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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 912 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. aspect of this project. You’re amazing. Thanks OUR READERS also to my editor, Laura C, and other great folks at Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Lonely Planet. Shouts to James T, Mia Y, Adeline R, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Toru-san, Deea, Jamie, Miki H, Memory-san, Noriko- advice and interesting anecdotes: san, Satoko-san, and countless others who went Alberto Escribano, Alvin Hudec, Amandine Favier, the extra mile to make sure I could represent this Carlos Mendez, Christoph Ris, Connie Nakamura, amazing part of Japan in the best possible way. Damping Wang, David Lee, Emma Dhesi, Eric Lauryn, Florence Petrie , Gertjan Martens, Harumi Murata, Andrew Bender Jade Johnston, James Martin, John Osman, Kaomi Special thanks to Yohko Scott, Matsuura Kei, Rose Goetz , Kevin Bruce, Kirsten Kinkead, Lisa Nolan, Tanasugarn, Urakami Masahiro, Taniguchi Takehiro, Lucy & Stuart Stirland, Madoka Aoyama, Marie Noro Randria, Colin Fukai, Hiraoka Hiroko, Hayashi Armstrong, Marina Ramos, Marjolein Stegeman, Mark Minako, Akagi Hideki, Hattori Katsuhiko, Brad Towle, Chesney, Megumi Takamori, Michael Jahn, Miriam Tabata Kumiko and every innkeeper, restaurant Vázquez, Niall Christie, Robin Kish, Sarah Dhesi, Tim owner and tourist information office staffer who put Glover, Tristram Wyatt, Yasutaka Hori, Yuko Kobayashi up with my niggling questions. You are the essence of omotenashi. WRITER THANKS Craig McLachlan Rebecca Milner A hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my living kanji dictionary Thank you to everyone on the Japan team. Laura, and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko. Gratitude thank you for giving me so many opportunities. also to Nezia, who let her husband and my buddy, Simon and Craig, thank you for your advice. Thank Paul, come along for his Shikoku pilgrimage. And of you to Ross, Tomoko, Roberto, Nara-san, Kokubu-san, course, thanks to Kōbō Daishi, who looked over us on Watanabe-san, Will, Max, Jon, Andy and Shannon for our journey. your time, tips, conversation and company. Thank you to my husband and family for always encourag- Kate Morgan ing me, even if it means long absences. A huge thank you to Destination Editor Laura, for giving me the opportunity to work on a dream gig Ray Bartlett and for all of your assistance throughout. A big No-one deserves thanks more than my family, who arigatou gozaimasu to Kengo Nakao from the Kyoto dealt with me disappearing and supported every Tourist Information office for all of your help, also to 913 Keiji Shimizu for your assistance and Motoki Ito for Wendy Yanagihara some great local tips. And finally, to my partner, Many thanks to those who offered me insight, Trent, who I missed travelling with on this trip, context and companionship, especially Tsuchiya thanks for all of your support. Keiko, Yokoyama Ikuyo and Shin in Shimoda, Karina and Oscar in Toi, Ezaki Sachiyo and Junta in Amami, Simon Richmond Endo Satoko in Nikkō, Utsumi Shino in Matsuzaki, My thanks to Hollie Mantle, Will Andrews, Yoshizawa Michael and Doug in Fuji-Yoshida, Toita Yoshiyuki BEHIND THE SCENES Tomoko, Toshiko, Kenichi, Chris, Giles, Steve and and Yun Yongdu in Ishigaki and Ogata-san in Emiko, and my co-author Rebecca. Yokohama. Thank you Laura, Rebecca, and Imogen Tom Spurling for being such delights to work with. Love to my incredible support system: Sanchita, Whitney, To the yamasbushi who walk the mountains of Victoria, Jason and Jasper. Tohoku, for carrying on. To every fellow onsen bather, for the bum flash in the woods. To every ryokan operator, for sweeping those tatamis ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS clean. To the shinkansen, for the green car. To the not-so-shinkansen, for winding me through Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson gorgeous valleys. To the tachinomi, for letting me BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of stand up and drink to this wonderful country. Oh, the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- and to Mum, Lucy, Oliver, Poppy, Anna, Tez, Mia, ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Evie, Lex, Fred. And to Dad for not coming. Illustrations pp98-9 and pp396-7 by Michael Weldon. Phillip Tang Cover photograph: Red-blossomed plum tree, Massive thanks to Xavier 邹嘉 for sky-high views, Kyoto, Masanori Shimizu/500px © rainbows, weddings, and luggage offloading. Thanks 郝成义for making Fukuyama and Miyajima come alive. Thank you Eric Mikuski, Ayako Noguchi and Nic Williamson for soul-enrichment, and Dale Stein for Okayama tips. I’m ever-grateful to the tourism-office angels, and to Laura Crawford for sharing Western Honshū again. Benedict Walker This is for Aunty Bonnie, who gave me my first LP guide (Japan) when I was just a boy, and who waited until I returned from this research, for one last goodbye. Thanks to her oncologist, Dr. Sanjiv Gupta and to Mum, Collywolly and Meg, for your unfaltering care; to Michelle and Saralinda (my editors), for your patience and to Laura Crawford, whose kindness and trust allowed me to always be in the right place at the right time. Finally, thanks to my friends on the road: Grahame Roth, Kaori and Takashi Shimizu, Taku Yamada and Yuko Yasuoka. Love all round. Destination Editor Laura Odijk, Monique Perrin, THIS BOOK Crawford Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda This 15th edition of Lonely Product Editor Sandie Kestell Turner, Maja Vatrić, Simon Williamson Planet’s Japan guidebook was Senior Cartographer Diana researched and written by von Holdt Cover Researcher Naomi Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Parker Assisting Cartographers Andrew Bender, Craig McLa- Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Thanks to Naoko Akamatsu, chlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Gabe Lindquist, Alison Lyall Heather Champion, Kate Richmond, Tom Spurling, Chapman, Katie Connelly, Joel Book Designer Gwen Cotter Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker Cotterell, Victoria Harrison, Assisting Editors Imogen and Wendy Yanagihara. This Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Bannister, Michelle Bennett, guidebook was produced by Genna Patterson, Kathryn Pete Cruttenden, Gabrielle the following: Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Dianne Innes, Helen Koehne, Kristin Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 914 Index 88 Temples of Shikoku 654, Ainu culture 633 Anraku-ji 290 museums 111, 237, 269, 650-1 Ainu museums Aomori 526-9, 528 405-6, 708, 761 Temple 1 649 Ainu Culture Promotion Aomori Prefecture 525-37, Naoshima 17 Temple 2 649 Centre 595, 597 527 Osaka 359, 362, 30 Temple 3 649 Ainu Folklore Museum 629 Aoni Onsen 532 Taishō-era 702 Temple 4 649 Hakodate Museum of Aoshima 766-7 Tokyo 14, 30, 91, 14 Temple 5 649 Northern Peoples 637 aquariums 550-1, 793, area codes 25 Temple 21 663 Hokkaidō Ainu Center 580 369, 760 Arita 713-14 Temple 38 669 Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Arashiyama Bamboo Grove art galleries & art museums, Memorial Hall 602 Temple 45 681 323-4 see also craft & folk Museum of Ainu Folklore Temple 51 671 archaeological sites & art museums, design 631 museums museums Temple 66 694 Ainu people 835-6 Dazaifu Exhibition Hall 708 21st Century Museum of Temple 73 691 Ainu villages 629 Hida Folk Archaeological Contemporary Art 252 Temple 74 691 air travel 891-2 Museum 237 3331 Arts Chiyoda 97 Temple 84 689-90 Aizu-Wakamatsu 566-8 kofun 458, 761, 822 Abeno Harukas Art Temple 85 689 Aka-jima 794-6 Nara Prefecture Kashihara Museum 367 Temple 88 687 Akan National Park 627-34, Archaeological Museum Adachi Museum of Art 476 Temple 41 683 628-9, 42-3 405-6 Akita Museum of Art 537 Temple 42 683 Akanko Onsen 628-31 Saitobaru Archaeological Anno Art Museum 490 2020 Summer Olympics 28, Museum 761 Akita 537-40, 540 Aomori Museum of 816, 871 Saitobaru Burial Mounds Art 526 Akita Prefecture 537-45, 538 Park 761 Asakura Museum of Akiyoshi-dai Quasi-National Sannai Maruyama Site 526 Sculpture, Taitō 102 A Park 488 Uenohara Jōmon-no- BankART Studio NYK 195 Abashiri 621-2 Amami Islands 778-85 Mori 761 Benesse House Museum accommodation 26, 866-9, Amami-Ōshima 778-81, 780 880-2, see also individual architects 863-5 461 Ameya-yokochō 150, locations 30 Andō Tadao 83, 379, Chibajo Annexe 731 amusement parks costs 59, 881 461, 865 Chichū Art Museum 461 Fuji-Q Highland 163 etiquette 867 Ban Shigeru 865 Complex 665 83 Hanayashiki 113 language 905 Itō Toyō 865 Echigo-Tsumari Art Field Tokyo Disney Resort 113 love hotels 137, 374 Kikutake Kiyonori 864 563 Tokyo Dome City manga kissa 137 Kurokawa Kishō 864 Fukuoka Asian Art Attractions 113 Museum 699 minshuku 868 Maki Fumihiko 864 Tokyo Joypolis 113 Pei, IM 428 Gallery Koyanagi 80 ryokan
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