHOTRA has been JCPenney at its inception in Malhotra will report to Sept. 5. As well, the collection was] freezing cold with heating named executive vice presi- 2006, becoming its senior vice David Suliteanu, president will be tested in 50 of Sephora’s pads strapped to my body every- dent of Latin America, Sephora president in 2008. Over the and chief executive officer of J.C. Penney outposts. “We’ll where because we were outside Canada & Sephora Inside last five years, his responsibil- Sephora Americas. His appoint- see,” McGeever said of the J.C. from 4 in the afternoon until 9 JCPenney (SiJCP). ities have been expanded to ment is effective immediately. Penney efforts. “This is a high in the morning filming, repeat- Malhotra joined Sephora include Sephora USA’s infor- Prior to joining Sephora, price point for that consumer.” ing the same lines over and over in 1999. He was appointed mation technology, inventory Malhotra was a transaction The collection will be rolled and over again. So also it’s not the vice president and general management, logistics and re- services senior associate at out globally, another first for the kind of tedious that I enjoy.” manager of Sephora Inside tail operations departments. PricewaterhouseCoopers. — J.N. 2013 FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARD WINNERS FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Fragrance Celebrity beauty of the Year: Taylor Swift WWD.com/ Hall of Fame Award: Linda Wells beauty-industry-news. Perfumer of the Year Lifetime CONNECT. Alberto Morillas, Achievement: Dana Master Perfumer for Firmenich Carvey Consumer Choice Award Women’s: Justin Bieber’s Girlfriend by Elizabeth Arden Consumer Choice Award Men’s: Giorgio LEARN. Armani Acqua di Giò Essenza Best Packaging of the Year Men’s: Montblanc Legend by Interparfums Luxury Brands Best Packaging of the Year Women’s: Florabotanica Balenciaga Paris GROW. by Coty Prestige Retail Innovation of the Year: QVC Media Campaign of the Year Men’s: Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men Sport by P&G Prestige Products Scents, Stars on the Carpet Media Campaign of the Year Women’s: JOIN CEW. Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme by P&G Prestige Products Fragrance of the Year Popular Men’s: By JULIE NAUGHTON James Bond 007 by P&G and PETE BORN Prestige Products Fragrance of the Year Popular HOST DANA CARVEY had a Women’s: Justin Bieber’s little useful advice for the ladies Girlfriend by Elizabeth Arden in the audience at the Fragrance Fragrance of the Year Prestige Men’s: Foundation Awards Wednesday Tom Ford Noir by Tom Ford Beauty Join the ranks evening. “I think if women are Fragrance of the Year Prestige honest, they like a strong man,” Women’s: Dot Marc Jacobs he said to the packed house at by Coty Prestige Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Fragrance of the Year Luxury Men’s: of the industry’s Hall. “They like the broad Colonia Intensa Oud shoulders and the washboard by Acqua Di Parma abs. They like strength. They Fragrance of the Year Luxury Women’s: also want a man who can talk to Florabotanica Balenciaga Paris top executives them and understand them. But by Coty Prestige ladies, you can’t have that guy. Fragrance Hall of Fame: Red Door Because he has a boyfriend.” by Elizabeth Arden • The audience’s hysterical Perfume Extraordinaire: Robertet for laughter in response set the Black Saffron by Byredo Parfums, tone for a lively evening, and al- Taylor Swift Perfumer: Jerome Epinette though Carvey originally dryly noted that the ceremony would Network take “17 hours,” it easily clocked can feel that. In just a few short our entire distribution.” in at a little over an hour. months, Elizabeth has created a But it was Carvey’s wit that While past ceremonies have visible change in spirit and di- propelled the ceremony. In ad- with 5,500+ included such gaffes as 2011’s ex- rection, and I’m so very grateful dition to reprising many of his ploding transformer, this year’s for her partnership.” Belasco famous “Saturday Night Live” show went off without a major also thanked the Foundation’s sketches and even his “Wayne’s hitch, thanks to the new president board for its hard work, noting, World” character, Garth, Carvey industry professionals of the Fragrance Foundation, “We have a lot of work ahead of created a collage of fictional fra- Elizabeth Musmanno. Musmanno us, but we’re going to get there.” grance ads, such as Ravenous also eliminated the long-running Taylor Swift, who nabbed the by Chris Christie, Breathalyzer • nickname for the awards, FiFi’s. Fragrance Celebrity of the Year by Reese Witherspoon, Pump by The prizes are now dubbed the award, disappeared soon after Hans and Franz and, of course, Fragrance Foundation Awards. her award was presented by E. Satan’s Scent by the Church Musmanno chopped less-popu- Scott Beattie, president, chair- Lady. He also affected a French Access & learn lated award categories such as man and chief executive officer accent for much of the dialogue, direct selling; added a perfumer of Elizabeth Arden Inc., but not mimicking the Gallic-inflected lifetime achievement award, before she got in a plug for Taylor voice-over of the program. which was given to Firmenich’s by Taylor Swift, the fragrance she Justin Bieber didn’t show, from best-in-class Alberto Morillas; inducted the will launch later this summer, but he proved the power of so- first magazine editor in chief, showing both a behind-the-scenes cial media when he garnered Allure’s Linda Wells, into the reel and the finished print ad for the Consumer Choice Women’s Fragrance Hall of Fame, and the fragrance. “My first fragrance, award. Bieber sent just one tweet leaders added a tailor-made poem by Wonderstruck, was all about a to his 40 million plus Twitter fol- Richard Blanco, who also created daydream, a fantasy, this romantic lowers, inviting them to cast a a poem for President Obama’s ideal we all have....I love telling vote on Fragrance.org for his • second presidential inauguration. stories. I love starting at the begin- scent, which beat out heavy hit- “Last year, I stood before you ning and adding pages as you go. ters such as Chanel’s Coco Noir, and I committed to continuing And this is a really nice page to Dot Marc Jacobs and Gucci the evolution we had started add to that story,” she said. Premiere to nab the award. Be in-the-know at the Fragrance Foundation,” “Over the past two years, Former Balenciaga design- said Jill Belasco, chairman Taylor’s fragrances have sold er Nicolas Ghesquière gave a of the Fragrance Foundation. more than $150 million around shout-out via Catherine Walsh, “I especially thank Elizabeth the world,” said Beattie. “We senior vice president of corpo- with exclusive, for her leadership, which has cannot thank Taylor enough for rate communications at Coty brought an exciting new energy her passion, her perfectionism Inc., which holds the fashion to the Foundation — I think you and the way she has energized house’s scent license. “‘I am truly proud of Florabotanica — daily beauty news it was a fantastic creative free- dom to design it, and I had the great pleasure of sharing this unique project with the great people at Coty,’” Walsh read. Patrick Firmenich, chief ex- ecutive officer of Firmenich, was on hand to present Morillas — who joined the company in JOIN US TODAY 1970 — with his award. “We are very grateful that you, the fra- EICHNER grance industry, have decided to honor an extraordinary man,” STEVE

CEW.ORG BY Alberto Morillas and Elizabeth Musmanno he said, adding that the master Patrick Firmenich and Jill Belasco perfumer is “driven by his emo-

PHOTOS tions and his instinct to create.” WWD friday, june 14, 2013 9 WWD.COM Moschino Takes Show on the Road to Shanghai Attention was also given to brighter, By LARA FARRAR bolder colors for Mainland female Model Du Juan consumers, she said. walks the runway. SHANGHAI — Visitors to this city “China is so big, and not ev- of 23 million often remark that its eryone knows what the soul of glittering lights and gleaming sky- Moschino is,” Massimo Ferretti, scrapers, many of which were built president of Aeffe, the parent com- in the last decade or so, render it a pany of Moschino, said. “We believe metropolis of the future. China, for Moschino, could be very Which is precisely why Moschino important.” Ferretti said he ex- decided to hold an event Thursday pects China to comprise less than 10 evening here to celebrate the Italian percent of the brand’s global sales brand’s 30th anniversary. The event Rossella this year. “Our brand awareness is wasn’t only about honoring the Jardini at not enough,” he said. “Moschino is brand’s past, but was even more a the event. known but not well known.” celebration of its future, specifically The timing of Moschino’s deci- in China, a market that Moschino sion to broaden Chinese consumer entered five years ago. The company now trict across the river where staggering awareness of the brand could pay off. A has 42 stores in China where, according to feats of architecture were erected only 2012 McKinsey study of Mainland shop- executives, more needs to be done to raise in the last 10 years. Celebrity guests in- pers indicates that a growing set of more consumer awareness about Moschino and cluded Chinese actress Zhang Ziyi and sophisticated consumers are seeking out

what differentiates it from other luxury Chinese models Du Juan and Emma Pei. brands other than mainstream luxury ui By LUISA ZARGANI c players that have had a presence in the “There is always a first time for every- players in order to differentiate them-

country for decades. thing,” Rossella Jardini, Moschino’s cre- selves from their peers. “Interest among Matt D MILAN — Patrizio Bertelli wants Italian politicians Thursday’s event marked Moschino’s ative director, said. “The real motivation Chinese in products that appeal to their to get their act together. first runway show in China and the brand is to help the Chinese people know more individuality is clearly on the rise,” the acon an The Prada chief executive officer on Thursday introduced its 2014 spring men’s and about Moschino.” McKinsey study said. t called on the government to institute a number of women’s resort collections as well as a Jardini said the women’s resort col- “For us to be different is a key fac- measures, including a 10 percent tax cut. selection from the archives. The show lection features a capsule specifically tor and a point of success,” Alessandro Dave by Insisting the Italian luxury goods industry is in took place on a small man-made beach for the Chinese market. Dresses were Varisco, Moschino’s chief executive “excellent health,” Bertelli added, “The real prob- located on Shanghai’s famous Bund wa- made more fitted as well as shorter to officer, said. The ceo said Moschino is photos lem is the relaunch of the economy. The cost of work terfront against a backdrop of dozens of suit Chinese women’s tastes, while some planning to open at least four new flag- is high, but at the same time salaries are too low. We glittering skyscrapers in Pudong, a dis- necklines are cut more conservatively. ships in Shanghai and Beijing, though a mixed with red were set off with a multi- can’t raise salaries but we are conscious employees timeline for the openings has not been colored painterly floral print. Another don’t have enough spending power.” finalized. So far, the brand does not capsule was the safari palette-inspired Addressing the problems of youth unemployment, have any directly operated retail loca- separates in sporty silhouettes, popped Bertelli said, “Politicians only talk about this now For more tions in the country. with Moschino’s logo accessories and but there is no global vision. Yo u have to accompany Images, see “We think that the market now needs T-shirts. There were also Eighties eve- young people into the workforce, but there are not some change,” Ferretti added. “Now, in ningwear silhouettes with nipped waists, enough companies that can afford to do this and not WWD.com/ fashion-news. all of the department stores, you have the boxy shoulders and cascading ruffles. enough work opportunities for young people. If we same things — things must change. It is a Men’s encompassed tropical-surfer, cannot add young people, there are no foundations little too boring.” mash-up prints in an oversaturated nau- for development.” The resort collection featured classic tical palate of reds, blues and turquoises In a forceful speech, the businessman said that only nautical silhouettes with Eighties twists, paired with neutrals, like khaki, navy and companies that export 50 percent of their production including double-breasted blazers, olive. Other looks included the neo-prep- can survive in Italy, given that the market “is stalled.” peplum jackets and cascading pleated py/skate punk/boy scout also in a mix of Bertelli touched on subjects ranging from the need dresses with shoulder pads. Moschino’s prints and insignia on casual, sporty sil- to avoid an increase of value-added tax, the high cost signature touches of oversize details, like houettes. The cropped trouser and slim- of bureaucracy and the lack of infrastructure that buttons, pearl trims, zippers and bows, fitting suit still feature prominently in tai- hurts tourism to cutting the number of holidays in were included as part of a concerted ef- lored looks with photo prints as accents order to meet the needs of production. fort to reference the brand’s heritage. all over, like the lightning bolt suit. Bertelli quoted an Italian politician, left-wing There was also a nod to classic The finale featured a tribute to the Fausto Bertinotti, who has said “Let’s all work, let’s Parisian chic silhouettes in boxy jackets, brand’s Italian roots with cow printed all work less.” shifts and boat-neck blouses — the pouf ballgowns, heart-quilted motocross The show’s finale. skirt even made an appearance. Classic suits, boleros and mismatched Italian color palettes of navy, cream and black peasant dresses.

Patrizio viewing Valentino more in sync ’’ Bertelli with the French luxury sensibil- Bertelli on Italy, the Press and More ity rather than Italy’s ready-to- {Continued from page one} with the press either. He accused costs of bureaucracy. “It would wear. “I work with the Camera “He must have never worked a number of reporters of “igno- be a disaster to raise the VAT. della Moda so that we are all un- in a factory or in fashion. If rance” and “wrong attitude,” sin- They should touch the costs of tied, we have a common interest, you [have] a good, expert tailor, gling out and naming one from bureaucracy and not put their and Valentino wants to actively you can’t just cut him in half,” the Italian daily La Repubblica, hands in the pockets of Italians. participate, hold events in Milan, smirked Bertelli, barely catch- who claimed Italian firms that Bureaucracy is inefficient, it for example. But each brand is ing his breath in a freewheeling are owned by foreign conglomer- disperses resources. The in- specific, there should be more speech, and clearly affirming ates or listed outside Italy, such as dustry produces results and flexibility. Is it better to show in his desire to “make statements” Prada itself, whose shares trade bureaucracy throws them out Italy but have everything pro- during his slot. “Six weeks are in Hong Kong, “are no longer of the window,” he said, return- duced outside the country or to an ‘enormous’ amount of holi- considered Italian and no longer ing to the cost of work. “It’s an produce here and show in Paris? days. At Prada we reduced them mentioned in researches. “Is this unjust ratio. Young people see What is more important?” by one week. There is growing a joke? Italian reporters are only the gross salary and what they Sassi said Valentino has seen demand for our products, our considering firms listed in Milan. would actually earn and it turns Frankfurt, London and Paris. a 25 percent gain in sales in the them off from working in the It’s a touch-and-go form of tour- January-May period and that industry. It would work if the ism.” Bertelli revealed that, in the group expects that same in- Bureaucracy is inefficient, it disperses state offered the right services.” his new role as vice president crease for the full year. “Direct Asked how many young people of the Chamber of Fashion, he retail sales grew 40 percent in he had employed in the past sent personal letters to restau- the first five months of the year,” resources. The industry produces year, Bertelli said 150, all below rateurs in Milan asking them to said the executive, who credits age 30. “The average age of our remain open on Sundays during creative designers Maria Grazia results and bureaucracy throws employees is 36 and 60 percent the shows. “How can some lo- Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. are women,” he said. cales close during such relevant With the help of the new own- them out of the window. Concluding his censure of events?” he questioned. ers and a medium-long-term the political world, he lamented Speaking after Bertelli, strategy, Valentino is acceler- — Patrizio Bertelli, Prada the lack of interest in support- Stefano Sassi, ceo of Valentino ating its investments in retail. ing and developing tourism. “I Fashion Group and a new mem- “Visibility in distribution counts employees want to work, why We need more serious journalism. don’t understand — maybe [poli- ber of the presidency committee and we are catching up with our should we source to outside Have they ever considered that ticians] are deaf and blind, and, of the Chamber of Fashion, re- competitors,” said Sassi, citing laboratories when we can do it if we all locked our doors to the with all due respect to Spain, sponded to a question related to the new 20,000-square-foot flag- in-house? Our employees want French, for example, they would we are positioned eighth after the association’s efforts to return ship on New York’s Fifth Avenue to work more hours because be- lose 60 percent of their products? that country,” he marveled. luster to Milan. Sassi said there due to open next year. “In the tween bonuses and extras, they Between Gucci and Prada, we em- “How can we promote tourism if are no plans to show in the Italian 2009-2010 period, we invested 9 make more money,” said Bertelli ploy 60,000 people, of which 7,000 our airports are not adequate? fashion capital because Valentino million euros [$12 million at cur- at the fifth Luxury Summit orga- directly,” said Bertelli feistily. Yes, tourists come to Italy, but has shown in Paris for 40 years. rent exchange] in retail, and in nized here by Il Sole 24 Ore. He turned his attention back they are what remains of the “This is a brand message, it’s 2013 we expect to invest 100 mil- Bertelli didn’t mince words to politicians, ’’lamenting the big flows that travel through part of its history,” said Sassi, lion euros [$133.1 million].” w14a009a.indd 9 6/13/13 7:32 PM 06132013193402 10 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013

Angela Lindvall Leading Ladies in Max Mara. “THEY SAY THAT 40 is the new previous speech times by speaking fabulous,” said Jenna Elfman, who hosted for a full minute. Women in Film’s Crystal + Lucy “I’m proud to have a body of Awards, sponsored by Max Mara work now that reflects my point of and Swarovski, Wednesday night view, and I hope this award will at the Beverly Hilton, where encourage other women to express the organization feted its 40th themselves,” she said, also poking anniversary. The evening kicked fun at Lucas for being in the off by honoring the youthful minority that evening. Hailee Steinfeld, who drew Laura Linney, who received laughs when she began her this year’s Crystal Award for speech with, “Back when I Excellence in Film, called was a little girl…” The 16-year- herself a late bloomer, old wisely kept it short and by Hollywood standards sweet to make room for others anyway, having grown up in on the program, including the New York theater world.

cinematographer Rachel “Film was a world which Kiernan Shipka AMY GRAVES Morrison, the Kodak Vision intimidated me greatly,” she and Hailee Steinfeld, Award honoree, and the said, “but on the wise advice both in Max Mara. evening’s lone male honoree, of my agent, I dipped my toes PHOTOS BY George Lucas, who received the in slowly, and I realized there show would just be a bunch of desperate Amandla Stenberg and Shipka. A few dished Norma Zarky Humanitarian would have to be room in my masturbators in great suits.” on their work schedules for the summer. Award for championing January life for two loves, so I gave The previous night, Women in Film’s Steinfeld was heading to Romania children, veterans and, of Jones in Mary myself permission to be a annual preshow fete, hosted by Max to film “The Keeping Room” with Sam course, women. Katrantzou. film-theater bigamist.” Mara’s Nicola Maramotti and W magazine, Worthington and Brit Marling, while Olivia “I actually prefer being Holly Hunter, presenting the took place at the Beverly Hills Hotel’s Munn was headed to New York to star in surrounded by women,” he Lucy Award for Excellence Polo Lounge, which Steinfeld declared “so a film for Jerry Bruckheimer. said. “I think they’ll run more in Television to the female Old Hollywood.” Most of the guests who “He actually handpicked all the actors, than 50 percent of the world cast of “Mad Men” — January Jones, crowded into the legendary restaurant and which is a first for me,” Munn said. “It’s before I’m gone.” Christina Hendricks, Elisabeth Moss, Jessica tree-lined patio were new guard, including proof that if you keep your head down The usually less-than-verbose Paré and Kiernan Shipka — quipped, Mary Elizabeth Winstead, Sophia Bush, Ahna and work hard, people will take notice.” Sofia Coppola topped all of her “Without these women the men on the O’Reilly, Ashley Madekwe, Angela Lindvall, — MARCY MEDINA

Gyllenhaal instantly enamored. Mouret wasn’t the only “It was love at first zip,” she said. designer with fancy dinner Trans-Atlantic Travels During cocktails, the plans in New York on Tuesday, a designer told friends about particularly busy day for resort MAGGIE GYLLENHAAL had a French designer’s honor. his trunk show meeting with appointments and night for serendipitous entrée to Roland “I happened to be in L.A. a dozen of the store’s clients social engagements. Further Mouret’s work. “I got asked to at the time, so I was like, ‘If earlier that afternoon. “It’s downtown, Chloé held a cocktail go to the Golden Globes very I can find a dress, I’ll do it,’” nice to see the evolution of party to toast its newish boutique last minute, like two days Gyllenhaal continued. The my woman in New York. I on Greene Street and a New York before. They lost a presenter actress dialed up then-stylist really enjoyed the feedback. visit by its British-born, Paris- or something so they asked me Leslie Fremar, also in attendance I learn from it. This is where based creative director, Clare Waight to step in,” she explained over at the dinner. “Leslie said, ‘I I learn that, for example, Keller. A smattering of socials her stemware on Tuesday night. have one dress in my hotel room for a bar mitzvah you need a were in attendance including Dree The actress was among the and I was like, ‘OK, if it fits long sleeve. Or the client will Hemingway and Phil Winser, Rachel guests gathered on the seventh me, I’ll wear it.’” The dress, a say, ‘I want a clever sleeve, Chandler Guinness and Kelly Bensimon. floor of Bergdorf Goodman in diaphanous, apricot-hued, floor- something sexier and not Following cocktails at the New York at a dinner in the grazing number from Mouret, had boring,’” Mouret said before store, a select group that fetching Zani Gugelmann a drink. included Shala Monroque, Fabiola Shala “This is where you learn things Beracasa, Leigh Lezark and Tom Monroque Phil Winser and that you can’t get from just Sachs headed to Locanda Verde Dree Hemingway being in your studio.” for more drinks and dinner. After cocktails, guests Before taking her seat, Waight adjourned to the dining room Keller offered an assessment where, over a plate of black of the new store. sea bass paired with a spring “It looks like a little bit of artichoke barigoule, cross- Paris transported over here, table chatter ranged from which is really nice,” said the debating the merits of “Girls” designer, who was gearing up to bemoaning the arduous for continued travel throughout preschool placement process. the summer. “Oh, lots of summer Gyllenhaal told tablemates of plans, as you know, the French her favorite shopping spot in love to take holidays — it’s one

eye STEVE EICHNER Brooklyn, Bird, with the actress of the perks of being in Paris.” diagramming its exact location — TAYLOR HARRIS Clare Waight Keller on a dinner napkin. AND MATTHEW LYNCH PHOTOS BY

and going to the gym.” “I like a good Margarita,” Carnival Games said “Nashville” actress Britton. “It’s a really important HARD BODIES, celebs and Watts, who wore a collared pursuit of the summer.” fashionably dressed friends of Chloé dress and carried a New “Saturday Night Live” Coach partied past sunset on New Coach clutch, mused about cast mates Aidy Bryant, Cecily York’s High Line Tuesday night. the difficulty she’s had moving Strong and Tim Robinson enjoyed A carnival-themed soiree, away from New York and back cocktails and snapped photos replete with a dunk tank, to Los Angeles. while waiting for their turn in shirtless male models, a “ Yo u miss that personal the fortune teller’s booth. contortionist and jugglers, connection with people,” she said. Kendrick talked about greeted the likes of Naomi Watts, Also wearing Chloé — a flowy, current projects and mused Katie Holmes, Zachary Quinto, one-shouldered white toga dress about her somewhat tenuous Connie Britton and Anna Kendrick. — Holmes preferred to chat relationship with fashion. Meant to kick off summer, the about her summer rituals. “If it were up to me, I party also commemorated the “I like making blueberry would literally wear purple Coach Foundation’s $5 million pies in the summer,” she said sweatpants and purple gift to the High Line, and a new from behind a pair of oversize thermals and purple socks covered passage at 30th Street tortoise-shell sunglasses. every day,” the pint-size on the walkway that will be Asked about her beauty Katie Holmes Olivia FALK EVAN actress said with a grin. “But named the Coach Passage. and fitness regime, Holmes in Chloé. Thirlby obviously I can’t.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

A fan of the High Line, deadpanned: “Blueberries… PHOTOS BY

 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Williams — and the George G21 Talents collections. Attendees included industry Posen Enters Bridal leaders and members of Parliament. FASHION SCOOPS By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG “Retail is the biggest employer of young people by sector, and the fashion MIAMI LANDING: Emilio Pucci continues distinctive, purple-veined Breccia dei industry is very important to the U.K. NEW YORK — Zac Posen will soon be giving to invest in its retail network and has Medici marble reminiscent of Palazzo economy,” said Fiona Lambert, brand brides a whirl with a wedding gown and social opened a 1,728-square-foot boutique in Pucci in Florence. — LUISA ZARGANI director of George, Asda’s in-house occasion collection exclusive to David’s Bridal. Miami’s Design District, which follows fashion clothing brand. “It accounts for The partnership marks the designer’s the unveiling of a Manhattan flagship NY STATE OF MIND: DKNY feted the launch 2.3 percent of the U.K.’s GDP. It supports debut in dressing brides, though he has in November. This is the brand’s third of its arts initiative project in London this over a million jobs, it is worth over 21 occasionally designed dresses for select location in Southern Florida. week with a Nineties style warehouse billion pounds [$33 billion] — so big friends like Coco Rocha. The Truly Zac “Florida has historically been party at a former fire station in south numbers. More than 20,000 young people Posen label will make its debut in 50 of a strategic market for us, so we’re London by the Thames. The evening, will leave colleges and universities this David’s Bridal’s 307 stores and online in especially happy to have such a hosted by Cara Delevingne, featured live year with fashion-related qualifications February. The retail chain plans to roll out unique store in this very singular performances by Rita Ora and they’re going to be looking the collection to 100 stores by the end of Iggy Azalea FOR MORE neighborhood,” said Emilio Pucci and , and the SCOOPS, SEE for secure employment. We have this year, according to Catalina Maddox, venue was filled with guests a huge responsibility to nurture executive vice president of merchandising. including Jourdan Dunn, Henry WWD.com and develop this talent they This week’s news marks the retailer’s Holland, Dominic Jones and have and nurture the future of first major announcement since former Lulu Kennedy. Set designer business leaders.” — L.M. Gap Inc. executive Pamela B. Wallack was Michael Howells refurbished named chief executive officer of David’s the abandoned fire station with beaming BEST FOOT FORWARD: Vans crowned the Bridal last month. “We brainstormed for strobe lights, brightly lit LED screens, winner of its fourth annual Vans Custom several months because we had a very suc- graffiti and water tower fixtures. Guests Culture competition at the Whitney cessful launch with Vera [Wang’s White by danced to hip-hop, sipped cosmopolitans Museum of American Art on Tuesday, Vera Wang label]. As always, we were look- and Champagne and grazed on pizza, hot flying in over 80 high school students to ing for what’s next. We were talking about dogs and pretzels. New York from the five finalist schools for dramatic red-carpet movie-star kind of The Pucci store in Miami. The arts initiative project is known the event. Over 1,500 schools participated looks, and Zac came to mind,” Maddox said. as DKNY Artworks and is a platform in the arts competition, which asked While six wedding dresses will initially president and chief executive officer for artists to reinterpret the DKNY students to create original designs on be offered in ivory, with a touch of porto- Alessandra Carra. “The new opening is an logo. In London, the brand enlisted the blank Vans sneakers along four themes: bello, the five limited-edition social occa- important step in the development of our British graffiti artist known as Roids to art, music, action sports and local flavor. sion dresses will be available in neutral business in the U.S.” In the region, the create an abstract 3-D collage of the Following a whittling down of entrants and seasonal colors. Bridal gowns will re- company has six monobrand boutiques DKNY logo, which was on display at via an online popular vote, this year’s tail from $850 to $1,350 and social occasion and the brand is carried at Bergdorf the party. — LORELEI MARFIL winning school was chosen by a panel of dresses will range from $195 to $225. Each Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth judges that included actress Emma Roberts, collection will be later be rounded out to Avenue and Nordstrom, as well as a large THE WAY TO WESTMINSTER: Britain’s designer Timo Weiland, reality star-turned- have about 10 styles. number of high-end specialty stores. House of Commons, the lower house of designer Whitney Port, artist Christian Jacobs Posen is the latest to join the designer Art Deco-era pastel and tropical Parliament, got a jolt of style earlier this and skateboarder Steve Caballero. ranks at David’s Bridal where White by Vera hues evocative of Pucci’s prints stand week with a show of emerging fashion Coming out on top this year were the Wang and Oleg Cassini are already being out on furnishings and decor in the new talent. Held by the U.K. Fashion & Textile young talents at Lakeridge High School sold. In the 12 years since he funded his venue. Brass “totems” spelling Pucci Association, Graduate Fashion Week and in Lake Oswego, Ore., who won $50,000 company House of Z, the designer has de- — an homage to props the namesake George at Asda, the show featured the five from Vans for their arts programs. At veloped various collections under the Zac founder of the brand used in one of his award winners from Graduate Fashion least one of their sneaker designs will go Posen, Zac Zac Posen and Z Spoke Zac Posen first fashion shows — mark the store, Week — Kirandeep Bassan, Thea Sanders, into production and be sold at Vans and labels, including women’s ready-to-wear, as well as high-gloss brass fixtures and Lauren Smith, Shauni Douglas and Hannah Journeys stores next year. — DAVID LIPKE furs, handbags, accessories and eyewear.

of the label flitted in be- tween the penthouse’s School Project living room and patio for the air and camera- THE DAYS leading Walker Street. [The phone-ready views of up to and just after order] had to be deliv- the Midtown skyline. college graduation are ered in a month and Hernandez continued particularly prone to a half. We had all this down Memory Lane. nostalgia. On Tuesday fabric. And we just cut. “We used to go to Sway night, Lazaro Hernandez was Every. Single. Garment. with Chloë,” Hernandez small space on the patio of Barneys Ourselves. All of our said, pausing to find Chloë New York chief executive friends from fashion Sevigny on the terrace, but officer Mark Lee’s Chelsea school came over and she was lost in a crowd apartment, indulging in it. helped us cut. It was like that also counted Jen Brill, “I don’t think we had a factory of friends. It Vanessa and Victoria Traina, time to celebrate,” he was such an awesome, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Tabitha laughed when asked to awesome time. I actually Simmons and Lissy Trullie, recall his reaction to the look back at it and think “every weekend and just news, way back when, it was the most magical dance to Morrisey, The that Barneys would pur- time of my life.” Cure, having our dark chase his and Proenza In honor of the 10th arts moment. That was Schouler partner Jack anniversary of the label, our dark moment, which McCollough’s senior col- Barneys recently reissued is why the collection was lection at Parsons The that first Proenza collec- all black. The season after New School for Design. tion and Lee was giving a that was all happy and “We had to cut the entire dinner party to celebrate. light. We were a little bi- collection ourselves.… A host of editors, assorted polar in our early days.” We were in our loft on fashion folk and friends — M.L. Big

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. Business

WWD Marketplace is the premier destination for the industry’s classified and career listings. 800.423.3314 Victoria Traina, Lazaro Hernandez, Jack McCollough and wwd.com/marketplace Vanessa Traina. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY

12 WWD friday, june 14, 2013 WWD.COM PVH Puts Focus on’’ Calvin Klein Jeans Turnaround planning to downsize the retail foot- said. “There is too much in the off-price the same product,” Chirico said. By ARNOLD J. KARR and print in Europe over the next 18 months channel or in the club channel compared PVH shares surged Thursday, rising VICKI M. YOUNG by closing 25 to 35 Calvin Klein Jeans to the regular-price channel with jeans $11.32, or 10.2 percent, to close at $122.60 stores in Europe. Prior to its acquisition only. On balance, the Calvin Klein brand after it comfortably beat first-quarter earn- PVH CORP. is decentralizing the design by PVH, Warnaco operated 100 stores is very well distributed to department ings expectations. Its net loss for the three functions of Calvin Klein Jeans and clean- under the Calvin Klein Jeans banner, stores throughout the world, but in the months ended May 5 was $20.1 million, or ing up its distribution as the company seeks 55 of which were classified as full-price jeans category, we’re overpenetrated 25 cents a share. Excluding acquisition- to return the division to acceptable levels of and the remaining 45 as off-price. in the off-price channel and we need to and integration-related costs, adjusted profitability in the U.S. and Europe. Expanding on the jeanswear situation bring that into balance over time.” earnings per share were $1.91, 56 cents In separate comments Thursday at during his comments at the Piper confer- As that balance is sought, PVH will above analysts’ expectations. Revenues the Piper Jaffray Annual Consumer ence, Chirico said the jeans businesses establish regional design hubs to tailor rose 33.8 percent, to $1.91 billion, and were Conference in New York and on a call to essentially flat when contributions from discuss first-quarter results reported late the Warnaco acquisition were excluded. Wednesday, Emanuel Chirico, chairman Also at Piper Jaffray, Michael Koppel, and chief executive officer of PVH, noted On balance, the Calvin Klein brand is very well executive vice president and chief finan- that jeanswear was “the only difficult cial officer of Nordstrom Inc., said the business” within the Calvin Klein brand. distributed to department stores throughout company had used its Fashion Rewards On the call, he said Calvin Klein loyalty program, tied to its private label Underwear, acquired along with the Klein the world, but in the jeans category, we’re debit or credit card and a co-branded jeans business as part of its purchase of Visa card, to build its customer base. Warnaco Group Inc. for $2.9 billion in overpenetrated in the off-price channel. The firm lowered the spending levels February, is “profitable” and “working well.” needed to qualify for certain benefits and While the Calvin Klein business last year gave Fashion Rewards members overall exceeded sales and profit ex- — EmanuEl ChiriCo, PVh CorP. early access to the stores’ legendary anni- pectations in the first quarter, the jeans versary sales, which resulted in the open- business under the designer brand has are currently operating “500 to 600 basis jeanswear products to local markets. ing of over one million new accounts. been unprofitable in North America and points” below the operating margins to be “We’re just trying to bring the Warnaco The company also began providing Europe, with sales continuing to trend expected. “So in Europe it’s a business jeans — the Calvin Klein Jeans business Fashion Rewards membership to custom- downward. “We are not looking for any that’s losing money and in North America — into a model that’s consistent with the ers of its Rack operation last year, some- significant improvement in the trends of it’s profitable, but at lower rates,” he said. way we’ve operated” in other elements of thing it hadn’t done previously. that business through…fiscal 2013,” he He said that changes made since the PVH’s owned and licensed Calvin Klein “Rack has been such a great growth vehi- told analysts on the call. Warnaco acquisition have been well re- businesses, he said. cle for us, and it also is a channel that tends While PVH takes a long look at Calvin ceived by PVH’s retail accounts but won’t One element of the challenge is that to attract a younger customer,” Koppel said. Klein Jeans’ distribution in the U.S., have a substantial impact on the jeans Calvin Klein Jeans generally sell at $100 The company is currently testing a which the group considers weighted unit’s performance this year. “The sales and above in Europe and Asia, versus $50 loyalty program in the cosmetics area, too heavily toward off-price stores, it’s distribution mix is out of balance,” he to $90 in North America. “So it can’t be the cfo added.

a new discovery in science. All of these sojourn in Oscar de la Renta’s’’ studio rating, on WNET, according to Nielsen conversations are driven by my curiosity this past February, where he was a data provided by the station. That was MeMo pad about the world we live in and the “designer in residence.” well above Rose’s average for the past human condition,” Rose said. “The collection was quite under six months, which has been a little While Galliano at times appeared way. At first, I was — I just couldn’t, under 10,000 less. The national ratings GALLIANO ON TV: John Galliano’s highly disarmingly vulnerable and forthright, because I hadn’t been in the studio for won’t be available for about two weeks. anticipated appearance on “Charlie at others he resorted to the self-help two years. So, I ran to the bathroom — ERIk MAzA Rose,” his first televised interview language typical of rehabilitation and threw myself on my knees and since an anti-Semitic rant two years ago programs. “Sobriety is not easy, Charlie. then I came outside and I went into the MODEL LAW: It’s about to get a little more derailed his career, aired Wednesday It’s been a difficult journey,” he said at workroom and introduced myself to all complicated for fashion brands hoping night on public television. one point. Rose returned with probing those lovely ladies — the tailors and the to use models under the age of 18 during The hourlong interview covered a follow-ups that at least demanded seamstresses in their white coats. And New York Fashion Week. Both houses range of subjects, including Galliano’s clearer answers. Rose suggested there then it was fine. My shoulders kind of of the New York State legislature late childhood in South London and his are alcoholics who don’t turn to racist relaxed,” he said. Wednesday passed new labor laws meteoric rise to the top of the fashion language when they’re incapacitated, so De la Renta was partly responsible aimed at protecting child models. world at Dior, but focused largely on his where did Galliano’s come from? for suggesting the Rose interview, but The legislation, which essentially substance abuse and the events that led “I’ve spent two years and three the designer singled out two influential affords underage models the same to his fall. months in — you know, followed by figures with helping his rehabilitation — protection as other child performers, After host Charlie Rose replayed the therapists, working with top theologists Jonathan Newhouse, president of Condé will be presented to Gov. Andrew Cuomo now infamous video clip of Galliano and professors in France to find the Nast International, and Anna Wintour, to be signed in the next few weeks. verbally assaulting patrons at a Parisian answer. It’s true many people say, ‘In the editor in chief of Vogue and Condé When signed, employers such as bar with racist slurs, the designer artistic director. fashion brands, fashion publications again expressed remorse and tried to Two men who and advertisers must abide by a host explain his actions. While not excusing have maintained of regulations, including adhering to his behavior, Galliano attributed the their distance from restricted work hours that require outburst to addiction to prescription Galliano in the breaks and meals. pills and alcoholism, which he described last two years are Models won’t be able to work past as “a cunning, baffling disease,” and his former bosses, midnight on school nights and they won’t bullying from his childhood. Bernard Arnault, be able to return to work less than 12 “I just saw that footage you showed chairman and chief hours after they have left. and it threw me quite. At that point executive officer That will likely pose a problem s B

in my career I had become what is p of LVMH Moët during fashion week, noted Susan Scafidi,

known as a blackout drinker,” Galliano ose/ Hennessy Louis academic director of Fordham’s Fashion said. “I discovered that when one is Vuitton, and Sidney Law Institute. “It will be crazy difficult,” a blackout drinker, what happens is Toledano, Christian she said, adding that fashion houses that you can — it can release paranoia Dior’s ceo. had better apply for permits now if they of such a stage that it can trigger “I did try to are hoping to use models under 18 on frustrations from childhood.” reach out to them runways come September. Galliano appeared before Rose clean- but my calls were The law will also provide that shaven, his hair neatly pulled back into not accepted. And models are allotted study time, tutors a ponytail, wearing a simple Yves Saint John Galliano talks with Charlie Rose. quite recently I and a space for instruction. If a model Charlieof r photo Courtesy Laurent suit, a look that would not have tried to reach out is under 16, a “responsible person” seemed out of place at an arraignment. vino veritas.’ I’ve since discovered that as well, but the message I got was that must be designated to monitor the The interview, which follows an in- ‘In vino veritas’ is not quite — it’s not perhaps it was too early,” Galliano said. activity and safety of the minor, depth profile in Vanity Fair that covers quite as simple as that. Yes, alcohol does The designer, of course, is in the middle according to the legislation. much of the same ground, is part of loosen up inhibitions, and it’s what’s of a legal spat with LVMH over the Additionally, 15 percent of the child Galliano’s attempt to stage a comeback. floating around in the self-conscious that termination of his contract. model’s earnings must be transferred Though many news outlets pursued the can be called out,” Galliano responded. The one question Galliano himself into a separate, restricted bank first interview with Galliano, as his story Asked about criticism that his couldn’t answer was about the account, which must be set up by the had received tremendous international alcoholism had lowered the quality of possibility that he might again be model’s parent or guardian. If the law attention, Rose introduced the segment the collections, Galliano said, “The sales entrusted with a fashion label. is broken, the employer will be fined with a seemingly preemptive defense were still good.” “I really don’t know the answer to $1,000 for the first violation, and that of any suggestions he might be party to “In my mind, I could always do much that. I mean, I’m able to create. I’m total will increase by $1,000 for every anyone’s spin. better. And especially now, in my lucid ready to create. I’m feeling fit. I’m subsequent violation. “Last night on this program, I did two state, yes, I mean, of course it could be feeling good. It really all depends on Scafidi underscored that the “biggest” segments, one on the demonstrations much, much better. I was doing what these steps I’m taking. And I mean, I impact that this law may have is that on Turkey, another on surveillance I felt was right for the two houses,” hope that through my atonement that I’ll older models may now get more work. of Americans by the United States Galliano said, referencing Dior as well be given a second chance,” he said. “And that wouldn’t be a bad thing,” she government. Another night we might as his namesake label. Viewers tuned in — the program was said. “Models careers are very short.” talk to a brilliant director or celebrate He also recounted to Rose his seen by some 41,000 viewers, or a 0.5 — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

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