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With Sketches of Spain and Portugal iiiiUiLuiiiiiiuiHuiiiiiniiiffniiniriiiifiminiiii! ITALY; WITH SKETCHES OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. VOL. II. : LONDON PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. ITALY; WITH SKETCHES OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. BY THE AUTHOR OF "VATHEK." SECOND EDITION, REVISED. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. n. LONDON; RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, 3Piiblt)Si)fr in (©rtimary to W^ iMajetitg. 1834. — CONTENTS THE SECOND VOLUME. PORTUGAL. LETTER I. Detained at Falmouth.—Navigation at a stop.—An even- ing ramble. ..... Page 5 LETTER IL Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.—Piety and gin.—Rapid progress of Methodism.—Freaks of fortune. —Pernicious extravagance. — Minerals. — Mr. Beauchamp's mansion. — still Beautiful lake.—The wind contrary. 8 LETTER IIL A lovely morning. — Antiquated mansion,—Its lady.—An- cestral effigies.—Collection of animals.—Serene evening. Owls.—Expected dreams. .12 LETTER IV. A blustering night. —Tedium of the language of the compass.—Another excursion to Trefusis. 16 VOL. II. b VI CONTENTS. LETTER V. Regrets produced by contrasts. .19 LETTER VL Still no prospect of embarkation.—Pen-dennis Castle. —Luxuriant vegetation—A serene day. —Anticipations of the voyage. 21 LETTER VIL Portugal. —Excursion to Pagliavam.—The villa. —Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style. — Roses.—Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse— Interior of the Palace. — Furniture in petticoats. —Force of education.—Royalty without power. —Return from the Palace. .23 LETTER VIIL Glare of the climate in Portugal.—Apish luxury. —Bo- tanic Gardens.— A9afatas. —Description of the Gardens and Terraces. .... 29 LETTER IX. Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.—Pathetic Music. —Valley of Alcantara. — Enormous Aqueduct.—Visit to the Marialva Palace.—Its much revered Masters. —Collection of rarities. — The Viceroy of Algarve. — Polyglottery. — A night-scene. — Modinhas. — Extraordinary Procession. — Blessings of Patriarchal Government. 34 LETTER X. Festival of the Corpo de Deos.— Striking decoration of the streets. —The Patriarchal Cathedral.— Coming forth of the Sacrament in awful state. — Gorgeous procession.—Bewil- dering confusion of sounds . .47 — CONTENTS. VU LETTER XI. Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S .—His Brazilian wife.—Magnificent Repast.—A tragic damsel. 31 LETTER Xn. Pass the day at Belem. —Visit the neighbouring Monas- tery.— Habitation of King Emanuel. —A gold Custodium of exquisite workmanship. — The Church. — Bonfires on the edge of the Tagus—Fire-works. —Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. .55 LETTER XIIL The New Church of St. Anthony.—Sprightly Music. Enthusiastic Sermon.—The good Prior of Avis.—Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.— Spectres of the Order. —Striking effigy of the Saviour.—A young and melancholy Carthusian. —The Cemetery. .59 LETTER XIV. Curious succession of visiters. —A Seraphic Doctor—Mon- senhor Aguilar. —Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuf- fins. —Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes. —The Archbishop Confessor. —Brazilian Modinhas Bewitching nature of that music.—Nocturnal processions.—Enthusi- asm of the young Conde de Villanova.—No accounting for fancies. ...... 68 LETTER XV. Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.—Night-sounds of the city —Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.— b2 — Vlll CONTENTS. Visit to the Anjeja Palace. — The heir of the family. Marvellous narrations of a young priest.—Convent of Savoyard nuns —Father Theodore's chickens.—Sequestered group of beauties.—Singing of the Scarlati. 77 LETTER XVI. Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.—Negro Beldames.—Quinta of Marvilla Moonlight view of Lisbon. —Illuminated win- dows of the Palace.—The old Marquis of Penalva.—Padre Duarte, a famous Jesuit.—Conversation between him and a conceited Physician. — Their ludicrous blunders. — Toad- eaters.—Sonatas.— Portuguese minuets. 88 LETTER XVII. Dog-howlings.— Visit to the Convent of San Jose di Riba- mar.—Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas. —Magnificent and hospitable reception. — Whispering in the shade of mysterious chambers.—The Bishop of Algarve.— Evening scene in the garden of Marvilla. .96 LETTER XVIII. Excursion to Cintra.—Villa of Ramalhao.—The Garden. —CoUares.—Pavilion designed by Pillement. — A convulsive gallop.—Cold weather in July. .104 LETTER XIX. Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.— Palace of Cintra. —Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.—Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.—Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth. — The Chapel. — Barbaric profusion of Gold.— Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he received a supernatural warning. — Rooms in preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.— Return to Ramalhao. 110 —— CONTENTS. IX LETTER XX. Grand gala at Court. — Festival in honour of the birthday of Guildermeester.—Mad freaks of a Frenchman.—Unwel- come lights of Truth. —Invective against the English. 117 LETTER XXL The Queen of Portugal's Chapel—The Orchestra.—Re- hearsal of a Council. —Proposal to visit Mafra. 123 LETTER XXIL Road to Mafra.—Distant view of the Convent. — Its vast fronts. — General magnificence of the Edifice. — The Church.—The High Altar.— Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine. — The collateral Chapels. —The Sacristy. — — The Abbot of the Convent. —The Library.—View from the Convent-roof. — Chime of Bells.—House of the Capitan Mor. —Dinner. — Vespers. —Awful sound of the Organs. The Palace.—Return to the Convent.—Inquisitive crowd. —The Garden. — Matins. —A Procession. —The Hall de Profundis. — Solemn Repast. — Supper at the Capitan Mor's. ... ... 127 LETTER XXHL High mass. —Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima Leave Mafra An accident—Return to Cintra. —My sa- loon.— Beautiful view from it. 143 LETTER XXIV. A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration. Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses. — Cheerful funeral.—Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Vei'de. 147 —— X CONTENTS. LETTER XXV. Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.—Visit to Mrs. Guildermeester. — Toads active, and toads passive—The old Consul and his tray of jewels. 137 LETTER XXVL Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite. Duke d'Alafoens.—Excursion to a rustic Fair.—Revels of the Peasantry.—Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163 LETTER XXVII. Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra. Singular invitation. — Dinner with the Archbishop Con- fessor. — Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraor- dinary personage. .... 169 LETTER XXVIIL Explore the Cintra Mountains.—Convent of Nossa Sen- hora da Penha.—Moorish Ruins. —The Cork Convent. The Rock of Lisbon. —Maiune Scenery. — Susceptible ima- gination of the Ancients exemplified. 179 LETTER XXIX. Excursion to Penha Verde.—Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin's landscapes.—The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro. — The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces. Influx of visiters. — A celebrated Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms. — The Beast in the Apocalypse. CEcolampadius. — Bevy of Palace damsels. — Fete at the Marialva Villa. —The Queen and the Royal Family ——A CONTENTS. XI A favourite dwarf Negress. — Dignified manner of the Queen. — Profound respect inspired by her presence. — Rigorous etiquette. — Grand display of Fireworks. — The young Countess of Lumieres.— Affecting resemblance. 189 LETTER XXX. Cathedral of Lisbon.—Trace of St. Anthony's fingers. —The Holy Crows Party formed to visit them. —A Por- tuguese poet. — Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows. — Singular tradition connected with them. — Illu- minations in honour of the Infanta's accouchement. — Public harangues. — Policarpio's singing, and anecdotes 0? \h.G haute noblesse. 201 LETTER XXXI. Rambles in the Valtey of Collares.— Elysian scenery. Song of a young female peasant.—Rustic hospitality. —Inter- view with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais. —Conversation with His Royal Highness.—Return to Ramalhao. 212 LETTER XXXII. Convent of Boa Morte.—Emaciated priests. —Austerity of the Order.— Contrite personages.—A nouveau riche.—His house. —Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem. Train of attendants at dinner.—Portuguese gluttony. — Black dose of legendary superstition.—Terrible denunciations.— dreary evening. .... 229 LETTER XXXIII. Rehearsal of Seguidillas. — Evening scene.— Crowds of beggars.—Royal charity misplaced.—Mendicant flattery. Frightful countenances.—Performance at the Salitri theatre. A Xll CONTENTS. — Countess of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses. — A strange ballet.—Return to the Palace.—Supper at the Ca- mareira Mor's.— Filial affection. —Last interview with the Archbishop. — Fatal tide of events— Heart-felt regret on leaving Portugal. .... 235 LETTER XXXIV. Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.—Awful music by Perez and Jomelli.— Marialva's affecting address. —My sorrow and anxiety. 253 SPAIN. LETTER L Embark on the Tagus.—Aldea Gallega.—A poetical post- master. —The church. —Leave Aldea Gallega.—Scenery on the road.—Palace built by John the Fifth. —Ruins at Mon- temor.—Reach Arroyolos, . 259 LETTER IL A wild tract of forest-land.—Arrival at Estremoz. —A fair. —An outrageous sermon.—Boundless wastes of gum-cistus. —Elvas.—Our reception there.—My visiters. 268 LETTER IIL Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.— muleteer's enthusiasm.—Badajoz.—The cathedral.—Journey resumed. — A vast plain. —Village of Lubaon. —Withered hags. — Names and characters of our mules. — Posada at Merida. 275 — CONTENTS. XUl LETTER IV. Arrival at Miaxada.—Monotonous singing.—Dismal coun- try.—Truxillo.—A rainy morning.—Resume our journey. Immense wood of cork-trees.—Almaraz.—Reception
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