<<

Extension Bulletin E-1657 October 1982 Hints on Growing

Louella J. Nelson and William H. Carlson Department of

Introduction — Large — Hybrids of crosses between The is a flowering — Usually the first tulips to ap- Darwin and Due van Tol with a wide range of shapes and col- pear in the spring Triumph ors. Tulips are classified according to Double early — Stems up to 20 inches their form and time of bloom, and — 6-12 inch sturdy stems with — Hybrids of single early and with proper selection, blooms may flowers up to 4 inches in diam- late-flowering types appear over a period of six-to-eight eter Darwin weeks. — Many with long-lasting — Stems up to 30 inches double flowers — Among the largest of all tulips Common Classes Mid-Season Flowering Late Flowering Early Flowering Mendel Darwin Single early — Stems up to 20 inches — Stems 22-30 inches — 10-16 inch stems — Single flowers — Large oval-shaped blooms which are squarish at the base gether) should be firm and solid. dig an area large enough for an entire Lily-flowered Loose tunics (skins) will not affect de- bulb cluster. Place base of bulb ap- — Single narrow blooms with velopment. Generally, larger proximately 6 inches from soil sur- pointed petals resembling a mean larger flowers. face; 8-12 inches in sandy soil. lily Whether you obtain your bulbs by 4-6 inches apart, firming the soil Cottage mail or from your local garden center, around bulbs. Cover with soil. — Long oval blooms with plant them as soon as possible. pointed segments Otherwise, store them in a cool place After Planting — Related to tulips found in old (60°F) in an open paper bag — bulbs Immediately after planting, water English and French gardens require ventilation to remain viable. thoroughly. Saturation is necessary Handle bulbs carefully at all times — Rembrandt in order for bulbs to begin strong, a tulip bulb is never dormant. — Mutated Darwin tulip early root formation for optimal — Red, white or yellow back- spring bloom. This initial watering ground with stripes or spots When to Plant should provide adequate moisture through the winter. However, water Parrot Plant bulbs from late September to early December, depending on loca- your bulbs if there is an extended dry — Stems 20-22 inches spell to replenish natural moisture. — Fringed and ruffled blooms tion. Plant before deep frost hardens In cold areas, after the frost has — Can be striped or marked with the ground, but make sure cool wea- penetrated 1-2 inches, cover bulb other colors ther has set in so that bulbs don't begin to grow in the fall. beds with a 3-inch mulch of , Double late peat moss, straw or evergreen — Stems to 24 inches boughs. — Orange, yellow, rose or white Where to Plant blooms Tulips can be planted anywhere in In the Spring your garden, along borders or ter- — Form resembles a peony Remove mulch in the spring before races, around a fence or tree. For the Tulips shoots develop more than an inch or most dramatic color effect, plant in Includes varieties and hybrids of: two. clusters of 10-25 bulbs of the same Flowers should be cut when petals Tulipa fosterana variety. begin to drop or they will go to , — 4-inch blossoms on 8-20 inch Tulips need full sun or light shade depleting food needed to form a new stems in Zones 4 and 5 (Michi- bulb the following season. — Early bloomer gan, Indiana, Ohio area), but will Do not remove the foliage until it is — Leaves sometimes mottled or perform better in partial shade in yellow, limp and can be easily pulled striped Hardiness Zones 6 and 7 (states to the free. If space is required for other Tulipa greggii south of , Ohio, Indiana). once flowers have bloomed, — Thick 8-12 inch stem Bulbs planted in shady areas will plant flowers in among stems of the — Long lasting late bloomer grow taller and last longer. Plant tulips to provide color for the remain- — Blooms striped or mottled on a bulbs away from the house where soil der of the season. Most bulbs can be scarlet or yellow background tends to be cooler to avoid early flow- left undisturbed for a 3-to-5 year — Leaves always mottled or ering. striped period. (waterlily tulip) Preparing to Plant Harvesting and Storing — 4-8 inch stems Plant bulbs in a well drained soil; If bulbs are to be dug up for reuse — Early bloomer with pointed for clay soil, add peat or vermiculite; next season, dig them when leaves petals for sandy soil, add peat or compost. turn yellow. Remove loose soil and — Mottled leaves on some cul- Before planting bulbs, work the soil dry them for about one week in a tivars thoroughly to a depth of 12-18 inches. shady, protected area with adequate Before planting, fertilize the soil. ventilation. Then remove any re- Choose 10-10-10 all-purpose fer- maining soil and dust with a fungicide tilizer applied at the rate of 2 pounds to control rot and other diseases. Selecting Bulbs per 100 square feet. To prevent drying out, store bulbs Select quality bulbs which are in dry peat moss, perlite, vermiculite heavy, firm and free from soft spots or sand in a porous bag or shallow and deep blemishes. The basal plate Planting Your Bulbs tray. Store them in a cool (35°-50°F), (a modified stem from which the roots There are two approaches to plant- dry, well-ventilated area for replant- emerge and which holds the scales to- ing: either dig a hole for each bulb, or ing in the fall. Diseases — Reduced plant size and vigor — Lack of growth In general, preventative care is the with production of fewer bul- Control best method to control diseases and bils — Spray plants with Malathion or pests. Practice sanitation by remov- Control Diazinon at recommended ing weeds and rubbish. Spray grow- — Remove and destroy diseased rates. ing plants as needed for protection plants as soon as they appear. — Destroy badly infested bulbs. against both diseases and insects. — Use Malathion at recom- Botrytis Blight (Tulip Fire) mended rates to control Other aphids which transmit the Symptoms Gophers and Other Ground Dwell- — Appearance of scattered ing Animals stunted plants that emerge Damage with twisted, tightly rolled Insects — Eat bulbs blighted leaves in the spring Tulip Bulb Aphid — grey to yellow- Control — Yellowish-white spots sur- white insects 1/10-inch long build — Plant in raised beds or con- rounded by water-soaked up on bulbs in storage tainers. areas on the leaves, stems and Symptoms — Set traps. flowers — Curled or twisted leaves — Plant bulbs in underground — Leaves and flowers become — Yellowing of foliage slimy and collapse baskets constructed of 1-inch Damage or smaller wire mesh. — Gray, fuzzy mold on plants — Spread of virus disease Slugs and Snails Control — Honeydew secretion attracts Damage — Purchase only the largest, ants — Holes in leaves blemish- and disease-free Control — Young shoots eaten bulbs available. — Dust with Malathion prior to — Dig bulbs in dry weather and storage or — Slime trails not later than three weeks — Wash aphids off with garden Control after petals have fallen. Re- hose before storage. — Set out snail and slug bait move stems. Always handle when first shoots emerge. Tulip Aphid — clusters of green bulbs with care. — Examine all bulbs carefully insects 1/16-inch long occur on Tulips as stems and leaves; overwinter on before storage and again be- Pick tulips when buds are fully bulbs and move to foliage after fore planting. Discard all elongated prior to opening. The planting bulbs which are cut, bruised will last up to a week. Cut Symptoms or diseased. tulips turn toward the light so rotate — Feeding kills foliage — Apply either Botran or Be- the vase a quarter turn each day to nomyl fungicide as a soil — Prevents flower opening maintain an attractive arrangement. drench at planting time and Control just before emergence at rec- — Spray foliage when aphids ap- ommended rates. pear with Malathion, Diazi- Suggested References Tulip Break (Virus Disease) non or Orthene at recom- McNair, James. 1981. All About Symptoms mended rates. Bulbs, Ortho Books. Wentzell, G. K. 1979. How to — Variegated flowers, and leaves Mites Grow Bulbs, Sunset Books. become striped with lighter Symptoms green or white — Speckled leaves MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY MSU is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Institution. Cooperative Extension Service programs are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, or sex. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Gordon E. Guyer, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Michigan State University, E. Lansing, Ml 48824. This information is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement COOPERATIVE by the Cooperative Extension Service or bias against those not mentioned. This bulletin becomes public property upon publication and may be reprinted verbatim as a separate or within another publication with credit to MSU. Reprinting cannot be used to EXTENSION endorse or advertise a commercial product or company. SERVICE lP-10M-10:82-tcm-JP, Price 20 cents. Single copy free to Michigan residents. File 26.21