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aspect of this project. You’re amazing. Thanks OUR READERS also to my editor, Laura C, and other great folks at Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Lonely Planet. Shouts to James T, Mia Y, Adeline R, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Toru-san, Deea, Jamie, Miki H, Memory-san, Noriko- advice and interesting anecdotes: san, Satoko-san, and countless others who went Alberto Escribano, Alvin Hudec, Amandine Favier, the extra mile to make sure I could represent this Carlos Mendez, Christoph Ris, Connie Nakamura, amazing part of in the best possible way. Damping Wang, David Lee, Emma Dhesi, Eric Lauryn, Florence Petrie , Gertjan Martens, Harumi Murata, Andrew Bender Jade Johnston, James Martin, John Osman, Kaomi Special thanks to Yohko Scott, Matsuura Kei, Rose Goetz , Kevin Bruce, Kirsten Kinkead, Lisa Nolan, Tanasugarn, Urakami Masahiro, Taniguchi Takehiro, Lucy & Stuart Stirland, Madoka Aoyama, Marie Noro Randria, Colin Fukai, Hiraoka Hiroko, Hayashi Armstrong, Marina Ramos, Marjolein Stegeman, Mark Minako, Akagi Hideki, Hattori Katsuhiko, Brad Towle, Chesney, Megumi Takamori, Michael Jahn, Miriam Tabata Kumiko and every innkeeper, restaurant Vázquez, Niall Christie, Robin Kish, Sarah Dhesi, Tim owner and tourist information office staffer who put Glover, Tristram Wyatt, Yasutaka Hori, Yuko Kobayashi up with my niggling questions. You are the essence of omotenashi. WRITER THANKS Craig McLachlan Rebecca Milner A hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my living dictionary Thank you to everyone on the Japan team. Laura, and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko. Gratitude thank you for giving me so many opportunities. also to Nezia, who let her husband and my buddy, Simon and Craig, thank you for your advice. Thank Paul, come along for his pilgrimage. And of you to Ross, Tomoko, Roberto, -san, Kokubu-san, course, thanks to Kōbō Daishi, who looked over us on Watanabe-san, Will, Max, Jon, Andy and Shannon for our journey. your time, tips, conversation and company. Thank you to my husband and family for always encourag- Kate Morgan ing me, even if it means long absences. A huge thank you to Destination Editor Laura, for giving me the opportunity to work on a dream gig Ray Bartlett and for all of your assistance throughout. A big No-one deserves thanks more than my family, who arigatou gozaimasu to Kengo Nakao from the dealt with me disappearing and supported every Tourist Information office for all of your help, also to 913 Keiji Shimizu for your assistance and Motoki Ito for Wendy Yanagihara some great local tips. And finally, to my partner, Many thanks to those who offered me insight, Trent, who I missed travelling with on this trip, context and companionship, especially Tsuchiya thanks for all of your support. Keiko, Yokoyama Ikuyo and Shin in Shimoda, Karina and Oscar in Toi, Ezaki Sachiyo and Junta in Amami, Simon Richmond Endo Satoko in Nikkō, Utsumi Shino in Matsuzaki, My thanks to Hollie Mantle, Will Andrews, Yoshizawa Michael and Doug in Fuji-Yoshida, Toita Yoshiyuki SCENES THE BEHIND Tomoko, Toshiko, Kenichi, Chris, Giles, Steve and and Yun Yongdu in Ishigaki and Ogata-san in Emiko, and my co-author Rebecca. Yokohama. Thank you Laura, Rebecca, and Imogen Tom Spurling for being such delights to work with. Love to my incredible support system: Sanchita, Whitney, To the yamasbushi who walk the mountains of Victoria, Jason and Jasper. Tohoku, for carrying on. To every fellow onsen bather, for the bum flash in the woods. To every ryokan operator, for sweeping those tatamis ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS clean. To the shinkansen, for the green car. To the not-so-shinkansen, for winding me through Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson gorgeous valleys. To the tachinomi, for letting me BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of stand up and drink to this wonderful country. Oh, the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- and to Mum, Lucy, Oliver, Poppy, , Tez, Mia, ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Evie, Lex, Fred. And to Dad for not coming. Illustrations pp98-9 and pp396-7 by Michael Weldon. Phillip Tang Cover photograph: Red-blossomed plum tree, Massive thanks to Xavier 邹嘉 for sky-high views, Kyoto, Masanori Shimizu/500px © rainbows, weddings, and luggage offloading. Thanks 郝成义for making Fukuyama and Miyajima come alive. Thank you Eric Mikuski, Ayako Noguchi and Nic Williamson for soul-enrichment, and Dale Stein for Okayama tips. I’m ever-grateful to the tourism-office angels, and to Laura Crawford for sharing Western Honshū again. Benedict Walker This is for Aunty Bonnie, who gave me my first LP guide (Japan) when I was just a boy, and who waited until I returned from this research, for one last goodbye. Thanks to her oncologist, Dr. Sanjiv Gupta and to Mum, Collywolly and Meg, for your unfaltering care; to Michelle and Saralinda (my editors), for your patience and to Laura Crawford, whose kindness and trust allowed me to always be in the right place at the right time. Finally, thanks to my friends on the road: Grahame Roth, Kaori and Takashi Shimizu, Taku Yamada and Yuko Yasuoka. Love all round.

Destination Editor Laura Odijk, Monique Perrin, THIS BOOK Crawford Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda This 15th edition of Lonely Product Editor Sandie Kestell Turner, Maja Vatrić, Simon Williamson Planet’s Japan guidebook was Senior Cartographer Diana researched and written by von Holdt Cover Researcher Naomi Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Parker Assisting Cartographers Andrew Bender, Craig McLa- Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Thanks to Naoko Akamatsu, chlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Gabe Lindquist, Alison Lyall Heather Champion, Kate Richmond, Tom Spurling, Chapman, Katie Connelly, Joel Book Designer Gwen Cotter Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker Cotterell, Victoria Harrison, Assisting Editors Imogen and Wendy Yanagihara. This Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Bannister, Michelle Bennett, guidebook was produced by Patterson, Kathryn Pete Cruttenden, Gabrielle the following: Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Dianne Innes, Helen Koehne, Kristin Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 914

Index

88 Temples of Shikoku 654, Ainu culture 633 Anraku-ji 290 museums 111, 237, 269, 650-1 Ainu museums Aomori 526-9, 528 405-6, 708, 761 Temple 1 649 Ainu Culture Promotion Aomori Prefecture 525-37, Naoshima 17 Temple 2 649 Centre 595, 597 527 Osaka 359, 362, 30 Temple 3 649 Ainu Folklore Museum 629 Aoni Onsen 532 Taishō-era 702 Temple 4 649 Hakodate Museum of Aoshima 766-7 14, 30, 91, 14 Temple 5 649 Northern Peoples 637 aquariums 550-1, 793, area codes 25 Temple 21 663 Hokkaidō Ainu Center 580 369, 760 Arita 713-14 Temple 38 669 Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Arashiyama Bamboo Grove art galleries & art museums, Memorial Hall 602 Temple 45 681 323-4 see also craft & folk Museum of Ainu Folklore Temple 51 671 archaeological sites & art museums, design 631 museums museums Temple 66 694 835-6 Dazaifu Exhibition Hall 708 21st Century Museum of Temple 73 691 Ainu villages 629 Folk Archaeological Contemporary Art 252 Temple 74 691 air travel 891-2 Museum 237 3331 Arts Chiyoda 97 Temple 84 689-90 Aizu-Wakamatsu 566-8 kofun 458, 761, 822 Abeno Harukas Art Temple 85 689 Aka-jima 794-6 Kashihara Museum 367 Temple 88 687 Akan National Park 627-34, Archaeological Museum Adachi Museum of Art 476 Temple 41 683 628-9, 42-3 405-6 Akita Museum of Art 537 Temple 42 683 Akanko Onsen 628-31 Saitobaru Archaeological Anno Art Museum 490 2020 Summer Olympics 28, Museum 761 Akita 537-40, 540 Aomori Museum of 816, 871 Saitobaru Burial Mounds Art 526 Akita Prefecture 537-45, 538 Park 761 Asakura Museum of Akiyoshi-dai Quasi-National Sannai Maruyama Site 526 Sculpture, Taitō 102 A Park 488 Uenohara Jōmon-no- BankART Studio NYK 195 Abashiri 621-2 Amami Islands 778-85 Mori 761 Benesse House Museum accommodation 26, 866-9, Amami-Ōshima 778-81, 780 880-2, see also individual architects 863-5 461 Ameya-yokochō 150, locations 30 Ando Tadao 83, 379, Chibajo Annexe 731 amusement parks costs 59, 881 461, 865 Chichū Art Museum 461 Fuji-Q Highland 163 etiquette 867 Ban Shigeru 865 Complex 665 83 Hanayashiki 113 language 905 Ito Toyo 865 Echigo-Tsumari Art Field Tokyo Disney Resort 113 love hotels 137, 374 Kikutake Kiyonori 864 563 Tokyo Dome City manga kissa 137 Kurokawa Kisho 864 Fukuoka Asian Art Attractions 113 Museum 699 minshuku 868 Maki Fumihiko 864 Tokyo Joypolis 113 Pei, IM 428 Gallery Koyanagi 80 ryokan 12, 334, 866-8, 13 Universal Studios Japan Ryue Nishizawa 865 Ginza Graphic Gallery 80 shukubō 868-9 370-1 Sejima Kazuyo 865 Gokayama -no- activities 32-5, see also Yokohama Cosmoworld Shinohara Kazuo 864 sato 248 individual activities, 193 individual locations Tange Kenzo 864 Hagi Uragami Museum Anan Coast 644-56 494 addresses 897 Wright, Frank Lloyd 864 animals 875-6, see also Hakone Museum of Aikawa 558-9 architecture 863-5, , , individual species 14 30 Art 172 aikido 870-1 see also architects, anime 861-2 Hakone Open-Air Museum Ainokura 248 historic buildings, festivals 115 individual buildings 172 Ghibli Museum 110-11 gasshō-zukuri 236, 864 Hayashibara Museum of Art 455 Mandarake Complex -era 702 Map Pages 000 149, 151 Hida Takayama Museum Meiji-mura 864 Photo Pages 000 Miyazaki, Hayao 52, 861 of Art 236 modern 14, 30 915 Hiroshima City Museum Shimane Prefectural Art authors Sunayama Beach 798 of Contemporary Museum 474-5 Ihara Saikaku 860 Sunset Beach 803 Art 440 Shiseido Gallery 80 Kanehara Hitomi 860-1 Takanazaki 812-13 Hiroshima Prefectural Shōji Ueda Museum of Matsuo Basho 548 Takezaki-kaigan 777 Art Museum 440 Photography 481 Murakami Haruki 860-1 Tatado 182 Hokkaidō Museum of Shoko Modern Art 580 Murakami Ryu 860-1 Tatami-ishi 797

Museum 184 INDEX Natsume Soseki 65 Terasaki-kaigan 784 Hokusai Museum 286 Sumida Hokusai Imaemon Gallery 713 Museum 105 Wataya Risa 860-1 Toguchi-no-hama 802 Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Suntory Museum of Yanagita Kunio 519 Tomori-kaigan 779 Art Museum 261 Art 83-4 Yoshimoto Banana 860-1 Tsuki-ga-hama 809 A-B Japan Ukiyo-e Museum Taikan Bonsai Museum autumn-foliage viewing 877 Wai Beach 211 269 286 Himeji 390 Yonaha-Maehama 798 Kamakura National Takamatsu City Museum Kyoto 303, 318, 323 Yonehara Beach 803 Treasure Museum 189 of Art 686 Osaka 364-5 Yoshino-kaigan 799 Kubota Itchiku Art Teshima Yokoo House 465 awamori 792 bears 608, 626, 875 Museum 164 Tokugawa Art Museum Awa-odori Matsuri 647 beer 581, 850-2 Kuroda Memorial Hall 101 218 Azumino 273-5 breweries 581-2 Kutaniyaki Art Museum Tokushima Modern Art festivals 197 262 Museum 645 museums 85, 579 Kyoto Municipal Museum Tokyo Gallery + BTAP 80 B Benesse Art Site 460-2 of Art 320 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien baggage forwarding 28, 893 Kyoto National Museum Art Museum 86-7 bamboo 323-4, 739, 741 Beppu 739-46, 740, 742 Bessho Onsen 289-90 311-12 TOP Museum 85 Bandai Plateau 568-70, 569 Lee Ufan Museum 461 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial bargaining 27 bicycle travel, see cycling Matsumoto City Museum Museum of Art 91-2 baseball 870 Biei 604-5, 606-7 of Art 267-8 ’Umi’ Museum of bathhouses 65 birdwatching 187, 211, 265 METoA Ginza 80 Contemporary Art 291 bathrooms 888 Bise 794 MOA Museum of Art 175 Watari Museum of Bizen 460 beaches 31, 20 Contemporary Art 92 Mori Art Museum 81, 83 Amami-no-Sato 779 Blakiston line 609 Yamatane Museum of Nagoya/Boston Museum Aragusuku-kaigan 799 boat cruises & boat tours of Fine Arts 219 Art 85 Aze Prince Beach 782 Abashari 621 City Traditional Arts Yokohama Museum of Akan-ko 630 Art 193 Boraga Beach 799 & Crafts Center 787 Geibi Gorge 517-18 artists Eef Beach 797 Naoshima 17, 460, 17 Iriomote-jima 809-10 Asakura Fumio 102 Goishi Kaigan 523 Narukawa Art Museum Matsue 476 174 Hokusai 854 Hate-no-hama 797 Matsushima 510-11 National Art Center Kusama Yayoi 268 Hōraine-kaigan 211 Otaru 593 Tokyo 84, 4 Miyazaki Hayao 52, 861 Hoshisuna-no-hama 809 Shimokita Peninsula 536 National Museum of Murakami Takashi 857 Ida-no-hama 809 Modern Art 320 Irita 182 Shiretoko National Ogiwara Rokuzan 273 Park 627 National Museum of Otake Shinro 65 Issō-kaisuiyokujō 773 Modern Art (MOMAT) Tokushima 647 arts 17, 854-62, , see Kabira-wan 803 77-8 17 Towada-ko 533 also books, dance, Kaiji-hama 811-12 boat travel 468, 500, 894, Neiraku Art Museum 394 kabuki, music, nō, Katsura-hama 663 see also boat cruises & Nezu Museum 92 pottery, public art, Kondoi Beach 812 boat tours Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum puppet theatre, theatre Mushiroze 782 bonsai 286 of Art 201 festivals 115-16, 857 Nagahama-kaigan 777 books 441, 816, 839, 854, Noritake Gallery 218 Asahidake Onsen 610-11 Nagamahama 798 857, 859-61 Ōhara Museum of Art 469 Asahikawa 602-4 Nagata Inaka-hama 773 food 841, 848 Okada Museum of Art 171 Ashizuri-misaki 668-9 Nakanoshima Beach 802 history 819, 820, 833 Otsuka Museum of Art Aso-san 734-7, 736 Neshiko Beach 712 novels 441, 873 649, 652 Asuka 406-7 Nishihama 812 bovine sumo 683, 781 Place M 95 Atami 175 Oganeku-kaigan 784 breweries Pola Museum of Art 173 ATMs 885 Ōhama 182 beer 581-2 RIAS Ark Art Gallery 523 Atomic Bomb Dome 435, Ōhama-kaihin-kōen 779 miso 540 Rokuzan Bijutsukan 273 439 Ōkinohama 668 sake 164-5, 385, 444 Sado Hanga-mura atomic bombs Sakibaru-kaigan 779 soy sauce 540 Museum 558 Hiroshima 435, 439, 440 Senjō-jiki 421 Buddhism 819, 820 SCAI the Bathhouse 104 Nagasaki 714-15, 718 Shinri-hama 797 Buddhist statues Shimada Museum of Atsuta-jingū 220 Art 731 Shirara-hama 421 Byakui Dai-kannon 292 916 Daibutsu (Nara) 15, Toyama 265 Tsuwano-jō 490 climbing, see also hiking 396-7 15, 396, 397 Yakushi-ji 403 Uwajima-jō 683 Kamikōchi 276 Kunisaki Peninsula 747 Yamadera 547-8 cathedrals, see churches & Minakami Onsen-kyo 294 Nehan-zō 727 488 cathedrals Mt Fuji 159-62 Shōhō-ji ( Great Yamato Plain 406 caves Yōtei-zan 598 Buddha) 228 Yoshino 407 Akiyoshi-dō 488 coffee 851-2

INDEX INDEX Buddhist temples, see budget travel 59-60 -no-Yasukawara 748 Confucian shrines 721 also individual temples, budgeting 881, 883 Fugaku Fuketsu 166 consulates 882-3 88 Temples of Shikoku, Genbudō 431 Kyoto temples bullfighting 683, 782 227,

B-C Narusawa Hyōketsu 166 228, 229  Bessho Onsen 289-90 bunraku, see puppet theatre Shōryū-dō 783 cosplay 220 Chūzen-ji Onsen 207  burakumin 836 Tōri-ike 802 costs Daigo-ji 314, 338 bus travel 28, 894-5, 898 cell phones 24, 887 accommodation 59, 881 Dazaifu 708 business hours 25, 886 cemeteries budget travel 59-60 264 butō 859 Foreigners’ Cemetery 638 food 883 Fukuoka 699 Byōdō-in 320 Oku-no-in 14, 410, train travel 898-903 Gifu 228 15 Yanaka-reien 102, 104 courses Hagi 494-5 central Hokkaidō 588-602 cooking 114-15, 330-1, Hida-Furukawa 241 C central Honshū 66, 212-96, 848 Hiraizumi 517 calligraphy 855 214-15 crafts 115 Hirosaki 529 camping 880 climate 212 drumming 560 Hōryū-ji 403 canyoning 683 food 56 ikebana 115 Kaga Onsen 262-3 Cape Toi 767 highlights 214 meditation 190 Kamakura 187-90 capsule hotels 59, 881 hiking 61 pottery 496, 545 Kanazawa 254 car travel 25, 895-7 travel to/within 213 craft & folk art museums Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313, car hire 896-7 cherry-blossom viewing 12, Akarenga-kan Museum 340 driving licences 895 33, 875, 13 537 Kōya-san 14, 410-12 fuel 896 Hase-dera 406 Beppu Traditional Kumamoto 731 road rules 897 Hikone 426 Bamboo Crafts Centre Matsushima 510 castles 19, 29-30, 19 739, 741 Kyoto 308, 311 Miyajima 447 Echizen-Ōno-jō 265 Craft Centre & Museum Maruyama-kōen 12 Nagahama 428 Fukuoka-jō 699 218 Tokyo 90, 95, 104, 115 Nagano 280 Gifu-jō 228 Crafts Gallery 78 Yoshino 407 Nagasaki 718, 719 Hikone Castle 426, 428 Fureai-Kan Kyoto Chichibu 198-200 Nagoya 219 Himeji-jō 19, 389-90 Museum of Traditional Chichi-jima 209-10 Crafts 320 Nara 394-5 Hirado-jō 712 Chiiori 658 Gasshō-zukuri Folk Nikkō 203 Hirosaki-jō 529 children, travel with 52-3, Village 246 Noto Peninsula 259, 260 Hiroshima-jō 439 85, see also individual Hakata Machiya Oku-no-in 14, 410, 15 Inno-shima 452 regions Furusato-kan 699 Onomichi 450 Inuyama-jō 225 Chinatown (Yokohama) Hida Folk Village 236 Osaka 366-7 Karatsu-jō 709 195-6 Hirayu Folk Museum 243 Ōtsu 426 Kōchi-jō 663 Chion-in 314 Imari City Ceramic Senso-ji 104-5, 127 Kumamoto-jō 731 Chiran 758 Merchant’s Museum Shikotsu-Tōya National Marugame-jō 690 Chiringashima 759 710-11 Park 597 Matsue-jō 474 Chōkoku-no-Mori 172 Ino Japanese Paper Shimoda 178 Matsumoto-jō 19, 267 Christians 490, 711, 826 Museum 663 Shimokita Peninsula 536 Matsuyama-jō 671 churches & cathedrals Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Shimonoseki 498 Nagoya-jō 218 Chapel of St Maria 490 Products & Crafts Shuzen-ji Onsen 184 Nijō-jō 305-6 Orthodox Church 638 252-3 Takao-san 199 Obi-jō 767 Ōura Catholic Church 719 Japan Folk Crafts Takayama 236 Okayama-jō 455 St Francis Xavier Museum 89 Tokyo 80, 84, 87, 102, Osaka-jō 364-5, 2 Memorial Church 488 Kakunodate Cherry-Bark 104-5, 107 Ōzu-jō 682 Tsuwano Catholic Craft Center 541 Church 490 Tomo-no-ura 454 Sendai Castle Ruins 506 Kihōin Shūshūkan 811 Urakami Cathedral 715 Tōshōdai-ji 405 Shimabara-jō 727 Kumamoto Prefectural Chūzen-ji Onsen 206-7 Shuri-jō 789, 44 Traditional Crafts cinema, see anime, films Takamatsu-jō 686 Centre 731 Map Pages climate 24, 32-5, , see 000 Takayama-jō 237 24 Kurashiki Museum of Photo Pages also individual regions Folk-craft 470 000 Tsuruga-jō 567 917 Kusakabe Folk Crafts d47 Museum 89 events, see festivals & Shōdo-shima 468 Museum 237 Design Festa 91 events Takayama 237-8 Kyūshū Ceramic International Design exchange rates 25 Tokushima 647 Museum 713 Centre Nagoya 219 Tokyo 115-16 Miyako Crafts Workshop Dewa Sanzen 551-3 Tsumago 231 Village 799 F disabilities, travellers with ferry travel 468, 500, 894 Tsuwano 492

Museum of Oriental 888-9 INDEX festivals & events 22, Yamagata 545 Ceramics 363-4 diving 32-5, 23 Yokohama 197 Myōzen-ji Folk Museum Iriomote-jima 809 246 Akita 537, 539 films 445, 816, 861, 872,

Ishigaki-jima 803 C-F Naha City Traditional Arts anime 115 878 Miyako-jima 799 fishing 813, see also  Crafts Center 787 Aomori 526 & Okinawa 793 cormorant fishing Ogi Folk Museum 560 Asahikawa Winter Sanuki Folkcraft Museum Southwest Islands 779 Matsuri 602-3 food 12, 54-8, 60, 840-53, 685 Yonaguni-jima 813-14 Dewa Sanzan 552 883, 12, 54, 57, 58, see also individual foods, Taketomi Mingei-kan 811 Dōgashima 183 Earth Celebration 561 individual regions Togakushi Folk Museum Dōgo 480 Fukuoka 702-3 cookery courses 114-15, & Ninja House 285 Dōzen Islands 480 Fuji-Yoshida 163 330-1, 848 Tōno Folk Village 519-20 drinks 849-52 Hida-Furukawa 242 costs 60, 883 Tsuboya Pottery awamori 792 Himeji 390 etiquette 841 Museum 787 coffee 851-2 Hirado 712 izakaya 842 Uchiwa-no-Minato language 840-52, 907 Hirosaki 529-30 Museum 690-1 Kagoshima cuisine 751 sake 851 Hiroshima 441 Yamaguchi Furusato kaiseki 848 shōchū 755, 851-2 Inuyama 227 Heritage Centre 488 Kōbe beef 387, 846 tea 56, 851-2, 853 Ise-Shima 424 language 58, 905-7 crafts 257, 799, 854-6, see tea ceremonies 56, 331- also individual crafts 484 Miyazaki cuisine 765 2, 856, 56 cranes 635 Kagoshima 751 okonomiyaki 57 driving, see car travel credit cards 885 Kakunodate 541 sashimi 54 currency 24, 885 Kamakura 190 Shinshū cuisine 283 customs regulations 882 E Kanazawa 254 shokudō 841-2 cycling 242, 893-4 earthquakes 874 Karatsu 709 soy sauce 409, 466 Kibi Plain 458 2016 Kumamoto Kōbe 386 specialities 843-8 Earthquake 734 Kōchi 665 Setouchi Shimanami sushi 843-4, 12 Great East Japan Kaidō 451 Kōya-san 413 vegan 848-9 Earthquake 524, Shimanami Kaidō 672 Kumamoto 731 816, 878 vegetarian 848-9 Tōno 521 Kyoto 332, 23 Great Kantō Earthquake yakitori 842-3, 58 192-3 Matsue 476 food markets 31, 846 eastern Hokkaidō 621-36 Matsumoto 269-70 Hakodate 636-7 D Miyajima 448 Daibutsu (Nara) 15, 396-7 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 563-4 Kanazawa 249 Miyazaki 764 15, 396, 397 Echizen-Ōno 265 Kyoto 304-5, 321, 354 Naeba 564 Daigo-ji 314, 338 economics 816-17 Naha 787 Nagano 280 Daihonzan Eihei-ji 264 669-85 Takayama 241 Nagasaki 721 Daisen 481-2 -dō 318 Tokyo 79, 80, 94-5, 109, Nagoya 220 Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen electricity 882 130, 30 612-13 embassies 882-3 Naoshima 461 Tsukiji Market 79-80 Daisetsuzan National Park emergencies 25 Nara 399 Fuji Five Lakes 158-67 609-13, 606-7 Engaku-ji 187 Nikkō 204 Fuji Sengen-jinja 163 Daitoku-ji 308-9 Enoshima 191 northern Honshū Fuji-Yoshida 163-4 (Tōhoku) 541 Daitsū-ji 428 -ji 327 Fukui 263-4 Noto Peninsula 261 dance 749, 857-8 environment 874-8 Fukuji Onsen 244 Nozawa Onsen 287-8 Bizan 645 environmental issues 482, Fukuoka 698-707, 700 Okayama 455 butō 859 486, 702, 877-8 accommodation 703-4 Osaka 371-2 geisha 21, 351 Esashi 640 climate 695 Ōtsu 426 Kyoto 351 etiquette 27 drinking 705 Sado-ga-shima 557 dangers, see safety accommodation 867 entertainment 705 Sanriku Kaigan 522 Dazaifu 707-8 food 841 festivals & events 702-3 Sapporo 582, deer 393-4, 794 geisha 873 676 food 704-5 Sendai 506 design museums onsen 64 internet access 706 Shimonoseki 498-9 21_21 Design Sight 83 shrines 838 medical services 706 918 nightlife 705 gasshō-zukuri 236, 864 Azumino 274 entertainment 444 shopping 705-6 gay travellers 136, 883 Bandai Plateau 568 festivals & events 441 sights 699-702 geisha 21, 872-3, 21, 338 Daisetsuzan National food 442-3 tourist information 706 costumes 873 Park 610 highlights 436-7 travel to/within 706-7 dances 351 Haha-jima 211 hiking 62 Fukushima nuclear incident entertainment 873 Hakkōda-san 534 internet access 444 INDEX INDEX 566, 878 etiquette 873 Hakuba 277-8 itineraries 443 Fukushima Prefecture history 872 Hirado 712 nightlife 443-4 566-70 geography 874-8 Iriomote-jima 809 shopping 444 F-H Furano 605-9, 606-7, 677 Gifu 227-9 Ishizuchi-san 680 tourist information 445 Fushimi Inari-Taisha 303-4, Jōgasaki-kaigan 177 Ginkaku-ji 319 tours 441  340 Ginzan Onsen 550 Kamakura 190 travel to/within 445 Gion 315 Kamikōchi 276 G Gion Matsuri 33, 23 Kirishima-yaku National Museum 16, 439, 16 Park 761 Garan 411 Go-Daigo 823 historic buildings Kuro-dake 611 gardens 29, 865, see also go-karting 112 Buke Yashiki Kyūshū 708, 739 Residence 474 parks Gokayama 245-8 Magome-Tsumago Hike Gessōtei 777 Canadian Embassy Gokayama district 247-8 Stone Garden 84 232 Kikuya Residence 493 Gōra 172 Fujita Memorial Garden Mashū-dake 632 Kita-ke 259 Great Buddha, see Daibatsu 529 Me-Akan-dake 629-30 (Nara) Kumagai Residence 485 Fukushū-en 787 Miyajima 447 green turtles 211 Ōhashi House 469 Garyū-sansō 682 Miyama-chō 430 Gujō- 230 Ōta Residence 453-4 Genkyū-en 428 Mt Fuji 159-62 Gunma Prefecture 292-6 Shiroyama Elementary Glover Garden 719, 722 Naruko Onsen 513 School 717 Gyokusen Inmaru Niseko 590 Tōkaikan 176 Garden 252 H Northern Honshū Wada-ke 246 Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien Hachijō-jima 186-7 (Tōhoku) 553 Zuihō-den Mausoleum 80 Hachikō Statue 87 O-Akan-dake 630 506 Hokkaidō University Hagi 493-7, 494 Oku-Tama 199 historic sites 824 Botanical Gardens 580 Haha-jima 210-11 Panorama-dai 167 Dejima 717-18 Imperial Palace East haiku 859-60 Rebun-tō 617 Dutch Slopes 719, 721 Garden 75, 77 Hakkōda-san 534-5 Rishiri-tō 619-20 Iimori-yama 567 Isui-en 394 Hakodate 636-40, 637 Shari-dake 623 Yōkaichi Historic District Kenroku-en 252 Hakone 167-74, 168 Shikoku 689 680 Kiyosumi-teien 107 Hakone-machi 174 Sōun-zan 173 history 818-34, see also Koishikawa Kōrakuen 95 Hakone-Yumoto 170-1 Takao-san 198 individual regions Kōkō-en 390 Hakuba 277-80 Tarumae-zan 600 ancient Japan 818-19 Kōraku-en 455 Hakui 259 Tazawa-ko 542-3 atomic bombings 435, Kyoto Botanical Gardens 439, 440, 714-15, 718 253 Tokachi-dake 613 308 courtiers 820-1 hanami, see cherry- Towada-ko 533 Meiji-jingū Gyoen 89, 139 historical periods 822 blossom viewing, Unzen 729 Mori-no Beer Garden 139 Hōjō shogunate 821-4 plum-blossom viewing 773-4 Mōtsū-ji 517 Imperialist Japan 832-4 Hase-dera 189, 406 Yōtei-zan 598 Noritake Garden 218 modernisation 830 Hashima 726 Yumoto Onsen 207 Rikugi-en 104 Mongol invasions 823 Hateruma-jima 812-13 Hikone 426-8 Sankei-en 196 mysticism 819 Hattōji 459 Himeji 389-91, 389 Sekirei 139 reunification 824-6 health 883-4 Himi 259 Sengan-en (Iso-teien) 750 Southwest Islands 770 Hearn, Lafcadio 478 Himiko 819 Shikina-en 787 Tokugawa rule 827-8 Hedo-misaki 794 Hirado 711-13 Shukkei-en 439-40 Heian-jingū 320-1 Westernisation 831 Suizenji-jōjuen 731 Hiraizumi 517-19, 518 hells 729, 741, 745 WWII 833-4 Tokugawa-en 218 Hirara 798-801, 800 Hida Region 234-48 Yamato Clan 819-20 Yoshiki-en 394 Hirayu Onsen 243-4 Hida-Furukawa 241-2 hitching 897 Yūshien Garden 475-6 Hirosaki 529-32, 530 Higashi Hongan-ji 299 Hiwasa 653 Hiroshima 16, 67, 434-45, Hokkaidō 20, 42-3, 68, Higashi-Iya 659-60 , , 436-7 438 37 571-640, 42, 572-3, hiking 18, 61-2, 233, 18, see accommodation 441-2 Map Pages 000 also climbing 20, 42-3 climate 434 Photo Pages 000 Asahi-dake 610 accommodation 571 drinking 443-4 919 climate 571, 574 J Karuizawa 290-2 Kusatsu Onsen 295-6 driving 576 Jakkō-in 328 Kasaoka Islands 472-3 Kushimoto 420 food 57, 571 Japan Alps 66, 212-96, Kashihara 405-6 Kushiro 634-5 highlights 572-3 214-15 Kashihara-jingū 405 Kushiro-shitsugen National hiking 62 food 56 Kasuga Taisha 397, 38-9 Park 635-6, 43 history 574 highlights 214 Kawaguchi-ko 156, 164-6 Kyoto 67, 297-357, 298, itineraries 43, 42 hiking 61 Kawayu Onsen 631-4 300-1, 304, 306, 308, INDEX national parks 574-5 901 kayaking 209, 447, 810 312, 316-17, 322, 324, , , , safety 575 , see Kenchō-ji 187-8 2 10 338 341

accommodation 332-7 H-K travel to/within 575-7 language kendō 871 activities 330-2 248-66 835-9 Kenzō, Tange 16 climate 297 holidays 886 Jingo-ji 329-30 Kerama Islands 20, 794-7 courses 330-1 Hōnen-in 319 Jōzankei 595-8 Kesennuma 523 drinking 348-50 Hongū 417-18 judo 871 Kibune 328-9, 347, 329 entertainment 350-2 Honmyō-ji 731 Kii Peninsula 408-22, 410 festivals & events Hōryū-ji 403 Kii-Katsuura 419-20 K 332, 23 hot springs, see hells, onsen kimono 98, 873 kabuki 858 food 56, 337-48 Kyoto 350 Kinkaku-ji 321-2, 10-11 highlights 298 I Shōdo-shima 468 Onsen 431-3 hiking 62 Ibusuki 758-60, 474 Tokyo 143 Kirishima-yaku National history 299 Park 760-2 ikebana 824, 856-7 Uchiko 680 internet resources 355 Kaeda Gorge 766 Kisami 182 Ikema-jima 798-9 itineraries 39, 303, 38 Kiso Valley Nakasendō Ikuchi-jima 452-3 Kaga Onsen 262-3 230-4 medical services 354 Ikumi 655 685-94 Kitakata 570 nightlife 348-50 Imari 710-11 Kagoshima 750-6, 752-3 Kitakyūshū 702 orientation 354 immigration 889-90 kaiseki 848 Kitamuki Kannon 289-90 shopping 352-4 Imperial Palace 75, 77 Kakunodate 540-2 Kitano Tenman-gū 321 sights 299-330 Inno-Shima 452 Kamaishi 525 Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō 102 tourist information 354-5 insurance 884 Kamakura 187-92, 188 travel agencies 355 Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313, internet access 884 Kamigamo-jinja 309-10 340 travel seasons 297 internet resources 48, 61, kamikaze 706, 758, 823 travel to/within 355-6 Kōbe 382-9, 384 68, 844, 849, 850 Kamikōchi 22, 275-7, 22 Kōbe beef 387, 846 travel within 356-7 Inujima 464 Kanaya Ryokan 178 Koboke 660-1 walking tours 350 Inuyama 225-7, 226 Kanazawa 19, 249-58, Kyoto Imperial Palace Kōchi 662-7, 664 Iō-jima 777 250-1, 19 306-8, 310 Kōchi Prefecture 662-9 Iriomote-jima 20, 808-11 accommodation 254-5 Kyoto Station 299, 338, Kōdai-ji 313 Ise-Shima 422-6, 423 drinking 256 341 Kōfuku-ji 394, 718 Ishigaki-jima 20, 802-8, entertainment 256 Kyoto temples Koganechō 196 807, 20 festivals & events 254 Chion-in 314 Kō-jima 767 Ishinomaki 511-13 food 255-6 Daitoku-ji 308-9 Konpira-san 691-3 Ishizuchi-san 679-80 history 249 Eikan-do 318 Korea 500 islands, see individual nightlife 256 Ginkaku-ji 318 Kōri-jima 793-4 islands shopping 256-7 Gio-ji 325 itineraries 36-45, 36, 38, sights 249, 252-4 Kotohira 691-4, 692 Higashi Hongan-ji 299 41, 42, 45, 46-7, see travel to/within 258 Kowakidani 171-2 Honen-in 318 also individual regions Kannawa Hells Area 741-6, Kōya-san 14, 409-15, Jakk-in 328 Itō 175-8 , 745 412 15 Jojakko-ji 325 Itsukushima-jinja 22, Kublai Khan 823 Kanonji 694 Kennin-ji 315 446-7, 677 Kansai 67, 360-1 Kumamoto 730-4, 732 Kinkaku-ji 321, 322 449 climate 358 Kumano Kodō 415-16, 18 Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313, Iwami Ginzan 485-6 food 56 Kume-jima 797-8 340, 340 Iwate Prefecture 514-22, highlights 360-1 Kunisaki Peninsula 747 Kodai-ji 313 515 hiking 62 Kurama 328, 329 Konchi-in 318 Iya Valley 656-8, 657 travel passes 381 Kurama-dera 328-9 Kurama-dera 329-30 Izu Islands 185-7 travel seasons 358 Kurashiki 469-72, 470 Kzan-ji 330 Izumo 484-5 karaoke 850 622 Myoshin-ji 323 Izumo Taisha 484, 474 karate 871 Kurobe Gorge Railway 266 Nanzen-ji 315 Izu Peninsula 175-84, 176 Karatsu 708-10 Kurokawa Onsen 737-8 -ji 322-3 920 Nishi Hongan-ji 299, 302 M military bases 795 Usu-zan 601 Nison-in 325 machiya 319 military museums 793 Utsukushi-ga-hara-kō- gen 268 Ryoan-ji 322 Magome 15, 231, 15 Minakami Onsen-kyo 293-5 Saiho-ji 325-6 maiko 331 Minami-Sanriku 523 Yariga-take 22 Saimy-ji 330 Makurazaki 760 Minato Mirai 21 193 Yudono-san 552 Sanjusangen-do Temple Manabe-shima 472-3 minshuku 868 Mt Fuji 17, 66, 40-1, 159-62,

INDEX INDEX 157, 160, 17, 40-1 310 manga 305, 440, 479, Miyagi Prefecture 505- Sanzen-in 327-8 512, 861 14, 505 climbing 162 Shoren-in 314 Mano 559-60 Miyajima 22, 445-9, 446, food 158, 161

K-M Tenryu-ji 323 marimo 630 22, 677 highlights 157 To-ji 302 maritime museums 193, Miyako Islands 798-802, hiking 61 Tofuku-ji 302-3 195, 383, 385 799 trails 159-60 Kyūshū 44-5, 68, 695-767, markets 31, 30, see also Miyako-jima 798-801, 799 Murakami Haruki 860-1 696-7 food markets Miyama-chō 429-31 Murō-ji 406 climate 695 Hakodate 636-7 Miyanoshita 171-2 Muroto-misaki 655-6 food 57, 704, 725, 751 Kanazawa 249 Miyazaki 762-6, 763 museums 28, 29, see highlights 696-7 Kōchi 663 Miyazaki Hayao 52, 861 also Ainu museums, hiking 62, 708 Kyoto 321, 354 archaeological sites & Miyazaki-jingū 763 museums, art galleries history 698 Naha 787 mobile phones 24, 887 & art museums, craft travel passes 698, 766 Nishiki Market 304-5 Mojikō 702 & folk art museums, travel to/within 698 Takayama 241 Momotarō 455 design museums, Tokyo 79, 80, 94-5, money 24, 27, 60, 885-6, maritime museums, rail- 109, 130 see also costs way museums, science L & technology museums, Wakkanai 614 monkeys 286, 325 lacquerware 257, 856, see volcano museums martial arts 870-1 monuments, see Buddhist also craft & folk art Ainokura Minzoku-kan Marugame 690-1 statues, statues & museums 248 monuments lakes Matsue 474-8, 475 Chiran Peace Museum Ashino-ko 167 Matsumoto 267-73, 268 Morioka 514-17, 516 758 Ikeda-kō 760 Matsushima 510-11 Motobu Peninsula 793-4 Cosmo Isle Hakui 259 Kawaguchi-ko 164 Matsuyama 669-79, 670 Moto-Hakone 174 Dejima Museum 717-18 Kussharo-ko 631 accommodation 672-3 Motomachi 195-6 Dondenkan 225-6 Kuttara-ko 598-9 drinking 673-9 motorcycle travel 895-7 DT Suzuki Museum 252 Mashū-ko 631 food 673 Motosu-ko 167 Edo-Tokyo Museum 105 Motosu-ko 158 nightlife 673-9 mountain-biking 294 Former Kaichi School 268 Sai-ko 158 sights 671-2 mountains, see also Former Mikasa Hotel 291 Mt Fuji Shikotsu-ko 599-600 travel to/within 679 Fujisan World Heritage Aso-gogaku 735 Shōji-ko 158 Matsuzaki 182-3 Center 164 Bizan 645 Tazawa-ko 542 measures 886 Fukui Dinosaur Museum Daisen 481 Tōya-ko 600-10 media 885 264 Five Mountains of Aso Yamanaka-ko 158 meditation 190, 331 Fukuoka City Museum 735 701 language 24, 27, 836, Megijima 464 Gas-san 552 Fukushima Checkpoint 904-8 830-1 Haguro-san 551-2 Site 232-3 food 58, 840 Meiji-jingū 89 Hakkōda-san 534 Gifu City History Okinawan 785 memorials Hakodate-yama 638 Museum 228 onsen 63 26 Martyrs Memorial 719 Hiei-zan 327 Gokayama Minzoku-kan skiing 51 Korean Atomic Bomb Inasa-yama 719 248 Southwest Islands 770 Victims Memorial 435 Ishizuchi-san 689 Hakone Geomuseum 173 train travel 899 Minami-Sanriku Crisis Hakone Sekisho 174 Management Centre Jōnen-dake 274 legal matters 884-5 Hida Carpentry Museum 523 Kasa-yama 495 legends 281, 455, 519, 543 242 Nagasaki National Peace Kofuji 211 lesbian travellers 136, 883 Higashi Iya History & Memorial Hall for the Kujū-san 739 lifestyle 836-8 Folk Museum 660 Atomic Bomb Victims Me-Akan-dake 629-30 literature, see authors, 715 Himeyuri Peace Museum books Mt Chibusa 211 793 One-Pillar 717 luggage forwarding 28, 893 Rausu-dake 625 Hirado Christian Peace Memorial Park 792 Shari-dake 623 Museum 711 Rikuzen-takata Takao-san 198 Hiroshima Peace Ippon-matsu 523 Map Pages 000 Tamoyachi-dake 534 Memorial Museum 16, Shiroyama Elementary Photo Pages 000 439, 16 School 717 Tsurugi-san 661-2 921 Hokkaidō Museum 581 Nagamachi Yūzen-kan Umigame-kan 773 tourist information 224 Intermediatheque 78 252 Utsukushi-ga-hara Open travel to/within 224-5 Inuyama Artifacts Ukai Air Museum 268-9 Naha 786-92, 788, 44-5 Museum 228 Museum/Castle & Waki-honjin (Okuya) & accommodation 789-90 Town Museum 225 Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Local History Museum drinking 791 Iriomote Wildlife Museum 714 231 festivals & events 789

Conservation Center Nagasaki Museum of His- Yakushima Environmental INDEX 809 tory & Culture 718-19 & Cultural Village food 790 Ishigaki City Yaeyama Nakaze-tei 182 Center 773 nightlife 791 Museum 803 Nara National Museum Yakusugi Museum 773 sights 787-9 Ishinomori Mangattan 394 Yokohama Archives of travel to/within 791-2 M-N Museum 512 National Museum of History 195 Nansei-shotō, see South- Iwami Ginzan World Ethnology 370 Yoron Minzoku-mura 784 west Islands Heritage Centre 485 National Museum of Yuzawa Town History Nanzen-ji 315, 318 Izumo Cultural Heritage Nature & Science 102 Museum 563 Naoshima 17, 28, 460-5, Museum 484 Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse music 862 688, 462, 17 Japan Rural Toy Museum 526 Kodō drummers 561 Nara 15, 391-402, 392, 469-70 Okinawa Prefectural sanshin 796 404, 15, 38-9 Japan Ukiyo-e Museum Museum & Art taiko 561, 862 accommodation 399-400 269 Museum 787 Myōjō-ji 259 drinking 401 Japanese Lamp & Okinawa Prefectural festivals & events 399 Lighting Museum 286-7 Peace Memorial Myōkō Kōgen 565-6 food 400-1 Kaikarō 253 Museum 792 Myōryū-ji 254 history 391, 393 Kanazawa Phonograph Ōkura-yama Ski Jump Myōshin-ji 323 Museum 253 Stadium 580-1 nightlife 401 Karakuri Exhibition Museum of the Meiji shopping 401 Restoration 750 N sights 393-9 Room (Annex) 225 Nachi 419-20 Osaka Museum of tours 399 Karakuri Museum 237 Naeba 564-5 History 365 travel to/within 402 Kawai Kanjirō Memorial Nagahama 428-9 Hall 311 Reihōkan 412 walking tours 398 Nagano 280-3, 282 Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Sand Museum 482 Narai 233-4 280-92, Memorial Hall 602 Sengūkan 423 Narita 208 284 Kiriko Kaikan 261 Shiki Memorial Museum Narita Airport 28 Nagasaki 714-27, 716, Kōbe City Museum 383 671 Naruko Onsen 513-14 720, 722 Koizumi Yakumo Shikoku-mura 689 Naruto 649-53 accommodation 721-3 (Lafcadio Hearn) Shima 253 National Art Center Tokyo Memorial Museum 474 drinking 725 Shimane Museum of 84, 4 festivals & events 721 Kyoto National Museum Ancient Izumo 484 national parks 876-7 310-11 food 723-5 Shitamachi Museum 102 Akan National Park 627- Kyūshū National history 718, 724 Southern Cross Center 34, 628, 42-3 Museum 707 784 internet access 725 Akiyoshi-dai Quasi- Lapis Ōboke 661 Takai Kōzan Kinenkan nightlife 725 National Park 488 Les Archives du Cœur 286 sights 714-21 Daisen-Oki National Park 465 Takao 599 Museum 198-9 tourist information 725 478, 481 Liberty Osaka 369 Takayama Festival Floats tours 721 Daisetsuzan National Matsue History Museum Exhibition Hall 237 travel agencies 726 Park 609-13, 606-7 474 Takayama Museum of travel to/within 726-7 Hakusan National Park Matsumoto Timepiece History & Art 237 253 Museum 268 Nagasaki Prefecture 714-30 Takayama Shōwa-kan 236 Hokkaidō 574-5 Matsūra Historical Nagoya 212, 213-25, 216 Tanegashima Kirishima-yaku National Museum 711 accommodation 220-1 Development Centre - Park 760-2 Meiji-mura 226 Gun Museum 777 drinking 222 Kushiro-shitsugen entertainment 222 Miho Museum 428 Teshima Art Museum National Park 635-6 465-6 festivals & events 220 Miyajima History & Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu Folklore Museum 447 Tōdai-ji Museum 395 food 221-2 National Park 617-21, Miyazaki Prefectural Tokyo National Museum history 217 614-15 Museum of Nature & 97-9, 101, 127, 98, internet resources 224 San-in Coast National History 764 99, 127 medical services 223-4 Park 483-4 Morijuku Museum 490 Tōno Municipal Museum nightlife 222 Shikotsu-Tōya National Nagahama Hikiyama 520 orientation 223 Park 595-601, 596-7 Museum 428 Twenty-Four Eyes Movie shopping 222-3 Nagai Takashi Memorial Village 466-7 623-7, 624 Museum 715 sights 217-20 922 navy bases 795 Okayama 455-60, 456 Kowakidani 171 opening hours 25, 886 nightlife 21, 21, see also Okayama Prefecture 454-73 Kurama Onsen 65 origami 95 individual locations 478-81 Kurodake-no-yu 612 Osaka 359-82, 362, 7, 674 Nichinan-kaigan 767 Okinawa 68, 44-5 Kurokawa Onsen 11, 65, accommodation 372-4 Niigata 554-7 food 57-8, 791 737-8 activities 370-1 554-66, hiking 62 Kusatsu Onsen 295-6 Amerika-Mura 365 INDEX INDEX 555 language 785 Kyoto 331 Banpaku-kinen-kōen 370 Nii-jima 186 Okinawa-hontō 785-94, Kyūshū 11, 699 Dōtombori 21, 365-6, 674 Nikkō 200-6, 202 786 Marukoma Onsen 600 drinking 377-8 N- Niseko 589-93, 596-7 Okinoerabu-jima 782-3 Minakami Onsen 65 entertainment 378-9 P Nishi Hongan-ji 299, 302 okonomiyaki 57 Minakami Onsen-kyo festivals & events 371-2  293-4 Nishi-Iya 658-9 Okuhida Onsen-gō 242-5 food 374-7 Miyanoshita 171 Nishino-shima 480 Oku-Matsushima 511 history 359 Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen Nishiki Market 304-5, 339 Oku-no-in 14, 410, 15 internet access 380 639 nō 824, 857-8 Oku-Tama 198-200 itineraries 369 Nakabusa Onsen 65 Kanazawa 256 Olympics 28, 816, 871 Kita 359-63, 372, 374-5, Naruko Onsen 513-14 Tokyo 143 Ōma 536 377, 379, 364 Niseko 589-90 Noboribetsu Onsen 598-9 Ōmi-shima 453 medical services 380 Nishi-Iya 659 Nokonoshima 702 Onomichi 449-52 Minami 365-7, 373-4, 376, Noboribetsu Onsen 65, 378, 379, 366, 368 northern Hokkaidō 602-20 onsen 11, 63-5, 11 598-9 Naka-no-shima 363-5, northern Honshū (Tōhoku) Akanko Onsen 628-31 Northern Honshū 11 67, 501-70, 502-3 372-3, 377-8 Aoni Onsen 532 Nozawa Onsen 287 climate 501 nightlife 377-8 Arita 713 Nyūtō Onsen 11, 65, Osaka-jō area 363-5, food 56, 535, 536 Asahidake Onsen 610-11 544-5 375-6 highlights 502-3 Beppu 65, 741-2 Ōedo Onsen safety 380 hiking 553 Bessho Onsen 289 Monogatari 65 Semba 363-5, 372-3, history 504 Ogimachi 246 costs 63 375-6, 377-8 national parks 504 Oku-Tama 199 Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen Shin-Sekai 367, 369 skiing 564 612-13 Onsen Tengoku 599 shopping 379-80 travel passes 504 Dōgashima 183 Osaka 370 sights 359-70 travel to/within 504-5 Dōgo Onsen 65, 678 Ō-shima 185 Tempōzan 369-70 Northern Japan Alps 267-80 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen Ōsumi Islands 65 Tennōji 367, 369, 377-80, 563-4 Northern Kansai 429-33 Rishiri-Fuji Onsen 620 379-80 etiquette 63-4 Northern Territories Roten-no-yu 65 tourist information 380 dispute 622 food 744 Ryūjin Onsen 65, 414 tours 371 Noto Peninsula 258-62, Fukiage Roten-no-yu Shikine-jima 186 travel agencies 380 260 613 Shin-Hotaka Onsen 65, travel to/within 380-2 Nozawa Onsen 287-8 Fukuji Onsen 244 244-5 Ura-Namba 377 nuclear disasters 566, Funaoka Onsen 65 Shirahama 421 walking tours 368 816-17 Ginzan Onsen 550 Shirahone Onsen 275 Osaka-jō 364-5, 2 Nyūtō Onsen 544-5 Gokayama district 248 Shiretoko National Ō-shima 185-6 Hachijō-jima 186 Park 625 Osorezan-bodaiji 536 Hakone 65 Shuzen-ji Onsen 184 O Ōsu Kannon 219 Ōagata-jinja 226 Hakone-Yumoto 170 Sōunkyō Onsen 611-12 Ōsumi Islands 771-8 Obi 767 Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen Tanegashima 777 65 Otaru 593-5, 594 Ōboke 660-1 tattoos 64 Hirayu Onsen 243-4 Ōtsu 426 Obuse 286-7 Tōhoku 11 Hōheikyō 597-8 Ōtsuchi 525 Ōfunato 523 Tokachidake Onsen 613 Ibusuki 65, 759 Ōzu 681-2 Ogasawara Archipelago Tokyo 111-12 208-11 Itō 176-7 Tsuwano 492 Ogi 560-2 Kaga Onsen 262-3 Unzen 729 P Ogijima 464 Kamikōchi 275 Watarase Onsen 417 painting 854-5 Ogimachi 246-7 Kaniyu Onsen 207 Yakushima 774 palaces, see also castles Ōhara 326-8 Kawa-yu Onsen 417 Yamanaka-ko 167 Imperial Palace (Tokyo) Kawayu Onsen 631-4 Yufuin 65 75, 77 Kinosaki 65 Yumoto Onsen 207 Kyoto Imperial Palace Kinosaki Onsen 431-3 306-8, 310 Map Pages 000 Yunomine Onsen 417 Kirishima-yaku National Shūgaku-in Rikyū Photo Pages Zaō Onsen 548-50 000 Park 761 Imperial Villa 321 923 parks, see also gardens, pilgrimage routes 18, 62 Rebun-tō 617-18 Satsuma Peninsula 758-60 national parks 88 Temple Route 18 religion 838-9 Sawata 559-60 Apple Park 529 Dewa Sanzan 18 Rikugi-en 104 science & technology Arashiyama Monkey Park Kumano Kodō 18, 415- Rikuzen-takata 523 museums Iwatayama 325 16, 18 Rinnō-ji 201, 203 Kawasaki Good Times Atomic Bomb Hypocentre planning 24, 26-7, see also Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu World 383, 385

Park 715 INDEX individual regions National Park 617-21, Mazda Museum 440 Chūō-kōen 647 budgeting 25, 28, 59-60 614-15 Miyazaki Science Centre Dōgo-kōen 671-2 calendar of events 32-5 Rishiri-tō 618-20 763 Godaisan 663 Motorcar Museum of children, travel with 52 Roppongi Hills 81 P-S Japan 262 Goryō-kaku-kōen 638 internet resources 25 rotemburo 293 Nagoya City Science Heiwadai-kōen 762 itineraries 36-47 Ryōan-ji 11, 322 Hino-yama-kōen 497-8 Museum 219 Japan basics 24-5, 26-7 ryokan 12, 334, 866-8 13 Hirosaki-kōen 529 National Museum of Japan’s regions 66-8 Ryōtsu 562 Emerging Science & Hiyori-yama Kōen 512 repeat visitors 28 Ryūjin Onsen 414 Innovation (Miraikan) Inokashira-kōen 110 travel seasons 24, 32-5 109 Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss plants 876, see also Space Science & 204 cherry-blossom S Technology Museum Kansui Park 265 viewing, plum-blossom Sado-ga-shima 557-63, 558 777 Koshimizu Gensei-kaen viewing, autumn- safety 887 Toyota Commemorative 623 foliage viewing Saijō 444 Museum of Industry & Kōzan-kōen 486, 488 plum-blossom viewing Sai-ko 166 Technology 217-18 Kyoto Imperial Palace 32, 875 Sakai Minato 478 Toyota Exhibition Hall Park 308 pop culture 31 Sakata 553-4 219-20 Maruyama-kōen 313 population 817, 835-6 sake 164-5, 385, 444, 621 Moerenuma-kōen 581 postal services 886 556, 570 sea travel 892 Momiji-dani-kōen 447 pottery 713, 787 Sakurai 406 sea turtles 774 Mt Asama Magma Stone Bizen 460 Sakurajima 757-67 Sendai 506-10, 507 Park 290 galleries 709 samurai 825, 829 Sengaku-ji 87 Nara-kōen 15 Hagi 496 houses 727, 758 Sengokuhara 173 Nikkō Tamozawa Kyūshū 715 Kakunodate 540 Sensō-ji 104-5, 127 Imperial Villa Memorial museums 172, 363-4 museums 541, 567 Sensui-jima 453 Park 203 Tokonome Pottery sand baths 759, 474 sentō 65 Odaiba Kaihin-kōen Footpath 223 shabu-shabu 844 107-8 San-in coast 473-86 public art Shari 622-3 Ōdōri-kōen 579 San-in Coast National Park Hachikō Statue 87 483-4 Ōhori-kōen 699 Shibuya Crossing 87, 37 Higashi-Iya 659-60 Sanjūsangen-dō Temple 310 Onshi Hakone Kōen 174 Shiga Kōgen 288-9 Maman 81 Sanriku Kaigan 28, 522-5 Peace Memorial Park 426-9, Myth of Tomorrow 87 Sanzen-in 327-8 435, 792, 16 427 Shinjuku I-Land 92, 94 Peace Park 715 Sapporo 68, 577-88, 578, Shikanoshima 702 White Deer 85 Ritsurin-kōen 685-6 676 Shigeru, Mizuki 479 public holidays 886 accommodation 571, Senshū-kōen 537 Shikine-jima 186 puppet theatre 372, 645-6, 582-4 Shimoda Kōen & Shikoku 68, 641-94, 642-3 858 activities 582 Wakanoura climate 641 purikura 89 Promenade Park 178 climate 571, 574 driving 694 Shinjuku-gyoen 95 drinking 586 food 57, 666 Shizuki-kōen 493-4 R entertainment 586 highlights 642 Chūō-kōen 701 railway museums festivals & events 582 hiking 62, 689 Ueno-kōen 101 Hara Model Railway food 57, 571, 584-6 internet access 648 Ue-no-yama Ryokuchi Museum 193 highlights 572-3 travel to/from 644 523 JR SCMAGLEV & Railway hiking 62 Shikotsu-ko 599-600 Park 219 Yamashita-kōen 195 history 577-8 Shikotsu-Tōya National Kyoto Railway Museum Yoyogi-kōen 89-90 nightlife 586 Park 595-601, 596-7 302 Zō-no-hana Park 193 orientation 586-7 Shimabara 727-8, 728 Path of Philosophy 318-19 Railway Museum sights 579-82 (Omiya) 204 Shimabara Peninsula Peace Memorial 435, tourist information 587 727-30 Usui Tōge Railway Village 792, tours 582 16 292 Shimanami Kaidō Islands phonecards 888 travel to/within 587-8 452-3 rakugo 858 photo booths 89 Shimanto City 667-8 ramen 193, 196, 370, 845-6 sashimi 843-4, 54-5 924 Shimanto-gawa 667 Shiretoko National Park food 768 Tanzan-jinja 406 Shimoda 178-81, 180 623-7, 624 highlights 769 Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Shimogamo-jinja 309 Shishikui 653-4 hiking 62 Route 270 Shimoji-jima 801-2 shōchū 755 itineraries 770 Tatsuko 543 Shimokita Peninsula 535-7 shodō 855 travel seasons 768 taxes 373 Shimonoseki 497-500, Shōdo-shima 466-9, 688, travel to/within 770-1 taxis 898 INDEX INDEX 498-9 467 sports & sporting venues tea 56, 852, 853 Shingū 418-19 Shōhō-ji (Gifu Great 870-1, see also tea ceremonies 56, 331-2, Shin-Hotaka Onsen 244-5 Buddha) 228 individual sports 856, 56

S-T shinkansen 28, 899 Shōji-ko 166 Fukuoka Yafuoku! Dome teahouses 730 702 Shintō shrines 22, 29, 838 shopping 23, 30-1, 23, see telephone services 24, also individual regions Sapporo Dome 586 887-8 Daisen 481 Shōren-in 314 statues & monuments, see temples 11, 27, 29, see Dazaifu 707 shrines 29, see also Shintō also Buddhist statues also Buddhist temples Dewa Sanzan 552 shrines Byakui Dai-kannon 292-3 Teshima 465-6 Fuji-Yoshida 163 Shukunegi 560-2 Kamaishi Dai-kannon 525 theatre 857-8, see also Fukuoka 699 Shuri-jō 789, 44 Madame Butterfly kabuki, puppet theatre Hakone-machi 174 Shuzen-ji 184 Statue 719 Kyoto 350-1 Hokkaidō-jingū 580 Shuzen-ji Onsen 184 One-Pillar Torii 717 Tokyo 143-4 Hongū 417 Peace Tower 762 skiing 18, 48-51, 589, 49, theme parks, see Inuyama 226 18, 51, see also snow street food 134 amusement parks Ise-Shima 422-3, 424 sports subway travel 898 time 888 Izumo 484 Asahi-dake 610 sukiyaki 844 tipping 27 Kamakura 189, 190 Bandai Plateau 568 Sumiyoshi Taisha 369 Tōdai-ji 15, 394-5, 396-7, Kashihara 405 costs 48, 51 sumo 16, 144, 870-1, 16 396-7 Kōbe 383 Daisen 481 surfing Tōfuku-ji 302-3 Kotohira 691-3 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 563 Kisami 182 Togakushi 283-6 Kurashiki 471 Hakkōda-san 534-5 Nii-jima 186 Toi 175 Kyoto 303-4, 309-10, Hakuba 278 Rishiri-tō 619 toilets 888 313-14, 315, 320-1 Ishizuchi-san 680 Shikoku 645 Tokachi 636 Matsuyama 672 Kuro-dake 611-12 Shimoda 179 Tokachidake Onsen 613 Miyajima 446-7 Kusatsu Onsen 295 sushi 843-4, 12 Tokara-rettō Islands 777 Miyazaki 763-4 Myōkō Kōgen 565 Suwa-jinja 719 Tokoname 223 Nagasaki 719 Naeba 564 swords 94 Tokunoshima 781-2 Nagoya 220 Niseko 18 Tokushima 644-56, 645-9, Nara 395 northern Honshū 646 Nikkō 200-1, 203 (Tōhoku) 564 T Tokyo 40-1, 66, 70-155, 71, Tachiarai 706 Oku-Tama 199 Nozawa Onsen 287 72-3, 14, 21, 23, 37, Taikodani-Inari-jinja 490 Osaka 363, 369 Rishiri-tō 619 40, 126, 127 Takachiho 747-9, Sakurai 406 Rusutsu 590 748 accommodation 70, 116-23 Shimonoseki 497 Shiga Kōgen 288-9 Takamatsu 641, 685-9, 686 activities 111-13 Takachino 748 Zaō Onsen 548 Takao 329-30 Akasaka 81-5, 117-18, 125, Takasaki 292 smoking 886 Takao-san 198-9 128, 137-8, 146 Tanabe 415 snorkelling 209, 211, 794, Takasaki 292-3 Akihabara 95-7, 120, 132, Togakushi 283, 285 809, 813 Takayama 234-41, 235 140-1, 149-50, 96, 126 Tokyo 80, 84-5, 89, 94-5, snow monkeys 286 accommodation 238-9 Ameya-yokochō 150, 101-2, 104 snow sports courses 237 30 Aoyama 89-92, 119, 130- Tsuwano 490 Furano 605 drinking 240 1, 139, 147-8, 90 Uwajima 683 Niseko United 589 festivals & events 237-8 architecture 14, 30, 91, 14 Yoshino 407 Sapporo Tiene 582 food 239-40 104-7, 121-2, Shira-hama 181-2 snowboarding 48-51 nightlife 240 133-4, 141, 150-1, 106 Shirahone Onsen 275 soccer 871 shopping 240-1 children, travel with 85 Shiraishi-jima 473 Sotokaifu 562-3 sights 234-7 climate 70 Shirakami-sanchi 531 Sōunkyō Onsen 611-12 travel to/within 241 courses 114-15 Shirakawa-gō 245-8, 39 Sōun-zan 173 Taketa 739 cruises 112-13 Southwest Islands 20, 68, Taketomi-jima 811-12 drinking 135-42 768-813, 769, 20 Tanabe 415-16 85-7, 118, 128-9, Map Pages accommodation 768 Tanegashima 776-8 000 138, 146-7, 86 climate 768, 770 Tango Peninsula 433 Photo Pages 000 entertainment 142-5 925 festivals & events 115-16 travel within 137, 153-5 ume 415 hiking 62 food 56, 70, 123-35 Tsukiji 28, 79-81, 117, Umeda Sky Building 359, travel seasons 434 galleries 80 124-5, 136-7, 145-6, 362, 30 whale-watching 211 gay travellers 136 76 Unzen 728-30 whaling 877 Ginza 23, 79-81, 117, 124- Ueno 97, 101-4, 120-1, Usuki 746-7 white-water rafting 294 5, 136-7, 145-6, 76 132-3, 141, 150, 100 Utazu 690 wi-fi 28

Golden Gai 140 walking tours 103, 114, Uwajima 683-5, 684 wildlife 875-6 INDEX Harajuku 23, 89-92, 103 women in Japan 839 west Tokyo 109-11, 110, 119, 130-1, 139, 147-8, women travellers 890 122-3, 135, 142, 151 V 90, 23 T-Z vacations 886 work 890 highlights 71 Yanesen 97, 101-4, 120-1, 132-3, 141, 150, , visas 24, 889 hiking 61 100 103 volcano museums 600, history 74-5 Y Tokyo Disney Resort 113 727, 735 internet access 152 Yaeyama Islands 802-14, Tokyo International volcanoes 874 internet resources 152-3 804-5 Forum 79 Bandai-san 568 Yahata 702 itineraries 40, 81, 41 Tokyo National Museum Iō-zan 632 yakitori 58 Jimbōchō 149 97-9, 101, 98-9, , 98 Iwaki-san 531 Yakuō-in 199 Kabukichō 21, 21 99, 127 Kaimon-dake 760 Yakushi-ji 403 Kagurazaka 95-7, 120, Tokyo Sky Tree 105, 864 Kirishima-yaku National Yakushima 20, 771-6, 132, 140-1, 96 Tomakomai 601-2 Park 760-1 772, 44 Kōrakuen 95-7, 120, 132, Tomo-no-ura 453-4 Mihara-san 185 140-1, Yamadera 547-8 96 Tōno 519-22, 520 Mt Asama 290 lesbian travellers 136 Yamagata 545-7 Tōshō-gū 200-1 Naka-dake 735 Marunouchi 75-9, 116-17, Yamagata Prefecture 545- Tottori 482-3 O-Akan-dake 630 54, 123-4, 136, 145, 76 546 tourist information 888 Osore-zan 536 medical services 152 Yamaguchi 486-90, 487 tours, see also boat cruises Ōwakudani 173 Meguro 85-7, 118, 128-9, & boat tours, walking Sakurajima 757 486-500 138, 86 tours, individual regions Shinmoe-dake 762 Yamate 195-6 money 152 Towada-ko 533-4, 533 Unzen-dake 727 Yamato Plain 405-7 nightlife 135-42 Tōya-ko 600-10 Yōtei-zan 598 Yashima 689-90 Nihombashi 75-9, 116-17, Toyama 265-6 123-4, 136, 145 Yufu-dake 738 Yawatahama 682-3 train museums, see railway volunteering 889-90 Yayoi people 818-19 Odaiba 107-9, 134-5, museums Yokohama 192-8, 141-2, 108 train travel 28, 31, 512, 194 Omote-sandō 91, 14 898-903 W Yonaguni-jima 813-14 orientation 151 language 899 Wakkanai 613-16, 614-15 Yonezawa 547 planning 115 passes 900-3 walking tours Yoron-tō 784-5 Roppongi 81-5, 117-18, reservations 900 Kyoto 350 Yoshimizu-jinja 407 125, 128, 137-8, 146, Yoshino 407-8 82 shinkansen 28, 899 Minami (Osaka) 368, 368 safety 151 Yuasa 409 tickets 899-900 Nara 398, 398 Shibuya 87-9, 118-19, Yudanaka 286 trams 898 Tokyo 103, 129-30, 138-9, 147, 103 transport 25, 60, 891-903 Yufuin 738-9 88, 37 waterfalls travel seasons 24, 887, Yumoto Onsen 207-8 Shimo-Kitazawa 92, Anmon Falls 531 , see also individual 118-19 24 Kegon-no-taki 206-7 regions Shinjuku 92-5, 119-20, Nachi-no-taki 419 Z travel to/from Japan 891-2 131-2, 139-40, 148-9, Nunobiki Falls 383 Zamami-jima 796-7 travel within Japan 892-3 93 Ōko-no-taki 773 Zaō Onsen 548-50 Tsukiji Market 79-80 shopping 23, 145-51 Pinaisāra-no-taki 809 zazen 190 Tsumago 15, 231-2, sights 75-111 15 Ryūzu-no-taki 207 Zeniarai-benten 190 Tsurugi-san 661-2 104-7, 121- Senriga-taki 760 Zenkō-ji 280, 281 Tsuruoka 550-1 2, 133-4, 141, 150-1 Soundless Waterfall 328 Zenshō-ji 262-3 Tsuwano 490-3, 491 telephone services 152 weather 24, 32-5, 48, 24, Zentsū-ji 691 Tennōzu Isle 109 tuna 536 see also individual Zōjō-ji 84 Tokyo Bay 28, 107-9, regions zoos 134-5, 141-2, 108 U weights 886 Asahiyama Zoo 602 tourist information 152 Uchiko 680-1 western Honshū 67, 434- Ueno Zoo 102 tours 113-14 Ueno Tōshō-gū 101-2 500, 436-7 Zuisen-ji 189-90 travel seasons 70 ukai 227, 228, 229 climate 434 travel to/from 153 ukiyo-e 855 highlights 436-7 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 926

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MTR/MRT station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kate Morgan Kyoto Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destina- tions such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Simon Richmond To kyo Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered including Australia, , India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), , Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching - follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

Tom Spurling Northern Honshū Tom Spurling is Australian travel writer and high school teacher who has worked on 13 travel guides for Lonely Planet. His titles include Australia, Turkey, Central America, China, India and South Africa. On his second Japan guide he covered the mythical northeast where the wild things roam but the shinkansen Green Car still runs. He is looking forward to returning in winter to attempt to ski where he once trod.

Phillip Tang Hiroshima & Around, Okayama & Around Phillip Tang grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cul- tures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. More pics and words: philliptang.co.uk. Phillip has made his home in Sydney, Melbourne, London and Mexico City. His travels include most countries in Europe, much of Asia and Latin America, as well as the greatest hits of North America.

Benedict Walker The Japan Alps & Central Honshū, Matsue & Around, Tottori & Around, Yamaguchi & Around Born in Newcastle, Australia, notions of the beach are core to Ben’s idea of self, having travelled hundreds of thousands of kilometres from the sandy shores of home. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide Japan( ) when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He speaks fluent Japanese and has contributed to LP’s Japan guide, twice. Ben thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much about where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Ben has also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is experimenting with a return to his original craft of photography and film-making.

Wendy Yanagihara Around Tokyo, Okinawa & the Southwest Islands Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has since spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored the tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colo- rado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator, and visual artist. Instagram: @wendyyanagihara AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Rebecca Milner Curator, Tokyo, , Osaka California born. Longtime Tokyo resident (14 years and counting!). Co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and Chi- na. Freelance writer covering travel, food & culture. Published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more. After spending the better part of my twenties working to travel – doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so I could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – I was fortunate enough to turn the tables in 2010, joining the Lonely Planet team of freelance authors.

Ray Bartlett Kyushu Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact him for questions or motivational speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray Bartlett currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Andrew Bender Kansai Andrew is a native New Englander who worked in the financial industry in Tokyo and the film industry in Los Angeles before setting out to pursue his dream of travelling and writing about it. He has since authored more than three dozen LP titles as varied as Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Norway, Amsterdam, Germany and his cur- rent home of Southern California. He also writes the Seat 1A travel site for Forbes. com, and contributes to the Los Angeles Times and airline magazines. Catch his work at www.wheres-andy-now.com.

Craig McLachlan Hiking in Japan, Skiing in Japan, Shikoku Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, photographer, hiking guide, tour leader, karate instructor and budding novelist. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 15th edition – Aug 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 035 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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