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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EPRA International Journal of Socio-Economic and Environmental Outlook (SEEO) ISSN: 2348-4101 Volume: 8 | Issue: 3| March 2021 | SJIF Impact Factor (2021): 7.426 | Journal DOI: 10.36713/epra0314 | Peer-Reviewed Journal THE TRADITIONS OF CARPET WEAVING IN THE SOUTHERN REGIONS OF UZBEKISTAN Davlatova Saodat Tilovberdiyevna Doctor of Science Of the National University of Uzbekistan, The Head of the «Applied Ethnology» laboratory Abdukodirov Sarvar Begimkulovich, Teacher of Jizzakh State Pedagogical University, Tashkent, Uzbekistan ANNOTATION In the article is enlightened local features of traditions of the Uzbek carpet weaving on examples of samples from southern regions (Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya regions) of Uzbekistan. Also, are shown distinctive features in the processes of preparing raw materials and weaving machines, including the dyeing process of yarns, and are also described types of carpets and their features. KEY WORDS: carpet weaving, craft, loom, types of carpets, wool, carpet products DISCUSSION At the end of the 19th century and at the Carpet weaving is a long developed rare beginning of the 20th century the main raw material type of textile, it has been continuing its traditions of carpet weaving was sheep wool. The carpet for ages[4]. Mainly women deal with carpet weaving weavers of the southern regions almost didn’t use the and they knit many household furnishings, felt rugs, wool brought from Russia. But, there is information felts, carpets and other carpet products. about that they used the products brought from Carpet weaving is basically tightly Afghanistan, Iran and Eastern Turkistan[14]. connected with livestock, it is developed in Andijan, On the carpets of Kashkadarya the Samarkand, Kashkadarya, Surkhandarya, Bukhara traditions of carpet weaving of desert livestock cities of Uzbekistan and lowlands of Amudarya and breeder tribes are seen. In the carpet weaving of the is still continuing in the present days too. oasis mainly geometric designs and partially plant- Particularly, the southern regions of Uzbekistan like designs were used. The carpet weaving, whose (Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya regions) are main raw material was sheep, goat and camel wool, distinctive as the ancient and unique ethnographic was widely spread among the nomadic tribes area. In these regions this craft is the women (Turkmen, Arabian, Qungirot, Saroy and mangit manufacture, and the carpet weavers have different tribes of Uzbek), they include western and central techniques of knitting woolly and non-woolly part of Kashkadarya (Muborak, Dekhqonobod, carpets[13]. Chirokchi, Guzor and Kamashi). The nomadic Uzbek tribes Qungirot, Turkmen and Arabian tribes who WAYS OF CARPET WEAVING lived in Muborak and Dekhqonobod districts in the Carpets were weaved mainly from local western and south-west of the region widely used the wool and cotton painted in natural paints, and rarely carpet products[16]. In the oasis of Surkhandarya they were knitted from silk at home. Goat wool, goat wool was highly demanded, local craftsmen camel wool, cotton and silk threads were used in made different things from it such as carpet, felt, carpet weaving as supplementary products. saddlebags, sacks, rope, cloths and also made boots, mahsi (sole and heelless leather boots worn with 2021 EPRA SEEO | www.eprajournals.com | Journal DOI URL: https://doi.org/10.36713/epra0314 12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EPRA International Journal of Socio-Economic and Environmental Outlook (SEEO) ISSN: 2348-4101 Volume: 8 | Issue: 3| March 2021 | SJIF Impact Factor (2021): 7.426 | Journal DOI: 10.36713/epra0314 | Peer-Reviewed Journal overshoes), overshoes, mesh (a large skin for storing estimated, because the wool of a thin sheep was dry water), airbag, cholvar, belt from sheep skin. Carpets and easily severed and was not fatty[17]. Before were weaved in different forms according to the size cutting the wool of the sheep, they were washed of yurts, huts or rooms, in different designs such as in several times in order to take high quality wool. For handasaviy design, with lily flower, wide border and example, in Surkhandarya the wools cut from August with the picture of horned deer. Because of natural 20 to September 10 were widely used for carpet polishing the carpets didn’t lose their quality for a weaving[14]. long time. But because the wool is not tough for rain The carpet weavers used the herd wool and high temperature, ancient types of carpets didn’t because it is shining, elastistic and less work remain. demanding and for taking more products as well[17]. The livestock breeder Arabians and And very rarely they used the unwashed sheep wool. Turkmen living in the southern oasis, the deserts of The wool was washed in cold water in big sheds. The Karshi lived in Kamashi, Jeynov and Chirokchi wool was soaked for sometime in the water and districts and they are still continuing the traditions of squeezed by rubbing well. After that the wool was carpet weaving even now. The articles of carpet dried in the sun. The process of washing the wool weaving may include bazaar gilam(market carpet), was different, the Kashkadarya Arabians, the qiz gilam (daughter carpet), julkhirs, Arabian, qoqma Turkmen girls (carpet weavers) living on the (beaten),wool, and rugs, the carpets, saddlebags and Amudarya coast didn’t do the first washing, they sacks in which different things are put. Moreover, washed the ready products, that is the spun thread the city of Karshi is one of the places where carpet only. In Surkhandarya too the wool cut from sheep weaving is the most developed in Central Asia. was washed well and separated into fibers, and The carpets of southern regions belonging to beaten with a stick[12]. the beginning of the 19th-20th centuries are distinctive Carpet weaving began first of all with with their high quality and different designs. washing the wool, after washing it was combed with Particularly, Muborak district of Kashkadarya (the a wool-comb, separated into fibers and spun by a village of Geolog, Jaynay), Karshi city (the village of spinning machine. First the wool thread was put into Shoykhuja), Dekhqonobod (Oqyirtma village), salty water, and then it was boiled and removed its Koson (Oqtepa, Jizzali, Obron villages), Kasbi (the poison. Because the threads were boiled in salty centre of Kasbi), Chiroqchi (Madaniyat, Chiyali water, they were distinctive with their strength and villages),Yakkabog (Qorasuv and Gurjob villages), durability. After the wool threads were boiled, they Kitob (Doniyorshaykh, Varganza, Qurama, Chirkay were dried[3]. After the threads had dried well, they and Urus villages), Shakhrisabz (Dung, Avaz, Malik, were washed in clean water again and put into dough Shombi, Ovul, Uchuyli, Miroqi, Palandara, mixture in order to be strong and durable. Because Narimonov, Hazrati Bashir and other villages) are the making the wool ready was done by hand, it badly main centres of carpet weaving[15]. In these places affected on the hands of people and caused many today the traditional ways of carpet weaving as well different skin diseases. Furthermore, when women as local features of modern designing and technology used the wool threads their hands turned red, the skin is developing in a particular way. of their hands was peeled out and became calloused, The necessary devices for carpet weaving and sometimes it brought different allergic diseases were small, comfortable and easy to install as of skin as well. That’s why the thread was boiled in well[17]. On the devices the threads are strung 40 sm salty water and removed its poison. Sometimes some for length and width. flour was added into the water and boiled and then Usually, sheep wool and sometimes cotton the thread was put into the mixture of flour and kept thread is used for carpet weaving. For one carpet up for about 2 or 3 hours[12; 2]. to 8-12 kg raw material is needed. The wool taken Combing the wool was the main process of from sheep in spring must be of high quality. the work, it was carried out by separating, combing, According to the reporters, a good carpet can not be piling by its length etc. This all was done by a single made from the autumn wool[17]. Because the complex device of combing. The combing device difference between spring and autumn wool is that consisted of two raw iron teeth placed in a sharp the spring wool is long and soft, comfortable for angle to each other; it was installed on a wood. Such knitting, more shining and less flexible, that is while comb was often used by Turkmenistan carpet knitting it less becomes crossbred or mix together. weavers. In some places of Uzbekistan and in the The autumn wool is hard and rough, and mainly used southern districts of Kirgizistan the comb was rarely for pressing felt. The sheep, whose wool is the main used. Instead of the comb in Uzbekistan and southern raw material for carpet weaving, were separately fed Kirgizistan the wool was beaten by hand or by a stick with attention before cutting their wool. It helped the while washing. The Arabians of Karshi didn’t comb sheep to be fed well and the wool to be of high the wool, but they spun it separating into pieces. In quality. According to this the quality of wool was Surkhandarya too the wool was combed mainly by a 2021 EPRA SEEO | www.eprajournals.com | Journal DOI URL: https://doi.org/10.36713/epra0314 13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EPRA International Journal of Socio-Economic and Environmental Outlook (SEEO) ISSN: 2348-4101 Volume: 8 | Issue: 3| March 2021 | SJIF Impact Factor (2021): 7.426 | Journal DOI: 10.36713/epra0314 | Peer-Reviewed Journal comb. The combed wool was spun by a spindle[12]. Kungirot women weaved carpets in the local way in The wool spun by spindle was winded in skeins and summers.

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