862 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

88 Temples of Shikoku 613, air travel 840, 841-2 Arashiyama Bamboo Grove art museums & galleries, 617, 623, 631, 614-15 Aizu-Wakamatsu 477-80 15, 301-2, 15, 362 see also art, art festivals, Aka-jima 744-5 archaeological sites & artists, crafts & folk art museums Akan National Park 544, museums A Hida Folk Archaeological 21_21 Design Sight 77 Abashiri 590-2 597-602, 598-9 Akanko Onsen 599-605 Museum 219 21st Century Museum of Abe Shinzō 763 Contemporary Art 260 AKB48 93 Jōmon era 502, 699 accommodation 60-1, 812-14, kofun 387, 390-91, 437, 3331 Arts Chiyoda 92 826-8 Akita 518-20, 519 710, 765 Adachi Museum of Art 466 capsule hotels 827 Akita Prefecture 512-20, Nara Prefecture Kashihara Akita Museum of Art 518 Chiiori 619 514 Archaeological Museum Anno Art Museum 451 cycling terminals 826 Akiu Onsen 488 390 Aomori Museum of Art 502 etiquette 813 Akiyoshi-dai 450-1 Saitobaru Archaeological Art House Project 444, 21 long-term rentals 107 Amami Islands 731-6 Museum 710 Asakura Chōso Museum 99 love hotels 109, 827-8 Amami-Ōshima 731-3, 732 Saitobaru Burial Mounds BankART Studio NYK 186 manga kissa 61, 129 Amanohashidate 410 Park 710 Benesse House Museum minshuku 814 710, 712, 764 Sannai Maruyama Site 502 444 nōka minshuku 517 Ambe, Noriko 802 Uenohara Jomon-no-mori Chichū Art Museum 444 prices 827 amusement parks 699 Design Festa 86 Fuji-Q Highland 154 ryokan 12, 812-14, 13 archery 453, 704 Fukuoka Art Museum 651 Tokyo Disney Resort 104 shukubō 814 architecture 20, 31, 808-11 Fukuoka Asian Art Tokyo Joypolis 104 activities 32-5, see also gasshō-zukuri 219 Museum 651 individual activities Universal Studios Naka Incineration Plant Ginza Graphic Gallery 76 addresses 828 345-6 415 Hagi Uragami Museum 459 Aikawa 535 animals 822, see also Tokyo 135 Hakone Museum of Art 172 Ainu people 540, 541, 569, individual species vine bridges 620 Hakone Open-Air Museum 599, see also Ainu anime 807, 808 architecture museums 172 museums Ghibli Museum 87 Matsumoto Open-air Hatakeyama Collection 82 cuisine 601 Hayao, Miyazaki 87, 762, Architectural Museum Hayashibara Museum of festivals 574, 582 807, 808 251 Art 433 villages 600 Mandarake Complex 137 Museum Meiji-mura Hida Takayama Museum Tokyo Anime Center Akiba Ainu museums 215 of Art 220-1 Info 92 Ainu Association of Open-Air Museum of Old Hiroshima Prefectural Art Aomori 502-5, Hokkaidō 549 504 Japanese Farmhouses Museum 417 climate 474 Ainu Folklore Museum 345 Hokkaidō Museum of 600 sleeper train 505 area codes 25 Modern Art 549 Hakodate Museum of Aomori Prefecture 502-12, Arita 664-5 Ikeda Museum of 20th Northern Peoples 558 503 pottery 662 Century Art 175 Hokkaidō Museum of Aoni Onsen 511 art 800-2, see also art Ikuo Hirayama Museum Northern Peoples 591 Aoshima 708-9 festivals, art museums & of Art 431 Kawamura Kaneto Ainu aquariums galleries, artists International Design Memorial Hall 574 Kagoshima City Aquarium websites 804 Centre Nagoya 205 Museum of Ainu Folklore 696 art festivals Ishikawa Prefectural Art 598 Okinawa Chiraumi Design Festa 106 Museum 264 Aquarium 743 Echigo-Tsumari Art Field Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Map Pages 000 Osaka Aquarium 343-4 537 Art Museum 271 Photo Pages 000 Shimonoseki Kaikyō-kan Echigo-Tsumari Itchiku Kubota Art 455 Triennale 537 Museum 154 863 Kagoshima City Museum Tokugawa Art Museum baseball bonsai 243 of Art 696 204 Fukuoka 654 books 762, see also Katsushika Hokusai Art Tokyo Gallery 76 Hiroshima 420 literature Museum 451 Tokyo Metropolitan Nagoya 209 food & drink 786, 788, 797 Key Hiraga Museum Museum of Art 99 Sapporo 550 Hiroshima 421 169-70 Tokyo Metropolitan Tokyo 91, 132 history 770, 778

Kojima Torajirō Memorial Museum of INDEX Bashō, Matsuo 474, 492, novels 470, 773 Hall 438 Photography 80 494, 526 onsen 815 Kutaniyaki Art Museum Tokyo Metropolitan Teien bathhouses, see sentō Tale of Genji 375, 767, 273 Art Museum 81 beaches 31, 721 768, 805  A Kyoto Municipal Museum Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial - breweries 759  B of Art 298 Art Museum 86 Aka-jima 744-5 beer 189, 555, 562, 592 Lee Ufan Museum 444 ‘Umi’ Museum of Amami-Ōshima 731 miso 516 Matsumoto City Museum Contemporary Art 242 Cape Shijiki 678 of Art 251 Utsukushi-ga-hara Open Habushi-ura 183 sake 155, 367, 425, 437, 573-4 MOA Museum of Art 174 Air Museum 251-2 Issō-kaisuiyokujō 726 soy sauce 516 Mori Art Museum 76 Watari Museum of John Beach 197 Contemporary Art British arrival 677 Musée Tomo 77 Kabari-wan 751 (Watari-Um) 86 Buddhism 783-4 Museum of Katsura-hama 624 Yamaguchi Prefectural Contemporary Art Koigaura Beach 710 Daishi, Kōbō 424, 447, Art Museum 448 606, 621, 623 (Hiroshima) 417 Makidani 473 Yamatane Museum of festivals 237, 523 Museum of Miya-no-hama 197 Art 80 introduction of 765, Contemporary Art, Nagahama-kaigan 730 Yokohama Museum of 766, 770 Tokyo (MOT) 102 Nagata Inaka-hama 726 Art 184 sokushinbutsu 525 Museum of Oriental Nakanoshima Beach 750 Ceramics 340-1 Yumeji Art Museum 433 Buddhist temples, see also Nishihama 759 Nagasaki Prefectural Art artists individual temples Ōgi-ike 197 Museum 669 Hiraga, Key 169-71 88 Temples of Shikoku Ōhama beach 180 Nagoya/Boston Museum Hirayama, Ikuo 431 613, 617, 623, 631, of Fine Arts 205 Hokusai 243 Ohkinohama 629 614-15 Naramachi Matsumoto, Leiji 412 Okidomari Kaihin-kōen Aomori Prefecture 509 Monogatari-kan 384 Mitsumasa, Anno 451 734 Ehime Prefecture 634 Narukawa Art Museum Murakami, Takashi 802 Shirara-hama 400 Fukuoka Prefecture 174 Noguchi, Isamu 646 So-bama 534 651, 661 National Art Center Ogiwara, Rokuzan 257 Southwest Islands 721 Hida District 220 Tokyo 77 Sakai, Yoshie 802 Sunset Beach 751 Hiroshima & around National Museum of Art, 422-3, 427 Asahidake Onsen 578-81 Takesaki-kaigan 730 Osaka 341 273 Asahikawa 573-5 Toguchi-no-hama 750 National Museum of Iwate Prefecture 494, 495 Ashi-no-ko 173 Tsuri-hama 197 Modern Art (Kyoto) Uradome 473 Izu Peninsula 177-8 298 Ashizuri Cape 628-9 Wai Beach 198 Kamakura 190-3 National Museum of Aso-gogaku 687-9 Yonehara Beach 751 Kii Peninsula 395-7 Modern Art (MOMAT) Aso-san 687-91, 688 bears 476, 544, 595, 605, Kitayama Area 306-7 91 Asuka 391 822 Kunisaki Peninsula 720 National Museum of Atami 174-5 Western Art 97 beer 121, 797 Kyoto 281-3, 286-7, ATMs 832-3, 834 289-90, 293-5, Neiraku Art Museum 379 breweries 189, 555, atomic bomb sites 562, 592 299-302, 301, 303, Nezu Museum 86 Hiroshima 414-15 festivals 189, 551 304, 305, 308 Ōhara Museum of Art 438 Nagasaki 665-8, 666 museums 80 Miyagi Prefecture 489, Onomichi City Museum 490 atomic bombings 668 Beppu 712-18, 713, 715, of Art 428 Prefecture autumn foliage 821 716 POLA Museum of Art 172 237, 249 Awa-odori Matsuri 34, 610 Bessho Onsen 249 Rokuzan Bijutsukan 257 Nagoya & around 205, Azumino 257-8 bicycle travel, see cycling Shimada Museum of 216 Art 682 Biei 575 Nara & around 379, 381, Shimane Prefectural Art B Bise 743 387-90, 391-2, 392-3 Museum 464-5 bamboo 15, 301-2, 15 Bizan 607 Niigata Prefecture 533 Shiseido Gallery 76 Bandai Plateau 480-3, Bizen 436 Nikkō 160 Studio Allan West 99 482 Blakiston Line 544 Osaka 343 Takai Kōzan Kinenkan 243 Bandai-Asahi National Blakiston’s fish owl 544, 822 Shiga Prefecture 373, 376 Takamatsu City Museum Park 476 boat travel 841, 843 Tokushima Prefecture of Art 643 Bandai-san 480 Bonin flying fox 198 613, 621 864 Buddhist temples continued Kumamoto 683 Chiiori 619 courses Tokyo 79, 82, 99-100 Kyoto 288 children, travel with 53-4 cooking 104, 309, 717, Yaeyama Islands 751 Matsue 463 Tokyo 106 799 Yamagata Prefecture 526 Matsumae 559 Chiran 701-2 culture 309 Yamaguchi & around Matsumoto 250 Chishima Retto 603 food models 217 460-1 Matsuyama 634 Chōkoku-no-Mori 172-3 ikebana 105 INDEX INDEX budget travel 60-1 Nagoya 204 Chōmon-kyō 454 minsā weaving 748 budgeting 25, 27 Naha 739 Christianity 669, 692 paper making 625 bullet trains 847 Okayama 433 Christian Century 650, pottery 461, 524 B-C bullfighting 630 Osaka 339, 14 665, 772 skiing 539  yamabushi 523 bunraku 354, 607-10, 804 Shimabara 680-1 Hirado Christian  bus travel 843-4 Takamatsu 643 Museum 678 zazen 191 local buses 846 Tsuwano 451 churches crafts 261, see also crafts & folk art museums, business hours 25, 834 Uwajima 630 Catholic Church 451 Chapel of St Maria 453 lacquerware, pottery, butoh 805 cathedrals, see churches ukiyo-e Byōdō-in 305 caves Ōura Catholic Church 671 craft & folk art museums, Akiyoshi-dō 450-1 see also art museums Russian Orthodox Ama-no-Yasukawara & galleries, crafts, Church 558 C 710-11 lacquerware, pottery, calligraphy 800 St Francis Xavier Dōgashima 181 ukiyo-e camping 826 Memorial Church 447 Fugaku Wind Cave 156 Akarenga-kan Museum canoeing, see also Urakami Cathedral 667 518 Narusawa Ice Cave 156 kayaking, sea kayaking Chūzen-ji Onsen 163-4 Arimatsu Tie-dyeing Ryūga-dō 623-4 Kushiro Wetlands cinemas, see also films, Museum 212 Shōryū-dō 734 National Park 602 film festivals Beppu Traditional cedars 64, 724, 725, 727 Nakamura 628 Fukuoka 651 Bamboo Crafts Centre cell phones 24, 836 Niseko 564 Nagasaki 676 714 cemeteries Sai-ko 156 Tokyo 130 Carpentry Museum Aoyama-reien 82 226 Shimanto-gawa 628 climate 32-5, see also canyoning Foreigners' Cemetery individual regions Crafts Gallery 92 558 Gunma Prefecture 166 climbing, see also hiking Fujii Folk Museum 219 Oku-no-in 14, 395, 14 Gasshō-zukuri Folk Hakuba 247 Asahi-dake 579, 359 Yanaka-reien 99 Village 227 Niseko 565 Daisen 742 Central Hokkaidō 562-73 Hakata Machiya Cape Nagasaki-bana 703 Fuppushi-dake 568 Central Honshū 199-275, Furusato-kan 651 Cape Sata 704 Jōnen-dake 200, 213, 220 Hirata Folk Art Museum Cape Toi 710 Kaimon-dake 703 climate 199, 201 220 Cape-misaki 744 Kamikōchi 232 Hida District 218-230 Hokkaidō Folk Arts & capsule hotels 827 Karakuni-dake 700 Crafts 574 highlights 200 car travel 612, 844-5, see Kufudake 719 Hokusai Museum 243 Japan Alps 18, 230-5, 18 also driving routes Miyanoura-dake 726 Ino Japanese Paper Nagano Prefecture carp 451 Mt Fuji 33, 147, 150-53 Museum 625 235-58, 236 castella 677 Ōtake-san 168 Ishikawa Prefectural Nagoya 201-12, 202 Museum of Traditional castles 14, 29 Rishiri-zan 588 travel to/from 201 Products & Crafts 263 Fukushima Prefecture Sapporo 550 travel within 201 Japan Folk Crafts 477, 484 Shari-dake 593 ceramics, see pottery Museum 84 Gifu 216 Yōtei-zan 572 cheese 576 Japan Ukiyo-e Museum Gujō 217 cherry-blossom festivals coffee 123, 798 251 Hikone 375 31 Confucian shrines 673 Kawai Kanjirō Memorial Himeji 370-1, 372 Hanami 105 Confucianism 775 Hall 289 Hirado 678 Kakunodate Sakura 517 consulates 829-30 Kumamoto Prefectural Hiroshima 417 Traditional Crafts Matsumoto-jō Sakura contemporary art 802 Centre 682 Inuyama 213 Matsuri 252 coral grass 591 Kurashiki Museum of Iwakuni 426 cherry-blossom viewing 12, cormorant fishing Folk-craft 438 Karatsu 662 33, 821, 12, 316 Gifu 215-16 Kurokabe Museum of Kōchi 624 Kyoto 286, 288, 304 Inuyama 214 Glass Art 376 Tokyo 82, 89, 97, 105 Iwakuni 426 Kusakabe Folk Crafts Yoshino 392-3 Map Pages 000 Nagara River Ukai Museum 219 Chiburi-jima 467 Museum 216 Photo Pages 000 Kyūshū Ceramic Chichi-jima 197-8 Ōzu 632 Museum 665 865 Miyako Messe & Fureai- Daigo-ji 304, 318 dragon-boat racing 673, F Kan Kyoto Museum of Daisen 472 739 farmhouse inns 517 Traditional Crafts 298 Daisetsuzan National Park drinks 795-8 festivals & events 17, 31, Nagamachi Yūzen-kan 544, 578-83, 580-1 beer 121, 797 32-5, see also art 260 Daishi, Kōbō 424, 447, 606, coffee 123, 798 festivals, cherry-blos- Naha City Traditional 621, 623 sake 796-7 som festivals, dance Arts & Crafts Center Daitoku-ji 286-7 shōchū 691, 798 festivals, film festivals, INDEX 739 music festivals, plum- dance 803-5, see also Nakazato Tarōemon 662 wine 604, 576, 577 blossom festivals, dance festivals, nō Nikkō Woodcarving driving routes individual festivals

-Bizan 607  C Center 161 Okhotsk Line 590 Akita Prefecture 517, 518 geisha dances 15, 328,  F Nishijin Textile Center 288 15 Shimanto-gawa 612 Aomori Prefecture 503, Kyoto 329 Ōhi Pottery Museum 265 Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine 508, 509 Tokyo 131-2 Orinasu-kan 288 Route 259 Awa-odori Matsuri dance festivals Sanuki Folkcraft Museum Utsukushi-ga-hara-kōgen 34, 610 643 Asano-gawa Enyūkai 251 Fukuoka Prefecture 265 Toyama Municipal drumming, see Kodo 654-5 Folkcraft Village 258 Awa-odori Matsuri Drummers, taiko Fukushima Prefecture 478 34, 610 drumming Tsuboya Pottery Gion Matsuri 33, Museum 738 Gion Matsuri 33, Dutch traders 668, 672, 309-10, 34 677, 678 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial 309-10, 34 Hida District 222, 226 Art Museum 86 Gujō Odori 217 Himeji 371-2 cranes 602 Ohara Festival 697 E Hiroshima 417 creation myths 764 Sagi-mai Matsuri 453 earthquakes 820 Hokkaidō 550-51, 560, credit cards 833 Sansa Odori 500 Great East Japan Earth- 574, 577, 582, 591 cuisine 12, 786-99, see Tagiki Nō 683 quake (2011) 479, 492, Iwate Prefecture 496, also food Usudaiko dance festival 762, 780, 820, 824 498, 500 Ainu 601 710 Great Kantō Earthquake Kagoshima 697 Fukuoka 657 Dazaifu 660-2 (1923) 68, 810 Kamakura 193 Hokkaidō 553 Dejima 668 safety 835 265 Matsue 465 Democratic Party of Japan Eastern Hokkaidō 590-603, Kii Peninsula 397 , Nagano Prefecture 240 (DPJ) 763 594 598-9 Kōbe 367-8 Echigo-Tsumari Art Field Northern Honshu 491 Denjiro, Ōkōchi 302-3 Kumamoto Prefecture 537 regional specialities 791 depachika 29, 113, 324, 350 683 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 536-7 culture 781-5 department-store foodhalls, Kyoto 309-10 see depachika economy 762-3 courses 309 Miyagi Prefecture 485, Dewa Sanzan 522-4 Ehime Prefecture 629-40, 490 pop culture 31 disabilities, travellers with 360, 363, Miyazaki Prefecture 704 currency 24 836-7 Eihei-ji 274-5 Mt Fuji area 271 customs regulations 828 discount cards 829 Electric Town 92 Nagano Prefecture 252 cycling 842 diving 721, see also electricity 829 Nagasaki & around Abashiri 591 snorkelling embassies 829-30 673, 678 Hida-Furukawa 226 Aka-jima 744-5 emergencies 25 Nagoya 205-6 Karatsu 662 Hateruma-jima 760 Emperor Jimmu 390, Nara 384 Kibiji 436-7 Iriomote-jima 756 704, 764 Niigata Prefecture 532 Kyoto 334 Ishigaki-jima 751 employment 838-9 Nikkō 161 Matsuyama 639 Shikine-jima 184 Enryaku-ji 299 Noto Peninsula 271 Niseko 565 Southwest Islands environment 820-4 Okayama & around Ōnuma Quasi-National 721, 746 environmental issues 820-1, 435, 444 Park 562 Yaeyama Islands 750 823-4 Okinawa 739 Shimanami Kaidō 429 Yonaguni-jima 759, 760 Erimo-misaki 604-5 Osaka 347 Tōno 497-8 Dōgashima 181-2 Esashi 559 Saga Prefecture 663 cycling terminals 826 Dōgo 467 etiquette 27 Shikoku 625 Dōgo Onsen 635 accommodation 813 Shiga Prefecture 373 D dogsled racing 584 dining 786-7 Takayama Matsuri Daibutsu dolphin swimming 183, 197 geisha 819 33, 222 Kamakura 191 dolphins 823 onsen 817 Matsuri 33, 347 Nara 23, 381, 382-3, Dō-ō, see Central Hokkaidō Shintō shrines 783 Tokyo 86, 105-6 23, 318 Dō-hoku, see Northern events, see festivals & Yamaguchi & around Daibutsu-den Hall 381, Hokkaidō events 449, 456 382-3 Dōtō, see Eastern Hokkaidō exchange rates 25, 833 Yuki Matsuri 32, 550-1 866 film festivals sushi 789-90, 12, 55 Kōko-en 371 Hakone-Yumoto Onsen Tokyo Filmex 130 sweets 795 Kōraku-en 431-2 169-72 Tokyo International Film tempura 791-2 Mōtsū-ji 494 Hakuba 247-9, 51 Festival 130 tonkatsu 793 Sankei-en 186 Hakusan 274 Tokyo International udon 792 Sengan-en (Iso-teien) Hakusan National Park 274 Lesbian & Gay Film unagi 793 692-6 hammerhead sharks 759

INDEX INDEX Festival 128 wagyū beef 793 Tokugawa-en 204 hanami, see cherry-blossom Yamagata International wasabi 257 Tokyo 91, 102 viewing, cherry-blossom Documentary Film Yoshiki-en 379-81 festivals Festival 525 websites 791, 794 ,F- Gas-san 522-3 Harajuku 84-6, 115-16, 123  films 762, 792, 806-7, see yakitori 789 H 135-6, 85  food festivals gay travellers 128, 830 also anime, cinemas harp seals 584 Sapporo Autumn Fest geisha 818-19, 40, 319 National Film Centre Hashimoto Tōru 763 69-72 551 books 818 Hateruma-jima 759 Twenty-Four Eyes Movie football 550 costumes 309 Hattōji 437 Village 441 foreign relations 763 dancing 15, 328, 15 Hayao, Miyazaki 87, 762, fishing, see also cormorant fortune telling 102 districts 284, 293-4 807, 808 fishing Fugen-dake 680 entertainment 328 health 830 marlin 760 fugu 56, 789 etiquette 819 Hearn, Patrick Lafcadio tuna 508 Fuji Five Lakes 153-7 geography 820 455, 463, 682 Five Colours Lakes 481 Fuji-Yoshida 153-4 Ghibli Museum 87 Heisei Shinzan 680 floating world 801 Fukiage Onsen 578 giant eels 703 hells 679, 712, 716, 361 food 29, 55-9, 786-99, 830, Fuki-ji 720 giant salamander 822 henro 617 see also cuisine Fukuchi Onsen 234 giant squid 198 Hida District 218-30 books 786, 788 Fukui 274 Gifu 215-17 Hida-Furukawa 226-7 castella 677 274-5 Ginkaku-ji 295, 358 hidden Christians 453, cheese 576 Fukuoka 650-60, 652 Ginza 73-6, 107, 112, 120, 665, 772 children 53-4 accommodation 655-6 133-4, 74 Hidenori, Kiku 736 cooking courses 104, climate 647 Ginzan Onsen 527 Hideyoshi, Toyotomi 461 309, 717, 799 drinking 658 Gion Matsuri 33, Higashi Hongan-ji 281-2 costs 61 festivals & events 654-5 309-10, 34 Higashi Iya 620-1 depachika 29, 113, 324, Glover, Thomas 671 350 food 656-8 Higashi-Matsūra Peninsula Gokayama 227, 229-30 662 etiquette 786-7 nightlife 658 shopping 658-9 gold leaf 261 hiking 29, see also climbing fugu 56, 789 sights 651-4 gold mining 535 Akan National Park 597 izakaya 788-9, 57 Fukuoka Prefecture 650-61, golf 576 Akita Komaga-take 513 kaiseki 794-5 Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear Gōra 172-3 Bandai-san 481 Kōbe beef 793 power plant 25, 479, Great Buddha, see Daisetsuzan National language 59, 787-95, 762, 824 Daibutsu Park 579 852-4 Fukushima Prefecture Great East Japan Gunma Prefecture 166 matsutake mushrooms 477-82 Earthquake (2011) 479, Hakkōda-san 505-6 798 492, 762, 780, 820, 824 Fumiko, Hayashi 428 Hakodate- 559 meals 59 Great Kantō Earthquake Furano 575-8 Hakuba 247 nagashi-sōmen 703 (1923) 68, 810 Hakutō-zan 601 okonomiyaki 794, 58 green sea turtles 727 Iriomote-jima 756 rāmen 111, 792, 59 G Gujō-Hachiman 217-18 gardens 29, see also parks Ishizuchi-san 640 sashimi 789-90, 12 Gunkanjima 673 Asakusa-jinja 101, 30 Iwaki-san 512 seasonal dishes 56 Gunma Prefecture 148, Genkyū-en 375 164-7 Izu Peninsula 175 self-catering (Tokyo) Japan Alps 18, 201, 116 Ginkaku-ji 295, 30 232, 18 Glover Garden 671 shabu-shabu 791 H Jōnen-dake 257 Gyokusen-en 264-5 shokudō 787 Hachijō-jima 184 Kamakura 193 Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien soba 792 Hagi 458-62, 460 75-6 Kawachi Pass 678 specialities 57-9 Haguro-san 522 Hokkaidō University Kirishima-Yaku National street food 56 Botanical Garden Haha-jima 198 Park 700-1 sukiyaki 791 548-9 Hakata, see Fukuoka Komagatake 562 Imperial Palace East Hakkōda-san 505-6 Magome 254-5 Garden 69 Hakodate 557-61 Mano 534 Map Pages 000 Isui-en 379 Hakone 148, 169-74, , Me-Akan-dake 600 Photo Pages 000 170 11 Kenroku-en 263 Hakone-machi 174 Mt Fuji 147-53 867 Naruko Gorge 492 travel to/from 544-5 izakaya 788-9, 57 entertainment 268 Niseko 565 travel within 545 Izu Islands 182-4 festivals & events 265 O-Akan-dake 600 Hongū 402-3 Izu Peninsula 148, 174-84, food 266-7 Oirase-gawa 506 Honshū Chūbu, see Central 176 shopping 268 Oku-Tama 168 Honshū Izumo 467-8 sights 260-5 Rausu-dake 593-4 holidays 834-5 Izumo Taisha 467-8 travel to/from 269 Rebun-tō 588-9 horses 467, 710, 759 travel within 269 INDEX Hōryū-ji 389 Rishiri-tō 585 J Kaniyu Onsen 163 Shari-dake 593 hot springs, see hells, Japan Alps 18, 230-5, 18 Kanjirō, Kawai 289 -onsen  H bus routes 231 Kanka Gorge 441-2 K  595 ,593 hiking 201 Kannawa 712, 716 Takao-san 168 I Japan Rail 847 Kanō school 800 Tsumago–Magome Ibusuki 702-3 Kansai 336-410, 337 23, 254 JR East Pass 477, 849 ikebana 105 travel passes 338, 365, Unzen 680 Kansai Thru Pass 338, Ikeda 604 365 393 Yakushima 724, 726-7 Ikeda-kō 703 passes 848-50 kappa 498 Yōtei-zan 572 Ikuchi-jima 431 reservations 851 karaoke 120, 328-9 Hikone 375-6 Imari 664 Japanese gardens 803, see Karatsu 662-3 Himeji 370-3, 371 pottery 662 also gardens Karuizawa 241-3 Himeji-jō 370-1, 372, 317 immigration 840 jigoku 679, 712, 716 Kasaoka Islands 446-7 Himiko 765 Imperial Palace (Tokyo) Jimmu, Emperor 390, Kashihara 390-1 Hirado 677-9 69, 126 704, 764 Kawaguchi-ko 154-6 Hiraga, Key 169-71 Imperial Palace (Kyoto) Jōmon era Kawa-yu Onsen 403-4 Hiraizumi 494-6, 495 284-5 archaeological sites Kawayu Onsen 597-9 Hirayama, Ikuo 431 Inno-shima 430 502, 699 kayaking, see also Hirayu Onsen 233-4 insurance 830-1 history 764-5 canoeing, sea kayaking Hirosaki 509-12, 510 internet access 831, 832 Jōzankei 572-3 Iriomote-jima 756 Hiroshi, Teshigahara 470 internet resources 25 J-pop 806 Iya Valley 618 Hiroshima 16, 414-22, art 804 JR, see Japan Rail Miyako-jima 747 416, 16 food 791, 794 Motosu-ko 156 accommodation 417-19 onsen 817 K Nakamura 628 books 421 Inuyama 212-14, 213 kabuki 18, 803-4, 18 Shimanto-gawa 628 climate 411 Iō-jima 730 Kotohira 641 Kenzaburo, Ōe 805 drinking 420 Iō-zan 597 Kyoto 328 Kerama deer 745 festivals & events 417 Irabu-jima 750 Nagoya 209 Kerama Islands 744-6 food 419-20 Iriomote cat 822 Shōdo-shima 442 Kerr, Alex 619, 762 nightlife 420 Iriomote-jima 756-7 Tokyo 131-2 Kibiji 436-7 shopping 420-1 Isamu Noguchi Garden Uchiko 633 Kibune 306, 307 sights 414-17 Museum 646 Kabuki-za 131 Kii Peninsula 393-404, travel pass 422 Ise 404-7, 405 Kaeda 708-9 394 historical periods 765 Ise-jingū 404-6 Kaga Onsen 273-4 Kii-Katsuura 402 history 764-80 Ishigaki-jima 750-5, 755 Kagawa Prefecture 640-6 Kii-Ōshima 401-2 books 770, 778 kimonos Ishihara Shintarō 763 Kagoshima 692-700, 694-5 European arrivals 771 Hakata-ori no Sennen Ishikawa Prefecture 260-74 transport passes 700 Meiji Restoration 650, Kōbō 658 Ishinomake 491-2 Kagoshima Prefecture 696, 776-7 Nishijin Textile Center Ishite-ji 634 691-704, 724-36 Mongol invasions 768-70 288 Ishiyama-dera 375 Kaimon-dake 703 Nanjing Massacre 779 Kinkaku-ji 299, 10-11 Ishizuchi-san 640 kaiseki 794-5 hitching 846 Kinosaki 408-9 itineraries 36-47 Kaitei Iseki 760 Hiwasa 621-2 Kirishima-Yaku National Kamakura 148, 190-5, Hokkaidō 13, 540-605, Kyoto 281, 292, 292 192 Park 700-1 542-3 Tokyo 69, 98, 98 kamikaze 770 Kisami 180-1 climate 541-4 Itō 175-7 kamikaze pilots 702 Kiso Valley Nakasendō ferry options 573 Iwaki-san 512 Kamikōchi 23, 230-3, 23 254-7 festivals 550-1, 560, 574, Iwakuni 426-7 Kammu 767-8 Kiso-Fukushima 256-69 577, 582, 591 Iwami Ginzan 468-9 Kanazawa 260-9, 262-3 Kitakata 480 food 553 Iwate Prefecture 493-502, accommodation 265-6 Kitayama 305-10 highlights 542-3 493 activities 260-5 Kiyomasa, Katō 682 travel seasons 540 Iya Valley 616-21, 618 drinking 267-8 Kiyomizu-dera 289-90 868 Kōbe 364-70, 366, 364 travel to/from 332-3 Onomichi Literature travel to/from 254 accommodation 368 travel within 333-5 Museum 428-9 travel within 254 drinking 369 Unesco World Heritage Loggerhead sea turtles 727 Matsumoto, Leiji 412 festivals & events 367-8 Sites 308 love hotels 109, 827-8 Matsushima 489-91 food 368-9 Kyoto Protocol 823 matsutake mushrooms 798 sights 364-7 Kyūshū 647-720, 648-9 M Matsuyama 634-9, 636 INDEX INDEX Kōbe beef 793 highlights 648-9 macaques 244, 508, 544, Matsuzaki 181 Koboke 617-20 pottery towns 662 822, 362 Me-Akan-dake 600 Kōchi 624-8, 626 transport passes 660 magazines 829 measures 829 K- Kōchi Prefecture 623-9 travel seasons 647 Magome 254-5 medical system 831  M  Kodo Drummers 532 travel to/from 650 maid cafes 92 meibutsu 791, see also kofun 387, 390-91, 437, travel within 650 maiko-henshin 309 cuisines 710, 765 Maizuru 410 Meiji Restoration 650, 696, 776-7 Komagatake 561 L Makurazaki 703 Minakami Onsen 166-7 Kompira-san 641 lacquerware 261, 448, 802, manga 802 Kōri-jima 743 see also crafts & folk Animate 137 minshuku 814 Kotohira 641-3, 642 art museums Ishinomaki Mangattan miso 516 Mito 167 Kōya-san 394-9, 396 lakes Museum 491 Kublai Khan 768-9 Ashi-no-ko 173 Kyoto International Mitsumasa, Anno 451 Five Colours Lakes 481 Manga Museum 284 Miyagi Prefecture 482-93, Kumamoto 682-7, 684 Ikeda-kō 703 Mandarake Complex 484 Kumamoto Prefecture 137 682-91 Junsainuma 561 Miyajima 422-6, 423 Matsumoto, Leiji 412 Kumamoto-jō 683 Kawaguchi-ko 154-6 Miyako-jima 747-50, 748, 749 Murakami, Takashi 802 Kumano Kodō 22, 398 Kinrin-ko 719 Miyako lslands 747-50 manga kissa 61, 129 Kume-jima 746-7 Konuma 561 Miyanoshita 172 Manjirō, John 628-9 Kunimi-dake 680 Kussharo-ko 597 Miyazaki Prefecture 704-12 Mano 534 Kunio, Yanagita 496-7, Mashū-ko 597 Mizayaki 704-8, 706 499 Motosu-ko 156 manta rays 751 mobile phones 24, 836 Kunisaki Peninsula 720 Ōnuma 561 maple trees 823 Mojikō 654 maps 831-2 Kurama 306, 307 Sai-ko 156 Momotarō 434 marimo 601 Kurashiki 438-40, 439 Shikotsu-ko 568 money 24, 25, 832-3 maritime museums Kuril Islands 603 Shiretoko-go-ko 595 monkeys Hikawa Maru 186 Kuril seals 605 Tazawa-ko 512-15 Arashiyama Monkey Park Kōbe Maritime Museum Kurokawa Onsen 691 Towada-ko 506-7 Iwatayama 303 367 Chōshi-kei Valley Monkey Kusatsu Onsen 164-5 Tōya-ko 568-9 Yamanaka-ko 157 Nagara River Ukai Park 442 Kushimoto 401-2 Museum 216 Yugama crater lake 165 Jigokudani Monkey Kushiro 602-3 Yokohama Port Museum language 24, 27, 852-9 Park 244 Kushiro Wetlands National 184-5 macaques 244, 508, Park 602 food 59, 787-95, 852-4 markets 544, 822, 362 Kutani porcelain 261 onsen 817 Karato Ichiba 454 Morioka 500-2, dialects 736 500 Kyoto 11, 276-335, 277, Kyoto 330 Moroyose 407 278-9, 282, 285, 287, train travel 847 Ōedo Antique Market moths 759 290, 296-7 left luggage 831 133 Motobu Peninsula 743 climate 276, 280 legal matters 831 Ōmichō Market 265 Moto-Hakone 174 drinking 326-7 legends Tsukiji Fish Market motorcycle travel 844-6 entertainment 328-9 Amaterasu 710, 712, 73-4, 789 rider houses 828 food 315-26 764 Marugame 640 mountain biking highlights 277 kappa 498 Mashū-ko 597 Momotarō 434 Daisetsuzan National history 280 Matsue 463-6, 464 Tatsuko 513 Park 581 itineraries 281, 292, 292 Matsumae 559 Tōnō 499 Gunma Prefecture 166 shopping 329-31 Matsumoto 249-54, 250 lesbian travellers 128, 830 Hakuba 247 sights 280-308 accommodation 252-3 Liberal Democratic Party Hida-Furukawa 226 sleeping 310-15 (LDP) 763 activities 250-2 mountain climbing, see tourist information 332 lifestyles 782-3 drinking 253 climbing literature 805-6, see also festivals & events 252 Mt Fuji 20, 147-53, 148-9, food 253 150, 21, 126 Map Pages 000 books, writers shopping 253-5 accommodation 152 Photo Pages 000 Hokkaidō Museum of Literature 549 sights 250-2 climate 146, 150-1 869 highlights 148 Higashi Iya History & Museum of Kyoto 284 Tokyo National Museum planning 152 Folk Museum 620 Museum of the Meiji 93-5 trails 151-2 Hikiyama Festival Float Restoration 696 Tomo-no-Ura Museum of travel seasons 150-1 Exhibition Hall 663 Myōzen-ji Folk Museum History & Folklore 427 travel to/from 152 Hirado Christian 228 Tōno Folk Village 496-7 Museum 678 views 153 Nagai Takashi Memorial Tōno Municipal Museum

Hiraizumi Cultural Museum 667-8 496 INDEX Mt Fuji Station 154 Heritage Center 495 Nagasaki Museum of Tōson Kinenkan 255 Mt Shirane 165 Historical Museum of History & Culture 669 Treasure Museum 397 Mt Tanigawa 166 China 673 Nakamura Memorial -Waki-honjin (Okuya) &  M Mt Tenjin 166 Hokkaidō Museum of Museum 264 Local History Museum N  Mugi 622 Literature 549 Nara National Museum 255 Murakami, Haruki 805, Honda Museum 264 377-9 Yakusugi Museum 725 806 Hyōgo Prefectural National Museum of Yokohama Archives of Murakami, Takashi 802 Museum of History 371 Ethnology 345 History 186 Murechō 646 Inuyama Artifacts Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse Yoron Minzoku-mura 735 Muroto Cape 623 Museum 213 502 Yuzawa Town History museum passes (Tokyo) 77 Isamu Noguchi Garden Okayama Prefectural Museum 536 museums, see also Ainu Museum 646 Museum 433 music 806 museums, archaeologi- Ishigaki City Yaeyama Okinawa Prefectural AKB48 93 Museum 751 Museum & Art cal sites & museums, Kodo Drummers 532 architecture museums, Izumo Taisha 468 Museum 738 music boxes 563 art museums & Japan Rural Toy Museum Old English Consulate music festivals galleries, crafts & folk 438 557-8 Asano-gawa Enyūkai 265 art museums, maritime Japanese Lamp & Old Public Hall of museums, science & Lighting Museum 243 Hakodate Ward 557 Earth Celebration 532 technology museums, Old Sapporo Court of Fuji Rock Festival 538 sports museums, war Japanese Sword Appeals Building 547 Jōzenji Street Jazz museums Museum 87 Onomichi Literature Festival 485 !!! Cup Noodles Museum Kaikarō 265 Museum 428-9 Matsumoto-jō Taiko 187 Kanazawa Noh Museum Osaka Museum of Matsuri 252 Abashiri Prison Museum 260-1 History 339 Saitō Kinen Matsuri 252 591 Kanazawa Phonograph Museum 264 Osaka Museum of musical instruments Advertising Museum Housing & Living 339 Tokyo 76 Karakuri Museum 219 sanshin 739 Otaru Museum 562 Akan Kohan Eco- Kawayu Eco-Museum shakuhachi 329 Otaru Music Box Museum Centre 600 Centre 597 shamisen 329, 804, 819 Museum 563 Aoyagi Samurai Manor Kinryō-no-Sato 641 suikinkutsu 376 Peace Memorial Museum Museum 516 Kiriko Kaikan 271 taiko 101 415 Awa Deko Ningyō Kaikan Kite Museum 72 Myōken-dake 680 Reimeikan 696 610 Kōbe City Museum Myōkō Kōgen 538-9 Sand Museum 470 Beer Museum Yebisu 80 365-6 Sapporo Winter Sports Chidō Museum 520 Koizumi Yakumo Museum 547 Christian Museum 447 (Lafcadio Hearn) N Sendai City Museum 485 Nachi 402 Date Museum 630 Memorial Museum 463 Sex Museum 629-30 Nachi Taisha 402, 363 Dazaifu Exhibition Kyūshū National Shiki Memorial Museum Hall 661 Museum 660-1 Naeba 537-8 Maneki-neko Museum 634 Dejima Museum 668 Nagahama 376 428 Shima 265 Dondenkan 213 Nagano 235-40, 239 Marukin Soy Sauce Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Nagano Prefecture 235-58, D.T. Suzuki Museum 263 Museum 187 Historical Museum 441 236 Edo-Tokyo Museum 102 Shitamachi Museum 97 Matsue History Museum cuisine 240 Former Kaichi School 250 463 Southern Cross Center Nagasaki 665-77, 666, Former Mikasa Hotel 242 Matsumoto Timepiece 735 670, 672 Fukuoka City Museum Museum 250 Takayama Festival Floats accommodation 673-4 654 Matsūra Historical Exhibition Hall 219 Fukushima Checkpoint Museum 678 Takayama Museum of drinking 676 Site 256 Miho Museum 375 History & Art 220 festivals & events 673 Ghibli Museum 87 Miyajima History & Takayama Shōwa-kan 220 food 674-6 Gun Museum 730 Folklore Museum 424 Tattoo Museum 186 nightlife 676 Hakone Sekisho 174 Morijuku Museum 451 Tōdai-ji Museum 381 shopping 676 Hida Furukawa Matsuri Munakata Shikō Togakushi Folk Museum sights 665-73 Kaikan 226 Memorial Hall 502 and Ninja House 241 tours 673 870 Nagasaki Prefecture San-in Coast National O Ishikawa Prefecture 273 665-79 Park 414, 473 Obi 709-10 Izu Islands 184 Nagoya 201-12, 202 Setonaikai National Obihiro 604 Izu Peninsula 175, 181 Park 414 accommodation 206-7 Ōboke 617-20 Kagoshima 696 Shikotsu-Tōya National drinking 208-9 Obuse 243-4 Kaniyu Onsen 163 Park 544, 568-73, 570, entertainment 209 Ōedo Antique Market 133 Kawa-yu Onsen 403-4

INDEX INDEX 570-1 festivals & events Ōgai, Mori 453 Kawayu Onsen 597-9 205-6 Shiretoko National Park Ogasawara Archipelago 16, Kii Peninsula 400, 403-4 food 207-8 544, 593-7, 594, 17 149, 196-8, 16 Kitayama 307, 308-9 N- shopping 209-10 Towada-Hachimantai  National Park 476 Ogi 534-5 Kurokawa Onsen 691 sights 203-12 0  Unzen-Amakusa National Ogimachi 227-8 Kusatsu Onsen 164-5 Naha 738-43, 740 Park 679 Ogiwara, Rokuzan 257 language 817 climate 721 Natsume, Sōseki 805 Ōhi pottery 261, 265 Minakami Onsen 166-7 Naka-dake 687-9 newspapers 829 Ohkihama 628 Mt Fuji area 155 Nakajima no Ochaya 76 Nichinan-kaigan 710 Ohkinohama 629 Nagano Prefecture 244, Nakamura 628 Niigata 529-30, 533 Ōita Prefecture 712-20, 713 245, 249, 251 Nakano-shima 467 Niigata Prefecture 528-39, Ōkawachiyama 664 Naruko Onsen 492-3 Naked Festival 226, 435 Niseko 565 529 Okayama 431-6, 432 Naoshima 20, 443-6, 21 Nii-jima 183 Okayama Prefecture 431-47 Noboribetsu Onsen 572 Nozawa Onsen 245-7 Nara 377-87, 378, 388 Nikkō 157-63, 158 Okhotsk 590 accommodation 384-5 Nikkō National Park Oki Islands 466-7 Nyūtō Onsen 515 festivals & events 384 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari 163-4 Okinawa-hontō 737-44, 737 103-4 food 386 Niseko 564-7, 17, 48 Okinawa Prefecture 736-60 onsen ryokan 515, itineraries 380 Nishi Hongan-ji 282-3 Okinoerabu-jima 734-5 sights 377-84 815, 817 Nishi Iya 620 okonomiyaki 794, 58 Narai 256-7 Osumi Islands 730 Nishino-shima 467 Oku-Matsushima 490 Narita 195-6 Rebun-tō 589 nō 803 Oku-no-in 14, 395, 14 Naruko Onsen 492-3 Rishiri-tō 585 festivals 252, 384, 683 Oku-Tama Region 168-9 Naruto 613 Sendai 488 Kanazawa Noh Museum olives 440-1 Naruto Whirlpools 613 Shin-Hotaka Onsen 234-5 260-1 Ōma 508 national parks 823 Shirahama 400 Kyoto 329 Ōmi-shima 431 Akan National Park 544, Shirahone Onsen 233 Miyajima 422 Onomichi 428-30 597-602, 598-9 Shiretoko National Naramachi 384 onsen 11, 30, 815-17 Park 596 Bandai-Asahi National Osaka 354 Park 480 Akan National Park 600 Shōdo-shima 440-1 Sado 532 Daisen-Oki National Park Akanko Onsen 599-605 Shuzen-ji Onsen 182 Tōno 496 414, 466-7, 472 Akita Prefecture 515 Sōunkyō Onsen 581-2 Noboribetsu Onsen 572 Daisetsuzan National Akiu Onsen 488 Southern Hokkaidō 560 Park 544, 578-83, Nobuhiko, Ōbayashi 428 Aoni Onsen 511 Takaragawa Onsen 166-7 580-1 Nobunaga 771 Asahidake Onsen 578-81 tattoos 816 Hakusan National Park Noguchi, Isamu 646 Aso-san 689 Tawarayama Onsen 459 274 nōka minshuku 517 Beppu 712-13 Tokachi-dake Onsen Kirishima-Yaku National Nokonoshima 654 Bessho Onsen 249 582-3 Park 691, 700-1 Northern Hokkaidō 573-90 books 815 Tokyo 103-4 Kushiro Wetlands Northern Honshū 474-539, Tottori 471 National Park 544, Chūzen-ji Onsen 163-4 475 602 Dōgo Onsen 635 Tottori Prefecture 471 climate 474 Nikkō National Park Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen Tsuwano 453 163-4 cuisine 491 536-7 Unzen 679 Ōnuma Quasi-National discount card 476 etiquette 817 Watarase Onsen 403 Park 561-2 highlights 475 Fukiage Onsen 578 websites 817 Rikuchū-kaigan National Noto Peninsula 269-73, Fukuchi Onsen 234 Yakushima 727 Park 476 270 Ginzan Onsen 527 Yuda onsen 449 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu Noto-chō 272-3 Gunma Prefecture 164-5, Yumoto Onsen 164 National Park 544, Noto-kongō Coast 271 166 Zaō Onsen 527-8 585-90, 586 Nozawa Onsen 245-7 Hakone-Yumoto Onsen onsen ryokan 515, nuclear disaster 25, 479, 169-72 815, 817 762, 824 Hida District 228, 233-5 Map Pages 000 Ōnuma Quasi-National nuclear power 762 Hirayu Onsen 233-4 Park 561-2 Photo Pages 000 Nyūtō Onsen 515 Ise 408 opening hours 25 871 Orkin, Ivan 111 Maruyama-kōen 293 clay mines 664 S Osaka 338-64, 340, 316 Moerenuma-kōen 549 courses 461, 524 Sadaharu, Oh 654 accommodation 347-8 Ōdōri Kōen 547 haki-yagi 459 Sado-ga-shima 530-6, activities 338-47 Onshi Hakone Kōen 174 Hirashimizu Pottery 531 Amerika-Mura 341-3, 351 Peace Memorial Park District 524 festivals 532 climate 336 414, 16 Imari 662 safety 25, 835 Den Den Town 356 Ritsurin-kōen 643 Jōmon era 764 bears 595 INDEX Dōtombori 341, 351-2 Sculpture Park 176 Kanazawa 261 earthquakes 835 drinking 352-3 Senshū-kōen 518 Kanjirō, Kawai 289 Saga Prefecture 662-5 -Enjoy Eco Card 365 Shizuki-kōen 459 Karatsu 662 Saidai-ji Eyō 435  O entertainment 353-4 Tokyo 84, 87, 96-7 Kutani Kosen Gama Saihō-ji 305  S Kiln 265 festivals & events 347 Ueno-kōen 96-7 Saijō 425 Kyūshū 662 food 348-52 passports 840 Sai-ko 156 Naha 738 itineraries 346 Peace Memorial Park Saitobaru 710 414, Noritake Garden Kita Area 338-9, 347, 16 Sakai, Yoshie 802 Peach Boy 434 203-4 348-9, 352, 354, 342 sake 796-7 pilgrimage routes Ōhi pottery 261, 265 Minami 346, 347-8, 352-3, books 797 88 Temples of Shikoku public holidays 834-5 354-73, 344-5, 346 breweries 155, 425, 437, 613, 617, 623, 631, puppet theatre 354, 607-10, Nakano-shima 339-41 478, 573-4 614-15 804 nightlife 352-3 festivals 533 Dewa Sanzan 522-3 Shinsaibashi 349-50 museums 367, 478, 480, Kumano Kodō 22, 398 shopping 354-64 R 573, 641 planning 26-7 sights 338-47 radio 829 Niigata 533 accommodation 26 Tempōzan 343-4 rakugo 804 Saijō 425 basics 24-5 Tennō-ji 343 rāmen 111, 792, 59 tastings 384 budget 60-1 travel to/from 357 !!! Cup Noodles Museum Sakhalin Island (Russia) budgeting 24-5 travel within 357, 364 187 585 calendar of events 32-5 Ōsumi Islands 724-31 Shin-Yokohama Rāmen sakoku 665, 774 children 53-4, 106 Museum 187 Otaru 562-4, 42 Sakurai 391-2 internet resources 25 Ōtsu 373 tonkotsu rāmen 657 Sakurajima 693 itineraries 36-47 Ōwakudani 173 Rausu-dake 593-4 samurai 769, 774-5 money 27 Ōzu 632 Rebun-tō 588-90 Aoyagi Samurai Manor regions 62-4 religion 763 Museum 516 repeat visitors 28 Rendai-ji 181 residences 260, 463, P skiing 48-52 restaurants 59, 787-95 516, 681, 702, 730 painting 800 travel seasons 24, 32-5 etiquette 786-7 Ryōma, Sakamoto 624, palaces plants 822, see also menus 787-95 692 Imperial Palace (Tokyo) cherry-blossom viewing, prices 787 Takamori, Saigō 692, 775 69, 126 plum-blossom viewing, White Tigers 477 individual species Rimpa school 800 Kyoto Imperial Palace Sanbe-san 469 (Gosho) 284-5 seasons 821, 823 Rinko, Kikuchi 84 sand dunes 470 Park Golf 576 plum-blossom festivals 167 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park 544, San-in Coast National Park parks, see also gardens plum-blossom viewing 32 585-90, 586 414, 473 Arashiyama Bamboo 821, see also cherry- Rishiri-tō 585-8, 43 sanshin 739 Grove 15, 301-2, 15, blossom viewing Sapporo 546-57, 548 362 Kyoto 286 Ritsurin-kōen 643 accommodation 551-2 Chūō-kōen 610, 653 Okayama 433 river otters 822 activities 549-50 Godaisan 624 Tokyo 91 riverboats 142 climate 540 Heiwadai-kōen 704 politics 763 Russia, travel to 585 Hijiyama-kōen 417 pop culture 93, see also Rusutsu 565 drinking 554-5 Hino-yama Park 455 anime, j-pop, manga ryokan 12, 812-14, 13 festivals & events 550-1 Hirosaki-kōen 509 population 763, 784-5 onsen ryokan 515, food 552-4 Institute for Nature porcelain 261 815, 817 Study 81 Poroshiri-dake 605 Ryōma, Sakamoto 624, nightlife 554-5 Kameyama-kōen 301 Portuguese arrival 650, 692 sights 546-9 Kikkō-kōen 426 665, 677, 770, 771 Ryōtsu 533-4 Sapporo Snow Festival 32, 550-1, Kyoto Botanical Gardens post 834 Ryōzen-ji 613 360 288 pottery 461, 801-2 Ryū, Murakami 806 sashimi 789-90, 12 Kyoto Imperial Palace Arita 662 Ryūga-dō 623-4 Satsuma Peninsula 701-3 Park 286 Bizen 436 Ryūkyū kingdom 723 Satsuma Rebellion 683 872 science & technology sentō 104 Kitayama 307-8 Myōkō Kōgen 539 museums Ibuskuki 702 Kōbe 365 Naeba 537-8 Aso Volcano Museum 689 Tokyo 104 Kunisaki Peninsula 720 Niseko 564-5, 17, 48 Ayamihabiru-kan 759 Tottori 471 Kyoto 288-9, 293, 298, Nozawa Onsen 245 Gamadas Dome Mt Unzen 679 299, 304 Rusutsu 565 Unzen Disaster Yunomine Onsen 403 Matsuyama 634 Sapporo 549-50

INDEX INDEX Memorial Hall 681 Setouchi Shimanami Miyajima 422 Sapporo Winter Sports Mazda Museum 415 Kaidō 429 Mt Fuji area 153 Museum 547 Meguro Parasitological shabu-shabu 791 Nagano Prefecture 241 Shiga Kōgen 244-5 Museum 81 S shakuhachi 329 Nagasaki 669 Tazawa-ko 513  Miyazaki Science Centre  shamisen 329, 804, 819 Nagoya 205 Zaō Onsen 527 704 Shari 593 Nara & around 384, 390, snakes 426 Modern Transportation 391, 392 Museum 339 Shari-dake 593 snorkelling, see also diving Nikkō 159-60 Mt Asama Magma Stone Shiga Kōgen 244-5 Chichi-jima 197 Park 242 Shiga Prefecture 373-6, Osaka 343 Iriomote-jima 756 Nagoya City Science 374 Shimonoseki 455 Izu Islands 183 Museum 205 Shikanoshima 654 Takachiho 710-11 Miyako-jima 747 National Museum of Shiki, Masaoka 634 Tokyo 77, 79, 84, 87, Shimoji-jima 750 Emerging Science & Shikibu, Murasaki 767, 805 89, 101 snowboarding 621, see also Innovation (Mirai-kan) Shikine-jima 184 Tōshō-gū 159-60 skiing 104 Shikoku 606-46, 608-9 Tsuwano 451 Furano 576-7 National Science highlights 608-9 Uwajima 629-30 soba 792 Museum 97 travel seasons 606 Shiono-misaki 401-2 soccer 550 Okhotsk Drift Ice Shikotsu-ko 568 Shira-hama 180 sokushinbutsu 525 Museum 591 Shikotsu-Tōya National Shirahama 400-1 solo travellers 835 Space Technology Shirahone Onsen 233 Museum 729 Park 544, 568-73, 570-1 Sotokaifu 536-9 Shiraishi-jima 447 Toyota Commemorative Shimabara 680-2, 681 Sōunkyō Onsen 581-2 Shirakami-sanchi 476, 512 Museum of Industry & teahouses 682 Sōun-zan 173 Technology 204 Shimabara Peninsula Shirakawa-gō 227-30, 38 Southern Hokkaidō 557-62 Toyota Kaikan Exhibition 679-82 Ogimachi 227-8 Southern Tokushima Hall and Factory Tour Shimanami Kaidō bridge Shiretoko National Park Prefecture 621-3 211-12 system 429, 430-1 544, 593-7, 594, 17 Southwest Islands 721-60, Umekōji Steam Locomo- Shimanto-gawa 628 onsen 596 722 tive Museum 283 Shimoda 177-80, 178 shōchū 691, 798 beaches 721 Umigame-kan 726 Shimoji-jima 750 Shōdo-shima 440-3, 441 climate 723 Volcano Science Shimokita Peninsula 508-9 ferry times 443 diving 721, 746 Museum 568 Shimonoseki 454-8, 456-7 travel passes 442 ferry passes 724 Yakushima Environment travel passes 458 Shōji-ko 156 highlights 722 Culture Village Center shokudō 787 travel seasons 721 726 Shingū 402 shopping 19, 30-1 travel to/from 723 sea kayaking Shin-Hotaka Onsen 234-5 second hand 136 travel within 724 Chichi-jima 197 Shinmoe-dake 701 shrines, see Confucian soy sauce 441 Hachijō-jima 184 Shintō 783 festivals 424, 468 shrines, Shintō shrines sporting events, see also Miyajima 424 Shintō shrines 29, see also Shugendō 522 baseball, sumō Niseko 565 individual shrines shukubō 814 All-Japan Billfish Shiraishi-jima 447 Aso-san 689 Shukunegi 534 Tournament 760 Takegashima Island 622 Dazaifu 661 Shuzen-ji Onsen 182 dragon-boat races seasons 821, 823 673, 739 etiquette 783 silk-dyeing 261 Seikan Tunnel 561 Japan Cup Dogsled Fukuoka 651 silver mining 468-9 self-catering 116 Race 584 skiing 17, 31, 48-52, 481, Hagi 459-60 tug of war 739 Sendai 483-9, 486 see also snowboarding Hakone 174 Yabusame 704 travel pass 489 Akakura Onsen 539 Hokkaidō 549 sports museums Senkaku Islands 763 Bendai Plateau 481 Inuyama area 215 Japanese Baseball Hall Sensō-ji 99-100, 124 courses 539 Ise 404-6 of Fame & Museum 91 fortune telling 102 Echigo-Yuzawa 536 Izumo Taisha 467-8 Kawayu Sumō Museum Kagawa Prefecture 641 Gunma Prefecture 166 597-8 Hakkōda-san 506 Map Pages 000 Kamakura 191 Sapporo Winter Sports Hakuba 247, Museum 547 Photo Pages 000 Kirishima-Yaku National 51 Park 700 538 Sumō Museum 102 873 street food 56 Takayama Matsuri 33, 222 tōgyu 733 shopping 133-45 subways 847 Takegashima Island 622 Tōhoku, see Northern sights 68-104 Sugawara-no-Michizane 661 Takeno 407 Honshū Sumida-gawa 99-102, Suica cards 143 Taketomi-jima 758-9 toilets 836 111, 118-19, 129, 138 766 Tale of Genji 375, 767, Tō-ji 283 Tokyo Bay 102-4, 119, sukiyaki 791 768, 805 Tōjinbō 275 129-30 sumō 22 Tamagawa Onsen 516 Tokachi 603-5 tourist information 140 INDEX Arashio Stable 102 Tamotsu, Yagi 415 Tokachi-dake Onsen 582-3 tours 105 Kawayu Sumō Museum Tanabe 400 Tokashiki-jima 746 travel seasons 66 -Tanegashima 729-31 Tokoname 212 travel to/from 141-3  S 597-8 Kyūshū Bashō Sumō Tango Peninsula 409-10 Tokugawa Ieyasu 773 travel within 143-5  T Tournament 655 Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Tokunoshima 733-4 Tsukiji 73-6, 107, 112, 120 Nagoya Bashō 205-6 Route 259 Tokushi, Katsuhira 518 Ueno 93-9, 110-11, 118, Ryōgoku Kokugikan Tatsuko 513 Tokushima 607-13, 622, 138, 96 132, 22 Tawarayama Onsen 459 611 Yanaka 98 Sumō Spring taxes 834 Tokushima Prefecture Tournament 347 Tokyo Disney Resort 104 taxis 846-7 607-21 Tokyo 132 Tokyo Joypolis 104 Tazawa-ko 512-15 Tokyo 66-145, 67, 70-1, 37 surfing Tokyo National Museum tea 798 accommodation 66, Chichi-jima 197 93-5 tea ceremonies 309, 461, 107-11 Tokyo Sky Tree 101, 125 Koigaura Beach 710 771, 798 Akihabara 92, 117-18, Tomakomai 573 Ohkinohama 629 Kamakura 121 137-8, 90 Tomo-no-ura 427-8 Shimoda 180 Kyoto 293, 309 Asakusa 99-102, 111, tonkatsu 793 Tanegashima 729, Ōzu 632 118-19, 129, 138, 100 730, 731 Tōno 496-9, 497 Tokyo 122 children, travel with 106 Tokushima 622 climate 66 Torajirō, Kojima 438 teahouses sushi 789-90, , courses 104-5 Tosa school 800 12 55 Dewa Sanzan 522 sustainable travel 822, 840 drinking 119-30 Tosa-wan 628 Jo- Teahouse 213 272-3 79-82, 108, 113-14, Tōshō-gū 159-60 Kyoto 323, 325 Suzuki, Daisetsu Teitaro 121-2, 134, 80 Tōshōdai-ji 390 Nara 386 263 emergencies 139 Tōson, Shimazaki 255 Okinawa-hontō 741-2 sweets 795 entertainment 130-2 Tottori 470-2 Sendai 487 festivals & events 105-6 Tottori Prefecture 470-3 Shimbara 682 food 66, 111-19 tourist information 836 T Tokyo 76, 93 Ginza 73-6, 107, 112, 120, Towada-ko 506-7, 507 Tachiarai 661 Yoshino 393 133-4, 74 Tōya-ko 568-9 taiko drumming 101, see technology museums, see Harajuku 84-6, 115-16, Toyama 258-9 also Kodo Drummers science & technology 123, 135-6, Earth Celebration 532 museums 85 258-9 highlights 67 Gojinjō Daikō Nabune telephone services 24, Toyotomi Hideyoshi 771-3 Matsuri 271 835-6 history 68 train travel 841, 847-51 Matsumoto-jō Taiko temples, see Buddhist Iidabashi 89-92, 110, 117, language 847 Matsuri 252 temples 137, 90 local trains 847 Takachiho 710-12, 711 tempura 791-2 itineraries 69, 98, 98 passes 848-50 Takamatsu 643-6, 644 Tenjin Matsuri 33, 347 Marunouchi 68-73, 107, subway 847 climate 606 Tenman-gū Shrine 661 112, 119-20, 133, 74 trainspotting Takamori, Saigō 692, 775 Tenman Tenjin 661 medical services 140 JR SCMAGLEV & Railway Takao 308 Tenmyouya, Hisashi 802 Meguro 79-82, 108, Park 211 113-14, 121-2, 134, Takao-san 168 Teshima 446 80 Modern Transportation nightlife 119-30 Museum 339 Takaragawa Onsen 166-7 textiles 288 Odaiba 102-4, 119, Umekōji Steam Takayama 218-25, 220 theatre 803-4 129-30, 103 Locomotive Museum accommodation 221-3 bunraku 354 Roppongi 76-9, 108, 113, 283 activities 218-21 Tokyo 131-2 120-1, 134, 78 trams 847 architecture 219 theme parks, see safety 139 transport 25, 61, 840-51 drinking 224-5 amusement parks Shibuya 82-4, 108-9, Trans-Siberian Railway 841 time 24, 836 food 223-4 114-15, 122-3, 134-5, travel seasons 24, 32-5, shopping 225 tipping 834 83, 19 see also individual sights 218-21 Tōdai-ji 381-3 Shinjuku 86-9, 109-10, regions travel to/from 225 Omizutori/Otaimatsu 384 116-17, 128-9, 136-7, travel to/from Japan 840-1 travel within 225 Togakushi 241 88, 124 travel within Japan 841-51 874 Tsukiji Fish Market 73-4, Komagatake 561 whaling 823 Yasunari, Kawabata 536, 789 Me-Akan-dake 600 white snakes 426 805 Tsumago 255-69, 23 Naka-dake 687-9 White Tiger samurai 477 Yawatahama 632 tsunami 479, see also O-Akan-dake 600 white-water rafting Yayoi people 764-5 earthquakes Osore-zan 508 617-18 Yobuko 663 Tsuruga 275 Sakurajima 693 Gunma Prefecture 166 Yokohama 149, 184-90, INDEX INDEX Tsurugi-san 621 Sanbe-san 469 wildlife 821-2 185 Tsuruoka 520-2 Shari-dake 593 wine Yonaguni-jima 759-60 Tsushima cat 822 Shinmoe-dake 701 Furano Wine Festival Yonezawa 526

T Tsuwano 451-4, 452 577 Yoritomo, Minamoto-no 

- Yōtei-zan 572 Z 494  tug of war 739 Yufu-dake 719 Furano Winery 576 Yoron-tō 735-8 tuna 508, 823 volunteering 838 Ikeda 604 Yoshimoto, Banana auctions 73 tsunami zone 483 women in Japan 785 806 fishing 508 women travellers 838 Yoshino 392-3 turtles 727 working 838-9 W World Foods Restaurant Yoshio, Taniguchi 415 wabi-sabi 801 675 Yoshitsune, Minamoto-no- 494 U Wadomari 734 writers 428 Uchiko 632-3 Yōtei-zan 572 wagyū beef 793 Bashō, Matsuo 474, 492, Udo-jingū 709 Wajima 271-2 494, 526 Yoyogi-kōen 86 udon 792 Wakkanai 583-5 Fumiko, Hayashi 428 Yudanaka 244 Ufan, Lee 444 walking Hearn, Patrick Lafcadio Yudono-san 523 Uji 304-5 Aso-san 689 455, 463, 682 Yufu-dake 719 ukai, see cormorant fishing Bandai Plateau 481 Kenzaburo, Ōe 805 Yufuin 718-19 ukiyo-e 86, 774, 800, 801 war memorials Kerr, Alex 619, 762 Yuki Matsuri 32, 550-1, Hokusai 243 Tokyo 89 Natsume, Sōseki 360 Japan Ukiyo-e Museum war museums 805 Yukio, Mishima 805 251 Anglo-Satsuma Museum Ōgai, Mori 453 Yumomi 165 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial 702 Ryū, Murakami 806 Yumoto Onsen 164 Art Museum 86 Former Japanese Navy WWII 702, 779-80 Yunomine Onsen 403 unagi 793 Underground Yunotsu 469-70 Unesco World Heritage Headquarters 743 Sites 308 Kamikaze Peace Y Universal Studios Japan Museum 702 Yaeyama Islands 750-60 Z 345-6 Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Yagaji-jima 743 Zamami-jima 745 Unzen 679-80 Museum 665-6 Yahata 654 Zaō Onsen 527-8 Unzen-Amakusa National National Shōwa yakitori 789 zazen 191 Park 679 Memorial Museum Yakuō-ji 621 Zenkō-ji 237 US military bases 744 89-90 Yakushi-ji 389-90 Gokaichō Matsuri Usa 714 Okinawa Prefectural 237 Yakushima 724-9, 725 Usuki 719-20 Peace Memorial legends 238 Museum 743 weather 726 Usuki Stone Buddhas 719 Zentsū-ji 641 Tachiarai Heiwa yakusugi, see cedars Uwajima 629-32, zoos 630 Kinenkan 661 yamabushi 522, 523 Arashiyama Monkey Yūshū-kan 89 Yamadera 526 Park Iwatayama V wasabi farm 257 Yamagata 524-5 303 vegans 799 Watarase Onsen 403 Yamagata Prefecture Asahiyama Zoo 573 520-8, vegetarians 799 weather 32-5 521 Bear Mountain 605 vine bridges 620 weights 829 Yamaguchi 447-50, 448 Chōshi-kei Valley Monkey visas 24, 837-8 Western Honshū 411-73, Yamanaka-ko 157 Park 442 volcanoes 412-13 yamaneko 756 Jigokudani Monkey Bandai-san 480 whale-watching 197, 628 Yamato-Yagi 390-1 Park 244 Iō-zan 597 Kerama Islands 745 Yashima 646 Ueno Zoo 99

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 860

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Chris Rowthorn the last edition and wrote to us with help- Special thanks to the fantastic author team on ful hints, useful advice and interesting this edition of Japan. I’d also like to thank the anecdotes: brilliant inhouse team: Emily Wolman, Barbara Luca Baiotti, Jon Bird, Helen Bonser, Oliver Delissen, Diana Von Holdt and all the others Bracko, Rosemary Candelario, Margaret who worked on this book. I’d also like to thank Cantrell, Agustina Capalbo, Marion Colledge, Jeffrey Friedl for his excellent photographs of Hannah Craggs, Rich Crossingham, Justin Tōdai-ji, Kana Hattori for her Kōbe picks, Mie Ito Dabner, Paul Das, Lois-ellin Datta, Giuseppe Di for more Kōbe picks, Michael Lambe for Kyoto Nuzzo, Yochay Doutsh, Mónica Durán, Andrew bar recommendations, and Paul Carty for his Dye, Sue Ellcome, George Fang, Heather input into the environment chapter. I’d also like Ferguson, Senan Fox, Jefferson Geck, Simone to thank my wife Hiroe for her incredible sup- Gribble, Mark Heylbut, Ikeda Hironobu, John port during this whole process. Plus thanks to Hoffmann, Torbjörn Janson, Noh Woo Jin, Shin all the readers who were kind enough to send in Eun Ju, Karolina Keydel, Kari Kostiainen, Katja your advice for the book. Finally, I’d like to thank Årosin Laursen, Mark Leggate, Jordan Lincez, all the kind people of Japan who made my re- Paul Malloy, Dorit Maoz, Vivien Mast, Kieran search trip such a joy. Matheson, Thomas Mayes, Laura Mazza, Anne Mclean, David E Michalik, Maya Morikawa, Andrew Bender Melody Ng, Sebastian Orre, Brent Osachuk, Yohko Scott, Nick Szasz, Baba Ryoko, Marc Jane Parry, Manuel J Porras, Michael Priest, Musteric, Rudy Nakaya, Taniguchi Yukiko, Sue- Moin Qazi, Esther Racoosin, Julie Robert, yasu Natsu, Odawara Kenji, Kuga Daisuke, Hario Jared Rosenthal, Rick Ross, Randy Schain, Naomi, Satomura Ryo, Nakamura Ryota, Inoue Johannes Schmid, Stephen Smith, Rudy Chika, Sakamoto Hisatoshi, Kawabata Akira, Snel, Jonathan Streit, Sara Stroman, Hiroshi Leo Bromberg, Remy Millot, Nagata Moyoru, Sugiura, Kyoji Takahashi, Caitlin Teremchuk, Morita Mikiko, Miyahara Ichido, Sean Casey, Mathilde Teuben, Robert Uramoto, Cees Kawano Saya, Steve Beimel, Nancy Craft and, Vellekoop, Adrianne Vos, Zhang Wei and Frans in house, Emily Wolman, Chris Rowthorn, David Wildenborg. Carroll, Lucy Birchley and Barbara Delissen. 861 BEHIND THE SCENES -

- - - - - Naomi Jason for hang for Jason Shahara Ahmed, team. otōtō 44. Japan 13 Larissa Frost, Jane Larissa Hart, Frost, Gene sys India, Jouve India, Chris AnneliesAck, Lee Mertens, Paton, Trent Korina Miller, Wibowo Rusli, Dianne Schall Kerrianne meiner, Southway, Juan Winata Walker, Gerard Cover Research Parker Internal Image Research Kylie McLaughlin Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Naoko Akamatsu, Anita Banh, David Carroll, Rebecca Chau, Ryan Evans, Penny Cordner, Hydrology and Earth System

­ 1633 11,

Susie Illustrations pp94-5 and pp382-3 by Michael by pp94-5 and pp382-3 Illustrations Weldon Bamboo Arashiyama photograph: Cover AWL. Pix Collection, Travel Kyoto. Grove, Special thanks go to Mitsu and Tae, Asada- Tae, and Mitsu to go Special thanks and Matthew Toru, Chikae, and Bartek san, Gon- Hiro, Nima, Kiku-san, Ezaki-san, Nori, Ayu. and Toshi-chan wife, and lovely san fellow Chris and all my Emily, to also Thanks this wonderful pulling together for authors my to Mad loves book. surrogate for Victoria ing with me in Ishigaki, medical emergency for Rod duty, dog-mom and translation genealogy for Roy advice, preserv for Whitney and and Laura wisdom, sanity. of sense fragile ing my ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World Classification’, Sciences, yashi-san, Jamie, Nakamura-san, Amy and Amy Nakamura-san, Jamie, yashi-san, Allan and Tom, Eri, Hiroko-san, Shimizu, Shiro on the everyone Benedict Walker guide this to contribution small my dedicate I Walk (Tony Dad passed: now teachers, my to Denise guru, my Cook), (Catherine Nanna er), Kato-Wilder. Nanayo friend my and Crundall, Japan with connection my recognised Each also Thanks it. explore to me encouraged and and Cheryl Cooks, Walkers, the families: my to to and Fauberts, and Delrues the Cowies, the much Finally, Japan. in Shimizus, the and Kaori al who Trish, mum, my to gratitude and love a took who Brintin, to and me, in believes ways dreams. my chase to me helped and risk Wendy Yanagihara - - Chris Girdler d - ’ Naghten, Naghten, Rosemary Neilson, Kristin Odijk, Amanda Williamson Assisting Cartographers JeffBašić, Fatima Cameron, Mick Garrett Managing Editors Bruce Delissen, Barbara Power, Martine Evans, Tinson Angela Managing Layout Designer Assisting Editors Jessica Ashworth, Crouch, Justin Kate Evans, Flynn, Gabrielle Innes, Carly Hall, Robyn Loughnane, Catherine

Frank Deim Frank Corey Corey Hutchison, Diana Von Holdt Coordinating Layout Designer Coordinating Editors Kate Mathews, Sophie Splatt Senior Cartographers Planet’s Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Emily K Wolman THIS BOOK This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Takayoshi-san, Maeda-san, Abe-san, Suzuki- Abe-san, Maeda-san, Takayoshi-san, Kuniyoshi-san, Ando-san, Tanaka-san, san, Koba Honda-san, Peter, Sosha, Ishiba-san, able! To my parents for first taking me to me to taking first for parents my To able! his superhuman for Chikara and to Tōhoku ‘just check out to and willingness patience helpful wonderful, these Also bar’. one more Nishimura-san, Kudo-san, people: Shinji, Rebecca Milner all over trekking Julian for to big thank you A invalu was company with me – your Tōhoku A hearty thanks to all those who helped all those to thanks hearty A my to all, of but most me out on the road, and living kanji wife beautiful exceptionally when I me know who let Yuriko, dictionary, brews! Hokkaidō local of daily quota had my and to all the travellers we met along the way way the along met we travellers the all to and in- the to thanks Finally, info. with helped who book. this on hard worked who team house Craig McLachlan many helpful staff at tourist offices across the the across offices tourist at staff helpful many O-shima, at Iwasaki Reiko particularly region; at Obinata Yoshihiko and Kageyama Hanako to Thanks Nikkō. at team the and Ogasawara, Fuji, and Ito House, K’s at staff the all and Nick Amrit for always cheering me on. cheering always Amrit for HoldenTrent Kate & Morgan shot a us giving for Emily to thanks Firstly, the to Thanks books. dream our of one at and Wes Lang for tips, Jools Collis for fine fine for Collis Jools tips, Lang for Wes and great and my insights, and foodie company K Emily Thank you Akamatsu. friend Naoko and big props and Chris Rowthorn, Wolman to thanks Lastly, team. Japan the in-house to locals and tourist office staff who shared rec who shared staff office tourist and locals Nicola to special arigatō with ommendations, in the Ujita-san and Sadkowsky Teresa Jones, Morgan Kate to thanks Osaka, In Oki Islands. Laura Crawford travellers, fellow to goes appreciation Much ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’